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£,ETTERS  FRo.      ^UROPE, 


CeiSIPRISIXG 


THE  JOURNAI^  OF  A  TOUR 


XHROUeil 


IRELAND,     ENGLAND,     SCOTLAND,     FRANCE,    ITALY,    AND 
SWITZERLAND, 

IN  THE  YEARS  1825,  '26,  AND  27. 


BY  N.  H.  CARTER. 

IN  TWO  VOLUMES. 
VOL.  IL 


NEW-YORK: 

PUBLISHED  BY  G.  &  C.  CARVILL,  108  BROADWAY 

1827. 


SOUTHERN  DISTRICT  OF  NEW-YORK,  s«. 

Be  it  iiE.MEMBERED,  that  on  the  11th  day  of  October,  A.  D.  1827,  in  the  fifty- 
second  year  of  the  Independence  of  the  United  States  of  America,  Nathaniel  H. 
Carter,  of  the  said  district,  hath  deposited  in  this  office  the  title  of  a  book,  the 
right  whereof  he  claims  as  author  in  the  words  following,  to  wit : 

"  Letters  from  Europe,  comprising  the  Journal  of  a  Tour  through  Ireland, 
England,  Scotland,  France,  Italy,  and  Switzerland,  in  the  years  1825,  '26,  and  '27. 
By  N.  H.  Carter." 

In  conformity  to  the  Act  of  Congress  of  the  United  States,  entitled,  "  An  Act  for 
the  encouragement  of  learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  maps,  charts,  and  books, 
to  the  authors  and  proprietors  of  such  copies,  during  the  time  therein  mentioned;" 
and  also,  to  an  Act,  entitled,  "  An  Act,  supplementary  to  an  Act,  entitled  an  Act 
for  the  encouragement  of  learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  maps,  charts,  and 
books,  to  the  authors  and  proprietors  of  such  copies,  during  the  times  therein 
mentioned,  and  extending  the  benefits  thereof  to  the  arts  of  designing,  engraving, 
and  etchins:  historical  and  other  prints." 

FRED.  I.  BETTS, 
Clerk  nf  the  Southern  District  of  J\''cw-York. 


3^0 

Sleight  &,  George,  Printers,  Jamaica,  L.  1. 


CONTENTS  OF  VOIATjflK  II, 


rage. 
LETTER  XLV.— Route  to   Toulon— Sketch  of  the  Town  and  Harbour 
— Navy  Yard — Arsenal — Botanic  Garden 9 

LETTER,  XLV  I. — Route  to  Nice — Le  Luc — Draguignan — Frcjus — Can- 
nes—  Antibes — Arrival  at  Nice — Sketch  of  the  Town.  .  .  .  .20 

LETTER  XLVIL— Route  from  Nice  to  Genoa— Monaco— Mentone— 
\  cntiuii^lia — San  Remo — Albenga — Finale — Savone — Arrival  at  Genoa.  31 

LETTER  XLVIIL— Sketch  of  Genoa— Principal  Streets— Aspect  of  the 
Town — Harbour — Moles  and  Defences — Royal  Navy — Arrival  of  the  King 
— Palaces — Paintings.  44 

LETTEPi  XLIX. — Genoa  continued — University — Hospitals — Churches 
— Cathedral — St.  Mathew's — St.  Stephen's — St.  Maria — Annunziata — Cere- 
monies of  Holy  Week — King's  Birth-Day — Public  Amusements — Manufac- 
tures— Albaro — Birlh-Place  of  Columbus.  57 

LETTER  L. — Route  from  Genoa  to  Pisa — Italian  Coaches — Chiavari — 
Scstri — Mountain  Scenery — Borghetto — Gulf  of  Spezia — Sarzana — Massa — 
Pietra  Santa — Lucca — Ride  to  Pisa 69 

LETTER  LI.— Sketch  of  Pisa— Banks  of  the  Arno— Bridges— Leaning 
Tower — Ancient  Port — Cathedral — Baptistry — Campo  Santo — Churches — 
Santa  Maria  Delia  Spina — Botanic  Garden — University — Theatre — Excur- 
sion to  Leghorn — Sketch  of  the  Town  and  Harbour.  .         .         .         .     .'J  I 

LETTER  LII.— Vale  of  the  Arno— Arrival  at  Florence— Sketch  of  the 
City — External  Appearance — Bridges — Cathedral — Baptistry — Campanile.       94 

LETTEP..  LIII.— Florence  continued— Churches— Sasita  Croce— St.  Lo- 
renzo— Tombs  of  the  Medici — Laurentian  Library — Santa  Maria  Novella — 
Annunziata — Museum — Botanic  Garden — Pitli  Palace — Boboli  Garden — 
Cascine. lOG 

IvETTER  LIV. — Florence  continued — Gallery — Sketch  of  Fiesole — Ex- 
cursion to  \'allombrosa,  .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .  T20 

LETTER  LV'. — Departure  for  Rome — Iiicisa — Arezzo — Birth-Place  of 
Petrarch — Vale  of  Chiana — Lake  Thrasymenus — Scene  of  the  Battle  between 
Flaminiusand  Hannibal— Perugia — First  View  of  the  Tiber— Vale  and  Foun- 
tain of  the  Clitumnus — Spoleto — Terni. 133 


i 


o  :^  Q  R 


CONTENTS. 

LETTEIi  L  VI.— Route  to  Rome— Vale  of  the  Nar— Passage  through  the 
Mountains — Narni — Otricoli — Civita  Castellana — Mount  Soracte — Baccano 
— Campagna  di  Roma — Milvian  Bridge — Porta  del  Popolo — Arrival  at 
Rome 147 

LETTER  LVII.— Sketch  of  Rome— View  from  the  Capitoline  Hill- Out- 
lines of  the  City  and  Environs — Aspect  of  the  Seven  Hills — Ruins  of  the  Fo- 
rum— Triumphal  Arches — Ancient  Temples — Coliseum 157 

LETTER,  L VIII.— Rome  continued— Forum  of  Trajan— Pantheon- 
Tomb  of  Raphael — Campus  Mavtius — Mausoleum  of  Augustus — Banks  of 
the  Tiber — Bridges — Castle  of  St.  Angelo — Island  of  iEsculapius — Cloaca 
Maxima — Temple  of  Vesta — Port  at  Ripa  Grande.  .         .        .         -169 

LETTER  LIX.— Rome  continued— Capitoline  Hill— Tarpeian  Rock — 
Mamertine  Prison — Temple  of  Jupiter  Feretrius — Church  of  Aracoeli — Sta- 
tue of  Aurelius — Senator's  House — Museum,         ../....  177 

LETTEPw  LX. — Rome  continued — Ride  round  the  Walls — Tomb  of  the 
Scipios — Baths  of  Caracalla — Tomb  of  Cecilia  Metella — Circus  of  Caracalla 
— Catacombs — Fountain  of  Egeria — Baths  of  Titus — Gardens  of  Sallust — 
Excursion  to  Tivoli — Villa  of  Adrian. 187 

LETTER  LXI. — Departure  for  Naples — Alban  Mount — Aricia — Genzano 
— Velletri — Pontine  Marshes — Terracina — Entrance  of  the  Neapolitan  Domi- 
nions— Fondi — Itri — Mausoleum  of  Cicero — Mola  di  Gaeta.  .         .        .  199 

LETTER  LXII.— Pioute  from  Gaeta  to  Naples— Minturnse-River  Li- 
ris — Capua — Aversa — Arrival  at  Naples — Aspect  of  the  City — Principal 
Streets — Sketch  of  the  Bay,  Islands,  Shores,  Harbour,  and  other  outlines — 
Royal  Garden — Tombs  of  Virgil  and  Sannazaro. 213 

LETTER  LXIIL— Naples  continued— Churches— Cathedral— Miracle  of 
St.  Januarius — Religious  Festivals — St.  Sincere — Museum — King's  Palace.      225 

LETTER  LXIV.— Naples  continued— Capo  di  Monte— Albergo.de'  Fo- 
veri — Chinese  College — ^Catacombs — Campo  Santo — Theatres — Excursion 
to  Capri 237 

LETTEPi.  LXV. — Excursion  to  Baiae — Pausilypo — Lake  Agnano — Grotto 
del  Cane — Gulf  of  Baiae — Pozzuoli — Ancient  Port — Baths  of  Nero — Lucrine 
Lake — Lake  of  Avernus — Grotto  of  the  Sibyl — Cumae — Acheron — Ruins  of 
Baiae — Elysian  Fields — Cape  Miseno — Villa  of  Cicero — Solfatara.         .         .  249 

LETTEPi  LXVI. — Excursion  to  the  Top  of  Vesuvius — Description  of  the 
Crater — Ilerculaneum. 262 

LETTER  LXVII.— Excursion  to  Pompeii— Description  of  the  Ruins.  270 

LETTER  LXVIII. — Excursion  to  Paestum — Vale  of  the  Sarno — Nocera — 
La  Cava — Bay  and  Town  of  Salerno — Eboli — Sketch  of  the  Ruins  of  Pa;s- 
tum 279 

LETTER  LXIX. — Departure  from  Naples — Visit  to  Caserta — Palace — 
Garden — Aqueduct — Return  to  Mont  Albano 289 


CONTENTS. 

Page. 

LETTER  LXX.— Sketch  of  Monte  Albano— Shores  of  the  Alban  Lake- 
Excursion  to  Lake  Nemi — Pompey's  Prison — Museum  of  Antiquities — Grot- 
to-Ferrata — Frascati — Ruins  of  Tusculum — Modera  Palaces — Return  to 
Rome 297 

LETTER  LXXL — Sketch  of  Rome  resumed — Description  of  St.  Peter's 
Church 306 

LETTER  LXXII. — Rome  continued — Vatican — Sala  Regia — Sistine 
Chapel — Last  Judgment  of  Michael  Angelo — Paoline  Chapel — Galleries  and 
Chambers  of  Raphael — Collection  of  Pictures 318 

LETTER  LXXIII. — Rome  continued — Vatican  Museum — Library — Gar- 
den—  Skctcli  of  the  present  Pope. 327 

LETTER  LXXIV.— Rome  continued— Pope's  Cathedral— Public  Festi- 
val— Baptistery — Scala  Santa — Church  of  Santa  Maria  Maggiore — St.  Mary 
of  the  Angels — Monte  Tcstaccio — Tomb  of  Caius  Ceslius — Protestant  Ceme- 
tery— Excursion  to  St.  Paul's  of  the  Three  Fountains.  ....  338 

LETTER  LXX\'. — Rome  continued — Tomb  of  Tasso — Corsini  Palace — 
Mount  Janiculum — Fountain  of  Paul  V. — Villa  Doria  Pamfih — Doria  Palace 
— Scene  upon  the  Corso — Palazzo  Rospigliosi — Guide's  Aurora — Gallery.        347 

LETTER  LXXVI.— Rome  continued— Nero's  Tower— Villa  Albani— 
Studio  of  Trentanove — Borghese  Palace — Excursion  to  Mons  Sacer — Canoni- 
zation of  a  new  Saint — Sunday  in  Rome — Spada  and  Farn'ese  Palaces — Villa 
Borghese — Finale  of  the  Pope's  Saint.  354 

LETTER  LXXVII.— Rome  continued— Barberini  Palace— Studio  of  Ca- 
nova — Thorwaldsen — Colonna  Palace — Michael  Angelo's  Statue  of  Moses — 
Studio  of  Camuccini — Sciarra  Palace — Anniversary  of  St.  John — Palazzo  Far- 
nesina — Jews  at  Rome — Villa  Mattel — Church  of  St.  Stephen — Studio  of  Lan- 
di  and  Cavaliere. 364 

LETTER  LXXVIII.— Rome  concluded— Festival  of  St.  Peter— illumination 
of  his  Church — Fireworksof  St.  Angelo — Monte  Cavallo — Temple  of  the  Sun 
— Massimi  Palace — A  Summer  Day  in  Rome — Mal'aria — Ceremony  of  takin* 
the  Veil — Theatres — Academy  of  St.  Luke — Skull  of  Raphael — Celebration 
of  the  Fourth  of  July — American  Consul 373 

LETTER  LXXIX.— Departure  from  Rome— Falls  of  the  Velino— Re- 
turn to  Florence — Climate — Manners  of  the  People — Public  Amusements — 
Character  of  the  Government 333 

LETTER  LXXX. —  Florence  continued — Productive  Industry  of  Tuscany 
— Manufacture  of  Silks — Straw  Hats — Public  Institutions — Education — As- 
cendency of  the  Priesthood — P«,eligious  Processions — A  Living  Saint — Thea- 
tres— Opera — The  Goldoni — Academy  of  Fine  Arts — Pieading-Room — Italian 
Newspapers.       .  390 

LETTER  LXXXI.— Excursion  to  the  Batlis  of  Lucca— Pistoia—Pescia 
— Vale  of  the  Serchio— Arrival  at  the  Baths — Scorpions — Sketch  of  Scenery 
— Hot  Springs — Buonvisi — Count  Demidoff— Theatre — Balls — Casino— Cor- 
so— Ponte  Serraglio 400 


CONTENTS. 

Page, 
LETTER  LXXXII. — Departure  from  Florence — Trespiano — Passage  of 
the  Apennines — Scenery — Pietra  Mala — Arrival  at  Bologna — Sketch  of  the 
City — Fountain  of  John  di  Bologna — Church  of  St.  Petronius — Palazzo  Pub- 
blico — Cathedral — Gallery — Shrine  of  St.  Domiuick — ]Moi)te  Nola — Univer- 
sity— Campo  Santo — Chiesa  del  Servi — Theatre. 410 

LETTER  LXXXIIL— Departure  from  Bologna— Ride  to  Ferraia— En- 
Tirons — Sketch  of  the  City — Library — Tomb  of  Ariosto — Manuscripts — Hos- 
pital of  St.  Anna — Prison  of  Tasso — Ducal  Palace — House  of  Ariosto — Cha- 
pel of  Benedictines — Certosa — Santa  Maria  in  Vado — Cathedral — Departure 
from  Ferrara — Passage  of  the  Po — Scenery  of  its  Banks — Austrian  Custom-, 
Houses — Rovigo — The  Adige — Monselice — Arrival  at  Padua.      .        .         .  422 

LETTER  LXXXIV.— Excursion  to  Arqua— Tomb  and  last  Residence  of 
Petrarch — Sketch  of  Padua — Church  of  St.  Anthony- — Santa  Justizia — Hospi- 
tal for  Invalids — Observatory — Birth-place  and  Tomb  of  Livy — University — 
Tomb  of  Antenor — Ride  down  the  Brenta — Arrival  at  Venice — First  view  of 
the  City 431 

LETTER  LXXXV.— Venice  continued — Rialto— Santa  Teresa— Square 
of  St.  Mark's — Church — Bronze  Horses — Campanile — View  of  the  City  and 
Islands — Ducal  Palace — Ancient  Halls — Bridge  of  Sighs — Dungeons — Mint — 
Public  Garden — Greeks  at  Venice 442 

LETTER  LXXXVI.— Venice  concluded— Old  Arsenal— Navy  Yard— 
Bucentaur — Excursion  to  the  Lido — Armenian  School — Churches — Tomb  of 
Titian — Palaces  and  Pictures — Academy  of  Fine  Arts — Mausoleum  of  Canova 
— Amusements — Theatre.  451 

LETTER  LXXXVII.— Return  to  Padua— Ride  to  Vicenza— Sketch  of  the 
Town — Arrival  at  Verona — Opera — Excursion  to  Lago  di  Garda — Peschiera 
— The  Mincio — View  of  the  Lake — Sermione — Religious  Festival — Descrip- 
tion of  the  Peninsula — Catullus — Banditti — Sketch  of  Verona — Amphitheatre 
— Public  Palace — Philharmonic  Academy — Holy  Alliance — Arch  of  Vilruvi- 
us — Sarcophagus  of  Juliet — Tombs  of  the  Scaligers — Churches — Great  Men.  461 

LETTER  LXXXVIII.— Ride  to  Mantua— Dangers  of  the  Road— Austrian 
Code — Villafranca — Banks  of  the  Mincio — First  view  of  Mantua — Excursion 
to  Andes — Reminiscences  of  Virgil — Corso  of  the  City — Amusements — Piazza 
Virgiliana — Tomb  and  last  Residence  of  Julio  Romano — Ducal  Palace — 
Torre  Delia  Gabbia — Route  to  Cremona — Cathedral — Campanile — Sketch 
of  the  City.  470 

LETTER  LXXXIX.— Route  to  Lodi— Banks  of  the  Adda— Descriptioa 
of  the  Bridge — Arrival  at  Milan — Aspect  of  the  City — Sketch  of  the  Cathe- 
dral— Architecture — View  from  the  Cupola — Interior — Tradition  of  St.  Am- 
brose— Tomb  of  San  Carlo  Borromeo — Celebration  of  the  Jubilee — Palace 
of  the  Viceroy — Reminiscences  of  Napoleon.  ......  480 

LETTEPc  XC— Milan  continued— Forum  of  Napoleon— Castle— Cam- 
pus Martins — Amphitheatre — Arch  of  the  Simplon — Gate  of  Marengo — Cor- 
so— Public  Garden — Military  Academy — Hospitals — Ambrosian  Library — 
Gallery — Fresco  of  the  Last  Supper — Lita  Palace — The  Erera — Academy  of 
Fine  Arts 491 


CONTENTS. 

Page. 
I>ETTER  XCL— Milan  concluded— Churches— Chapel  of  the   Dead— 

Festival  of  St.  Thomas — Jesuits — Opera — Minor  Theatres — Environs — Villa 

of  Napoleon — Excursion  to  Mouza — Imperial  Gardens — Palace — Cathedral 

— Iron  Crown  of  Lombardy. 500 

LETTER  XCIIi — Departure  from  Milan — Arrival  at  Como — First  view 
of  the  Lake — Sketch  of  the  Scenery — Excursion  to  the  Villa  d'Este — The 
late  Queen  of  England — Description  of  Pliniana — Route  to  Lake  Maggiore — 
A'erese — Banks  of  the  Ticin — Arona — Colossus  of  San  Carlo — Sketch  of  Mag- 
gioi-e — Borromean  Isles — Excursion  to  Isola  Bella — Ride  to  Domo  d'Ossola.      507 

LETTER  XCIII. — Departure  from  Domo  d'Ossola — Passage  of  the  Sim- 
plon — Description  of  the  Road — Bridge  of  Crcvola — Alpine  Scenery — Old 
Path — Monks — Refuges — Hamlets — Avalanches — Village  of  Simplon — View 
from  the  Summit  of  the  Mountain — Glaciers  of  Switzerland — Torrents  of  the 
Ganter  and  Saltine — Arrival  at  Brigue. 519 

LETTER  XCIV.— Departure  from  Brigue— Vale  of  the  Rhone— Sketch 
of  its  Scenery — Alps  and  Glaciers — Fertility — Population — Buildings — V'il- 
lages  and  Hamlets — Viege — Tourtemagne — Cascade — Sion — Martigny — St. 
Maurice — First  view  of  the  Lake  of  Geneva — St.  Gingoux — Rocks  of  Meil- 
lerie — Southern  Shore  of  the  Lake — Evian — Thonon — Distant  view  of  Mont 
Blanc — Arrival  at  Geneva.  527 

LETTER  XCV.— Excursion  to  Ferney— Egress  of  the  Rhone— Environs 
of  Geneva — Village  of  Voltaire — Description  of  his  Chateau — Shore  of  the 
Lake — Copet — Tombs  of  Necker  and  Madame  de  Stael — Nyon — Excursion 
to  Vevay — Sketch  of  the  Town — Clarens — Chillon — Ride  to  Lausanne — 
Reminiscences  of  Gibbon — Description  of  the  Town.    .....  637 

LETTER  XCVI.— Return  to  Geneva—Sketch  of  the  City— View  from 
the  Water — Aspect  of  the  Streets  and  Buildings — Hotel  de  Ville — Legislative 
Halls — Political  State  of  Switzerland — Cathedral — Reminiscences  of  Calvin 
— Museum — Botanic  Garden — Defences  of  the  City — College — Library — 
Hospital — Athcujcum — Panorama  of  Switzerland — Birth-place  of  Rousseau 
— Excursion  to  the  Junction  of  the  Rhone  and  Arve — Departure  from  Gene- 
va— Jura  Alps — Last  view  from  their  Summits 54!{ 

CO.NXLUSIOX 557 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 


LETTER  XLV. 

noUTE    TO    TOVLON — SKETCH     OP    THE    TOWN    AXD     HARBOUK NAVY- 
YARD — ARSENAL. 

March,  1826. 

At  6  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  13th,  we  took  seats  in  the  Dili- 
gence at  Marseilles  for  Toulon,  a  distance  of  about  forty  miles,  in  a 
south-easterly  direction.  Our  own  party  consisted  of  five  Americans, 
who  had  the  same  objects  in  view  as  ourselves.  Among  the  other 
passengers  was  a  German  Countess,  whom  we  had  met  in  a  circle  of 
agreeable  ladies  and  gentlemen  at  the  table  d'hote  of  the  Hotel  Beau- 
veau.  She  was  going  to  Toulon,  there  to  embark  on  board  of  a  French 
ship  of  war,  which  was  to  land  her  at  Civita  Vecchia,  on  her  way  to 
Rome — an  odd  expedition  for  a  lady  to  undertake  alone.  Her  con- 
versation respecting  the  country,  whither  we  were  hastening  and  in 
which  she  had  long  resided,  was  highly  instructive  ;  while  her  hospi- 
tality led  her  to  impart  a  share  of  the  provisions  she  had  taken  for  her 
journey,  consisting  among  other  things  of  a  kind  of  portable  choco- 
late, made  into  little  wafers  and  eaten  with  bread. 

The  tract  of  country  between  Marseilles  and  Toulon  is  extremely 
picturesque.  For  the  whole  distance  an  excellent  road  winds  among 
calcareous  hills,  the  white,  craggy  tops  of  which  appear  at  a  distance 
as  if  snow-clad.  Their  steep  sides  arc  covered  with  vineyards  and 
olives,  hanging  upon  terraces,  and  rising  stage  above  stage  ;  while  be- 
tween the  ranges  on  either  hand,  fertile  and  sunny  vales  of  moderate 
breadth,  and  cultivated  witli  the  utmost  neatness,  open  successively  to 
relieve  the  eye  of  the  traveller.  Villages,  hamlets,  and  chateaux, 
sometimes  occupying  the  bosom  of  the  valleys  and  at  others  seated  far 
np  the  acclivities  of  the  mountains,  are  scattered  along  the  way  and  con- 

voL.  n.  2 


10  LETTERS  FllOM  EUROPE. 

tribute  much  to  the  romantic  character  of  the  scenery.  Passing  the  old 
town  of  Aubagne,  which  is  the  birth-place  of  the  celebrated  Abbe  Bar- 
thelcmy,  author  of  the  Travels  of  Anacharsis  the  Younger,  we  reached 
Cujes  in  season  for  a  bad  breakfast,  and  remained  long  enough  to  look 
at  the  few  curiosities  it  contains.  The  hotels  on  this  road  are  small,  dirty, 
and  execrable  ;  and  in  some  of  the  villages  containing  several  thousands 
of  inhabitants,  taverns  of  no  description  are  to  be  found. 

Beyond  the  town  of  Beausset,  and  about  midway  between  Marseilles 
and  Toulon,  is  a  celebrated  pass  in  the  mountains,  called  Ollioules, 
which  in  wild  and  savage  grandeur  will  sustain  a  comparison  with  any 
of  those  found  about  the  Irish,  English,  and  Scottish  lakes,  described 
in  some  of  my  former  letters.  The  broken  and  rude  masses  of  rock, 
shooting  up  in  fantastic  crags,  to  the  height  of  800  or  1000  feet,  and 
impending  over  the  path,  here  approach  so  near  to  one  another,  as  to 
leave  only  room  for  the  channel  of  a  headlong  torrent,  which  fills  the 
defile  with  its  murmurs.  For  a  mile  or  two,  the  road  is  a  continued 
terrace  hanging  over  the  stream,  and  winding  through  a  region  of  per- 
fect desolation,  once  filled  with  banditti.  All  at  once,  the  traveller 
emerges  from  these  dreary  solitudes,  and  descends  into  a  beautiful 
glen,  watered  by  clear  brooks  and  fountains,  smiling  with  tillage,  and 
blooming  with  flowers.  The  transition  is  sudden,  and  the  contrast 
peculiarly  striking.  Here  I  saw  for  the  first  time  in  my  life  groves  of 
oranges,  growing  naturally  in  the  open  air,  and  laden  with  golden  fruit. 
The  scenery  was  brightened  by  serene  skies,  and  our  senses  were  re- 
galed with  all  the  charms  of  spring. 

From  the  pass  of  Olhoules,  we  were  whirled  onward  by  a  rapid  de- 
scent, over  a  smooth  road,  through  the  beautiful  environs  of  Toulon, 
scarcely  inferior  to  those  of  Marseilles,  and  presenting  another  charm- 
ing view  of  the  blue  waters  of  the  Mediterranean.  The  hills  recede 
on  either  hand,  stretching  along  the  coast,  and  embosoming  between 
their  bases  and  the  sea  a  broad,  fertile  plain,  richly  embelhshed  by  na- 
ture and  art.  Crossing  two  draw-bridges  over  the  double  moat  by 
which  the  town  is  surrounded,  and  passing  under  the  massive  arched 
portals,  which  form  the  barrier,  we  rode  through  several  of  the  prin- 
cipal streets,  to  the  Hotel  of  the  Golden  Cross,  where  excellent  ac- 
commodations were  obtained.  Here  for  the  first  time  since  landing 
at  Calais,  we  found  the  windows  of  our  rooms  open,  and  comfortable 
without  a  fire.  The  climate,  so  far  as  our  experience  goes,  is  delight- 
ful, the  air  being  soft  and  delicious,  subject  to  few  of  the  sudden 
changes  which  are  felt  at  Marseilles.  From  the  representations  of 
others,  as  well  as  from  mv  own  observations,  I  have  no  doubt,  that 


LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE.  11 

this  is  by  far  the  most  eligible  winter  residence  for  invalids,  in  the 
South  of  France.* 

On  tiie  morning  after  our  arrival,  we  visited  the  Cathedral,  and  as- 
cended to  the  top  of  its  tower,  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  a  bird's- 
eye  view  of  Toulon  and  its  environs,  which  from  this  central  and  ele- 
vated point  are  seen  to  the  best  advantage.  The  natural  situation  of 
the  town  is  admirably  fitted  for  a  great  military  and  naval  depot  ;  and 
men  less  skilled  in  war  than  Louis  XIV.  or  Napoleon  might  have  se- 
lected it  as  the  bulwark  of  the  southern  frontier  of  France.  It  is  sur- 
rounded towards  the  north  by  an  amphitheatre  of  naked,  impassable 
mountains,  between  two  or  three  thousand  feet  in  height,  extending 
to  the  sea-shore  on  either  side,  and  leaving  only  two  narrow  defiles, 
one  leading  from  Marseilles,  and  the  other  from  Nice,  both  easy  of  de- 
fence. In  the  centre  of  this  semicircular  basin,  at  the  distance  of  per- 
haps a  mile  from  the  bases  of  the  hills,  and  about  as  far  from  the  en- 
trance of  the  harbour,  is  the  port,  winding  up  between  two  promonto- 
ries, completely  land-locked,  and  alike  secure  from  the  winds  and 
waves.  To  these  natural  advantages  the  most  expensive  works  of  art 
have  been  added,  till  the  town  seems  inaccessible  and  impregnable 
both  by  land  and  sea.  From  the  age  of  Louis  XII.  to  the  present 
time,  millions  have  been  appropriated,  in  constructing  moles,  fortress- 
es, batteries,  citadels,  arsenals,  walls,  and  military  defences  of  all  de- 
scriptions, which  surround  the  harbour,  and  every  where  meet  the  eye. 
These  fortifications  are  filled  with  troops,  and  as  rigidly  guarded  as  in 
time  of  war.  The  streets,  quays,  and  public  squares,  swarm  with  mi- 
litary and  naval  oflicers,  cadets,  marines,  soldiers,  and  sailors,  who  ap- 


*  A  distinguished  officer  of  the  United  States  Navy  informed  me,  that  during 
a  residence  of  a  month  or  two  at  Toulon  ia  the  coldest  part  of  the  winter  of  1826, 
when  the  Rhone  was  choked  with  ice,  and  while  even  the  plains  of  Languodoc 
were  swept  by  snow-storms,  he  here  found  the  weather  so  mild  as  to  render  a  fire 
unnecessary  to  comfort.  The  situation  of  the  town,  encircled  by  mountains  which 
intercept  the  winds  from  the  north,  and  open  to  the  sun  as  well  as  to  temperate 
breezes  from  the  south,  furnishes  a  ready  explanation  of  the  remarkable  difference 
of  climate,  in  the  distance  of  only  a  few  miles.  As  Moiitpellier  is  the  usual  place, 
to  which  invalids  from  the  United  States  as  well  as  from  Great-Britain  have  been 
recommended  for  the  benefit  of  their  health,  I  beg  leave  to  add,  in  confirmation  of 
my  own  opinion  expressed  in  a  former  letter,  the  remark  of  Sir  James  Edward 
Smith,  a  physician  of  great  eminence,  whose  Tour  on  the  Continent  I  have  perused 
with  a  high  degree  of  satisfaction,  since  my  return  to  the  United  States:  "I  do 
not,"  says  he  in  his  observations  on  Montpellier,  "  much  approve  of  this  place  for 
invalids.  Very  cold  and  boisterous  winds  are  not  unfrequent ;  and  the  air  of  tlie 
neighbourhood  is  often  infected  by  the  marshes  lying  between  the  town  and  (he 
«ea.'' 


1-2  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

pear  to  compose  a  large  proportion  of  the  thirty  thousand  inhabitants. 
Swords  and  bayonets  are  seen  glistening  in  all  directions  ;  the  harbour 
is  filled  with  ships  of  war  ;  piles  of  cannon  and  balls  cover  the  wharves  ; 
parades  of  troops,  accompanied  by  bands  of  martial  music,  are  wit- 
nessed at  almost  every  hour  of  the  day  ;  and  in  a  word,  Toulon  exhi- 
bits all  the  pomp  and  bustle  of  a  fortified  camp. 

The  old  man  who  ascended  the  tower  of  the  Cathedral  with  us,  as 
a  guide,  was  intelligent  and  well  acquainted  with  the  history  as  well  as 
the  localities  of  the  place.  He  was  here  during  the  siege  of  1793, 
when  the  military  talents  of  Napoleon  were  first  developed.  The 
English  and  Spaniards  took  possession  of  the  town,  and  held  it  from 
August  till  December  of  that  year,  garrisoning  it  with  strong  armies 
and  naval  forces,  which  they  deemed  impregnable.  But  the  ge- 
nius and  daring  spirit  of  the  young  Corsican,  aided  by  the  repub- 
lican legions  of  France,  achieved  what  to  others  would  seem  wholly 
impracticable.  Batteries  were  planted  in  the  fastnesses  of  the  moun- 
tains, above  the  reach  of  annoyance  from  the  harbour,  and  a  cannon- 
ade opened  upon  the  town,  which  compelled  the  aUied  invaders  to  re- 
treat. A  great  battle  was  fought  upon  the  shore,  in  which  18,000  of 
the  enemy  were  left  upon  the  field.* 

Since  the  time  of  this  memorable  siege,  the  ramparts  of  the  city 
have  been  raised  and  strengthened,  so  as  to  shield  the  buildings  from 
batteries  planted  without  the  walls.  The  bulwarks,  gates  and  bridges 
are  massive  and  strong  beyond  any  thing  of  the  kind  I  have  ever  seen  ; 
and  the  inhabitants  of  Toulon  might  apparently  bid  defiance  to  the 
combined  armies  of  Europe.  From  the  parapet  of  the  double  wall 
to  the  bottom  of  thetnoat,  is  not  less  than  thirty  or  forty  feet,  too  solid 
to  be  battered  down,  and  too  high  to  be  scaled  by  the  most  daring  en- 
terprise.    As  the  amount  of  public  property,  in  ships,  naval  stores 


"^  The  Harbour  of  Toulon  has  been  alternately  the  theatre  of  disastrous  and 
splendid  events.  At  the  evacuation  of  the  British  in  1793,  its  waters  were  illu- 
minated by  the  blaze  of  the  Arsenal  and  of  twenty-four  French  ships  of  the  line, 
set  on  fire  by  Commodore  Hood.  In  1798,  the  ^eat  expedition  under  the  com- 
mand of  Napoleon,  destined  for  the  conquest  of  Egypt,  sailed  from  this  port.  Bar- 
ron Larrey,  who  was  an  eye-witness  of  the  scene,  gives  the  following  animated 
notice  of  the  sailing  of  the  fleet : — "  All  the  vessels  of  the  squadron  and  convoy, 
which  were  in  the  Toulon  Road,  set  sail  on  the  19th  of  May,  to  the  sound  of  mar- 
tial music,  in  the  midst  of  lively  acclamations,  which  expressed  the  general  satis- 
faction on  the  departure  of  the  flag-ship,  Admiral  Brueix,  in  which  were  Bo- 
naparte the  commander-in-chief,  the  principal  members  of  the  commission  of  arts, 
and  the  etats-major  of  the  two  armies,  comprising  the  physicians  and  principal 
smgeons"-— Memoirs  of  Military  Surgery,  Vol.  I.  p.  84. 


LETTEJIS  FROM  EUllOPE.  l;3 

and  munitions  of  war,  here  deposited,  is  incalculable,  the  sums  appro- 
priated to  these  works  of  defence  cannot  be  considered  a  useless  ex- 
penditure. The  government  of  France  would  suffer  more  from  the 
capture  of  Toulon,  than  from  tliat  of  the  metropolis  itself. 

A  fortunate  accident,  emanating  from  I'rench  politeness  and  hospi- 
tality, afforded  us  an  opportunity  of  visiting,  under  the  most  favoura- 
ble circumstances,  the  navy-yard,  armories,  arsenals,  and  other  public 
works  at  this  place,  to  which  it  is  extremely  difficult  for  strangers  to 
gain  admittance,  even  on  letters  of  recommendation,  which  none  of 
our  party  had  taken.  At  the  table  of  the  hotel  at  Marseilles,  we  be- 
came acquainted  with  a  Surgeon  in  the  Royal  Navy,  who  manifested 
as  much  kindness  towards  us,  as  he  did  coolness  towards  a  British  of- 
ficer from  Gibraltar,  with  whom  he  happened  to  come  in  contact  while 
at  dinner.  The  latter  in  the  course  of  conversation  several  times  flatly 
and  rudely  contradicted  the  former  ;  and  national  antipathies  proceed- 
ed to  such  lengths,  that  the  affair  seemed  likely  to  end  in  a  duel. 
Thinking,  perhaps,  discretion  the  better  part  of  valour,  the  English- 
man left  the  table,  and  afterwards  took  his  dinner  in  his  own  room. 
On  the  evening  previous  to  his  departure,  the  Frenchman  invited  us  to 
take  coffee,  and  a  glass  of  liqueur  with  him,  proposing  the  health  of 
General  La  Fayette,  the  friend  of  our  respective  countries.  Such  a 
toast  manifested  not  only  the  liberality  but  the  independence  of  this 
officer  in  the  Royal  Navy,  as  it  might  cost  him  his  commission  should 
it  come  to  the  ears  of  the  government.  In  taking  leave  of  our  circle, 
he  invited  us  to  visit  Toulon,  and  politely  offered  any  facilities  that  his 
official  station  afforded — a  favour  which  was  very  gratefully  accepted. 

Being  notified  of  our  arrival,  this  gentleman  promptly  called  at  the 
hotel  and  conducted  us  to  his  apartments,  where  we  were  requested 
to  amuse  ourselves  with  a  new  and  splendid  work  on  the  ornithology 
of  France,  while  he  dressed  himself  in  his  sword  and  cocked  hat,  as  a 
necessary  preparation  for  entering  the  navy-yard.  His  uniform  as 
Surgeon  was  remarkably  neat,  consisting  of  blue  cloth,  with  trimmings 
of  crimson  velvet  and  gold  lace.  Even  with  his  introduction,  an  horn- 
was  occupied  in  going  through  with  the  forms  required  betbre  we  could 
be  admitted.  Our  names,  residences,  and  other  particulars  were  all 
registered  at  the  Marine  Department,  and  a  written  passport  obtained, 
which  was  presented  at  the  splendid  arched  gate  leading  to  the  naval 
depot,  and  forming  the  barrier  between  it  and  the  rest  of  the  town. 
The  portals  are  lofty,  and  enriched  with  a  profusion  of  ornament,  con- 
sisting of  sculptured  devices  and  inscriptions. 

The  first  objects  which  arrested  our  attention,  on  entering  the 
navy-yard,  were  the  crowds  of  galley-slaves,  yoked  together  like  cat- 


14         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

tie,  and  employed  in  all  kinds  of  servile  offices.  Nearly  all  the 
dri'dgery  and  hard  labour,  such,  as  carrying  burdens,  drawing  carts, 
towing  vessels,  and  tugging  at  the  oar,  is  performed  by  these  misera- 
ble beings,  who  are  condemned  to  the  most  abject  servitude  for  life. 
Their  sun-burnt,  sweaty,  dusty,  and  demoniac  features  ;  their  fantastic 
caps  and  party-coloured  costumes  ;  and  the  continual  clanking  of  their 
heavy  iron  chains,  present  no  faint  idea  of  a  pandemonium.  Although 
exact  justice  may  be  meted  out  to  them,  and  the  wretchedness  of  their 
condition  may  not  be  disproportionate  to  their  crimes,  it  is  a  painful 
image  constantly  obtruding  itself  upon  the  observation  of  the  visitant. 

The  number  here  imprisoned  is  about  two  thousand,  a  large  pro- 
portion of  whom  were  convicted  of  murder,  distinguished  from  the 
rest  by  their  green  caps.  We  saw  a  hundred  of  these  pass  in  procession, 
Avith  severe  but  dejected  countenances,  on  the  way  to  their  stalls,  to 
partake  of  a  coarse  and  scanty  allowance.  Their  chains  are  differ- 
ently worn,  being  in  some  cases  fastened  like  fetters  round  the  ankle, 
and  in  others,  hung  in  festoons  about  the  waist,  loading  down  the  poor 
wretches  with  a  weight  of  iron,  independent  of  their  other  burdens. 
They  all  wear  their  numbers  painted  upon  their  red  flannel  jackets. 
At  night  they  are  kept  under  hatches,  in  large  hulks  of  vessels,  called 
Bagnes,  moored  in  the  harbour.  Some  of  them  are  ingenious  me- 
chanics and  artists,  who  beguile  the  tedium  of  life  in  manufacturing 
baskets,  boxes,  and  other  ornaments,  which  they  are  permitted  to  sell 
for  their  own  benefit.  On  the  whole,  with  the  exception  of  their 
chains,  I  could  not  perceive  that  they  are  worse  used  than  the  inmates 
of  our  own  penitentiaries.  An  officer  and  commissioner  of  the  Ame- 
rican Navy,  who  passed  a  considerable  part  of  the  last  winter  at  Tou- 
lon, for  the  express  purpose  of  making  such  inquiries  as  might  be 
useful  to  our  own  country,  remarked  to  me,  that  he  considered  the  em- 
j)loyment  of  galley-slaves  the  worst  feature  in  the  French  Marine,  as 
the  government  of  them  is  vexatious,  and  thpir  labours  by  no  means 
effective. 

Our  examination  of  the  Navy-yard  commenced  with  a  visit  to  a 
large  and  splendid  hall,  used  as  an  extensive  repository  of  models  in 
naval  architecture.  It  has  been  long  established,  and  contains  a  valu- 
able collection  of  inventions  and  improvements,  on  all  subjects  con- 
nected with  navigation.  The  number  of  articles  is  between  one  and 
two  hundred,  consisting  of  the  most  approved  models  of  vessels  and 
boats  of  all  descriptions  ;  docks ;  machines  used  in  masting  ships, 
and  drawing  them  up  for  repairs.  The  American  officer  above  al- 
luded to  examined  this  temple  of  the  arts  with  minute  attention  ;  and 
if  it  contains  any  thing  worthy  of  imitation,  he  will  doubtless  recom- 


LETTERS  F11031  EUROPE.  1". 

mend  it  to  the  attention  of  our  government.  An  hour  was  passed  in 
glancing  at  a  multiplicity  of  objects,  which  it  would  require  days  to 
examine  in  a  satisfactory  manner.  The  hall  itself  is  not  among  the 
least  curiosities.  It  is  richly  ornamented  with  bas-reliefs  by  Pujet, 
and  with  statues  of  Mars,  Pallas,  Bellona,  and  other  martial  divinities. 

Our  polite  and  intelligent  guide  next  conducted  us  to  the  Rope- 
Walk,  which  is  half  a  mile  in  length,  consisting  of  three  arcades, 
supported  by  massive  stone  pillars.  The  machinery  for  the  manufac- 
ture of  cordage  is  upon  a  large  scale.  That  for  twisting  cables  is 
turned  by  horses.  A  machine  was  observed,  which  was  at  least  new 
to  me.  It  traverses  from  one  end  of  the  rope-walk  to  the  other  nearly 
as  fast  as  the  men  can  travel,  weaving  the  cord  as  it  passes,  and  ap- 
parently saving  much  manual  labour. 

Adjacent  to  this  establishment  is  the  Grand  Magasin,  or  warehouse 
for  the  deposit  of  naval  stores  of  every  description.  It  is  a  new  and 
magnificent  edifice,  three  stories  high,  built  of  a  beautiful  species  of 
granite.  Its  front  presents  one  of  the  finest  facades  I  have  seen  in 
the  South  of  France,  both  for  tlic  grandeur  of  its  proportions  and  the 
elegance  of  its  workmanship.  A  superb  stair-case,  fitter  for  a  palace 
than  for  a  storehouse,  winds  to  the  upper  loft.  The  building  is  not 
yet  completed,  but  already  contains  numerous  articles,  for  the  equip- 
ment of  a  fleet,  which  appeared  to  be  of  an  excellent  quality  and  in 
a  good  state  of  preservation.  So  far  as  our  observations  extended, 
the  most  rigid  rules  of  economy  are  enforced,  in  taking  care  of  the 
pubhc  property,  through  every  department  of  this  great  national  esta- 
blishment. Naval  armaments,  which  would  suffer  by  exposure  to  the 
weather,  are  neatly  housed,  and  nothing  is  abandoned  to  neglect  and 
decay. 

The  Armory  is  on  a  scale  proportioned  to  the  other  parts  of  this 
extensive  depot.  Two  large  buildings  are  filled  with  guns,  baA'onets, 
swords,  pikes,  pistols,  and  other  implements  of  war,  fancifully  ar- 
ranged so  as  to  form  difierent  figures,  in  the  same  style  as  was  ob- 
served in  the  Tower  of  London.  Along  the  aisles  formed  by  fluted 
columns  of  spears  and  nmskets,  arc  statues  clad  in  ancient  mail,  bear- 
ing shields  which  are  embossed  with  various  historical  devices.  In  the 
centre  of  the  group  stands  the  bust  of  his  present  majesty,  Charles 
X.  ;  a  tutelary  genius  much  less  fitted  than  some  of  his  predeces- 
sors, to  preside  over  the  works  of  war. 

Our  tour  of  observation  was  continued  through  the  forges  of  the 
smiths,  which  are  inferior  in  extent  and  management  to  those  of  our 
country  at  Washington  ;  and  thence  to  the  ship-yard,  where  several 
large  vessels  are  upon  the  stocks.     The  timber  appeared  to  be  of  a 


16         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

good  quality,  well  wrought,  and  substantially  put  together  ;  but  the 
progress  of  the  work  is  slow  in  comparison  with  the  despatch  of  our 
own  naval  architects,  who  would  build  and  equip  a  fleet,  while  the 
French  were  busy  in  planning  one.  Their  ships,  however,  are  both 
substantial  and  handsome,  surpassed  by  none  except  those  of  the 
United  States.  The  most  ingenious  plans  have  been  devised  for  con- 
structing dry-docks,  in  a  harbour  where  there  are  no  tides.  A  great 
efTort  is  at  present  making  to  strengthen  the  navy  of  France.  Two 
millions  of  francs  are  annually  expended  in  building  new  ships  at 
Toulon  ;  and  corresponding  appropriations  are  authorised  by  the  go- 
vernment for  Brest  and  other  ports  of  the  kingdom.  It  is  the  opi- 
nion of  an  American  gentleman  who  has  paid  particular  attention  to 
the  subject,  and  whose  judgment  in  these  affairs  is  worth  much  more 
than  my  own,  that  the  period  is  not  distant,  when  the  French  naval 
force  will  be  able  to  cope  with  that  of  any  nation  upon  the  globe, 
not  excepting  that  haughty  power  which  now  claims  to  be  mistress  of 
the  seas.  In  defence  of  this  opinion,  which  modern  history  and  the 
genius  of  the  French  people  do  not  appear  fully  to  authorise,  it  was 
urged  that  the  resources  of  France  are  exhaustless ;  that  her  coasts 
bounding  upon  two  oceans,  and  never  obstructed  with  ice,  are  better 
fitted  for  training  navies,  than  any  of  the  more  northern  European 
states  ;  that  Frenchmen  have  at  former  periods  manifested  a  capa- 
bility of  becoming  as  good  sailors  as  soldiers  ;  and  that  the  govern- 
ment is  now  making  as  great  an  effort  to  acquire  an  ascendency  by 
sea,  as  Napoleon  made  to  be  foremost  upon  land.  But  a  greater 
than  Charles  X.  or  the  Duke  d'Angouleme,  or  the  minikin  Due  de 
Bordeaux,  must  arise  before  these  schemes  of  maritime  power  can 
be  realized.  They  may  have  talents  to  build  fleets,  but  to  direct  their 
successful  movements,  requires  more  energy  than  is  possessed  by  any 
of  the  degenerate  race  of  the  Bourbons. 

The  number  of  ships  of  war  now  lying  in  the  harbour  of  Toulon 
cannot  be  less  than  one  hundred.  We  went  on  board  the  largest  of 
them,  the  Royal  Louis,  having  three  decks,  and  carrying  130  guns. 
She  is  a  monstrous,  misshapen  pile  ;  in  her  best  estate  a  clumsy, 
heavy,  unwieldy  mass,  now  dismantled,  laid  up  in  ordinary,  and  ra- 
pidly going  to  decay.  Her  cabins  exhibit  all  the  splendid  decorations 
of  a  French  palace. 

On  our  return  from  this  visit  to  the  Royal  Louis,  we  traversed  the 
mole  which  divides  the  old  from  the  new  harbour.  The  latter  was 
constructed  in  the  reign  of  Louis  XIV.  and  is  a  gigantic  work.  It  is 
connected  with  the  former  by  two  canals  or  channels,  of  sufficient 
width  and  depth  for  the  passage  of  ships  of  the  largest  class,  which 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         17 

here  ride  in  an  artificial  basin  scooped  out  of  the  shore,  and  sur- 
rounded on  all  sides  by  substantial  quays.  Another  port  of  similar 
construction,  and  equal  in  extent,  is  now  in  contemplation. 

The  fatiguing  but  iiighly  gratifying  and  instructive  rounds  of  this 
day  terminated  with  a  visit  to  tlie  ship  Active,  to  which  the  Surgeon, 
•who  accompanied  us,  is  attached.*  lie  added  to  his  civilities  by  con- 
ducting us  over  every  part  of  the  vessel,  showing  without  reserve  its 
equipments,  its  regulations,  and  internal  police.  After  resting  awhile 
in  its  splendid  cabins,  and  examining  the  choice  library  in  his  own 
state-room,  we  took  leave,  probably  forever,  of  a  gentleman  whose 
kindness  and  hospitality  to  a  party  of  entire  strangers,  with  no  other 
recommendation  than  the  American  name,  made  too  deep  an  impres- 
sion upon  our  feelings  ever  to  be  forgotten. 

The  residue  of  our  stay  at  Toulon  was  occupied  in  pcrambulatinu^ 
its  walls,  traversing  some  of  its  principal  streets,  and  examining  its 
public  institutions.  A  striking  peculiarity  was  observed  in  the  mode 
of  numbering  the  houses.  The  blocks  of  buildings  formed  by  tlie 
intersection  of  streets  arc  denominated  islands^  designated  numerical- 
ly, and  each  house  is  readily  found,  by  the  double  index  of  its  own 
number  and  that  of  the  isle.  Bordering  upon  the  quay  and  frontin"" 
(he  harbour,  stands  the  Hotel  de  Ville,  a  stately  edifice  embellished  by 
the  chisel  of  Pujet,  who  avenged  himself  of  two  of  his  enemies  among 
the  magistrates,  by  converting  them  into  Caryatides,  or  slaves  to  sup- 
port the  balcony,  and  by  making  their  wry  faces  so  like  the  originals, 
that  they  were  universally  recognized.  Thus  has  genius,  however  de- 
pressed, sometimes  the  means  of  revenging  the  insolence  of  wealth 
and  power  ;  as  by  the  providence  of  nature,  the  feeblest  animals  are 
frequently  armed  with  the  sharpest  stings. 

The  principal  public  squares  at  Toulon  are  the  Place  Lis  and  the 
Champ  de  Batalllc.  A  clear  and  copious  fountain,  issuing  from  the 
midst  of  marine  emblems,  adorns  the  former.  The  latter  is  a  spa- 
cious area,  bordered  by  rows  of  trees,  and  used  as  the  field  for  military 


*  This  vessel  had  just  returned  from  a  voyage  to  Leith,  in  Scotland, -whither  it  had 
been  for  the  purpose  of  bringing  home  the  remains  of  Madame  G  uiche,  Dutchess  of 
Gramont,  who  was  attached  to  the  exiled  court  of  the  Count  d'Artf)i?,  (the  pre- 
sent king  of  France,)  during  liis  residence  at  Edinburgh,  where  she  died,  and  was 
for  a  time  deposited  in  the  royal  sepulchre,  at  Ilolyrood  House.  I  believe  she 
was  the  only  one  of  the  refugees,  who  died  in  exile,  although  the  party  was  nu- 
merous, consisting  of  tiie  members  of  the  royal  famil)'  and  their  attachecs,  with 
maids  of  honour  as  well  as  of  dishonour,  from  the  pink  of  nobilily,  down  (o 
Madame  Polistron.  the  ('unnfs  mistress. 

VOL.  ir.  3 


18         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

parades.  One  of  the  noblest  edifices  in  the  town  is  the  Marine  Hos- 
pital, which  presents  a  lofty  and  rich  front  to  the  main  street.  Its 
location  is  bad,  being  in  the  midst  of  a  populous  district,  with  a  confii- 
ned  air.  It  was  not  a  subject  of  deep  regret,  that  admittance  to  its 
wards  was  refused  on  making  application  at  the  door.  We  attended 
the  theatre  one  evening  ;  but  neither  the  house  nor  the  play  presented 
any  thing  worthy  of  notice. 

A  walk  to  the  Botanic  Garden,  situated  without  the  walls  and  near 
the  base  of  the  hills  which  rise  to  the  north  of  the  town,  was  among 
our  last  and  most  pleasant  excursions.  The  location  is  admirable,  the 
grounds  lying  upon  a  declivity  which  looks  to  the  south,  and  always 
enjoys  the  genial  influence  of  the  sun.  In  the  rear,  the  enclosure  be- 
comes so  steep  as  to  rise  in  terraces  one  above  another,  all  filled  with 
plants,  and  adding  much  to  the  picturesque  beauty  of  the  garden. 
Among  the  embellishments  of  this  charming  retreat,  is  a  fountain  burst- 
ing from  a  pyramid  of  rock  overgrown  with  grass  and  moss,  present- 
ing a  beautiful  image  of  nature.  Seats  have  been  erected,  where 
visitants  may  repose  in  the  shade,  and  enjoy  the  coolness  and  the  mur- 
mur of  this  little  water-fall. 

The  plants  of  the  garden  all  bear  labels,  designating  their  generic 
and  specific  names.  A  veteran  attendant  who  seemed  well  acquainted 
with  all  the  members  of  the  numerous  family  committed  to  his  care,  con- 
ducted us  through  the  alleys  and  the  green-houses,  plucking  one  flower 
after  another,  till  each  of  our  party  had  a  fine  bouquet.  Here  the  palm- 
tree  spread  its  branches,  though  its  fruit  had  been  nipped  by  the  unu- 
sually severe  frost  of  the  last  winter.  Here  also  the  black  pepper  was 
seen  clinging  to  the  sunny  wall,  sheltered  from  the  winds,  and  finding 
a  tropical  climate.  Among  the  other  most  curious  plants,  were  all  the 
varieties  of  coffee  in  full  bearing.  That  from  Mocha  is  a  beautiful 
shrub,  six  or  eight  feet  in  height,  finely  proportioned  and  of  peculiar 
foliage.  An  orange  tree  was  observed  which  had  been  engrafted  with 
the  lemon,  and  which  was  then  bearing  six  different  kinds  of  fruit. 
One  of  the  productions  was  a  twin  monster,  half  orange  and  half 
citron,  growing  on  the  same  stem.  A  profusion  of  Japan  roses  spread 
their  gorgeous  petals  to  the  sun,  and  many  a  bud  was  just  starting  into 
life. 

The  walks  of  the  Garden  are  open  to  the  public,  and  connected 
with  the  spacious  boulevards  which  encircle  the  walls  of  the  town, 
form  one  of  the  most  delightful  promenades  imaginable,  affording  a 
wide  prospect  of  the  mountains  on  one  side,  and  of  the  sea  on  the 
other.     A  refuge  from  the  noise  and  bustle  of  crowded  streets,  and 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         lo 

from  the  heat  of  fervid  skies,  is  here  provided  at  a  trifling  expense. 
In  these  sequestered  retreats,  the  naturalist  may  indulge  in  his  favour- 
ite pursuits,  and  the  man  of  business  recreate  his  mind,  after  the  cares 
and  labours  of  the  day.  All  classes  of  the  community  are  interested 
in  institutions  of  this  description,  which  arc  to  be  found  in  almost 
every  village  in  France,  and  which  I  hope  may  ere  long  be  as  exten- 
sively introduced  into  the  United  States. 


Q(>         LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE. 

LETTER  XLVI. 

ROUTE    TO    MCE — LE    LUC DRAGUIGKAIV FREJUS — CANNES — ANTIBES 

ARRIVAL  AT  MCE SKETCH  OF  THE  TOAVN. 

March,  1826. 

At  4  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  17th,  we  left  Toulon  in  the  coach 
for  Le  Luc,  distant  about  forty  miles  to  the  north-east.  The  scenery, 
the  weather,  and  the  conversation  of  our  fellow-passengers  all  con- 
spired to  render  the  ride  agreeable,  although  it  afforded  few  incidents 
worthy  of  record.  For  the  whole  distance  the  road  traverses  a  fertile 
vale  from  five  to  ten  miles  in  breadth,  bounded  on  the  left  by  a  ridge 
of  porphyritic  hills,  and  on  the  right  by  a  succession  of  highlands, 
which  stretch  along  the  coast  of  the  Mediterranean.  The  soil  is  of  a 
reddish  complexion,  and  appears  to  be  extremely  productive.  Groves 
of  olives,  vineyards,  and  fields  of  grain,  enlivened  by  the  bloom  of  the 
peach  and  almond,  extended  on  all  sides  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach, 
forming  a  rich  and  varied  landscape.  The  mode  of  cultivating  wheat 
is  somewhat  peculiar.  It  is  sown  in  rows,  and  innumerable  compa- 
nies of  females  were  busy  in  stirring  the  ground  about  the  roots,  and 
in  plucking  up  the  superfluous  stalks.  The  peasantry  in  this  part  of 
France  have  dark,  hard,  and  severe  faces,  but  are  gentle  in  their  man- 
ners, and  industrious  in  their  habits. 

The  towns,  villages,  and  insulated  buildings  scattered  along  the 
road  are  uniformly  mean  in  appearance,  though  some  of  them  are  ro- 
mantically situated,  being  perched  upon  the  very  summits  of  the  hills, 
apparently  accessible  only  to  the  birds.  Such  is  the  location  of  the 
village,  appropriately  called  Hauteville,  seated  upon  the  pinnacle  of  a 
mountain,  and  incorporated  with  the  rocks,  hundreds  of  feet  above 
our  heads.  It  is  said  to  be  the  oldest  place  in  Provence,  and  to  have 
been  founded  at  a  period,  when  it  was  customary  to  build  upon  the 
most  elevated  ground,  partly  for  salubrity  of  air,  and  partly  for  pur- 
poses of  defence.  A  better  reason  can  be  assigned  for  erecting 
churches  and  other  religious  edifices  upon  high  places.  In  France  the 
practice  almost  universally  i)revails,  and  numerous  chapels  and  con- 
vents were  this  day  seen,  hanging  like  the  nest  of  the  eagle  in  the  top- 
most crags  of  the  mountains. 

Passing  the  old  towns  of  Solier,  Cuers,  and  several  unimportant 
villages,  we  reached  Le  Luc  at  1  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  expecting 
there  to  meet  the  coach  from  Aix,  to  take  us  forward  towards  Nice. 
But  it  was  ascertained,  that  it  would  be  necessary  to  wait  till  the  next 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         21 

(lay,  and  then  incur  the  risk  of  not  obtaining  a  passage.  A  traveller 
in  this  part  of  France  is  subjected  to  many  inconveniences.  The 
public  conveyances  are  bad,  and  the  miserable  dirty  huts  called  taverns 
are  execrable.  Strange  as  it  may  seem,  at  the  town  of  Le  Luc,  stand- 
ing at  the  junction  of  two  great  roads,  and  containing  three  thousand 
inhabitants,  there  is  not  a  single  hotel,  where  a  person  can  rest  with 
comfort. 

Reduced  to  the  alternative  of  taking  lodgings  in  a  hovel,  or  of  ma- 
king a  diversion  of  half  a  day's  ride  from  a  direct  course,  the  latter 
was  preferred  ;  and  after  partaking  of  a  dtjeunc^  which  was  of  a  piece 
with  the  rest  of  the  inn,  we  continued  our  journey  to  Draguignan, 
fifteen  or  twenty  miles  to  the  north,  and  about  the  same  distance  from 
the  sea.  The  scenery  here  became  extremely  picturesque,  consisting 
of  mountains  clothed  with  forests,  and  valleys  green  with  olives  and 
corn.  In  one  place  an  extensive  grove  of  pines  was  observed — the 
first  that  had  been  seen  in  France.  The  weather  was  as  mild,  and 
the  season  as  forward,  as  it  is  in  New- York  on  the  first  of  May. 
Groups  of  peasants  of  both  sexes  were  every  where  seen  throwing  up 
the  soil  with  spades,  forks,  and  a  kind  of  pick-axe,  preparing  it  for 
the  cultivation  of  the  vine.  In  the  South  of  France,  almost  every 
process  in  agriculture  is  effected  by  manual  labour  ;  and  the  greater 
part  of  the  drudgery  is  performed  by  females,  who  have  too  much  of 
the  coarseness  of  the  other  sex.  I  do  not  recollect  to  have  seen  a 
plough  between  Paris  and  the  Mediterranean. 

Crossing  the  classical  river  Argons,  mentioned  in  one  of  the  epis- 
tles of  Cicero,  a  pretty  stream  foaming  over  a  bed  of  rocks,  and  wind- 
ing for  several  miles  up  a  deep,  rural  vale,  we  arrived  just  at  twilight 
under  the  walls  of  Draguignan,  a  large  handsome  town,  hidden  among 
the  hills.  It  is  the  scat  of  the  Prefecture  for  the  Department  of  the 
Yar  ;  and  as  much  formality  was  required  in  entering  its  gates,  as  in 
landing  upon  the  the  quay  at  Calais.  Our  passports  were  demanded 
by  a  circle  of  police  officers,  who  on  speUing  out  our  names  and  coun- 
try, eyed  us  with  as  much  attention  and  seemed  as  much  surprised,  as  if 
we  had  come  from  the  South  Sea  Islands.  They  probably  had  never 
seen  an  American  before.  They  however  seemed  pleased  with  the 
novelty,  and  treated  us  with  much  politeness.  The  wonder  spread 
in  whispers  through  the  crowd,  and  even  boys  gathered  about  the  cus- 
tom-house to  see  how  we  looked. 

The  comforts  of  a  good  hotel  consoled  us  for  the  pains  that  had 
been  taken  to  find  it,  and  the  luxury  of  a  dish  of  tea  and  a  clean  bed 
soothed  all  the  vexations,  which  the  irregularities  of  the  coaches  had 
created.     A  long  ramble  on  the  following  morning  satisfied  us,  that 


23         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

Draguignan  itself  is  not  unworthy  of  the  traveller's  notice.  Its  an- 
cieftt  ramparts  are  washed  by  a  pretty  stream,  which  winds  through 
a  green  vale  opening  between  two  long  ranges  of  olive-clad  hills.  In 
the  centre  of  the  town,  is  a  curious  insulated  mount,  composed  of 
argillaceous  slate,  covered  with  green  sod,  and  crowned  by  an  old  fan- 
tastic tower  seventy  or  eighty  feet  in  height.  From  an  inscription  on 
its  exterior  wall,  it  appears  to  have  been  erected  in  1661  ;  but  for 
what  purpose,  it  is  difficult  to  conjecture.  The  eminence  on  which 
it  stands  overlooks  the  antique  stone  houses  and  tiled  roofs  of  Dragu- 
ignan, as  well  as  a  wide  extent  of  the  surrounding  country.  Even 
this  town,  though  nature  has  spontaneously  embellished  its  environs 
with  plants  and  flowers,  boasts  of  its  Botanic  Garden,  which  is  ar- 
ranged with  taste  and  skill.  Here  too  are  found  boulevards,  prome- 
nades, areas  and  fountains,  presenting  a  miniature  picture  of  the  me- 
tropolis. The  ten-thousand  inhabitants  rely  chiefly  upon  official 
patronage  and  the  manufacture  of  sweet  oil  for  support. 

At  3  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of  the  same  day,  we  set  out  for  Fre- 
ius,  situated  upon  the  shore  of  the  Mediterranean,  at  the  distance  of 
twenty  miles.  The  capacious  vehicle  was  of  an  odd  construction, 
and  might  perhaps  be  termed  a  sociable.  Its  body  was  ten  or  twelve 
feet  in  length,  and  its  two  seats  ran  longitudinally  along  the  sides,  so 
that  the  passengers  sat  facing  one  another,  and  were  almost  com- 
pelled to  talk.  A  coarse  military  officer,  who  appeared  to  be  a  fo- 
reigner and  in  a  state  of  intoxication,  was  of  the  party,  and  behaved 
with  much  rudeness,  often  bursting  out  into  peals  of  loud  laughter, 
and  dangling  his  heavy  sword  to  the  annoyance  of  his  neighbours. 
Few  instances  of  such  vulgar  deportment  had  been  observed,  even 
among  the  lowest  classes,  in  any  part  of  France  ;  and  a  court-mar- 
tial of  bootblacks  in  Paris  would  have  cashiered  this  mercenary  for 
ungentlemanly  and  unofficer-like  conduct. 

Between  the  foot  of  the  hills,  in  the  midst  of  which  Draguignan  is 
situated,  and  the  Mediterranean,  spreads  a  broad  alluvial  plain,  wa- 
tered by  the  Argens,  and  almost  on  a  level  with  the  sea.  Its  meagre, 
sandy  soil  is  comparatively  barren,  lying  unenclosed  and  unfilled,  pre- 
senting a  striking  contrast  with  the  green,  luxuriant  glades  that  had 
been  left  behind.  Along  the  way  were  seen  numerous  shepherds, 
shepherdesses,  and  swineherds,  whose  large  flocks  of  black  sheep, 
and  droves  of  pigs  were  grazing  the  common,  less  under  the  care  of 
the  master  than  of  his  watchful  dog.  But  the  solitary  waste  was  un- 
enlivened by  the  music  of  the  pastoral  pipe  ;  and  long-bearded  old 
men  in  red  caps,  or  squalid  girls,  with  sun-burnt  faces  and  without 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        23 

shoes  or  stockings,  afforded  but  a  sorry  exemplication  of  those  pic- 
tures of  love  and  innocence  portrayed  by  Theocritus  and  Virgil. 

We  reached  Frejus  at  7  o'clock  in  the  evening,  and  took  lodgings 
at  the  same  hotel,  in  which  Napoleon  remained  three  days,  while  on 
his  way  to  the  Island  of  Elba.  The  house  is  now  in  a  dilapidated 
condition,  and  its  undulating  floors  look  as  if  they  had  been  rocked  by 
an  earthquake.  An  attentive  landlord  showed  us  into  his  best  apart- 
ments, which  had  evidently  seen  more  prosperous  days,  and  were  an 
emblem  both  of  the  town  itself  and  of  the  fortunes  of  the  imperial 
exile,  who  had  once  been  their  tenant.  The  decayed  walls  were 
hung  with  silken  tapestry,  rich  and  beautiful  in  its  prime,  but  now  in 
tatters,  according  well  with  unhinged  tables,  defaced  mirrors,  and 
shattered  sofas. 

After  a  short  walk  by  moonlight,  which  was  found  too  dim  to  dis- 
close the  outlines  and  the  ruins  of  tiiis  old  Roman  town,  I  turned  into 
one  of  the  canopied  couches  of  our  chamber,  which  happened  to  be 
the  selfsame  bed,  in  which  tlic  dethroned  monarch  had  thrice  slept. 
There  was  no  proof  positive  that  even  the  pillows  and  clothes  had 
been  changed,  since  they  gave  a  temporary  repose  to  the  cares  of  the 
royal  fugitive.  What  an  opportunity  was  here  afforded  to  dream  of 
the  follies  of  ambition  and  the  phantoms  of  power,  the  vicissitudes  and 
vanities  of  human  life ! — 

"  I  had  a  dream,  but  'twas  not  all  a  dream." 

The  inspiration  of  the  pillow  called  up  the  splendid  pageants  of  other 
times  ;  and  the  spectres  of  war  and  conquest,  fields  of  carnage  and 
conflagrated  cities,  victories  and  triumphs,  flitted  before  me  in  the 
visions  of  the  night,  as  they  probably  did  before  the  eyes  of  the  Ex- 
Emperor,  on  the  eve  of  his  departure  from  thrones  and  palaces,  to  a 
solitary  island  of  tiie  sea  ! 

We  rose  at  day-break  the  next  morning  to  examine  the  curiosities 
of  the  town  of  Frejus  in  season  to  pursue  our  journey  at  an  early 
hour.  Frejus  may  be  considered  at  least  semi-classical  in  its  charac- 
ter. Founded  originally  by  the  Phocians  from  Marseilles,  it  subse- 
quently became  like  the  parent  state,  an  important  Roman  colony, 
and  gave  birth,  among  other  distinguished  men,  to  .Tiilius  Agricola, 
the  conqueror  of  Britain  and  the  father-in-law  of  tlic  historian  Taci- 
tus ;  as  also  to  Cornelius  Gallus,  the  friend  of  Virgil,  to  whom  the  tenth 
eclogue  of  the  poet  is  inscribed.  Gallus  himself  made  verses  of  such 
merit,  as  to  entitle  him  to  the  epithet  "divine,"  in  the  estimation  ol" 


24         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

liis  great  contemporary.     Both  he  and  Agricola  were  educated  in  the 
schools  of  Marseilles. 

The  only  objects  worthy  of  the  traveller's  attention  at  Frejus  are 
its  antiquities  ;  and  to  these  a  guide  conducted  us,  beginning  with 
the  amphitheatre,  in  form  resembling  that  at  Nismes,  but  of  smaller 
size,  less  perfect,  and  in  all  respects  less  interesting.  It  is  built  of 
square  stones  of  moderate  dimensions,  intermingled  with  tiles.  Its 
walls  are  yet  tolerably  entire,  but  encumbered  with  weeds  and  rub- 
bish. From  this  desolate  pile,  the  scene  of  vanished  gaieties,  we 
walked  quite  round  the  ancient  ramparts  of  the  city,  making  a  cir- 
cuit of  a  mile  or  two,  which  must  have  once  enclosed  many  thou- 
sands of  inhabitants,  now  reduced  to  a  handful  of  villagers.  Traces  of 
the  walls  are  at  intervals  discoverable,  and  the  massive  arches  of  an 
extensive  aqueduct,  the  uniform  appendage  of  a  Roman  town,  are  yet 
standing. 

Pursuing  a  narrow  pathway,  which  leads  through  cultivated  fields 
in  which  fragments  of  houses  and  temples  have  been  disinterred,  we 
visited  the  Golden  Gate,  which  conducted  from  the  port  into  the 
town ;  as  also  the  rtemains  of  the  ancient  pharos  and  baths,  in  the 
same  quarter.  The  head  of  Jupiter  was  found  among  the  ruins  of 
the  latter,  and  now  adorns  an  arch  near  the  modern  promenade.  All 
these  public  works  indicate  wealth,  taste,  and  splendour.  The  port 
itself,  and  the  estuary  which  connected  it  with  the  sea,  are  now  entirely 
filled  up  with  sand,  deposited  by  the  little  river  Argens,  which  gurgles 
beneath  the  old  walls.  A  pretty  garden,  blooming  with  a  variety  of 
shrubs  and  flowers,  now  occupies  the  very  site  of  the  haven,  where 
the  Roman  mariner  moored  his  ship.  The  heights  on  which  the  town 
stands  command  a  charming  view  of  the  Mediterranean ;  of  the 
small  harbour  at  the  distance  of  a  few  miles,  whence  Napoleon  em- 
barked for  Elba  ;  of  the  circular  bay  sweeping  in  a  bold,  graceful 
curve  to  the  west ;  and  of  the  hills  of  St.  Tropez  which  range  along 
the  coast. 

After  breakfast  we  again  set  forward  towards  Nice,  with  a  coach 
and  five  horses,  which  were  chartered  at  a  moderate  price  to  take 
three  of  us  as  far  as  Antibes.  A  strong  team  was  required  in  climb- 
ing the  pine-clad  hills  of  Lestrelles,  which  rise  to  the  east  of  Frejus 
and  continue  in  broken  ridges  for  many  miles.  Their  barren,  deso- 
late sides  are  uncultivated,  and  without  a  house  or  a  human  being  to 
break  the  solitude  of  the  road,  which  winds  in  terraces  to  their  sum- 
mits, disclosing  at  intervals  splendid  views  of  the  Alpine  region  on 
one  side,  and  of  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean  on  the  other.  At 
length  descending  from  these  wilds  through  deep  gorges,  and  tra- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         25 

versing  a  luxuriant  plain  watered  by  the  Luton,  wc  readied  the  little 
sea-port  of  Cannes,  containing  three  or  four  thousand  inhabitants. 
Here  Napoleon  landed  on  his  return  from  Elba  in  1815,  and  hence 
rode  in  triumph  to  Paris,  with  renovated  hopes  and  new  schemes  of 
ambition.  The  town  consists  of  a  crescent  of  white  buildings, 
standing  upon  the  very  beach,  with  a  low  narrow  border  of  sand  be- 
tween the  street  and  the  waves,  which  would  form  but  a  feeble  bar- 
rier against  the  storms  and  tumultuous  tides  of  the  Atlantic. 

A  high  rocky  promontory,  crowned  with  a  dismantled  fortress  and 
defended  by  a  small  battery,  shelters  the  port,  in  which  some  half  a 
dozen  vessels  were  seen  riding  at  anchor,  their  white  flags  streaming 
in  the  wind.  In  the  offing,  the  islands  of  St.  Marguerite  and  St. 
Honorat  elevate  their  brown  ledges  above  the  sea.  The  former  is 
strongly  fortified,  constituting  an  artificial  as  well  as  natural  defence 
to  the  harbour.  On  this  barren  rock,  the  Man  of  the  Iron  Mask  was 
confined  for  many  years.  The  large  and  commodious  hotel  at  Can- 
nes, stands  upon  the  extreme  point  of  land  near  the  port.  Its  situa- 
tion is  delightfid.  The  green  but  gentle  swells  of  the  Mediterranean 
break  upon  the  crags  under  the  very  windows,  and  fill  the  apartments 
with  their  soothing  murmurs.  To  such  music  we  dined  upon  the 
products  of  the  neighbouring  waters,  and  after  resting  an  hour  or 
two,  left  with  regret  a  place  possessing  so  many  natural  attractions. 

Between  Cannes  and  Antibes,  the  road  runs  through  a  rich  and 
beautiful  country,  at  the  base  of  olivu-crowned  hills,  and  so  close  to 
the  margin  of  the  sea,  as  frequently  to  require  terraces  hanging  upon 
the  rocks.  The  same  brilliant  phenomenon  was  here  observed,  as  in 
the  complexion  of  the  Sorgia  at  Vaucluse.  To  the  distance  of  half 
a  mile  from  the  shore,  the  water  is  of  such  moderate  depth,  and  so 
perfectly  pellucid,  as  to  reflect  the  party-coloured  hues  of  the  bottom, 
composed  of  porphyry  and  lime  stone,  and  presenting  at  the  surface 
a  splendid  sheet  of  mosaic,  in  which  purple,  green,  azure,  and  other 
colours  are  fancifully  blended.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  delicacy  and 
softness  of  its  tints,  fading  gradually  into  shades'  which  surpass  the 
mimic  touches  of  the  pencil. 

At  5  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  the  towers  of  Antibes  come  in  sight, 
and  passing  through  the  portals  of  its  high  substantial  walls,  we  took 
lodgings  for  the  night,  at  an  excellent  hotel  in  the  centre  of  the  town. 
An  odd  and  unexpected  saluation  was  received  at  the  threshold. 
Two  subalterns,  in  the  French  uniform,  came  up  and  addressed  us  in 
English,  making  some  commonplace  inquiries,  and  appearing  anxious 
to  enter  into  conversation.  One  of  them  was  an  Englishman,  and 
the  other  an  American  adventurer  from  Baltimore,  wlio  hud  enlisted 

VOL.  II.  4 


26         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

into  the  Swiss  corps,  and  now  held  the  rank  of  corporal  in  the  French 
service.  He  was  an  inteUigent,  soldier-hke  man,  and  seemed  re- 
joiced to  see  a  circle  of  his  countrymen  in  a  land  of  strangers. 

The  streets  of  Antibes  like  those  of  Toulon  are  filled  with  troops, 
forming  a  strong  garrison  to  guard  the  frontiers.  Our  ears  were  as- 
sailed by  the  din  of  martial  music,  and  the  public  squares  glittered 
with  military  parades.  As  we  passed  the  long  ranges  of  barracks, 
injudiciously  located  in  the  midst  of  a  dense  population,  sounds  of 
revelry  and  riot  burst  from  the  rooms,  evincing  as  little  decency  as 
discipline.  The  whole  of  the  south  of  France  labours  under  the 
curse  of  an  overgrown  standing  army,  quartered  upon  the  people  in 
time  of  peace,  consuming  the  fruits  of  their  industry,  corrupting  their 
manners,  and  keeping  their  liberties  in  check. 

An  hour  was  occupied  in  examining  the  town  and  harbour.  The 
latter  chiefly  merits  notice,  being  capacious  and  unique  in  its  con- 
struction ;  for  it  is  almost  entirely  the  work  of  art.  On  two  sides  it 
is  sheltered  from  the  winds  and  waves  by  a  mole,  fifteen  or  twenty 
feet  in  height,  and  wide  enough  at  top  to  form  a  fine  promenade.  In 
the  sides  of  this  rampart,  substantially  built  of  stone,  are  long  rows  of 
arched  niches,  four  or  five  feet  in  depth  ;  and  nearly  on  a  level  with 
the  water,  a  wide  quay,  hke  that  of  Marseilles,  extends  round  the 
basin  for  the  convenience  of  lading  and  unlading  ships.  At  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  mole  there  is  a  strong  fortress,  which  effectually  com- 
mands the  narrow  entrance  of  the  port.  Neither  the  number  nor 
character  of  the  vessels  in  the  harbour  appeared  to  justify  the  expense 
of  such  a  stupendous  work. 

The  situation  of  Antibes  is  peculiarly  beautiful,  and  the  view  from 
the  mole  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  South  of  France,  commanding  a 
wide  extent  of  hills,  woods,  and  waters.  A  rich  border  of  fields, 
studded  with  white  villages,  extends  round  the  head  of  the  bay, 
across  which  Nice  is  seen  at  the  distance  of  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  ; 
and  beyond,  the  Maritime  Alps  lift  their  snowy  summits  to  the  clouds, 
while  their  bold  rocky  promontories  are  washed  by  the  sea.  Our  la^t 
evening  in  France,  (how  unlike  the  inclemencies  of  the  first,  on  the 
storm-beaten  hills  between  Calais  and  Paris !)  was  mild  as  summer, 
and  led  us  to  anticipate  the  delights  of  that  country,  the  confines  of 
which  were  now  in  sight. 

Early  on  the  following  morning,  we  resumed  our  journey,  and  soon 
found  ourselves  on  the  frontiers  of  Italy.  To  the  traveller  looking 
back  from  this  point  upon  the  extent  of  country  he  has  traversed  since 
crossing  the  Straits  of  Dover,  France  appears  what  it  is  in  fact,  an  im- 
mense empire,  boundless  in  territory  as  it  is  in  resources.     Situated  in 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         27 

the  heart  of  Europe ;  blest  with  a  temperate  climate  and  a  fertile  soil ; 
washed  by  two  great  seas,  and  intersected  by  many  noble  rivers,  afford- 
ing' peculiar  facilities  for  commerce  ;  embracing-  a  hundred  splendid 
cities  ;  enriched  by  the  works  of  art ;  and  containing  an  active  popu- 
lation of  thirty  or  forty  millions — what  might  not  such  a  country  be- 
come with  political,  civil,  and  religious  institutions  free  as  our  own ! 
What  might  it  not  now  have  been,  had  the  republican  counsels  of  such 
statesmen  as  Foy  and  La  Fayette  triumphed  over  the  lawless  ambition 
of  Napoleon  ?  or  even  if  the  splendid  despotism  of  the  latter  had  not 
been  crushed  by  the  leaden  power  of  a  dynasty,  possessing  neither  the 
talents  to  be  great,  nor  the  virtues  to  be  good  ?  But  notwithstanding 
these  drawbacks,  and  often  as  the  mind  is  disgusted  with  the  evidences 
of  a  drivelling  government,  a  burdensome  soldiery,  an  oppressive  priest- 
hood, and  a  degraded  people,  no  country  in  the  world  perhaps,  con- 
tains a  greater  variety  of  interesting  objects  than  France  ;  and  after  a 
sojourn  of  four  months,  the  last  foot  of  its  territory  was  trodden  not 
without  feehngs  of  regret,  high  as  were  our  anticipations  of  enjoyment 
in  that  classical  land,  which  now  opened  before  us. 

The  transition  from  one  kingdom  to  the  other  was  not  attended  by 
any  of  those  difficulties,  expenses,  and  vexations  which  travellers  some- 
times experience.  Our  passports  and  trunks  underwent  a  slight  ex- 
amination at  the  custom-houses  on  each  side  of  the  line,  occasioning 
a  delay  of  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes.  The  boundary  between  the  two' 
countries  is  the  Var,  a  broad,  shoal  river,  or  more  properly  the  bed 
of  a  torrent  opening  from  the  Alps.  Crossing  its  long,  low,  narrow 
bridge,  we  entered  the  dominions  of  his  Sardinian  Majesty.  The  in- 
habitants upon  the  frontiers  are  so  assimilated  in  manners,  customs, 
and  language,  that  few  discriminating  marks  of  distinct  nations  are  ob- 
servable. Straggling  guards  of  short,  puny,  pale-faced  troops,  in  blue 
uniform  and  tight,  black  cloth  gaiters,  stationed  along  the  road,  were 
the  most  striking  peculiarities  which  arrested  our  attention.  They 
looked  like  a  feeble  and  inefficient  race,  fit  only  for  the  inglorious  ser- 
vice in  which  they  afe  at  present  employed. 

Our  entrance  into  Italy  aflorded  us  a  favourable  specimen  of  its  far- 
famed  climate  and  splendid  scenery.  A  pure  blue  sky  deepened  the 
azure  of  a  boundless  expanse  ofVaters,  spreading  towards  the  south  ; 
and  the  snowy  tops  of  the  mountains,  glittering  in  a  bright  morning 
sun,  presented  a  striking  contrast  with  their  green  declivities  and  with 
the  luxuriant  plain  which  skirts  their  bases.  If  Galignani's  nightingales 
did  not  warble  from  the  rocks,  a  concert  of  less  poetical  though  not 
less  melodious  birds  enlivened  the  gardens  and  groves  of  oranges, 
which  are  everywhere  seen  blooming  in  the  environs  of  Nice, 


28         LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE. 

The  town  is  approached  from  the  west  through  a  long  and  handsome 
faubourg,  denominated  La  Croix  de  Marbre,  from  the  circumstance  of 
a  marble  cross  having  been  there  erected,  to  commemorate  an  interview 
between  Charles  V.  Francis  L  and  Pope  Paul  III.  assembled  to  dis- 
cuss the  affairs  of  church  and  state  in  the  16th  century.  Long  ranges 
of  neat  white  houses,  with  Venetian  blinds  and  uniformly  surrounded 
by  gardens,  line  the  sides  of  the  street.  Here  is  the  principal  residence 
of  the  swarms  of  English,  sometimes  amounting  to  several  thousands, 
who  resort  to  Nice  during  the  winter,  for  the  sake  of  the  climate  and 
the  cheapness  of  living. 

Crossing  the  bridge  of  the  Paillon,  which  is  little  more  than  an 
apology  for  a  river,  and  passing  through  several  of  the  principal  streets, 
which  are  well  built  and  exhibit  an  air  of  magnificence,  we  arrived  at 
the  Hotel  de  Yorck,  a  stately  building  fronting  one  of  the  public  squares, 
and  affording  excellent  accommodations.  The  apartments  are  fur- 
nished in  the  English  style.  Handsome  carpets  cover  the  floors,  and 
the  wares  of  Birmingham  impart  cheerfulness  to  the  hearth.  These 
substantial  comforts  were  rendered  doubly  welcome  by  contrast  with 
the  cheerless  brick  and  stone  floors  of  the  French  hotels.* 

The  whole  of  this  day  was  busily  occupied  in  rambling  over  the  town, 
which  is  a  dull  place  and  contains  but  few  works  of  art,  that  can  inte- 
rest the  traveller.  Nature,  however,  has  been  lavish  of  her  bounties 
in  contributing  to  its  embellishment.  It  is  delightfully  situated  at  the 
outlet  of  a  deep,  verdant,  and  romantic  valley,  opening  from  the  Mari- 
time Alps  to  the  JMediterranean.     On  the  north  and  east  it  is  surround- 


■"''  It  is  always  more  agreeable  to  praise  than  to  censure,  to  be  pleased  than  to 
cavil ;  and  I  should  regret  to  leave  a  country,  which  has  afforded  me  so  much  in- 
struction and  amusement,  with  a  budget  of  complaints,  or  with  a  single  remark 
that  might  manifest  either  a  captious  spirit  or  illiberal  feelings.  But  justice  com- 
pels me  to  say,  that  the  facilities  and  conveniences  of  travelling  in  France  are  fax* 
less  than  in  the  United  States.  The  roads  are  pretty  good  ;  yet  the  public  con- 
veyances are  tediously  slow,  though  always  in  a  hurry,  jogging  on  night  and  day, 
Avithout  giving  the  passengers  time  to  eat  or  sleep.  In  the  great  cities,  good  hotels 
and  comfortable  accommodations  may  be  found,  at  moderate  prices;  but  the  ordi- 
nary inns,  on  the  principal  routes,  are  extremely  incommodious,  especially  in  win- 
ter. The  floors  are  generally  composed  of  pentagonal  tiles,  six  or  eight  inches  in 
diameter,  bedded  in  mortar,  seldom  covered  with  carpets  or  rugs,  and  slightly 
warmed  by  a  fire,  tlirown  ^^Imost  out  of  sight  at  the  back  of  a  deep  chimney.  I  have 
often  climbed  the  bed,  before  venturing  of  a  frosty  night  to  take  off  my  slippers. 
To  persons  in  ill  health,  such  inconveniences  become  dangerous  and  intolerable. 
The  beds  are  uniformly  good,  and  the  furniture  of  rooms  is  often  elegant.  In  sum- 
mer, travelling  in  France  is  doubtless  far  more  agreeable  ;  for  French  houses,  as 
well  private  as  public,  are  much  better  calculated  for  warm  than  for  cold  weather. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         29 

cd  by  ranges  of  mountains,  rising  to  the  height  of  two  or  three  thou- 
sand feet,  and  terminating  in  the  hold  promontory  of  Montalbano, 
composed  of  ledges  of  brown  rock  and  forming  one  of  the  boundaries 
of  the  bay,  which  spreads  between  Nice  and  Antibes.  From  the  south, 
the  sea  rolls  in  its  waves  upon  the  shore,  bathing  the  very  foundations 
of  the  town.  The  sides  of  the  neighbouring  hills  are  cultivated  half 
way  to  their  summits,  where  white  country  seats  and  farm-houses  arc 
seen  peeping  from  plantations  of  olives. 

But  the  most  striking  and  picturesque  object  is  an  insulated,  preci- 
pitous rock,  rearing  its  barren  crags  several  hundred  feet  above  the 
tops  of  the  houses,  by  which  it  is  encircled  on  all  sides,  except  towards 
the  sea,  where  a  terraced  road  has  been  extended  round  its  base,  to 
connect  the  two  sections  of  the  town.  This  curious  mount  covers  se- 
veral acres,  sloping  towards  the  north,  and  terminating  to  the  south  in 
impending  cliffs.  Its  top  is  naked,  and  forms  a  natural  observatory, 
whence  the  eye  takes  in  a  wide  horizon.  It  is  too  elevated  for  purpo- 
ses of  defence,  and  its  parched  surface  too  arid  for  cultivation. 

On  the  eastern  side  of  this  rock,  and  between  its  base  and  Montal- 
bano, is  the  harbour  of  Nice,  which  like  that  of  Antibes,  appears  to 
be  in  a  great  measure  artificial.  It  is  so  completely  out  of  sight,  that 
we  looked  some  time  before  it  was  discovered.  A  substantial  mole 
defends  it  from  the  violence  of  the  waves,  leaving  but  a  narrow  en- 
trance. The  basin,  though  not  very  capacious,  is  of  sufficient  depth 
to  admit  ships  of  any  burden.  It  is  surrounded  by  handsome  quays, 
bordered  by  blocks  of  warehouses.  There  were  between  one  and  two 
hundred  vessels  in  port,  most  of  them  small.  An  American  deck  was 
looked  for  in  vain  among  the  number  ;  and  from  all  I  could  learn,  our 
trade  with  the  place  is  very  limited,  though  the  United  States  have 
here  a  Consul. 

The  handsomest  part  of  Nice  is  perhaps  the  stately  range  of  build- 
ings, with  arcades  in  their  basements,  encircling  the  spacious  open 
area,  denominated  the  Piazza  Vittoria  from  Victor  Amadeus  III.  to 
whom  it  owes  its  embellishments,  and  in  honour  of  whom  a  triumphal 
arch  has  been  erected  at  its  entrance,  near  the  eastern  barrier  of  the 
town.  From  this  square  on  which  the  Hotel  de  Ville,  Custom-House, 
and  other  public  edifices  are  situated,  a  terraced  road  extends  on  the 
north  of  the  singular  bluff"  above  described,  and  along  the  bank  of  the 
Paillon,  to  the  southern  division  of  the  town.  The  river  itself,  so 
called  by  courtesy,  is  at  this  season  a  mere  thread  of  water,  not  half 
sufficient  to  cover  the  broad  stony  channel  over  which  it  trickles,  and 
scarcely  enough  to  supply  the  troops  of  washer-women,  who  line  its 
shores.     Two  long,  lofty,  and  substantial  bridges  thrown  across  its  bed 


30     '    LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

indicate,  what  is  the  fact,  that  at  times  tremendous  torrents,  fed  by 
heavy  rains  and  the  snows  of  the  Alps,  sweep  down  this  opening'  from 
the  mountains  to  the  sea. 

A  visit  to  the  Governor's  house  and  to  the  public  Promenade  in  its 
vicinity  concluded  our  rambles  over  Nice.  The  former  is  a  new  and 
neat  building,  remarkable  only  for  the  pretty  Ionic  columns,  which 
adorn  its  stair-way.  The  latter  is  the  place  of  rendezvous  for  all  the 
fashionables  in  town.  It  consists  of  a  long  terrace,  of  the  width  of 
an  ordinary  street,  guarded  by  railings,  and  erected  along  the  roofs  of 
a  range  of  buildings  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  from  the  ground.  Hand- 
some flights  of  white  marble  steps  lead  to  the  walk.  One  side  of  it 
below  is  bordered  by  the  Place  Royale,  planted  with  long  vistas  of 
trees,  and  on  the  other,  the  waves  come  in  and  break  upon  the  beach 
in  unceasing  murmurs.  At  the  fashionable  season  it  is  thronged  with 
ladies  and  gentlemen  from  all  countries,  who  resort  hither  to  enjoy  a 
pure  air  and  a  splendid  prospect  reaching  in  clear  weather  to  the 
mountains  of  Corsica. 

Finding  few  inducements  to  remain  longer  at  Nice,  and  many  to 
urge  us  forward  towards  the  southern  limits  of  our  tour,  we  conclu- 
ded to  take  our  departure  on  the  same  evening  for  Genoa,  in  the  Cou- 
rier, which  carries  the  mail,  and  travels  night  and  day.  But  the  weight 
of  our  baggage  would  cause  such  an  impediment  to  the  necessary 
speed  of  a  conveyance,  which  is  for  a  considerable  part  of  the  way  on 
mules,  that  the  superintendent  refused  us  seats  after  our  passages  had 
been  engaged.  Other  arrangements  were  therefore  made  to  com- 
mence climbing,  on  the  following  morning,  the  Maritime  Alps,  which, 
like  the  walls  of  Milton's  Eden,  interposed  their  icy  ramparts  between 
our  hopes  and  the  promised  paradise  beyond. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         31 

LETTER  XLVIL 

ROUTE    FROM     NICE    TO    GENOA MONACO — MENTONE VENTIMIGLIA — 

SAN  REMO — ALBENGA FINALE SAVONE ARRIVAL  AT  GENOA. 

3Iarch,  1826. 

On  the  21st  we  left  Nice  for  Genoa,  a  distance  of  something  more 
than  two  hundred  Enghsh  miles.  The  commencement  of  so  arduous 
a  journey  over  the  Maritime  Alps,  which  from  the  disheartening-  ac- 
counts of  some  of  our  friends  at  Marseilles,  had  long  been  dreaded, 
was  rendered  still  more  appalling  by  the  gloomy  state  of  the  weather, 
and  the  wretched  vehicle  which  afforded  no  shelter  from  its  inclemen- 
cies. Disappointed  of  a  seat  in  the  Courier,  we  were  compelled  to 
engage  an  accommodation  coach,  at  an  hour  in  the  evening  too  late 
to  enable  us  to  examine  the  establishment ;  and  the  traveller  who  be- 
speaks conveyances  on  the  representations  of  their  owners  is  sure  to 
be  cheated.  What  was  our  surprise  on  going  to  the  door  of  the 
hotel,  to  find  a  small,  shattered,  crazy  gig,  without  a  top,  with  only 
one  skeleton  horse,  and  a  boy  for  a  driver !  This  was  the  "  buona 
cairozza'''  and  the  '•^huoni  cavalli^^''  which  had  been  chartered  to  take 
us  and  all  our  baggage  over  hills  that  seemed  almost  impassable  with 
the  best  of  teams  !  But  the  bargain  was  sealed,  and  there  was  no  re- 
treating without  loss  of  time  and  money  ;  so  seating  ourselves  in  the 
tub  of  a  vehicle,  with  the  urchin  sitting  "squat  like  a  toad"  upon  the 
shafts,  to  guide  the  horse,  we  commenced  our  travels  in  Italy  for 
health,  information,  and  pleasure,  under  circumstances  apparently  not 
very  well  calculated  to  secure  either  of  these  objects.  Sed  finis  opus 
coronal ! 

In  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  after  leaving  tlie  gates  of  Nice,  we  began 
to  climb  what  Madam  Starke,  the  mother  of  all  tourists,  would  deno- 
minate an  Alp!  for  she,  good  lady,  seems  to  view  the  giant  sentinels, 
planted  along  tlic  northern  frontier  of  Italy,  in  an  individual  rather 
than  a  collective  capacity,  and  familiarly  speaks  of  encountering  this 
or  that  one  of  the  group  in  her  endless  adventures.  But  thanks  to 
the  levelling  system  of  Napoleon,  whose  power  was  exerted  with  equal 
success  in  humbling  monarchs  and  mountains,  the  craggy  and  preci- 
pitous acclivities  of  Montalbano  were  found  to  be  less  difficult  of 
ascent  than  had  been  anticipated.  Bonaparte  here  commenced  a 
great  road  similar  to  that  over  the  Semplon  and  Mont  Cenis.  The 
first  part  of  it  was  finished  in  a  style  of  magnificence  which  nothing 
can  surpass,  consisting  of  long  terraces,  often  hewn  from  the  solid 


:J2  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

lock,  and  hanging  upon  the  crags  thousands  of  feet  above  the  sea. 
Had  he  remained  upon  the  throne  a  few  years  longer,  tlie  whole  route 
from  Nice  to  Genoa,  and  thence  over  the  Apennines  to  Pisa,  would 
have  been  completed  in  the  same  style  of  grandeur.  But  by  the  in- 
fluence of  the  Holy  Alliance,  and  owing  to  the  pusillanimous  jealousies 
of  his  Sardinian  Majesty,  (familiarly  denominated  "  king  of  the  mar- 
mots and  anchovies,")  who  trusts  more  to  the  inaccessible  fastnesses 
of  his  mountains  than  to  the  hearts  of  his  subjects  for  the  protection 
of  his  dominion,  this  great  work  has  been  discontinued,  while  the 
funds  which  might  have  been  appropriated  to  its  completion,  are  de- 
voted to  the  embellishment  of  palaces,  or  the  endowments  of  chapels 
and  convents.  Such  are  some  of  the  fruits,  which  the  glorious  pacifi- 
cation of  Europe,  and  the  restoration  of  legitimate  sovereigns  have 
produced ! 

For  the  first  thirty-five  or  forty  miles  from  Nice,  comprising  the 
highest  and  most  rugged  part  of  the  Maritime  Alps  bordering  upon 
the  sea,  the  road  is  wide  and  perfectly  smooth,  being  safe  for  carriages 
of  any  description.  Even  our  apology  for  a  horse,  with  an  occasional 
alleviation  of  a  part  of  his  burden,  wound  his  way  up  the  spiral  ter- 
races without  much  difficulty,  and  at  a  pace  more  rapid  than  was 
deemed  possible.  In  the  ascent,  we  at  first  left  behind  the  orange 
wroves  and  gardens  of  Nice  ;  then  the  plantations  of  olives,  which 
straggle  far  up  the  sides  of  Montalbano  ;  till  at  length  we  arrived  at 
a  region  of  perfect  desolation,  consisting  of  bleak  and  naked  ridges 
of  rock.  The  solitude  and  wildness  of  the  scenery  here  strike  the 
mind  with  terror.  For  many  miles,  only  three  persons  of  any  kind 
were  seen — two  of  them  were  shepherds  or  rather  goatherds,  who 
were  sheltering  themselves  under  a  clift'  far  above  our  heads.  Their 
tattered  garments,  long  beards,  and  red  caps  gave  them  rather  an  un- 
prepossessing appearance,  in  such  a  locality,  especially  to  those  who 
chanced  to  think  of  banditti.  But  they  were  doubtless  honest  men, 
gleaning  a  scanty  subsistence  from  desert  hills.  The  only  permanent 
resident  in  these  sohtudes  is  an  old  lady,  who  keeps  a  little  tavern  by 
the  way-side.  Our  juvenile  driver  was  on  this  occasion  her  only  cus- 
tomer, and  drank  off"  his  full  glass  of  gin,  without  sugar  or  water,  at  a 
swallow.  To  add  to  the  dreariness  of  this  waste  of  rocks,  a  snow  storm 
here  envelloped  us  for  a  time  ;  the  first  that  had  been  met  since  lea- 
ving Lyons. 

In  the  course  of  a  few  hours  we  escaped  from  this  inhospitable  re- 
gion ;  the  sun  burst  through  the  clouds  ;  and  the  picturesque  shores 
of  the  Mediterranean,  composed  of  bold  promontories,  crowned  occa- 
.sionally  with  a  white  village,  and  bathed  by  the  blue  waves,  came  into 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  :JJ 

full  view,  stretching  along  far  beneath  us.  The  most  considerable  of. 
these  little  towns  are  Villafranca  and  Monaco — the  former,  with  its  for- 
tress and  small  port,  sheltered  under  the  cliffy  of  Montalbano  ;  and 
the  latter,  the  ancient  Templum  Herculis  Monoeci,*  seated  in  the  most 
romantic  manner,  upon  a  hij^ii  rocky  headland.  Such  an  exquisite 
picture,  the  features  of  which  can  hardly  be  surj)assed  in  grandeur  and 
beauty,  made  us  forget  the  inconveniences  of  our  vehicle,  and  the 
other  vexations  of  the  morning. 

From  the  summit  of  this  point  of  the  Alps,  we  descended  rapidly 
into  a  sunny,  fertile  vale,  opening  to  the  south,  and  like  the  environs 
of  Nice,  blooming  with  gardens,  and  groves  of  the  orange  and  citron, 
laden  with  golden  fruit.  What  a  change  was  here  within  a  single 
hour,  from  snow-storms,  to  a  climate  too  warm  for  comfort  in  the  sun  i 
At  the  outlet  of  this  beautiful  vale,  and  upon  the  shore  of  the  Medi- 
terranean, stands  the  little  town  of  Mentone,  handsomely  built,  con- 
taining a  pretty  church,  and  a  small  but  neat  hotel,  at  which,  refresh- 
ments of  a  good  quality  were  obtained.  The  landlady  speaks  both  the 
French  and  Italian  languages,  as  do  most  of  the  innkeepers  along  this 
road,  though  the  peasantry  have  a  jargon  of  their  own,  which  nobody 
but  themselves  can  understand.  Mentone,  like  most  of  the  villages 
on  the  borders  of  the  Mediterranean,  has  its  little  port,  but  no  wharves, 
the  small  vessels  being  drawn  upon  the  sandy  beach  to  receive  or  dis- 
charge their  cargoes. 

From  this  place  onward,  our  passports  were  several  times  demanded 
^nd  our  trunks  opened,  apparently  for  no  other  reason  than  that  of  ex- 


*  This  little  village,  hidden  from  the  world  at  the  foot  of  the  Alps,  is  of  great 
antiquity,  and  was  one  of  the  principal  towns  and  ports  of  the  old  Liguria.  It 
claims  the  honour  of  having  been  tlie  empire  of  Hercules  ;  and  its  name  is  de- 
rived from  two  Greek  words  (/ucvo;  and  cwwv,)  indicating  that  the  demigod  alone 
there  reigned,  or  that  he  was  the  sole  divinity  of  the  place.  It  had  a  citadel  as 
early  as  the  Augustan  age,  from  which  and  from  the  Alpine  heights  in  the  vicinity. 
Virgil  represents  Caesar  descending  to  meet  I'ompey  from  the  east : 

Aggeribus  socer  Alpinis,  atque  arce  Monoeci 
Descendens  ;  gener  advcrsis  instructus  Eois. 

The  castle  remains  to  this  day,  and  it  is  singular  that  it  should  have  been  visited 
by  two  such  travellers,  as  Addison  and  Sir  James  Edward  Smith,  without  any  allu- 
sion, I  believe,  to  its  classical  associations.  The  latter  tourist  was  confined  hero 
two  days  by  stress  of  weather,  and  gives  an  amusing  account  of  his  adventure?. 
At  the  lime  of  his  visit,  Monaco  was  a  principality,  having  a  sprig  of  royalty  for 
its  sovereign,  who  boasted  of  dominions  some  three  or  four  miles  in  extent,  where 
he  divided  empire  with  the  wild  beasts  of  tlie  mountains.  The  Duke  of  York. 
brother  of  George  III.  died  in  the  Palace  of  the  Prince,'. 
VOL.  11.  5 


34         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

acting  a  fee,  to  support  the  swarms  of  custom-house  officers  and  sol- 
diers, who  are  everywhere  seen  lounging  along  the  road.  It  is  impos- 
sible there  can  be  smuggling  among  petty  villages  of  this  kind  ;  and 
the  vexation  of  being  stopped  an  hour,  when  the  traveller  is  in  haste, 
besides  paying  for  being  detained,  becomes  intolerable.  From  Antibes 
to  Genoa,  we  were  subjected  to  more  delay  and  expense,  than  in  the 
whole  of  France  and  England  put  together. 

Between  Mentone  and  Vcntimiglia,  the  road  traverses  a  beautiful 
strip  of  cultivation,  extending  from  the  Mediterranean  to  the  foot  of 
the  Alps.  Jn  some  cases  the  mountains  push  themselves  in  high  rocky 
capes  far  into  the  sea  ;  and  at  others,  they  recede  from  the  coast,  lea- 
ving little  alluvial  plains,  smiling  with  tillage,  and  abounding  with  corn 
and  fruits  of  various  kinds.  A  fringe  of  olives  uniformly  skirts  the 
bases  of  the  hills,  and  forms  a  striking  contrast  with  the  barren  peaks 
towering  above.  Some  of  these  little  vales  opening  from  the  Alps  are 
extremely  picturesque,  enclosed  by  impassable  ramparts,  on  all  sides 
except  the  south,  enjoying  a  delicious  climate,  rich  in  rural  wealth,  re- 
tired from  the  rest  of  the  world,  and  blest  with  unbroken  quiet.  The 
inhabitants  who  are  plain,  simple,  and  mild  in  their  manners,  appear 
to  be  contented  and  happy,  looking  out  from  their  sohtudes  upon  the 
blue  and  bright  expanse  of  waters,  which  beat  upon  their  rocks,  and 
roll  in  with  grandeur  upon  their  shores.  Most  of  these  valleys  are 
washed  by  torrents,  several  of  which  we  crossed  during  the  day.  Over 
one  of  them  is  thrown  a  new  stone  bridge,  called  the  Pont  St.  Louis, 
whence  you  look  down  into  a  frightful  chasm,  formed  by  an  amphithe- 
atre of  perpendicular  cliffs. 

At  Ventimiglia,  a  considerable  town  occupying  a  steep  and  almost 
inaccessible  promontory,  about  40  miles  from  Nice,  the  road  passable 
with  carriages  terminates,  and  what  Madam  Starke  calls  "  a  bridle 
path"  extends  to  Noli,  within  half  a  day's  ride  of  Genoa.  Here, there- 
fore without  much  regret,  we  were  compelled  to  quit  the  carriage,  such 
as  it  was,  and  resort  to  the  still  more  humble  conveyance  of  riding  upon 
ponies  for  a  long  journey  of  two  days.  A  donkey  was  employed  to 
carry  our  baggage.  The  poor  little  fellow  had  a  monstrous  load  of  it, 
with  two  large  trunks  for  a  foundation,  and  a  superstructure  of  sacks, 
hat  cases,  cloaks,  and  umbrellas,  seeming  sufficient  to  overwhelm  him, 
as  he  was  not  much  larger  than  a  sheep.  But  Sardo  (for  so  his  master 
called  him,)  bore  his  burden  with  patience,  and  heavy  as  it  was,  would 
permit  neither  Nina  nor  her  sister  pony  to  lead  the  way,  which  he  had 
travelled  a  thousand  times. 

The  muleteer  walked  the  whole  distance,  upwards  of  a  hundred  miles 
in  two  days,  without  complaining  of  fatigue,  being  constantly  employed 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         35 

in  traversing  the  same  route  on  foot.  He  was  a  faithful  and  kind- 
liearted  guide,  frequently  collecting  and  presenting  to  us  bouquets  of 
wild-flowers,  which  bloomed  by  the  side  of  the  path.  A  singular  inci- 
dent occurred  to  him  on  the  route.  One  of  his  acquaintances  from 
Genoa,  whom  he  met  on  the  road,  gave  him  the  fust  intelligence,  that 
his  only  brother  had  just  been  drowned  on  the  coast  of  Spain.  After 
stopping  for  some  time,  he  overtook  us,  bathed  in  tears,  and  frantic 
with  grief.  He  tore  his  pocket  handkerchief  in  pieces  and  flung  it 
away  :  then  stripping  oft'  his  cravat,  he  alternately  drenched  it  in  tears, 
and  washed  it  in  the  rivulets  along  the  road. 

At  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  we  reached  San  Remo,  and  although 
the  weather  was  delightfully  pleasant,  and  we  were  anxious  to  pursue 
our  journey,  our  conducteur  refused  to  go  farther  on  that  day  ;  we 
therefore  took  lodgings  for  the  night  at  the  Hotel  de  la  Palma,  which 
was  more  spacious  and  comfortable,  than  the  frightful  accounts  of  this  - 
route  had  led  us  to  anticipate.  On  its  top  is  a  fine  terrace,  covered  ^ 
with  flowers,  and  overlooking  the  town,  with  the  Alps  on  one  side, 
and  the  sea  upon  the  other.  As  good  a  table  and  attendance  were  ~^ 
here  found,  as  the  most  fastidious  traveller  could  wish.  In  the  waiter, 
for  the  first  time  was  observed  the  custom  of  wishing  you  good  evening, 
as  he  brings  in  the  lights,  A  peculiarity  still  more  striking  arrested 
our  attention  some  days  before.  One  of  our  party  in  the  coach  hap- 
pening to  sneeze,  the  gentleman  who  sat  next  to  him  raised  his  hat, 
and  sung  out  '■'■viva.'"  This  custom  is  generally  in  vogue,  and  seems 
to  be  founded  in  the  supposition,  that  sneezing  is  an  indication  of  bad 
health,  calling  for  the  sympathy  and  good  wishes  of  others.  It  pro- 
bably originated  with  the  Roman  augurs,  who  placed  sternutation 
among  the  Dira,  whence  they  drew  their  omens. 

As  an  evidence  of  tlie  mildness  of  the  climate  along  the  coast  of  the 
Mediterranean,  it  may  be  mentioned  that  a  dish  of  green  peas  was 
among  the  rarities  on  the  table  at  the  hotel.  They  were  served  up 
raw,  in  the  pod,  by  way  of  dessert.  Oranges  just  plucked  from  the 
gardens,  with  the  leaves  green  upon  the  stem,  were  found  in  profusion. 
Great  quantities  of  them  are  raised  for  exportation.  In  short,  San 
Remo,  although  situated  on  the  very  declivity  of  the  Alps,  is  in  the 
midst  of  one  of  the  most  flowery  and  delicious  regions  I  have  ever 
visited.  The  air  was  fragrant  even  at  this  early  season,  and  luxuriant 
groves  of  the  citron  and  orange,  interspersed  with  the  purple  blossom 
of  the  peach,  everywhere  met  the  eye.  San  Ilemo  contains  two  or 
three  pretty  churches,  a  large  hospital,  and  other  public  buildings,  by 
no  means  deficient  in  taste  or  mean  in  appearance.     A  little  port,  de- 


m  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

fended  by  a  mole,  spreads  before  the  (own.  We  had  a  delightful  ram- 
ble at  evening  along  the  beach,  to  see  the  sun  set  upon  the  mountains, 
and  to  watch  the  swells  of  the  sea  breaking  and  murmuring  upon  the 
shore.  The  waters  of  the  Mediterranean  are  so  exquisitely  beautiful, 
that  one  is  never  tired  of  gazing  upon  the  azure  expanse,  or  of  listen- 
ing to  the  surge  as  it  beats  upon  the  rocks.  There  is  a  sort  of  lone- 
liness along  this  road,  which  seems  to  deepen  the  murmur  of  the 
waves,  and  whicli  incUnes  the  traveller  to  seek  what  Byron  calls  com- 
panionship with  the  great  objects  of  nature. 

In  our  rambles  through  the  town,  we  witnessed  one  of  those  pic- 
tures, which  are  but  too  common  in  this  country.  A  company  of 
perhaps  fifty  females  were  employed  in  carrying  baskets  of  sand  upon 
their  heads,  to  mend  the  road,  while  a  large  party  of  men,  consisting 
probably  of  their  husbands  and  brothers,  were  engaged  in  playing  ball 
near  by,  and  a  group  of  fat  priests  and  friars  were  looking  on !  In 
every  part  of  the  continent  of  Europe  we  have  yet  visited,  woman  is 
made  the  drudge  of  life,  on  whom  all  its  servile  offices  devolve, 
reminding  one  of  the  aboriginal  state  of  society  in  our  own  country. 
By  the  indolence  or  tyranny  of  the  other  sex,  she  is  driven  from  her  little 
sphere  of  domestic  cares,  and  compelled  to  undergo  toils  fit  only  for 
beasts  of  burden.  Even  in  France,  polished,  gallant  France,  the 
land  of  chivalry  and  love,  ten  thousand  instances  of  the  degradation 
and  slavery  of  females  strike  the  mind  of  the  traveller  with  indigna- 
tion. 

We  left  San  Remo  at  daylight  the  next  morning,  and  pursued  our 
journey  along  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean,  through  numerous 
little  white  villages,  which  stud  the  coast,  and  render  it  extremely  pictu- 
resque, contrasted  with  the  long  tracts  of  olives  at  the  foot  of  the 
Alps,  and  the  unpeopled  solitudes  to  the  north.  The  scenery  during 
our  ride  this  forenoon  assumed  a  bolder  and  wilder  character,  the  valleys 
becoming  loss  fertile,  and  the  mountains  more  savage,  often  termina- 
ting upon  the  sea  in  abrupt  crags  of  lime-stone.  Half  a  dozen  tor- 
rents were  crossed,  which  open  in  deep  gorges  from  the  hills,  and  at 
certain  seasons  are  swept  Iry  impetuous  floods.  The  broad,  rocky 
channels,  strewed  with  the  ruins  of  the  mountains,  prove  that  this  dis- 
trict, mild  as  the  climate  now  was,  is  sometimes  scourged  by  the  ele- 
ments. 

The  asperities  of  this  route,  and  the  mode  of  conveyance  to  which 
travellers  are  obliged  to  resort,  seemed  sufficiently  arduous  for  the 
rougher  sex,  and  it  occasioned  in  us  not  a  little  surprise  to  find,  that 
>adies  are  sometimes  sufficicntlv  adventurous  to  encounter  the  difficnU 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         37 

ties  of  the  way.  Between  Port  Maurice  and  Oneglia,  we  overtook  a 
well  dressed  and  genteel  looking  woman,  who  appeared  to  be  an 
Italian,  mounted  on  horse-back,  with  a  cavalier  and  a  train  of  servants 
behind.  She  however  so  far  dispensed  with  female  delicacy,  as  to 
assume  that  posture  upon  the  saddle,  which  she  deemed  the  most  se- 
cure ;  and  her  looks  did  not  indicate,  that  she  was  at  all  conscious  of 
any  impropriety,  in  planting  a  foot  in  each  stirrup.  — ^ 

From  the  brow  of  Monte  Diana,  a  lolly  promontory  round  which 
the  path  winds,  some  miles  beyond  Oneglia,  we  had  a  first  and  most 
splendid  view  of  the  Apennines,  across  the  Gulf  of  Genoa,  at  the  distance 
of  eighty  or  a  hundred  miles.  The  long  range  was  visible  from  the  head 
of  the  Gulf  to  a  point  which  our  guide  thought  must  be  as  far  south 
as  Florence.  Their  lofty  summits  were  covered  with  snow,  and  almost 
exactly  resembled  white,  fleecy  clouds  reposing  in  the  verge  of  the 
horizon.  A  more  magnificent  prospect  can  scarcely  be  imagined, 
than  was  afibrded  by  this  interminable  chain  of  mountains,  awakening 
tlie  historical  associations  and  the  classic  dreams  of  boyhood  ; — the 
dim  line  of  coast  stretching  at  their  bases  ; — the  deep  azure  sea  spread- 
ing on  this  side  ;  and  the  whole  picture  briglitened  by  the  unclouded 
splendours  of  noon-day.  Under  the  chffs  many  hundred  feet  beneath 
us,  numerous  vessels  were  seen,  spreading  their  white  sails  to  the 
breeze,  and  journeying  on  to  difierent  ports.  Among  these  was  a 
brig-of-war,  constituting  something  like  the  tenth  part  of  the  naval 
force  of  his  Sardinian  Majesty.  She  was  scouring  the  coast  between 
Nice  and  Genoa,  to  prevent  smuggling,  and  to  keep  the  anchovies  iu 
order ! 

Passing  the  villages  of  Longuella  and  Allassio,  perched  upon  tiie 
acclivities  of  the  Alps,  we  descended  just  at  evening  into  the  Vale  of 
Albenga,  which  is  the  largest  traversed  on  this  route,  and  is  watered 
by  a  considerable  stream.  It  is  four  or  five  miles  wide,  where  it  opens 
upon  the  sea  ;  and  the  eye  is  enabled  to  follow  its  windings  for  a  long 
distance  to  the  left,  till  it  is  lost  among  the  hills.  Several  small  vil- 
lages, each  of  which  shows  a  steeple  or  two,  are  seated  along  the  sides 
of  the  vale,  presenting  a  charming  picture  of  happy  rusticity  and  rural 
(piiet.  The  formation  ofthe  hills  is  here  a  reddish  sand-stone,  and  nothing 
can  surpass  either  the  fertility  of  the  soil  or  the  exactness  of  the  tillage. 
Fields  resembling  extensive  gardens  for  many  miles  border  upon  tjie 
road,  and  produce  corn,  wine,  and  fruits  in  abundance.  The  peasan- 
try were  just  returning  from  their  daily  labours,  bearing  the  implements 
of  husband/,  with  cheerful  and  contented  faces;  while  the  smiling 
landscape  bore  witnefs  to  tlirir  lionost  industrv.     At  the  ontlet  of  tlio 


38         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

vale,  stands  the  town  of  Albenga,  which  is  one  of  the  most  considera- 
ble upon  the  coast,  and  the  seat  of  a  Bishop.* 

We  had  hoped  to  reach  Finale  to-day,  where  good  accommodations 
are  to  be  had  ;  but  a  heavy  shower,  which  poured  in  torrents,  and  the 
approach  of  night  compelled  us  to  seek  lodgings  at  a  miserable  dirty 
tavern  in  the  little  village  of  Pietro.  We  were  drenched  to  the  skin, 
and  the  only  fire  to  be  had  was  a  pan  of  charcoals,  the  fumes  of  which 
poisoned  the  air  of  the  small  chambers.  So  despatching  our  supper, 
consisting  of  a  boiled  egg,  and  a  dish  of  poor  coffee  drunk  out  of  a 
tumbler,  we  hurried  to  bed  as  soon  as  possible  to  keep  warm.  On 
peeping  from  the  window  next  morning,  a  tin  sign  was  seen  dangling 
in  front  labelled  with  the  words  "  Locanda  VAmericam .'"  an  odd  com- 


*  The  romantic  region  about  Albengu,  and  indeed  the  whole  coast  between  Nice 
and  Genoa,  appears  to  have  beeu,  in  the  middle  a^fes,  the  scene  of  chivalrous  ad- 
ventures, which  the  natural  features  of  the  district  are  so  well  calculated  to  inspire. 
Vaqueiras,  a  valiant  Knight  and  Troubadour,  who  accompanied  the  iVIarquis  of 
Monti'errat  to  the  Holy  Land,  in  the  fourlh  Crusade,  thus  recounts,  in  one  of  the 
rhapsodies  addressed  to  his  patron,  a  high  achievement  which  was  performed  by 
them,  between  Finale  and  Albenga,  on  their  way  back  from  Palestine  to  Provence, 
at  the  commencement  of  the  13th  century  : 

"  Do  you  remember,'''  says  he,  "  the  Jongleur  Aimonet,  who  brought  you  news 
of  Jocobina,  when  she  was  on  tlie  point  of  being  carried  into  Sardinia,  and  married 
to  a  man  she  disliked  ?  Do  you  also  remember  how,  on  bidding  ycu  farewell,  she 
threw  herself  into  your  aims,  and  besought  you,  in  such  moving  terms,  to  protect 
her  against  the  injustice  of  her  uncle  ?  You  immediately  ordered  five  of  your 
bravest  esquires  to  mount.  We  rode  all  night,  after  supper.  With  my  own  hand 
I  bore  her  from  the  domain,  amidst  an  universal  outcry.  They  pursued  us,  horse 
and  foot ;  we  fled,  at  full  speed ;  and  we  already  thought  ourselves  out  of  danger, 
when  we  were  attacked  by  the  knights  of  Pisa.  With  so  many  cavaliers  pressing 
close  upon  us,  so  many  shields  glittering  around  us,  and  so  many  banners  waving 
in  the  wind,  you  need  not  ask  us  whether  we  were  afraid.  We  concealed  ourselves 
between  Albenga  and  Finale,  and,  from  the  place  of  our  retreat,  we  heard  on  all 
sides  the  sounds  of  horn  and  clarion,  and  the  signal  cries  of  pursuit.  Two  days  we 
remained,  without  meat  or  drink,  and  when  on  the  third  day,  we  recommenced 
our  journey,  we  encountered  twelve  banditti,  and  we  knew  not  how  to  conduct 
ourselves ;  for  to  attack  them  on  horseback  was  impossible.  I  dismounted,  and 
advanced  against  them  on  foot.  I  was  wounded  by  a  lance  ;  but  I  disabled  three 
or  four  of  my  opponents,  and  put  the  rest  to  flight.  My  companions  then  came  to 
my  assistance ;  we  drove  the  robbers  from  the  defile,  and  you  passed  in  safety. 
You,  no  doubt,  recollect,  how  merrily  we  dined  together,  although  we  had  only  a 
single  loaf  to  eat.  and  nothing  to  drink.  In  the  evening  we  arrived  at  Nice,  and 
were  received  by  our  friend  Puiclair  with  transports  of  joy.  The  next  day  you 
gave  Jacobina  in  marriage  to  Anselmo,  and  recovered  for  him  his  county  of  Venti- 
miglia,  in  spite  of  his  uncle,  who  endeavoured  to  despoil  him  of  it." — Sismondfs 
Literature  of  the  South  of  Europe,  Vol.  J.  p.  97. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         39 

pound  of  Italian  and  French,  to  designate  the  American  Hotel.  It  is 
difficult  to  see  what  should  induce  the  good  lady  to  pay  such  a  com- 
pliment to  our  country,  unless  it  be  Irom  her  vicinity  to  the  birth-place 
of  Columbus. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  23d,  we  pursued  our  journey  from 
Pietro,  through  scenery  rugged,  waste,  and  wild,  with  the  misty  tops 
of  the  mountains  above  us  on  the  left,  and  the  sea,  agitated  by  storms 
during  the  night,  timndering  in  upon  the  rocks  far  below  us  on  the 
right.  Bright  skies  and  sunny  glades  had  suddenly  vanished  ;  and  in 
doubling  the  tremendous  promontories  of  naked  rock,  projecting  into 
the  Gulf  of  Genoa,  we  were  pelted  with  bleak  winds  and  rain  from 
the  snowy  tops  of  the  Alps.  The  town  of  Finale  has  an  appropriate 
name  ;  for  it  appears  to  be  at  the  end  of  the  world.*  It  is  cradled 
between  two  mountains,  along  the  crags  of  which  the  path  runs,  whence 
the  eye  looks  down  a  precipice  of  more  than  a  thousand  feet,  upon 
the  little  vale  and  village  below.  The  descent  of  this  mountain 
seemed  hardly  possible,  before  it  was  undertaken,  and  quite  impossi- 
ble, on  looking  back  upon  the  serpentine  path  winding  down  the 
cliffs.  Poor  Sardo's  mettle  was  never  more  severely  put  to  the  test, 
than  in  sliding  down  these  declivities  on  one  side,  and  in  climbing  the 
paved  path  on  the  other.  The  latter  is  actually  so  steep,  that  ribs 
are  placed  transversely  to  furnish  steps  and  foot-hold  for  the  animals. 
In  many  places,  this  rude  terrace,  hanging  upon  the  chffs,  is  so  nar- 
row, that  two  horses  cannot  pass  abreast.  Happening  to  meet  an 
Englishman  this  morning,  we  were  all  obliged  to  dismount,  and  there 
was  as  much  manoeuvering  to  get  by,  as  between  two  boats  upon  a 
canal.  Sardo  was  a  stubborn  rogue,  not  very  courteous  in  his  man- 
ners, and  would  turn  aside  for  no  man. 


*  Sir  James  EJvvard  Smith  performed  the  journey  fiom  Port  Maurice  to  Finale 
on  foot,  treading  precipices,  wading  through  torrents,  and  sweetening  his  coarse 
fare  by  exercise.  "  No  part  of  my  whole  tour,"  he  remarks,  "  has  left  a  more 
pleasing  impression  than  this  walk.  Traversing  these  majestic  cliffs,  among 
groves  of  olive  and  carob  trees,  and  thickets  of  oleander  and  myrtle, 

'  I  felt  as  free  as  Nature  first  made  man, 
When  wild  in  woods  the  noble  savage  ran.' " 

His  account  of  the  country  between  Nice  and  Genoa  is  decidedly  the  best  I  have 
seen.  Indeed  the  observations  of  all  other  tourists,  which  have  come  to  my  know- 
ledge, are  extremely  meagre,  unworthy  of  one  of  the  most  romantic  districts  I 
have  ever  visited.  Most  travellers,  who  have  entered  Italy  by  this  route,  alarmed 
at  the  reputed  dangers  and  difficulties  of  a  passage  over  the  Maritime  Alps,  have 
injudiciously  taken  a  felucca  at  Nice,  and  traversed  the  coast  to  Genoa  by  water- 
thereby  losing  one  of  the  finest  portions  of  Italian  scenery,  for  the  sake  of  aroid- 
inj  a  few  inconveniences. 


40         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

Between  Finale  and  Noli,  the  country  becomes  still  more  broken 
and  savage  in  its  aspect.  The  Alps  here  push  their  lofty,  dark,  and 
craggy  precipices  into  the  Gulf,  forming  for  many  miles  a  series  of 
bleak  headlands,  and  an  iron-bound  shore.  Round  these  enormous 
piles  of  rock,  the  path,  even  in  its  present  rude  state,  has  been 
opened  at  an  immense  expense.  It  is  often  nothing  more  than  a  gal- 
lery hewn  from  the  clifls,  hundreds  of  feet  above  the  water,  and  fre- 
quently shelving,  so  that  the  traveller  hears  the  sea  beating  and  thun- 
dering beneath  his  feet  with  a  grandeur  absolutely  terrific.  In  one 
place,  the  road  pierces  a  precipice  for  the  distance  of  several  hundred 
yards,  forming  a  magnificent  arch  thirty  feet  high  and  twenty  wide. 
The  excavation  must  have  been  the  work  of  years.  I  am  sure  that 
no  part  of  the  Semplon  can  surpass  the  grandeur  of  this  gallery,  with 
a  superincumbent  mass  of  rocks  rising  to  the  height  of  a  thousand  feet 
above  the  arch,  and  the  waves  lashing  the  base  in  the  abyss  below. 
The  path  winding  round  these  frightful  bluffs  is  perfectly  desolate  and 
solitary.  Not  a  habitation  of  any  kind  is  to  be  seen,  and  even  the 
aspiring  olive  ceases  to  clothe  the  hills.  Here  and  there  the  gens 
(Varmcs  of  his  Sardinian  Majesty  are  found  stationed  along  the  road, 
just  in  sufficient  numbers  to  remind  one  of  danger.  A  line  of  them 
extends  from  Nice  to  Genoa.  They  are  armed  with  muskets,  and 
guard  the  most  unfrequented  passes  night  and  day.  They  do  not 
generally  manifest  a  remarkable  degree  of  vigilance.  In  some  in- 
stances, we  saw  them  sheltering  themselves  from  the  wind  and  rain 
under  the  rocks,  and  in  others,  basking  in  the  sun,  sleeping  upon 
their  posts  with  their  guns  by  their  sides.  It  becomes  us,  however,  to 
speak  well  of  them,  as  they  neither  molested  us  themselves,  nor  per- 
mitted others  to  molest  us. 

At  Noli  the  road  becomes  passable  with  carriages  to  Genoa  ;  but  as 
the  charges  for  coaches  are  exorbitant,  and  the  gentle  pace  of  our 
ponies  was  by  no  means  fatiguing,  Ave  concluded  to  retain  them  as  far  as 
Savone.  The  situation  of  Noli  resembles  that  of  Finale.  It  stands 
upon  the  sea-shore,  at  the  mouth  of  a  deep  gorge  opening  from  the 
Alps,  and  secluded  from  the  rest  of  the  world  by  an  amphitheatre  of 
mountains.  The  town  is  inhabited  almost  exclusively  by  fishermen, 
who  once  formed  a  little  Republic,  with  barren  hills  and  a  waste  of 
waters  for  their  only  dominions.  In  the  character  of  the  scenery, 
one  may  yet  trace  the  elements  of  their  hardy  enterprise,  indepen- 
dence, and  freedom.  The  head  of  the  Gulf  of  Genoa,  exposed  as  it 
is  to  sudden  and  violent  storms  from  the  mountains  which  surround  it, 
assumes  a  sterner  aspect  than  the  seas  that  bathe  the  sunny  shores  in 
the  vicinity  of  Nice,  and  is  well  fitted  for  a  nursery  of  hardy  seamen. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         41 

accustomed  from  infancy  to  buffet  winds  and  waves  to  gain  a  scanty 
subsistence.  In  our  ride  along  the  rocks  of  Noli  this  morning,  we 
aaw  the  little  boats  of  these  fishermen  dancing  fearlessly  among  the 
billows,  which  ran  so  high  as  often  to  conceal  them  in  the  trough  of 
the  sea.  Such  men,  habitually  familiar  with  hardships  and  dangers, 
with  few  wants,  an  equality  of  wealth,  and  no  luxuries  to  soften  and 
corrupt,  became  naturally  republicans,  arriving  at  freedom  and  inde- 
pendence as  a  consequence  of  their  habits,  rather  than  as  the  result 
of  any  deliberate  plans  of  policy.  It  is  much  easier  for  the  charac- 
ter of  a  nation  to  create  and  sustain  free  institutions,  than  for  those 
institutions  themselves  to  create  a  free  people.  This  remark  is  stri- 
kingly illustrated  by  the  history  of  our  own  Republic  and  of  the 
French  Revolution. 

We  reached  the  large  town  of  Savonc  at  about  noon,  and  after 
taking  some  refreshments  at  a  hotel,  where  the  landlord  and  waiters 
seemed  more  hungry  and  voracious  than  ourselves,  we  set  out  imme- 
diately in  the  Diligence  for  Genoa  ;  a  distance  of  something  more 
than  forty  miles.  The  road  is  excellent,  made  at  a  great  expense  on 
terraces,  by  the  side  of  the  sea,  which  it  often  overhangs,  with  one  or 
two  arched  galleries,  like  that  above  described.  It  traverses  many 
small  villages,  rising  along  the  shore,  presenting  picturesque  views  at 
a  distance,  but  mean  and  dirty  on  a  nearer  inspection.  The  number 
of  white  steeples,  everywhere  seen  on  the  route  from  Nice,  contri- 
butes largely  to  the  romantic  beauty  of  the  scenery.  In  descending 
into  one  of  the  retired  vales,  embosomed  in  the  Alps,  I  counted  not 
less  than  twelve  or  fifteen  in  sight  at  one  time,  though  the  whole 
population  probably  did  not  exceed  as  many  hundreds.  The  people 
of  this  district  appear  to  be  extremely  religious,  industrious,  yet  poor, 
small  in  stature,  rough  in  dress  and  appearance,  but  mild  and  inoffen- 
sive in  manners.  In  our  ride  this  afternoon,  we  met  thousands  of  tlie 
peasantry  flocking  to  the  churches  to  celebrate  one  of  their  great  fes- 
tivals. The  females  all  wore  upon  their  heads  a  sort  of  hood,  com- 
posed among  the  higher  classes  of  white  muslin  or  lace,  and  among 
the  lower  orders,  of  counterpane  or  calico.  It  is  bound  tight  about 
tlie  head,  and  descends  gracefully  upon  the  shoulders,  somewhat  like 
the  costume  of  the  ancient  Vestal  Virgins.  The  first  group  we  met, 
dressed  in  this  way,  were  ta.ken  for  nuns,  as  the  white  drapery,  without 
hats  or  ornaments  of  any  kind,  give  to  the  face  a  pale  and  demure 
look,  like  that  of  the  holy  sisterhood.  Subsequent  observation 
proved,  that  this  meek  and  comely  article  of  dress,  so  far  from  being 
confined  to  the  cloisters  of  a  convent,  is  the  universal  costume  of 
Genoese  females. 

VOL.  ir.  6 


42         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

At  6  o'clock,  on  a  bright  afternoon,  after  crossing  the  beds  of  one 
or  two  tremendous  torrents,  which  sweep  down  fi-om  the  Bochetta, 
and  after  passing  the  splendid  faubourg  of  San  Pierre  d' Arena,  bor- 
dered by  the  sea  on  one  side,  and  palaces  and  gardens  on  the  other, 
we  doubled  a  bold  promontory,  round  which  the  road  winds,  whence 
the  city  and  harbour  of  Genoa  all  at  once  burst  fully  upon  our  view. 
The  colossal,  picturesque  tower,  used  as  a  light-house,  rising  to  a 
giddy  height  from  the  crags  at  the  extremity  of  this  high  bluff — the 
two  immense  moles  jutting  out  from  either  shore,  and  nearly  inter- 
locking the  port — the  blue  waters  of  the  basin,  covered  with  vessels 
riding  at  anchor,  and  enlivened  by  the  busy  din  of  commerce — the 
town  itself,  in  all  its  architectural  grandeur,  Hfting  its  domes  and  bat- 
tlements in  the  form  of  an  amphitheatre  round  the  harbour — the  lofty 
semi-circular  ridges  of  the  Apennines,  overhanging  the  city,  with  their 
green  acchvities  sprinkled  with  white  buildings — presented  a  magnifi- 
cent panorama,  gilded  at  the  moment  of  our  entrance  with  the  beams 
of  the  setting  sun.  A  more  advantageous  and  prepossessing  picture 
of  Genoa,  splendid  as  its  outlines  are,  could  not  have  been  presented 
from  any  quarter,  as  our  subsequent  rambles  evinced  ;  nor  was  our 
ride  along  the  terrace  skirting  the  harbour,  and  thence  beneath  the 
ancient  barrier,  through  Strada  Balbi,  the  finest  street  in  the  city,  cal- 
culated to  weaken  our  first  impressions.  Haifa  dozen  Genoese  gen- 
tlemen in  the  coach,  who  had  said  little  during  the  afternoon,  ap- 
peared to  feel  a  just  degree  of  local  pride  in  pointing  out  for  the  ad- 
miration of  strangers  the  magnificence  of  their  city  ;  and  after  enter- 
ing the  faubourg  San  Pierre  d' Arena,  scarcely  an  object  of  interest 
was  permitted  to  escape  our  attention,  till  our  arrival  at  the  Hotel  de 
Yorck,  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  town.  At  one  moment  we  glided 
rapidly  under  the  arched  ramparts,  and  at  another  by  the  palace  of 
Andrew  Boria  ;  now  in  front  of  the  pillared  courts  of  the  University, 
or  along  the  magnificent  facade  of  the  Durazzo.  In  a  word,  the 
whole  street  is  lined  with  palaces,  and  in  architectural  grandeur  and 
beauty  can  scarcely  be  surpassed. 

Every  circumstance  conspired  on  the  day  of  our  arrival  to  give  us 
an  exaggerated  idea  of  Genoese  splendour.  On  entering  the  Ho- 
tel, wa  found  that  even  that  had  been  a  palace,  columns,  saloons,  and 
some  of  the  paintings  of  which  still  remained.  From  the  windows 
of  our  chambers,  the  eye  surveys  other  ranges  of  handsome  buildings, 
bordering  upon  the  Piazza  Annunziata,  and  forming  a  continuation  of 
the  Strada  Balbi.  But  the  Hotel  de  Yorck  possesses  attractions  of 
more  importance  to  the  traveller,  than  its  fine  situation,  or  its  claim  to 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         43 

the  honour  of  having  once  been  the  residence  of  Genoese  nobility. 
A  Swiss  emigrant  has  fitted  it  up  in  the  neatest  style  with  carpets  and 
other  fire-side  comforts  ;  and  it  is  without  exception  the  best,  as  well 
as  one  of  the  cheapest  hotels  we  have  found  upon  the  continent.  By 
an  odd  coincidence,  the  waiter  appointed  to  attend  us  had  passed  two 
or  three  years  of  his  life  in  Pearl-street,  New- York,  in  making  ma- 
caroni. 


44  LETTERS  F1103I  EUllOPE. 

LETTER  XLVIII. 

SKETCH    OF   GENOA — PRINCIPAL    STREETS ASPECT    OF    THE     TOWK 

HARBOUR MOLES  AND  DEFENCES ROYAL   NAVY ARRIVAL   OF   THE 

KING PALACES — PAINTINGS. 

March,  1826. 

On  the  morning  after  our  arrival,  a  valet-de-place  was  procured  to 
take  US  the  ordinarj'^  rounds,  and  show  us  the  wonders  of  the  town 
with  all  convenient  despatch.  The  first  hour's  walk  satisfied  us,  that 
the  finest  part  of  Genoa  had  already  been  seen.  Strada  Nuova  and 
Strada  Nuovissima  are  in  the  same  style  of  magnificence  as  the  Strada 
Balbi,  with  which  they  are  connected,  opening  a  wide  and  superb 
passage  through  nearly  the  whole  extent  of  the  city,  bordered  on  both 
sides  by  long  facades  of  palaces,  three  or  four  stories  high,  and  en- 
liched  with  the  several  orders  of  Grecian  architecture.  If  a  stranger 
should  merely  ride  through  these  three  streets,  and  make  his  exit  with- 
out farther  examination,  he  would  suppose  Genoa  to  be  one  of  the 
most  splendid  places  in  the  world.  But  the  moment  you  depart 
either  to  the  right  or  left  of  this  broad  and  beautiful  avenue,  you  are 
lost  in  an  inextricable  labyrinth  of  crooked,  dark,  dirty  lanes,  fined 
"with  gloomy  buildings,  four,  five,  or  six  stories  high,  often  nearly 
meeting  at  top,  utterly  excluding  the  rays  of  the  sun,  and  almost  the 
light  of  day.  A  mere  belt  of  the  blue  heavens  is  discernible  from 
the  depth  of  these  fissures,  in  fair  weather  ;  but  when  the  skies  are 
overcast,  the  gloom  is  intolerable.  The  width  of  these  streets,  if  such 
they  may  be  called,  does  not  generally  exceed  sLx  or  eight  feet,  a 
considerable  part  of  which  is  occupied  by  incumbrances  before  the 
shops  and  boutiques.  They  are  of  course  too  narrow  for  carriages, 
if  the  steepness  of  the  hills  on  which  Genoa  is  built  did  not  preclude 
such  a  mode  of  conveyance.  At  any  rate,  from  one  or  the  Other  of 
the  two  causes,  there  is  scarcely  a  street  in  the  city,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  three  above  named,  through  which  a  coach  or  cart 
can  pass.  The  consequence  is,  that  the  labour  generally  performed 
by  dumb  beasts  here  devolves  in  a  great  measure  upon  human  beings. 
Donkies  are  sometimes  put  in  requisition  ;  but  in  most  cases,  men  and 
women  themselves  stoop  to  the  burden,  carrying  enormous  loads,  and 
presenting  the  most  abject  and  revolting  pictures  of  servitude.  At 
one  time  you  see  gangs  of  galley-slaves,  chained  together,  with  their 
irons  clanking  upon  the  pavements,  attended  by  drivers,  and  staggering 
under  loadi?,  which  humane  masters  would  not  impose  upon  brutes  :  at 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  4*^ 

another  time,  two  men,  (often  iiifirm,  gray-headed,  old  men,  their 
limbs  trembling  with  age,)  are  seen  bearing  a  sedan  chair,  in  which  is 
seated  perhaps  some  fat,  bloated  nobleman,  some  lazy  ecclesiastic,  or 
wealthy  dandy,  who  is  afraid  of  soiling  his  pumps  and  silk  stockings. 
I  have  seen,  not  without  feelings  of  indignation  and  disgust,  the  King 
himself,  a  scjuab  of  a  monarch,  who  battens  upon  anchovies  and 
sugar-plums,*  together  with  his  royal  spouse  and  court  panders,  borne 
about  the  streets  of  Genoa,  in  processions,  by  the  degenerate,  de- 
graded descendants  of  Andrew  Doria,  and  his  high-spirited  republi- 
cans !  The  agricultural  toils  of  our  negroes  at  the  South,  however  .  /  y  v/ 
severe,  are  nothing  in  comparison  with  such  servile  offices.  Add  to 
these  groups  of  slaves  and  regal  pall-bearers,  doomed  to  carry  about 
inert  masses  of  flesh  and  blood,  the  innumerable  squads  of  royal 
guards,  parading  in  all  the  public  places  ;  long  processions  of  rosy- 
faced,  greasy  priests  and  monks,  "  leading  captive  silly  women,"  and 
eternally  bawling  the  "  orapro  nobis  ;"  troops  of  tattered,  squalid  beg- 
gars besetting  the  stranger  at  every  turn — put  all  these  items  to- 
gether, and  you  may  form  some  idea  of  the  streets  of  Genoa. 

With  the  view  of  obtaining  a  more  accurate  knowledge  of  the  out- 
lines of  the  city,  we  made  the  entire  circuit  of  the  Harbour,  which  is 
one  of  the  finest  imaginable,  except  that  its  entrance  is  too  much  ex- 
posed to  the  south-westerly  winds.  It  was  embosomed  naturally  by 
ranges  of  the  Apennines,  sweeping  round  it,  and  terminating  in  two 
high  capes,  inclining  towards  each  other,  as  they  project  into  the  Gulf. 
To  these  natural  defences  against  the  winds  and  waves,  have  been 
added  gigantic  works  of  art,  worthy  of  the  enterprising  spirit,  which 
characterised  the  Republic  at  the  period  of  their  construction.  From 
the  two  bluffs  forming  the  chops  of  the  channel,  immense  moles  com- 
posed of  consolidated  masses  of  rock,  and  impregnable  to  the  sea 
which  at  times  beats  against  them  with  violence,  have  been  extended 
towards  each  other,  so  as  to  leave  an  entrance  of  moderate  breadth, 
though  still  deemed  too  wide  for  the  stormy  character  of  this  part  of 
the  Mediterranean. 

Besides  these  colossal  barriers,  another  rampart  of  solid  masonry, 
thirty  or  forty  feet  in  height,  pierced  at  the  bottom  with  numerous 


*  A  respectable  citizen  of  Genoa  informed  us,  that  his  Sardinian  Majesty  is  so 
passionately  fond  of  sweet-meats  and  sugar-candy,  as  to  keep  a  boy  behind  him  at 
the  theatre,  on  purpose  to  supply  him  with  confectionary  during  the  play.  In 
such  cases  the  King,  when  he  wants  a  plum,  puts  his  hand  behind  his  back,  and 
the  lad  fills  it  with  lozenges  and  kisses,  without  a  word  being  spoken  !  I  have  no 
reason  to  doubt,  that  this  anecdote  is  founded  on  fact. 


4(J  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

large  arches  communicating  with  the  town,  and  wide  enough  at  the 
top  for  two  or  three  persons  to  walk  abreast,  sweeps  more  than  half 
way  round  the  port.  In  winter  it  forms  the  principal  promenade  of 
the  citizens,  being  guarded  by  walls  on  the  summit,  open  to  the  sun, 
sheltered  by  the  long  ranges  of  buildings  on  one  side,  and  bordered  on 
the  other  by  the  shipping  in  the  harbour.  At  the  time  of  our  visit,  the 
vernal  sun  was  by  no  means  ungrateful  in  the  fickle  and  rather  inhos- 
pitable climate  of  Genoa,  exposed  as  it  is  to  bleak  winds  from  the 
Alps  and  Apennines  ;  and  this  walk,  although  it  presented  nothing 
rural  save  the  nursling  plants  and  flowers  sunning  themselves  in  the 
windows  of  the  houses,  was  often  selected  for  exercise,  instead  of  the 
confined,  gloomy  alleys  of  the  town.  The  thoroughfare  at  the  base 
of  the  wall  on  the  left,  or  the  shifting  panorama  of  the  port  on  the 
right,  always  presented  something  new  for  observation.  Midway 
stands  a  long  range  of  buildings  appropriated  to  what  is  called  the 
Franc  Port.  They  are  all  numbered,  kept  under  lock  and  key,  and 
rigidly  guarded  by  public  ofiicers.  By  a  singular  regulation,  females, 
ecclesiastics,  and  the  military,  are  allowed  in  no  case  to  enter,  and  all 
other  persons  are  prohibited,  except  on  special  business.  Here  mer- 
chandise may  be  deposited  for  any  length  of  time,  and  reshipped  free 
of  duty,  the  proprietor  merely  paying  for  the  storage.  Many  of  the 
warehouses  are  owned  by  foreigners,  and  others  rented  by  the  govern- 
ment. This  establishment  is  said  to  have  conduced  greatly  to  the 
commercial  prosperity  of  Genoa.  In  the  same  neighbourhood  are  the 
barracks,  spacious  enough  to  accommodate  two  thousand  troops. 

At  the  junction  of  this  terrace  with  the  ancient  mole,  we  embarked 
in  a  boat,  and  completed  the  circuit  of  the  harbour,  gliding  among  the 
large  quantities  of  shipping  riding  at  anchor  in  the  basin.  Out  of 
several  hundred  vessels,  great  and  small,  not  a  single  American  deck 
was  to  be  seen,  and  the  boatman  thought  there  was  not  then  one  in 
port,  although  our  commerce  with  this  place  is  at  times  considera- 
ble. In  the  general  shock  of  the  mercantile  world,  our  trade  with 
the  Mediterranean  seems  to  have  decreased,  and  owing  to  this  or  other 
causes,  the  American  Consul  at  Genoa,  who  by  the  bye  is  an  Enghsh- 
man,  has  recently  failed  in  business.  Most  of  the  shipping  in  the 
harbour  appeared  to  be  coasters,  though  some  fifty  foreign  vessels 
^vere  lying  at  Quarantine,  near  the  Light-house.  There  has  been  a 
sad  decline  in  commercial  prosperity  since  the  proud  days  of  the  Re- 
public. 

One  of  the  finest  views  of  Genoa  is  obtained  from  the  water,  mid- 
way between  the  two  moles,  at  the  entrance  of  the  port ;  and  to  this 
point  the  boatman  was  requested  to  conduct  us,  where  our  little  bark 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        47 

rode  delightfully  upon  the  smooth  azure  swells  rolling  in  from  the 
Gulf.  The  position  is  in  the  centre  of  the  amphitheatre  of  hills,  at  the 
base  and  on  the  acclivities  of  which  the  city  is  built.  Nothing  can  be 
more  picturesque  and  magnificent,  than  the  crescent  of  white  edifices, 
crowned  with  domes  and  turrets,  encircling  the  port  with  a  graceful 
curve,  and  climbing  stage  above  stage  up  the  verdant  sides  of  the 
Apennines,  often  so  steep  as  to  require  flights  of  steps  in  ascending 
from  one  street  to  another.  Overtopping  the  whole,  are  seen  the  ram- 
parts of  the  city,  flanked  with  towers  and  fortresses,  extending  for  the 
distance  of  eight  or  ten  miles  over  the  summits  of  the  mountains. 
Several  chateaux,  churches,  and  convents  are  perched  upon  the 
heights  ;  but  a  considerable  part  of  the  area  enclosed  by  the  outer 
walls  is  a  waste  of  rocks  and  uncultivated  fields.  The  town  itself  is 
not  more  than  four  or  five  miles  in  circuit,  containing  about  80,000 
inhabitants.  Such  a  charming  picture  presented  itself  to  view  from 
this  point,  the  distance  concealing  all  meaner  features  in  the  streets 
and  houses,  that  some  reluctance  was  felt  to  dissolve  the  enchantment 
by  again  approaching  the  shore. 

On  debarking  from  this  excursion,  an  efi'ort  was  made  to  visit  tlin 
Royal  Navy-Yard,  which  was  open  to  the  passage  of  groups  of  galley 
slaves  ;  but  a  brace  of  sentinels  stationed  at  the  gate  thrust  us  back 
in  a  rude  manner,  informing  us  that  a  special  permit  emanating  from 
his  majesty  was  indispensable.  Our  principal  object  was  to  see  the 
beak  of  a  Roman  ship,  said  to  be  here  deposited  ;  but  the  trouble  and 
delay  of  suing  for  a  royal  passport  induced  us  to  abandon  a  second 
trial  for  admission.  The  naval  force  of  this  potent  monarch,  who  by 
the  grace  of  the  Holy  Alliance,  is  lord  of  a  portion  of  the  Alps  and 
of  the  Isles  of  the  Mediterranean,  consists  of  some  ten  or  fifteen 
ships  of  war,  the  largest  of  which  is  a  frigate.  Its  magnitude,  how- 
ever, far  transcends  the  capacity  of  its  master,  or  its  uses  to  the  state. 
The  only  powder  it  burns  is  wa.sted  in  birth-day  salutes,  on  the  festivals 
of  the  Virgin,  or  in  honour  of  the  arrival  or  departure  of  the  royal 
family. 

I  was  not  a  little  amused  with  the  uproar  which  this  formidable 
armament,  snugly  moored  under  the  lee  of  the  moles,  created  on  the 
great  occasion  of  the  arrival  of  the  king  and  his  court  from  his  good 
city  of  Turin,  which  divides  his  affections  and  favours  with  Genoa, 
each  in  turn  being  blest  with  his  royal  presence.  On  the  glorious  day 
of  his  return  to  the  embraces  of  his  second  love,  the  navy  of  his  Ma- 
jesty was  for  hours  in  a  blaze,  and  the  roar  of  cannon  echoed  through 
the  deepest  recesses  of  the  Alps  and  the  Apennines.  To  the  din  of 
broadsides,  were  added  the  merry  peals  of  bells,  with  the  accompani- 


AS  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

ments  of  drums  and  bugles,  the  rattling  of  carriages  and  the  tramp- 
ling of  steeds.  All  the  marmots  of  the  hills  and  the  anchovies  upon 
the  coast  must  have  been  astounded.  Certain  it  is,  that  the  whole 
town  was  in  commotion.  As  fate  would  have  it,  a  violent  gust  of 
wind  and  rain  descended  simultaneously  with  the  king  from  the  heights 
of  the  Bochetta  ;  but  he  thundered  on  in  his  coach  and  six  upon  the 
full  gallop,  unceremoniously  leaving  the  procession  of  courtiers  who 
went  to  meet  him,  far  in  the  rear,  and  without  a  salutation,  the  win- 
dows of  his  carriage  being  closed.  We  had  a  glance  at  him  and  his 
family,  as  they  alighted  at  the  gates  of  the  Palace,  and  took  sedans  to 
go  to  church,  for  the  purpose  of  offering  up  their  prayers  in  public. 
This  trifling  event  produced  as  strong  a  sensation  and  as  much  parade, 
as  if  another  Doria  had  set  the  nation  free.  It  is  proper  to  remark, 
however,  that  a  large  proportion  of  the  more  respectable  citizens  of 
Genoa  look  with  contempt  on  the  present  king,  and  cannot  forgive  the 
British  Government,  for  having  betrayed  their  alhes  into  such  hands. 
This  act  of  treachery  on  the  part  of  England  forms  one  of  the  blackest 
pages  of  its  history. 

So  numerous  are  the  Palaces  of  Genoa,  that  I  am  as  much  at  a  loss 
how  to  dispose  of  them  to  advantage,  as  have  been  some  of  their  no- 
ble, bankrupt,  poverty-stricken  proprietors,  since  the  sad  reverses  of 
their  fortunes  and  the  unhappy  revolutions  of  their  country.  The  con- 
tinuous fa9ades  of  these  gorgeous  piles,  stretching  along  both  sides  of 
the  Strada  Balbi,  Nuova,  and  Nuovissima,  have  perhaps  justly  called 
forth  the  admiration  of  all  travellers,  even  after  having  seen  the  rest  of 
Italy.  Eustace  prefers  them  to  the  same  description  of  edifices  at 
Naples,  Rome,  or  Florence.  Lady  Morgan,  in  one  of  the  poetic, 
truth-stretching  flights  of  her  imagination,  converts  them  into  ruins 
and  gilds  them  with  moon-beams.  The  author  of  Corinne,  the  ro- 
mantic, grandiloquent  Corinne,  during  her  residence  at  this  place,  used 
to  say  that  these  three  streets,  "  seemed  to  have  been  built  for  a  con- 
gress of  kings  ;"  a  most  ungallant  compliment  by  the  bye  to  the  quon- 
dam repubhcans  of  Genoa,  especially  at  a  juncture,  when  a  Congress 
of  Kings  had  actually  taken  possession  of  the  whole  state,  and  had 
quartered  one  of  their  creatures  in  the  halls  of  the  Durazzo  !  How- 
ever, the  Genoese  took  the  pompous  exclamation  in  good  part,  and 
cicerones  occasionally  throw  it  out  by  way  of  heightening  the  admira- 
tion of  tourists. 

But  we  have  set  out  to  visit  the  Palaces  ;  and  to  the  Palaces  let  us 
go  without  further  ceremony,  as  soon  as  we  'can  effect  a  passage 
through  the  swarms  of  beggars,  who  like  cormorants  hover  round  the 
floors,  with  the  plausible  importunity,  that  whoever  can  aflTord  to  pay 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         49 

a  franc  for  a  show  can  also  afford  to  drop  a  sous  for  the  relief  of  decre- 
pitude and  penury.  There  are  not  less  than  forty  palaces  upon  the 
lists  of  the  valets-de-place  ;  and  in  the  eagerness  of  novices,  who  had 
just  entered  upon  the  routine  of  sight-seeing  at  the  threshold  of  Italy, 
we  went  the  rounds  of  nearly  the  whole  number,  sweeping  indiscrimi- 
nately whatever  fell  in  our  way.  But  let  not  my  readers  recoil  with 
the  apprehension,  that  I  am  about  to  conduct  them  through  desolate 
corridors,  over  acres  of  tiled  floors,  stuccoed  walls,  and  frescoed  ceil- 
ings. The  American  motto  of  "  e  plurihus  imum"  must  be  my  guide 
in  speaking  of  the  multifarious  works  of  art  in  Italy. 

The  most  interesting  of  the  Genoese  palaces,  as  well  from  its  posi- 
tion as  from  its  associations,  is  that  of  the  Prince  D'Oria  Panfili,  once 
the  residence  of  Andrew  Doria,  the  Liberator  of  his  country  ;  of  Charles 
the  Vth  during  his  visit  to  Genoa  ;  and  subsequently  of  Napoleon, 
who  seems  to  have  been  the  last  imperial  tenant  of  its  shattered  walls. 
From  the  contagion  and  odium  of  his  name,  perhaps,  with  the  present 
legitimate  proprietor,  who  is   high  in  the  favour  of  liis  Holiness  the 
Pope,  being  Secretary  of  the  Papal   State,  and  who  has  emigrated  to 
Mount  Janiculum  at  Rome,  it  has  been  suffered  to  fall  into  its  ruinous 
condition,  and  will  probably  never  be  repaired.     It  is  delightfully  situ- 
ated, without  the  gate  of  St.  Thomas,  on  the  avenue   leading  to  the 
Lighthouse  along  which  it  extends  600  feet,  at  the  very  base  of  the 
Apennines,  rising  with  inaccessible  acclivities  to  the  north.    The  other 
facade  looks  immediately  upon  the  city,  the  port,  and  the  sea — upon 
that  city  which  the  patriot  chief  had  emancipated,  and  upon  that  ele- 
ment, amidst  the  storms  and  perils  of  which  he  had  acquired  his  re- 
nown.    Between  the  Palace  and  the  Harbour,  there  is  barely  room  for 
a  garden,  against  the  terraces  of  which  the  waves  beat  and  echo  through 
deserted  halls.     A  few  mutilated  and  weather-beaten  statues  about 
the  fountain,  over  which  Andrew  Doria  once  presided  in  the  character 
of  Neptune — a  few  evergreens  bordering  untrodden  alleys,  with  here 
and  there  a  flower  left  to  spring  and  bloom  without  culture,  are  the 
only  remains  of  former  splendour.     But  even  in  ruins,  this  Palace 
possesses  a  charm  beyond  any  of  its  splendid  rivals ;  and  while  im- 
patience hurried  us  through  gilded  saloons,  we  lingered  long  in  the 
dilapidated  arcades  of  the  Doria.     It  was  originally  finished  and  orna- 
mented in  a  style  of  much  greater  simplicity  than  any  of  its  neighbours. 
Two  Doric  columns  adorn  its  unassuming  entrance.     Its  decorations 
were  suited  to  the  character  of  its  illustrious  tenant.     On  its  ceilings 
were  portrayed  the  triumphs  of  Scipio,  the  shipwreck  of  iEneas,  and 
the  wars  of  Jove  with  the  Titans.     Along  the  side  of  the  mountain, 
and  above  the  road,  ran  a  terrace  250  feet  in  length,  and  covered  at 

VOL.  II.  7 


50         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

fop,  designed  for  a  walk  in  unpleasant  weather.  This  also  is  in  ruins. 
In  a  word,  this  neglected  edifice  furnishes  too  striking  an  emblem  of 
the  wreck  of  that  country,  which  the  prowess  of  the  hero  set  free,  as 
well  as  of  the  family  who  inherit  his  name,  without  any  of  his  patriot- 
ism and  public  virtue. 

The  Ducal  Palace  ranks  next  in  point  of  interest,  having  been  the 
residence  of  the  Doges  and  the  seat  of  the  Senate  for  several  centuries. 
It  stands  upon  one  of  the  pubhc  squares,  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  and 
presents   a   lofty,  majestic  front,  enriched  with  three  orders  of  archi- 
tecture, the  basement  being  Doric,  the  second  story  Ionic,  and  the 
third  Corinthian,  which  may  be  considered  the  happiest  combination, 
proceeding  from  strength  to  beauty.     Severe  criticism  might  perhaps 
deem  the  fa9ade  too  much  broken,  and  too  much  loaded  with  orna- 
ment, especially  for  a  public  building  of  this  description,  which  ought 
to  be  characterized  by  a  noble  simphcity.     The  vestibule  supported  by 
eighty  columns  of  marble,  and  the  stair-way  mounting  by  a  magnificent 
flight  of  steps,  fortn-a  suitable  entrance  to  the  great  hall  of  the  Senate, 
which  is  150  feet  in  length,  60  in  breadth,  and  70  in  height.     Round 
its  walls  are  niches  filled  with  statues,  which  are  all  draped  with  white 
linen.     Here  the  Senate  and  the  Doge  convened  to  enact  laws  for  the 
Republic,  till  Napoleon  entered  and  prorogued  the  body  sine  die.     An 
anecdote  is  told  of  the  French,  which  I  was  unwilling  to  believe,  but 
which  appears   to  be  well  authenticated — that  on  their  approach  to 
this  venerable  pile,  they  threw  down  and  dashed  to  pieces  a  statue  of 
Andrew  Doria,  which  stood  on  the  area  in  front  of  the  Palace  !     Ad- 
joining the  great  hall  is  another  apartment  designed  for  consultation, 
less  grand  in  its  dimensions,  though  not  less  elegantly  finished  than  the 
other.     Before  the  great  fire  of  1777,  by  which  the  building  was  near- 
ly destroyed,  its  decorations  were  suited  to  the  dignity  of  the  edifice. 
The  naval  achievements  of  the  Republic  ;  its  victories  over  the  Pisans  ; 
its  chivalrous  deeds  in  the  East ;  and  the  landing  of  its  own  Columbus 
in  the  New  World,  were  delineated  upon  the  walls.     These  ornaments 
have  as  far  as  practicable  been  restored  ;  but  the  charm  which  time 
and  association  impart,  is  in  a  great  measure  dissolved,  occupied  as 
the  halls  now  are  by  the  creatures  of  the  present  government. 

Among  the  double  score  of  other  Palaces,  there  is  little  to  choose 
in  point  of  attraction.  Each  has  some  pecuhar  feature,  set  off  to  the 
best  advantage  by  the  cosmetics  of  cicerones,  to  stimulate  the  curiosi- 
ty of  the  tourist.  All  of  them  are  rather  interesting  as  specimens  of 
architecture,  and  as  depositories  of  the  fine  arts,  than  from  any  histori- 
cal or  personal  associations.  Of  the  Durazzos  and  Brignoles,  the  Spi- 
nolas  and  Cambiasos,  the  original  proprietors  who  once  figured  as 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  51 

Doges  and  Counsellors  of  state,  few  traces  now  remain,  save  long  lines 
of  dusty  family  portraits,  suspended  from  the  walls.  The  splendid 
groups  of  Genoese  palaces  inculcate  a  political  lesson,  and  furnish  a 
striking  illustration  of  the  position  so  eloquently  maintained  by  one  of 
our  countrymen* — that  free  governments  are  as  favourable  to  the  cul- 
tivation of  the  fine  arts  as  are  aristocracies,  monarchies,  or  despotisms. 
Nearly  all  these  sumptuous  piles  were  reared  and  filled  with  galleries 
of  pictures  during  the  golden  age  of  the  Republic,  by  private  indivi- 
duals who  acquired  their  wealth  by  enterprise  and  commercial  pros- 
perity. Already  stripped  of  many  of  their  embellishments,  they  are 
now  sinking  into  decay  under  the  patronage  of  the  present  sovereign  ! 
Enterprise,  genius,  and  taste  have  been  paralyzed  by  th^.  touch  of  a 
leaden  sceptre  ;  and  a  falling  state,  the  decline  of  industry,  the  pro- 
stration of  the  arts,  furnish  a  sad  commentary  on  the  encouragement 
to  be  looked  for  from  legitimate  courts. 

But  to  return  from  this  digression  :  the  Palaces  of  Genoa  are  gene- 
rally uniform  in  their  outlines,  two,  three  and  four  stories  high,  inclu- 
ding the  attics,  with  spacious  courts  and  sometimes  a  garden,  a  pro- 
fusion of  marble  pillars  in  the  best  taste,  and  almost  always  superb  flights 
of  steps,  leading  ollen  to  dirty,  dark,  and  desolate  suites  of  apartments, 
inhabited  by  any  body  but  noblemen,  and  exhibiting  any  thing  but 
neatness  or  comfort.  The  largest  of  these  proud  structures  is  the 
Durazzo,  the  front  of  which  stretches  between  three  and  four  hundred 
feet  along  the  Strada  Balbi,  and  presenting  one  of  the  richest  facades 
I  have  ever  seen.  One  evening  during  our  visit,  it  was  illuminated 
with  coloured  lamps,  exhibiting  a  spectacle  brilliant  beyond  descrip- 
tion. Its  portals  are  adorned  with  four  Doric  pillars  of  white  marble, 
and  the  court  and  stair-way  can  scarcely  be  surpassed  in  magnificence. 
Having  a  curiosity  to  see  the  theatre  where  his  Majesty  munches  his 
candy,  and  above  all,  the  library,  whence  he  draws  those  profound  les- 
sons of  political  wisdom  for  the  government  of  a  mighty  empire,  stretcli- 
ing  from  the  Alps  to  the  Orient,  from  Mont  Blanc  to  Jerusalem,!  we 
sought  admission  to  the  halls  of  the  Durazzo.  But  "  Carle,  now  the 
King  has  come  ;"  and  what  favours  could  untitled  republicans  expect 
at  the  hands  of  such  an  august  sovereign  ?  Less  liberal  than  the  Eng- 
lish nobility,  his  superiors  in  character  and  fortune,  and  unlike  one  of 
his  masters,  the  King  of  France,  he  sutlers  no  foreign  foot  to  profane 
his  carpets,  and  no  plebeian  crowds  to  see  him  eat — save  only  his  sweet- 
meats in  the  opera  box  ! 


*  Professor  Everett,  ia  his  Oration  before  tiie  I'lii  Beta  Kappa  Society,  at  Hur- 
vard  University,  iu  1824. 

t  One  of  the  titles  of  this  monarch  is  "  Kin*  of  Jerusalem.*' 


52         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

To  the  otlier  palaces  we  found  easy  access,  and  were  permitted  to 
range  wherever  inclination  listed,  through  saloons  and  bed-chambers, 
dining-halls  and  dressing-rooms.  Out  of  the  number  to  which  the 
valet-de-place  conducted  us  in  rapid  succession,  I  select  for  a  more 
particular  notice  the  Brignole,  called  by  way  of  distinction  the  Pa- 
lais Rouge,  on  account  of  its  exterior  being  painted  of  a  palish  red  co- 
lour. In  this  selection  I  am  governed  less  by  the  grandeur  of  its  pro- 
portions, the  beauty  of  its  architecture,  and  the  splendour  of  its  apart- 
ments, than  by  its  gallery  of  paintings,  which  is  one  of  the  richest  and 
most  extensive  in  Genoa.  It  is  of  a  square  form  fronting  upon  the 
Strada  Nuova.  Its  porch  is  ador^ied  with  fourteen  Doric  pillars  of 
white  marblf,  and  its  broad  flight  of  steps  is  of  the  same  material. 
The  collection  of  pictures  fills  twenty-one  rooms,  and  embraces  some 
of  the  finest  productions  of  the  great  Italian  masters. 

Instead  of  pursuing  the  safe  and  beaten  track  of  other  tourists,  in 
designating  the  most  remarkable  and  the  most  interesting  of  such  a 
multitude,  I  shall  adopt  the  more  hazardous  course  of  attempting  a 
sort  of  analysis  of  the  gallery,  which  may  be  taken  as  a  sample  of  the 
other  collections  at  Genoa,  and  of  offering  some  general  remarks  upon 
the  nature  of  the  subjects  rather  than  upon  the  works  themselves. 
For  a  perfect  novice  in  vcrtu,  educated  in  what  a  European  at  least 
would  consider  the  wilds  of  America,  unschooled  in  the  fine  arts,  and 
making  not  the  slightest  pretensions  to  the  taste  of  a  connoisseur,  to 
venture  upon  such  topics  at  the  threshold  of  Italy  may  manifest  no  small 
degree  of  presumption  and  hardihood.  But  what  is  the  use  of  travel- 
ling, if  one  dares  not  observe,  think,  and  speak  for  himself  ? 

Out  of  the  two  hundred  articles  in  this  collection,  there  are  but  three 
historical  pictures,  and  half  a  dozen  pieces  of  landscape,  none  of  which 
have  the  remotest  relation  to  the  splendid  scenery  or  the  eventful  story 
of  the  country.  With  the  exception  of  a  group  of  family  portraits, 
chiefly  by  Vandyke,  and  here  and  there  a  head  by  other  artists,  all  the 
rest  are  illustrative  of  the  religion  of  the  Church  of  Rome,  and  of  the 
scarcely  less  elevated  system  of  the  Heathen  Mythology,  upon  which 
the  former  in  many  instances  seems  to  have  been  ingrafted.  The  gallery 
contains  not  less  than  twenty  copies  of  the  Madonna  and  her  child,  in 
all  possible  attitudes,  with  saints,  martyrs,  and  miracle-workers  without 
number.  If  the  artists  had  confined  themselves  to  illustrations  of  appro- 
priate passages  of  the  Holy  Scriptures,  the  beautiful  productions  of 
their  pencils  might  have  tended  to  instruct  as  well  as  delight  mankind. 
But  their  imaginations  have  wantoned  in  unrestricted  licentiousness  ; 
and  instead  of  elevating  the  feelings  and  affections  of  mortals  to  the 
skies,  they  have  too  often  dragged  religion  down  to  earth,  and,  like 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  r>3 

the  fablefe  of  the  ancient  poets,  mingled  gods  with  men.  Not  only 
have  they  attempted  to  portray  the  Virgin,  giving  her  perhaps  the  fea- 
tures of  some  favourite  mistress,  with  angels  hovering  around  in  the 
guise  of  Cupids ;  not  only  have  they  ventured  to  represent  the  Holy 
Ghost  in  a  material  form,  and  the  Saviour  in  all  his  divine  ministra- 
tions, from  the  cradle  to  the  cross,  efforts  sufficiently  bold  for  the  de- 
lineations of  the  pencil  ;  but  they  have  dared  to  approach  the  throne 
of  the  Eternal  Father  himself,  and  to  clothe  him  with  human  attri- 
butes. One  of  the  descriptions  of  the  gallery  has  the  following  fa- 
miliar designation  :  "  Le  Fere  Eterncl  avec  VEnfant  Jesus,  du  Guer- 
cino  da  Cento  ;"  and  you  see  an  attempted  image  of  the  Deity  and 
the  Son  of  God,  in  the  shape  of  a  bearded  old  man  dandling  and 
caressiiig  his  child,  while  some  flippant  cicerone  speaks  with  the  same 
lightness  of  the  costume,  expression,  or  colouring,  as  in  criticising  a 
neighbouring  Venus  or  Bacchus.  However  high  may  be  the  concep- 
tions of  the  artist,  his  pnncil  must  necessarily  degrade  such  a  subject ; 
and  the  spectator  turns  away  with  horror  and  disgust.  If  the  fine  arts 
are  ever  destined  to  flourish  in  our  own  country,  I  hope  they  may 
never  assume  this  familiarity  with  sacred  subjects,  but  leave  religion, 
as  it  now  is,  all  intellectual  and  spiritual,  incapable  of  being  represent- 
ed by  sensible  objects,  without  at  the  same  time  being  debased. 

In  examining  this  and  other  collections  of  pictures,  another  viola- 
tion of  correct  taste,  in  the  choice  of  subjects,  struck  me  as  equally 
obvious.  Descriptive  poetry,  painting,  and  scenic  representations  are 
kindred  arts  ;  and  to  each  the  same  great  principles  of  criticism  will 
apply.  In  reading  an  epic,  in  listening  to  a  tragedy,  or  in  contempla- 
ting a  picture,  a  state  of  the  mind  called  ideal  presence  is  supposed  to 
exist ;  and  no  scene  or  object  can  with  propriety  be  introduced,  which 
would  shock  or  disgust  a  real  spectator.  This  rule  is  almost  as  old  as 
the  arts  themselves,  and  as  fixed  as  it  can  be  rendered  by  tlic  highest 
classical  authorities.  Vulgar  curiosity  alone  can  be  delighted  with 
atrocious  spectacles  and  representations  of  brutal  violence,  however 
tragical  they  m.iy  be. 

Let  us  for  a  moment  apply  these  principles  to  numerous  pictures 
f^nd  in  this  and  every  other  gallery  at  Genoa,  as  well  as  in  all  the 
churches.  In  one  group,  are  St.  Sebastian  with  the  arrows  piercing 
liis  naked  body  ;  by  Guido — St.  Thomas  thrusting  his  hand  into  the 
bleeding  wounds  of  the  Saviour  ;  by  Cappucino — Cato  running  a 
sword  through  his  own  body  ;  by  Guercino.  As  if  one  copy  of  this 
last  were  not  sufficient,  a  duplicate  is  found  in  another  part  of  the  col- 
lection. Again,  you  find  Judith  in  an  air  of  triumph  presenting  to  a 
slave  the  reeking  head  of  Ilolofcrncs,  which  she  has  just  dissevered. 


54         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

and  which  she  grasps  by  the  clotted  hair ;  from  the  pencil  of  Paul  Ve- 
ronese— A  man  holding  serpents  in  his  hands  ;  by  Manfredi — Cleo- 
patra with  the  asp  fastened  on  her  naked  bosom,  and  her  features  dis- 
torted with  the  agonies  of  death  ;  by  Guercino — The  scourging  of  the 
Saviour,  with  the  blood  streaming  from  his  back  ;  by  Castello.  In 
short,  these  images  of  unnatural  crimes  and  savage  cruelties  meet  you 
at  every  turn.  Now,  to  bring  these  works  to  the  test — would  any  of 
the  above  spectacles  be  tolerated  upon  the  stage,  before  a  refined  au- 
dience ?  How  has  Mr.  Addison  disposed  of  this  same  Cato  ?  He 
makes  him  perpetrate  the  bloody  deed  in  the  seclusion  of  his  own  closet, 
and  when  the  news  of  the  shocking  catastrophe  is  brought  to  Lucius, 
he  very  properly  exclaims  : 

"  Oh  Fortius, 
Hide  all  the  horrors  of  thy  mournful  tale. 
And  let  us  guess  the  rest .'" 

But  to  bring  the  subject  still  more  directly  home  to  the  feelings,  would 
any  person  of  ordinary  taste  willingly  be  an  actual  spectator  of  the 
scenes  portrayed  in  any  one  of  the  above  mentioned  pictures  ?  and  if 
not,  how  can  he  contemplate  the  delineation  of  them  with  compla- 
cency ?  So  far  as  the  representation  falls  short  of  the  reality,  the 
painting  is  defective  and  fails  in  its  object ;  and  so  far  as  it  approxi- 
mates to  the  reality,  it  becomes  shocking. 

With  regard  to  my  own  feelings,  the  foregoing  objections  are  well 
grounded  ;  and  almost  the  only  pleasure  derived  from  an  examination 
of  these  splendid  collections  of  pictures  consisted  in  an  admiration  of 
the  imitative  powers  and  wonderful  skill  of  the  artists — a  pleasure 
subordinate  and  mean  in  comparison  with  the  ennobling  sentiments 
inspired  by  the  subject.  Mr.  Eustace  in  his  Classical  Tour, remarks, 
that  the  history  of  Genoa  abounds  in  poetical  incidents,  and  he  ex- 
presses his  surprise  that  no  native  bards  have  arisen  to  weave  them 
into  song.  With  how  much  more  propriety  may  this  remark  be  ap- 
plied to  the  kindred  department  of  painting,  in  which  Genoese  artists, 
both  in  number  and  reputation,  hold  a  respectable  rank  ?  But  by  a 
fault  too  common  with  men  of  genius,  they  have  looked  any  where  ex- 
cept at  home  for  subjects,  and  wasted  on  Madonnas,  saints,  and  mar- 
tyrs, talents  which  ought  to  have  been  employed  in  illustrating  the  his- 
torical events  and  picturesque  scenery  of  their  own  country.  In  the 
12th  century  Genoa  fitted  out  a  fleet  of  forty  gallies  in  the  first  Cru- 
sade, and  one  of  its  native  citizens,  Guillaume  Embriaco,  was  Admi- 
ral of  the  whole  naval  armaments  of  Europe  destined  to  the  Holy 
Land.     What  a  field  is  here  open  to  the  artist  !     Every  incident  in 


LETTERS  FROIM  EUROPE.  55 

that  expedition  is  the  very  essence  of  poetry  and  romance.  Tlie  im- 
agination might  revel  amidst  the  splendour  and  luxury  of  oriental  man- 
ners, the  battles  and  feasts  of  knights,  and  chivalrous  deeds  for  glory  or 
love.  In  the  scarcely  less  romantic  adventures  of  Columbus — in  his 
embarkations  and  debarkations — in  his  interviews  alternately  with 
sovereiijns  and  savages — his  successes  and  reverses  of  fortune — his 
triumphs  and  his  chains,  the  finest  scenes  are  presented  to  the  choice 
of  the  artist.  To  all  these  may  be  added  the  wars  of  the  Genoese  with 
the  Gotiis,  the  Saracens,  and  the  Venetians,  together  with  the  eiiianci- 
pation  of  the  country  in  the  1 6th  century,  through  the  influence  of 
Andrew  Doria.  Could  subjects  better  adapted  to  the  pencil  be  found 
in  any  country  ?  and  yet  not  a  picture  of  the  kind  is  to  be  met  with  in 
any  of  the  galleries  at  Genoa  ;  a  dereliction  not  less  from  taste  than 
from  patriotism,  which  fills  the  stranger  with  surprise  and  regret. 

The  Serra  Palace  in  the  Strada  Nuova,  is  such  a  perfect  unique, 
and  so  remarkable  for  its  sumptuousness,  that  it  would  be  unpardona- 
ble to  pass  it  over  in  utter  silence.  Two  of  the  apartments  in  particular, 
the  dining-room  and  saloon,  are  entirely  peculiar  in  construction,  and 
the  luxury  of  the  east  can  scarcely  surpass  them  in  splendour.  They 
are  the  works  of  rival  artists,  the  former  by  an  Italian,  and  the  latter 
by  a  Frenchman,  who  had  the  wealth  of  the  Serra  family  at  command, 
and  squandered  it  without  limitation.  It  is  said  that  only  one  of  these 
rooms,  of  the  ordinary  size,  cost  a  million  francs.  Both  are  as  rich  as 
they  can  be  rendered  by  gold  and  precious  stones.  In  brilliancy  the 
Frenchman  has  far  surpassed  his  Italian  competitor,  and  the  celebrated 
traveller  Dupaty  has  not  inappropriately  termed  this  saloon  the  Pa- 
lace of  the  Sun.  The  supplement  to  the  French  Encyclopedia  has 
given  drawings  of  all  its  sides,  and  pronounces  the  work  unequalled 
by  any  thing  of  the  kind,  in  the  elegance  of  its  proportions,  the  rich- 
ness of  its  ornaments,  its  gildings,  mirrors,  chandeliers,  tapestry,  and 
other  furniture.  Between  the  fluted  Corinthian  pillars  of  Parian  mar- 
ble, embossed  with  massive  gold,  are  placed  sheets  of  mirror,  forming 
the  entire  walls,  and  multiplying  the  splendid  objects  in  the  room  a 
thousand  times.  On  whichever  side  the  spectator  turns,  his  eye  is 
absolutely  dazzled  and  bewildered  by  the  painful  brilliancy  of  the  spec- 
tacle. When  tiie  whole  is  lighted  up  by  the  numerous  chandeliers, 
sparkling  with  rainbow  hues,  the  degree  of  eflTulgence  must  be  insup- 
portable. 

The  last  of  the  Genoese  palaces,  with  which  I  shall  trouble  my  read- 
ers, is  in  perfect  contrast  with  the  Serra.  It  belongs  to  the  Marquis 
di  Negro,  and  is  seated  on  an  eminence,  near  the  ancient  ramparts, 
commanding  a  delightful  prospect  of  the  city  and  harbour.     Our  prin- 


56         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

cipal  object  in  visiting  it  was  the  spacious  garden,  laid  out  in  the  Eng- 
lish f-tyle,  filled  with  evergreens,  shrubs,  and  plants,  embellished  with 
fountains,  and  adorned  with  busts  of  distinguished  men.  Over  the  en- 
trance is  an  inscription  in  Latin,  the  purport  of  which  is  as  follows  : — 
'■'•  To  the  ambitious  many  things  are  wanting — God  has  satisfied  the 
moderate  wishes  of  di  Negro."  The  sentiment  contained  in  this  motto 
and  the  simplicity,  neatness,  and  taste,  which  this  charming  retirement 
displays,  prepossessed  us  very  strongly  in  favour  of  the  proprietor,  who 
is  a  literary  gentleman,  and  has  spent  ten  years  of  his  life  in  travelling. 
He  was  absent  at  the  time  of  our  visit ;  but  his  quiet  retreat,  his  libra- 
ry, ancTthe  poetical  work  on  a  religious  subject,  in  which  he  is  at  pre- 
sent engaged,  were  shown  to  us  by  the  gardener.  These  sequestered 
shades,  elevated  by  the  Apennines  above  the  noise  and  bustle  of  the 
town,  and  consecrated  to  learned  ease,  present  far  stronger  attractions 
than  the  gorgeous  piles  of  the  Strada  Nuova. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         57 

LETTER  XLIX. 

GENOA   CONTINUED UNIVERSITY HOSPITALS CUURCHES CATHE- 
DRAL— ST.  MATHEW's ST.  STEPHEN'S ST.  MARIA ANNUNZIATA — 

CEREMONIES   OF    HOLV    WEEK KINg's    BIRTH-DAY PUBLIC   AMUSE- 
MENTS  MANUFACTURES ALBARO BIRTH-PLACE  OF  COLUMBUS. 

April,  182G. 

The  University  at  Genoa  occupies  one  of  the  most  splendid  palaces 
in  the  Strada  Balbi,  presenting  a  noble  front  to  the  street.  It  is  three 
stories  high,  enriched  with  a  suitable  proportion  of  marble  pillars.  The 
portals  are  of  the  Tuscan  order,  guarded  by  two  lions.  A  terrace  on 
one  side  of  the  court,  crowned  with  plants  and  flowers,  gives  the  en- 
trance a  cheerful  appearance.  The  apartments,  though  sufliciently 
spacious,  by  no  means  correspond  with  the  exterior  in  grandeur.  Their 
walls  are  hung  with  pictures  all  of  a  religious  cast,  and  not  very  cele- 
brated as  specimens  of  the  arts.  A  large  library,  rich  in  the  various 
departments  of  learning,  and  a  botanical  garden,  are  among  the  ap- 
purtenances of  the  institution.  The  Janitor  conducted  us  through  the 
room  appropriated  to  Natural  Philosophy,  and  showed  us  the  appara- 
tus, tolerably  complete  ;  as  also  through  the  INluseuin  ot  INatuial  His- 
tory, which  is  small  and  unimportant  compared  with  those  of  France. 
In  short,  the  interior  of  the  University  contains  few  objects  worthy  of 
notice.  The  number  of  Professors  is  twenty-four — in  the  faculties  of 
law  and  theology,  four  each  ;  in  the  medical  department,  seven  ;  and  in 
the  sciences  and  belles-letters,  nine.  Ample  provision  appears  to  be 
made  at  Genoa  for  public  instruction.  Besides  the  University,  there 
is  a  Royal  College  ;  an  Academy  for  architecture,  painting  and  sculp- 
ture ;  a  school  for  the  deaf  and  dumb  ;  and  three  public  libraries.  A 
gentleman  to  whom  we  took  letters  of  introduction,  and  from  whom 
we  received  every  attention  which  hospitality  could  require,  introdu- 
ced us  to  a  large  Reading  Room,  containing  the  English  and  French 
papers,  together  with  the  periodicals  and  new  publications,  among 
which  several  from  our  own  country  were  observed. 

The  charitable  institutions  of  Genoa  reflect  the  highest  credit  upon 
the  humanity  and  munificence  of  its  citizens.  We  visited  the  two 
principal  Hospitals,  the  Albergo  de'  Poveri  and  the  Albergo  Grande, 
which  in  extent  and  arrangement  call  forth  the  unqualified  admiration 
of  the  traveller.  The  former  is  situated  without  the  old  walls,  in  a 
sunny  vale  opening  from  the  Apennines,  and  approached  by  a  broad 
avenue,  bordered  with  groves  of  ilex.     It  is  a  grand,  but  somewhat 

VOL.  II.  8 


5S         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

irregular  pile  of  buildings,  sufficiently  spacious  to  accommodate  2200 
persons.  The  vestibule  is  decorated  with  marble  colunms,  and  filled 
with  the  statues  of  some  of  the  principal  benefactors  to  the  institution 
In  ascending  the  noble  flight  of  steps,  one  would  suppose  he  was  en- 
tering the  palace  of  a  king,  instead  of  a  poor-house.  Over  the  en- 
trance are  inscribed  the  words  of  Solomon,  which  were  never  quoted 
with  more  propriety — "  Nor  say  there  is  no  Providence."  In  the  in- 
terior there  is  a  pretty  chapel,  containing  among  other  embellish- 
ments, the  celebrated  bas-relief  in  white  marble  of  the  Virgin  sup- 
porting on  her  bosom  the  dead  Saviour,  by  Michael  Angelo,  and 
reckoned  among  his  finest  productions.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  af- 
fecting simplicity  of  the  design,  or  the  beauty  of  the  execution.  The 
present  number  of  inmates  in  this  Hospital,  or  rather  Work-House,  is 
1700,  of  whom  600  are  males,  and  1200  females,  chiefly  young  per- 
sons, who  are  here  clothed,  fed,  and  educated.  They  are  employed 
in  manufactures  and  the  mechanic  arts  of  various  kinds.  The  super- 
intendent conducted  us  through  the  long  ranges  of  workshops,  pre- 
senting a  pretty  scene  of  cheerful  industry. 

The  Grand  Hospital  is  upon  a  still  more  extended  scale.  Its  di- 
mensions are  something  like  400  feet  square,  being  the  largest  build- 
ing in  the  city.  Its  architecture  is  of  the  Doric  order,  simple,  grand, 
and  beautiful.  Thosp  pdifires  are  all  the  works  of  the  Republic. 
Seventy-five  full  length  statues  of  its  benefactors,  and  numerous  busts 
are  among  its  decorations.  It  is  appropriated  entirely  to  the  sick  of 
both  sexes.  Large  as  the  establishment  is,  the  wards  were  all  filled, 
and  exhibited  an  air  of  neatness  and  comfort.  Iron  bedsteatis  con- 
tribute greatly  to  its  cleanliness.  Its  extensive  pharmacy  is  open  to 
the  city,  and  the  profits  arising  from  the  sale  of  medicine  are  appro- 
priated towards  defraying  the  expenses  of  the  institution.  Besides 
these  two  immense  establishments,  Genoa  contains  a  hospital  for  in- 
curables, and  two  houses  of  refuge  for  females,  where  they  are  trained 
to  habits  of  industry,  and  employed  chiefly  in  the  manufacture  of  arti- 
ficial flowers.  In  short,  I  have  seen  few  cities  where  more  ample 
provision  has  been  made  for  the  poor,  and  it  may  be  added,  few  cities 
stand  more  in  need  of  such  charities. 

The  churches  of  Genoa  are  not  less  numerous  and  splendid  than  the 
palaces.  Religious  enthusiasm  and  a  faith  beyond  all  others  fond  of 
outward  pomp  have  consecrated  to  holy  purpcises  the  trophies  of  war, 
and  much  of  the  wealth  accumulated  by  a  lucrative  trade.  At  the 
time  most  of  these  edifices  were  erected,  the  Genoese  had  acquired 
the  ascendency  in  the  Mediterranean,  and  pushed  their  commerce  to 
every  part  of  its  shores.     Their  ships  returned  laden  with  the  spoils 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  59 

of  the  east — with  the  marbles  and  precious  stones  of  Greece,  Egypt, 
and  Africa,  together  with  a  taste  for  oriental  splendour.  Public  mu- 
nificence vied  with  private  zeal  in  raising  temples,  shrines  and  altars, 
better  suited  to  the  oracles  of  the  Delphic  god,  or  the  divinity  at 
Ephesus,  than  to  tiie  meek  and  lowly  religion  of  the  Redeemer.  The 
same  spirit  still  exists,  without  the  same  wealth  to  support  it,  and  the 
consequence  is,  that  the  slender  resources  of  the  community  are  ex- 
hausted in  the  maintenance  of  a  showy  faith.  A  poor  woman  who 
begs  a  sous  at  the  door  of  the  sanctuary,  instead  of  appropriating  it 
to  feed  her  starving  children,  will  perhaps  cast  it  at  the  feet  of  the  first 
image  to  which  she  kneels,  as  a  contribution  towards  buying  a  new 
tiara,  or  a  new  set  of  ribbons  for  the  Madonna,  who  it  must  always 
be  remembered  is  the  great  object  of  worship,  not  to  say  of  idolatry, 
in  Italy. 

We  visited  perhaps  a  majority  of  the  forty  churches  at  Genoa,  of 
which  a  few  only  will  be  selected  for  notice.  The  first  in  point  of 
ecclesiastical  importance  is  the  Cathedral,  called  by  way  of  distinction 
n  Duomo.  It  is  a  Gothic  structure  covered  on  the  outside  with  black 
and  white  marble,  in  wide  alternate  stripes,  giving  it  a  fantastic  ap- 
pearance, and  to  my  taste  destroying  all  the  grandeur  which  its  colos- 
sal proportions  would  otherwise  produce.  Misshapen,  spiral  columns, 
add  to  the  deformity  of  the  exterior.  The  inside  exhibits  a  compound 
of  meanness  and  splendour.  Superb  pillars  of  Parian  marble  rise 
along  the  nave,  and  chapels  and  altars  glittering  with  gold  and  with 
gems,  extend  on  all  sides  round  the  walls.  Most  of  the  ornaments 
are  tawdry,  and  some  of  them  ludicrous.  Near  the  entrance,  a  statue 
of  a  saint  stared  ns  in  the  face,  wearing  a  cardinal's  hat  made  of 
wood !  The  ordinary  crowns  for  the  images  of  the  Virgin  and  her 
Bambino,  (for  both  are  uniformly  invested  with  badges  of  royalty,)  are 
of  tin,  sometimes  washed  with  silver.  Their  waxen  or  wooden  faces 
are  generally  daubed  with  rouge,  and  their  persons  bedizzened  with 
all  the  finery  imaginable — embroidered  petticoats,  silks,  laces,  furbe- 
lows, rings,  beads,  and  trinkets  of  every  description.  Such  trumpery 
is  often  mingled  with  the  pictures  and  statues  by  the  first  Italian 
masters. 

In  the  Cathedral  we  found  little  to  admire,  though  much  to  dazzle. 
It  was  brilliantly  lighted  up  at  noon  day,  and  crowds  were  kneeling  on 
the  Mosaic  pavement,  before  the  altars,  while  the  priesthood,  clad  in 
gorgeous  robes,  were  busy  in  burning  incense  and  muttering  their  pray- 
ers. We  observed  a  group  of  people  collected  round  a  little  crucifix, 
which  was  stretched  upon  the  floor,  and  to  which  they  in  turn  knelt, 
kissing  the  forehead,  hands,  and  feet,  as  well  as  the  wounds  of  this 


60         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

rude  image  of  the  bleeding  Saviour.  The  picture  was  affecting,  and 
of  too  serious  a  character  to  excite  any  other  feelings  than  compassion 
for  such  mistaken  notions  of  piety. 

This  church  lays  peculiar  claims  to  veneration,  as  well  from  its  great 
antiquity,  as  from  other  circumstances  still  more  imposing.  It  is  said 
to  occupy  the  site  of  an  ancient  hospice,  in  which  St.  Lawrence  lodged 
on  his  way  from  Spain  to  Rome.  After  the  martyrdom  of  that  Saint, 
about  the  middle  of  the  third  century,  the  building  which  had  been 
sanctified  by  his  pilgrim  feet,  was  converted  into  a  church,  and  assumed 
the  name  of  the  martyr.  He  and  Saint  John  the  Baptist  are  joint 
patrons  of  the  city.  The  ashes  of  the  latter  are  said  to  rest  in  an  urn 
of  iron,  beneath  one  of  the  altars  in  this  church,  having  been  brought 
hither  from  a  town  in  Lysia,  where  he  died.  Among  the  relics  of  the 
Cathedral  is  the  celebrated  Catino^  or  emerald  dish  out  of  which  tra- 
dition says  that  the  Saviour  ate  the  pascal  lamb  with  his  Disciples,  It 
was  brought  from  the  Holy  Land  by  Guillaume  Embriaco,  as  one  of 
the  spoils  of  the  first  Crusade.  When  the  French  took  possession  of 
Genoa,  Napoleon  sent  it  to  Paris,  to  undergo  an  analysis  by  the  Insti- 
tute. Lady  Morgan  states,  that  it  was  found  to  be  composed  of  glass. 
Since  the  restoration  of  the  Bourbons,  this  sacred  relic  has  been  re- 
turned to  the  church,  but  hke  the  dust  of  St.  John,  it  is  now  kept  out" 
of  sight. 

The  Cathedral  bears  several  curious  inscriptions,  one  of  which  as- 
cribes the  foundation  of  Genoa,  the  capital  of  ancient  Liguria,  to  Janus, 
the  double-faced  god  recognized  among  the  divinities  of  Rome.  In 
the  thirteenth  century,  a  Genoese  archbishop  wrote  a  formal  treatise, 
still  extant,  to  prove  that  the  city  was  built  700  years  anterior  to  Rome  ; 
rebuilt  at  the  time  of  Abraham  ;  and  after  another  destruction,  resto- 
red for  the  third  time,  1246  years  before  the  Christian  era!  This  is 
laying  claim  to  a  tolerably  high  origin  ;  yet  it  does  not  appear  from 
authentic  history,  that  Genoa  was  a  town  of  much  importance  in  the 
time  of  the  Romans.  The  Ligurians  were  a  fierce,  warlike,  and  com- 
paratively uncivilize(^  nation,  retreating  to  the  fastnesses  of  their  moun- 
tains when  invaded,  and  strugghng  for  liberty  against  the  dominion  of 
their  conquerors. 

We  went  to  the  church  of  St.  Mathew,  to  see  the  tomb  of  Andrew 
Doria.  A  young  priest  lighted  a  flambeau,  and  conducted  us  down  a 
flight  of  steps  into  the  vault,  which  consists  of  a  noble  arch  of  white 
marble,  adorned  with  bas-relief  and  embossed  with  gold.  It  is  a 
splendid  sepulchre,  rather  imperial  than  republican  in  its  character,  and 
destitute  of  that  simplicity,  which  one  would  wish  to  find  in  every 
thing  connected  with  such  a  man.     He  shares  a  common  tomb  with 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  Gl 

the  rest  of  his  family.  The  solitude  and  silence  of  the  crypt,  hallowed 
by  the  dust  of  the  hero ;  the  glare  of  the  taper  upon  the  fretted  roof 
and  antique  sculpture,  imparted  a  deep  solemnity  to  this  mansion  of 
the  dead.  On  our  return  to  the  cheerful  light  of  day,  half  an  hour 
was  spent  in  examining  the  church  of  St.  Mathew,  the  interior  of 
which  is  among  the  richest  at  Genoa,  being  filled  with  presents  from 
the  Doria  family.  The  Gothic  front  is  inscribed  with  the  deeds  of 
the  chief,  who  reposes  below.  We  were  shocked,  while  sauntering 
about  the  aisles,  to  come  suddenly  upon  a  rude  image  of  the  Saviour, 
large  as  life,  gashed  with  wounds,  and  besmeared  with  blood,  stretched 
out  like  a  corpse  in  one  of  the  recesses,  where  it  had  been  stowed 
away  as  a  part  of  the  lumber  of  the  church,  to  be  borne  through  the 
streets  on  the  next  religious  festival.  "^ 

On  taking  leave  of  the  young  priest  who  conducted  us  to  the  vault, 
and  presenting  to  him  the  ordinary  pittance  for  his  trouble,  he  seized 
our  hands  and  pressed  them  to  his  lips.  A  salutation  of  this  kind  was 
so  sudden  and  unexpected,  that  tliere  was  no  time  for  resistance  :  other- 
wise a  descendant  of  Andrew  Doria  and  Christopher  Columbus 
should  never  with  us  have  debased  himself  by  such  an  act  of  servility. 
I  suppose  however  the  hand  of  a  republican  is  at  least  as  good  as  the 
toe  of  a  Pope  ;  and  the  stripling  therefore  did  not  stoop  to  any  extra- 
ordinary degree  of  humility.  In  Italy,  every  thing  is  done  by  kissing. 
Full  grown,  bearded  men  kiss  each  other  on  both  cheeks,  at  meeting 
and  parting,  as  a  common  salutation — an  unmanly  custom,  displeasing 
to  the  eye  of  a  stranger.  Devotees  kiss  not  only  crosses  and  crucifixes, 
the  faces  and  feet  of  statues,  but  the  very  doors  and  steps  of  the 
churches.  A  practice  so  universally  prevalent  is  strongly  character- 
istic of  the  effeminacy  of  Italian  manners. 

The  antique  gothic  church  of  St.  Stephen  was  visited  almost  solely 
for  the  purpose  of  examining  a  celebrated  painting  over  the  High 
Altar,  partly  by  Raphael  and  partly  by  his  pupil  Julio  Romano.  The 
subject  is  the  stoning  of  St.  Stephen,  and  the  picture  has  been  much 
admired  by  connoisseurs,  as  well  as  by  some  who  are  not  connoisseurs. 
Even  to  our  unskilful  eyes,  the  composition,  expression,  and  colour- 
ing, all  appeared  striking.  The  history  of  the  picture  is  at  least  amu- 
sing. It  was  presented  to  the  church  by  Pope  Leo  X.  On  the  con- 
quest of  Genoa  by  the  French,  it  emigrated  beyond  the  Alps,  and 
figured  for  some  years  in  the  Louvre,  whence  it  was  restored,  at  the 
solicitation  of  David  the  painter,  by  order  of  the  Holy  Alhance. 

The  church  of  St.  Maria  de  Carignan,  founded  by  the  SaoH  family,  in 
1552,  is  decidedly  the  most  showy  edifice  of  the  kind  in  the  city,  lifting 
its  lofty  front  and  triple  towers  above  all  other  objects  in  the  vicinity.     It 


62         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

owes  much  to  its  position,  standing  upon  an  eminence  near  the  extre- 
mity of  a  high  promontory  projecting  into  the  sea  on  the  south  of  the 
harbour.  Its  central  dome  is  said  to  resemble  that  of  St.  Peter's  at 
Rome.  It  is  one  of  the  first  objects  to  arrest  the  attention  of  the  tra- 
veller in  entering  the  town.  We  ascended  to  the  cupola  on  a  bright 
April  morning,  and  enjoyed  a  prospect  hardly  to  be  equalled  in  extent, 
variety,  and  grandeur.  To  the  nortii  and  west  the  Apennines  and 
the  snowy  summits  of  the  Alps,  sweep  in  a  bold  amphitheatre  round 
the  head  of  the  Gulf,  the  immediate  shores  of  which  are  bordered  with 
numerous  white  villages.  Towards  the  south,  the  Mediterranean 
spreads  a  bright  and  boundless  expanse  of  waters,  on  which  vessels 
are  seen  leaving  and  entering  the  port.  Along  the  coast  towards 
Leghorn,  the  eye  ranges  for  many  miles,  till  the  view  is  terminated  by 
high  bluffs  jutting  into  the  sea.  The  pretty  white  faubourg  of  Albaro, 
the  torrent  of  Bisagno  bathing  the  ramparts  of  the  town,  and  Genoa 
in  all  its  architectural  pride,  are  spread  at  the  feet  of  the  spectator. 
Familiar  as  the  scenery  had  already  become,  this  picture  afforded  us 
far  more  pleasure  than  all  the  statues  and  portraits  of  saints  in  the  aisles 
below,  although  some  of  them  rank  high  as  specimens  of  the  arts. 

In  the  vicinity  of  this  church,  a  stupendous  bridge  resting  on  seven 
arches  and  something  like  a  hundred  feet  in  height  is  thrown  across  a 
gulf  to  connect  two  of  the  hills  on  which  Genoa  is  built.  A  street 
passes  in  the  depth  of  the  ravine,  under  the  bridge,  and  the  houses 
along  the  sides  are  eight  or  nine  stories  high.  The  whole  scene 
strikingly  resembles  some  parts  of  Edinburgh,  to  which  it  is  in  no  wise 
inferior.  For  this  colossal  work  as  well  as  for  the  church  above  de- 
scribed, the  town  is  indebted  to  the  public  spirit  and  munificence  of 
the  noble  family  of  Saoh,  who  constructed  both  at  their  own  expense, 
amounting  to  a  million  dollars.  An  instance  of  greater  hberality  is 
perhaps  not  to  be  found  on  record.  Some  of  the  family  still  reside  in 
a  modest  mansion,  surrounded  with  trees  and  pretty  gardens,  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  church. 

The  only  remaining  church  I  shall  mention  is  that  of  the  Annun- 
ziata,  situated  upon  the  i^iazza  of  the  same  name,  immediately  under 
the  windows  of  our  hotel.  It  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  fashiona- 
ble in  the  city.  Its  front  is  rude  and  unfinished,  but  the  interior  is 
extremely  rich  in  marbles,  paintings,  and  embellishments  of  all  de- 
scriptions, which,  however,  do  not  show  to  advantage,  on  account  of 
the  smallness  of  the  windows,  and  the  more  than  twikght  dimness  of 
the  long  aisles.  It  owes  the  splendour  of  its  chapels  and  altars  to  the 
munificence  of  the  family  of  Lomehni,  formerly  the  proprietors  and 
sovereigns  of  the  little  isle  of  Tabarca  in  the  Mediterranean,  whence 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  G^ 

t-liey  were  routed  by  the  Tunisians,  who  took  possession  of  their  sea- 
girt dominions.  Among  the  gorgeous  shrines,  which  hne  the  walls  of 
the  Annunziata,  is  one  dedicated  to  St.  Louis,  king  of  France,  and 
appropriated  to  the  French  nation.  Near  it  is  the  tomb  of  the  Duke 
of  Boufflers,  who  was  sent  by  Louis  XV.  with  an  army  to  the  aid  of 
the  Genoese  Republic,  while  undergoing  a  sieg-  about  tlie  middle  of 
the  last  century.  He  died  during  his  mission,  and  his  services  arc 
commemorated  in  a  neat  Latin  epitaph. 

We  were  at  Genoa  during  Holy  Week,  and  as  the  Church  and 
Piazza  of  the  Annunziata  formed  the  great  place  of  rendezvous  for 
all  the  parades  and  religious  ceremonies,  a  fine  opportunity  of  wit- 
nessing the  round  of  spectacles  was  afforded  us,  often  without  even 
the  trouble  of  leaving  our  rooms.  This  area,  or  rather  enlargement 
of  the  Strada  Balbi,  possesses  peculiar  sanctity  in  the  estimation  of 
devotees,  from  the  circumstance  that  the  Pope,  on  his  return  from 
the  coronation  of  Napoleon  at  Paris,  in  1804,  dwelt  some  time  in 
a  palace  bordering  upon  the  square,  and  from  its  terrace  on  one  oc- 
casion, blessed  an  immense  multitude  kneeling  upon  the  pavement. 
Our  first  visit  to  the  church  was  on  the  morning  of  Good  Friday, 
when  numerous  lamps  were  glimmering  at  the  altars,  which  rise  along 
its  dusky  aisles,  and  an  immense  crowd  of  both  sexes  were  engaged  in 
the  solemn  chant.  .^ 

The  public  ceremonies  on  the  evening  of  that  day  struck  us  with 
utter  astonishment,  much  as  had  been  heard  of  the  nmmmery  of  the 
Romish  Church.  Soon  after  dark,  the  procession  appeared  in  sight 
at  a  distance,  moving  slowly  along  the  streets.  In  front  were  great 
numbers  of  females,  walking  two  and  two,  dressed  in  white,  with 
veils  upon  their  heads,  and  tapers  in  their  hands,  the  dim  light  of 
which,  glaring  upon  their  snowy  mantles,  imparted  a  pale  and  ghastly 
hue  to  their  features.  Each  bore  a  book,  and  united  in  the  chant  of 
a  solemn  dirge,  responding  to  the  priests  in  another  part  of  the  pro- 
cession. At  intervals  of  some  twenty  feet,  rose  a  long  line  of  black 
crosses,  of  large  size  and  elevated  high  above  the  heads  of  the  mul- 
titude. They  were  followed  by  a  lengthened  train  of  boys  in  black 
uniform,  walking  in  the  same  manner,  and  joining  in  the  general  con- 
cert. Next  came  the  priests  in  black  robes,  and  the  monks  with  bald 
pates,  flowing  beards,  the  coarse  brown  wrapper,  bound  by  a  leathern 
girdle,  and  sandals  upon  their  feet,  all  bearing  lights  and  looking  like 
spirits  from  another  world.  To  these  succeeded,  what  ? — a  hearse, 
with  a  sable  canopy  above  it,  on  which  was  stretched  feet-foremost 
the  naked  image  of  the  crucified  Saviour,  all  gashed  with  wounds, 
and  as  nearly  as  I  could  judge  at  the  dis^tance  of  a  few  feet,  actually 


64         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

stained  with  fresh  blood.  It  was  made  of  wax,  as  large  as  lite,  and 
so  exact  was  the  revolting  representation,  that  by  the  livid  glimmering 
of  the  flambeaux,  no  one  could  distinguish  it  from  a  real  corpse.  Be- 
hind the  body  marched  a  troop  of  infantry,  with  reversed  arms,  and 
to  the  tap  of  the  muffled  drum !  It  was  in  all  respects  a  pompous 
funeral  procession,  and  the  mangled  corse  underwent  the  solemn 
mockery  of  interment  with  the  honours  of  war !  On  a  subsequent 
day,  which  is  supposed  to  be  the  anniversary  of  the  Saviour's  resur- 
rection from  the  tomb,  a  feu  de  joic  was  fired  at  twelve  o'clock  by  all 
the  garrisons  and  royal  regiments  throughout  the  city,  and  the  in- 
fantry were  then  again  permitted  to  shoulder  their  arms.  Amidst 
this  shocking  pageantry,  which  filled  our  minds  with  horror,  the  mul- 
titude manifested  a  great  degree  of  levity.  Even  some  of  those  in 
the  procession,  during  the  pauses  between  the  choral  swells  of  the 
chant,  were  talking  and  laughing  with  each  other  ;  and  a  ragged  boy 
to  each  candle,  holding  a  paper  to  catch  the  wax  as  it  dropped,  added 
to  the  mockery  of  the  scene. 

The  streets  were  thronged  with  religious  processions  during  every 
day  and  night  of  Holy  Week.  Priests,  monks,  and  women  seemed  to 
be  allowed  to  beat  up  for  recruits,  and  to  head  processions  as  often  as 
they  chose.  Sometimes  squads  of  not  more  than  a  dozen  boys  or 
beggars,  in  tattered  garments,  were  seen  marching  from  church  to 
church,  under  the  sacred  banner  of  the  cross,  and  bawling  out  the 
service,  as  if  to  attract  public  attention.  On  one  occasion,  a  pretty 
Genoese  female,  who  in  appearance  might  pass  for  a  Vestal,  was  seen 
leading  a  band  of  volunteers,  bearing  a  heavy  wooden  cross  wreathed 
with  flowers.  Her  party  appeared  to  be  composed  of  ladies  from  the 
higher  classes  of  society,  who  to  the  costume  of  lace  veils  and  spot- 
less robes,  added  the  accompaniments  of  white  kid  shoes  and  gloves. 
They  made  the  tour  of  the  principal  streets,  singing  anthems  as  they 
passed,  with  voices  that  possessed  much  of  the  Italian  softness. 

On  the  Sunday  following  Good  Friday,  we  attended  church  at  the 
Annunciation,  where  a  regiment  of  Sardinian  troops  were  paraded 
under  arms  along  the  aisles,  and  a  band  of  martial  music  stationed 
near  the  High  Altar.  They  actually  went  through  the  forms  of  pub- 
lic worship  at  the  word  of  command  from  their  oflicers,  kneeling  and 
rising  in  long  lines  with  as  much  exactness  as  they  would  go  through 
with  the  manual  exercise.  Peals  of  the  trumpet  gave  notice  of  the 
elevation  of  the  host,  and  of  other  stages  in  the  holy  rites.  At  the 
conclusion  of  the  service,  the  band  played  some  spirited  marches, 
with  which  the  priesthood  seemed  as  highly  pleased  as  the  multitude. 

At  1 1  o'clock  the  next  day,  the  whole  body  of  troops  stationed  at 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         Co 

Genoa  were  paraded  in  the  same  church,  to  take  the  annual  oath  of 
allegiance  to  the  King.  They  all  knelt  upon  the  pavement,  and  held 
up  tlieir  right  hands  in  concert,  while  the  form  was  administered.  On 
this  occasion  the  Bishop  made  a  long  harangue,  throwing  himself  into 
an  oratorical  attitude.  At  the  close  of  his  speech,  the  troops  shouted 
"  Viva  il  Re  .'" — Long  live  the  King  !  As  the  cry  was  simultaneous, 
it  was  evidently  preconcerted  applause.  Martial  music  from  the  same 
band  as  on  the  day  previous,  the  notes  of  the  bugle,  reverberated 
from  the  lofty  dome,  and  the  pompous  ceremonies  of  the  church, 
gave  a  theatrical  clVec^t  to  t!ie  whole  scene. 

It  would  be  impossible  to  describe  in  detail  all  the  shows,  chiefly  of 
a  religious  character,  which  the  streets  of  Genoa  exhibited  during  the 
Holy  Week.  On  one  occasion  we  saw  a  crowd  collected  upon  the 
steps  of  a  church  in  the  Strada  Balbi,  and,  on  stepping  up,  found  a 
priest  in  the  centre,  blessing  a  tub  of  water,  which  he  was  dealing 
out  to  a  ragged  nmltitude,  each  bearing  a  pitcher,  boltle,  or  jug,  and 
pressing  to  receive  a  portion  of  the  consecrated  liquid.  A  benedic- 
tion is  pronounced  upon  every  thing  here  :  even  horses  at  certain  sea- 
sons are  led  up  and  touched  by  holy  hands.  One  day  in  passing 
througii  a  public  square,  I  observed  an  itinerant  and  street  auctioneer, 
mounted  upon  a  stool,  with  a  basket  before  him,  and  encircled  by  a 
squalid  group  of  purchasers.  He  was  vending  httle  prints  of  saints 
and  martyrs,  which  were  generally  knocked  off  at  about  a  sous  a 
head.  He  kissed  each  picture  as  he  drew  it  from  the  basket,  and  on 
holding  it  up  for  a  bid,  all  the  crowd  took  off  their  hats.  But  this 
habitual  prevalence  of  religious  feeling  does  not  seem  to  have  much 
influence  in  the  prevention  of  crimes.  On  the  same  day  or  the  day 
after,  in  threading  one  of  the  narrow  streets,  we  observed  fresh  blood 
upon  the  pavement,  and  on  inquiry,  a  by-stander  informed  us,  that 
a  man  had  just  stabbed  another  to  the  heart,  who  expired  imme- 
diately. 

A  coincidence  of  important  events  seemed  to  take  place  durinn-  our 
visit — Holy  Week  with  all  its  novelties — the  arrival  of  his  Majesty 
from  Turin — and  last  of  all  the  King's  birthday  came  round.  The 
glorious  anniversary  did  not  happen  on  the  frst  of  April,  though  it 
was  very  near  it.  A  morning  so  auspicious  to  the  Genoese  republi- 
cans was  hailed  by  a  tremendous  cannonade,  which  led  us  to  hope, 
till  informed  of  the  cause,  that  the  American  squadron  had  arrived. 
At  12  o'clock,  the  royal  pair  followed  by  the  court,  entered  their  se- 
dans and  were  borne  to  the  Church  of  Annunciation,  to  say  mass  and 
show  themselves  to  the  multitude.  In  the  evening  the  fashionable 
part  of  the  town  was  illuminated. 

^'OL.  II,  9 


66         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

Tfiere  are  few  public  amusements  at  Genoa.  A  minor  theatre, 
and  a  temporary  circus  were  open  ;  but  neither  of  them  was  worth 
attendinij.  The  foundations  of  a  large  Opera  House  have  been  laid, 
and  a  Russian  Mountain  is  in  progress.  At  this  time  the  churches 
seem  to  be  the  most  fashionable  places  of  resort ;  though  on  one  after- 
noon, we  saw  most  of  the  nobility,  taste,  and  beauty  of  the  city  upon 
the  new  Promenade,  which  has  recently  been  opened  near  the  ancient 
walls  of  the  town.  The  Genoese  horses  and  carriages  are  both  hand- 
some— much  more  so  than  the  French.  There  were  many  of  them 
upon  the  course,  chasing  one  another  round  a  circle  perhaps  half  a 
mile  in  diameter,  to  show  their  equipages  to  the  crowd.  A  lady  of 
the  first  rank  was  pointed  out  to  us,  with  a  whiskered  chasseur,  six 
feet  high,  in  a  military  coat,  for  her  servente.  It  was  ludicrous  to 
see  this  grenadier  obsequiously  treading  in  the  footsteps  of  a  female, 
keeping  a  few  feet  behind  her,  stopping  when  she  stopped,  and  cross- 
ing the  streets  when  she  crossed.  To  such  service  the  bone  and  mus- 
cle of  Italy  are  trained. 

Of  the  manufactures  of  Genoa  I  have  but  a  word  to  say.  Like 
those  of  France,  and  unlike  those  of  England,  they  are  carried  on  in 
private  establishments,  upon  a  small  scale.  Immense  quantities  of 
coral  are  made  into  beads  and  other  ornaments  for  exportation.  We 
visited  one  of  these  manufactories,  common  all  over  town,  and  con- 
stituting perhaps  the  most  prominent  article  of  industry.  Genoese 
jewelry  is  also  splendid.  All  the  shops  are  concentrated  in  one 
street,  forming  its  only  embellishments.  We  likewise  examined  seve- 
ral of  the*  manufactories  for  damasks,  silks,  and  other  fine  stufls, 
which  appeared  in  no  respect  inferior  to  those  of  Lyons.  In  one  of 
the  looms  was  a  beautiful  web  for  his  Holiness  the  Pope  ;  an- 
other for  a  Spanish  nobleman  ;  and  a  third  for  the  Lima  market. 
The  Genoese  are  an  ingenious  people,  and  need  only  a  free  govern- 
ment to  revive  the  spirit  of  industry  and  enterprise. 

One  morning  was  not  unpleasantly  employed,  in  a  ramble  along 
the  wild  and  rocky  banks  of  the  Bisagno,  and  through  the  village  of 
Albaro,  standing  upon  its  shore.  Here  Lord  Byron  resided  for  the  last 
nine  months,  previous  to  his  embarkation  for  Greece.  An  anecdote 
was  told  us  respecting  his  departure,  which  perhaps  is  not  new,  as  few 
incidents  in  his  life  have  escaped  the  avidity  of  the  public.  On  the 
night  after  sailing,  the  ship  was  overtaken  by  a  tremendous  storm  in 
the  Gulf,  and  the  master  was  so  frightened  as  to  be  incapable  of  per- 
forming his  duty.  Byron  assumed  the  command,  seized  the  helm, 
and  guided  her  back  into  port.  The  furniture  of  the  house  in  which 
he  lived,  remains  just  as  he  left  it,  and  is  now  in  possession  of  his 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         07 

banker  at  Genoa.  His  mode  of  life  was  as  eccentric  here  as  in  other 
places.  With  his  countrymen  he  licld  no  fellowship.  He  kept  his 
horse,  and  used  to  ride  to  the  city  once  a  day  to  read  the  news.  A 
gentleman  informed  us,  that  on  receiving  the  intelligence  that  Lord 
Castlereagh  had  cut  his  throat,  Byron  remarked — "  it  is  the  best 
thing  he  has  ever  done  for  his  country  !" 

A  full  day  was  occupied  in  an  excursion  to  Cocoletto,  the  reputed 
birth-place  of  Christopher  Columbus.  Although  much  obscurity 
still  hangs  over  the  cradle  of  this  great  man  ;  yet  the  American  tra- 
veller in  particular  will  feel  a  satisfaction  in  visiting  a  spot,  which  tra- 
dition has  associated  with  the  Discoverer  of  the  New  World.  I  have 
neither  time  nor  inclination  at  present  to  enter  into  a  disquisition  upon 
the  contradictory  authorities  in  relation  to  this  subject,  nor  to  balance 
the  conflicting  claims  of  rival  places  to  the  nativity  of  the  adventu- 
rous navigator.  His  own  manuscript  is  now  understood  to  be  in  tlic 
hands  of  one  of  our  countrymen  at  Madrid,  who  perhaps  may  throw 
some  new  liglit  upon  the  early  years  of  its  author. 

The  village  of  Cocoletto  is  situated  at  the  head  of  the  Gulf,  about 
fifteen  miles  from  Genoa,  on  the  road  towards  Savone.  On  arriving 
at  the  little  hotel,  inquiry  was  made  for  the  house  of  Christopher  Co- 
lumbus, and  some  half  a  dozen  villagers,  who  seemed  to  exult  in  the 
name,  led  the  way  to  the  antique  and  humble  mansion.  It  stands 
upon  the  sea-shore,  encircled  by  the  Alps,  and  looking  south  upon  a 
waste  of  waters.  If  the  grandeur  of  natural  scenery  can  inspire  ge- 
nius, and  awaken  young  thought  to  noble  pursuits,  Cocoletto  may 
hence  draw  an  argument  to  strengthen  her  claim,  and  in  this  particu- 
lar at  least  challenge  competition.  The  low,  arched  ceilings  and  de- 
cayed walls  bear  all  the  marks  of  great  age  ;  but  one  can  hardly  bring 
himself  to  the  belief,  that  they  have  stood  between  three  and  four  cen- 
turies. A  small  chamber,  perhaps  ten  feet  square,  is  shown,  in  which 
it  is  pretended  Columbus  was  born.  Many  fragments  of  the  ceiling 
have  been  carried  away  as  relics.  The  furniture  of  the  room  looks  as 
if  it  might  be  coeval  with  the  apartment.  A  little  image  of  the  Madon- 
na, a  cross,  and  a  cup  for  the  holy  water,  are  suspended  from  the  curtain 
at  the  head  of  the  bed.  The  present  tenant  is  a  kind-hearted  woman, 
who  spread  her  frugal  board  and  insisted  on  sharing  its  hospitality 
with  the  stranger  from  a  distant  land,  which  her  illustrious  predeces- 
sor had  discovered.  Her  ideas  of  cosmography  were  not  very  precise, 
and  like  many  other  less  pardonable  Europeans,  she  seemed  to  con- 
sider all  Americans,  as  the  descendants  of  the  Aborigines. 

In  front  of  the  house  is  a  small  terrace,  overhanging  the  shore  :  and 


G8         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

when  the  Gulf  is  stormy  and  the  waves  run  high,  a  shower  of  spray 
patters  upon  the  roof.  If  this  was  really  the  birth-place  of  Colum- 
bus, it  may  almost  be  said,  that  he  was  cradled  upon  the  sea  :  the 
first  sounds  he  heard  must  have  been  its  murmurs,  and  the  first  object 
of  his  vision,  its  blue  expanse.  As  I  stood  leaning  over  the  balus- 
trade, watching  the  swells  breaking  at  my  feet,  and  the  line  of  little 
boats  moored  along  the  beach,  incredulity  for  a  moment  vanished, 
and  imagination  pictured  the  juvenile  navigator,  launching  his  adven- 
turous bark,  and  sporting  with  that  element,  which  was  destined  to 
conduct  him  to  imperishable  renown. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  (ill 

LETTER  L. 

HOl'TE    FROM   GENOA   TO    PISA — ITALIAN    COACHES CHIAVARI — CESTUI 

MOl'NTAIN    SCENERY BOROIIETTO (U'LF  OF    SPEZIA SARZANA 

MASSA  — PIETKA  SANTA — LUCCA — RIDE  TO  PISA. 


April,  1826. 

On  the  8th,  a  vctturino  was  engaged  to  take  us  from  Genoa  to  Pisa,  a 
distance  of  something  more  than  150  English  miles,  for  sixty  francs 
each,  including  dinner  and  lodgings  during  the  journey.  This  is 
the  ordinary  mode  of  travelling  in  Italy.  'I'he  vettura  is  a  sort  of 
public  coach,  with  two,  and  sometimes  three  or  four,  horses,  gene- 
rally owned  by  the  driver,  who  performs  the  whole  route  with  the 
same  team,  making  long  rests  at  the  hotels,  in  the  manner  of  private 
carriages.  Throngs  of  vetturini  are  found  in  all  the  principal  cities, 
who  have  a  kind  of  exchange  of  their  own,  where  they  wage  an  ac- 
tive competition,  besetting  every  person  that  passes  with  their  impor- 
tunities, and  cries  of  their  coaches  for  different  places.  They  can 
hardly  be  said  to  have  a  home,  leading  a  wandering  life,  and  journey- 
ing on,  like  vessels  employed  in  the  carrying  trade,  clearing  out  for 
one  port  after  another,  and  waiting  for  a  new  cargo,  in  point  of  ho- 
nesty they  may  more  properly  be  compared  to  pirates,  having  no 
fixed  prices,  and  commonly  demanding  twice  or  thrice  as  much,  as 
they  will  ultimately  consent  to  take.  As  much  time  and  formality  are 
required  in  striking  a  bargain  with  them,  as  in  negotiating  a  national 
treaty.  Duplicate  bonds  are  regularly  drawn,  signed,  sealed,  and  de- 
livered ;  and  the  traveller  often  receives  a  Napoleon  or  two,  as  a  far- 
ther pledge  for  the  fidelity  of  the  driver. 

The  road  from  Genoa  to  Pisa,  like  that  between  the  former  place 
and  Nice,  traverses  the  shore  of  the  Mediterranean,  crossing  alter- 
nately lofty  ridges  and  deep  vales,  springing  from  the  western  declivi- 
ties of  the  Apennines,  and  forming  one  of  the  most  romantic  districts 
imaginable.  All  the  combinations  of  natural  scenery,  which  can  arise 
from  the  grandest  and  most  beautiful  elements  —from  bright  sides  and 
still  brighter  waters — from  mountains  now  heaving  their  snowy  tops 
to  the  clouds,  and  now  sinking  into  woody  slopes — from  bold,  pic- 
turesque promontories  shooting  into  the  sea — from  deef),  azure,  and 
tranquil  bays,  setting  up  between  the  hills — from  sequestered,  sunny 
glades,  clothed  in  verdure,  and  even  at  tiiis  season  teeming  with  fruits 
and  flowers — from  little  white  villages  perched  upon  the  crags,  with 
perhaps  its  tiny  port  spreading  beneath — in  a   word,  from  rocks. 


^ 


c 


70         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

woods,  and  waves,  wildness  and  cultivation,  thrown  together  in  the 
most  romantic  forms,  are  here  successively  presented  to  the  eye. 

Eustace,  in  his  "•  Classical  Tour,"  went  from  Leghorn  to  Genoa  by 
water,  partly,  he  said,  because  the  road  is  uninteresting,  and  partly 
from  a  fear  of  banditti,  by  whom  it  is  at  times  beset ;  and  Madame 
Starke,  though  never  wanting  in  a  spirit  of  adventure  herself,  advises 
the  traveller  to  take  a  felucca  and  navigate  a  waste  of  waters,  to  the 
loss  of  all  this  enchanting  scenery.  These  hints  and  the  accounts  of 
other  tourists  led  us  to  look  upon  the  route  with  the  same  sort  of 
dread,  as  was  felt  in  our  departure  from  Nice  ;  but  as  we  were  tra- 
velling in  Italy  for  information,  we  deemed  it  advisable  at  least  to 
keep  in  sight  of  land.  Our  expectations  were  so  agreeably  disap- 
pointed, that  I  would  to-morrow  be  happy  to  retrace  the  same  path 
merely  for  the  sake  of  the  succession  of  fine  views  it  affords.  For 
r  the  greater  part  of  the  way,  the  road  is  excellent.  It  was  surveyed 
and  commenced  under  Napoleon  ;  and  the  present  government  has 
had  the  good  sense  in  one  instance,  to  follow  up  his  splendid  plans, 
and  at  an  immense  expense  execute  a  work,  which  reflects  credit  upon 
the  country.  In  extent  and  magnitude,  the  undertaking  will  bear  a 
comparison  with  the  passages  over  Mont  Cenis  and  the  Semplon,  as 
terraces,  bridges,  and  galleries  were  necessary  almost  every  mile.  It 
is  constructed  in  a  substantial  manner,  and  when  completed  will  en- 
dure for  ages. 

At  the  close  of  my  last  letter,  I  gave  a  brief  sketch  of  a  little  vil- 
lage, which  claims  the  honour  of  giving  birth  to  Columbus.  One  of 
the  first  objects,  that  attracted  our  attention  after  leaving  Genoa,  was 
the  rival  village  of  Quinto,  which  puts  in  its  claim  to  the  same  distinc- 
tion, as  sharply  contested  and  left  almost  in  as  much  doubt  as  the 
cradle  of  old  Maeonides.  What  a  picture  of  the  fate  of  genius  is  here 
exhibited! — towns  disputing  for  the  birth-place  of  a  man,  who  in  life 
was  loaded  with  ignominy  and  chains  !  So  has  it  been  with  Dante 
and  GaUileo,  Petrarch  and  Tasso — so  will  it  be  with  Byron  and  Na- 
poleon. 

The  pretensions  of  Quinto  appear  to  be  even  more  equivocal  than 
those  of  Cocoletto.  We  rambled  about  the  village  and  inquired  of 
half  a  dozen  persons,  before  the  house  could  be  found.  It  is  a  less 
modest  as  well  as  a  less  antique  mansion,  than  its  rival  at  the  head  of 
the  Gulf.  At  present  it  is  owned  and  occupied  by  an  English  family, 
who  seem  to  have  gone  there  partly  on  the  strength  of  the  association, 
and  partly  for  the  sake  of  the  beautiful  view  which  the  village  affords 
of  the  Mediterranean  and  the  surrounding  country.  The  house  stands 
back  of  the  principal  street,  at  the  foot  of  the  Apennines,  and  perhaps 


LETTEll£^  FROM  EUROPE.  71 

fifty  yards  from  tlic  sea.  In  front  is  a  small  garden,  filled  with  par- 
terres of  various  plants  and  flowers,  among  which  tlie  rose  was  in  full 
bloom.  The  gardener  permitted  us  to  pluck  a  bouquet,  and  showed 
us  every  thing  to  be  seen  about  the  premises. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  road  is  the  village  church,  seated  upon 
a  beautiful  green  cape,  within  a  few  paces  of  the  water,  whicli  breaks 
and  murmurs  under  its  very  windows.  Just  at  the  moment  of  passing, 
a  funeral  procession  issued  from  the  doors,  ajid  moved  in  solemn  pomp 
to  the  place  of  interment.  It  was  a  kind  of  masquerade,  vvliich  from 
its  associations  perhaps,  had  more  the  appearance  of  mockery  than 
of  real  sorrow.  In  Italy,  societies  arc  formed  for  the  purpose  of 
burying  the  dead.  All  the  members  are  clad  in  dominos  and  masks, 
with  their  eyes  and  mouths  peeping  out,  in  more  of  a  comic  than  se- 
rious manner.  The  object  of  this  disguise  was  originally  good,  it  being 
intended  to  prevent  ostentation,  and  the  world  from  recognizing  per-  \ 
sons  engaged  in  a  public  act  of  humanity. 

Passing  the  palaces  and  velvet  manufactories  of  Nervi,  to  whicli 
point  the  southern  faubourg  of  Genoa  may  almost  be  said  to  extend, 
we  reached  Rapallo  and  the  little  harbour  of  Porto  Fino  about  noon, 
when  the  vetturino  left  us  to  ramble  about  the  hills  and  gaze  at  the  sea 
spreading  beneath  our  feet,  for  two  hours.  This  place  presents  a  splen- 
did view  of  the  city,  which  had  just  been  left  behind,  and  of  the  Alps 
beyond.  Between  Rapallo  and  Chiavari,  the  road  traverses  one  of 
the  boldest  spurs  of  the  Apennines,  terminating  in  tremendous  cliffs 
overhanging  the  sea,  and  apparently  presenting  an  insuperable  barrier. 
But  art>has  scaled  the  rampart  of  rocks,  and  opened  a  path,  at  one  ^-^  V^ 
time  through  galleries  piercing  the  mountain,  and  at  others,  along  ter- 
races suspended  from  the  cliffs  hundreds  of  feet  above  the  water.  In 
one  place  the  loose  fragments  of  the  hill,  appearing  ready  to  slide,  have 
actually  been  propped  up  by  artificial  means.  It  would  not  be  matter 
of  surprise,  if  at  some  future  day,  the  whole  side  of  the  mountain, 
road  and  all,  should  be  precipitated  into  the  sea.  ^ 

Chiavari  is  a  large  town,  both  sides  of  the  main  street  being  lined 
with  handsome  arcades,  beneath  which  fancy  goods  are  displayed  at; 
the  shops  in  the  Parisian  style.  Coffee-houses  and  promenades  exhi- 
bit no  ordinary  share  of  village  splendour  ;  and  well  dressed  people, 
exhibiting  an  air  of  gaiety  and  fashion,  seemed  to  be  enjoying  a  little 
world  of  their  own.  The  town  occupies  the  outlet  of  a  broad  and  deep 
vale,  winding  up  among  the  hills — green,  flowery,  and  exuberant  in  its 
productions.  From  a  small  port  in  the  vicinity,  the  few  wants  of  a 
frugal  population  arc  supplied,  in  exchange  for  the  fruits  of  their  iu-  . 
dustry.  / 


V 


72         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

Crossing  an  alluvial  plain  bordering  upon  the  sea,  and  several  miles 
in  breadth,  we  reached  Cestri  just  before  dark,  and  took  lodgings  at 
the  London  Hotel — a  high  sounding  name  for  the  depth  of  the  Apennines! 
The  house  has  once  been  a  palace,  with  all  its  showy  appurtenances 
of  chapels,  galleries  and  gardens.  In  its  gates  and  turrets,  it  still 
exhibits  some  wrecks  of  its  former  splendour.  An  old  fortress 
crowns  an  eminence  in  the  rear,  and  a  pretty  brook  babbles  by  in 
front.  1  could  gather  nothing  of  its  history  from  the  jargon  of  its 
present  tenants,  wlio  have  converted  one  end  of  the  stately  edifice  into 
a  stable,  and  the  (ither  into  lodging  rooms,  claiming  but  a  slight  su- 
periority in  point  of  neatness. 

The  next  morning  we  resumed  our  journey  at  4  o'clock,  and  saw 
the  day  dawn  and  the  sun  rise  upon  the  mountains  and  waters  about 
us.  In  climbing  long  i  idges  of  the  Apennines  from  this  point,  our 
progress  was  slow  and  toilsome.  At  every  step  the  scenery  assumed 
a  sterner,  wilder,  and  more  savage  aspect,  till  on  all  sides  we  were 
surrounded  by  unbroken  solitudes.  For  many  miles  there  is  not  a 
house,  nor  a  vestige  of  cultivation  to  be  seen.  The  rocl;s  here  be- 
come granitic,  and  show  tliemselves  in  enormous  crags  along  the 
road,  in  many  respects  the  hills  bear  a  striking  resemblance  to  the 
Highlands  of  Scotland.  The  formation  is  the  same,  and  a  scanty 
covering  of  heath  and  prickly  gorse  adds  to  the  similarity.  There  is  a 
sort  of  loneliness  about  these  wastes,  which  at  times  becomes  almost 
terrific,  and  the  traveller  is  not  sorry,  when  he  finds  himself  rapidly 
descending  again  into  deep  and  sunny  vales,  enlivened  by  bounding 
brooks,  shaded  by  groves  of  chestnut  or  olives,  and  rendered  cheerful 
by  human  habitations  however  humble. 

We  reached  the  little  village  of  Borghetto  at  10  o'clock,  and  passed 
an  hour  not  unpleasantly  in  ranibliiig  upon  the  banks  of  the  crystal 
stream  which  hurries  down  from  the  mountains,  and  in  admiring  the 
rural  quiet  of  this  retired  vale.  Sprmg  breathed  around  us  in  all  its 
freshness  and  beauty.  The  villagers  seemed  to  be  enjoying  their  nar- 
row resources,  happy  in  their  solitudes.  Their  toils  were  suspended  ; 
for  it  was  a  festa,  and  groups  of  the  peasantry,  arrayed  in  their  best 
attire,  exhibited  an  air  of  rustic  contentment.  A  singular  costume 
was  here  for  the  first  time  observed.  The  females  wear  on  the  head 
a  white  napkin,  folded  square,  and  projecting  in  front,  to  shade  the 
face.  Here  also  the  ancient  mode  of  wrapping  children  in  swaddling 
clothes  arrested  our  attention.  It  gives  them  the  appearance  of  mum- 
mies, and  must  be  extremely  injurious  to  health,  producing  a  stag- 
nation of  blood,  and  preventing  a  natural  developement  of  their  limbs- 


LETTERS  FK03I  EUROPE.  73 

The  practice  prevails  among  all  the  lower  classes  in  this  part  of  Italy, 
and  may  be  one  cause  of  a  dwarfish  population. 

These  warm  and  rich  valleys,  extending  far  into  the  bosom  of  the 
Apennines,  are  chiefly  appropriated  to  the  culture  of  corn,  the  olive, 
and  vine.  The  mode  of  cultivating  the  latter  is  peculiar,  forming  a 
striking  feature  in  the  landscape.  It  is  trained  upon  a  tree,  (the  elm 
or  mulberry,)  the  top  of  which  is  shorn  into  the  form  of  an  inverted 
hollow  cone,  four  or  five  feet  in  diameter,  and  ten  or  fifteen  from  the 
ground.  The  wine  is  far  inferior  to  that  of  France,  and  the  French 
mode  of  cultivating  the  grape  is  preferable  to  all  others,  by  exposing 
it  fully  to  the  sun,  and  giving  it  a  chance  to  ripen. 

In  descending  into  Spezia,  the  road  passes  through  extensive  plan- 
tations of  olives,  the  largest  and  finest  I  have  ever  seen,  being  of  the 
size  of  full  grown  apple  trees.  This  plant  is  supposed  to  be  a  native 
of  Palestine,  and  its  abundance  on  the  whole  coast  of  the  Mediterra- 
nean, from  Gibraltar  to  Naples,  forming  a  beautiful  border  of  verdure, 
has  led  to  a  belief  that  the  first  colonists  of  these  shores  were  from 
Judea.  But  such  a  conjecture  carries  us  back  to  as  high  an  anti- 
quity, as  the  Genoese  Bishop  claims  for  his  countrymen.  The  olive 
was  as  prominent  a  product  of  Italy,  at  the  period  when  Virgil  wrote 
his  Georgics,  as  it  is  at  present. 

The  town  of  Spezia  is  delightfully  situated  on  the  Gulf  of  the 
same  name,  spreading  southward  to  the  mouth  of  the  Arno,  and 
bounded  on  the  northwest  by  a  lofty  promontory,  or  more  properly 
one  range  of  the  Apennines,  extending  for  many  miles  along  an  un- 
inhabited coast.  At  the  extremity  of  this  mountain,  the  brow  of 
which  is  crowned  with  a  strong  fortress,  erected  by  the  British  in  1814, 
is  Porto  Venere,  a  spacious  haven  sheltered  from  the  winds  by  the 
surrounding  hills  and  celebrated  for  its  security  even  in  the  time  of  the 
Romans.  Farther  to  the  east  is  the  harbour  of  Spezia,  in  the  ancient 
bay  of  Luna.  Moles  and  other  improvements  were  projected  by  Na- 
poleon, who  intended  to  make  of  it  another  Toulon.  The  town  is 
large  and  populous.  Its  streets  are  finely  paved,  and  were  thronged 
with  genteel  people,  walking  on  a  bright  afternoon  in  their  holyday 
attire.  Here  another  new  costume  was  observed.  The  women  wear 
crimson  headdresses,  ornamented  with  a  profusion  of  ribbons  of  the 
same  colour,  the  reflection  of  which  deepens  the  roseate  hues  of  their 
cheeks.  An  extensive  promenade,  embellished  with  trees,  and  com- 
mauding  a  charming  view  of  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean  for  the 
distance  of  fifty  or  sixty  miles  towards  Leghorn,  has  been  opened  be- 
tween the  gates  of  the  town  and  the  margin  of  the  bay. 

Nothing  can  exceed  the  dcliciousness  of  the  climate — the  serenity 

VOL.  II.  10 


74         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

and  softness  of  the  skies,  the  brightness  of  the  waters,  and  the  pic- 
turesque beauty  of  the  hills,  in  all  this  clysian  region.  At  every  step 
our  senses  v/ere  regaled  with  the  cliarms  of  the  landscape,  and  the 
breathing  odours  of  spring.  In  leaving  Spezia  and  riding  along  the 
margin  of  the  bay,  a  scene  disclosed  itself  to  the  east,  which  baffles 
description,  and  was  absolutely  enchanting.  The  conical  tops  of  the 
Apennines,  covered  with  snow,  and  gilded  with  the  setting  sun,  shot 
up  into  the  blue  firmament  above  a  cloud,  which  draped  the  central 
portions.  It  seemed  almost  like  a  studied  spectacle  in  the  great  thea- 
tre of  Nature,  designed  purposely  for  the  admiration  of  mortals,  with 
the  elements  for  its  scenery.  The  vapour  curled  for  some  minutes  in 
white,  fantastic  wreaths  round  the  peaks,  leaving  at  times  only  specks 
of  the  glaciers  visible,  till  at  length  the  whole  cloud  rose  gradually 
and  concealed  the  mountains. 

At  evening  we  reached  the  Magra,  a  broad  torrent  sweeping  down 
furiously  from  the  Apennines  over  a  bed  formed  of  the  ruins  of  the 
hills.  It  was  the  boundary  between  ancient  Etruria  and  Liguria,  the 
latter  extending  from  this  stream  to  the  Var  in  the  vicinity  of  Nice, 
mentioned  in  a  former  letter.  Its  channel  is  so  wide,  its  shores  so  flat, 
and  its  current  at  certain  seasons  so  impetuous,  that  no  attempts  to 
bridge  it  have  hitherto  been  made.  After  traversing  its  right  bank 
for  some  miles,  we  reached  the  point  where  it  is  forded.  A  group  of 
guides  were  collected  upon  the  strand,  ready  to  conduct  us  across. 
Stripping  off  their  shoes,  stockings,  and  pantaloons,  they  plunged  in, 
one  to  each  horse,  pursuing  a  zig-zag  course  to  keep  upon  the  shoals. 
Another  carriage  led  the  way,  and  ours  followed.  The  water  was  up 
to  the  horses'  sides,  and  so  rapid  as  sensibly  to  bear  the  coach  down 
.  stream.  In  the  obscurity  of  twilight,  in  a  desolate  region,  and  under 
the  protection  of  guides  wholly  unknown  to  us,  tlie  adventure  was 
not  without  some  slight  appreliension,  although  it  might  be  without 
danger.  In  high  floods,  the  torrent  is  crossed  lower  down  in  a  ferry- 
boat. 

On  arriving  at  Sarzana,  situated  a  few  miles  below,  on  the  opposite 
shore,  it  was  found  that  our  fellow  travellers  in  fording  the  Magra  were 
two  gentlemen  from  New- York,  whom  chance  threw  into  company 
with  us,  in  the  bed  of  a  mountain  torrent.  As  they  were  pursuing 
the  same  route  as  ourselves,  with  much  the  same  objects  in  vieAv,  more 
agreeable  associations  and  stronger  ties  than  those  growing  out  of  a 
romantic  incident,  afterwards  brought  us  frequently  in  contact,  much 
to  our  instruction  and  social  enjoyment,  and  it  is  hoped  not  without 
mutual  gratification. 

I  seize  this  opportunity  to  say,  that  the  depth  of  erudition  and 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         75 

strength  of  memory,  whicli  one  of  these  gentlemen  manifested,  struck 
me  with  perfect  astonishment.  Vanity  had  ted  me  to  fancy  myself 
decently  acquainted  with  the  I.atin  and  Greek  classics  ;  but  the  learn- 
ing of  my  friend  made  me  ashamed  of  my  limited  attainments.  If  a 
hill  or  a  stream,  a  plant  or  ruin,  chanced  to  suggest  an  idea  in  a  Ro- 
man historian,  orator,  or  poet,  he  could  not  only  give  me  chapter  and 
verse,  but  repeat  the  passage  in  the  language  of  the  author.  In  the 
course  of  our  rambles,  whole  pages  of  Livy,  Cajsar,  Tacitus,  Ci- 
cero, Virgil,  Horace,  and  the  rest,  were  poured  forth  without  eflbrt, 
as  if  nothing  were  necessary  but  to  hoist  the  floodgates  of  memory. 
1  do  not  recollect  an  individual  within  the  sphere  of  my  observation 
or  reading,  except  perhaps  Charles  James  Fox,  who  could  quote  so 
much  of  Homer ;  yet  this  gentleman  has  all  his  life  been  engaged  in  a 
laborious  profession,  requiring  no  farther  knowledge  of  the  dead  lan- 
guages, than  would  enable  him  to  cite  Grotius,  Bacon,  and  the  Pan- 
dects. If  Eustace  had  met  with  such  a  companion  in  his  "  Classical 
Tour,"  he  might  not  have  subjected  himself  to  the  imputation  of  bor- 
rowing quotations  from  the  books  of  others. 

At  5  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  10th,  we  left  Sarzana.  Of  this 
town  little  was  seen,  except  the  comforts  of  a  decent  hotel,  and  it  is 
believed  there  is  little  to  be  seen,  altliougli  it  claims  a  high  antiquity. 
It  was  badly  lighted  by  a  few  dim  lamps  at  the  time  of  our  entrance, 
and  not  hghted  at  all  at  the  hour  of  our  departure.  In  every  point  of 
view,  it  is  an  unimportant  place,  and  the  Genoese  never  made  a  worse 
bargain,  than  when  they  took  it  in  exchange  for  Leghorn,  excepting 
always  the  commutation  of  a  Republic  for  a  Monarchy.  Sarzana  is 
the  south-eastern  extremity  of  the  dominions  of  the  King  of  Sardinia, 
unless  his  territory  like  his  title  extends  to  Jerusalem. 

In  our  ride  this  morning,  we  passed  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Luni. 
The  country  bordering  both  sides  of  the  road  here  resembles  con- 
tinuous gardens,  exuberant  in  fertility  and  in  the  highest  state  of  im- 
provement. Fields  of  wheat  were  observed  already  in  the  ear,  and 
the  flax  was  in  full  blossom.  From  these  facts  some  idea  may  be  form- 
ed of  the  mildness  of  the  climate  and  the  forwardness  of  the  season. 
In  the  same  parallel  of  latitude  in  our  country,  the  latter  of  tlie  above 
mentioned  products  is  not  sown  so  early  as  the  10th  of  April,  and 
should  it  peep  from  the  ground  for  many  days  after,  it  would  be  nip- 
ped by  frosts. 

At  8  o'clock  we  reached  Prlassa,  and  persuaded  tiie  coachman  to 
pause  half  an  hour  at  the  gate,  to  give  us  an  opportunity  of  looking 
at  the  town.  It  is  beautifully  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Apennines, 
which  rise  in  jjreen  swells  above  it,  and  is  girt  on  all  sides  with  flow- 


76  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

ery  fields.  An  arched  gateway  leads  into  a  spacious  public  square, 
on  one  side  of  which  the  Ducal  Palace,  a  colossal  fabric,  presents  its 
weather-beaten  and  decaying  front.  Our  attention  during  a  short  stay 
was  chiefly  occupied  with  the  marble  shops,  where  ornaments  of  all 
kinds  are  manufactured  in  great  (juantities.  Two  or  three  of  these 
establishments  were  visited  and  the  proprietors  showed  us  whatever 
was  to  be  seen.  The  marble  is  of  a  beautiful  quality,  as  many  of  our 
own  luxurious  countrymen  are  aware.  Carrara,  where  inexhaustible 
quarries  of  it  are  found,  wrought,  and  thence  exported  to  all  parts  of 
the  world,  is  situated  among  the  mountains,  five  miles  from  Massa. 
It  was  our  wish  to  visit  this  great  manufactory  ;  but  the  vetturino 
could  not  be  driven  from  his  route,  as  the  digression  was  not  in  the 
bond.  Here  are  forged  many  of  the  gods  and  goddesses,  heroes  'and 
poets,  who  are  rough  hewn  from  the  mountains,  and  subsequently  put 
on  board  of  transports  for  Rome,  or  Florence,  to  be  retouched  and 
sold  by  the  first  artists.  It  is  believed,  that  many  of  them  are  made  to 
order  by  apprentices,  and  shipped  for  other  countries,  without  ever 
having  navigated  the  waters  of  the  Arno  or  Tiber.  But  so  that  the 
world  admires,  where  is  the  difference  ? — Carrara  is  the  school  for  all 
young  artists,  and  for  all  the  drudges  of  the  profession. 

At  the  old  town  of  Pietra  Santa,  situate  on  a  low,  marshy  plain, 
some  eight  or  ten  miles  farther  on,  we  were  compelled  to  stop  two 
hours  or  more,  while  our  fellow-citizens  and  fellow-travellers  whipped 
by  alia  posta^  at  the  rate  of  at  least  ten  knots.  A  tolerable  breakfast 
was  obtained  at  a  hotel,  which  Madam  Starke  has  proscribed,  under 
the  double  charge  of  bad  air  and  bad  water,  two  items  never  forgotten 
in  her  book,  and  in  which  she  is  perhaps  the  greatest  connoisseur 
living.  There  is  not  a  stream,  fountain,  spring,  or  well  in  Italy,  from 
tlie  sacred  brook  of  Egeria,  down  to  the  humble  cistern,  which  she 
has  not  tasted  and  put  to  the  test,  minutely  recording  her  experience 
for  the  benefit  of  mankind.  It  is  but  an  act  of  justice,  however,  to  re- 
mark, that  her  book  contains  what  its  titlepage  imports — "  Informa- 
tion to  Travellers" — a  recommendation  to  which  some  others  have  a 
less  undoubted  claim. 

During  our  tedious  pause  at  Pietra  Santa,  we  strolled  through  the 
silent  streets  of  the  town,  and  examined  two  or  three  of  the  churches, 
•which  smell  of  the  neighbouring  shop  at  Carrara,  but  perhaps  deserve 
credit  on  the  score  of  patriotism,  for  displaying  a  profusion  of  those 
ornaments,  which  the  district  so  abundantly  supplies.  They  are  ex- 
tremely rich  in  marbles  of  a  beautiful  quality.  Even  the  organ  in  one 
©fthem  is  supported  by  four  magnificent  columns,  cut  from  solid  blocks, 
and  the  pillars  of  the  nave  are  equally  massive  and  splendid.     The 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        77 

show  of  pictures  is  scanty  and  mean  ;  but  in  the  brilhancy  of  altars, 
and  the  finery  of  Saints  and  Madonnas,  these  village  churcnes  will 
bear  a  comparison  with  those  of  Genoa,  if  that  be  any  credit  to  them. 

Onward  from  this  town,  we  traversed  another  delicious  plain,  where 
our  senses  were  surfeited  with  perfumes  and  the  luxuriance  of  the  land- 
scape. From  a  high  and  solitary  ridge  of  the  Apennines,  a  good-night 
was  waved  to  the  Gulf  of  Spezia,  slumbering  along  its  green  and  quiet 
shores.  Thence  the  coachman,  taking  a  hint  from  his  vehicle,  whicli 
in  speed  was  likely  to  outstrip  his  horses,  hurried  us  down  a  steep  de- 
clivity into  thebaic  of  the  Serchio,  winding  through  a  wide  and  ver- 
dant champain,"^under  the  walls  of  Lucca.  This  stream  is  more  like  a 
river,  or  in  other  words,  less  like  a  torrent,  than  any  one  that  had  been 
seen  since  leaving  France.  It  rolls  on  through  its  gay  and  flowery 
borders  with  a  broad,  rapid,  but  silent  current.  From  its  bridge,  a 
straight,  spacious  avenue,  lined  with  trees,  leads  to  the  gates  of  the 
city.  ^ 

The  fields  on  either  hand  are  so  many  gardens,  every  foot  of  which 
is  manured  and  cultivated  to  the  highest  degree,  by  an  overstocked 
population.  Not  a  tendril  of  the  vine,  not  a  plant,  nor  a  blade  of  corn 
is  suffered  to  be  out  of  its  place,  or  to  occupy  more  ground  than 
is  just  suflicient  for  its  support.  The  peasantry  of  both  sexes  are  al- 
ways in  the  fields,  sometimes  apparently  only  to  watch  the  growth  of 
of  plants  under  their  charge,  which  they  feed  and  nurse  with  more  care^^ 
than  they  do  their  children.  They  mix  manure  with  water  in  casks, 
forming  a  sort  of  nutritious  pap,  which  they  ladle  out  daily  in  exact 
proportions,  for  the  food  of  vegetables.  To  the  American  farmer,  who 
is  lord  of  his  hundred  or  his  thousand  acres,  this  exactness  might  seem 
a  trifling  occujjation ;  but  here  it  is  absolutely  necessary,  that  every 
rood  should  maintain  its  man.  It  would  take  but  few  farms,  such  as  are 
found  in  the  interior  of  New-York,  to  cover  the  whole  Duchy  of  Lucca, 
which  contains  only  320  square  miles,  more  than  half  of  which  consists 
of  barren  mountains,  incapable  of  tillage.  Yet  this  territory  has  a  po- 
pulation of  120,000,  who  depend  chiefly  on  the  cultivation  of  the  soil 
for  support.  The  richness  of  the  landscape  bears  ample  testimony  to 
their  honest  industry,  and  to  the  utmost  nicety  in  the  mode  of  culture. 
Females  who  never  saw  festoons  of  silk  or  damask,  are  engaged  in  ad- 
justing festoons  of  vines,  stretching  from  tree  to  tree  in  waving  and 
graceful  wreaths. 

After  a  slight  examination  of  our  passports  and  baggage,  with  an  . 
inquiry  whether  our  trunks    contained   any  contraband    articles,  we 
were  permitted  to   pass  under  the  stately  arch  which  opens  through 
the  walls  of  liUcca.     Passing  through  several  narrow  but  well  paved 


78         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  ^ 

streets,  the  vetturino  set  us  down  in  a  dirty  court,  filled  with  coaches 

C  and  groups  of  his  own  brethren.  As  the  interior  of  the  tavern-  was 
almost  as  dirty  as  the  outside,  we  ordered  our  luggage  to  be  taken  to 
the  Hotel  de  TEurope,  where  excellent  accommodations  were  obtain- 
ed, though  at  ratlier  an  extravagant  price.  The  saloon  was  furnished  with 
handsome  carpets  and  sofas,  and  the  walls  were  hung  with  so  many 
paintings  of  no  ordinary  merit,  as  to  constitute  quite  a  gallery,  with  the 
convenience  of  being  examined  while  sipping  a  dish  of  tea. 

'^  A  considerable  fragment  of  the  afternoon  yet  remained,  and  as  an 
economy  of  time  was  an  object  with  us,  dinner  was  postponed  till 
evening,  and  a  cicerone  immediately  put  in  requisition  to  show  us  the 
city.  He  conducted  us  first  to  the  church  of  St.  Dominica,  which  is 
a  stately  edifice,  rich  in  marbles,  and  containing  some  good  pictures. 
The  ceiling  and  pavement  are  both  splendid.     Many  votaries  were 

^  kneeling  at  the  altars,  gazing  with  a  steadfast  eye  at  the  image  of  some 
saint,  and  whispering  a  prayer.  Particular  care  was  taken  on  our 
part  never  to  disturb  these  acts  of  devotion,  though  the  valets-de-placc 
step  up  without  hesitation,  and  begin  to  talk  aloud  of  the  merits  of  a 
painting,  before  which  some  votary  is  bending  the  knee,  fixed  like  a 

\,  statue  upon  the  pavement.  The  Lucchese  are  ultra  religious,  through 
the  influence  and  example  of  the  late  Dutchess,  who  was  an  enthusiast 
and  devotee,  not  to  say  a  bigot.  During  her  life,  her  son,  the  present 
Duke,  who  is  now  perhaps  at  the  age  of  three  and  twenty,  was  tied  to 
her  apron-strings  and  kept  under  wholesome  restraints.  If  report 
speaks  true,  he  is  now  fast  verging  to  the  other  extreme,  disregarding 
the  lessons  of  his  deceased  mother. 

Our  next  visit  was  to  the  Cathedral,  a  Gothic  edifice  of  the  eleventh  or 
twelfth  century,  stately,  spacious,  and  rich  in  its  multiphcity  of  arches 
and  pillars.  Its  pavement  is  a  splendid  mosaic  of  different  marbles. 
x\n  antique  tabernacle,  loaded  with  arrabesque  ornaments,  filled  with 
relics  and  votive  offerings,  occupies  the  centre  of  the  nave.  Round 
the  walls  are  several  sepulchral  monuments,  among  which  is  the  tomb 
of  Adalbert,  ancestor  of  the  House  of  Este  and  of  the  Brunswicks, 
kings  of  England.  In  the  dim  twilight  of  the  church,  it  was  impossi- 
ble to  decipher  the  long  epitaph,  inscribed  in  the  old  Saxon  character 
upon  the  sarcophagus. 

Calls  were  made  at  two  other  churches,  St.  Giovanni,  and  St.  Ma- 
ria. In  the  former,  a  crowd  were  engaged  in  chanting  their  vespers  ; 
in  the  latter,  are  two  good  pictures,  one  by  Titian,  and  the  other  by 
Guercino.  The  Ducal  Palace  is  a  large  edifice,  destitute  of  orna- 
ment, fronting  a  spacious  public  square,  on  which  a  statue  to  one  of 
the  Bourbons  has  latelv  been  erected.     Lucca  is  a  well  built  citv. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         70 

The  liouscs  are  generally  plain,  but  substantial,  indicating  a  taste  for 
simplicity  and  comfort,  which  characterised  its  inhabitants  during  the 
happy  days  of  the  Republic.  Even  now,  although  the  late  revolution 
has  wrought  many  changes  for  the  worse,  their  manners  retain  a  spirit 
of  activity,  industry  and  cleanhness.  In  walking  through  their  streets, 
crowded  with  a  population  of  :iO,000,  1  do  not  recollect  to  have  been 
beset  by  beggars  in  a  single  instance — a  rare  phenomenon  in  any  part 
of  Italy  I  have  yet  seen. 

Between  sunset  and  daik,  we  walked  quite  round  the  ramparts — a 
circuit  of  about  three  miles.  It  is  a  charming  promenade.  The 
walls  are  built  of  brick  fifteen  feet  high,  with  regular  bastions,  like  a 
fortress,  and  girt  by  moats.  At  top  they  are  covered  with  earth, 
planted  with  groves  of  elms  and  poplars,  with  a  carriage  road  in  the 
centre,  and  side-paths  for  pedestrians.  This  is  the  ordifiary  Cor  so  of 
the  citizens,  where  from  their  coaches  they  can  look  abroatl  upon  their 
little  green  dominions,  as  well  as  upon  their  distant  mountains.  The 
coronet  of  foliage,  encircling  the  antique  towers  of  the  city,  has  a 
a  peculiarly  picturesque  eifect.  At  the  close  of  his  third  campaign 
in  Gaul,  Caesar  went  mto  winter  quarters  at  Lucca,  whither  Pompey 
and  Crassus,  followed  by  a  considerable  part  of  the  Roman  Senate, 
repaired  to  meet  him.  It  was  not  difficult  for  the  imagination,  while 
musing  at  twilight  upon  the  ancient  ramparts,  to  summon  up  the 
spirits  of  other  ages,  and  to  fancy  the  picture  which  the  city  must  have 
presented,  when  it  was  thronged  with  the  legions  of  the  conqueror, 
and  with  the  splendid  equipages  of  the  masters  of  the  world. 

Early  next  morning,  while  breakfast  was  preparing,  we  again  ram- 
bled over  the  town,  anxious  to  improve  every  moment  of  a  short  stay. 
While  walking  through  the  crowded  market  place,  I  witnessed  a  scene 
which  was  entirely  new  to  me.  In  a  splendid  caleche,  with  two  "^ 
mouse-coloured  horses,  richly  caparisoned  with  tassels  and  featliers, 
an  itinerant  quack  was  standing  up  like  an  auctioneer,  crying  his  drugs 
for  sale,  and  tendering  his  medical  services  to  the  crowd.  He  had  a 
stentorian  voice,  and  his  fingers  were  covered  with  half  a  dozen  mas- 
sive rings,  which  are  worn  by  all  classes  of  the  Italians,  from  the  no- 
bleman down  to  his  boot-black.  The  doctor  did  not  seem  to  lack 
patients.  He  extracted  twenty  teeth  in  as  many  minutes,  and  there  i 
was  no  want  of  bids  for  his  medicines  among  the  multitude.  "^J 

At  8  o'clock,  we  resumed  our  journey  towards  Pisa,  distant  onjv 
twelve  miles  from  Lucca.  The  road  traverses  a  beautiful  plain,  pass- 
ing between  an  insulated  range  of  mountains  on  the  left,  and  the 
Serchio  on  the  right.  On  entering  Tuscany,  a  fee  of  four  francs  v.a? 
exacted  of  us.  bv  wav  of  initiation.     Our  passports  underwent  a  slighi 


J 


so         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

examination,  but  our  trunks  were  not  opened.  Few  vexations  have 
been  experienced  from  custom  house  officers,  since  arriving  at  Genoa. 

A  few  miles  from  the  Tuscan  borders,  we  passed  the  Baths  of  Pisa, 
situated  at  the  base  of  Mount  Julian,  whence  issue  tepid  and  copious 
fountains.  A  handsome  village  has  sprung  up  round  this  celebrated 
watering-place,  which  is  much  frequented  by  invahds  from  all  parts  of 
Italy.  The  number  in  summer  often  amounts  to  six  or  eight  hundred 
at  a  time.  Opposite  the  Baths,  a  large  building  called  the  Casina, 
capable  of  accommodating  all  the  visitants,  has  been  erected  by  a 
company,  and  the  prices  of  board  and  lodging  estabhshed  at  a  low 
rate,  not  exceeding  half  a  dollar  a  day. 

From  this  point  onward,  the  road  is  bordered  on  one  side  by  an 
aqueduct,  which  supplies  Pisa  with  water.  The  declivity  from  the 
foot  of  Mount  Julian  is  so  gentle  and  uniform,  that  nothing  more  has 
been  necessary  than  an  open  channel,  excavated  in  a  light  soil,  at  a 
small  expense.  It  is  filled  with  a  stream  sufficiently  copious  to  be 
used  as  a  canal,  on  which  small  boats  were  seen  dragged  against  the 
current  by  females,  while  robust  men  were  acting  the  subordinate  part 
of  riding  and  directing  the  helm ! 


LETTERS  FROM  EUHOPi:.  81 

LETTER  LI. 

SKETCH    OF     VISA BANKS    OF   THE  ARNO — BRIDOES LEAMNCi   TOWER 

ANCIENT     PORT CATHEOEAL BAPTISTRY CAMPO     SANTO 

CUORCIIES SANTA  MARIA   DELLA    SPINA BOTANIC    GARDEN UNI- 
VERSITY  TUEATRE — EXCURSION     TO    LEOIIORN — SKETCH     OF    THE 

TOWN  AND  HARBOt'R. 

April,  1826. 

Pisa  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  an  extensive  plain,  stietcliing  from  tlic 
base  of  the  Apennines  to  the  sea  at  Leghorn,  a  distance  of  not  less  than 
twenty  miles.  It  stands  so  low,  and  is  so  hidden  by  its  woody  envi- 
rons, as  not  to  appear  to  advantage  from  any  quarter,  the  assertions 
of  certain  travellers  to  the  contrary  notwithstandii?g.  We  were  close 
under  its  walls,  before  the  celebrated  Leaning  Tower,  the  dome  of 
the  Cathedral,  and  the  Gothic  pinnacles  of  the  Baptistry  could  be 
seen  overtopping  the  ramparts  and  rising  behind  a  curtain  of  trees. 
The  lofty  arched  gate-way,  the  antique  walls  overgrown  with  shrub- 
bery, and  the  complexion  of  the  buildings,  give  a  venerable  aspect  to 
the  city,  deepened  by  its  comparative  depopulation  and  silence.  Our 
entrance  was  at  noon-day  through  some  of  the  principal  streets,  which 
are  neatly  paved,  with  spacious  side-walks  and  lined  with  arcades. 
Few  people  were  seen,  and  in  fact  there  are  few  in  the  town.  Its  pre- 
sent population  does  not  exceed  eighteen  or  twenty  thousand,  scatter- 
ed over  a  space  five  or  six  miles  in  circuit,  which  in  the  glorious  days 
of  the  Republic  contained  150,000  inhabitants.  A  sort  of  languor 
and  inactivity  seems  to  characterize  those  that  remain,  who  are  scarce- 
ly sufficient  to  guard  and  preserve  the  wreck  of  former  splendour. 

The  first  glance  at  the  Arno,  second  only  perhaps  among  the  Italian 
rivers  to  the  Tiber  in  celebrity,  was  extremely  interesting,  although  it 
is  far  from  being  either  a  grand  or  beautiful  stream.  It  is  here  per- 
haps a  hundred  yards  in  breadth.  The  water  is  shoal,  sluggish,  and 
so  turbid  with  clay  as  entirely  to  destroy  its  original  complexion.  It 
sweeps  through  the  heart  of  the  city,  with  a  bold  and  rather  graceful 
curve.  On  both  sides  are  embankments  and  quays  of  hewn  stone,  ^ 
like  those  of  the  Seine,  to  which  they  are  scarcely  inferior  in  exact 
masonry.  Three  stately  bridges  are  thrown  across  the  current  at 
nearly  equal  distances.  The  one  in  the  centre  is  of  white  marble, 
and  claims  as  much  celebrity  for  the  beauty  of  its  proportions,  as  for  ^ 
the  richness  of  its  materials.  On  this  bridge,  once  in  every  three 
years,  a  combat  takes  place  in  honour  of  St.  Raniere,  the  patron 

VOL.  ir.  1 1 


fci2  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

of  the  town,  and  in  imitation  of  the  Elian  Games,  in  the  Pelopon- 
nesus, whence  Pisa  claims  to  derive  both  its  name  and  its  origin, 
boasting  of  old  Nestor,  the  Pylian  sage,  for  its  founder.  These  com- 
bats are  sometimes  fatal  to  the  champions,  who  like  the  ancient 
gladiators,  die  for  the  amusement  of  the  assembled  multitude. 

The  two  handsomest  streets  in  town  are  the  Lung'  Arno^  extend- 
ing along  the  quays,  open  to  the  river  on  one  side,  and  lined  with 
ranges  of  rather  splendid  buildings  on  the  other.  Next  the  water,  the 
street  is  guarded  by  a  wall,  breast  high.  As  there  are  few  boats  on 
the  river,  and  none  lie  along  the  quays,  they  exhibit  nothing  of  the 
noise,  bustle,  lumber,  and  filth  of  ordinary  wharves  in  a  commercial 
city.  They  are  both  clean  and  tranquil,  enjoying  a  free  air,  present- 
ing a  pretty  prospect,  and  affording  on  the  whole  an  eligible,  as  well 
as  fashionable  residence.  A  spacious  hotel,  situated  upon  one  of  these 
streets,  charges  about  double  the  prices  of  others  more  retired,  but 
perhaps  equal  in  accommodations. 

In  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  after  our  arrival,  we  were  upon  the  top  of 
the  Leaning  Tower,  at  the  height  of  190  feet  from  the  ground.  The 
ascent  by  means  of  spiral  flights  of  steps,  winding  up  in  the  inte- 
rior, is  less  arduous  and  fatiguing  than  might  be  supposed.  This 
tower  was  to  us  a  perfect  novelty,  both  in  design  and  construction. 
It  is  the  belfry  {^Campanile)  to  the  Cathedral,  though  standing  several 
rods  from  it,  and  erected  at  a  subsequent  period.  Its  form  is  circular, 
perhaps  thirty  feet  in  diameter  at  the  base,  slightly  tapering  towards 
the  top,  eight  stories  high,  and  built  of  white  marble.  The  style  of 
architecture  is  mixed,  and  scarcely  reducible  to  any  of  the  settled 
orders.  All  the  stories  except  the  uppermost,  are  girt  with  open  gal- 
leries, composed  of  pillars  and  arches,  presenting  the  most  hght,  airy, 
and  fanciful  piece  of  fret-work  imaginable.  The  seventh  story  con- 
tains a  chime  of  bells  ;  and  the  eighth  is  left  open,  guarded  by  an  iron 
balustrade. 

But  the  greatest  curiosity  about  this  tower  is  its  inclination.  It 
nods  towards  the  south-east,  by  a  variation  from  a  perpendicular  at  top 
of  about  fourteen  feet;  and  another  slight  jog  would  throw  it  without 
the  centre  of  gravity.  To  the  spectator,  as  the  clouds  swim  by,  it  real- 
ly appears  in  the  attitude  of  falling.  It  has,  however,  stood  in  this  po- 
sition for  six  centuries,  and  may,  perhaps,  stand  as  many  more  ;  though 
a  moderate  shock  of  an  earthquake  would  apparently  rock  it  from  its 
base,  and  prostrate  its  enormous  load  of  marbles  upon  a  block  of  houses 
directly  under  it.  Its  inclination  has  given  rise  to  various  speculations. 
Some  have  supposed  it  was  originally  constructed  in  this  way  as  an 
arciiitectural  ctiriosily.     Others  believe,  that  while  it  was  in  progress. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         83 

the  ground  gave  way,  causing  the  inclination  ;  and  that  anolhor  story, 
leaning  in  a  contrary  direction,  was  subsequently  added,  by  way  of  a 
balance,  to  keep  it  from  falling.  But  what  kind  of  a  philosopher  ninsl 
the  architect  have  been  to  place  a  heavy  weight  in  any  position,  upon 
the  top  of  a  structure,  to  prevent  it  from  tumbling  ?  In  niv  opinion, 
the  subject  does  not  admit  of  a  doubt.  On  examining  the  base,  the 
lower  tier  of  stones  was  found  above  ground  on  one  side,  and  sunk  into 
the  earth  on  the  other.  Now,  unless  the  whole  was  intended  as  a 
curious  deception,  the  foundations  would  not  have  been  thus  planted. 
From  the  top  of  the  tower,  we  had  an  enchanting  view  of  Pisa,  and 
of  the  broad  plain  by  which  it  is  encircled,  all  green,  bright,  and  love- 
ly as  the  landscape  was  at  this  season.  Towards  the  northwest  and 
north,  the  Apennines,  dim  with  distance,  rise  in  amphitheatric  pride 
round  the  Gulf  of  Spezia  ;  eastward.  Mount  Julian  rears  its  woody 
summits ;  and  to  the  south-west,  the  eye  traces  the  windings  of  the 
Arno  through  its  luxuriant  borders,  till  its  waters  mingle  with  the  sea. 
Farther  to  the  south,  glimpses  of  Leghorn,  and  of  one  or  two  moun- 
tainous islands  beyond,  heaving  their  chalky  cliffs  above  the  waves, 
complete  the  magnificence  of  the  picture. 

Such  variety  and  softness  of  scenery,  added  to  the  interesting  fea- 
tures of  the  old  town  at  our  feet,  and  to  the  delicious  mildness  of  the 
day,  chained  us  for  an  hour  to  the  spot,  with  the  cicerone  all  the  while 
chattering  his  well  conned  tale.  He  pointed  out,  by  way  of  episode, 
the  site  of  the  ancient  port  of  Pisa,  where  perchance  old  Nestor  land- 
ed, or  Ulysses  came  to  anchor  for  the  night,  in  his  erratic  voyage  along 
these  shores.  Certain  it  is,  that  here  in  the  eleventh,  twelfth,  and  thir- 
teenth centuries,  the  Pisan  gallies  rode  in  triumph,  hoisting  the  flags 
of  vanquished  nations,  and  wafting  home  from  Parian  quarries,  or  the 
ruins  of  oriental  cities,  perhaps  the  very  marbles  which  now  elevated 
us  to  the  skies.  But  with  this  once  glorious  republic,  "  the  days  of 
chivalry  are  gone."  Its  port  is  choked  with  mud,  and  the  wind  sighs 
through  the  reeds,  which  rustle  above  its  buried  navies. 

But  it  behooves  me  to  descend  from  this  unpremeditated  flight,  as 
well  as  from  the  giddy  tower  to  which  my  readers  will  please  to  as- 
cribe it,  with  as  much  haste,  and  as  much  decency  as  possible.  The 
Cathedral  is  such  a  colossal,  irregular,  and  unmanageable  pile,  that 
one  hardly  knows  at  which  end  to  commence  a  description.  But  to 
begin,  where  the  architects  probably  did,  with  tiic  foundations  :  it  is 
elevated  on  substructions  several  feet  above  the  surrounding  area,  and 
the  ascent  to  it  is  by  five  steps  composed  of  enormous  marble  slab?. 
The  edifice  is  all  of  stone,  porous,  and  remarkal)le  for  beauty.  It  is  a 
huge  mass  of  mixed  materials,  thrown  promiscuously  together,  in  a 


84         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

style  of  architecture,  which  the  Italians  call  Moorish  or  Saracenic  Go- 
thic, in  contradistinction  to  that  from  Germany.  Its  sides  are  three 
stories,  retreating  inward,  embellished  with  a  profusion  of  pillars  and 
arches,  and  the  whole  surmounted  by  pinnacles  and  statues.  The  ends 
are  five  stories,  or  rather  consist  of  five  ranges  of  pillars  and  arches, 
finished  in  the  same  style.  Many  of  the  columns  are  of  oriental  gra- 
nite and  porphyry,  and  some  of  them  claim  to  be  of  Egyptian  and  Ro- 
man origin,  thus  exhibited  as  national  trophies,  at  a  period  when  the 
Republic  was  fast  rising  to  the  zenith  of  its  glory,  in  the  middle  of  the 
eleventh  century.  The  church  is  in  the  shape  of  a  cross,  with  a  large 
dome  at  the  point  of  intersection,  which,  however,  does  not  show  to 
much  advantage.  Its  massive  doors  are  of  bronze,  beautifully  wrought 
and  representing  in  bas-relief  sacred  scenes  from  the  scriptures. 

The  inside  is  as  rich  and  as  complex  in  its  ornaments,  as  the  exte- 
rior.    Double  aisles,  formed  by  four  rows  of  granite  columns,  of  the 
Corinthian  order,  extend  in  long  perspective  on  the  sides  of  the  nave. 
The  high  altar,  enriched  with  porphyry  pillars,  lapis  lazuli,  and  precious 
stones  of  all  descriptions,  occupies  the  head  of  the  cross.     On  a  gild- 
ed canopy  above  it,  three   monstrous  black  figures,  misnamed  angels, 
with  their  goggle  eyes  stare  the  spectator  out  of  countenance  ;  and 
below,  a  pretty  little  bronze  cherub,  with  its  spread   pinions  and  sym- 
metrical form,  is  degraded  into  the  servile  office  of  candle-holder  to  the 
priest.     At   the  extremities  of  the  transepts,  are  two  other  shrines 
scarcely  inferior  to  this  in  splendour,  and  in  no  wise  superior  in  taste. 
The  roof  is  flat,  divided   into  pannels,  and  highly  gilt,  reflecting  its 
golden  hues  upon  the  Mosaic   pavement.     One   column  of  porphyry 
and  one  of  Spanish  marble  support  the  pulpit — a  perfect  sample  of 
the  wanton  mixture  of  ornaments  in  the  whole  edifice.     The  walls  are 
hung  with  paintings,  which  cannot  be  seen  to  any  advantage,  owing  to 
the  dimness  of  the  aisles.  We  examined  every  one  of  them,  while  wait- 
ing for  a  group  of  chanting  canons  to  leave  their  stalls  at  the  high  al- 
tar ;  but  the  collection  afforded  me  little  pleasure,  and  a  description 
would  afford  still  less  to  my  readers.     Unlike  most  of  the  galleries  at 
Genoa,  the  subjects  of  two  thirds  of  them  are  poetical  allegories,  and 
have  no  connexion  with  religion. 

The  Baptistry  to  the  Cathedral  is  another  separate  building,  flank- 
ing it  on  one  side,  as  theCampanile  does  on  the  other.  It  is  a  magnifi- 
cent rotunda,  enriched  with  pillars  and  arches,  rising  range  above  range, 
in  the  same  style  of  architecture,  as  the  primary  edifice  of  which  this 
is  one  of  the  satellites.  The  roof  is  covered  with  innumerable  pin- 
nacles and  statues,  amidst  which  the  dome  swells  to  a  still  loftier  height, 
surmounted  by  the  image  of  St.  John  the  Baptist,  the  presiding  saint. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         85 

It  was  erected  a  century  after  the  Cathedral,  by  the  voluntary  sub- 
scriptions of  the  Pisans.  The  interior  is  a  grand,  rich,  and  splendid 
temple.  A  circle  of  eight  massive  columns  of  Sardinian  granite,  hewn 
from  single  blocks,  rise  from  the  mosaic  pavement,  to  the  height  of 
perhaps  thirty  or  forty  feet.  Above  these,  sixteen  marble  pillars,  dis- 
pv^acd  in  double  ranges,  support  the  dome  springing  from  their  capi- 
tals. The  front  is  elevated  several  feet  above  the  pavement,  and  approach- 
ed by  a  flight  of  steps.  It  is  of  an  octagonal  shape,  divided  into  five  com- 
partments, the  central  one  being  large  and  designed  for  adults,  and  the 
four  smaller  ones  round  the  circumference  for  children.  The  pulpit  or 
reading  desk  rests  on  a  circlet  of  ten  granitic  columns,  and  its  pannels 
are  adorned  with  bfls-relief,  portraying  the  leading  events  in  the  life  of 
the  Saviour.  Among  the  less  interesting  curiosities  of  the  building,  is 
an  unusually  perfect  echo,  together  with  a  whispering  gallery.  I  held 
my  watch,  while  the  cicerone  strained  his  lungs,  and  found  the  rever- 
berations of  his  voice  to  be  distinctly  heard  for  ten  seconds. 

The  Cavipo  Santo,  or  Cemetery,  is  tiie  last,  though  in  no  respect 
the  least  of  this  celebrated  group  of  edifices.  It  is  a  long  parallelo- 
gram, situated  a  few  yards  in  the  rear  of  the  Cathedral,  the  Leaning 
Tower,  and  the  Baptistry,  which  range  nearly  in  a  right  line.  The 
history  of  it  seems  to  be  briefly  as  follows.  In  one  of  the  crusades  to 
the  Holy  Land,  the  Pisan  galleys  brought  home  large  quantities  of  the 
consecrated  soil,  which  was  here  strewed  to  the  depth  often  feet,  and 
which  is  said  to  possess  the  peculiar  properties  of  decomposing  bodies 
in  the  short  space  of  forty-eight  hours!  Round  this  deposit  of  holy 
earth,  thence  denominated  Campo  Santo,  or  sacred  field,  ranges  of 
white  marble  cloisters  were  erected  in  the  twelfth  century.  They  con- 
sist of  beautiful  arcades,  perhaps  ten  feet  in  breadth  and  fifteen  or 
twenty  feet  in  height,  with  a  blind  wall  on  the  outer  side,  and  lateral 
windows,  or  more  properly  arches,  looking  inwardly  to  a  spacious 
court  open  at  top. 

Over  the  entrance  is  a  statue  of  the  Virgin,  and  a  group  of  devotees, 
in  the  act  of  bending  the  knee  in  adoration,  among  whom  the  artist  has 
taken  the  liberty  of  giving  himself  a  conspicuous  station.  The  clois- 
ters are  paved  entirely  with  tombstones,  consisting  of  white  marble 
slabs,  inscribed  with  almost  roods  of  epitaphs.  Six  hundred  families 
of  the  Pisan  nobility  sleep  beneath,  besides  much  untitled  dust  ;  for 
the  cemetery  was  originally  the  only  one  in  the  city.  The  stuccoed 
walls  are  divided  into  compartments,  and  covered  with  fresco  paint- 
ings nearly  coeval  with  the  edifice  itself,  and  strongly  illustrative  of 
the  history  of  the  art.  Among  these  is  a  delineation  of  Dante's  Hell, 
in  which  devils  and  mortals  are  seen  sprawling  about  in  all  possible 
attitudes.     Proud  piles  of  monumental  marble,  sarcophagi,  and  busts. 


86         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

together  with  Greek,  Roman,  Egyptian,  and  Italian  antiquities  crowd 
the  galleries,  rendering  them  not  less  a  school  for  artists,  than  a  de- 
pository of  the  dead.  In  this  respect  the  Campo  Santo  is  much  su- 
perior to  Westminster  Abbey,  though  its  moral  associations  were  to 
us  far  less  interesting. 

The  Archbishop's  Palace  and  other  stately  buildings,  front  upon  the 
square  of  the  Cathedral,  presenting  not  a  single  mean  object  to  de- 
tract from  its  grandeur.  In  the  vicinity  stands  the  church  of  St.  Ste- 
phen, the  interior  of  which  dazzles  the  eye  with  the  richness  and  bril- 
liancy of  its  embellishments.  Near  this  place,  our  guide  pointed  out 
the  prison  of  Ugolino,  whose  confinement  and  starvation  by  the  aspi- 
ring Prelate  are  sung  in  one  of  the  episodes  of  Dante.  In  our  ram- 
bles over  Pisa,  we  called  at  several  other  churches.  The  floods  of  the 
Arno  on  one  occasion  produced  such  a  deluge,  that  the  inhabitants 
rode  to  the  High  Altar  of  St.  Francis  in  boats,  floating  about  among 
the  pillars  of  its  aisles. 

The  most  interesting  building,  next  to  those  above  described,  is  the 
church  of  St.  Maria  della  Spina,  so  called  from  a  tradition,  that  a  thorn 
from  the  crown  of  the  Saviour  is  among  its  relics.  It  is  almost  another 
Santa  Casa,  so  tiny  and  light  that  it  might  apparently  have  been  borne 
hither  from  Palestine  or  some  other  oriental  clime,  by  less  potent  be- 
ings than  angels.  Its  dimensions  do  not  exceed  forty  feet  in  length 
by  twenty  in  breadth,  one  story  high,  and  crowned  v/ith  a  profusion  of 
little  Gothic  pinnacles.  The  pillars  without  number  are  of  all  possi- 
ble orders  of  architecture.  Its  front  is  adorned  with  small  statuea  of 
the  Saviour  and  his  twelve  Disciples,  and  scores  of  saints  perch  among 
the  turrets  above.  The  Madonna,  who  was  supposed  to  possess  pe- 
cuhar  virtues,  has  been  removed  and  placed  in  a  more  conspicuous 
situation,  over  the  arched  entrance  of  the  most  frequented  street  in  the 
city,  that  her  sphere  of  influence  might  be  enlarged.  This  unique 
and  fantastic  structure  is  of  black  and  white  marble,  striped  like  the 
Cathedral  at  Genoa.  It  is  said  to  have  been  built  in  the  13th  century. 
Its  position,  upon  the  left  bank  of  the  Arno,  standing  on  the  very  brink, 
and  insulated  from  all  other  buildings,  gives  prominence  to  its  oddities. 
When  it  was  first  seen  across  the  river,  it  was  not  suspected  of  being 
a  church.  It  really  looks,  as  if  it  might  have  been  brought  in  a  Pisan 
galley,  and  here  set  ashore  a?  the  most  convenient  landing  place. 

I  visited  the  large  Botanic  Garden,  forming  an  appendage  to  the 
University.  Its  compartments  are  extensive,  and  tolerably  well  filled 
with  exotics,  as  well  as  with  native  plants.  Artificial  mounts  have 
been  constructed,  and  clothed  with  evergreens,  which  add  to  the  va- 
riety of  the  enclosure.  One  striking  peculiarity  arrested  my  atten- 
tion : — the  alleys  are  all  paved  like  so  many  streets,  for  the  conve- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         87 

nience  of  treading  tiiciii  in  wet  weather.  Such  an  improvement  is 
much  more  conducive  to  health  than  to  correct  taste.  It  destroys  in 
a  great  measure  the  rusticity  a  d  beauty  of  the  garden. 
y^  As  to  the  University  itself,  once  so  celebrated,  and  which  still 
boasts  of  its  scholars,  I  could  not  learn  that  it  contains  any  thing  worth 
seeing  or  hearing.  It  has  declined  with  the  other  interests  of  the 
city,  till  it  has  become  the  shadow  of  what  it  once  was,  and  the  pro- 
fessors outnumber  the  students.  The  former  are  at  present  engaged 
in  a  high  literary  quarrel,  respecting  the  construction  of  a  line  in 
Dante,  whose  obscurities,  like  those  of  Shakspeare,  probably  in  both 
cases  arising  from  blunders,  open  a  glorious  field  for  commentators. 
Several  paper  shots,  in  the  form  of  pamphlets,  have  already  been  ex- 
changed ;  and  I  am  informed  that  one  of  the  combatants  has  chal- 
lenged his  antagonist  to  meet  him  with  less  harmless  weapons,  v 

We  attended  the  theatre  one  evening — the  first  that  had  been  visited 
in  Italy.  The  building  is  large  and  handsomely  finished,  in  the  style  of 
an  Opera  House,  witii  four  tiers  of  boxes,  each  designed  to  accommodate 
three  persons.  Gilded  galleries,  frescos,  and  chandeliers  rendered  the 
coup  d'oeil  rather  brilliant.  The  scenery,  dresses,  and  decorations 
were  respectable.  Although  the  piece  for  the  evening  was  comic 
and  full  of  action,  the  slow,  indolent  movements  of  the  performers, 
and  the  measured  pomp  of  the  language  presented  a  striking  contrast 
to  the  brisk,  bustling,  sprightly  gesture  and  rapid  articulation  of  the 
French  An  excellent  orchestra  constituted  the  most  agreeable  part 
of  the  entertainment.  The  audience  was  not  numerous,  and  by  no 
means  orderly.  Even  in  the  lowest  theatres  in  France,  every  specta- 
tor is  silent,  and  intent  on  the  spectacle,  whatever  it  may  be.  But 
here,  a  majority  of  the  house  did  not  seem  to  regard  the  play,  and 
were  engaged  in  loud  conversation. 

One  day  was  occupied  in  an  excursion  to  Leghorn,  fourteen  miles 
from  Pisa,  in  a  southerly  direction.  We  left  early  on  the  morning  of 
tiie  twelfth,  in  company  with  our  friends  from  New- York,  and  accom- 
plished the  ride  in  about  two  hours.  The  road  runs  nearly  the  whole 
way  over  a  low,  unbroken  plain,  of  moderate  fertility,  sprinkled  with 
a  few  mean  villages  and  houses,  sometimes  skirted  with  a  grove  of 
pines,  but  generally  devoid  of  interest,  and  leaving  us  to  draw  upon 
our  classical  resources  for  amusement.  A  canal  connects  Pisa  with 
Leghorn,  and  most  of  the  heavy  goods  from  Florence  and  the  Vale  of 
the  Arno  pass  through  this  channel.  It  was  made  at  little  expense 
and  is  of  great  practical  utility. 

Leghorn  makes  no  show  at  a  distance,  and  it  may  be  added,  that  it 
Iocs  not  appear  to  much  advantage  from  any  point  of  view.     It  stands 


88         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

low,  on  ground  in  a  great  measure  artificially  made  ;  and  the  first  ob- 
jects which  strike  the  traveller  on  his  approach  to  it,  are  the  stagnant 
moats  and  canals  surrounding  the  walls,  and  setting  up  into  the  heart 
of  the  town.  Yet  I  could  not  learn  that  these  sluggish  waters, 
choked  with  every  species  of  filth,  and  manthng  with  corruption,  pro- 
duce disease,  or  that  the  inhabitants  even  in  the  heats  of  summer  are 
subject  to  epidemics.  On  the  contrary,  the  Florentines  and  strangers 
from  other  parts  of  Italy  resort  hither  in  the  hot  months,  to  enjoy  the 
luxury  of  sea-bathing,  and  for  the  benefit  of  their  health. 

Leghorn  is  in  all  respects  the  very  reverse  of  Pisa,  and  in  the  sud- 
den transition  from  the  deserted,  desolate,  silent  streets  of  the  one,  to 
the  active,  busy,  bustling,  noisy  crowds  of  the  other,  the  effect  was  pe- 
culiarly striking.  The  former  is  a  modern  and  emphatically  a  com- 
mercial town,  with  no  antiquities,  little  architectural  beauty  beyond 
that  of  utility,  and  few  works  of  art.  It  has  sprung  up  in  modern 
times,  and  doubled  its  population  since  the  commencement  of  the 
present  century,  amounting  now  to  about  60,000,  within  a  circuit  of 
two  miles !  Pisa  has  been  ruined,  and  Leghorn  made  by  a  subjuga- 
tion to  the  Tuscan  government.  Anterior  to  this  period,  the  latter 
was  an  insignificant,  dirty  village,  sunk  in  the  mud,  and  hidden  among 
the  weeds  of  the  shore.  The  Medicean  family  laid  the  foundations  of 
its  prosperity,  and  its  own  innate  vigour  has  continued  the  impulse, 
till  it  has  become  the  only  port  of  any  importance  in  Tuscany,  and 
the  greatest  mart  in  Italy. 

The  streets  of  Leghorn  are  generally  regular  and  well  paved,  most 
of  them  wide  and  convenient,  and  a  few  of  them  handsome.  They 
nearly  all  converge  and  open  into  a  public  square  in  the  centre  of  the 
town,  containing  an  area  of  perhaps  five  acres,  lined  with  ranges  of 
stately  buildings  on  both  sides,  with  a  palace  at  one  end  and  a  showy 
church  at  the  other.  This  is  the  fashionable  promenade.  It  is  sur- 
rounded with  side-walks,  but  has  no  trees,  no  arcades — nothing  save 
the  wide  awnings  spread  before  the  doors,  to  shield  the  passenger 
from  the  influence  of  the  sun.  The  street  leading  from  this  area  to 
the  port  is  the  centre  of  business  and  the  thoroughfare  of  the  town. 
It  is  lined  with  hotels,  coffee-houses,  and  shops  of  all  descriptions,  at 
the  doors  and  windows  of  which  the  wares  are  fancifully  displayed. 
As  Leghorn  is  a  free  port,  foreign  goods  are  here  sold  fifteen  or  twenty 
per  cent,  cheaper  than  in  the  interior  of  Italy.  Immense  quantities 
are  purchased  and  smuggled  by  individuals  for  the  annual  consump- 
tion of  their  families,  and  sometimes  for  purposes  of  speculation.  It 
is  no  uncommon  thing  for  Florentine  ladies  to  come  hither  (a  dis- 
tance of  60  miles)  to  do  their  shopping ;  and  the  carriage  of  one  of 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         89 

the  nobility  was  not  long  since  sent  to  the  Dogana^  (wliicU  may  be 
literally  translated  to  the  dogs^)  for  being  found  filled  with  contraband 
articles.  The  market  is  flooded  with  French  and  English  goods. 
Porcelain  from  Sevres,  fancy  articles  from  Paris,  the  wares  of  Bir- 
mingham, and  the  cutlery  of  Sheffield,  attract  your  eye  at  every  step. 
Even  our  own  country  contrives  to  do  its  share.  No  Italian  thinks  of 
coming  to  Leghorn,  without  returning  home  with  his  hat  full  of  Ame- 
rican cigars. 

Soon  after  our  arrival  at  the  Royal  Oak,  the  rendezvous  of  most  of 
our  countrymen  who  visit  Leghorn,  we  made  our  way  through  the 
multitude  to  the  Port,  which  is  more  interesting  to  the  stranger  than 
any  other  part  of  the  town.  A  strong  barrier  surrounds  the  harbour, 
and  the  main  street  opens  through  a  high,  narrow  arch,  where  the 
rush  of  the  crowd,  like  a  torrent  contracted  by  lateral  rocks,  is  inces- 
sant, and  often  dangerous.  Carriages,  hackney-coaches,  carts,  wheel- 
barrows, and  all  the  apparatus  of  commerce,  pour  through  this  pas- 
sage, and  leave  no  protection  to  the  pedestrian. 

The  first  object  which  arrested  our  attention  on  reaching  the  quay, 
was  a  conspicuous  pile  of  monumental  marble,  consisting  of  a  colos- 
sal statue  of  Ferdinand  L  Grand  Duke  of  Tuscany,  and  four  bronze 
slaves  in  chains  at  his  feel,  surrounding  the  pedestal !  The  work  is 
executed  in  a  masterly  style,  but  tJie  design  is  absolutely  repulsive — 
worse,  if  possible,  than  the  monument  to  Nelson,  in  the  Exchange  at 
Liverpool,  to  which  it  bears  a  striking  resemblance.  Petty  sove- 
reignty is  here  clothed  in  its  most  revolting  attributes.  The  expres- 
sive faces,  the  piteous,  uplifted  eyes,  the  manacled  limbs  of  the  cap- 
tives, meet  only  with  a  frown  from  the  unrelenting  brow  of  the  vic- 
tor ;  and  from  almost  the  only  specimen  of  the  fine  arts  worth  looking 
at  in  the  town,  the  spectator  turns  away  with  disgust.  Were  I  Go- 
vernor of  Leghorn,  this  monument  should  at  least  be  deposited  in 
some  old  museum,  and  removed  from  public  view,  in  the  first  twenty- 
four  hours  after  my  accession.  But  perhaps  it  is  intended  to  incul- 
cate wholesome  lessons  of  the  relations  which  must  exist  between 
the  Grand  Duke  and  his  subjects,  or  in  other  words,  between  the 
master  and  his  slaves  ! 

At  the  dock  we  took  one  of  the  hundred  row-boats,  furnished  witli 
carpets  and  awnings,  always  in  readiness,  with  an  importunate  gang 
of  watermen  resting  upon  their  oars,  aiul  made  an  aquatic  excursion, 
occupying  two  or  three  hours.  The  inner  harbour,  or  rather  basin, 
is  separated  from  the  outer  by  a  mole,  covered  with  a  block  of  ware- 
houses, and  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  substantial  quays.  It  is  nar- 
row and  crowded  with  vessels.     A  bridge  at  one  point,  and  a  ferry- 

VOL.  n.  12 


90         LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE. 

boat  at  another,  connect  the  insulated  buildings  with  the  town.  There 
are  now  lying  at  this  basin  two  ships  of  war  ;  one  for  the  Greeks,  and 
the  other  for  the  Turks,  destined  probably  to  meet  hereafter  in  action 
upon  the  ocean.  The  latter  is  now  upon  the  stocks,  a  monstrous  half 
finished  hulk.  Trade  is  not  always  very  scrupulous,  as  to  what  cause 
it  may  promote,  so  that  it  is  lucrative  ;  though  the  Florentine  con- 
tractor for  this  ship  with  the  Turkish  government  may  perhaps  assem- 
ble once  a  month  with  his  countrymen  to  make  speeches,  and  adopt 
resolutions  in  favour  of  the  Greeks.  Similar  contracts  have  been  en- 
tered into  at  Marseilles,  under  the  sanction  of  the  French  government. 
The  port  of  Leghorn  is  connected  with  the  basin  by  a  narrow  pass, 
just  wide  enough  for  one  large  vessel,  and  generally  choked  with 
boats.  It  is  closed  from  sunset  till  sunrise,  and  no  one  is  allowed  to 
enter  during  the  night.  The  object  of  such  a  vexatious  regulation  is 
scarcely  discoverable,  unless  it  has  some  connexion  with  the  quaran- 
tine. Even  boats  that  are  out  on  commercial  business  with  foreign 
vessels,  must  hurry  home  at  night-fall,  like  a  dissipated  rake,  lest  the 
gates  be  barred  against  them. 

The  outer  harbour  is  spacious,  but  neither  deep  nor  safe.  It  is 
almost  entirely  artificial,  encircled  on  all  si(Jes,  save  one,  by  moles  and 
quays.  Tremendous  and  rude  ledges  have  been  thrown  together  next 
to  the  sea,  to  break  the  violence  of  the  winds  and  waves.  Some  of 
these  masses  of  rock  are  so  enormous,  and  have  so  much  the  appear- 
ance of  being  in  situ,  that  we  could  hardly  believe  they  had  not  been 
planted  here  by  the  hand  of  nature  herself.  The  principal  mole  has 
a  handsome  superstructure,  behind  which  the  vessels  ride  at  anchor. 
But  all  these  defences  against  the  elements  are  not  sufficient  to  render 
the  port  secure,  and  ships  are  often  dismasted  by  squalls,  while  moor- 
ed under  the  lee  of  the  mole.  The  quarantine  ground  is  still  worse, 
being  in  the  open  roads,  exposed  to  all  the  storms,  which  at  certain 
seasons  lash  the  coast. 

The  quantity  of  shipping  in  the  harbour  did  not  equal  my  expecta- 
tions, though  allowance  must  be  made  for  the  stagnation  of  commerce 
during  the  last  year,  and  perhaps  for  the  time  of  our  visit.  Vessels, 
like  birds  of  passage,  are  generally  periodical  in  their  migrations  ;  and 
none  of  the  Indiamen  had  yet  arrived.  British  ships  were  numerous. 
In  fact,  the  greater  part  of  the  business  of  Leghorn  is  done  by  English 
and  Scotch  merchants.  They  receive  nearly  all  the  consignments  of 
our  countrymen.  Only  one  American  could  be  found  in  port — a  brig 
from  Boston.  Her  crew  seemed  surprised  to  be  hailed  from  a  boat 
in  the  yankee  dialect.  The  boatmen  took  us  alongside  the  family 
yacht,  belonging  to  Mr.  Baring,  the  London  banker.     She  is  one  of 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  91 

liie  prettiest  models  I  have  ever  seen  ;  neat,  tasty,  and  without  any 
superfluity  of  ornament.  Iler  form  is  hjrht,  and  she  sits  hke  a  duck 
upon  the  water.  Once  a  year,  the  proprietor  and  his  family  make  a 
trip  along  the  classic  shores  of  the  Mediterranean,  touching  at  Na- 
ples, Palermo,  Malta,  and  other  ports.  Money  made  by  banking 
might  be  expended  in  a  much  more  irrational  manner. 

Having  examined  the  harbour  and  shipping,  we  extended  our  ex- 
cursion without  the  mole  to  the  Light-ilouse,  standing  upon  a  rocky 
islet,  also  artificially  made.  The  lantern  is  poised  upon  a  substantial 
tower,  perhaps  150  feet  above  the  waves.  In  our  toilsome  ascent, 
two  or  three  families  of  females  were  observed,  in  apartments  not  un- 
comfortable, but  at  a  fearful  elevation.  Some  of  them  had  pretty 
Italian  faces,  wreathed  with  smilCvS,  and  looked  like  imprisoned  beauty. 
If  a  Sappho  should  chance  to  be  of  tiie  number,  she  might  find  botli 
flie  rock  and  the  wave  at  her  own  window. 

The  lantern  is  furnished  with  a  good  telescope,  and  in  clear  weather, 
the  island  of  Elba,  as  well  as  the  mountains  of  Corsica,  may  be  dis- 
tinctly seen.  But  unfortunately  the  horizon  was  hazy,  and  these 
islands  were  not  visible.  We  however  had  a  charming  view  of  the 
two  small  islands  off  the  coast ;  of  Monte  Nero,  and  its  white  villages  to 
the  south  ;  the  long  line  of  green  shores  to  the  north,  with  the  Apen- 
nines beyond  ;  and  the  harbour  and  town  spreading  beneath  us.  A 
distinct  survey  of  these  objects  amply  remunerated  our  toils,  and  con- 
soled us  under  the  disappointment  of  not  catching  a  distant  glance  at 
the  sea-girt  birth-place  and  prison  of  Napoleon. 

On  our  return  from  this  excursion,  we  visited  the  Jews'  Synagogue, 
which  is  said  to  be  the  most  splendid  building  of  the  kind  in  Europe, 
or  indeed  in  the  world.  About  one  third  of  the  inhabitants  of  Leg- 
horn are  of  the  scattered  tribes  of  Israel.  They  here  enjoy  more  free- 
dom, or  in  other  words,  experience  less  oppression,  than  in  any  other 
of  the  Italian  cities.  Many  of  them  have  accumulated  fortunes,  and 
liberally  contributed  to  embellish  their  sanctuary,  where  they  all  wor- 
ship the  God  of  their  Fatliers.  The  edifice  is  two  stories  high,  with-  /\ 
out  much  external  show,  and  situated  on  one  of  the  dirtiest  streets  in 
town.  But  the  interior  is  both  rich  and  splendid,  with  blind  galleries 
for  the  accommodation  of  the  female  part  of  the  audience,  and  a  spa- 
cious area  below  for  the  men.  The  reading-desk  rises  in  the  centre, 
and  the  Holy  of  Holies,  the  depository  of  the  book  of  the  law  and  the 
sacred  symbols,  is  a  superb  shrine,  erected  at  one  end  against  the  wall. 
All  the  ornaments  are  of  massive  gold,  silver,  and  precious  stones. 
There  are  no  less  than  three  thousand  lamps,  and  the  flood  of  light, 
pouring  upon  so  many  brilliant  decorations,  is  said  to  be  on  some  of 


93         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

the  great  festivals  almost  insufferable.  Select  passages  from  the  scrip- 
tures, in  the  Hebraic  character,  cover  the  walls.  The  Grand  Duke 
and  Dutchess  of  Tuscany  not  long  since  paid  the  Synagogue  a  visit, 
and  the  congregation  in  return  presented  the  latter  with  a  gorgeous 
dress,  sparkling  with  the  gems  of  the  East.  Several  natives  of  Jeru- 
salem, Judea,  the  shores  of  Africa,  and  the  isles  of  the  sea,  are  here 
gathered  together,  and  find  a  quiet  asylum. 

Our  visit  to  the  Protestant  burying-ground  was  to  me  extremely  in- 
teresting, fond  as  I  am  of  brooding  over  cemeteries  and  reading  epi- 
taphs. In  certain  moods  of  the  mind,  it  is  more  agreeable  to  linger 
f^  round  the  mansions  of  the  dead,  than  to  frequent  the  habitations  of  the 
living.  This  grave-yard,  according  to  my  taste,  is  worth  a  hundred  of 
the  Campo  Santo  at  Pisa.  In  the  latter,  the  hand  of  art  alone  is  visi- 
ble ;  in  the  former,  nature  and  art  are  charmingly  blended.  The  en- 
closure is  small,  situated  in  the  suburbs  of  the  town,  where  the  sacred 
repose  of  the  tomb  is  undisturbed  by  the  din  and  levity  of  the  streets. 
A  neat  iron  railing,  supported  by  stone  pillars,  encircles  the  area, 
fringed  on  all  sides  by  rows  of  cypress,  and  the  whole  beautifully  sha- 
ded by  weeping  willows,  which  hang  their  long  rich  tresses  over  the 
white  marble  monuments."  There  is  almost  thought — certainly  senti- 
ment in  this  tree,  the  very  image  of  which  is  melancholy  and  sepul- 
chral above  all  others.  The  sod  is  perfectly  green  and  enamelled  with 
flowers,  among  which  the  wild  poppy  is  conspicuous,  rearing  its  crim- 
son petals  above  the  rank  grass,  and  by  a  sort  of  heedless  gaiety  stri- 
king the  mind  by  contrast ;  as  the  most  cheerful  music  sometimes  only 
serves  to  sadden  the  feelings. 

The  monuments  taken  collectively,  are  the  handsomest  and  in  the 
best  taste  I  have  ever  seen.  They  are  of  fine  statuary  marble,  uni- 
formly chaste  in  design,  and  executed  with  all  the  exactness  of  the 
Italian  chisel.  Their  dates  reach  as  far  back  as  the  year  1746,  when  the 
cemetery  was  commenced  by  Mr.  Bateman,  an  Englishman,  who  mu- 
nificently gave  a  sufficient  sum  to  purchase  the  ground,  and  defray  the 
expenses  of  the  enclosure.  Among  the  most  beautiful  monuments,* 
r  is  one  to  the  memory  of  captain  Gamble,  of  the  United  States  Navy, 

who  died  at  Pisa  in  1818.  It  is  of  the  purest  Carrara  marble,  and 
consists  of  a  square  pedestal  surrounded  with  four  eagles,  above  which 
rises  a  fluted  column,  surmounted  by  an  urn  and  girt  with  a  cincture 
of  stars.  Those  in  memory  of  captain  M'Knight,  of  the  United 
States  Marines ;  Miss  Bowdoin,  and  Mr.  Reed,  of  Boston ;  Mr. 
Seton,  and  Mr.  PoUok,  of  New-York  ;  Mr.  Hawley,  of  Connecticut ; 
Mr.  De  Bull,  of  Baltimore  ;  and  two  Midshipmen  in  the  United  States 
Navy,  are  all  beautiful.     The  tombs  of  the  English,  Irish  and  Scotch 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         93 

are  extremely  numerous ;  but  none  of  them  are  very  remarkable  or 
interesting  to  a  stranger,  except  that  of  Dr.  Smollett,  the  iiuinortal 
historian,  novelist  and  poet.  His  monument  is  a  plain  pyramid,  rising 
on  a  square  pedestal,  inscribed  merely  with  the  date  of  his  death  at 
Leghorn,  his  age,  and  his  country.  He  could  scarcely  have  selected 
a  more  rural  and  quiet  spot  for  iiis  grave,  oven  upon  the  banks  of  his 
native  Leven,  whose  praises  he  has  so  sweetly  sung. 

Some  of  our  friends  in  France  were  so  kind  as  to  give  us  several  let- 
ters to  Leghorn  ;  but  our  stay  was  so  short,  and  our  anxiety  to  reach  the 
South  of  Italy  before  the  beginning  of  summer  was  so  great,  that  none 
of  them  were  delivered  We  had  not  even  time  in  this  short  visit,  to 
pay  our  respects  to  tiie  veteran  American  Consul,  the  correspondent 
and  friend  of  Mr.  Jefferson,  who  has  been  here  many  years,  and  if 
reports  be  true,  has  amassed  a  handsome  fortune.  Afler  dining  com- 
fortably at  the  Royal  Oak,  we  returned  to  Pisa  on  the  same  evening, 
highly  gratified  with  the  incidents  and  pleasures  of  the  excursion. 


94         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

LETTER  LII. 

VALE  OP  THE  AKNO ARRIVAL  AT  FLORENCE — SKETCH  OP  THE    CITV 

EXTERNAL  APPEAKAiSCE— BRIDGES — CATHEDRAL BAPTISTRY — CAM- 
PANILE. 

April,  1826. 

At  Pisa  a  coach  was  chartered  to  take  us  to  Florence,  with  the  express 
condition  of  furnishing  a  relay  of  horses  midway,  to  relieve  us  from 
the  necessity  of  resting  two  or  three  hours  at  some  unimportant  village 
or  dirty  hotel  ;  and  early  on  the  morning  of  the  14th  instant,  we  set 
out  for  the  capital  of  Tuscany,  under  the  auspices  of  a  bright  and 
charming  day.  The  distance  is  about  fifty  English  miles,  in  an  east- 
ern direction,  and  the  journey  was  accomplished  in  nine  hours,  giving 
us  ample  time  to  examine  the  little  which  is  to  be  seen  between  the 
two  places.  An  excellent  road,  sometimes  hilly,  but  always  smooth, 
pursues  the  left  bank  of  the  Arno  the  whole  way,  often  on  the  very 
margin,  and  seldom  out  of  sight  of  the  river.  A  classic  stream  of  so 
much  celebrity  was  a  welcome  companion,  and  its  banks  were  survey- 
ed with  an  attention  proportioned  to  their  fame. 

The  outlines  of  the  Vale  of  the  Arno  may  be  conveyed  to  the  reader 
in  few  words.  On  leaving  Pisa,  or  more  properly  Lucca,  the  Apen- 
nines make  a  bold  sweep  towards  the  Adriatic,  receding  from  the  west- 
ern coast  of  Italy,  and  their  declivities  sinking  into  swells  of  moderate 
elevation.  The  loftier  peaks  in  the  chain,  still  covered  with  snow,  are 
seen  in  the  distance,  rising  in  a  long  Hne  round  the  head  of  the  vale, 
and  behind  the  green  slopes,  which  form  the  fore-ground  On  the  left 
bank  of  the  river,  none  of  the  hills  exceed  a  few  hundred  feet  in 
height ;  and  on  both  sides,  the  formation  is  the  same,  consisting  of 
chalky  limestone  and  argillaceous  slate,  imperfectly  shaded  with  ver- 
dure. Plantations  of  olives  occupy  the  bases,  and  above  these  rise 
groves  of  fir,  chestnut,  and  pine,  generally  of  a  dwarfish  growth  to- 
wards the  summits. 

The  Arno  itself,  like  almost-  every  river  we  have  yet  seen  in  Italy, 
partakes  of  the  character  of  a  torrent,  forming  little  else  than  a  chan- 
nel for  the  floods,  which  descend  from  the  mountains  at  certain  seasons. 
It  may  be  considered  as  an  extremely  sensitive  hydrometer,  swelling 
with  every  shower,  and  shrinking  almost  to  a  rill  during  a  drought. 
Its  bed  is  two  or  three  times  the  breadth  of  its  ordinary  current,  expo- 
sing to  view  long  tracts  of  naked  gravel,  washed  down  from  the  hills, 
and  presenting  a  picture  of  perfect  desolation.     Here  no  plants  nor 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         9o 

tlovvers,  as  on  some  of  our  streams,  skirt  the  very  brink,  deriving  nu- 
triment from  a  rich  animal  deposit,  playing  as  it  were  with  the  gentle 
current,  and  hanging  enamoured  over  its  glassy  surface.  On  the  con- 
trary, the  Arno  scourges  a  hundred  times  a  year  whatever  falls  within 
its  reach,  piling  still  higher  its  wastes  of  sands.  In  many  places  dikes 
are  thrown  up,  to  confine  its  Hoods  within  due  limits.  Neither  the 
complexion  of  the  Imrried,  turbid  waters,  nor  the  aspect  of  the  mis- 
shapen boats  by  which  they  are  navigated,  affords  much  relief  to  the 
eye,  and  the  stream  itself  is,  on  the  whole,  far  from  being  picturesque 
or  interesting. 

But  the  secondary  banks,  spreading  from  the  shores  to  the  foot  of 
the  hills,  are  rich,  green,  and  beautiful.  The  vale  is  often  several 
miles  in  width,  and  one  of  the  most  highly  cultivated,  as  well  as  of  the 
most  productive  in  the  world.  It  appeared  to  me,  that  no  soil,  how- 
ever manured  and  tilled,  could  support  the  exuberance  of  foliage  some- 
times found  along  the  road.  The  ground  is  laid  out  in  small  squares, 
or  parallelograms,  bordered  with  thick  rows  of  elms,  mulberries,  or 
poplars,  with  heavy  vines  hanging  in  luxuriant  festoons  from  tree  to 
tree.  These  plantations  are  so  dense  over  the  whole  landscape,  as  to 
constitute  a  perfect  forest,  through  which  the  eye  can  penetrate  but  a 
short  distance,  till  from  some  eminence  it  stretches  over  wide  tracts  of 
matted  verdure. 

The  beds  opening  between  the  hnes  of  trees,  and  cultivated  with 
as  much  precision  as  an  ordinary  garden,  are  sov/n  with  flax,  wheat,  -"' 
grain,  and  vegetables  of  all  descriptions,  one  crop  succeeding  another 
in  rapid  succession,  and  indeed  often  seen  mingled  together  in  the  same  / 
field.  All  the  tillage  is  done  by  manual  labour,  and  the  mode  is  very 
similar  to  that  described  in  my  notice  of  Lucca.  But  exact  as  this 
culture  now  is,  it  might  evidently  be  much  improved,  by  adopting  the 
French  mode  of  cultivating  the  vine,  and  by  removing  the  trees,  which 
exhaust  the  soil  ;  though  this  would  make  serious  innovations  upon 
the  beauty  of  the  landscape.  Flax  is  a  staple  article  in  all  this  part 
of  Italy.  Females  are  seen  along  the  roads,  with  the  distaff  stuck  in 
a  belt  at  the  left  side,  twirling  the  spool  dangling  below,  and  spinning 
as  they  walk,  or  while  engaged  in  watching  their  flocks.  Fields  of 
the  raw  material,  hanging  its  blue  blossoms,  by  the  side  of  patches  of 
wheat  full  in  the  ear,  and  beneath  vines  shooting  their  tendrils  from 
branch  to  branch,  presented  novel  scenery  for  the  middle  of  April. 

The  Vale  of  the  Arno  is  as  populous,  as  it  is  productive,  though  the 
houses  are  so  constructed  and  situated,  as  to  add  nothing  to  the  beauty 
of  the  landscape,  except  when  seen  at  a  distance.  Here  are  no  neat 
little  cottages,  sprinkled  over  the  fields,  half  concealed  by  foliage,  and 


96        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

wreathed  with  flowers,  as  in  some  parts  of  England.     What  rehef  and 
,  what  an  additional  charm  would  such  lodges,  peeping  from  among  the 

'  trees,  and  overshadowed  by  the  vine,  furnish  in  this  hot  climate  !  •  But 
with  very  few  exceptions,  the  people  of  Italy  seem  to  have  no  taste  for 
retirement  and  a  rural  life.  Even  the  peasantry  are  fond  of  herding 
together  in  crowded,  dirty  towns,  and  often  walk  several  miles  to  their 
daily  labours.  This  circumstance,  together  with  the  paucity  of  animals 
both  domesticated  and  wild,  renders  the  Italian  landscape  extremely 
inanimate,  in  comparison  either  with  our  own,  or  that  of  Great  Britain. 
No  children  are  seen  frolicking  at  cottage  doors  ;  no  cattle  are  heard 
to  low  in  their  pastures  ;  and  the  rustic  laugh,  after  the  toils  of  the  day, 
never  gives  cheerfulness  to  the  fields  At  evening  the  country  is  as 
solitary  as  the  desert.  The  labourers  retire  to  their  villages,  shutting 
themselves  up  within  high  walls,  confined  streets,  and  cheerless  houses. 
We  passed  something  like  a  dozen  of  these  populous  villages  be- 
tween Pisa  and  Florence,  scattered  at  distant  intervals  along  the  road. 
When  occupying  eminences,  they  appear  remarkably  well  at  a  distance, 
as  the  buildings  are  generally  white,  and  contrast  finely  with  the  green 
slopes  on  which  they  are  seated,  often  exhibiting  a  liberal  share  of 

'^*  domes  and  pinnacles.  But  the  moment  you  enter  the  gates,  the  charm 
vanishes.  Though  the  pavements  are  uniformly  good,  the  streets  are 
dark  and  narrow,  lined  with  houses  built  of  small  stones  and  mortar, 
with  stuccoed  walls,  and  often  without  window  sashes,  giving  them  an 
unfinished  and  gloomy  appearance.  I  have  not  yet  seen  a  village  in 
Italy,  which  may  not  be  considered  a  prison,  in  comparison  with  those 
of  New-England  and  the  Middle  States.  The  traveller  dreads  to  enter, 
and  rejoices  when  he  again  breathes  a  free  air. 

The  Tuscan  peasantry  have  perhaps  justly  been  ranked  among  the 
better  portions  of  the  population  of  Italy.  So  far  as  my  observation 
has  extended,  they  are  generally  industrious,  temperate,  and  frugal  in 
their  habits,  cultivating  their  lands  with  neatness,  and  pursuing  their 
respective  occupations  with  assiduity.  But  to  this  remark  there  are 
many  exceptions,  and  there  is  certainly  among  them  a  great  deal  of 
poverty.  Our  coach  was  pursued  by  beggars  half  of  the  way  between 
Pisa  and  Florence.  This  may  probably  be  in  part  owing  to  an  over- 
stocked population,  but  still  more  to  a  bad  government  and  worse  re- 
ligion. In  the  age  of  the  Republic,  Tuscany  supported  twice  the  num- 
ber of  inhabitants  within  the  same  territory.  Swarms  of  mendicants 
are  now  seen,  either  from  a  want  of  employment,  or  a  want  of  inclina- 
tion. The  pictures  of  rural  industry  along  the  road  were,  however, 
often  striking  and  agreeable,  particularly  among  the  females,  who  were 
busy  in  weeding  their  fields,  training  their  vines,  and  braiding  their 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         y7 

straw  lials.  In  the  latter  employment  thousands  arc  enijaood.  The 
peasant  girls  are  celebrated  for  their  personal  accomplishments.  Many 
of  them  have  pretty  faces,  and  a  small  fur  hat,  often  poised  on  one 
side  of  the  head,  with  red  bodices  tightly  laced,  gives  them  an  air  of 
nonchalance  and  archness.  From  costume  as  well  as  from  a  general 
resemblance  of  character,  it  has  been  inferred  that  they  are  of  Grecian 
origin.  It  is  certain  that  the  Etrurians  were  a  powerful  and  compara- 
tively a  civilized  people,  acquainted  with  letters  and  the  arts,  before  the 
foundation  of  Rome ;  and  many  of  the  improvements  of  the  latter 
were  borrowed  from  the  former. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Florence,  the  Vale  of  the  Arno  becomes  wide, 
and  the  river  makes  a  bold  sweep  to  the  west,  passing  near  the  base  of 
the  hills  on  the  left  bank,  and  leaving  a  broad  basin  on  the  opposite 
side,  rising  by  gentle  slopes  to  the  heights  of  the  Apennines.  The 
scenery  is  here  in  the  highest  degree  rich  and  picturesque.  Numerous 
white  villages,  and  villas  of  the  Florentine  nobility,  are  seated  upon 
the  acclivities,  swelling  stage  above  stage,  and  beautifully  shaded  with 
foliage  of  a  luxuriant  growth  and  deep  verdure.  Italian  scenery,  like 
a  splendid  painting,  seems  to  be  made  purposely  for  show  ;  and  to  ap- 
pear to  advantage  it  must  be  seen  under  a  favourable  light,  and  at  a 
proper  distance.  Its  strong  lights  and  shades  often  produce  a  fine 
coup  d'oeil,  but  its  lines  will  not  bear  a  close  inspection.  In  running 
down  one  of  these  show^  villas,  and  in  attempting  to  seize  the  elements 
of  the  picture,  I  was  often  reminded  of  the  rustic  in  chase  of  a  rain- 
bow. The  bright  illusion  vanishes  on  a  nearer  approach,  and  the  tra- 
veller is  left  to  wonder,  how  coarse  stucco  walls,  gardens  and  ever- 
greens shorn  into  fantastic  shapes,  and  weatherbeaten  statues  could  by 
any  possible  combination  thus  allure  and  deceive  his  eye.  If  any  of 
my  readers  have  ever  admired  the  splendour  of  dramatic  scenes,  and 
then  gone  behind  the  curtain  among  the  rouged  faces,  tinsel  dresses,  and 
rude  machinery,  which  produced  the  stage  eflect,  they  will  be  able  to 
comprehend  my  meaning.  Give  England  the  skies  of  Italy,  and  the 
landscape  of  the  former  would  transcend  that  of  the  latter  ;  and  take 
skies,  woods,  waters,  and  all,  I  have  no  hesitation  in  saying,  that  the 
valley  of  the  Mohawk,  the  Connecticut,  or  the  Merrimac  surpasses 
the  far-famed  Vale  of  the  Arno. 

Passing  the  long  Faubourg,  which  extends  several  miles  on  the  road 
towards  Pisa,  we  reached  the  gates  of  Florence  at  about  3  o'clock  in 
the  afternoon.  The  city  stands  so  low,  and  the  walls  are  so  high,  that 
the  environs  and  a  few  of  the  more  elevated  towers  only  can  be  seen 
in  approaching  on  this  side.  A  stately  and  handsome  arch  forms  an 
entrance  through  the  massive  ramparts,  which  are  so  thick  and  strong 

VOL.  ir.  13 


98         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

as  to  appear  impregnable.  The  portals  are  guarded  by  a  squad  of 
soldiers,  custom-house  officers,  and  placemen  of  a  subordinate  rank, 
who  gave  us  as  much  trouble  as  possible.  After  examining  our  pass- 
ports, and  inquiring  if  our  trunks  contained  any  contraband  articles, 
one  of  them  opened  the  coach  door,  and  intimated  in  an  under-tonc, 
that  by  the  payment  of  a  liberal  fee  our  luggage  might  be  exempted 
from  inspection.  As  we  were  in  no  particular  haste,  entertained  no 
fears  of  an  examination,  and  did  not  feel  disposed  to  yield  to  extortion, 
such  terms  were  promptly  rejected.  The  officer  was  evidently  irrita- 
ted by  the  refusal,  and  determined  to  render  the  search  as  vexatious  as 
he  could.  He  made  us  leave  the  carriage,  while  he  examined  the 
boxes  and  packets.  Our  trunks  were  opened,  and  their  contents  un- 
derwent a  minute  inspection,  some  of  them  being  strewed  upon  the 
ground.  A  friend  at  Marseilles  had  given  me  a  paper  or  two  of"  Lo- 
fillard's  particular,"  just  enough  to  frighten  away  the  moths  of  Italy. 
Upon  this  the  officer  pounced  with  avidity,  snapped  the  resinous  seal, 
tried  to  make  out  the  black-letter  label,  and  inspected  the  article  with 
as  much  caution  as  he  would  so  much  fulminating  powder. 

Natives  of  the  country  appeared  to  fare  no  better  than  ourselves. 
During  a  delay  of  something  more  than  half  an  hour,  it  was  amusing 
to  see  others  undergoing  a  search  in  the  hands  of  these  harpies.  Among 
the  rest  an  old  market  woman  driving  her  donkey  and  small  cart  filled 
with  vegetables,  was  brought  to  at  the  gate,  and  the  contents  of  the 
vehicle  emptied  upon  the  pavement.  In  cases  where  the  load  cannot 
be  taken  out,  the  officers  use  an  iron  rod  for  probing  the  contents  of 
casks  and  chests.  I  have  frequently  seen  the  panniers  and  wallets  of 
the  peasantry  subjected  to  these  odious  restrictions.  Perhaps,  how- 
ever, such  extreme  caution  may  be  in  some  measure  justifiable,  parti- 
cularly at  this  gate  which  leads  to  Leghorn,  by  the  constant  practice  of 
smuggling.  But  the  worst  of  it  is,  that  the  vexation  generally  falls 
upon  those,  who  are  least  able  to  bear  it,  while  such  as  possess  a  silver 
key  enjoy  a  ready  ingress  or  egress.  Many  of  the  higher  classes  pro- 
cure from  the  government  a  permit  to  pass  without  delay  or  examina- 
tion. This  privilege  is  often  abused,  in  some  instances  to  an  extent 
which  compels  the  revenue  officers  to  interfere,  as  was  mentioned  in 
my  notice  of  Leghorn. 

At  about  4  o'clock  we  found  ourselves  in  the  centre  of  Florence, 
and  comfortably  settled  for  a  week  at  the  Locanda  d"  Inghilterra, 
where  our  New-York  friends  had  taken  lodgings  the  day  previous,  and 
invited  us  to  join  in  the  fellowship  of  the  table.  This  hotel  is  one  of 
the  largest  and  most  celebrated  in  Europe.  It  is  kept  by  Schneider, 
a  German  emigrant,  who  has  realized  from  its  profits  a  princely  fortune^ 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         99 

His  son  has  lately  clandestinely  married  the  daughter  of  the  Governor 
of  Le<Thorn,  and  mine  host  on  the  Arno,  by  way  of  showing  that  a  run- 
away match  would  not  dishonour  a  sprig  of  Italian  nobility,  gave  ii 
marriafTi!  portion  of  ^200,000,  together  with  a  Florentine  palace,  a 
splendid  carriage,  and  otlier  outfits.  In  the  mean  time,  the  enterpri-  ^ 
sing  old  German  continues  to  levy  his  contributions  upon  the  traveller, 
for  which  perhaps  the  latter  receives  an  equivale  t  in  neatness  and 
comfort.  The  palace,  (for  so  it  may  justly  be  styled,)  is  beautifully 
situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Arno  ;  in  by  far  the  finest  part  of  the 
city.  Spiral  flights  of  marble  steps,  guarded  by  handsome  copies  of 
Egyptian  and  Roman  antiques,  lead  to  the  chambers  ;  and  the  terraces 
of  the  spacious  court  are  crowded  with  stntues,*  intermingled  with 
domestic  plants.  The  accommodations  are  in  all  respects  worthy  of 
the  exterior  ;  and  it  is  not  surprising,  that  such  a  hotel  is  constantly 
full. 

Our  first  glance  at  Florence  was  calculated  to  produce  a  deep  and 
vivid  impression.  Afler  winding  through  some  of  the  more  obscure 
streets,  we  emerged  suddenly  upon  the  banks  of  the  Arno,  lined  on 
both  sides  by  ranges  of  palaces,  connected  by  four  stately  bridges,  and 
exhibiting  a  partial  view  of  the  towers  and  domes  on  the  opposite 
shore,  as  well  as  of  the  green  swells  of  the  Apennines  beyond,  gilded 
by  the  evening  sun.  In  the  river  itself,  I  was  prepared  to  be  disap- 
pointed, after  what  had  already  been  seen.  It  here  preserves  much 
the  same  character,  as  at  Pisa  and  between  the  two  cities,  except  in 
so  far  as  it  has  been  modified  by  art.  It  pursues  a  straight  course, 
lengthwise  through  the  city,  dividing  it  into  two  nearly  equal  parts. 
The  channel  is  here  even  wider,  than  it  is  sixty  miles  below,  and  the 
tnrbid  water  is  scarcely  of  sufficient  depth  to  cover  the  mud.  At  the 
lower  extremity  of  the  city,  a  dam  has  been  thrown  quite  across,  over 
which  there  is  a  fall  of  several  feet,  producing  a  faint  murmur  through 
the  town,  and  a  considerable  bustle,  when  the  river  is  high. 

The  embankments,  like  those  at  Pisa,  are  entirely  artificial  and  con- 
structed in  the  same  manner,  as  also  of  the  same  material.  If  the 
Arno  possessed  any  natural  beauty,  these  quays,  extending  the  whole 
length  of  the  city,  would  destroy  it  ;  but  fortunately  there  was  nothing 


*  liappenins^  to  rise  one  morning  at  an  eurly  hour,  to  take  a  icw  turns  upon  the 
terrace  before  breakfast,  I  was  not  a  little  amused  to  see  a  scrub,  busy  in  washing 
these  statues,  which -JiaJ  become  somewhat  tarnishrd  during  the  winter.  Apollo 
and  the  Muses  seemed  to  turn  up  their  noses  at  having  a  dish-clout  flapped  full  in 
their  faces.  They  however  looked  all  the  better  for  being  subjected  to  a  luslia- 
tion.  The  graceful  limbs  of  Venus  were  rendered  as  snowy  and  pure,  as  when 
she  first  rose  from  the  foam  of  her  native  sea. 


100         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

of  this  kind  to  be  lost.  As  there  is  no  navigation  above  the  falls,  the 
streets,  called  the  Lung'Arno,  are  perfectly  clean,  and  form  the  fa- 
shionable promenades.  So  variable  is  the  current  of  this  river,  that 
although  the  banks  are  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  high,  and  notwithstanding 
the  great  breadth  of  the  channel,  the  floods  sometimes  fill  it  to  the 
brim  and  threaten  to  burst  their  barriers.  From  the  lower  bridge  to 
the  falls,  and  from  tlie  second  bridge  to  the  upper  extremity  of  the 
town,  the  buildings  extend  to  the  very  brink  of  the  river,  leaving  no 
passage  along  the  left  bank,  and  only  a  part  of  the  way  on  the  right. 
Napoleon,  while  master  of  Tuscany,  projected  a  splendid  improvement, 
by  continuing  the  Lung'Arno  on  both  sides  through  the  whole  length 
of  Florence,  and  thence  to  the  Cascina,  which  is  a  sort  of  Champs 
Elysdes,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river  below.  But  the  work  will  pro- 
bably never  be  executed  under  the  present  prosing  government.  Some 
of  the  palaces  between  the  two  lower  bridges  present  showy  facades, 
and  the  view  at  this  point  has  no  ordinary  share  of  magnificence.  The 
streets  in  front  of  them,  open  on  one  side  to  the  Arno,  are  spacious, 
and  finely  paved  with  large  flags,  similar  to  the  side-walks  in  Broad- 
way, fitted  together  in  the  most  exact  manner.  Nearly  all  the  pave- 
ments in  the  city  are  of  the  same  description,  and  exceed  in  firmness, 
as  well  as  in  convenience  and  beauty,  any  I  have  elsewhere  seen.  They 
will  endure  for  ages,  and  it  is  questionable,  whether  on  the  whole 
they  will  not  be  cheaper,  than  small  stones  which  require  to  be  taken 
up  and  re-adjusted  every  few  years. 

Although  all  the  bridges  are  substantial  structures,  much  cannot  be 
said  in  favour  of  either  their  grandeur  or  beauty,  with  the  exception  of 
one,  the  Santa  Trinita,  which  is  of  marble.  Its  arches  are  graceful, 
and  its  proportions  elegant.  It  is  probably  one  of  the  finest  bridges 
in  the  world.  Handsome  statues  guard  its  extremities.  Fortunately 
this  is  the  most  exposed  by  its  location,  and  shows  to  good  advantage. 
The  Ponte  Vechio,  or  old  bridge,  is  an  oddity.  It  is  wide,  and  the 
passage  on  both  sides  lined  with  shops  of  the  ordinary  size,  which  are 
all  occupied  by  jewellers.  A  hne  of  buildings  suspended  in  air  across 
the  Arno  has  a  grotesque,  but  by  no  means  an  agreeable  appearance, 
as  it  prevents  the  eye  from  ranging  up  and  down  the  river.  Enough 
of  silver,  gold,  and  precious  stones,  wrought  into  ornaments  of  all 
kinds,  is  here  deposited,  to  choke  the  current,  should  the  bridge  give 
way.*     But  the  Ponte  Vechio  is  not  the  only  curiosity  of  the  kind  in 

v/ 

■^  *  The  Italians  of  both  sexes  and  of  all  classes  are  extravagantly  fond  of  jewel- 
ry ;  fingei'-rings,  bracelets,  necklaces,  and  pendants.  Immense  quantities  of  these 
articles  are  sold  at  Genoa,  Leghorn,  Florence,  and  the  other  great  towns.     Even 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         101 

this  quarter.  A  gallery  also  extends  across  the  river,  connecting  two 
of  the  Ducal  Palaces  on  the  opposite  shores.  Like  hundreds  of  other 
buildings  at  Florence,  it  was  constructed  during  an  age  of  jealousy 
between  rulers  and  their  subjects,  to  afford  a  secret  and  safe  passage 
to  those,  who  feared  to  encounter  on  the  open  bridges  the  effects  of 
their  own  tyranny  in  the  exasperated  feelings  of  their  enemies.  Most 
of  the  old  palaces  are  built  for  purposes  of  defence,  looking  more  like 
castles  or  prisons,  than  like  dwelling-houses.  The  lower  windows  arc 
all  grated  with  heavy  bars  of  iron,  and  the  doors  are  as  massive,  as  the 
portals  of  a  city. 

On  tlic  Sunday  after  our  arrival,  we  all  went  to  the  Cathedral,  which 
stands  on  a  public  square  of  the  same  name,  at  some  distance  from 
the  right  bank  of  the  Arno.  It  is  a  huge  pile,  striking  the  spectator 
with  astonishment  at  its  size,  rather  than  with  the  grandeur  or  harmo- 
ny of  its  proportions.  Its  form  is  that  of  a  Roman  cross,  the  head 
of  which  is  octagonal,  giving  it  an  unique  appearance.  The  front  is 
unfinislicd,  being  rudely  plastered  ;  and  the  other  sides  are  encased 
with  black  and  white  marble,  like  the  Duomo  at  Genoa.  Gothic  pin- 
nacles and  statues  crown  the  roof. 

Over  the  point  of  intersection  of  the  cross,  rises  a  stupendous 
dome,  which  preserves  the  octagonal  shape  of  the  end  of  the  church 
below.  Its  dimensions  almost  equal  those  of  the  dome  of  St.  Peter's 
at  Rome,  being  but  fifteen  feet  less  in  breadth,  and  only  thirteen  less 
in  height.  It  was  designed  by  Bruncllesco,  a  celebrated  Florentine 
architect,  in  the  14th  century,  about  a  himdred  years  after  the  rest  of 
the  church  was  built,  and  anterior  to  that  of  St.  Peter's.  The  former 
is  indeed  said  to  have  suggested  the  first  idea  of  the  latter — a  circum- 
stance by  no  means  improbable,  as  Michael  Angelo  used  to  say,  that 
the  work  of  Brunellesco  could  only  be  imitated,  but  not  surpassed. 
This  dome,  wliich  at  present  is  said  to  be  in  danger  of  falling,  is  sur- 
mounted by  a  cross  sixteen  feet  in  height,  and  320  feet  from  the 
ground.  I  have  seen  men  at  work  on  the  very  top,  who  were  reduced 
almost  to  the  size  of  sparrows.     The  piazza  of  the   Cathedral   has 


a  peasant  girl  >o!Tiotimcsha5  gold  ornaments  about  her  pcr?on  to  llie  value  of  ,5'2000. 
They  frequently  descend  from  one  generation  to  another,  const  it  utin:^  the  only 
dowry,  and  often  the  only  property.  I  have  seen  females  begging  with  knobs  in 
their  ears.  Nothing  is  more  common  than  to  see  a  coachman  or  a  servant,  with 
two  or  three  heavy  gold  rings  upon  his  greasy  fingers.  The  jewelry  is  of  the 
most  showy  but  rich  kind ;  and  the  peasantry  will  consent  to  work  hard  and  live 
poor  for  life,  provided  they  can  make  a  handsome  di=iilay  of  their  ornaments  oh 
t'erU'f!, 


10:2  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

lately  been  extended,  so  as  to  afford  a  full  view  of  the  enormous  edi- 
fice.    At  night  it  appears  to  rise  hke  a  mountain  against  the  horizon. 

The  inside  of  course  conforms  in  a  great  measure  to  the  exterior, 
in  the  general  contour  of  its  features.  Splendid  chapels  fill  the  octa- 
gonal projections  ;  and  long  lines  of  immense  pillars  separate  the 
aisles  from  the  nave.  Directly  under  the  centre  of  the  dome,  closed 
at  top,  is  the  choir,  some  thirty  feet  in  diameter,  still  preserving  the 
octagon,  and  surrounded  with  Ionic  columns,  better  suited  to  the  light- 
ness and  gaiety  of  a  theatre,  than  to  the  solemnity  of  a  sanctuary. 
Elevated  upon  a  throne,  on  one  side  of  this  enclosure,  is  a  statue — of 
whom  ?  of  the  Supreme  Being,  or  God  the  Father,  as  the  valet-de- 
place  familiarly  termed  him  !  He  is  represented  in  a  sitting  posture, 
with  one  hand  resting  upon  his  thigh,  and  the  other  raised,  as  if  in  the 
act  of  speaking.  His  countenance  is  that  of  an  old  man,  with  a  hoary 
beard  and  a  stern  look.  Within  a  few  paces  of  this  image,  one  of  the 
Medici  was  stabbed  to  the  heart  by  his  rival,  while  in  the  attitude  of 
kneeling  at  his  devotions  ;  and  if  I  am  correctly  informed,  crimes  of 
an  opposite  character  are  often  perpetrated  before  the  altar.  The  Ca- 
thedral is  the  rendezvous  of  the  whole  city,  and  among  the  crowd  of 
fashionables,  vows  are  said  to  be  whispered  to  other  ears  than  those  of 
the  Virgin.  Such  a  mixture  of  sacred  and  profane  objects,  of  human 
passions  and  devotional  feelings,  must  shock  every  person  of  correct 
taste,  to  say  nothing  of  moral  or  religious  principles. 

But  I  am  not  yet  done  with  a  description  of  the  church.  The  walls 
are  lined  with  piles  of  monumental  marble,  and  the  chapels  are  filled 
with  pictures  of  the  Tuscan  school.  Whatever  merit  any  of  these 
works  may  possess,  it  is  not  displayed  to  much  advantage,  owing  to 
the  more  than  twilight  dimness,  ghmmering  through  the  Gothic  win- 
dows, of  painted  glass,  and  unusually  small,  added  to  the  total  obscu- 
rity of  the  dome.  The  forms  of  devotees,  gliding  round  the  choir,  or 
kneeling  before  the  altars,  appeared  like  spectres,  half  disclosed  by  the 
rays  of  tapers,  blending  with  the  indistinct  fight  of  day  ;  and  peals  of 
the  chant,  sometimes  bursting  from  unseen  lips,  and  sent  back  in 
echoes  from  the  vaulted  roof,  had  no  tendency  to  diminish  the  effect. 
Towards  the  foot  of  the  cross,  the  front  and  lateral  doors  render  the 
vacant  aisles  less  gloomy,  and  more  fully  bring  to  view  the  mosaic 
pavement,  which  is  partly  the  work  of  Michael  Angelo.  Beneath  it 
sleeps  the  dust  of  great  men — Brunellesco,  Giotto,  and  others. 

A  shattered  picture  of  Dante,  in  the  attitude  of  reading  his  Divine 
Comedy,  is  suspended  from  the  wall,  and  arrests  the  attention  of  every 
traveller,  although  it  forms  but  a  frail  and  inadequate  memorial  of  the 
great  Tuscan  poet,  the  creator  of  a  new  language,  and  in  point  of 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        1U3 

]>romineucc  the  Shakspearc  of  modern  Italy.*  His  remains  still  rest 
at  Kavenna,  upon  the  shores  of  the  Adriatic,  whither  he  was  driven 
into  exile  by  the  persecutions  of  his  countrymen,  who  are  proud  of 
Jiis  reputation,  and  have  in  vain  sought  to  reclaim  his  ashes.  He  died 
in  1321.  A  cenotaph  monument  to  his  memory  is  now  in  the  hands 
of  Ricci,  a  celebrated  Florentine  artist,  and  will  soon  be  erected  in  the 
church  of  St.  Croce,  among  the  other  illustrious  names,  which  conse- 
crate its  aisles.  It  is  to  be  of  white  marble,  presenting  a  group  of  sta- 
tues, which  will  comprise  a  figure  of  Italy  pointing  to  her  favourite 
poet,  together  with  his  own  likeness  and  suitable  illustrations  of  his 
works.  The  whole  expense  is  estimated  at  *^40,000 — a  greater  sum 
than  Dante  ever  saw  during  his  life.  It  is  some  gratification  to  see 
the  posterity  of  his  fellow-citizens,  attempting  by  these  acts  of  libe- 
rality to  obliterate  the  ingratitude  of  their  fathers,  and  to  appease  the 
manes  of  persecuted  genius. 

But  let  us  turn  to  a  less  poetical  subject  :  In  front  of  the  Cathedral 
and  at  the  distance  of  a  few  yards,  stands  the  Baptistry,  an  octagonal 
edifice,  encrusted  with  black  and  white  marble,  and  finished  in  the  same 
style  as  the  primary  structure  to  which  it  belongs.  The  interior  is  ex- 
tremely rich,  the  pavement  consisting  of  beautiful  mosaics,  and  the 
shrines  glittering  with  precious  stones.  On  the  whole,  however,  it  is 
less  splendid  than  its  Pisan  rival,  dedicated  to  the  same  purposes.  The 
three  bronze  doors  are  reckoned  masterpieces  of  art,  and  old  Michael 
Angelo,  in  the  enthusiasm  of  his  admiration,  and  in  his  characteristic 
liberality  towards  the  works  of  others,  used  to  call  them  "  the  Gates 
of  Paradise."  They  are  enriched  with  bas-relief  of  exquisite  work- 
manship, and  appropriately  representing  the  principal  events  in  the  life 
of  St.  John  the  Baptist. 

What  shall  we  say  of  two  massive  iron  chains,  suspended  by  rings 
from  the  antique  pillarst  on  each  side  of  the  principal  portal,  all  taken 
from  captive  Pisa,  and  still  displayed  as  trophies  of  conquest  ?  Coming 
as  I  recently  had  from  the  wreck  of  that  interesting  little  Republic, 
these  spoils  from  a  port  now  in  utter  ruin,  thus  ostentatiously  exhibited 
to  the  eyes  of  slaves,  who  suffer  themselves  to  be  trampled  under  foot 


*  "  Tlie  power  of  the  humaa  miud,"  says  Sismondi,  "  was  never  more  forci- 
bly demoiistrated,  in  its  most  exquisite  master-pieces,  than  in  the  poem  (the  Di- 
rina  Camcdia)  of  Dante.  Without  a  prototy[ie  in  any  existing  language,  equally 
novel  in  its  various  parts,  and  in  the  combination  of  the  whole,  it  stands  alone,  as 
the  first  monument  of  modern  genius,  the  first  great  work  which  appeared  in  the 
reviving  literature  of  Europe." 

+  These  columns  of  porphyry  are  said  to  have  been  brought  from  Jerusalem. 


104        LETTERS  FKOM  EUROPE. 

by  the  modern  Goths  of  the  north,  awakened  in  my  breast  a  tide  of 
mingled  emotions.  The  Florentines  attempt  to  soften  the  features  of 
the  picture  by  stating,  that  the  chains  were  presented  to  them  by  the 
Pisans  for  guarding  their  territory,  while  they  were  engaged  in  foreign 
wars.  Notwithstanding  this  explanation,  the  traveller  regards  the  ma- 
nacles in  no  other  hght  than  as  an  emblem  of  the  subjugation  of  Pisa. 
If  either  state  had  been  benefitted  by  the  conquest,  such  a  boastful 
display  of  the  trophies  of  war  would  admit  of  some  palliation  ;  but  both 
were  ruined  and  depopulated  by  civil  dissensions.  Let  the  citizens  of 
the  United  States  mark  tlie  picture,  and  see  what  must  be  the  fate  of 
our  country,  if  any  of  the  flourishing  and  happy  little  Republics,  which 
like  the  planetary  world  now  form  parts  of  the  great  system,  and  are 
mutually  supported  by  one  another,  should  yield  to  the  impulses  of  am- 
bition, wander  from  their  orbits,  and  strive  for  the  mastery  over  their 
neighbours. 

The  Campanile  or  Belfry  in  this  group  of  buildings,  like  that  of 
Pisa,  is  an  insulated  tower,  standing  a  few  paces  from  the  corner  of  the 
Cathedral,  and  rising  to  the  height  of  288  feet.  It  is  perhaps  twenty 
feet  square,  constructed  of  the  most  solid  materials,  and  faced  on  the 
outside  with  variegated  marbles,  among  which  the  white  prevails, 
beautifully  clouded  with  other  colours.  The  workmanship  is  as  finish- 
ed as  the  smallest  and  nicest  piece  of  mechanism  ;  and  for  five  centu- 
ries, it  has  stood  the  admiration  of  all  travellers,  from  Charles  the  Vth, 
down  to  less  imperial  visitants.  It  was  built  by  Giotto,  who  by  dint  of 
genius  became,  from  a  peasant  boy,  one  of  the  most  renowned  archi- 
tects of  the  age. 

Arduous  as  was  the  ascent  by  means  of  spiral  flights  of  steps  in  the 
interior,  the  word  as  usual  was  upward  !  and  we  climbed  to  the  very 
top,  even  to  the  tiled  roof,  which  rises  above  the  open  balustrade.  The 
view  of  Florence  and  its  antique  towers  ;  of  the  Vale  of  the  Arno  both 
above  and  below  the  town  ;  of  the  river  itself,  at  this  height  divested  of 
its  minor  defects,  and  flowing  through  its  bright  and  luxuriant  borders  ; 
of  the  hilly  environs,  infinitely  varied,  and  crowned  with  castles,  pa- 
laces, villas,  gardens,  churches,  and  convents — such  a  landscape  glit- 
tering beneath  an  Itahan  sky,  and  blooming  in  all  the  freshness  of 
Spring,  may  be  conceived,  but  cannot  be  adequately  described.  East- 
Avard  the  prospect  reaches  to  the  woody  heights  of  Vallombrosa,  and 
the  peaks  of  mountains  overhanging  it,  still  enveloped  in  snow.  Three 
or  four  miles  towards  the  north,  the  dilapidated  walls  and  nodding 
towers  of  old  Fiesole,  seated  upon  one  of  the  loftiest  swells  of  the 
Apennines,  imperfectly  show  themselves  through  the  intervening  fo- 
liage.    The  seven  gates  of  Florence,  and  all  the  great  avenues  by 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        105 

which  it  is  approached,  were  distinctly  traced.  Of  these  the  Porta 
St.  Gallo,  leading  across  the  mountains  to  Bologna,  St.  Croce,  the 
Roman,  and  Pisan  are  tlie  principal.  Tlie  walls,  of  an  elliptical  form, 
are  seven  miles  in  circuit,  and  enclose  a  population  of  about  7';,000. 
Crowded  faubourgs,  extending  on  all  sides,  considerably  augment  the 
amount ;  but  what  is  this  handful  of  mhabitants,  compared  with  the 
400,000,  whom  the  city  alone  contained  in  the  prosperous  times  of 
the  Republic  !  Can  any  person  ask  a  more  palpable  demonstration 
than  this  of  the  superiority  of  one  form  of  government  over  another  ? 
Yet  the  Florentines,  slumbering  in  ignoble  ease,  enslaved  by  ecclesi- 
astics, and  bound  hand  and  foot  by  the  despotism  of  the  Holy  Alliance, 
are  suffering  the  glorious  inheritance  of  their  fathers  to  waste  away, 
without  one  generous  effort  to  regain  their  long- lost  liberties. 

While  wc  stood  leaning  over  the  balustrades  of  the  Campanile,  sur- 
veying the  dusky  battlements  of  the  city,  the  bells  tolled  and  the  chants 
of  numerous  processions  of  priests  in  their  robes,  followed  by  a  rag- 
ged multitude,  ascended  in  murmurs  from  below.  As  they  moved 
through  the  deep  and  dark  windings  of  the  streets,  they  alternately 
vanished  and  re-appeared,  and  the  sound  of  their  voices  by  turns  faded 
and  revived  upon  the  ear.  There  was  something  absolutely  melan- 
choly and  painful  in  the  picture.  What  a  different  scene  did  the  acti- 
vity and  bustle  of  the  town  present  in  the  early  days  of  the  Medicean 
family,  when  commerce  and  the  arts  flourished  ;  when  the  citizens 
assembled  on  the  public  squares  to  discuss  the  interests  of  state  ; 
when  every  high-minded  Florentine  was  ready  to  rally  at  a  moment's 
warning  under  the  banners  of  the  Republic,  and  the  enthusiastic  shouts 
of  freemen  rang  along  the  banks  of  the  Arno  !  But  the  jargon  of  bawl- 
ing ecclesiastics  is  now  the  only  watch-v/ord,  which  circulates  through 
a  declining  city. 

The  Piazza  del  Duomo  is  spacious,  and  surrounded  on  all  sides  by 
blocks  of  stately  buildings,  some  of  which  have  ao  air  of  venerable  an- 
tiquity. On  the  v.estern  side  stands  a  monument,  to  commemorate 
the  miracle  of  St.  Zenobi,  whose  coffin  coming  in  contact  willi  a  with- 
ered oak,  is  said  to  have  caused  it  to  put  forth  its  foliage  afresh.  This 
square  has  from  time  immemorial  been  the  rendezvous  of  all  loungers, 
literary,  political,  and  fashionable.  It  is  a  sort  of  Exchange,  whither 
the  Florentines  resort  at  evening,  to  converse  and  gather  the  news  of 
the  day.  Here  are  several  of  the  principal  coffee-houses  in  town  ; 
and  the  very  benches  arc  shown,  on  which  Machiavelli  and  his  contcni' 
poraries  used  to  lounge. 


VOL.  IX,  If 


106         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE 

LETTER  LIII. 

FLOHENCE     CONTIMED — CHURCHES — SAjNTA     CROCE — ST,      LOREjNZO 

TOMBS  OF   THE    MEDICI — LAURENTIAN    LIBRARY SANTA   MARIA  KO- 

VELLA ANNUNZIATA MUSEU31 — BOTANIC     GARDEN PITTX    PALACE 

BOBOLI   GARDEN CASCINA. 

April,  1826. 

To  the  churcli  of  Santa  Croce  we  paid  several  visits,  chiefly  on  ac- 
count of  its  interesting  associations.  It  stands  on  a  large  square  of 
the  same  name,  surrounded  with  antique  and  grotesque  buildings, 
some  of  which  have  been  the  cradles  of  distinguished  men.  The 
church  itself,  elevated  by  half  a  dozen  steps  above  the  piazza,  presents 
a  rude  exterior.  It  was  built  in  the  same  age  with  the  Cathedral,  but 
the  outside  has  never  been,  and  probably  never  will  be  finished.  The 
colossal  proportions  of  its  interior,  its  long-drawn  aisles,  its  ranges  of 
massive  columns,  its  Gothic  wooden  roof,  and  the  sombre  aspect  of  its 
chapels  and  altars,  impress  the  mind  with  a  solemnity  of  feeling.  An 
inattention  to  the  lesser  ornaments,  such  as  embellish  most  of  the 
Florentine  churches,  comports  with  the  dignity  of  a  sanctuary,  which 
enshrines  much  of  the  holiest  dust  of  Italy. 

On  entering  the  front  door,  the  eye  of  the  visitant  is  at  once  ar- 
rested by  the  tomb  of  Michael  Angelo,  erected  against  the  wall  to 
the  right.     It  is  enough  to  know,  that  the  ashes  of  such  a  man,  equally 
distinguished  for  his  genius,  his  skill,  his  patriotism,  and  noble  attach- 
ment to  liberty,  sleep  beneath  the  pavement.     But  the  monument  it- 
self is  worthy  of  his  memory,  and  furnishes  another  proof  that  his 
countrymen  are  much  more  fond  of  heaping  honours  upon  the  dead, 
than  of  doing  justice  to  the  living.*     It  consists  of  a  pyramidal  pile 
of  marble,  which  rises  above  a  splendid  sarcophagus.     Among  its  or- 
naments are  figures  of  Architecture,  Sculpture,  and  Painting,  with 
their  appropriate  insignia,  designed   to  be  emblematic  of  the  three 
great  departments  of  the  fine  arts,  in  which  this  astonishing  man  at- 
tained an  almost  equal  degree  of  eminence.     A  little  medallion  of 
his  own  painting  also  forms  one  of  its  most  interesting  embellishments. 


*  Oa  the  downfal  of  republican  liberty,  Michael  Angelo,  who  had  manfully 
struggled  for  its  support,  became  a  self-exile  from  his  country,  indignantly  retiring 
lo  Rome,  whence  he  refused  to  return,  till  his  remains  were  restored  to  his  native 
earth  by  his  enslaved  and  degraded  countrymen. 


\ 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         1U7 

Next  in  order,  and  on  the  same  side  of  the  churcli,  is  the  tomb  of 
Alfieri,  the  great  dramatic  poet,  and  one  of  the  master  spirits  of  mo- 
dern Italy  ;  thougl)  the  eccentricities  of  his  character  detract  some- 
what from  the  veneration  which  tlie  traveller  is  ready  to  pay  to  his 
talents.  He  was  the  personal  friend  of  Canova,  who  has  done  not 
less  credit  to  his  feelings  than  to  his  taste  in  the  design  of  this  monu- 
ment. The  same  marble  will  indissolubly  connect  two  illustrious 
names  ;  and  they  who  were  so  intimate  in  life,  will  not  be  wholly  sepa- 
rated even  in  death.  A  work  with  which  the  artist  evidently  took 
great  pains  has  not  been  considered  as  one  of  his  happiest  efibrts  ; 
for  what  reason  I  know  not :  to  me  it  appeared  both  appropriate 
and  beautiful.  The  sarcophagus  is  extremely  rich.  A  draped  figure 
of  Italy,  crowned  like  Cybele  with  triple  towers,  is  in  the  attitude  of 
pointing  to  a  medallion  of  the  poet  in  bas-relief,  and  weeping  for  the 
loss  of  a  favourite  son.  Is  it  possible  for  a  design  to  express  more 
simplicity  or  greater  pathos  ?  There  is  however  one  defect  so  glaring 
as  to  strike  every  spectator,  but  wiiich  was  not  the  fault  of  Canova. 
The  name  of  the  Countess  of  Albany,  widow  of  the  last  of  the  Stu- 
arts, at  whose  expense  the  monument  was  erected,  is  even  more  con- 
spicuous than  that  of  Alfieri  himself.  It  is  emblazoned  in  large  let- 
ters in  front,  and  a  special  record  is  made  of  an  act  of  munificence — 
perhaps  a  tribute  of  genuine  affection.  This  titled  personage  was  in 
plain  terms  the  mistress  of  the  poet,  and  whatever  was  the  strength  of 
her  attachment,  taste  and  refinement  surely  might  have  dictated  a  less 
ostentatious  and  a  more  delicate  mode  of  expressing  her  sorrow. 

A  few  feet  farther  on  in  the  same  aisle,  the  visitant  finds  the  sepul- 
chral urn  of  Machiavelli,  with  a  figure  of  History  holding  his  medal- 
lion. In  the  minds  of  most  of  my  readers,  a  prejudice  is  probably 
associated  with  his  name,  which  has  become  a  generic  term  in  our  lan- 
guage, to  express  a  sort  of  Jesuitical,  refined,  wily,  and  cunning  po- 
licy. Such  a  stigma,  it  is  believed,  has  arisen  rather  from  the  calum- 
nies of  his  enemies,  than  from  a  fair  construction  of  his  writings.  In 
the  course  of  my  collegiate  studies,  I  recollect  to  have  read  a  transla- 
tion of  his  works,  from  the  mere  curiosity  of  arriving  at  the  origin  of 
a  word  in  common  use  in  our  country,  and  to  have  laid  down  the  book 
without  finding  any  thing  to  justify  the  etymology  and  import  of  the 
epithet.  The  doctrines  broached  in  his  Prince,  the  only  objectiona- 
ble portion  of  his  voluminous  works,  are  not  principles  upon  which  he 
himself  acted,  but  merely  abstract  views  of  policy,  drawn  Irom  a  pro- 
found knowledge  of  the  human  passions  and  of  the  corruptions  of  courts. 
If  others  have  availed  themselves  of  his  insight  into  character,  and  have 
vrduced  his  hypothetical  cases  into  practice,  the  fault  is  not  chargeable 


lOS        LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE. 

upon  him.  At  all  events,  the  Florentines  consider  MachiavcUi  as  one 
of  the  most  illustrious  men  of"  his  age,  distinguished  alike  for  his  ta- 
lents and  his  devoted  attachment  to  republican  principles. 

la  the  character  of  old  Galileo — he  that  was  denounced  as  a  here- 
tic for  inventing  the  telescope,  and  for  broaching  the  dangerous  doc- 
trine, that  the  earth  moves  round  the  sun,  instead  of  the  sun  round 
the  earth — there  can  be  no  mistake.  His  tomb  is  in  the  other  aisle 
of  this  church,  nearly  opposite  that  of  Michael  Angelo.  Notwith- 
standing the  opinion  of  critics,  the  design  appeared  to  me  pecuharly 
appropriate.  The  monument  is  surmounted  by  two  figures,  one  re- 
presenting Geometry,  and  the  other,  Astronomy,  emblematic  of  the 
departments  of  science,  in  which  the  philosopher  particularly  ex- 
celled. He  owes  his  pile  of  sculptured  marble  to  the  munificence  of 
a  private  family  ;  for  like  all  the  great  men  of  Florence,  he  died  an 
exile  from  his  native  city,  persecuted,  blind,  and  pennyless.  The 
events  of  his  life  are  too  well  known  to  need  a  recapitulation.  He  is 
said  to  have  been  born  on  the  day  of  Michael  Angelo's  death,  and  on 
the  day  of  his  death,  Sir  Isaac  Newton  was  born.  If  this  remarka- 
ble coincidence  be  a  fact,  such  an  unbroken  chain  of  intellect  would 
almost  lead  one  to  believe  in  the  Pythagorean  doctrine  of  the  trans- 
migration of  souls. 

On  one  side  of  Santa  Croce  is  an  extensive  convent,  enclosing  spa- 
cious, open  areas,  tastefully  shaded  with  evergreens.  We  could  not 
learn  that  it  contains  many  inmates  ;  and  the  whole  precincts  were 
silent  as  the  grave.  The  cloisters  are  still  used  as  a  cemetery,  and 
numerous  white  monuments,  elegantly  wrought,  have  recently  been 
erected  along  the  walls.  But  the  principal  burying-ground  of  Flo- 
rence is  two  or  three  miles  from  the  town,  and  the  practice  of  inter- 
ring the  dead  in  churches  has  here,  as  in  all  the  other  large  cities  of 
Italy,  been  in  a  great  measure  discontinued. 

The  church  of  St.  Loi  enzo  ranks  next  to  that  of  St.  Croce  in  point 
of  interest.  It  was  founded  by  one  of  the  untitled  ancestors  of  the 
Medicean  family,  in  the  same  age  with  the  Cathedral,  and  was  built 
by  the  same  architect.  The  plain,  substantial,  republican  merchant 
by  whom  it  was  endowed,  sought  only  to  erect  a  temple  which  should 
be  expressive  of  his  piety,  and  not  of  his  wealth,  accumulated  by  ho- 
nest industry.  His  intentions  were  fulfilled,  and  the  edifice  is  indica- 
tive of  his  character — simple,  dignified,  and  unostentatious.  Every 
one  is  acquainted  with  the  history  of  the  Medici.  As  with  all  other 
aristocracies,  the  links  in  the  chain  of  cause  and  effect  are  few. 
Wealth  and  talents  begat  power ;  power,  luxury  ;  and  luxury,  op- 
pression.    An  epitome  of  the  story  of  the  family  is  read  in  the  orna- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.       109 

ments  of  St.  Lorenzo.  John  de  Medici,  the  founder,  though  a  secu- 
lar man,  thought  only  of  a  church,  regardless  of  a  tomb,  content  that 
his  dust  should  mingle  with  common  earth  :  his  descendants,  on  the 
contrary,  though  invested  with  the  highest  ecclesiastical  dignities,  for- 
got the  church,  so  far  at  least  as  it  respects  any  practical  purposes  of 
piety,  and  dreamed  only  of  splendid  mausolea. 

John,  the  pious  and  worthy  ancestor,  has  received  no  sepulchral 
honours.  His  son  Cosimo,  sometimes  styled  pater  patria^  sleeps  in 
front  of  the  High  Altar,  under  a  porphyry  slab  in  the  pavement,  ele- 
gantly inlaid  with  gems.  .  But  even  this  degree  of  magnificence  did 
not  satisfy  his  posterity.  Pope  Leo  X.  and  Clement  V'H.  The  former 
planned,  and  the  latter  employed  Michael  Angelo  to  execute  the  sa- 
cristy in  St.  Lorenzo,  as  a  family  cemetery  of  tiie  Medici.  By  the 
time  the  place  of  interment  was  prepared,  the  stock  had  so  far  degene- 
rated, that  their  deeds  were  not  worth  commemorating.  Both  of  the 
Popes  died  at  Rome,  and  their  tombs  must  of  course  give  additional 
eclat  to  St.  Peter's.  Thus  was  the  great  artist  left  to  waste  his  skill 
in  immortalizing  dunces.  His  works  have  been  much  praised  and 
ranked  among  the  chef  d'oeuvres  of  his  chisel.  The  execution  no 
doubt  is  very  perfect ;  but  are  the  designs  so  ? — One  of  the  tombs  is 
ornamented  with  figures  of  Night  and  Day,  and  another  with  Dawn 
and  Twilight.  Now  who,  without  the  aid  of  a  cicerone  at  his  elbow, 
would  be  able  to  recognize  these  allegorical  personages  ?  I  was  more 
pleased  with  a  rough  hewn  and  unfinished  block  of  his  marble,  than 
with  the  more  elaborate  specimens  of  his  skill ;  because  the  former 
presented  a  vivid  image  of  the  man  at  his  work,  exhibiting  the  rude 
marks  of  the  chisel,  just  as  they  were  impressed  and  left  three  centu- 
ries ago.  --> 

But  I  have  not  yet  done  with  the  historical  description  of  this  church. 
The  descendants  of  Lorenzo  de  Medici,  the  other  son  of  John  who 
was  the  progenitor  of  the  famUy,  aspired  to  military  nobihty,  as  the 
other  branch  of  the  stock  had  to  ecclesiastical  preferment.  Cosimo  L 
assumed  the  title  of  Grand  Duke,  under  whose  auspices  was  conunenced 
an  addition  to  the  church  of  St.  Lorenzo,  which  with  all  its  immea- 
surable wealth  may  emphatically  be  styled  the  Folly  of  the  Medici.  It 
is  in  the  form  of  an  octagonal  chapel  or  rather  tower,  about  ninety 
feet  in  diameter  and  two  hundred  in  height,  standing  behind  the 
church,  and  communicating  with  it  by  a  rude  entrance.  No  pen  can 
adequately  describe  the  splendid  waste  of  materials,  which  tiic  inte- 
rior exhibits.  Its  riches  set  oriental  luxury  at  defiance,  and  the  whole 
chapel  filled  with  gold  would  scarcely  amount  to  the  sum,  which  has 
been  expended,  to  the  impoverishment  of  millions  of  Tuscan  subjects. 


no        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

The  spectator  stands  amazed  with  the  chaos  of  brilliancy,  which 
flashes  around  him  ;  and  it  is  some  time  before  he  can  bring  his  mind 
to  an  analysis  of  the  architecture,  or  the  confused  splendour  of  the 
materials.  Oriental  granite,  the  most  precious  marbles  from  all  coun- 
tries, several  varieties  of  jasper,  lapis  lazuli  in  profusion,  porphyry, 
chalcedony,  green,  yellow,  and  red  antique,  topazes,  rubies,  pearl, 
and  whatever  else  the  east  or  the  south  produces,  have  here  been 
thrown  together  without  much  order  and  with  less  taste. 

The  walls  are  entirely  covered  with  these  precious  stones.  Luxury 
has  wantoned  with  wealth,  and  the  only  governing  principle  seems  to 
have  been,  to  be  as  prodigal  as  possible.  The  pavement  is  strewed 
with  glittering  rubbish,  and  the  dome  is  yet  in  a  rude  state.  As  for 
the  few  dead  whose  ashes  have  been  gleaned  and  deposited  in  this 
sumptuous  mausoleum,  they  present  nothing  save  proud  sarcophagi  and 
royal  insignia  to  attract  the  eye  of  the  traveller.  Let  them  sleep  on  : 
their  slumbers  shall  not  be  disturbed  by  the  tramphng  of  my  footsteps 
over  their  tombs.  The  family  of  the  Medici  was  extinct,  before  this 
chapel  was  in  a  state  of  forwardness  to  receive  even  the  last  of  a  de- 
generate race  ;  and  although  it  has  now  been  in  progress  two  hundred 
years,  another  line  of  Grand  Dukes  may  descend  to  the  tomb  of  the 
Capulets,  ere  the  splendid  gew-gaw  is  completed.  A  few  men  were 
lazily  at  work,  the  clinking  of  whose  hammers  like  the  tapping  of  so 
many  woodpeckers,  was  reverberated  from  the  vacant  and  gloomy 
dome. 

Our  visit  to  the  Laurentian  Library,  in  an  old  convent  adjoining  the 
church  of  St.  Lorenzo,  was  extremely  interesting.  A  fine  shaded 
court  spreads  before  the  cloisters,  and  the  building  has  an  air  of  re- 
tirement as  well  as  of  venerable  antiquity.  Here  indeed  is  a  monu- 
ment, worthy  of  the  better  days  of  the  Medici,  when  liberty,  learning, 
and  the  arts  flourished  under  their  protecting  influence,  till  Florence 
became  the  Athens  of  Italy.  The  library  was  founded  by  the  elder 
Cosimo,  and  enriched  by  his  descendants  with  a  munificence  com- 
mensurate with  their  wealth,  power,  and  love  of  letters.  Even  the 
Grand  Dukes  found  patronage  fashionable,  and  spared  something 
from  their  luxuries  to  swell  the  contributions  to  its  treasures. 

The  arrangements  of  the  hall  are  entirely  unique.  On  each  side 
of  the  aisle,  substantial  oaken  benches  with  backs  to  them  like  the 
seats  in  our  old-fashioned  churches  extend  to  the  walls.  To  these 
the  rarer  books  are  fastened  with  iron  chains,  and  covered  with  can- 
vass to  protect  them  from  the  dust.  Some  of  the  ponderous  folios, 
locked  by  massive  clasps,  scarcely  require  such  precautions  to  keep 
them  in  their  places,  as  one  man  would  be  unable  to  lift  the  volume, 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         Ill 

il"  he  were  disposed  to  pilfer.  A  Florentine  gentleman,  of  whose  nu- 
merous attentions  and  kindnesses  I  shall  hereafter  have  frequent  occa- 
sion to  speak,  accompanied  us  to  the  library,  and  as  he  was  intimately 
acquainted  with  all  its  officers,  they  cheerfully  brought  out  its  choicest 
treasures  for  our  inspection.  Among  these  were  a  copy  of  Virgil, 
made  in  the  third  century — the  Pandects  of  Justinian — Missals  of  the 
Pope  with  splendid  illuminations — a  Syriac  copy  of  the  Gospels,  done 
in  the  sixth  century — and  Dante's  works  containing  likenesses,  exe- 
cuted with  a  pen.  To  tiiese  were  added  the  still  choicer  manuscripts 
of  Petrarch's  Letters,  and  some  of  his  poetry,  in  his  own  hand- 
writing ;  the  original  of  the  Decameron  of  Boccace  ;  together  with 
the  autograph  of  Alfieri's  Tragedies.  The  latter  was  in  the  habit  of 
first  writing  out  in  full  all  his  plays  in  prose,  (copies  of  which  are  pre- 
served,) and  of  then  doing  them  into  verse — a  mode  of  composition, 
which  would  seem  to  be  unfavourable  to  any  thing  like  inspiration, 
and  a  species  of  drudgery  to  which  one  would  hardly  think  an  im- 
petuous character  like  the  poet  could  be  brought  to  submit.  He  has 
prefixed  to  each  of  his  productions  his  own  opinions  of  its  merits,  by 
which  it  appears,  that  he  was  seldom  satisfied  Avith  his  writings. 

Our  credulity  was  somewhat  severely  put  to  the  test  by  a  philoso- 
phical relic,  preserved  under  a  glass  case  in  this  library.  It  is  said  to 
be  the  forefinger  of  Galileo.  Nothing  is  more  common  than  to  em- 
balm the  different  members  of  saints,  such  as  ears,  noses,  teeth,  and 
toes  ;  but  that  sucii  a  mark  of  veneration  should  be  shown  to  the  pro- 
fane dust  of  a  heretic,  is  one  of  the  greatest  miracles  in  which  the 
church  of  Rome  abounds.  However,  as  the  old  philosopher  previous 
to  his  death  retracted,  on  his  bended  knees,  the  damnable  heresy  that 
the  earth  moves  round  the  sun,  it  is  possible  his  persecutors  relented 
and  consecrated  a  portion  of  the  learned  penitent.  At  all  events, 
having  long  since  found  that  scepticism  is  one  of  the  most  uncomfort- 
able commodities,  which  a  traveller  can  possibly  carry  about  with  him, 
we  renounced  all  doubts  and  gazed  upon  the  withered  relic,  as  the  ve- 
ritable index,  which  once  pointed  to  the  blue  heavens  of  Italy,  and 
traced  the  phenomena  of  the  planetary  world. 

Of  the  several  other  churches  at  which  calls  were  made,  two  only 
will  be  mentioned — those  of  Santa  Maria  Novella,  and  the  Santa  An- 
nunziata.  The  former  is  a  large  fantastic  Gothic  edifice,  built  in  the 
14th  century,  fronting  one  of  the  most  spacious  squares  in  tlic  city, 
and  showing  to  best  possible  advantage.  Its  interior  is  rich,  but 
gloomy,  containing  many  paintings  which  are  rather  curious,  as  early 
specimens  of  the  arts,  than  valuable  for  their  intrinsic  excellencies. 


112        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

The  genius  of  Boccace  has  imparted  an  interest  to  its  sombre  aisles 
by  laying  here  the  opening  scene  of  his  Decameron. 

The  church  of  the  Annunciation,  hke  the  one  at  Genoa  of  the  same 
name,  is  the  most  fashionable  in  town.  It  fronts  the  head  of  one  of 
those  wide,  straight,  aud  liandsome  streets,  which  diverge  like  radii 
from  the  Piazza  del  Duonio.  Its  principal  popularity  arises  from  the 
celebrity  of  its  JMadonna,  who  continues  to  perform  all  sorts  of  mira- 
cles even  in  this  age  of  philosophical  truth  and  knowledge.  She  sets 
more  bones,  staunches  more  wounds,  and  performs  more  marvellous 
cures,  than  all  the  physicians  of  Florence,  if  the  legends  of  devotees 
are  to  be  taken  as  authority.  At  the  very  threshold  of  the  church, 
consisting  of  a  deep  porch,  or  more  properly  cloisters,  votive  tablets 
cover  the  walls  from  the  pavement  to  the  ceiUng.  Here  may  be  seen 
portrayed  innumerable  accidents  by  flood  and  field — wrecks  of  vessels 
— frantic  horses  and  capsized  vehicles  in  all  possible  attitudes — wound- 
ed persons  spouting  blood — and  skeleton  forms  rising  from  their  sick 
Ijeds — all,  all  are  restored  to  lite  by  the  miraculous  interference  of  the 
Madonna.  Some  of  the  tablets  have  just  been  suspended,  bearing 
the  dates  of  1825  and  1826.  There  will  doubtless  be  a  plentiful  ac- 
cession during  the  present  season,  as  the  return  of  the  papal  jubilee 
gives  to  the  year  unusual  sanctity. 

The  interior  of  the  Annunziata  is  extremely  rich  and  beautiful.  Its 
dome  is  magnificent,  and  its  chapels  and  shrines  are  as  splendid  as 
the  costliest  materials  can  render  them.  In  the  month  of  May,  a  don- 
key is  led  in  solemn  procession  over  the  mosaic  pavement  to  the  High 
Altar,  bearing  a  sack  of  presents  to  the  Virgin.  In  the  cloisters  of  the 
adjoining  convent  there  is  an  extensive  cemetery  which  was  examined 
without  finding  many  distinguished  names.  On  the  wall,  near  the 
point  of  junction  with  the  church,  is  the  celebrated  fresco  painting  of 
the  Madonna  dclla  Sacca,  so  called  from  its  having  been  executed  by 
Andrew  del  Sarto  for  a  sack  of  corn.  If  it  possesses  no  other  merits 
than  1  could  discern,  the  monks  had  the  worst  of  the  bargain. 

The  Museum  of  Natural  History  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  ob- 
jects which  the  traveller  finds  at  Florence.  It  is  one  of  the  best  ar- 
ranged and  best  regulated  institutions  of  the  kind  I  have  ever  seen,  not 
excepting  even  the  Garden  of  Plants  at  Paris,  to  which  it  bears  a 
strong  resemblance,  inferior  indeed  in  extent,  but  not  in  the  preserva- 
tion of  its  articles.  All  the  departments  of  natural  science  are  re- 
spectably filled,  and  some  of  them,  particularly  those  of  ornithology, 
mineralogy,  and  conchology,  are  extremely  rich.  The  arrangement 
of  the  birds  is  remarkably  neat.  Each  of  them  perches  upon  the 
Ijranch  of  a  tree,  and  holds  in  its  beak  a  green  leaf,  inscribed  with  its 


LETTEKS  FK03I  KUiiOPE.  113 

name  in  white  letters.  The  fishes  and  reptiles  are  disposed  in  jars, 
lilled  witli  transparent  fluids,  thus  appearing  to  be  immersed  in  their 
native  element.  In  the  cabinet  of  mineralogy  are  several  marble  ta- 
bles, inlaid  with  gems,  and  of  exquisite  workmanship. 

But  the  anatomical  preparations  in  wax  form  the  most  striking  and 
peculiar  feature  in  this  Museum.  I  believe  the  world  is  indebted  to 
Florence  for  the  invention  of  these  substitutes  to  supply  the  place  of 
real  subjects  ;  and  so  celebrated  have  they  become,  that  copies  of  them 
are  frequently  made  for  medical  institutions  in  other  countries.  Seve- 
ral sets  have  gone  to  the  United  States.  Here  may  be  seen  every 
part  of  the  human  body,  internal  as  well  as  external,  so  exactly  deli- 
neated and  coloured,  as  almost  to  deceive  the  spectator  into  a  belief, 
that  iie  surveys  real  bone  and  muscle.  Many  of  the  more  diflicult  cases 
in  surgery  are  portrayed  to  the  life  ;  and  a  knowledge  of  the  fact, 
that  the  preparations  are  of  wax,  relieves  the  mind  from  a  portion  of 
the  pain,  which  it  feels  in  examining  an  exhibition  of  real  suffering. 
'J'lie  articles  are  displayed  in  as  delicate  a  manner  as  possible,  and  la- 
dies often  go  through  the  whole  collection. 

There  is  however  one  department  of  this  Museum,  on  which  the 
eye  of  neither  man  nor  woman  can  light  without  creating  a  thrill  of 
horror  : — 1  refer  to  the  illustrations  of  the  ravages  of  the  plague  at 
Florence  in  1348,  alluded  to  in  the  introduction  of  the  Decameron. 
These  delineations  are  also  in  wax,  forming  a  series,  and  contained  in 
three  glass  cases.  It  must  have  required  no  ordinary  effort  of  the 
imagination  to  combine  so  many  horrible  images,  and  such  loathsome 
forms  of  death,  as  are  presented  in  these  vivid  pictures  of  the  pesti- 
lence. Even  the  masterly  descriptions  of  Thucydides  and  Boccace 
arc  here  surpassed.  Imagine  the  ruins  of  a  splendid  city — reptiles  of 
the  most  odious  kind  crawling  over  broken  pillars,  and  nestling  in  di- 
lapidated houses— heaps  of  the  dying  and  dead  piled  promiscuously 
together  in  all  possible  attitudes — carniverous  animals  fastening  upon 
dilacerated  corses,  with  an  image  of  Death  surveying  the  hideous 
scene  of  destruction  with  a  malignant  smile — and  then  you  will  have 
but  a  faint  idea  of  these  siiocking  illustrations.  It  is  a  fact,  that  one 
of  our  countrymen,  who  was  at  Florence  last  winter,  and  whose 
nerves  are  not  remarkably  delicate,  declared  that  he  could  not  sleep 
for  several  nights  after  witnessing  this  exhibition. 

I  am  happy  to  escape  as  soon  as  possible  from  the  breath  of  the 
pestilence,  and  to  conduct  the  reader  into  a  fine    Botanic  Garden,~^ 
which  joins  the  Museum  and  forms  a  part  of  the  establishment.    The 
grounds  are  extensive,  and  laid  out  with  more  science  than  taste.    Too 
much  rather  than  too  little  has  been  done  ;  and  the  eye  looks  in  vain 

VOL.  II.  15 


114         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

for  any  of  that  negligent  wiklness  of  nature,  which  constitutes  the 
charm  of  an  Enghsh  Garden,  even  when  devoted  solely  to  improve- 
ments in  botanical  science.  The  green-houses  are  sufficiently  nume- 
rous, to  give  all  the  principal  climates  in  the  world  ;  and  the  labels  of 
the  plants  exposed  to  the  open  air  are  protected  from  the  weather  by 
small  glass  receivers — a  peculiarity  which  appeared  to  me  worthy  of 
imitation. 

Not  far  from  the  Museum  stands  the  Ducal  Palace,  called  the  Pa- 
lazzo Pitti — an  enormous  pile,  which  appears  the  more  lofty  and  huge 
from  its  position  on  an  acclivity  so  steep,  that  a  carriage  can  scarcely 
drive  up  to  the  front  door  with  safety.  It  is  three  stories  high — the 
first  of  the  Doric,  the  second  of  the  Ionic,  and  the  third  of  the  Com- 
posite order  of  architecture,  the  whole  rusticated  in  the  Tuscan  style, 
giving  to  the  exterior  an  air  of  rude  and  gloomy  grandeur,  but  nothing 
of  beauty.  The  dark  complexion  of  the  stone  contributes  to  its 
heavy  and  sombre  character.  It  was  was  built  by  Luca  Pitti,  a  wealthy 
republican  merchant  in  the  15th  century,  and  on  the  decline  of  that 
family,  it  was  purchased  by  Cosimo  I.  From  that  age  to  the  present 
time,  it  has  continued  to  be  the  principal  residence  of  the  Grand 
Dukes  of  Tuscany,  who  have  constantly  been  contributing  to  its  em- 
bellishments, till  the  interior  has  become  one  of  the  richest  palaces  in 
the  world.  But  all  its  splendour  cannot  obliterate  the  traces  of  crimes, 
of  which  it  has  been  the  seat,  from  the  secret  murders  of  a  former 
period,  to  the  court  intrigues  of  a  more  recent  date. 

The  only  entrance  is  by  lofty  arched  portals,  leading  into  a  spacious 
court,  which  is  ornamented  with  a  fountain.  In  a  pannel  of  the  wall 
is  a  bronze  bas-relief  likeness  of  the  ass,  which  drew  all  the  stones 
with  which  the  Palace  was  constructed.  A  handsome  Latin  inscrip- 
tion commemorates  the  patient  labours  of  the  animal,  the  remembrance 
of  whose  services  is  likely  to  outlive  the  fame  of  some  of  the  nobility, 
who  have  since  been  tenants  of  the  edifice. 

After  ascending  several  stately  flights  of  marble  steps,  and  being 
kept  waiting  half  an  hour,  shut  up  in  a  cheerless  antechamber,  with 
brick  pavements,  naked  walls,  and  a  group  of  smutty-faced  statues  for 
the  companions  of  our  imprisonment,  the  doors  were  flung  open,  and 
we  were  admitted  into  the  Grand  Duke's  long  suite  of  apartments. 
These  are  certainly  not  only  rich  and  splendid,  but  in  good  taste,  far 
surpassing  any  thing  of  the  kind  I  have  seen  in  Italy.  Some  of  the 
rooms  have  floors  of  walnut — others  of  marble  or  composition,  all 
neat  and  highly  polished.  The  ceilings  are  covered  with  frescos  of 
more  than  ordinary  merit ;  and  the  walls  are  hung  with  Lyonese  tapes- 
fry  of  the  finest  qualities   and  richest  figures.      Cliairs,  sofas,  and 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         115 

couciics  covered  with  crimson  velvet,  and  large  French  mirrors  set 
off  tlie  saloons  to  advantage.  The  tables  and  mantel-pieces,  both  of 
the  finest  marbles,  arc  exquisitely  beautiful.  Some  of  the  former  are 
inlaid  with  precious  stones,  forming  a  variety  of  figures  ;  and  one  of 
the  latter  is  supported  by  two  large  white  eagles,  of  elegant  workman- 
sliip.  The  fire-places  generally  have  an  air  of  neatness  and  comfort, 
not  to  be  met  with  in  most  palaces  on  the  continent. 

In  a  small  octagonal  temple,  at  the  extremity  of  the  suite  of  apart- 
ments, stands  Canova's  celebrated  statue  of  Venus.  She  occupies 
the  centre  of  the  magnificent  shrine,  of  which  she  is  the  sole  tenant, 
elevated  upon  a  pedestal  in  peerless  beauty,  and  multiplying  her  image 
in  the  mirrors  which  cover  the  walls.  The  Grand  Duke  has  certainly 
given-  the  Paphian  goddess  an  opportunity  to  show  off  her  charms  in 
all  their  brilhancy  ;  and  notwithstanding  her  modest  drapery,  she  by 
no  means  stints  the  admiration  of  the  beholder.  This  statue  is  reckon- 
ed one  of  (he  clief  d'ocuvres  of  tlie  great  master,  who  could  do  all  but 
make  the  marble  speak  and  breathe.  If  I  durst  venture  a  remark  upon 
the  conception  of  such  a  mind,  and  upon  the  creative  skill  of  such  a 
hand,  it  would  be,  that  some  of  the  limbs  and  features  of  his  personifi- 
cation of  abstract  beauty  are  slightly  wanting  in  delicacy  of  propor- 
tion. The  neck  appeared  to  me  too  gross,  and  the  nose,  where  it  joins 
the  forehead,  too  thick.  Rut  it  is  more  than  ten  thousand  to  one,  that 
the  artist  is  right  and  my  criticism  in  the  wrong. 

The  Pitti  Palace  contains  much  the  choirr^st  cullcction  of  paintings, 
that  has  ever  fallen  within  my  sphere  of  observation.  Here  are  many 
of  the  first  pictures  of  the  great  Italian  masters.  One  room  after  an- 
other opens  its  treasures  upon  the  visitant,  till  his  mind  is  surfeited 
with  the  very  richness  of  the  repast.  We  gazed  and  gazed,  till  our 
necks  were  stiff,  and  our  legs  weary.  Several  hours  were  intensely 
occupied  in  the  examination,  and  as  many  days  would  scarcely  enable 
me  to  do  justice  to  such  a  gallery.  Where  so  many  are  good,  it  is 
difficult  to  select  the  best.  But  with  regard  to  tlie  productions  of  one 
artist,  there  can  be  no  mistake.  The  pictures  of  Raphael  do  not  in 
my  opinion  admit  of  comparison.  He  is  as  immeasurably  elevated 
above  all  others,  as  Homer  and  Virgil  and  Dante  and  Shakspeare  are 
above  the  minor  Greek,  Latin,  Italian,  and  Englisli  poets.  Other 
artists  may  occasionally,  nay  frequently  do  a  good  thing  ;  but  he  is 
always  great,  always  supported  by  his  genius,  and  never  sinks  to  the 
level  of  ordinary  minds.  These  remarks  should  be  restricted  to  his 
second  and  third  manner,  after  he  had  escaped  from  the  trammels  of 
Perugino,  and  formed  a  style  of  his  own. 

This  collection  contains  half  a  dozen  of  his  pictures.     Of  these  his 


116        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

Madonna  della  Seggiola  is  the  most  celebrated,  and  probably  one  of  the 
most  perfect  productions  in  the  world.  It  has  been  to  Paris,  where 
it  made  a  great  noise,  and  was  imitated  in  the  tapestry  of  the  Gobelins. 
The  Virgin  Mother  is  represented  in  a  sitting  posture,  (whence  the 
distinctive  appellation  of  the  picture,)  with  the  infant  Saviour  in  her 
embraces,  and  another  child,  St.  John  the  Baptist,  at  her  side.  Her 
form,  her  features,  an  indescribable  sweetness  of  expression,  the  ma- 
ternal tenderness  beaming  from  her  soft  hazel  eye,  the  modest  and 
pious  consciousness  of  being  the  mother  of  a  God,  the  position  of  the 
child's  cheek  to  her  own,  expressing  at  once  both  dignity  and  fondness  of 
affection,  the  propriety  of  costume,  the  colouring,  the  finish — all,  all 
are  divine.  The  canvass  is  but  a  few  feet  square,  and  therefore  con- 
veniently portable.  It  is  said  the  Grand  Duke  never  goes  any  distance 
from  home,  without  carrying  the  Madonna  della  Seggiola  in  his  coach, 
as  a  sort  of  Palladium  ;  and  any  one  who  has  seen  the  picture  will 
pardon  an  act  of  idolatrous  partiality,  which  to  others  may  manifest  a 
superstitious  weakness  of  character.  With  the  divine  image  of  the 
Virgin  for  his  companion  and  protectress,  he  may  feel  as  secure  in  his 
travels  among  Italian  banditti,  as  did  the  poet  in  his  rambles  amidst  the 
monsters  of  the  Sabine  forests,  while  chanting  the  praises  and  loves 
of  his  I.alage.* 

Among  the  other  productions  of  the  same  artist  in  this  collection, 
are  portraits  of  Cardinal  Bibbiena,  and  Pope  Julio  II.  The  former 
was  the  personal  friend  and  patron  of  Raphael.  He  has  justly  been 
immortalized  for  his  liberality.  The  latter  (his  Hohness)  is  represent- 
ed sitting  in  his  arm-chair,  with  a  table  before  him,  in  conversation 
with  an  ecclesiastic,  and  another  person  behind  him.  All  three  of  the 
faces,  the  peculiar  and  strongly  marked  features,  the  attitudes  of  the 
trio,  the  perfect  nature  of  the  drapery,  evince  the  matchless  skill  of 
the  master.  Some  connoisseurs  prefer  either  of  these  pictures  to  the 
Madonna  of  the  Chair,  above  described,  more  perhaps  from  the  sub- 
ject than  the  manner. 

It  is  the  fashion  in  Italy  at  present  to  decry  the  portraits  of  Carlo 
Dolce,  for  what  reason  I  am  unable  to  say,  having  never  been  initiated 
into  the  secrets  and  technicalities  of  professed  amateurs.  A  young 
artist  told  me  gravely,  that  it  was  very  easy  to  make  such  pictures,  and 
then  went  on  to  describe  how  it  might  be  done.     He  reminded  me  of 


*  Namque  me  silva  lupus  in  Sabina, 
Dum  meam  canto  Laiagen,  et  ultra 
Terminum  curis  vagor  expeilitus, 
Fugit  inermem. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        J17 

a  flippant  sopliomorc,  who  imagines  himself  capable  of  imitating  the 
attic  simplicity  of  Addison's  style,  until  actual  experiment  satisfies  him 
to  the  contrary.  My  only  reply  to  the  exposition  was — "  go  thou  and 
do  likewise."  With  me  Carlo  Dolce  is  a  favourite,  and  some  of  his 
faces  are  surpassed  by  no  pencil  save  Raphael's. 

In  this  collection  is  the  far-famed  Cleopatra,  by  Guide ;  and  the 
Three  Fates,  the  weird  sisters  of  antiquity,  by  Michael  Angelo.  The 
latter  artist,  in  my  humble  opinion,  succeeded  better  both  as  an  archi- 
tect and  a  sculi)tor,  than  as  a  painter.  1  have  however  yet  seen  but 
few  productions  of  his  pencil.  Salvator  Rosa's  pieces  afforded  less 
pleasure  than  was  anticipated.  He  is  considered  the  Byron  of  paint- 
ers, darkening  his  canvass  with  a  sort  of  wild  and  gloomy  grandeur. 
A  high  wind  has  always  splintered  all  his  trees.  Titian's  mistress  is  a 
tenant  of  the  Pitti  Palace.  She  is  rather  pretty,  but  tricked  out  with 
too  much  (inery.  and  too  broadly  betraying  her  real  character.  '•'•  The 
torture  of  8t.  Agatha"  furnishes  a  striking  illustration  of  my  remarks 
on  the  Genoese  galleries.  Two  huge  pairs  of  pincers,  such  as  black- 
smiths use  in  shoeing  horses,  are  fastened  with  a  firm  gripe  upon  the 
naked  breasts  of  this  martyred  saint,  for  the  purpose  of  eradicating  the 
fountains  of  life.  Is  it  possible,  that  any  one  can  contemplate  such  a 
picture  with  complacency,  whatever  may  be  its  merits  ?  This  is  by  no 
means  a  solitary  instance  of  the  delineation  of  such  barbarous  scenes. 
In  Italy  the  sanctity  of  martyrs  is  graduated  exactly  in  proportion  to 
the  atrocities  inflicted  by  their  persecutors,  as  all  these  cruelties  are  as- 
cribed to  the  immediate  instigation  and  agency  of  the  devil,  who  puts 
his  own  ingenuity  to  the  rack  in  devising  tortures  for  saints  of  peculiar 
holiness. 

The  Pitti  Palace  contains  the  private  library  of  the  Grand  Duke, 
consisting  at  present  of  48,000  volumes,  divided  into  twenty-six  com- 
partments of  science,  literature,  and  the  arts.  At  the  commencement 
of  the  late  revolution  in  Italy,  it  comprised  only  9,000  volumes  ;  and 
on  the  return  of  the  Grand  Duke  from  Germany,  no  more  than  19,000  : 
the  remainder  has  since  been  purchased,  and  accessions  are  daily  made. 
Among  the  curiosities  and  rarer  publications  of  the  library  are  a  splen- 
did copy  of  the  Magna  Charta,  on  fine  vellum  paper,  in  letters  of  gold, 
with  illuminations,  and  a  portrait  of  George  the  4th — a  description  of 
the  coronation  of  Napoleon,  with  portraits  of  the  Emperor,  Empress, 
Marshals  and  the  principal  personages  of  the  French  Court — beautiful 
editions  of  several  English  works — history  of  the  oaks  and  forest  trees 
of  North  America — and  a  copy  of  Wilson's  Ornithology.  The  Grand 
Duke  Leopold  is  said  to  pass  most  of  his  mornings  among  his  books. 
He  is  a  young  man  under  the  age  of  thirty,  apparently  of  feeble  con- 


lis        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

stitution  and  phlegmatic  temperament.  He  is  a  nephew  of  the  Em- 
peror of  Austria,  and  married  a  princess  of  Saxony.  But  more  of 
these  things  hereafter  :  justice  compels  me  to  add,  that  I  entered  the 
palace  of  the  Grand  Duke  not  without  prejudice,  and  left  it  with  rather 
a  favourable  impression  of  the  taste  of  the  family. 
/■^"~  Much  cannot,  however,  be  safely  said  in  praise  of  the  Boboli  Garden 
belonging  to  the  Grand  Duke,  but  open  to  the  public  on  all  festas, 
when  it  becomes  a  place  of  fashionable  resort.  We  paid  it  a  visit  on 
one  of  these  occasions,  and  found  half  of  Florence  reposing  in  its 
shades  and  treading  its  alleys.  The  grounds  are  something  more  than 
half  a  mile  square,  embracing  a  great  variety  of  surface,  and  affording 
every  opportunity  for  the  display  of  rural  scenery.  An  acclivity,  so 
steep  as  often  to  render  terraces  necessary,  rises  from  the  rear  of  the 
Palace  to  the  extremity  of  the  garden,  which  commands  a* full  view  of 
the  town,  of  the  Vale  of  the  Arno,  and  of  the  distant  mountains. 
From  this  eminence  the  ground  descends  by  a  declivity  equally  rapid 
into  a  deep  gorge  of  the  hills  on  the  south  of  the  city.  The  whole 
park,  if  so  it  may  be  called,  is  intersected  by  walks,  and  planted  with 
groves  of  ilex,  laurel,  myrtle,  cypress,  pine,  fir,  and  other  shrubbery, 
interspersed  with  flowers.  Sometimes  tangled  copses  of  great  wild- 
ness  and  beauty  are  seen ;  but  too  often  the  alleys  are  bordered  by 
walls  of  verdure  shorn  of  their  negligent  tresses,  and  not  unfrequently 
overarched  by  bowers.  Half  a  dozen  of  these  perfectly  straight  ar- 
bours extend  up  the  slope,  nearly  the  whole  length  of  the  garden,  pre- 
senting long  vistas,  quite  too  artificial  to  be  pretty. 

The  whole  of  the  little  dominion  of  pleasure  and  gaiety  is  nume- 
rously peopled  with  statues.  Divinities,  nymphs,  and  heroes  without 
number  haunt  the  shades.  Many  of  them  are  mutilated  and  rusty, 
originally  bad  for  Florence,  and  the  worse  for  years,  adding  with  few 
exceptions  very  httle  to  the  embellishment  of  the  garden.  At  the 
entrance  are  two  colossal  Dacian  slaves,  by  Michael  Angelo.  In 
the  depth  of  the  ravine,  above  alluded  to,  is  a  circular  fountain,  with  a 
green  and  flowery  island  rising  in  the  centre,  crowned  with  statues  of 
Neptune,  the  Nile,  Euphrates,  and  other  river  gods.  Near  the  margin 
is  another  complex  group,  called  Victory,  which  requires  an  expositor 
to  explain  the  allegory.  The  circlet  of  water  is  several  rods  in  width, 
and  enhvened  by  swarms  of  fishes,  which  seemed  as  intent  on  tlieir 
little  sports,  as  tiie  thousands  of  gay  hearts  and  pretty  faces  that  watched 
their  finny  gambols. 

On  the  very  top  of  the  eminence,  the  Grand  Duke  has  a  coflee- 
house,  and  a  sort  of  observatory  or  terrace,  whence  he  can  survey  no 
small  portion  of  his  Tuscan  dominions.     Here  we  stood  to  see  the 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         119 

sun  go  down  behind  the  distant  Apennines,  and  the  purple  light  ol' 
evening  steal  over  the  landscape.  The  Italian  skies  are  certainly  rich 
and  beautiful.  In  softness  and  delicacy,  they  may  a  little  exceed  our 
own  ;  but  in  brilhancy  and  purity,  ours  are  by  no  moans  inferior.  The 
great  secret  on  this  subject  is,  that  the  skies  of  Italy  iiavo  always  been 
compared  with  the  hazy  and  humid  atmosphere  of  England.  If  it  be 
possible  for  our  artists  to  catch  and  copy  the  glories  of  an  American 
.sunset  in  autumn,  the  richness  of  their  tints  on  comparison  will  not  be 
found  inferior  to  those  of  Salvator  Rosa  or  Claude  Lorraine.  -' 

No  coach  save  the  Grand  Duke's  is  allowed  to  enter  the  Boboli : 
"  when  I  speak  let  no  dog  bark.*'  Ilis  carriage  was  seen  wliirling 
along  the  avenues,  containing  his  confessor,  "  a  fat  jolly  rogue,"  to 
adopt  one  of  the  compound  epithets  applied  by  Lady  Morgan  to  the 
priesthood  of  Italy.  The  holiday  amusement  of  tiie  Boboli  termina- 
ted in  a  sort  of  tragedy,  instead  of  a  farce  in  the  usual  style.  A  child 
two  or  three  years  old  had  strayed  from  its  juvenile  guardians,  and  lost 
itself  in  the  labyrinths  of  verdure.  Its  little  brother  and  sister  filled 
the  garden  with  bitter  lamentations,  which  enlisted  the  whole  multi- 
tude in  search  of  the  infant  runaway. 

The  other  great  public  promenade  at  Florence  is  the  Cascina,  which 
in  plain  English  means  a  cow-past,urc,  but  is  here  applied  to  tiie  farm 
and  farm-house  or  lodge  of  the  Grand  Duke.  It  is  beautifully  situa- 
ted on  the  right  bank  of  the  Arno,  below  the  falls,  and  extends  several 
miles  along  the  river.  These  grounds  are  always  open  to  the  public. 
They  are  richly  shaded  with  forest  trees,  and  intersected  by  avenues 
for  carriages  as  well  as  for  pedestrians.  In  the  centre  of  the  woods 
rises  the  modest  and  pretty  lodge  of  the  Grand  Dufce,  with  its  attend- 
ant buildings.  Here  is  the  great  Corso  or  drive,  as  well  as  the  pro- 
menade of  the  city.  From  5  o'clock  till  dark,  the  roads  are  thronged 
with  coaches  and  equipages,  which  are  rather  splendid.  Our  first 
visit  was  on  the  evening  of  a  festa,  when  all  the  world,  as  the  French 
say,  were  here  assembled.  The  moon-beams  played  in  the  silver  ripples 
of  the  Arno,  and  groups  of  both  sexes  were  warbling  tiicir  solt  Italian 
airs,  in  the  voluptuous  bowers  upon  its  banks.  But  a  truce  to  romance 
for  the  present. 


120         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

LETTER  LIV. 

FLORENCE  CONTINUED — GALLEKY — SKETCH  OF  FIESOLE EXCURSION  TO 

VALLOMBKOSA. 

April,  1826. 

Some  of  my  readers  may  by  this  time  begin  to  inquire  for  the  Gallery, 
which  is  by  far  the  most  prominent  object  at  Florence.  Let  them  be 
assured,  that  it  has  not  been  forgotten.  It  received  both  our  earliest  and 
our  latest  visits  ;  but  as  it  contains  a  little  world  of  curiosities  in  itself, 
its  contents  have  been  reserved,  till  other  topics  were  despatched,  and 
until  my  observations  gleaned  at  sundry  times  might  be  thrown  together 
in  a  connected  sketch.  How  exhaustless  the  subject  is,  may  be  learned 
from  the  fact,  that  one  of  the  hundred  works,  to  which  it  has  given 
rise,  is  comprised  in  seventeen  volumes  folio,  and  several  other  de- 
scriptions contain  ten  folio  volumes  each.  If  an  acquaintance  with 
the  fine  arts  qualified  me  to  abridge  these  tomes,  or  to  present  an  analy- 
sis of  such  a  mass  of  materials,  inchnation  would  recoil  from  the  task  ; 
and  such  of  my  readers,  as  wish  for  any  thing  beyond  a  desultory  and 
brief  notice,  must  refer  to  other  writers.  They  have  a  choice  among 
several  scores  of  authors  of  all  countries,  Italian,  German,  French, 
EngUsh,  and  even  American. 

The  situation  of  the  Gallery  and  the  splendid  specimens  of  the 
works  of  art  scattered  about  its  threshold,  in  some  measure  prepare 
the  mind  for  its  accumulated  treasures.  At  the  end  of  one  of  the 
wings,  and  near  the  entrance,  stands  the  Palazzo  Vecchio,  (the  go- 
vernment house  of  the  republic,  and  once  the  residence  of  the  Me- 
dici,) presenting  two  of  its  venerable  facades  to  the  Square  of  the 
Grand  Duke,  elevating  its  fantastic,  castellated  tower  above  all  the  ad- 
jacent buildings,  and  surrounded  with  an  equestrian  statue  of  Cosimo 
I.  a  fountain  with  its  pile  of  marble,  the  colossal  Hercules  of  Bandi- 
nelli,  and  the  David  of  Michael  Angelo.  The  other  wing  terminates 
on  the  same  square,  in  the  open  Loggia,  or  Portico,  once  used  as  the 
rostrum  of  the  republican  magistrates,  and  still  adorned  with  the  cele- 
brated bronze  statue  of  Perseus,  bearing  the  head  of  Medusa,  and 
Judith  decapitating  Holofernes,  in  marble,  with  many  other  proud 
monuments  of  former  greatness.  The  gallery  itself,  designed  by  Lo- 
renzo the  Magnificent,  and  built  by  Vassari,  the  pupil  of  Michael 
Angelo,  under  the  auspices  of  Cosimo  I.  in  the  year  15G4,  is  in  the 
shape  of  the  Greek  letter  Pi,  its  parallel  sides  extending  from  the 
public  square  above  described  to  the  Arno,  a  distance  of  something 


LETTERS  11103I  EUROPE.  Ul 

more  than  live  hundred  feet.  Here  the  wings  p-t  united  by  an  arch 
and  a  transverse  gallery,  upwards  of  sixty  feet  in  breadth.  Tlie  open 
court  is  traversed  by  a  street,  bordered  by  arcades,  which  are  convert- 
ed into  extensive  bazars.  But  in  point  of  architecture,  this  stupen- 
dous edifice  has  little  to  boast.  It  is  of  the  Tuscan  order,  two  stories 
higli  besides  the  basement,  in  the  uppermost  of  which  is  the  Gallery. 
The  frequent  ascent  to  such  a  height  is  tedious,  particularly  for  ladies ; 
and  stately  as  the  flight  of  steps  are,  the  weariness  of  the  legs  more 
than  counterbalances  the  pleasures  of  the  eye,  including  the  laugh  of 
the  jolly  god,  who  waylays  the  visitant  upon  the  stairs,  and  the  group 
of  Grand  Dukes  and  other  patrons,  in  marble  and  porphyry,  who,  at 
the  entrance,  welcome  him  to  the  fruits  of  their  munificence.  In  the 
second  vestibule,  he  cheerfully  pauses  a  moment  to  take  breath,  and 
survey  the  cabinet  of  antiques,  which  crowd  the  little  octagon. 

At  the  door  a  living  custode,  in  a  laced  coat,  and  with  a  military 
air,  bows  to  the  stranger  and  gives  him  free  admission,  at  any  hour 
between  9  o'clock  and  3,  and  on  all  days  except  festas.  Neither  he 
nor  any  one  of  the  placemen,  scattered  through  this  immense  establish- 
ment, is  allowed  to  receive  a  sous  from  visitants,  who  are  notified  of 
the  fact  by  the  regulations  posted  up  at  the  entrance.  The  whole 
expense  is  defrayed  by  the  government,  and  all  classes  of  tiie  public 
are  freely  permitted  to  share  in  the  common  stock  of  instruction  and 
pleasure  provided  by  its  liberality. 

The  interior  of  this  great  repository  of  fine  arts  conforms  to  the 
outside  as  above  described.  A  gallery,  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  in  width, 
and  about  twenty  in  height,  extends  in  unbroken  aisles  quite  round  the 
building,  a  distance  in  all  of  nearly  eleven  hundred  feet.  The  floor  is 
highly  polished  and  kept  perfectly  neat,  and  the  ceiling  divided  into 
compartments,  is  covered  with  frescos.  One  side  of  the  gallery  opens 
into  the  court,  and  is  furnished  with  coarse  curtains  to  regulate  the 
degree  of  light.  Beneath  the  windows  is  deposited  a  range  of  anti- 
quities, consisting  of  statues,  busts,  and  sarcophagi,  extending  the 
whole  length.  The  other  side  is  lined  by  a  blind  wall,  covered  at  top 
by  a  series  of  portraits  of  distinguished  personages,  of  all  ages  and 
all  countries,  chronologically  arranged.  Under  these  is  a  stratum  of 
pictures,  running  quite  round,  and  illustrating  the  progress  of  the  art. 
At  the  bottom  is  another  range  of  antiques,  similar  to  those  on  the 
opposite  side,  disposed  in  chronological  order,  which  is  the  governing 
principle  in  the  arrangement. 

Only  one  moiety  of  the  Gallery  has  yet  been  described.  A  series 
of  distinct  apartments,  communicating  with  one  another  internally, 
and  opening  by  a  lateral  door  into  the  corridors,  extend  tiic  whole 

VOL.  II.  16 


nz  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE, 

length  of  both  sides,  forming  something  like  twenty  magnificent  tem- 
ples of  (he  arts.  Many  of  them  would  be  worth  visiting  merely  for 
the  beauty  of  tlieir  architecture,  and  their  intrinsic  decorations.  Here 
are  deposited  the  choicest  treasures  of  this  endless  and  invaluable  col- 
lection, kept  under  lock  and  key,  but  opened  daily  to  the  examination 
of  the  admiring  multitude,  who  follow  the  keepers  from  room  to  room. 
Among  these  chambers,  are  several  appropriated  to  paintings  of  the 
Italian  school  in  general — two  exclusively  to  the  Tuscan  school — two 
to  the  Venetian — one  to  the  French — one  to  the  Flemish — one  to  the 
Dutcli — one  to  the  portraits  of  celebrated  painters — one  to  ancient  and 
another  to  modern  bronzes — one  to  medals  and  inscriptions — one  to 
antique  vases — and  one  to  gems  and  precious  stones. 

Pre-eminent  and  triumphant  over  all  the  rest,  rich  as  they  are  in 
the  productions  of  tlie  great  masters  of  every  age,  is  the  apartment 
called  the  Tribune.  This  superb  little  temple  in  the  form  of  an  octa- 
gon, twenty  feet  in  diameter,  with  a  pavement  of  splendid  mosaic, 
walls  lined  with  crimson  velvet,  and  a  dome  inlaid  with  pearl,  has  been 
selected,  on  account  of  enjoying  a  better  light,  as  the  depository  of  the 
most  precious  articles  in  the  Gallery.  Immediately  on  entering  the 
door,  the  eye  of  the  visitant  falls  full  upon  the  immortal  statue  of  the  Ve- 
nus de'Medicis,  which  presents  a  form  as  matchless  in  beauty,  as  did  the 
goddess  herself,  when  she  rose  in  all  her  purity  from  the  wave.  What 
nmst  have  been  the  imagination  of  the  man,  who  could  conceive  the 
image  of  a  being  so  divine — what  the  skill  and  taste  that  could  embo- 
dy the  conception,  and  call  it  forth  from  the  marble  ! 

But  the  subject  so  far  transcends  my  powers,  that  I  will  neither  re- 
peat old  panegyrics,  nor  attempt  new  ones.  He  who  has  read  Byron's 
poetry  will  never  read  my  prose.  With  the  authors  of  some  of  the 
folio  descriptions  of  the  Gallery,  I  might  apply  the  scale,  and  inform 
the  public,  that  the  diminutive  goddess  is  exactly  4  feet,  1 1  inches,  and 
4  lines  in  height :  with  the  dancing  master,  I  could  describe  her  atti- 
tude upon  the  pedestal,  resting  upon  her  left  foot,  with  the  right  brought 
to  the  first  position  ;  one  arm  forming  a  graceful  curve,  and  the  other 
dropping  to  her  waist ;  her  body  gently  inclining  forward,  and  her 
head,  soldier  like,  addressed  to  the  right  :  wdth  the  antiquary  I  might 
trace  her  to  Adrian's  Villa,  look  up  the  label  of  old  Cleomenes,  the 
Athenian  artist,  and  record  just  what  parts  of  her  legs,  and  arms,  and 
trunk,  have  been  added  by  modern  sculptors :  I  might  pursue  her  ad- 
venturous voyages  and  travels  to  Sicily  and  across  the  Alps,  in  the 
midst  of  revolutionary  turmoils  ;  her  sojourn  in  the  Louvre,  and  her 
crowd  of  Parisian  admirers  :  and  after  all,  he  that  has  never  seen  the 
statue  would  know  little  of  its  merits.    There  is  a  grace  seated  upon 


i 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         123 

llic  polished  brow,  and  lurking  in  the  tangles  of  silken  tresses,  a  dt-li- 
catc  softness  in  the  slightly  contracted  eye,  a  charm  in  the  pouting  lip, 
a  sweetness  of  expression  in  the  whole  face,  as  inimitable  as  it  is  inde- 
scribable.    As  to  the  rest, 

"  I  leave  to  learned  fingers  and  wise  hands, 
The  artist  and  his  ape,  to  teach  and  tell 
How  well  his  oonnoisseurship  understands 
The  graceful  bend,  and  (he  voluptuous  swell." 

In  the  Tribune  arc  four  other  pieces  of  ancient  sculpture  of  extra- 
ordinary merit.  Opposite  to  the  Venus  de'Medicis,  stands  the  young 
Apollo,  or  ApolUno,  as  he  is  called  on  account  of  his  diminutive  size, 
being  only  four  feet  and  a  half  high,  and  designed  to  represent  the 
bcauti)  of  the  god  of  the  silver  bow,  in  contrast  with  the  dignity  of  the 
Belvidere.  lie  leans  in  an  easy  attitude  against  tlie  trunk  of  a  tree, 
upon  which  his  quiver  is  suspended,  and  his  right  arm  is  tin-own  care- 
lessly over  his  head.  This  statue  is  entirely  ancient,  and  from  its  simi- 
larity has  been  ascribed  to  the  immortal  author  of  the  Venus. 

On  the  left  of  the  latter  is  the  Knifc-whetter,  whose  character  has 
excited  much  controversy  among  antiquaries.  lie  has  at  one  time 
been  converted  into  the  barber  of  Julius  Ca;sar  ;  at  another,  into  the 
slave  who  discovered  the  conspiracy  of  Cataline,  or  that  of  the  sons  of 
Brutus  to  restore  the  Tarquins.  But  the  general  opinion  at  present 
seems  to  make  him  the  Scythian  slave,  who  was  ordered  to  flay  Mar- 
syas  ;  and  he  is  in  the  attitude  of  sharpening  his  broad  knife  upon  a 
stone,  to  perform  the  bloody  office.*  It  is  ludicrous  enough  that  such 
an  instrument,  which  is  as  broad  and  as  heavy  as  the  point  of  a  scythe, 


*  I  find  no  authority  for  the  assertion,  that  Apollo  performed  the  sanguinary  ope- 
ration of  skinning  the  Phrygian  musician,  by  pioxy.  He  is  represented  as  flay- 
ing his  vanquished  rival  with  his  own  hands.  With  all  due  deference  to  antiqua- 
ries, and  to  add  a  Yankee  guess  to  their  learned  conjectures,  may  not  the  Arrotino 
be  a  copy  of  the  statue,  or  a  part  of  the  statue,  placed  at  the  entrance,  of  the  Ilomao 
Forum,  as  a  terror  to  litigants,  alluded  to  in  the  satires  of  Horace  ? — 

Deinde  eo  dormitum,  non  solicitus,  mihi  quod  eras 
Surgendum  sit  mane,  obeundus  Marsya,  qui  so 
Vultum  ferre  negat  Noviorum  posse  minoris. 

The  object  of  the  statue  was  to  frighten  the  litigious,  by  the  moral  of  the  contest 
between  the  god  of  the  lyre  and  his  antagonist,  and  to  warn  those,  who  were  dis- 
posed to  go  to  law,  that  they  might  expect  lo  be  fleeced  if  not  flayed.  The  imao-e 
of  a  remorseless  executioner,  sharpening  his  instrument,  in  alliifion  to  the  fable, 
was  certainly  a  striking,  forcible,  and  terrific  emblem. 


121  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

should  have  ever  been  considered  a  razor.  Caesar  would  have  had 
more  reason  to  fear  such  a  weapon  playing  about  his  throat,  than  all 
the  spears  and  darts  of  his  Gallic  foes.  Tlie  slave  is  sitting  upon  his 
legs,  busy  at  his  task.  His  short  coarse  hair,  and  the  rude,  deep  lines 
of  his  face,  as  well  as  the  tension  of  evefy  muscle,  give  a  strength  of 
expression  Avhich  can  hardly  be  surpassed. 

On  the  right  of  the  Venus  is  the  group  of  the  Wrestlers,  It  is  rough 
and  tumble  with  them,  and  they  do  not  show  what  an  American  ring 
would  consider  fair  play.  If  this  is  a  specimen  of  ancient  wrestling,  it 
was  a  trial  of  strength,  rather  than  of  skill.  One  of  them  has  the  other 
down  ;  and  the  great  object  of  the  artist  seems  to  have  been,  to  exhi- 
bit the  muscles  to  advantage,  though  the  face  of  the  vanquished  has  a 
strong  expression. 

The  fifth  and  last  article  is  the  statue  of  a  Faun,  whose  air  express- 
es all  the  gaiety  of  those  rural  and  jolly  divinities.  He  is  playing  upon 
cymbals,  with  a  pipe  at  his  feet,  and  his  countenance  hung  with 
wreaths  of  smiles.  Michael  Angelo  gave  him  a  head  and  arms  ;  all 
the  rest  is  ascribed  to  the  chisel  of  Praxiteles.  A  spectator  can  per- 
ceive no  difference  in  the  workmanship  ;  and  it  is  no  small  credit  to 
the  former,  that  his  skill  could  restore  the  mutilated  relic  of  one  of  the 
greatest  of  ancient  statuaries. 

The  Tribune  is  as  rich  in  pictures  as  it  is  in  sculpture.  Here  are 
four  or  five  by  Raphael,  two  of  which  are  considered  his  masterpieces 
— St.  John  in  the  Wilderness,  and  a  portruit  of  La  Fornarina,  or  the 
Baker's  Daughter.  They  are  of  opposite  characters,  and.  show  the 
versatility  of  his  genius.  The  former  is  worthy  of  all  the  grandeur 
and  sanctity  of  the  subject.  But  on  the  latter  he  has  lavished  the  ut- 
most of  his  skill  and  taste.  La  Fornarina  was  the  lady  of  his  love,  or 
in  plain  terms,  his  mistress,  and  the  influence  of  his  passion  may  be 
seen  in  every  touch  of  his  pencil.  No  portrait  that  has  ever  fallen  un- 
der my  observation  will  bear  any  comparison  with  this.  He  has  given 
her  one  of  the  sweetest  faces  imaginable,  blending  the  dignity  of  the 
Roman  matron  with  "  the  amiable  weaknesses""  of  her  character.  An 
elegant  simplicity  is  observed  in  costume  and  ornament.  This  pic- 
ture may  probably  be  regarded  as  the  strongest  expression  of  the  taste 
of  Raphael  ;  and  taking  a  similar  production  of  Titian,  in  the  Pitti  Pa- 
lace, as  a  standard,  the  striking  contrast  between  the  two  celebrated 
artists  is  infinitely  in  favour  of  the  former.  The  latter  has  two  Venus- 
es  in  the  Tribune.  Both  are  gross  in  person,  attitude,  and  expression. 
If  his  pencil  was  true  to  nature,  he  must  have  been  acquainted  with  a 
very  different  class  of  females  from  some  of  his  competitors.  One  of 
his  recumbent  and  voluptuous  goddesses  has  been  called  the  rival  of  the 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  12"} 

Venus  de'Mcdicis  ;  but  there  is  just  as  much  difference  between  the 
two,  as  between  a  personification  of  love  and  lust. 

Michael  Angelo's  most  celebrated  easel  painting  is  in  the  Tribune. 
It  is  a  small  picture  of  the  holy  family — the  Virgin  mother  upon  her 
knees  presenting  her  child  to  Joseph.  I  endeavoured  to  admire  it  for 
the  sake  of  the  man,  but  could  not,  however  perfect  it  may  bo.  The 
drawing  is  said  to  be  very  exact,  but  his  manner  appeared  to  me  dry, 
still",  and  formal.  Leonardo  da  Vinci's  genius  is  here  admirably  repre- 
sented by  his  picture  of  Ilerodias'  daughter  receiving  the  head  of  John 
the  Baptist  from  the  executioner.  The  expression  of  the  latter  is  in- 
describably powerful.  If  there  is  any  defect  in  the  piece,  it  is  the  smirk- 
ing indifference  of  face,  with  which  the  daughter  accepts  such  a  pre- 
sent. It  is  unnatural  for  any  female  to  appear  thus  light-hearted  at 
such  a  moment. 

Guercino's  two  productions,  the  sleeping  Endymion  and  the  Sa- 
mian  Sibyl  are  both  fine.  In  the  character  of  the  latter  personage,  I 
was  much  disappointed.  With  the  exception  of  a  slight  degree  of 
wildness  in  her  eye,  her  portrait  resembles  that  of  a  handsome,  well 
dressed  lady.  The  ancient  poets  certainly  represented  these  pro- 
phetesses, as  a  sort  of  weird  sisters,  as  every  tyro  knows  who  has  read 
Virgil.  Corrcgio  has  four  pictures  in  the  Tribune — two  holy  families 
— the  head  of  St.  John  in  a  charger — and  the  head  of  a  colossal  child. 
Both  of  the  latter  are  vigorous  efforts  of  his  genius.  His  productions 
are  rare,  and  highly  prized  by  the  Italians. 

Guido's  pencil  is  represented  by  the  Virgin  in  contemplation  ;  and 
Annibal  Caracci  has  a  Bachante,  with  a  group  about  her,  conceived 
in  all  the  poetry  of  his  imagination,  and  executed  in  his  best  style. 
There  is  here  one  prominent  and  revolting  picture — the  Murder  of 
the  Innocents.  It  is  a  shocking  piece  of  butchery — mothers  wild 
with  despair,  and  clasping  their  mangled  babes  to  their  bosoms.  The 
Grand  Duke  Leopold  did  not  manifest  much  taste  in  adding  it  as  a 
present  to  such  a  collection.  A  North  American  Indian  taking  a 
scalp  would  furnish  just  as  fit  a  subject  for  tiie  pencil.  J 

In  tlie  far-famed  group  of  Niobe  and  her  children,  in  another  part 
of  the  gallery,  I  was  disappointed.  To  me  the  arrangement  appeared 
horrible,  calculated  to  destroy  entirely  the  picture  of  family  grief. 
The  statues  are  scattered  over  a  large  saloon — twice  the  size  of  the 
Tribune — filled  with  many  intruders  upon  tiic  pathetic  woes  of  the 
mother.  She,  with  her  youngest  child  clinging  to  her  side  and  nest- 
ling under  the  drapery,  is  tolerably  conspicuous  and  the  very  image  of 
grief;  but  the  visitant  absolutely  requires  a  cicerone  to  inform  him 
which  are  Niobe's  children,  and  pick  them  out  from  a  gang  of  foreign 


1-26  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

personages,  who  have  nothing  to  do  with  the  story.  There  is  gene- 
rally so  little  defect  in  the  arrangement  of  the  articles,  that  this  palpa- 
ble instance  of  a  want  of  taste  only  becomes  the  more  striking. 

Among  the  ten  thousand  other  rare  works  in  the  Gallery,  are  the 
celebrated  marble  statue  of  Bacchus,  by  Michael  Angelo,  and  a  Mer- 
cury in  bronze,  by  John  di  Bologna.  The  former  is  one  of  the  great- 
est efforts  of  the  mighty  master  ;  and  the  latter  has  a  form  light,  airy, 
and  symmetrical  beyond  description.  He  is  in  the  attitude  of  mount- 
ing upon  a  zephyr  blown  from  the  lips  of  yEolus,  and  one  such  breath, 
all  gossamer  as  it  is,  would  apparently  sustain  a  dozen  such  aerial  be- 
ings. The  idea  is  entirely  original,  and  this  statue  alone  is  sufficient 
to  immortalize  the  author. 

I  visited  all  the  apartments  once,  and  some  of  them  over  and  over 
again  ;  but  time  would  fail  me  were  I  to  retrace  the  long  rounds,  even 
if  my  readers  did  not  recoil  from  such  a  circuit.  A  very  small  pro- 
portion only  of  the  first  rate  pictures  have  been  mentioned  ;  and  the 
second  portrait,  in  my  opinion,  in  the  Gallery — the  Magdalen  of  Carlo 
Dolce — has  not  been  named  at  all.  The  compartment  containing 
the  portraits  of  celebrated  painters,  and  the  rooms  appropriated  to  the 
Tuscan  school  are  full  of  interest.  So  indeed  are  the  long  corridors 
filled  with  statues  ;  the  rich  collection  of  bronzes  ;  and  that  most  re- 
splendent and  fantastic  of  all  museums,  the  cabinet  of  gems. 

The  Gallery  is  constantly  thronged  with  visitants  of  both  sexes  from 
every  part  of  the  world,  who  here  assemble  as  at  a  great  Exchange  of 
the  Fine  Arts.  Numerous  artists,  both  male  and  female,  are  con- 
stantly busy  in  makmg  copies  of  the  more  celebrated  pictures,  gene- 
rally in  miniature,  which  are  for  sale  in  the  shops  of  Florence.  Every 
facility  is  afforded  them  for  working  in  the  gallery.  A  pretty  English 
girl  was  attempting  to  imitate  the  inimitable  face  of  La  Fornarina ; 
and  one  or  two  other  female  painters  had  planted  their  easels  before 
the  Magdalen  of  Carlo  Dolce.  Morghen,  the  most  celebrated  en- 
graver probably  in  the  world,  has  multiplied  prints  of  the  principal 
works  of  art  in  the  Gallery  to  an  illimitable  extent.  We  visited  his 
immense  establishment,  which  has  become  a  mart  for  all  nations. 

During  our  stay  at  Florence,  one  morning  was  occupied  in  a  delight- 
ful excursion  on  horseback  to  Fiesole,  three  or  four  miles  from  town, 
in  a  northerly  direction.  We  left  before  .sunrise,  by  the  avenue  lead- 
ing through  the  Porta  Pinta,  and  after  climbing  constantly  through 
the  splendid  environs,  reached  the  brow  of  the  Apennines,  on  which 
the  old  town  is  perched,  at  7  o'clock.  The  day  was  fine,  and  the 
view  into  the  vale  below,  reaching  far  towards  Pisa,  and  embracing 


LKTTEKS  FK03I  EUROPE.         127 

Florence  with   its  dusky  battlements,   wag   truly  magnificent,   alone 
worth  the  labour  of  the  arduous  ascent. 

On  the  very  summit  of  the  hill  stands  a  convent,  with  a  pretty  grove 
of  evergreens  in  front,  and  enjoying  unbroken  retirement,  save  the 
occasional  visits  of  such  intruders  as  ourselves.  It  was  once  cele- 
brated for  its  learned  inmates  ;  and  it  is  said  tlie  Medici  used  here 
to  find  a  modern  Tusculum.*  But  the  cloisters  are  now  silent,  and 
the  inmates  few.  Within  a  short  distance  stands  a  small  neat  church, 
on  the  site  of  an  ancient  temple  to  Bacchus.  The  nave  is  separated 
from  the  aisles  by  ^eighteen  beautiful  Ionic  pillars,  which  belonged  to 
the  fane  of  the  lieathen  god. 

The  cathedral,  (for  Fiesole  has  its  cathedral,)  is  in  rather  a  shat- 
tered condition,  and  contains  few  objects  worthy  of  notice.  It  was 
ornamented  with  red  banners  and  other  ornaments  preparatory  to  a 
festa.  The  tall  square  tower  is  conspicuous  even  from  the  banks  of 
the  Arno.  A  few  sepulchral  monuments  wore  found  in  the  gloomy 
aisles  ;  and  among  the  rest,  one  to  commemorate  a  learned  peasant. 
A  classical  Latin  epitaph  records  the  distinction  and  eminence  to 
which  he  attained. 

Old  Fa^sulae  has  almost  vanished,  and  the  little  that  is  left  is  fast 
wasting  away.  Fivon  the  second  city  on  the  same  site  exhibits  but  a 
vestige  of  its  former  splendour.  We  found  a  section  of  the  ancient 
walls,  planted  by  a  Greek  colony  long  anterior  to  Rome  and  Florence. 
To  the  former,  Fajsula)  gave  arts,  and  to  the  latter  population.  The 
remnants  of  the  ramparts  are  massive,  ten  or  fifteen  feet  in  height, 
and  composed  of  large  blocks  of  stone  laid  without  cement.  One  of 
tiie  gates  is  nearly  entire.     A  peasant  was  ploughing  in  the  midst  of 


*  The  poet  Milton  here  resided  for  some  lime,  and  did  not  forget  the  secluded 
retreat  of  science  and  learned  ease  in  his  immortal  work,  for  the  first  idea  of 
which  he  was  perhaps  indebted  to  the  Divina  Comedia  of  Dante,  to  which  the 
plan  of  Paradise  Lost  in  some  points  bears  a  striking  resemblance.  However 
this  may  be,  one  of  his  grandest  images  is  associated  with  this  seat  of  the  Tus- 
can Muses : 

"  He  scarce  had  ceased,  when  the  superior  Fiend 
Was  moving  towards  the  shore;  his  ponderous  shield, 
Etherial  temper,  massy,  large,  and  round, 
Behind  him  cast ;  the  broad  circumference 
Hung  on  his  shoulders,  like  the  moon,  whose  orb 
Through  optic  glass  the  Tuscan  artist  views 
At  evening,  from  llie  top  of  Fesolc, 
Or  ia  Valdarno,  to  descry  new  lands, 
Rivers,  or  mountains,  on  her  spotty  globe.'' 


12S        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

the  very  ruins.  He  stopped  his  team  of  oxen,  (snowy  as  ever  wore 
the  garland  and  went  to  the  altar  of  a  heathen  god,)  and  conducted 
us  to  the  ruins  of  an  amphitheatre  in  the  same  field.  A  mere  frag- 
ment of  it  is  left.  One  of  the  steps  at  the  entrance  is  visible,  and 
feet  which  are  now  dust  have  worn  it  nearly  through.  The  part  left 
seems  to  be  the  segment  of  a  large  structure,  whence  the  size  of  the 
town  may  be  inferred.  It  is  certain  that  the  first  dramatic  corps  went 
hence  to  Rome. 

Near  the  theatre  were  the  ancient  baths,  into  some  of  the  arches  of 
which,  now  choked  with  rubbish,  we  descended  with  the  ploughman 
for  our  guide.  Within  a  few  paces,  the  foundations  of  a  palace  peep 
through  the  coat  of  verdure.  The  peasant  stooped  down  and  tore 
away  the  rank  weeds,  which  concealed  the  wreck  of  former  magnifi- 
cence. A  lizard  started  fi-om  his  covert,  and  shot  a  glance  of  his  keen 
eye  at  intruders  upon  what  are  now  his  undisputed  dominions.  What 
a  picture  was  here  of  a  city,  which  was  the  cradle  of  Florence,  and 
gave  civilization  and  refinement  to  Rome  !  It  is  said  an  earthquake 
commenced  the  work  of  destruction,  and  rival  states  completed  it. 
Even  the  daughter  (Florence,)  instead  of  paying  the  tribute  of  re- 
spect to  venerable  and  declining  age,  turned  her  parricidal  arms 
against  the  parent  that  gave  her  being,  and  imposed  the  same  chains 
which  ruined  Pisa. 

Our  visit  to  this  remnant  of  a  city  was  full  of  interest.  We  walked 
nearly  the  whole  way  back,  often  pausing  to  contemplate  the  glories  of 
the  vale  spreading  beneath  us,  and  to  examine  the  villas,  whither  the 
Medici,  in  the  golden  age  of  the  republic  were  wont  to  retreat,  to  de- 
vise new  measures  for  promoting  the  freedom,  prosperity,  and  great- 
ness of  their  country.  The  Tuscan  Muses  followed  them  into  their 
classic  shades,  and  the  gratulations  of  thousands  welcomed  their  re- 
turn. What  an  era  was  that  for  national  renown,  and  how  has  it  va- 
nished under  titled  dukes !  Our  associations  were  in  a  moment  dis- 
solved by  the  proud  pile  of  marble,  which  rises  above  the  gate  of  St. 
Gallo,  inscribed  to  Ferdinand  III.  and  surmounted  by  the  double-head- 
ed Eagle  of  Austria.  The  four  captives  in  chains,  which  recline  on 
the  entablature  of  twelve  rich  Corinthian  columns,  and  which  hide 
the  figures  of  Fame  and  History,  are  but  too  true  an  emblem  of  the 
degradation  of  this  once  glorious  Republic. 

On  the  18th,  I  made  a  solitary  excursion  to  Vallombrosa,  my  friends 
preferring  the  charms  of  the  Gallery  to  the  Paradise  of  Milton.  For 
the  first  thirteen  miles  the  road  leads  up  the  Vale  of  the  Arno,  and  is 
bordered  by  fields  luxuriant  in  foliage,  producing  corn,  olives,  and 
Avine.     The  air  M'as  fragrant  with  the  odours  of  the  sweet-scented 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  U\i 

bean,  wlncli  is  extensively  cultivated,  and  was  in  lull  blossom.  Its 
ilower  is  as  grateful  as  the  product  itself. 

Viro-il  was  iny  sole  companion,  and  the  attractions  of  the  country 
left  ine  time  to  read  only  a  few  of  his  Eclogues.  I  had  the  text  and 
comment  both  before  me  ;  for  at  least  a  dozen  shepherds  and  shep- 
herdesses were  observed  during  my  excursion.  They  were  tending 
their  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats  by  the  way-side  ;  and  while  the  latter 
quietly  browsed  the  herbage,  the  former  employed  their  time  in  spin- 
ning, or  other  labour.  But  it  is  dilHcult  to  trace  any  of  the  poet's 
dramatis  personce  in  these  ragged  and  dirty  rustics,  who  are  generally 
of  the  lower  classes  of  peasantry. 

Thirteen  miles  from  Florence,  I  was  obliged  to  leave  the  carriage 
and  mount  a  donkey  for  the  remaining  five  miles,  over  a  mountainous 
and  rugged  path.  Some  part  of  the  way  was  so  steep  as  to  compel  me  to 
walk.  In  one  instance  the  by-path  actually  leads  through  the  porch  of 
an  old  chateau,  and  my  donkey  found  himself  unexpectedly  among 
Grecian  pillars.  A  fountain  in  the  court  bears  the  following  curious 
inscription  : — "  Potabunt  onagri  m  siti  sua'" — the  wild  asses  shall 
drink  in  their  thirst.  My  pony  understood  enough  of  Latin  to  take 
the  hint,  and  ran  his  nose  into  the  trough  without  ceremony. 

Soon  after  passing  this  villa,  the  path  leads  along  the  bank  of  a  lit- 
tle stream,  which  hurries  down  from  the  Apennines  to  the  Arno,  fdling 
the  solitary  vale  with  its  murmurs.  It  is  crossed  by  a  rustic  bridge, 
and  the  traveller  soon  finds  himself  climbing  a  ridge  of  mountains 
clad  with  forests  of  chestnut  and  oak.  At  short  intervals  on  the  way, 
crosses  and  little  shrines  to  the  Virgin  have  been  erected  by  the  Monks. 
One  of  the  former  was  observed  bearing  the  motto  of  Constantino — 
''  in  hoc  signo  vince" — and  another  bore  the  profane  alliteration — 
"  Lux  lucet  in  lucis."  A  person  might  trace  his  way  through  the 
woods  by  means  of  these  pious  beacons. 

The  approach  to  Vallombrosa  bears  but  a  faint  resemblance  to  the 
gates  of  a  Paradise.  A  curtain  of  mountain  fir  forms  the  vestibule. 
The  grove  is  artificial,  which  detracts  much  from  its  beauty.  It  is, 
however,  thick,  dark,  and  umbrageous,  forming  rather  a  pretty  screen 
to  hide  the  convent  from  the  rest  of  the  world.  But  the  smooth  lawn 
beyond  is  clearly  most  unromantic.  Some  dozen  dependants  on  the 
Monks  were  cutting  and  burning  the  green  turf  in  the  field,  for  the 
purpose  of  raising  a  crop  of  potatoes,  and  the  whole  premises  were 
enveloped  in  smoke. 

On  my  arrival  at  the  door  of  the  Convent,  one  of  the  brotherhood, 
clad  in  his  surplice  and  black  cap,  received  me  with  great  cordiality, 
and  bade  me  welcome  to  the  secluded  and  hospitable  retreat.  He  con- 

voL.  n.  17 


130        LETTEKS  FROM  EUROPE. 

ducted  me  to  a  neat  and  comfortable  suite  of  apartments,  consisting  of 
dining-rooms  and  bed  chambers,  appropriated  to  the  use  of  strangers, 
for  whose  wants  it  is  liis  pecuhar  duty  for  tlie  time  being  to  provide, 
From  his  office  he  bears  the  title  of  Forcstiero,  and  he  seemed  resol- 
ved to  render  his  honourable  station,  as  a  dispenser  of  the  rites  of  hos- 
pitality, by  no  means  a  sinecure.  His  first  order  was  to  kindle  a  fire 
in  the  saloon,  as  the  morning  was  chilly,  and  then  inquired  what  re- 
freshments he  could  ofler  from  his  humble  store. 

Havino-  settled  the  preliminaries  for  dinner,  Jie  conducted  me  over 
every  part  of  the  Convent — the  cloisters,  the  cells,  the  chapel,  the  li- 
brary, the  refectory  of  the  Monks,  and  even  the  kitchen.  It  is  an  ex- 
tensive pile  of  buildings,  three  stories  high,  standing  round  a  spacious 
court,  with  a  handsome  yard  in  front.  The  architecture  is  plain,  and 
the  complexion  of  the  edifice  a  little  darkened  by  time.  In  the  cha- 
pel are  many  respectable  pictures,  which  chiefly  attract  attention  from 
being  found  in  solitudes,  embosomed  in  the  depth  of  the  Apennines. 
The  walls  of  the  church  are  lined  with  sepulchral  monuments,  where 
sleeps  the  monastic  dust  of  eight  centuries.  Much  classical  learning 
and  some  taste  are  displayed  in  the  epitaphs. 
(^  The  refectory  resembles  the  dining-halls  in  the  English  universities. 

A  table  was  spread  for  dinner,  to  accommodate  perhaps  twenty  per- 
sons, the  present  number  of  the  fraternity.  The  board  was  crowned 
by  a  decanter  of  red  wine  to  each  plate,  and  every  thing  bore  the  marks 
of  neatness  and  good  cheer.  No  peculiar  austerities  are  in  fact  en- 
joined upon  the  brotherhood,  who  live  in  much  the  same  style  as  Fel- 
lows of  a  College.  The  Forestiero  took  me  to  his  own  private  apart- 
Rient,  which  was  furnished  with  a  bed,  a  few  chairs,  a  table  covered 
with  books  and  a  crucifix.     Any  student  might  here  be  comfortable. 

The  library  is  but  a  shadow  of  what  it  once  was — a  remark  indeed, 
which  may  be  extended  to  the  whole  establishment.  During  the  late 
revolution,  the  convent  was  suppressed  by  the  French,  its  property 
confiscated,  and  most  of  the  books  dispersed.  The  shelves  are  still 
half  vacant,  though  they  bear  the  labels  of  the  several  compart- 
ments, into  which  the  library  is  judiciously  divided.  There  are  at  pre- 
sent not  more  than  two  or  three  thousand  volumes.  I  took  down  a 
copy  of  Milton's  works  from  tlie  shelf,  and  found  two  papers  inserted 
at  the  passages  relating  to  this  classical  retreat.  The  first  is  one  of 
the  poet's  grandest  similes  : 

"  Thick  as  autumnal  leaves  that  strew  the  brooks 
In  Vallombrosu,  where  the  Etrurian  shades, 
O'erarching  high,  p,mbower." 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         131 

The  second  passage  is  the  celebrated  description  of  the  Garden  of 
Eden,  the  oriffinal  of  which  travellers  have  pretended  to  discover  in 
the  woody  declivities  of  the  Apennines,  overhanging  the  retired  glen 
of  Vallombrosa.  There  is  a  little  hermitage  actually  called  Paradise^ 
consisting  of  a  solitary  one-story  building,  seated  upon  a  high  point  of 
rock,  and  shaded  on  one  side  by  evergreens.  Tiic  brook,  alluded  to 
by  Milton,  dashes  down  I'roni  the  cloudy  and  still  snowy  tops  of  the 
mountains,  forming  numerous  pretty  cascades,  and  filling  the  deep  soli- 
tudes with  its  murmurs.  A  bridge,  more  like  that  leading  into  a  Ma- 
hometan than  a  Christian  Paradise,  formed  l)y  a  solitary  plank  thrown 
across  the  current,  conducts  the  traveller  lo  the  Hermitage. 

Notwithstanding  all  that  has  been  said  by  Eustace  and  others,  there 
is  nothing  peculiarly  romantic  in  the  character  of  the  scenery  at  Val- 
lombrosa, and  I  looked  in  vain  for  tlie  original  of  Eden.  Milton 
might  have  found  a  thousand  scenes  in  his  own  country,  every  way 
superior  in  picturesque  beauty.  Tiie  forests  of  fir  have  all  been 
planted  by  the  Monks,  who  renew  them  about  as  often  as  the  gene- 
rations of  men,  cutting  down  one  growth  for  timber  and  fuel,  and 
substituting  another.  Art  has  therefore  in  a  great  measure  broken  in 
upon  the  solitudes  of  nature.  My  visit  was  perhaps  too  early  in  the 
season,  to  see  the  place  to  the  best  advantage. 

The  associations  arc  principally  such  as  superstition  has  imparted. 
In  the  Hermitage  are  prints  of  all  those,  who  have  been  its  inmates, 
since  itf  foundation  in  the  tenth  century.  It  admits  of  but  one  at  a 
time,  who  holds  for  life.  The  present  possessor  seemed  to  have  little 
of  the  anchorite  in  his  character,  and  familiarly  acted  as  a  cicerone 
in  showing  me  his  tiny  chapel,  and  other  curiosities  in  his  retirement. 
From  the  point  of  the  rock  in  front,  the  spectator  has  a  glorious  peep 
at  the  world,  extending  into  the  sunny  vale  of  the  Arno,  to  Florence, 
and  even  to  the  dim  expanse  of  the  Mediterranean.  While  the  prospect 
in  this  direction  was  all  bright  with  summer  skies,  the  winds  of  winter 
were  still  whistling  above  my  head,  round  the  bleak  summits  of  the 
Apennines. 

In  descending  from  the  Hermitage  by  a  path  winding  under  the 
clifis,  the  guide  pointed  out  a  cavern  in  the  rock,  of  the  size  of  a  coflln, 
grated  in  front.  Here  a  saint  buried  himself  for  several  years,  en- 
during cold,  hunger,  and  every  species  of  mortification.  A  little  shrine 
has  been  erected  near  the  spot,  to  commemorate  his  virtues ;  and  the 
Latin  inscription  states,  that  at  his  death  celestial  lights  gleamed 
round  the  rocks,  and  the  bells  of  the  convent  tolled  without  hands. 
Another  chapel  rises  in  memory  of  a  Monk,  who  was  tempted  by  the 
devil  to  leap  from  the  cliflT,  when  the  Virgin  interfered,  and  rescue* 


l:J-2  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

him  from  peril.  One  of  his  brethren  was  less  fortunate  ;  for  in  walk- 
ing along  the  giddy  height  at  evening,  he  made  a  misstep,  and  was 
dashed  to  pieces  in  tumbhng  down  the  precipice. 

But  the  most  curious  of  all  these  shrines  is  one  in  commemoration 
of  an  event  in  the  life  of  the  founder  of  the  convent.  While  he  was 
engaged  in  prayer  among  these  solitary  hills,  he  was  assaulted  by  the 
devil.  The  former  took  to  his  heels,  as  the  best  mode  of  escape,  and 
the  latter  gave  chase.  At  length  they  arrived  at  a  precipice,  under 
which  the  saint  sheltered  himself,  while  the  devil  unable  to  check  the 
momentum  he  had  acquired  dashed  down  headlong !  The  cliff  all 
at  once  became  so  soft  as  to  receive  the  impression  of  the  saint, 
which  is  still  shown  to  the  traveller.  A  long  Latin  inscription  re- 
cords the  miracle.  In  the  midst  of  these  legends  I  ought  not  to  for- 
get the  name  of  lather  Hugford,  an  English  Hermit  of  great  sanc- 
tity, who  rose  to  the  rank  of  Abbe,  and  who  presents  a  still  stronger 
claim  to  remembrance,  by  the  invention  of  inlaying  marbles  with  pre- 
cious stones. 

On  my  return  to  the  Convent,  I  found  dinner  in  waiting.  The  fare 
was  simple,  but  served  up  with  neatness.  All  this  hospitality  is  a  gra- 
tuity ;  but  the  visitant  is  at  liberty,  if  he  chooses,  to  present  a  trifle 
for  the  maintenance  of  the  establishment.  A  quarto  volume,  con- 
taining the  memoirs  of  the  founder  of  the  Convetjt,  was  laid  upon  the 
table  for  my  amusement ;  as  also  an  album  comprising  the  names  of 
all  the  visitants  to  these  shades.  Adding  my  own  to  the  long  list, 
and  shaking  the  Forestiero  by  the  hand,  I  bade  adieu  to  Vallombrosa, 
and  returned  to  Florence  the  same  evening. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  lyji 

LETTER  LV. 

DEPARTURE  FOR  ROME INCISA ARE7.ZO — BIRTH-PLACE  OF  PETRARCH 

VALE  OF  CHIANA LAKE  THRASVMEXrs SCE>"E  OF  THE   BATTLE  BE- 
TWEEN   FLAMINirS    AND    HANNIBAL PERUGIA FIRST  VIEW  OF  THE 

TIBER VALE  AND  FOUNTAIN  OF  THE  CLITUMNCS SPOLETO TERNI. 

April,  1826. 

From  Florence  to  Rome,  a  distance  of  about  two  hundred  miles, 
experiment  was  made  of  a  new  mode  of  travelling.  A  desire  to 
reach  the  South  of  Italy  before  tlie  commencement  of  warm  weather, 
and  to  continue  in  the  agreeable  company  of  our  New-York  friends, 
induced  us  to  try  the  mettle  of  post-horses,  instead  of  the  tardy  teams 
of  the  vetturino.  The  change  was  much  for  the  worse  in  all  respects 
except  speed  ;  and  in  that  article  the  loss  is  greater  than  the  gain  to 
the  tourist,  who  travels  for  information.  He  is  hurried  through  land- 
scapes however  beautiful,  and  by  objects  however  interesting,  without 
the  power  to  pause  a  moment  for  contemplation,  as  the  postillions  arc 
anxious  to  accomplish  the  journey  in  the  least  time  possible,  often  at 
the  imminent  risk  of  broken  necks  or  limbs.  Down  hill  they  always 
make  it  a  point  to  drive  upon  the  run,  to  make  up  for  their  snail  paces 
in  the  ascents.  The  horses  are  uniformly  bad,  and  the  harness,  often 
consisting  of  slender  ropes,  is  horrible. 

Although  the  rates  of  posting  in  all  the  Italian  states  is  regulated 
by  law,  impositions  are  in  one  way  or  another  practised  upon  the  tra- 
veller, in  spite  of  his  utmost  vigilance.  The  most  general  mode  of 
exacting  exorbitant  fees,  is  by  putting  on  a  stronger  team  than  the 
carriage  requires.  Remonstrances  in  such  cases  are  entirely  useless, 
and  the  only  alternative  is  patient  submission,  under  the  authority  of 
the  maxim,  that  "  when  you  are  among  the  Romans,  you  must  do  as 
the  Romans  do."  Our  two  friends  who  arc  in  person  both  light  men, 
and  were  encumbered  with  but  little  baggage,  frequently  presented 
the  ludicrous  picture  of  being  dragged  up  the  hills  by  six  horses  and 
four  oxen,  strung  out  at  such  lengths,  and  moving  at  such  a  solemn 
pace,  as  to  appear  like  a  funeral  procession.  As  our  coach  was  of  a 
different  kind,  we  were  never  compelled  to  take  more  than  four  horses 
and  one  pair  of  oxen.  But  manage  as  you  will,  the  expense  of  post- 
ing is  more  than  treble  that  of  travelling  with  a  vetturino  ;  and  he  that 
makes  the  experiment  will  soon  repent  of  his  bargain.  With  many 
of  the  English,  who  make  the  tour  of  Italy  merely  for  the  sake  of 
riding  and  spending  money,  the  case  is  different.     They  often  bring 


134        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

with  them  the  principles  of  their  jockey  clubs,  and  boast  of  perform- 
ing such  and  such  routes,  in  so  many  hours. 

At  7  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  20th,  our  three-horse  coach,  (a 
sort  of  triangular  team,)  drove  up  with  a  flourish  of  whips,  and  the 
postillion  in  livery  as  the  law  directs,  to  the  door  of  Mynheer  Schnei- 
der's Hotel,  and  we  set  out  for  "  the  City  of  the  Seven  Hills,"  our 
friends  leading  the  way  as  pioneers.  Within  the  first  hour  after  lea- 
ving Florence,  our  coach  was  turned  bottom  upwards  against  the 
fence,  without  injury  to  us,  having  descended  a  few  minutes  before 
the  accident,  to  walk  up  a  hill.  The  persons  left  in  charge  of  it  con- 
cealed as  many  of  the  particulars,  as  the  fractured  axle  would  permit. 
In  general,  the  road  though  hilly  is  smooth  and  excellent ;  and  nothing 
but  this  circumstance  saves  the  necks  of  hundreds.  Two  of  our 
acquaintances,  whom  we  met  at  Florence  on  their  return  from  Rome, 
had  been  capsized  on  this  same  route,  and  one  of  them  severely  brui- 
sed. Coachmen  are  often  killed  by  their  own  carelessness,  and  dis- 
posed of  with  as  little  ceremony,  as  soldiers  are  carried  from  the  field 
of  battle. 

For  the  first  ten  or  twelve  miles,  the  country  was  not  new  to  me, 
having  been  already  traversed  in  my  excursion  to  Vallombrosa.  My 
companions  satisfied  their  curiosity  with  a  glance  at  the  forests  of  fir, 
which  mantle  the  heights  of  the  Apennines,  and  overhang  that  seclu- 
ded retreat,  at  the  distance  of  four  or  five  miles  on  the  left  of  the  road. 
At  Incisa,  two  posts  from  Florence,  we  crossed  the  Arno,  which  here 
preserves  the  character  of  a  torrent.  This  little  village  excited  a  degree 
of  interest,  from  having  once  been  the  residence  of  Petrarch's  mother, 
while  he  was  an  infant.  It  now  consists  of  a  cluster  of  mean  houses, 
extending  along  the  bank  of  the  river.  The  other  villages,  though 
sometimes  large,  are  generally  mean  in  appearance,  and  unworthy  of 
the  splendid  scenery  which  surrounds  them. 

What  is  called  the  Superior  or  Upper  Vale  of  the  Arno,  extends 
from  Florence  onward  towards  Rome.  Though  it  does  not  differ 
essentially  in  character  from  that  portion  denominated  the  Inferior,  in 
the  direction  of  Pisa,  and  already  described,  if  possible  it  surpasses 
the  latter  in  fertility  of  soil  and  exactness  of  tillage.  The  products 
are  the  same,  and  the  distant  landscape,  always  embracing  peaks  in 
the  eternal  chain  of  the  Apennines,  is  often  superlatively  rich  and  beau- 
tiful. This  portion  of  Italy  has  been  celebrated  for  its  exuberance  by 
all  writers  from  the  age  of  Livy  to  the  present  time.  Its  cattle  are 
the  finest  I  have  seen  on  the  continent.  They  are  commonly  of  a 
dove  colour,  both  large  and  fat,  the  oxen  having  their  heads  set  off 
with  scarlet  fillets  and  tassels,  with  as  much  taste  as  a  peasant  girl  at 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         135 

a  gala.  The  country  is  extremely  populous,  and  the  inhabitants  ap- 
pear to  be  industrious  in  the  cultivation  of  their  few  acres,  appropria- 
ted as  usual  to  grain,  the  olive,  and  vine. 

After  crossing  a  beautiful  sunny  plain,  embosomed  among  the  moun- 
tains, we  reached  Arezzo  at  5  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  took  lodg- 
ings for  the  night  at  the  Post  House.  While  dinner  was  preparing, 
an  hour  was  occupied  in  looking  at  the  town,  which  is  charmingly 
situated  in  the  midst  of  a  smiling  country,  and  contains  a  population 
of  about  10,000.  It  has  seen  better  days,  and  some  of  the  streets 
exhibit  an  air  of  former  magnificence,  being  remarkably  well  paved, 
spacious,  and  lined  with  stately  edifices.  The  Cathedral  is  a  vast 
building,  standing  upon  an  eminence,  with  a  showy  exterior.  Among 
the  usual  share  of  ornaments  in  the  interior,  is  a  splendid  painting  of 
Judith  presenting  the  head  of  Holofernes  to  the  people.  The  most 
has  been  made  of  a  bad  subject,  and  the  picture  possesses  so  much 
merit,  that  Morghen  has  hence  drawn  one  of  his  best  prints.  In  one 
of  the  aisles  is  a  marble  tomb  of  an  Archbishop,  furnishing  a  curious 
specimen  of  antique  sculpture.  Before  the  church  spreads  an  exten- 
sive promenade,  planted  with  trees,  and  ornamented  with  a  lofty 
column  of  granite  rising  in  the  centre. 

One  of  the  first  objects  which  the  traveller  inquires  for  on  entering 
Arezzo,  is  the  birth-place  of  Petrarch.  Our  curiosity  was  greatly 
augmented  by  having  visited  his  secluded  residence  in  the  vale  of 
Vaucluse.  But  what  was  our  disappointment,  on  being  conducted  to 
the  street,  to  find  that  the  old  house,  in  which  he  was  born  in  1304, 
had  been  demolished  about  eight  years  since,  and  a  new  one  erected 
on  its  site.  Such  a  revolution  has  dissolved  the  charm  of  association, 
and  the  traveller  scarcely  pauses  long  enough  before  the  fresh  stucco 
walls,  to  read  a  Latin  inscription  of  great  length,  posted  up  like  the 
rates  of  a  toll-gate  in  front  of  the  house.  The  early  life  of  Petrarch 
seems  to  have  given  rise  to  several  legendary  and  fabulous  tales,  thougli 
it  was  sufllciently  romantic  without  any  of  these  incredible  stories. 
He  was  emphatically  the  child  of  misfortune.  At  the  time  of  his 
birth,  his  parents  were  exiles  from  their  native  Florence,  and  his  father 
was  waging  in  the  field  an  ineffectual  struggle  to  restore  the  liberties 
of  his  country.  Wliile  the  poet  was  an  infant,  his  mother  returned  to 
Incisa,  the  village  mentioned  above  ;  and  in  crossing  the  Arno,  her 
babe,  put  into  a  sack  fastened  to  the  end  of  a  pole,  and  entrusted  to  a 
peasant  whose  horse  fell  in  fording  the  river,  was  nigli  being  drowned. 
So  says  tradition.  At  the  age  of  seven,  he  and  his  parents  embarked 
at  Leghorn  for  Marseilles,  on  their  way  to  Avignon.  They  were 
wrecked  during  the  voyage,  and  the  infant  bard  again  narrowly  escar 


I3G        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

ped.  These  moving  accidents  of  his  childhood  were  in  consonance 
with  the  misfortunes  of  his  riper  years,  and  perhaps  have  been  invented 
to  harmonize  with  the  story  of  his  woes. 

Arezzo  (the  old  Arretium,)  was  anciently  a  town  of  great  import- 
ance, and  here  the  Consul  Flaminius  had  his  head  quarters,  previous 
to  the  fatal  battle  with  Hannibal  on  the  shores  of  lake  Thrasymenus. 
Some  vestiges  of  its  antiquities  still  remain.  We  visited  the  ruins  of 
the  Amphitheatre,  situated  near  the  Roman  Gate.  Its  construction 
almost  exactly  resembles  that  of  Frejus,  in  the  south  of  France,  less 
spacious  as  well  as  less  perfect  than  the  one  at  Nismes.  A  few  of  the 
arches  are  yet  entire  ;  but  the  walls  are  overgrown  with  shrubbery, 
and  the  arena  covered  with  rank  grass.  In  musing  over  these  wrecks 
of  other  ages,  the  mind  involuntarily  reverts  to  vanished  scenes,  when 
the  benches  were  crowded  with  circles  of  Roman  beauty,  and  the 
pulse  of  thousands  beat  high  with  enjoyment. 

Early  the  next  morning  we  left  Arezzo,  and  pursued  our  journey 
through  the  vale  of  Chiana,  sixteen  miles  in  extent,  across  which  the 
eye  stretches,  charmed  with  the  richness  of  the  landscape,  and  rests 
on  the  picturesque  village  of  Chiusi,  seated  on  the  top  of  a  round  in- 
sulated hill  several  hundred  feet  above  the  surrounding  plain.  This 
town,  anciently  called  Clusium,  was  the  castellated  kingdom  of  old 
Porsenna,  whose  arms  carried  terror  to  the  gates  of  Rome.  The 
ramparts  and  towers  of  Cortona,  once  the  capital  of  Etruria,  but  now 
wasted  away  into  comparative  insignificance,  crown  the  heights  on 
the  left  of  the  road,  and  overlook  the  whole  of  the  beautiful  valley 
blooming  below.  It  is  said  the  Cathedral  in  this  town  contains  an 
ancient  tomb,  which  is  supposed  to  have  been  erected  in  memory  of 
the  Consul  Flaminius,  whose  death  gave  eclat  to  the  victory  of  the 
Carthaginian. 

Passing  the  post  of  Camuccia,  we  reached  the  little  village  of  Os- 
saia,  on  the  frontiers  of  Tuscany,  which  pretends  to  derive  its  name 
from  the  bones  (^ossa)  of  the  ten  thousand  Romans,  who  fell  in  the 
memorable  engagement  above  referred  to,  and  here  found  a  grave. 
An  inscription  in  front  of  a  building  on  the  left  of  the  street  urges 
this  claim,  strengthened  by  fragments  of  human  bones  found  in  the 
vicinity.  But  its  authenticity  is  denied  by  antiquaries,  and  the  scene 
of  the  battle  is  uniformly  laid  several  miles  farther  on.  I  seize  this 
occasion  to  say,  that  a  note  to  the  Fourth  Canto  of  Childe  Harold 
comprises,  within  a  narrow  compass,  more  authentic  information  on 
this  subject,  than  all  the  volumes  of  modern  travellers  put  together. 
Byron's  topographical  descriptions,  aided  by  the  patient  labours  of 
"his  friend  Hobhouse,  are  more  minutely  accurate  than  any  one  would 


LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE.  137 

xpcct  ill  the  pages  of  a  poet.  His  text  of  course  often  exaggerates 
and  embellishes  ;  but  you  may  always  rely  on  his  notes,  and  if  any  of 
my  readers  wish  for  a  perfect  picture  of  one  of  the  most  renowned 
fields  in  the  whole  history  of  Rome,  they  have  only  to  turn  to  the 
passage  above  referred  to,  which  is  too  long  for  quotation,  and  too 
concise  for  abridgment. 

On  leaving  Ossaia,  we  continued  to  ascend  an  eminence  of  mode- 
rate elevation,  shaded  with  oaks  and  olives,  till  our  arrival  at  the  nar- 
row Pass  of  Borghetto,  by  which  the  Consul  and  his  army  entered  the 
semicircular  plain  upon  the  shore  of  the  lake,  at  the  dawn  of  the  ill- 
fated  day,  the  events  of  whicii  spread  dismay  through  the  streets  of 
Rome.  Idle  as  the  curiosity  may  seem,  and  remote  as  the  associa- 
tions must  be,  the  eye  loves  to  trace  even  the  ground,  upon  which  the 
Roman  legions  trampled,  as  they  advanced  with  high  hopes  and  proud 
bearing  to  meet  the  inveterate  enemy  of  tlieir  country.  None  but  a 
rash  leader  would  have  entrusted  an  army  to  such  a  field,  from  which 
there  was  no  retreat  in  case  of  discomfiture.  But  the  Roman  arms 
were  at  that  period  unaccustomed  to  reverses,  and  the  wily  African 
•was  not  looked  for  in  such  a  secluded  recess  of  the  mountains.  It  is 
not,  however,  my  business  to  balance  the  merits  of  generalship,  nor 
to  dwell  on  the  incidents  of  a  battle,  which  have  been  recorded  by  a 
thousand  pens  since  the  days  of  Livy,  from  whose  copious  and  "  pic- 
tured page"  my  classical  friend  recited  passage  after  passage,  as  the 
inspiration  of  the  ground  awakened  the  chain  of  associations,  and  -^ 
opened  the  treasures  of  memory. 

In  winding  round  the  Pass  of  Borghetto,  glimpses  of  the  blue 
•waters  ofThrasymenus  were  at  first  indistinctly  seen,  through  the  groves 
of  oak  which  fringe  the  road,  till  at  length  the  whole  lake,  cradled 
among  the  Apennines,  and  girt  by  verdant  shores,  spread  in  all  its 
brightness  full  before  us.  'The  feelings  of  the  moment  may  be  much 
more  easily  conceived  than  described.  To  the  impressions  produced 
by  the  charms  of  natural  scenery  were  added  the  recollections  of  his- 
tory, and  the  classic  dreams  of  boyhood.  If  the  lake  is  not  peculiarly 
remarkable  for  either  its  grandeur  or  beauty,  it  is  intensely  interesting ; 
and  it  is  difiicult  to  analyze  the  complex  emotions  which  the  first  view 
of  it  produced  in  my  mind.  Its  length  is  ten  miles,  and  its  breadth 
five  or  six  ;  it  is  of  an  irregular  form,  and  encircled  on  ail  sides  by 
mountainous  and  woody  borders,  which  give  it  an  air  of  deep  solitude. 
Three  small  islands  rise  boldly  from  its  bosom,  and  contribute  greatly 
to.  its  picturesque  beauty.  Its  immediate  margin  is  girt  with  a  deep 
fringe  of  reeds.  The  complexion  of  the  water  is  as  bright  as  the 
azure  of  the  skies  it  reflects. 

VOL.  ir  18 


138        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

We  had  now  entered  tlie  dominions  of  the  Pope,  and  our  trunks 
were  consigned  to  the  hands  of  a  host  of  hungry  custom-house  offi- 
cers, who  throng  the  Dogana  of  his  Ilohness,  situated  near  the  fron- 
tier, and  bearing  the  image  of  the  eagle  and  triple  crown.  In  our 
haste  to  walk  forward  to  the  battle  ground,  while  our  luggage  was  un- 
dergoing an  inspection,  the  surrender  of  keys  had  been  forgotten,  and 
a  fat  Italian  placeman,  puffing  and  panting  like  a  porpoise,  found  diffi- 
culty in  overtaking  us  at  the  xlistance  of  half  a  mile.  A  moderate  fee 
blinded  the  vigilance  of  these  papal  Arguses,  and  it  could  not  be  per- 
ceived from  a  subsequent  examination,  that  the  contents  of  our  trunks 
had  been  molested. 

The  most  desperate  and  bloody  part  of  the  contest  between  Flami- 
nius  and  Hannibal  was  fought  upon  the  banks  of  a  little  stream,  or  ra- 
ther the  channel  of  a  stream,  called  the  Sanguinetto,  which  intersects 
the  semicircular  plain  already  mentioned,  five  or  six  miles  in  length, 
along  the  shore  of  the  lake,  and  about  four  in  width.  An  unbroken 
chain  of  hills,  called  the  Gualandra,  of  moderate  elevation,  but  steep, 
and  crowned  with  several  old  fortresses,  sweeps  round  the  field,  termi- 
nating at  the  defiles  of  Borghetto  and  Passignano.  This  range  of 
mountains,  the  arena  spreading  below,  and  bordered  in  front  by  a 
splendid  sheet  of  water,  present  on  the  whole  a  glorious  amphitheatre, 
"worthy  of  the  sublime  spectacle  which  it  once  exhibited.  Traditioxi 
has  designated  the  banks  of  the  Sanguinetto,  "  which  all  the  while  ran 
blood,"  as  the  place  where  Flaminius  fell.  Here  it  was,  that  the  In- 
subrian  knight  Ducarius  recognized  the  Consul,  and  plunging  into  the 
thickest  of  the  foe,  gave  his  enemy  a  victim,  to  appease  the  manes  of 
his  plundered  and  butchered  fellow-citizens. 

But  I  must  not  dwell  on  so  old  a  story  as  Livy's  description  of  this 
battle.  His  two  chapters,  detailing  the  incidents  of  the  engagement 
and  the  scenes  of  frantic  terror  which  the  news  excited  at  Rome,  form 
ofte  of  the  finest  specimens  of  eloquence  to  be  found  in  the  whole 
compass  of  the  Latin  classics.*  From  this  fountain  Byron  has  drawn 
all  his  imagery,  and  done  little  more  than  versify  the  Roman  historian. 


*  On  the  arrival  of  the  messenger  at  Rome,  the  inhabitants  of  both  sexes 
thronged  the  Forum,  and  Marcus  Pomponius  the  Praetor  communicated  to  the  as- 
sembled multitude  the  sad  intelligence  in  few  words — '■'•  pugna  magna  victi  sumus" 
— we  have  been  conquered  in  a  great  battle.  Mothers  and  wives  and  sisters  with 
dishevelled  locks,  and  in  the  torture  of  suspense,  flew  to  the  gates  of  the  city,  and 
watched  day  and  night  for  the  return  of  their  friends.  Two  matrons  died  of  ex- 
cess of  joy  at  the  unexpected  arrival  of  their  sons ;  but  still  more  of  broken 
hearts.    What  a  subject  is  here  for  the  pencil  of  an  artist ! 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.       139 

There  seemed  to  be  a  combination  of  every  possible  circumstance  to 
heighten  the  (grandeur  of  a  conflict  between  two  such  armies — the  in- 
tervention of  an  earthquake  so  severe  as  to  prostrate  many  of  the  cities 
of  Italy — the  cloud  of  mist  from  the  Lake,  so  dense  that,  in  the  forci- 
ble language  of  Livy,  the  combatants  were  guided  rather  by  the  ear 
than  the  eve — the  shouts  of  the  onset — the  tremendous  slaughter — 
and  the  sublime  image  of  the  Roman  legions,  who  standing  upon  the 
heights  of  the  Gualandra,  heard  the  clashing  of  shields  and  the  clangor 
of  arms  far  beneath  them,  w  ithout  being  able  to  discern  the  contend- 
ing forces.  In  a  word,  the  whole  description  has  the  fascination  of 
splendid  romance. 

Near  the  bridge  of  the  Sanguinetto,  we  found  a  peasant  ploughing 
the  glorious  field.  He  stopped  his  team  and  courteously  responded  to 
our  inquiries,  pointing  to  a  place  at  some  distance  on  the  left  of  the 
road,  as  the  spot  where  the  Consul  fell.  Traditions  of  the  battle,  kept 
alive  by  the  curiosity  of  travellers,  are  still  vivid  with  the  inhabitants  of 
the  plain.  The  scene  is  all  quiet  and  rural  now.  A  fine  species  of 
red  clover,  entirely  different  from  any  I  had  before  seen,  crimsoned  the 
field  with  its  bright  blossoms.  It  is  extremely  fragrant,  and  appears  to 
be  a  favourite  flower  with  the  bee.  Here  too  the  olive  waves  its  pale 
green  foliage,  and  the  vine  was  putting  forth  its  young  tendrils.  For 
once  in  the  world,  the  delay  of  a  custom-house  was  a  favour  instead  of 
a  vexation  ;  and  our  coaches  did  not  overtake  us,  till  localities  so  full 
of  interest  had  been  satisfactorily  examined. 

We  rode  for  several  miles  along  the  immediate  margin  of  the  lake. 
At  Passignano  a  bold,  rocky  promontory,  shooting  out  from  the  Apen- 
nines, bathes  itself  in  the  waves,  leaving  but  a  narrow  defde  for  the 
path.  A  little  village  is  seated  under  the  clifls,  picturesque  in  the  ap- 
proach, but  mean,  dirty,  and  poor  on  a  closer  examination.  At  the 
village  of  Torricella,  situated  upon  the  shore,  a  few  miles  farther  on, 
we  made  a  short  pause,  and  embarked  in  a  small  boat,  partly  from  the 
idle  curiosity  of  navigating  the  waters  of  Thrasymenus,  and  partly  for 
the  sake  of  purchasing  a  lot  of  fresh  fish  for  dinner.  Several  kinds 
were  found,  and  among  the  rest  a  species  of  the  streaked  bass.  Each 
of  our  party  making  a  selection  according  to  his  own  taste,  augmented 
the  quantity  beyond  what  was  exactly  agreeable  to  be  borne  lor  many 
miles  in  our  vehicles  on  a  warm  day. 

Having  reinforced  each  of  our  teams  by  a  yoke  of  oxen,  decorated 
in  this  instance  with  snowy  garlands,  and  under  the  guidance  of  an  old 
lady  who  led  them  by  a  rope  fastened  to  their  horns,  we  commenced 
climbing  the  hill  of  Magiona  at  a  pace  so  slow,  as  to  afTord  ample  time 
to  cast  many  a  lingering  and  farewell  look  at  Tlirasymenus,  gradually 


HO         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

disappearing  behind  us.  Lady  Morgan  speaks  of  having  seen  the  lake 
from  Perugia  ;  a  thing  quite  impossible,  unless  her  vision  is  sufficiently 
cicute  to  penetrate  mountains,  which  rise  to  a  considerable  elevation, 
and  effectually  intercept  the  view.  In  descending  from  the  heights  of 
JNIagiona  into  the  pretty  vale  which  spreads  at  the  base,  an  accident 
befel  one  of  our  coaches  and  compelled  us  to  stop  an  hour  or  more  at 
a  dirty  little  village,  furnishing  neither  refreshment  nor  amusement. 
On  the  score  of  the  former  item,  a  roll  of  coarse  bread  was  all  that 
could  be  obtained  ;  and  the  fund  of  the  latter  was  still  more  scanty. 
While  the  village  Vulcan  lighted  up  the  sleepy  fires  of  his  forge,  Tity- 
rus  like,  I  stretched  myself  beneath  the  shade  of  a  tree  by  the  way-side 
and  beguiled  the  time  in  reading  Virgil,  gazing  at  the  distant  Apen- 
nines, and  studying  the  natural  history  of  the  lizard,  swarms  of  which 
gamboled  at  my  feet  : 

Nunc  virides  etiam  occultant  spineta  lacertos. 

Countless  numbers  of  this  reptile  are  seen  in  all  parts  of  Italy,  upon 
the  walls  and  about  ruins.  It  is  a  brisk  and  pert  Uttle  animal,  four  or 
five  inches  long,  of  a  greenish  colour,  with  a  quick,  keen  eye.  There 
is  a  superstition  among  the  lower  classes,  that  so  far  from  being  noxious 
in  its  habits,  the  lizard  is  a  faithful  friend  to  the  peasantry,  watching 
their  noon-day  slumbers  in  the  field,  and  giving  notice  by  tickling  the 
ear,  if  the  scorpion  or  tarantula  approaches. 

Notwithstanding  our  delay,  at  5  o'clock  we  ascended,  with  the  aid 
of  a  fresh  recruit  of  oxen,  the  lofty  eminence  on  the  very  top  of  which 
is  seated  the  ancient  city  of  Perugia,  whose  ramparts  and  towers  give 
it  a  very  imposing  appearance.  From  the  time  of  its  conquest  by  the 
Romans,  (for  it  was  founded  in  an  age  long  anterior  to  the  imperial 
city,)  it  has  at  intervals  been  a  rebellious  town — rebellious  against  ty- 
rants and  oppressors.  Hannibal  found  it  impregnable.  It  even  dared 
to  bar  its  gates  against  Augustus,  whose  intentions  of  manifesting  his 
usual  clemency  were  baffled  by  the  spirit  of  one  of  its  citizens,  who  set 
fire  to  his  own  house,  whence  the  flames  spread  till  the  whole  city  was 
reduced  to  ashes.  In  the  wars  of  the  Goths,  it  signalized  itself  by  its 
valour  and  love  of  independence  ;  and  at  the  commencement  of  the 
14th  century,  the  Perugians  under  Forte  Braccio  for  a  commander,  so 
far  from  acting  merely  on  the  defensive,  actually  conquered  Rome, 
and  kept  possession  of  the  city  for  something  more  than  a  quarter  of 
a  century. 

On  the  reduction  of  Perugia  to  the  papal  dominions.  Pope  Paul  III. 
determined  to  keep  such  factious  spirits  in  check,  and  to  secure  the 
future  servitude  of  the  citizens,  by  a  stupendous  castle  erected  under 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         I4I 

the  guise  of  a  hospital.  The  traveller  passes  this  enormous  pile  on 
Ills  left,  soon  after  entering  the  gate.  It  stands  upon  the  summit  of 
the  hill,  and  effectually  commands  the  town.  In  the  hands  of  the 
French,  it  underwent  some  repairs,  and  was  used  as  a  fortress.  At 
present  it  is  dismantled,  and  in  a  state  of  dilapidation. 

We  took  lodgings  for  the  night  in  a  hotel,  which  had  once  been  the 
palace  of  a  nobleman,  and  still  exhibits  some  remains  of  its  former 
splendour.  Ragged  tapestry  covers  the  walls,  and  gods  and  heroes 
sprawl  in  fresco  upon  the  ceiling.  In  the  entrance,  the  name  of  near- 
ly all  the  royal  personages  in  Italy  are  posted  up,  with  a  recx»rd  of  the 
important  fact,  of  precisely  on  what  day,  month  and  year,  they  lodged 
in  this  tavern.  Perchance  we  were  honoured  by  sleeping  in  the  very 
beds,  which  kings,  queens,  princes  and  princesses,  dukes  and  dutchess- 
cs,  down  to  the  humbler  ranks  of  marquises  and  counts,  had  occupied. 
Caroline,  the  late  queen  of  England,  was  among  the  number.  I  did 
not  find  Bergami's  name  in  the  list  of  counts. 

A  young  Irish  ecclesiastic,  in  his  friar's  frock  and  three-cornered 
hat,  introduced  lumself  to  us  at  the  door  of  the  iiotel,  taking  our  party 
for  Englishmen.  lie  gave  us  his  "  travels'  history"  with  a  good  deal 
of  volubility,  concluding  with  his  matriculation  in  the  large  theological 
institution  at  this  place,  whither  many  of  his  countrymen  are  sent  to 
be  educated  in  the  Roman  Catholic  religion.  He  took  occasion  to 
mention  the  strangers  of  distinction  with  whom  he  had  dined  in  our 
hotel,  and  indirectly  intimated  that  a  repetition  of  the  favour,  even 
with  plain  republicans,  would  not  be  disagreeable.  But  in  truth  he 
was  very  civil,  offering  to  show  us  the  curiosities  of  the  ecclesiastical 
estabhshments ;  but  for  want  of  time,  his  attentions  were  politely  de- 
cHncd. 

While  our  classical  fish  from  the  waters  of  Thrasymenus,  (which 
now  made  but  a  sorry  figure,)  were  in  the  hands  of  the  cook,  we  took 
a  stroll  over  the  town,  and  among  other  places  visited  the  Cathedral. 
It  is  a  misshapen  Gothic  edifice.  The  interior  is  filled  with  the 
paintings  of  Perugino,  who  was  a  native  of  this  city,  and  hence  de- 
rives his  distinctive  appellation.  His  fame  arises  more  from  the  cir- 
cumstance of  his  having  been  the  master  of  Raphael,  than  from  the 
intrinsic  merits  of  his  works.  Ilis  style  is  stiff",  dry,  and  hard  ;  and 
his  immortal  pupil,  who  here  commenced  his  professional  studies  at 
the  age  of  seventeen,  conferred  a  far  greater  favour  than  he  received. 
It  was  not  until  he  had  shaken  of  the  restraints  of  a  particular  school, 
that  his  genius  shone  forth  in  all  its  unrivalled  splendour  ;  and  the 
developemcnt  of  his  native  powers  was  probably  retarded  by  the 
technicalities  of  his  master,  for  wliom  he  .seems  to  have  entertained  a 


112         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

high  respect.     All  his  early  pictures  are  in  exact  imitation  of  the  old 
Perugian. 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  following  morning  we  resumed  our  journey, 
and  descended  rapidly  from  the  castellated  heights  of  Perugia  into  the 
glorious  vale,  which  spreads  towards  the  south  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach,  bounded  by  lofty  ridges  of  the  Apennines.  The  prospect,  both 
in  extent  and  variety,  in  the  purity  of  the  skies,  and  the  spontaneous 
fertihty  of  the  earth,  is  one  of  the  richest  which  our  travels  in  any 
country  have  afforded.  But  the  stream  which  waters  this  elysian  vale 
gives  it  a  still  deeper  interest.  In  an  hour  after  leaving  Perugia,  we 
found  ourselves  on  the  banks  of  the  Tiber,  far  indeed  from  Rome, 
but  hurrying  on  with  a  strong  and  rapid  current  towards  the  Seven 
Hills.  It  is  impossible  to  describe  the  sensations  which  the  first 
glance  at  this  river  excited.  It  had  the  effect  to  strike  us  all  dumb, 
and  as  we  paused  upon  the  bridge,  each  one  gazed  and  thought  for 
himself  Let  the  reader  be  assured,  that  there  is  no  affectation  in  this, 
and  that  whoever  pretends  to  survey  the  classic  wave  for  the  first  time 
without  emotion,  must  either  counterfeit  his  feelings,  or  possess  an 
extraordinary  degree  of  stupidity.  The  notoriety  of  the  Tiber  is  so 
universal,  that  the  eflfect  is  of  much  the  same  nature,  though  differing 
in  degree,  on  all  minds.  A  postillion  or  peasant  would  finger  the 
first  time  he  crossed  it.  Unlike  otlier  streams,  it  appears  to  possess 
a  sort  of  moral,  sentient  being,  which  exalts  it  above  mere  inanimate 
matter,  and  blends  it  inseparably  witli  the  grandeur  and  glory  of  Rome. 

The  water  descending  in  unsullied  purity  from  its  source  in  the 
depth  of  the  Apennines,  to  the  east  of  lake  Thrasymenus,  thus  far 
preserves  a  light  green  complexion,  differing  but  a  shade  or  two  from 
our  own  Niagara.  Its  fountains  issue  from  unbroken  solitudes,  and 
such  is  the  formation  of  its  bed  above  this  point,  as  to  impart  no  stain  ; 
an  emblem  of  the  young  republic  that  once  rose  uncontaminated  upon 
its  borders,  till  impure  tributaries  poured  in  the  tide  of  corruption. 
The  breadth  of  the  channel  does  not  here  exceed  a  hundred  and  fifty 
or  two  hundred  feet,  and  unlike  the  Arno,  the  current  covers  the 
whole  bed,  bathing  the  well  defined  and  rural  banks.  Near  the 
bridge  it  breaks  in  foam  over  several  ledges  of  rocks,  forming  musical 
and  pretty  cascades. 

At  the  post  and  httle  village  of  Madonna  degli  Angeli,  (our  Lady 
of  the  Angels,)  we  paused  long  enough  to  change  horses,  and  to  visit 
the  stupendous  church,  which  rises  in  the  midst  of  tattered  poverty. 
There  are  scarcely  inhabitants  enough  in  the  whole  region  to  fill  its 
magnificent  aisles.  It  was  designed  by  the  celebrated  architect  Vig- 
nola,  and  is  reckoned  one  of  his  finest  models.     The  altars  lining  the 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         143 

walls  are  extremely  splendid.  In  the  centre  of  the  nave  stands  a 
curious  little  antique  fabric,  which  may  be  termed  the  nucleus  of  the 
church,  possessing  extraordinary  sanctity,  and  explaining  the  reason 
why  so  noble  an  edifice  has  been  erected  for  the  accommodation  of 
such  a  handful  of  inhabitants.  This  holy  shrine  is  nothing  less  than 
the  oratory  of  St.  Francis,  wiio  was  a  native  of  the  old  town  of 
Assisium,  seated  on  the  brow  of  the  mountains,  in  full  view  of  the 
church  of  our  Lady.  It  is  another  casa  santissima^  scarcely  inferior 
to  that  of  Loretto  in  reputation.  Its  dimensions  are  perhaps  fifteen 
feet  by  ten,  ornamented  with  a  profusion  of  tiny  pinnacles,  and  filled 
with  sacred  relics.  The  walls  of  the  interior  are  covered  with  votive 
tablets  and  the  offerings  of  devotees.  It  has  an  altar  before  which  a 
throng  of  ragged  peasants  were  kneeling,  while  an  image  of  tiie  Saint 
himself  held  a  lamp,  to  light  though  not  to  enhghten  their  devotions. 
There  is  a  large  convent  adjoining  the  church ;  but  the  crack  of 
the  postillion's  whip  gave  notice,  that  no  time  remained  for  visiting 
cloisters. 

After  crossing  a  ridge  of  hills,  which  projects  like  a  promontory 
into  the  plain,  we  entered  the  vale  of  the  Clitumnus,  and  soon  arrived 
at  the  large  old  town  of  Foiigno.  Under  its  antique  walls  flows  a 
copious  stream,  which  is  tributary  to  the  Tiber,  and  the  beautiful  en- 
virons are  in  direct  contrast  with  the  penury  and  filth  of  the  decaying 
city.  The  principal  street  runs  in  nearly  a  direct  line  from  gate  to 
gate.  It  was  absolutely  thronged  with  beggars,  who  importunately 
beset  us  at  every  step.  There  was  a  very  perceptible  change  in 
the  character  of  the  people  the  moment  we  entered  the  papal  do- 
minions, upon  the  shores  of  Thrasymenus,  and  the  shades  of  degra- 
dation become  dee[)er  and  deeper,  in  proportion  as  you  penetrate  the 
heart  of  the  Roman  State.  The  inhabitants  of  Tuscany,  during  the 
happy  age  of  republican  freedom,  formed  habits  of  activity  and  indus- 
try, traces  of  which  are  still  found  among  the  peasantry.  They  ac- 
quired an  impulse,  which  notwithstanding  all  subsequent  oppression, 
lias  not  yet  wholly  ceased.  But  the  subjects  of  his  Holiness  have 
been  slaves  almost  from  time  immemorial ;  and  the  effects  are  palpa- 
ble at  every  step,  as  the  traveller  advances.  Under  a  clime  less  tem- 
perate, and  with  a  soil  less  spontaneously  productive,  the  people  would 
apparently  all  freeze  and  starve  ;  unless  indeed  these  very  bounties  of 
nature  may  have  co-operated  with  the  moral  and  religious  institutions 
of  the  country,  in  augmenting  the  wretchedness  of  the  population. 

We  paused  at  Foiigno  only  long  enough  to  change  horses,  and  were 
happy  to  leave  at  its  gates  the  clamorous  cries  for  charity,  as  well  as  to 
escape  the  stench  of  confined  streets,  to  the  breathing  fragrance  of  the 


1 44         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

environs.  The  vale  of  the  CUtumnus  is  worthy  of  all  the  panegyrics, 
which  have  been  lavished  on  its  rural  beauties  by  poets  and  tourists, 
from  Virgil  to  Byron.  Nature  here  wantons  in  luxuriance,  while  the 
indolence  of  the  inhabitants  has  left  her  to  fling  over  the  landscape 
many  of  her  wild  and  negligent  graces.  This  district  from  the  earli- 
est times  seems  to  have  been  appropriated  in  considerable  part  to  gra- 
zing ;  and  descendants  of  the  snow-white  victims,  which  once  graced 
the  triumphs  and  sacrifices  of  Rome,  are  still  found  straying  in  the 
rich  pastures,  beautifully  enamelled  with  the  species  of  red  clover  al- 
luded to  in  a  paragraph  above.  If  the  cattle,  like  the  inhabitants 
themselves,  have  degenerated,  some  of  them  are  still  large  and  hand- 
some, of  a  fine  colour,  with  wide  branching  horns,  frequently  wreath- 
ed with  garlands.  Intermingled  with  the  pastures,  are  rich  fields  of 
grain,  vineyards,  and  plantations  of  fruit  trees. 

Half  a  mile  from  the  post  of  Venne,  (the  first  after  passing  Foligno,) 
we  reached  the  banks  of  the  Clitumnus,  and  immediately  left  our 
coaches,  to  linger  by  the  classic  stream  as  long  as  our  stay  would  pos- 
sibly permit.  Next  to  the  waters  of  the  Sorgia  at  Vaucluse,  these 
fountains  are  the  most  pellucid  I  have  ever  seen.  They  possess  in- 
deed almost  the  transparency  of  the  atmosphere  itself,  and  the  eye  can 
scarcely  distinguish,  where  the  two  fluids  eome  in  contact.  Every 
pebble  and  aquatic  plant  upon  the  bottom  is  as  clearly  seen  through 
one  medium  as  the  other.  In  copiousness  as  well  as  in  purity,  the 
Clitumnus  rivals  if  it  does  not  surpass  the  Sorgia.  It  bursts  forth  all 
at  once  a  river.  Phny  and  a  party  of  his  friends  from  Rome,  (whose 
description  we  read  upon  the  bank,)  came  up  to  the  very  source  in  a 
boat.  The  fountains,  four  or  five  in  number,  gush  from  beneath  a 
ledge  of  rocks,  at  the  base  of  the  Apennines,  and  by  the  side  of  a  ter- 
race in  the  road.  They  are  forced  up  with  great  violence,  and  uniting 
with  many  smaller  ones  in  the  vicinity,  meander  sweetly  through  a  rich 
meadow  covered  with  matted  grass.  As  the  quantity  of  water  is  equa- 
ble, the  channel  is  always  filled  to  the  brim,  but  never  overflows.  A 
serious  innovation  has  been  made  upon  the  natural  beauty  of  the 
stream  by  diverting  a  part  of  it  through  a  canal,  to  be  used  for  me- 
chanical purposes. 

The  little  temple  which  is  said  to  have  been  erected  to  Jupiter  CU- 
tumnus, and  to  have  contained  a  statue  of  the  god,  stands  by  the  side 
of  the  road,  and  close  upon  the  brink  of  the  stream,  something  more 
than  half  a  mile  from  its  highest  source.  Its  construction  is  entirely 
unique,  growing  in  part  out  of  its  position  upon  a  steep  declivity. 
The  lower  story,  called  the  crypt,  is  subterranean  on  one  side,  and 
with  a  slight  opening  through  the  wall  in  front.     Its  ceiling  forms  the 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  14,-, 

t^avomciit  of  the  upper  story,  and  is  composed  of  large  flat  stones, 
which  were  evidently  taken  from  the  ruins  of  other  buildings,  as  they 
contain  mutilated  inscriptions  on  the  under  faces. 

Tiie  principal  floor  of  the  temple  is  above  the  crypt.  Its  dimen- 
sions do  not  exceed  eight  feet  by  ten,  open  on  one  side,  with  a  blind 
wall  on  the  other.  P'our  small  Corinthian  pillars,  and  two  pilasters, 
ornament  the  front.  These  have  all  the  appearance  of  being  very  an- 
cient ;  and  the  most  rational  conjecture  seems  to  be,  that  this  fantastic 
little  structure  is  a  piece  of  patch-work,  of  comparatively  modern  ori- 
gin, formed  out  of  the  wreck  of  the  Roman  temple,  which  according 
to  PHny  and  other  authorities,  stood  by  the  fountains  of  the  Chtum- 
nus.  It  is  certain  that  the  religious  character  of  the  edifice  has  un- 
dergone a  change  ;  for  it  is  now  dedicated  to  the  Virgin,  whose  .altar 
and  image  give  sanctity  to  the  inmost  shrine. 

The  next  post  brought  us  to  Spoleto,  a  largo  town  of  great  anticjuity, 
.situated  on  a  gentle  acclivity  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  vale  of 
the  Clitumnus,  of  which  it  commands  an  enchanting  view.  More 
than  two  thousand  years  ago,  it  was  of  sufficient  strength  to  withstand 
a  siege  and  repel  the  arms  of  Hannibal  ;  and  in  the  eternal  succession 
of  wars,  by  which  Italy  has  been  visited  since  that  period,  Spoleto  has 
always  been  deemed  an  important  post,  as  commanding  a  pass  of  the 
mountains  leading  to  Rome.  An  immense  Gothic  fortress,  erected 
by  Theodoric,  crowns  an  insulated  hill,  which  overlooks  the  town,  and 
forms  a  picturesque  object  at  a  distance.  The  ramparts  and  gates 
are  massive,  resembling  rather  a  garrison  than  a  city,  though  at  pre- 
.scnt  it  contains  no  other  warriors  than  an  army  of  priests  and  monks, 
forming  a  portion  of  the  church  militant.  Like  all  the  other  towns 
on  this  route,  the  interior  is  dirty,  gloomy,  and  mean,  exhibiting  an 
image  of  poverty  and  decay.  It  is  said  to  possess  some  respectable 
specimens  of  the  fine  arts  ;  but  had  inclination  prompted,  time  per- 
mitted us  to  rest  only  long  enough  to  receive  a  fresh  relay  of  horses. 

In  making  our  exit  under  the  lofty  walls,  we  had  a  fine  view  of  the 
environs,  embracing  one  or  two  palaces  and  convents  on  the  right,  and 
a  colossal  structure  on  the  left,  crossing  a  deep  ravine,  and  serving  in 
the  double  capacity  of  a  bridge  and  an  aqueduct.  I  leave  antiqua- 
ries to  settle  the  disputed  point,  whether  it  is  of  Roman  or  Gothic  ori- 
gin. On  the  east  of  this  pass,  dividing  the  town  from  the  mountain, 
are  hanging  groves  of  ilex,  sprinkled  with  numerous  white  hermitages, 
perched  at  apparently  inaccessible  heights  upon  the  rocks,  and  half 
concealed  by  the  foliage.  They  enjoy  an  undisturbed  retirement,  and 
are  inhabited  by  a  peculiar  class  of  anchorites,  who  lead  a  secluded 

^'01,.  ir.  19 


140        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

life  from  choice,  without  having  ever  bound  themselves  by  the  formality 
of  a  vow. 

Our  ascent  for  several  miles  up  the  acclivities  of  Monte  Somma, 
dragged  as  usually  by  six  horses  and  four  oxen,  (the  latter  having  on 
this  occasion  the  new  appendage  of  a  string  of  bells,)  was  extremely 
slow  and  toilsome.  The  top  of  this  mountain,  over  which  the  road 
runs,  is  five  thousand  feet  in  height.  It  commands  a  most  enchanting 
prospect  backward  into  the  vale  of  Clitumnus,  over  the  antique  towers  of 
Spoleto,  rising  at  the  outlet  of  the  pass.  The  last  glimpse  of  scenery, 
which  had  been  a  constant  source  of  pleasure  during  the  day,  was  ab- 
solutely painful  to  the  mind. 

From  the  top  of  Monte  Somma,  we  descended  rapidly  into  a  deep 
gorge,  which  opens  on  the  southern  side.  The  road  follows  the  bed 
of  a  mountain  torrent,  savage,  waste,  and  wild — a  perfect  contrast  to 
the  soft,  flowery  landscape,  to  which  we  had  just  bidden  good  night. 
For  many  miles  these  solitudes,  formed  by  lofty  ridges  of  the  Apen- 
nines, rising  like  walls  on  either  hand,  and  shutting  out  the  light  of  the 
sun,  are  unbroken  by  a  habitation  of  any  kind,  and  affording  no  means 
of  succour  in  case  of  accident.  The  scenery  in  itself,  shaded  with 
tlie  gloom  of  twilight,  is  absolutely  terrific  ;  and  the  feelings  of  the 
traveller  are  not  the  more  pleasurable  from  a  knowledge  of  the  fact, 
that  the  fastnesses  along  the  road  have  at  times  been  the  favourite 
haunts  of  banditti.  However  remote  might  be  the  danger  of  robberies, 
at  present,  the  sound  of  the  vesper  bell  at  Terni,  stealing  up  the  ra- 
vine and  breaking  the  dreariness  of  the  waste,  was  by  no  means  un- 
welcome to  our  ears.  The  town  is  effectually  concealed  from  view, 
by  the  woody  environs  spreading  from  the  outlet  of  the  pass  to  the 
very  walls. 

We  arrivedjust  before  sunset,  and  much  to  our  regret,  had  not  time 
to  visit  the  falls  of  Velino,  which  are  at  the  distance  of  five  miles, 
among  the  mountains,  requiring  several  hours  to  make  the  excursion. 
The  disappointment,  however,  was  somewhat  softened  by  the  proba- 
bility of  returning  by  the  same  route  to  the  North  of  Italy :  and  as  our 
anxiety  to  reach  Rome  increased  in  proportion  to  our  approach,  it  was 
concluded  not  to  lose  a  day  at  present,  for  the  sake  of  visiting  the  cas- 
cade. Terni  possesses  little  interest  of  any  kind,  except  as  the  birth- 
place of  the  historian  Tacitus ;  and  even  his  memory  is  kept  alive  by 
no  monumental  records.  There  are  few  antiquities,  and  still  fewer 
works  of  modern  art  to  attract  the  attention  of  the  traveller.  We  in- 
quired in  vain  at  the  shops  of  booksellers,  for  the  Annals  and  the  His- 
tory of  their  own  immortal  townsman,  as  well  as  for  some  of  the  other 
Latin  Classics,  wishing  to  find  a  higher  source  of  amusement  for  the 
evening,  than  a  decaying  and  poverty-stricken  city  can  afford- 


LETTERS  FR03r  EUROPE.         I  17 

LETTER  LVI. 

KOUTE  TO  ROME — VALE    OF  THE  AAR — PASSAGE    THROUGH    THE    MOUN- 
TAINS  NARNI OTRICOLI CIVITA     CASTELLANA MOUNT      SOR  ACTK 

UACCANO CAMl'AGNA  DI  ROMA MILVIAN  BRI1>GE PORTA  DEL  PO- 

POLO ARRIVAL  AT  ROME. 

April,  1S2G. 

At  five  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  23d,  we  commenced  our  last 
day's  journey  towards  Rome.  In  emerging  from  the  narrow,  dark  t 
gloomy  streets  of  Terni,  into  the  beautiful  plain,  in  the  midst  of  which 
it  is  situated,  the  mind  experiences  no  small  degree  of  surprise,  that 
such  poverty  and  wretchedness  can  be  surrounded  with  so  many  boun- 
ties of  nature.  But  the  priest-ridden,  oppressed,  dispirited  inhabitants 
seem  to  be  almost  too  inactive,  to  reap  the  harvests  which  spring  spon- 
taneously at  their  hands  ;  or  if  they  do  reap  them,  their  garners  arc 
exhausted  to  support  swarms  of  ecclesiastics,  and  to  defray  the  ex- 
penses of  a  splendid  religion.  The  vale  of  the  Nar  maintains  its  an- "" 
cient  character  for  fertility,  and  the  peasant  apparently  might  mow  his 
four  crops  of  grass  in  the  year,  as  he  is  said  to  have  done  in  the  age 
of  Pliny.  At  any  rate,  one  crop  at  this  early  season  was  in  readiness 
for  the  scythe,  and  covered  the  banks  of  the  little  stream  with  all  the 
luxuriance  of  vegetation. 

Half  a  mile  beyond  the  village  of  Narni,  our  carriages  were  left  to 
chmb  a  long  hill,  while  we  hastened  to  view  the  ruins  of  the  bridge  of 
Augustus,  extending  from  one  mountain  to  another  across  the  Nar, 
where  the  river  makes  its  exit  from  the  valley  through  a  rugged  pass 
of  the  Apennines.  It  was  a  sight  worth  seeing.  There  were  origin- 
ally four  stupendous  arches,  one  of  wliich  is  yet  standing,  though  its 
massive  blocks  of  stone,  started  from  their  places,  and  hanging  at  a 
dizzy  height  in  the  air,  seemed  ready  at  every  moment  to  drop  upon 
our  heads.  Some  of  their  fellows  have  already  yielded  to  the  pressure 
of  the  hand  of  time,  and  left  wide  rents  in  the  imperial  structure.  One 
of  the  piers,  in  the  shape  of  a  dilapidated  tower,  with  a  tuft  of  shrub- 
bery springing  from  its  top;  has  braved  for  nearly  two  thousand  years 
the  impetuous  current  of  the  Nar,  wliich  foams  and  dashes  round  the 
ruin.  The  com[)lexion  of  this  stream  is  exactly  expressed  by  the  epi- 
thet sulphureous^  applied  to  it  by  the  Latin  poets,  who  were  as  chaste 
and  discriminating  in  their  colouring  of  objects,  as  were  tlie  great 
painters  of  modern  Italy. 

The  passage  of  the  Nar,  through  this  long,  rugged,  and  profound 


148        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

chasm  is  not  only  pisturesque  but  grand.  If  it  were  the  Tiber,  instead 
of  only  one  of  its  branches,  the  scene  would  be  sublime.  The  abyss 
is  several  hundred  feet  deep,  bordered  on  either  hand  by  nearly  per- 
pendicular walls  of  rocks  and  hanging  woods,  thrown  together  with  a 
good  deal  of  rudeness.  So  rough  is  the  channel  as  to  keep  the  river 
in  a  constant  foam  for  a  mile  or  two.  The  hills  on  the  right  bank  are 
perfectly  solitary,  crowned  with  forests  of  great  depth  and  richness. 
An  old  path  for  miles,  winding  along  the  opposite  cUfFs,  forms  a  stri- 
king and  romantic  feature  in  the  picture.  The  ancient  town  of  Narni 
occupies  the  very  summit  of  the  hill,  on  the  left  bank,  and  from  its 
ramparts,  the  eye  looks  down  into  the  yawning  gulf,  or  turns  to  sur- 
vey once  more  the  sunny  vale  of  Terni,  in  which  the  Nar  seems  to 
linger,  enamoured  of  its  flowery  borders,  before  it  hurries  away  through 
the  mountain  pass.  Our  ascent  to  the  town  from  the  ruins  of  the 
bridge  was  extremely  arduous,  and  the  streets  form  such  a  perfect 
labyrinth,  that  it  was  necessary  to  take  a  guide  to  show  us  the  way  to 
our  coaches.  Narni  has  never  recovered,  and  apparently  never  will  re- 
cover, from  the  ravages  of  the  Venetians,  in  the  16th  century,  while 
they  were  in  alliance,  or  rather  co-operated  with  the  Emperor  Charles 
V.  in  scourging  Italy.  The  houses  are  little  more  than  miserable 
hovels,  and  the  inhabitants  appear  to  be  sunk  into  the  lowest  depths  of 
poverty. 

After  traversing  for  some  distance  the  high  banks  of  the  Nar,  and 
thence  passing  a  deep  woody  glen,  we  arrived  a  second  time  in  sight 
of  the  Tiber,  whose  waters  had  been  augmented  by  several  large  tri- 
butaries since  leaving  Perugia.  The  ruins  of  the  old  town  of  Ocri- 
culum,  in  tlie  territory  of  Umbria,  break  through  the  smooth  green 
sward  of  a  plain,  which  spreads  between  the  road  and  the  left  bank  of 
the  river,  rising  in  dark,  insulated  masses.  It  is  said  that  a  continuous 
faubourg,  lined  with  ranges  of  palaces  and  temples,  extended  hence  to 
the  gates  of  Rome.  Such  a  conjecture  in  its  full  extent  is  at  least 
doubtful,  as  few  traces  of  such  magnificence  have  been  found.  The 
modern  town  of  Otricoli,  stands  upon  a  hill,  within  a  short  distance  of 
its  ancient  namesake  ;  and  the  former  is  almost  in  as  ruinous  a  condi- 
tion as  the  latter. 

The  vale  of  the  Tiber  is  here  extremely  rural,  and  the  current  itself 
broad  and  strong,  but  quiet,  bordered  by  extensive  fields  of  grain  and 
pasturage.  It  has  a  very  scanty  population,  and  the  landscape  exhibits 
an  air  of  loneliness.  From  the  ancient  territory  of  Umbria,  we  crossed 
to  the  Sabine  shore,  on  the  Ponte  Felice  ;  a  fine  bridge,  originally  built 
by  Augustus,  and  repaired  by  Pope  Sixtus  Quintus,  who  has  taken 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        149 

good  care  that  the  public  shall  be  fully  apprised  of  liis  services,  through 
the  medium  of  numerous  inscriptions. 

In  emerging  from  the  gates  of  Borghetto,  at  the  commencement  of 
the  next  post,  the  team  attached  to  the  carriage  of  our  friends  became 
refractory  and  unmanageable.  One  of  the  horses  fell  with  tlie  postillion 
xmder  him,  by  which  it  was  subsequently  ascertained,  that  his  leg  was 
fractured.  But  the  poor  fellow  insisted  on  going  to  the  next  post,  as 
he  would  otherwise  lose  his  place  ;  for  his  Holiness  has  made  a  regu- 
lation, that  any  coachman  who  happens  to  get  floored^  whether  by  his 
own  fault  or  that  of  the  horses,  shall  forthwith  be  discharged  from  the 
line. 

Civita  Castellana  is  said  to  stand  upon  the  site  of  old  Veii.  In  en- 
tering it,  the  traveller  crosses  a  bridge  thrown  over  a  deep  and  singu- 
lar gulf,  which  appears  like  a  fissure  opened  in  the  plain  by  some  great 
convulsion  of  nature.  It  extends  under  the  walls  of  the  town  like  an  arti- 
ficial fosse.  Its  banks  are  naked  and  exhibit  geological  strata  to  a 
great  depth.  This  region  seems  once  to  have  been  volcanic.  The 
formation  is  a  reddish  sand-stone,  covered  with  a  light  soil.  A  stately 
aqueduct  stretches  across  the  ravine,  which  added  to  the  massive  ram- 
parts, and  the  enormous  castle  whence  the  city  derives  its  distinctive 
appellation,  presents  rather  an  imposing  view.  The  interior  offers 
nothing  attractive,  but  much  to  sicken  and  sadden  the  heart.  Pausing 
merely  long  enough  to  take  some  refreshment  at  a  wretched  hotel,  wc 
liastened  across  a  sandy,  solitary  waste  to  Nepi,  and  thence  to  Monte 
llosi. 

Just  before  entering  the  latter  town,  a  pretty  lake  was  observed  on 
the  right  of  the  road  ;  while  on  the  left,  Mount  Soracte  had  been  full 
in  sight,  during  a  ride  of  many  miles.  It  now  bears  the  name  of  St. 
Oreste.  Byron  has  in  three  lines  presented  an  exact  image  of  this  hill, 
which 

— "  from  out  the  plain 
Ileavc?,  like  a  long-swept  wave  about  to  break, 
And  on  the  curl  hany;s  pausing." 

j^o  true  is  ihc  profile,  that  it  was  at  once  recognized.  The  mountain 
has  little  of  the  dignity,  which  might  be  inferred  from  Horace's  descrip- 
tion. Although  the  snow  was  still  lying  upon  the  peaks  ofthe  long  chain 
of  Apennines  to  the  east,  not  a  flake  was  visible  upon  the  dusky  brow 
of  Soracte.  It  is  indeed  of  moderate  elevation  ;  less,  1  should  think, 
than  that  of  the  Catskill,  rising  from  the  waste  in  the  shape  of  a  long 
dark  ridge,  insulated  from  all  other  hills.  Horace  drew  its  likeness  in 
mid  winter,  and  the  reason  why  he  selected  it  in  preference  to  othcr.<5 


^ 


150        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

of  greater  altitude,  was  probably  the  rare  phenomenon  of  its  being  bu- 
ried in  snow,  and  therefore  presenting  a  more  striking  image  of  the 
intensity  of  cold. 

From  Nepi  and  indeed  from  Borghetto  onward,  the  whole  country  is 
pretty  much  a  region  of  desolation,  so  far  at  least  as  it  regards  human 
beings.  The  soil  however  does  not  appear  to  be  sterile.  In  many 
places,  the  road  is  bordered  with  woods,  shrubbery,  and  wild  flowers. 
But  with  the  exception  of  the  few  old  towns  scattered  at  distant  inter- 
vals along  the  waste,  and  with  scarcely  inhabitants  enough  to  guard 
the  ruins,  there  is  absolutely  no  population.  The  last  of  these  depo- 
pulated villages,  before  reaching  the  Campagna  di  Roma,  is  Baccano, 
consisting  of  a  cluster  of  old  buildings  situated  in  the  bottom  of  a  deep 
basin,  shaped  like  the  crater  of  a  volcano.  It  is  said  to  be  peculiarly 
subject  to  Malaria — an  inference  which  might  readily  be  drawn  from 
its  position,  as  an  unbroken  ridge  of  hills  guards  it  effectually  from  ven- 
tillation,  and  causes  a  perfect  stagnation  of  the  air.  The  settlement, 
whatever  may  have  been  its  ancient  or  modern  extent,  is  now  dwindled 
to  a  handful  of  inhabitants,  and  would  probably  be  wholly  abandoned, 
were  it  not  necessary  for  the  accommodation  of  travellers. 

At  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  on  making  our  exit  through  an  arti- 
ficial notch  in  this  crater,  the  Campagna  di  Roma  burst  full  upon  our 
view,  spreading  towards  the  south  like  a  blue  and  boundless  waste  of 
ocean,  with  an  interminable  range  of  Apennines  on  the  east,  and  Mont 
Albano,  bearing  a  circle  of  white  villages  upon  its  brow,  rising  in  the 
midst  hke  a  dim  and  distant  island.  With  such  scenery  before  us,  and 
in  the  enthusiasm  of  the  moment,  it  was  to  no  effect  that  the  coachman 
remonstrated  against  the  delay  of  climbing  the  hills,  by  the  side  of  the 
road,  for  the  sake  of  extending  the  prospect.  From  these  heights, 
and  at  the  distance  of  fourteen  miles,  Rome  itself,  seated  upon  the  Se- 
ven Hills  in  all  its  lonely  grandeur,  and  elevated  moderately  above  its 
low-lying  environs,  presented  a  long,  faint  line  of  buildings  in  the  verge 
of  the  horizon.  Over  all,  the  dome  of  St.  Peter's  was  conspicuous, 
and  rose  like  a  sun-lit  beacon,  to  guide  our  pathway  across  the  desert, 
Vfh\ch.  yet  remained  to  be  traversed,  before  reaching  the  gates  of  "  the 
Eternal  City.'- 

Having  gazed  till  the  eagerness  of  curiosity  was  in  some  degree  al- 
layed, though  by  no  means  satisfied,  we  rejoined  our  carriages  and  com- 
menced a  rapid  flight  over  the  Campagna.  I  have  compared  this  im- 
mense waste,  which  lies  in  a  circular  form,  and  is  something  more 
than  a  hundred  miles  in  circumference,  to  the  sea  itself,  to  which  its 
uniform  expanse  bears  a  striking  resemblance.  Perhaps  its  formation 
cannot  be  better  illustrated,  than  by  another  comparison  drawn  from 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         151 

the  same  element.  Its  surface  is  not  a  dead  level  and  marshy,  as  the 
remarks  of  some  travellers  had  left  me  to  believe,*  but  is  varied  by  un- 
dulations, of  about  the  size  of  heavy  swells  of  the  ocean  in  a  gale. 
The  road  crosses  several  pretty  brooks,  one  of  which  (the  Cremera) 
was  reddened  with  the  blood  of  the  tiiree  hundred  Fabii,  who  fell  in 
battle  with  the  old  Vientes.  In  the  whole  distance  of  fourteen  or  fif- 
teen miles,  I  did  not  observe  a  drop  of  stagnant  water,  or  nuisances  of 
any  kind,  which  would  be  likely  to  breed  pestilence.  The  soil  is  a 
light  sandy  loam — the  last  in  the  world  to  which  we  should  look  for 
bad  air  and  noxious  exhalations.     But  more  of  this  hereafter. 

The  Campagna  is  by  no  means  so  barren,  as  many  tourists  have  re- 
presented. It  is  uniformly  covered  with  a  lively  green  sod,  like  ordi- 
nary American  pasture  land  ;  appearing  to  be  fed  close  by  the  cattle, 
sheep,  and  goats,  which  are  forever  grazing  upon  it,  both  summer  and 
winter.  The  whole  region  lies  unfenced,  though  the  herdsmen  and 
shepherds  of  the  proprietors  have  their  prescribed  limits.  There  arc 
no  trees  of  any  kind,  and  the  shrubbery  along  the  road  is  scanty.  The 
genista  or  broom,  gay  with  its  yellow  blossoms,  sometimes  skirted  the 
path  ;  and  in  the  most  desolate  parts  of  the  Campagna,  the  wild  pop- 
py waved  its  crimson  petals.  This  latter  plant,  with  all  its  gaiety  of 
dress,  appears  to  be  a  recluse  in  its  habits,  loving  unfrequented  fields, 
and  the  most  desolate  ruins.  It  grows  in  such  profusion,  as  to  form 
a  conspicuous  feature  in  Italian  landscape. 

Scarcely  a  single  acre  of  this  immense  tract,  embracing  twelve  or 
fifteen  hundred  square  miles,  is  under  cultivation  ;  but  in  my  opinion, 
by  proper  tillage,  by  the  use  of  gypsum  and  other  manures,  it  might 
easily  be  reclaimed,  and  rendered  highly  productive  of  grass,  grain,  ve- 
getables, and  fruits.  If  the  Pope,  his  seventy  Cardinals,  and  the  Ro- 
man nobility,  would  apportion  out  the  neglected  patrimony  of  St.  Peter 
to  a  colony  of  Yankee  emigrants,  they  would  in  less  than  half  a  centu- 
ry make  the  Campagna  di  Roma  one  of  the  finest  countries  in  the 
world,  besides  expelling  that  dasmon  of  the  waste,  the  Mal'aria,  and 
restoring  republican  liberty  to  the  Seven  Hills.  Such  have  been  my 
remarks  in  crossing  this  region  in  several  directions,  and  such  is  my 
full  belief.  Industry  and  enterprise  would  perform  greater  miracles, 
than  even  the  Romish  church  has  ever  witnessed. 

The  Campagna  has  at  present  all  that  lonehness  and  solitude  which 
have  been  ascribed  to  it.  There  are  probably  not  a  thousand  inhabitants 
in  as  many  square  miles.  It  is  in  fact,  an  unpeopled  desert.  A  kw^  very 


*  LaJy  Morgan  speaks  of  people  at  work  "in  pestilential  marshes.'' 


16-2  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

few  miserable  habitations,  with  still  more  wretched  tenants,  are  scat- 
tered at  distant  intervals  along  the  road.  The  rest  is  all  silence  and 
desolation.  Sometimes  the  mind  is  almost  startled  at  the  dreariness  of 
the  picture.  Bleak  ruins  are  occasionally  seen  bursting  the  cerements 
of  the  green  sod,  and  rising  from  the  plain,  as  it  were  the  sepulchral 
monuments  of  buried  splendour,  the  shadowy  spectres  of  other  ages  I 
Here  and  there  an  old  tower  or  castle  rises  from  a  mound,  or  the  arches 
of  an  aqueduct  stretch  in  a  long  hne  of  ruins  across  the  waste.  Jlound 
the  shattered  batdements  of  one  of  the  former,  a  large  flock  of  rooks 
were  seen  hovering,  darkening  the  air  with  their  dusky  wings,  and 
croaking  a  note  of  triumph  over  their  undisturbed  dominions. 

Even  scenes  and  objects,  which  in  a  different  location  would  assume 
an  air  of  cheerfulness  and  rural  quiet,  are  here  assimilated  to  the  pre- 
vailing gloom.  In  one  instance  a  httle  sheep-fold  was  observed  near 
the  road,  with  the  ruminating  flock  reclining  in  peace,  and  three  shep- 
herd's dogs  sleeping  by  the  side  of  their  charge,  unattended  by  their 
master.  The  crowd  of  peasants,  who  were  journeying  on  towards 
Rome,  with  the  produce  of  their  Etrurian  farms,  and  had  encamped  for 
the  night,  near  the  tomb  of  Nero,  before  the  gates  of  the  city,  having 
unyoked  their  teams  to  graze  upon  the  Campagna,  presented  a  picture 
at  once  novel  and  interesting. 

In  approaching  Rome  from  the  heights  of  Baccano,  the  aspect  of 
the  city  shifted  and  became  more  distinct  at  every  step.  The  ranges 
of  palaces  and  churches  and  domes  and  towers,  extending  from  hill  to 
hill,  for  the  distance  of  several  miles,  flanked  by  the  Vatican  and  St. 
Peter's  on  the  right,  all  rising  above  the  long  line  of  ancient  ramparts, 
and  gilded  by  the  beams  of  the  declining  sun,  formed  a  coup  d'oeil  of 
indescribable  grandeur.  It  very  far  surpassed  my  expectations  of  the 
modern  city,  and  I  might  almost  adopt  the  language  of  the  Mantuan 
Shepherd,  in  comparing  its  imperial  magnificence  with  his  native  town. 
The  Dome  of  St.  Peter's,  with  its  burnished  cross,  conspicuous  as 
that  which  Constantino  saw  blazing  in  mid  air,  was  constantly  in  sight. 
It  emphatically  forms  a  Pharos  to  every  part  of  the  Campagna. 

Just  at  evening  we  descended  by  a  moderate  declivity  from  the  high 
level  of  the  plain,  to  the  narrow  fringe  of  meadow  which  borders  the 
Tiber,  at  the  Milvian  Bridge.  This  classic  and  noble  stream,  having 
received  in  its  course  the  copious  fountains  of  the  Clitumnus,  the  white 
waters  of  the  Nar,  and  the  turbid  contributions  of  the  Anio,  with  many 
others  of  less  note,  is  here  thrice  as  large  as  at  the  Bridge  of  St.  John 
near  Perugia,  a  hundred  miles  above,  and  its  complexion  has  under- 
gone an  entire  change.  The  latter  circumstance  is  not  less  attributa- 
ble to  the  alluvial  formation  of  its  own  bed,  in  traversing  the  Umbrian 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         153 

and  Sabine  borders,  as  well  as  the  sandy  waste  of  the  Campagna,  than 
to  the  colour  of  the  above  mentioned  tributaries.  But  notwithstanding 
all  the  defects  of  the  Tiber,  the  impurity  of  its  water  and  the  frequent 
turbulence  of  its  current,  it  is  a  river  of  much  intrinsic  grandeur — bold, 
impetuous,  and  resistless,  like  the  character  of  the  old  Romans  in  the 
days  of  the  Republic.  Wherever  a  glimpse  of  it  is  caught,  whether 
sweeping  across  the  solitudes  of  the  Campagna,  or  struggling  through 
the  ruins  of  the  city,  it  is  always  hailed  by  the  traveller  with  inexpressi- 
ble interest.  At  the  Milvian  Bridge,  I  should  think  its  current  little 
inferior  in  breadth  to  the  Seine  at  Paris,  and  much  superior  to  it  in 
dignity,  as  the  banks  have  resumed  their  natural  wildness,  and  are  ru- 
ral, green,  and  flowery.  It  here  makes  a  majestic  svv'eep  towards  the 
south,  belbre  entering  the  walls  of  the  city,  at  the  distance  of  a  mile 
or  two.  Its  quiet  wave,  at  the  time  of  our  crossing  it,  reflected  the 
ruddy  hues  of  evening,  and  seemed  as  a  mirror  to  its  picturesque 
margin.  My  readers  must  excuse  me  for  dwelling  so  long  upon  one 
topic  ;  for  I  am  fairly  in  love  witii  the  Tiber,  the  more  so  perhaps,  be- 
cause its  character  has  met  with  shameless  detractors. 

The  Milvian  Bridge,  though  alluded  to  by  Cicero  and  Sallust,  is  less 
interesting  in  its  historical  associations,  than  some  othnr  structures  of 
the  same  description  at  Rome.  It  is  celebrated  for  the  death  of  the 
Emperor  Maxentius  in  the  4th  century.  As  he  was  retreating  to  the 
city,  after  his  defeat  by  Constantino,  the  shattered  bridge  gave  way, 
and  the  Tiber  swallowed  up  a  monster,  who  had  stained  its  shores 
with  the  enormity  of  his  crimes.  Happy  would  it  have  been  for  Rome, 
if  his  victor,  falsely  styled  "  the  Great,"  and  now  canonized  by  the 
inhabitants  of  a  city  uhich  he  plundered  and  ruined,  had  shared  the 
same  fate  witli  his  vanquished  foe.  With  the  cross  for  his  banner,  and 
with  religion  upon  his  lips,  his  heart  was  black  with  hypocrisy  and 
crime — the  murderer  of  his  own  son,*  a  tyrant  in  power,  and  a  Goth 
in  taste.  Yet  I  know  not  but  his  statue  is  among  the  group  of  saints, 
who  line  the  balustrades,  and  guard  the  passage  of  the  Milvian  Bridge, 
which  is  of  too  substantial  a  character  to  be  in  danger  of  again  tumbling 
for  some  centuries,  though  it  daily  sustains  a  greater  weight  of  digni- 
taries, than  both  of  the  Emperors  put  together — made  up  of  the  Pope, 
Cardinals,  and  Roman  nobility,  whipping  across  it  every  evening  with 
their  splendid  equipages,  in  the  long  rounds  of  the  Corso. 

Crowds  of  these  personages  and  others  of  inferior  rank,  with  plu- 
med chasseurs  and  triplets  of  red  stockings  posted  behind  their  car- 


*  Scarcely  had  the  baptismal  water  been  wiped  from  his  brow,  before  he  cau- 
sed his  gallant  son  to  be  poisoned  at  the  instigation  of  an  abandoned  step-ftiothei* 
VOL.  II.  20 


154         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

riages,*  were  met  in  our  ride  of  a  mile  through  the  fliubourg  to  the 
Porta  del  Popolo.  Wide  as  the  street  is,  it  was  hardly  broad  enough 
for  the  passage  of  such  a  throng,  foot  and  horse,  enveloped  in  clouds 
of  dust.  This  cracking  of  whips  and  animated  bustle  upon  the 
modern  course,  forcibly  reminded  me  of  Horace's  allusion  to  the  cha- 
•  riot  races  of  the  ancients  : 

"  Sunt  quos  curriculo  pulvci-em  Olympicum 

CoUegisse  juvat:  metaque  fervidis 

Evitata  rotis,  palmaque  iiobilis  " 

Terrarum  dominos  evehit  ad  Deos." 

What  a  contrast  did  such  a  scene  present,  when  compared  with 
the  depopulated  solitudes  we  had  just  traversed  ;  and  how  much  wealth 
is  here  squandered  by  the  heirs  of  St.  Peter,  which  ought  to  be  there 
expended  in  improving  his  patrimony  !  But  a  coach,  bounding  over 
the  pavements  at  the  rate  of  ten  miles  an  hour,  does  not  afibrd  a  fit 
opportunity  for  moralizing.  Our  postillions,  thinking  perchance  that 
their  short  scarlet  doublets,  yellow  breeches,  and  tinsel  hat-bands, 
might  be  mistaken  for  the  livery  of  men  of  consequence,  dashed 
through  the  multitude,  giving  us  little  time  to  examine  the  Rotunda  of 
St.  Andrew  on  the  left,  the  lofty  ramparts  in  front,  and  the  Pincian  "and 
Marian  hills,  lifting  their  summits  on  either  hand. 

We  first  drove  through  the  gate — and  then  asked  leave  to  enter  the 
city  of  the  Caesars.  The  delay  of  half  an  hour,  occupied  in  the  ex- 
amination of  our  passports  and  baggage,  was  far  from  being  an  incon- 
venience, or  hanging  heavily  on  our  hands  in  this  instance.  Before 
us  opened  the  spacious  Piazza  of  the  Porta  del  Popolo,t  enriched 
with  many  of  the  peculiar  monuments  of  Roman  magnificence. 
Three  of  the  principal  streets  in  the  city  terminate  like  radii  in  this 
square,  enabling  the  eye  to  extend  far  up  their  vistas  lined  with  pa- 
laces and  churches,  in  long  perspective.     Of  these  streets  the  middle 


*  Chasseurs  are  the  most  fusliionable  species  of  servants  both  in  France  and 
Italy.  They  are  generally  grenadiers  in  person,  so  as  to  be  able  to  afford  effectual 
protection  in  case  of  an  attack.  Their  dress  is  military,  even  to  the  sword  and 
mustaches,  and  a  cluster  of  variegated  plumes,  nod  upon  their  gallant  brows.  The 
cardinals  always  drive  with  three  servants  perched  behind,  clad  in  red  stockings, 
probably  to  show  they  are  in  the  service  of  the  Church  Militant.     Tlie  Pope's 

suite  are  mere  harlequins,  with  party-coloured  garments,  like  the  clown  of  a  circus, 
t  Eustace  says,  this  gate  derives  its  name  from  the  groves  of  poplars,  which  used 

to  grow  in  the  vicinity  ;  but  our  experience  would  lead  us  to  a  more  obvious  and 

popular  etymology .    Its  architecture,  though  much  censured  by  critics,  is  rich  and 

splendid. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         155 

one  is  the  Corso,  in  all  respects  the  finest,  most  fusliionublc,  and  most 
li-cquented  in  town.  Jt  runs  from  the  Capital  to  the  Porta  del  Popolo 
in  nearly  a  direct  line,  is  broad,  handsomely  paved,  and  a  part  of  the  way, 
furnished  with  side-walks.  At  the  hour  of  our  arrival  it  was  thronged 
with  carriages,  which  were  pouring  incessantly  into  (he  Piazza. 
Some  of  them  continued  the  course  through  the  gate  ;  others  wound 
their  way  up  a  terraced  road  to  the  top  of  the  Pincian  Mount,  on  our 
left ;  and  the  remainder,  wheeling  round  an  Egyptian  Obelisk, 
erected  as  a  goal  in  the  centre  of  the  square,  either  halted  on  the 
great  Exchange  of  Fashion,  to  stare  and  be  stared  at,  or  made  another 
circuit  through  the  Corso.  Such  arc  the  high  sports  in  the  capital  of 
his  Holiness  on  Sunday  evening. 

The  magnificent  area,  surrounded  by  three  stately  churches  and  by 
two  white  marble  fountains  crowned  with  colossal  statues,  thronged 
as  it  was  with  no  inconsiderable  share  of  the  splendour,  beauty,  taste, 
and  fashion,  which  a  population  of  a  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  can 
afford,  formed  an  imposing  vestibule  to  the  imperial  city.  We  sat  in 
our  carriages,  in  the  ^midst  of  the  multitude,  and  learned  much  in  a 
short  time.  The  Roman  ladies  are  beautiful — pre-eminently  beauti- 
ful over  those  of  any  part  of  Italy  we  have  yet  seen — in  face,  form, 
and'complexion  ;  blending  grace  with  dignity  of  manners,  and  a  com- 
parative simplicity  with  richness  and  elegance  of  dress.  As  for  the 
other  sex,  they  appear  in  most  cases  to  have  degenerated  sadly  from 
their  patrician  ancestors  ;  and  few  traces  of  the  old  Roman  character, 
either  in  mind  or  person,  are  to  be  found  in  their  descendants.  The  . 
Italian  language,  as  here  spoken,  is  melody  itself  in  comparison  with 
the  harsh,  guttural  intonations  of  the  Tuscans,  though  the  latter  .are 
the  fathers  of  the  modern  dialect,  and  are  said  to  write  it  with  greater 
purity  than  the  Romans. 

But  not  to  enter  farther  upon  these  topics  at  present  :.  we  took 
lodgings  at  the  Hotel  de  TEurope,  situated  on  the  Piazza  di  Sjjagna, 
the  finest  part  of  the  city.  The  area  extends  along  the  base  of  the 
Pincian  Hill,  to  the  brow  of  which  a  magnificent  flight  of  marble 
steps,  perhaps  a  hundred  feet  in  breadth,  and  as  many  in  perj)ondicu- 
lar  height,  aflbrds  an  easy  ascent.  Rome  is  indebted  to  the  late  king 
of  France,  Louis  XVIII.  for  this  colossal  work,  which  adds  much  to 
the  beauty  of  the  city.  At  the  head  of  the  steps,  the  same  monarch 
restored  a  large  church  and  established  an  Academy  of  tlic  Fine  Arts 
for  the  benefit  of  French  students.  In  the  rear  of  tiie  latter  is  a  beau- 
tiful garden,  containing  several  acres,  planted  with  shrubbery,  and  or- 
jiamented  with  statues.  Its  situation  is  delightful,  and  the  whole  of 
this  group  of  buildings,  with  their  appurtenances,  reflects  credit  upon 


156        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

the  liberalit}'  of  the  French  government.  Numerous  inscriptions  take 
care  to  inform  the  pubhc,  who  was  the  benefactor.  Tlie  top  of  the 
Pincian  Hill  is  laid  out  with  terraced  roads  and  gravel  walks  for  pe- 
destrians, bordered  by  trees,  ornamented  with  an  obelisk,  and  fur- 
nished witli  seats  beneath  the  shade,  for  the  accommodation  of  visit- 
ants. So  much  by  way  of  preface  :  for  as  the  summit  of  this  emi- 
nence commands  a  full  view  of  Rome  and  its  environs,  and  as  it  was 
near  our  lodgings,  we  frequently  resorted  to  it,  as  a  kind  of  observa^ 
tory  for  fixing  the  outlines  of  the  city. 


i 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         loT 

LETTER  LVII. 

SKETCH    OF    ROME VIKW    FROTVT    THK  rAPTTnT.TNE    HTT.T. OFTLINES    OF 

THE  CITV    AND    ENVIRONS ASPECT  OP  THE    SEVEN  HILLS RUINS    OP 

THE  FORUM TRIUMPHAL  ARCHES ANCIENT  TEMPLES COLISEUM. 

April,  1826. 

It  is  a  great  question  with  travellers,  who  go  to  work  systematically 
in  the  business  of  sight-seeing,  in  what  manner  they  can  examine 
Rome  to  the  best  advantage,  whetlier  in  chronological  or  topographi- 
cal order.  Each  plan  has  its  advocates,  and  books  have  been  com- 
])ilcd  in  conformity  with  their  respective  views.  Eustace  and  Forsyth 
have  chosen  to  tread  in  the  footsteps  of  lime,  though  they  frequently 
cross  his  track,  and  are  unable  to  trace  his  obscure  pathway.  Vasi, 
on  the  other  liand,  goes  to  work  by  the  job,  dividing  the  city  into  eight 
districts,  which,  with  a  smattering  of  empiricism,  he  leads  the  travel- 
ler to  believe  may  be  accomplished  in  as  many  days ;  much  in  the 
same  style,  as  certain  oracles  of  the  age  give  out,  that  a  language  may 
be  learned  in  ten,  fifteen,  or  twenty  lessons,  as  may  best  suit  tlio 
convenience  of  the  pupil.  It  is  enough  to  say,  that  the  former  of 
these  modes  of  seeing  Rome  is  so  impracticable,  as  to  border  on  the 
ridiculous.  Every  body  knows,  that  the  modern  city  stands  upon  the 
ruins  of  the  ancient ;  and  the  former  is  so  blended  with  the  latter,  that 
it  is  impossible  to  examine  the  one,  and  shut  your  eyes  upon  the  other. 
Frequently  the  works  of  ages,  by  the  mutilations  and  metamorplioses 
which  the  capital  has  undergone,  are  united  in  the  same  building  ;  and 
uhat  nonsense  would  it  be  to  walk  a  mile  or  two  to  survey  the  site  or 
foundations  of  a  Roman  temple,  when  on  the  next  day,  perhaps,  your 
visit  must  be  repeated,  to  look  at  a  church  built  upon  and  out  of 
the  ruins. 

While  therefore  such  a  project  was  abandoned,  as  in  a  great  mea- 
sure visionary,  we  were  not  willing  on  the  other  hand,  to  enlist  as 
day-labourers  in  the  service  of  Vasi,  and  be  dragg';!  first  porcliance  to 
objects  the  least  interesting,  in  a  word,  as  the  term  of  our  visit  was 
not  restricted  to  eight  days,  and  as  it  was  not  our  intention  to  write 
cither  a  history  of  Rome,  or  compile  a  guide-book,  neither  of  the 
plans  was  in  the  full  extent  adopted.  It  was  our  wish  to  obtain  a  gene- 
ral and  correct  idea  of  the  imperial  city,  as  it  exists  in  all  its  ruinous 
and  chaotic  state  ;  and  with  this  view,  we  selected  the  most  prominent 
and  interesting  objects,  as  great  landmarks,  taking  others,  whether 
ancient  or  modern,  as  they  fell  in  our  way.     My  observations  will  be 


158        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

thrown  together  in  the  manner  they  were  gleaned,  without  much  re- 
gard to  system  ;  and  at  this  moment  I  know  almost  as  little,  what 
course  my  imperfect  sketch  (for  imperfect  it  must  be,)  will  take,  as 
any  one  of  my  readers. 

On  the  morning  after  our  arrival,  we  hastened  to  the  centre  of  at- 
traction, the  Capitol  and  the  Forum,  and  the  visit  has  since  been  daily 
repeated  with  almost  as  much  regularity,  as  Cicero  and  Hortensius  at- 
tended the  courts,  some  two  thousand  years  ago.  Let  us  again  hurry 
thither,  and  without  pausing  at  present  to  look  at  objects  on  our  right  or 
left,  ascend  to  the  top  of  the  comparatively  modern  tower,  which  rises 
to  the  height  of  perhaps  two  hundred  feet,  upon  the  summit  of  the 
Capitoline  Hill.  The  reader  has  already  received  from  my  own  re- 
marks, and  perhaps  from  a  hundred  other  more  correct  sources,  some 
intimations  of  the  great  outhnes  of  the  picture,  which  he  hence  sur- 
veys. He  here  finds  himself  in  the  centre  both  of  the  ancient  and 
modern  city,  as  well  as  of  the  Campagna  di  Roma.  To  the  north 
and  east,  in  the  distance,  the  eye  rests  upon  the  blue  summits  of  the 
Apennines,  sweeping  round  the  plain  like  a  vast  amphitheatre,  from 
Tivoli  to  the  heights  of  Baccano,  embracing  in  the  long  range  the 
sombre  crest  of  Soracte,  and  a  hundred  other  hills,  with  their  tops 
fading  into  the  skies.  Between  these  mountains,  and  Mont  Albano 
heaving  its  woody  summit  above  a  cincture  of  white  hamlets,  towards 
the  south,  an  arm  of  the  Campagna,  resembling  a  strait  of  the  sea, 
opens  in  boundless  perspective,  which,  beyond  the  reach  of  vision,  is 
lost  among  the  hills.  On  the  west  and  southwest,  the  prospect  is 
co-extensive  with  the  sensible  horizon  ;  for  at  the  distance  of  twelve 
or  fifteen  miles,  the  Mediterranean  bathes  the  solitary  shores,  and  so 
similar  is  the  complexion  of  the  two  expanses,  that  it  is  diflicult  to 
distinguish  the  precise  boundary  between  land  and  sea. 

Such  are  the  remote  features  of  this  great  panorama.  The  aspect 
of  the  Campagna  has  already  been  described.  It  is  a  belt  of  utter 
solitude,  twelve  miles  in  breadth  in  the  narrowest  part,  and  completely 
encircles  Rome.  Two  or  three  straggling  churches,  forming  the 
very  outposts  of  the  city,  are  but  a  few  miles  from  the  gates.  Dark 
ruins  are  scattered  over  the  waste  in  shapeless  masses,  fast  sinking 
into  the  grave  of  empire.  On  one  side  are  seen  wrecks  of  tombs, 
which  skirted  the  Appian  Way  ;  on  another  side,  the  spectator  traces 
the  windings  of  the  Tiber  through  its  lonely  borders,  from  the  walls 
of  the  city  to  the  sea.  The  eternal  silence,  which  broods  over  this 
region,  once  rural,  populous  and  gay,  sends  a  chill  to  the  heart  : 

"  Horror  ubiqiie  animos,  simul  ipsa  silentia  terrcnt". 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  150 

But  the  gloomiest  features  in  tlio  picture  have  not  j'et  been  por- 
trajed.  The  high  dark  ramparts,  visible  in  their  whole  circumference 
of  about  sixteen  miles,  enclose  an  area  which  exhibits  a  chaos  of  de- 
solate ruins  and  modern  splendour.  As  the  former  image  predomi- 
nates in  the  mind,  the  latter  by  contrast  only  serves  to  render  it  the 
more  hideous.  More  than  half  the  space  within  the  walls  is  not  oc- 
cupied at  all  by  buildings.  These  waste  places,  once  covered  by 
golden  palaces  and  temples  of  the  gods,  are  now  strewed  with  rub- 
bish, or  converted  into  gardens  and  patches  of  cultivation,  the  soil  of 
which  is  enriched  by  the  dust  of  an  empire.  A  luxuriant  growth  of 
foliage  and  flowers  often  mantles  these  ruins,  exhibiting  the  eternal 
vigour  of  nature,  when  compared  with  the  transient  works  of  art. 

Three  of  the  Seven  Hills  of  Rome,  the  Palatine,  the  Aventine,  and 
Ca;lian,  are  almost  entirely  destitute  of  buildings  of  any  kind.  Of 
the  other  four,  the  Esquiline  is  partially,  and  the  Capitoline,  Viminal, 
and  Quirinal  are  fully  occupied  by  the  modern  city.  They  are  all,  as 
my  readers  probably  need  not  be  told,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Tiber  : 
the  Aventine,  the  Palatine,  and  Capitoline  are  near  the  river — the 
others  are  at  the  distance  of  perhaps  half  a  mile  from  tlie  maro'in. 
None  of  them  have  tiiat  prominence,  wliich  the  traveller  might  ra- 
tionally expect  to  find,  and  which  they  in  fact  once  had.  The  cause 
is  obvious.  While  the  ruins  of  the  city,  piled  stratum  above  stratum, 
have  elevated  its  level  twenty,  thirty,  and  sometimes  even  forty  feet 
above  the  ancient  pavement,  no  addition  has  been  made  to  the  height 
of  the  hills.  On  the  contrary,  a  portion  of  their  summits,  loosened  by 
tillage  and  swept  down  by  rains,  forms  a  part  of  the  heterogeneous 
strata,  on  which  modern  Rome  is  seated. 

The  Aventine  is  one  of  the  largest  and  highest  of  the  group.  It 
rises  boldly  from  the  immediate  bank  of  the  Tiber,  near  the  ancient 
port,  at  the  lower  extremity  of  the  city.  There  is  barely  room  for 
the  road  between  the  margin  of  the  river,  and  the  cliffs,  which  have  an 
air  of  rugged,  stern,  and  sohtary  grandeur.  The  verdant  summit  of 
this  hill,  the  aerial  tomb  of  Remus,  and  where  once  rose  fanes  to  Juno, 
Diana,  Victory,  Liberty,  and  other  divinities,  is  now  as  nmch  the 
haunt  of  birds,*  as  it  was  in  the  days  of  the  soothsayers,  and  old  Her- 
cules might  find  better  pasturage  for  his  cattle,  than  he  did  in  the  ao^e 
of  Cacus.t 


*  The  Aventine  derives  its  name  from  the  word  arcs,  (birds)  by  whicii  it  used 
to  be  much  frequented. 

t  Virgil  lays  the  scene  of  this  fable  on  the  Aventine  Mount,  and  there  is  a  cuve 
half  way  up  the  side,  which  is  still  called  Ihe  Den  of  Caciis.     A  lieimit,  instead 


IGO        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

But  of  all  the  Roman  Hills,  the  Palatine  is  infinitely  the  most  in- 
teresting, both  from  its  associations  and  its  present  picturesque  ap- 
pearance. Here  was  the  cradle  of  empire  ;  here  rose  the  first  hum- 
ble walls  ;  here  was  established  the  Court,  from  the  thatched  cottage 
of  old  Romulus  to  the  Golden  Palace  of  Nero  ;  here  stood  the  shrine 
consecrated  to  Apollo  and  the  Muses  ;*  here  Cicero  lived  and  Horace 
sung !  The  Palatine  mount  is  immediately  under  the  eye  of  the 
spectator,  as  he  stands  upon  the  tower  on  the  Capitoline.  We  have 
rambled  over  it  again  and  again.  It  is  the  very  image  of  desolation. 
"  The  fox  looks  out  at  the  windows,"  and  the  owl  hoots  amidst  the 
ruins  of  its  palaces  and  temples.  Nearly  its  whole  circumference  is 
girt  with  a  series  of  subterranean  baths,  sweeping  round  in  a  dark 
line,  under  the  brow  of  the  hill,  and  opening  into  its  sides,  like  gloomy 
caverns. 

On  the  cliffs,  at  the  south-western  extremity,  stand  all  that  remains 
of  the  Palace  of  the  Ctesars  and  the  splendid  Temple  of  Apollo,  con- 
sisting of  a  few  damp  and  dreary  arches,  still  exhibiting  traces  of  fresco 
ceilings.  Of  the  palace,  which  once  covered  the  whole  hill,  the  com- 
position floor  of  the  terrace  is  in  good  preservation,  bordering  upon 
the  cliff,  where  Nero  used  to  sit  at  his  window,  and  drop  his  handker- 
chief, as  a  signal  for  the  garnes  to  begin,  in  the  Circus  Maximus,t  be- 
low. Of  the  temple,  nothing  save  its  foundations  is  left.  Fragments 
of  its  Corinthian  capitals  and  friezes  of  Parian  marble  are  strewed  un- 
der a  grove  of  ilex  on  the  brow  of  the  hill,  mantled  by  the  matted  grass 
and  the  leaves  of  the  acanthus,  whence  the  order  derives  its  origin. 
The  region  in  the  vicinity  of  these  two  builHings  is  thickly  overgrown 
with  wild  shrubbery,  in  which  persons  are  effectually  concealed,  as 
they  rarnble  along  the  foot-paths.  The  solitude  is  absolutely  appalling. 
Some  memorials  of  Nero's  crimes  are  yet  preserved.  A  bath  is  shown 
in  which  the  veins  of  Seneca  were  pricked  by  the  order  of  the  Empe- 
ror ;  and  by  turning  the  eye  to  the  left,  it  rests  on  the  old  tower,  upon 


of  a  robber,  now  keeps  the  key.     We  made  at  least  half  a  Jozen  attempts  to  find 
him  at  his  little  hut  by  the  side  of  the  road,  but  without  success. 

*  The  classical  reader  need  not  be  told,  that  in  the  Library  of  Augustus,  over 
■which  the  Apollo  of  the  Hills  presided,  the  manuscripts  of  Latin  poets  of  any 
eminence  were  deposited.     Hence  the  allusion  of  Horace : 

"  Scripta  Palatinus  qusecumque  recepit  Apollo." 

I  Between  the  Aventine  and  Palatine  Hills.  The  outlines  are  yet  visibk.  It 
was  large  enough  to  hold  150.,000  spectators. 


LETTERS  FR03f  EUROPE.        Kil 

wliicli  he  is  said  to  have  fiddled,  while  Rome  was  burning.  Mis  Gold- 
en House  extended  from  the  Palace  of  the  Caesars,  to  the  Cailian  and 
Esquiline  Hills,  a  distance  of  half  a  mile  or  more  ! 

The  summit  and  central  part  of  the  Palatine  is  not  so  dreary.  It  is 
occupied  by  an  extensive  garden,  or  rather  vineyard,  belonging  to  a 
Neapolitan  Prince,  and  denominated  the  Orti  Farnesiani.  The  soil 
is  rich,  covered  witli  a  luxuriant  crop  of  artichokes  and  other  vegeta- 
bles, overshadowed  by  the  vine.  In  the  midst  of  the  field,  are  the  re- 
mains of  the  subterranean  baths  of  Livia,  into  which  the  visitant  de- 
scends through  a  tangled  copse,  as  into  the  cave  of  a  Sibyl,  with  a  hag 
for  a  pioneer,  bearing  a  brimstone  torch  to  show  the  trescos.  There 
are  but  two  or  three  modern  buildings*  on  the  whole  Mount,  and  these 
are  in  such  situations,  as  not  to  break  in  upon  its  solitude.  In  a  word, 
it  has  so  far  reverted  to  the  wildness  of  nature,  that  Pales,  the  goddess 
of  Hocks,  to  whom  it  was  originally  consecrated,  and  from  whom  it 
derives  its  name,  might  again  resume  the  crook  and  ascend  lier  sylvan 
throne. t  It  is  a  truth,  which  some  of  my  readers  might  be  inclined  to 
doubt,  that  I  have  repeatedly  reclined  in  the  shade  of  the  ilex,  upon  the 
brow  of  this  hill,  and  looked  down  upon  shepherds  sleeping  upon  the 
grass  ;  while  their  flocks  were  quietly  grazing  in  the  Forum. 

The  Forum,  the  Roman  Forum  ! — It  spreads  at  my  feet.  Could 
any  mortal  recognize  the  place,  once  surrounded  by  splendid  porticos 
and  temples  of  the  gods  ;  where  stood  the  Curia,  the  Comitium,  the 
Tribunal,  and  the  Rostrum  ;  where  the  Commons  applauded  as  Tully 
spoke  !  Like  the  Palatine  Mount  and  the  Capitoline  Hill,  between 
which  it  lies  cradled,  the  centre  of  Roman  power  and  of  Roman  liberty 
is  shorn  of  its  glories,  and  cattle  again  low,  as  they  did  in  the  days  of 
Evander,  where  senates  once  deliberated  and  gave  law  to  the  world  !      , 

■'■'  The  Villa  Spada,  a  Convent,  and  the  English  College,  all  deserted  at  pre- 
sent. 

t  The  lines  of  my  favourite  TibuUus,  descriptive  of  the  rural  charms  of  this  hill, 
in  its  original  state  of  pastoral  simplicity,  are  so  beautiful  that  I  cannot  forbear  an- 
other quotation  in  Latin,  having  no  translation  of  the  poet : 

"  Romulus  seternae  nondum  formaverat  urbis 

Moenia,  consorti  non  habitanda  Remo. 
Sed  tunc  pascebant  herbosa  Palatia  vaccae, 

Et  stabant  humiles  in  Jovis  arce  casac, 
Lacte  madens  illic  suberat  Pan  ilicis  umbrse, 

Et  facta  agresti  lignea  fake  Pales  ; 
Pendebatque  vagi  pastoris  in  arbore  votum 

Garrula  silvestri  fistula  sacra  Deo." 
VOL.  n.  21 


L^ 


]t)3  LETTERS  FROIVI  EUROPE. 

The  Forum  is  now  called  11  Campo  Vaccino — an  appellation  so  mean 
as  scarcely  to  admit  of  a  decent  translation.  But  what  is  the  vulgarity 
of  its  name,  (Anglice  cow-yard,)  compared  with  the  vile  uses  to  which 
it  is  degraded  ?  At  the  time  of  our  first  visit  it  was  covered  with  carts, 
from  which  the  teams  of  oxen  were  unharnessed  and  quietly  ruminating 
as  they  rechned  in  pairs.  Near  one  corner  of  the  slight  and  rude 
wooden  fence,  which  encloses  the  central  portion,  a  cobbler  was  seated 
upon  the  fragment  of  a  Grecian  column,  busy  at  his  work  in  the  open 
air  ;  and  by  his  side,  an  old  woman,  a  descendant  perchance  of  Cor- 
nelia or  Lucretia,  sat  knitting,  thus  furnishing,  like  her  illustrious  an- 
cestors, a  public  example  of  female  industry  and  domestic  virtue  !  On 
other  occasions  I  have  seen,  as  already  mentioned,  some  modern  Co- 
rydon  and  Alexis  tending  their  sheep,  upon  the  small  patches  of  ver- 
dure, which  skirt  the  modern  excavations.  The  bleating  of  flocks  and 
the  tinkling  of  little  bells,  rising  to  the  lonely  brow  of  the  Palatine, 
formed  an  image  in  the  highest  degree  melancholy  and  affecting.  Ob- 
jects even  too  disgusting  for  description,  defile  the  Campo  Vaccino. 
Swarms  of  lizards  literally  cover  the  ground,  and  the  rats  and  mice 
have  become  so  impudent  by  a  long  and  undisputed  possession,  as  to 
sally  forth  from  their  homes  into  open  day,  in  presence  of  the  specta- 
tors, shaking  the  rank  weeds  above  them,  as  they  chase  each  other  in 
their  gambols. 

Can  this  be  the  Forum  ?  Yea  verily  it  is  the  Roman  Forum  ;  for 
beneath  us,  triumphal  arches  and  porticos  and  insulated  columns,  pierc- 
ing strata  of  rubbish  heaped  upon  the  old  pavement  to  the  depth  of 
twenty  or  thirty  feet,  rear  their  Grecian  capitals  and  shattered  corni- 
ces above  the  scene  of  desolation,  coming  like  tell-tale  messengers 
from  the  world  below.  Nearest  the  base  of  the  Capitoline,  are  three 
columns  of  the  temple  of  Jupiter  Tonans,  erected  by  Augustus  as  a 
votive  fane,  for  having  been  preserved  from  a  bolt  of  the  Tiiunderer, 
which  fell  near  his  head.  The  fragment  of  a  beautiful  frieze  bears  the 
sculptured  image  of  the  implements  used  in  the  sacrifice  of  victims — 
the  axe,  the  knife,  and  the  goblet.  At  the  distance  of  a  few  paces, 
stand  eight  splendid  Ionic  pillars,  forming  the  porch  to  the  temple  of 
Concord — that  temple,  in  which  Cicero  convened  the  Senate,  for  the 
suppression  of  the  conspiracy  of  Cataline,  and  where  the  bursts  of  his 
eloquence  overwhelmed  the  traitor,  preserving  for  a  period  the  liber- 
ties of  the  Republic.  The  entablature  of  the  portico  is  nearly  per- 
fect, and  bears  the  simple  yet  impressive  inscription — "  Senatus  popu- 
lusque  Romanus  incendio  consumptum  restituW^ — the  Senate  and  Ro- 
man People  restored  it,  when  consumed  by  flames. 

At  the  base  of  the  Capitoline  Hill,  and  across  the  street,  which  yet 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         1G3 

ascends  to  the  summit,  rises  the  splendid  triumphal  arch  of  the  Em- 
peror Septimius  Severus.  It  was  erected  at  the  beginning  of  the  third 
century,  and  is  nearly  entire,  consisting  of  four  fluted  columns,  of  the 
Corinthian  and  Ionic  orders,  capped  by  a  heavy  architrave  ornamented 
with  a  profusion  of  bas-relief,  and  loaded  on  both  sides  with  long  La- 
tm  inscriptions,  which  few  will  have  the  patience  to  decipher,  out  of 
compliment  to  a  warhke,  but  ambitious  and  merciless  tyrant.*  Even 
the  expenses  of  this  proud  monument  were  probably  wrung  by  oppres- 
sion from  the  Roman  people,  and  contributed  to  the  very  scene  of  de- 
solation in  the  midst  of  which  it  now  rises.  The  pathway  which  the 
flatterers  of  the  imperial  usurper  strewed  with  flowers,  and  which  he 
pursued  in  his  triumphal  ascent  to  the  Capitol,  on  returning  from  his 
conquests  of  the  North  and  East,  is  now  choked  with  hideous  ruins. 
Within  a  few  feet  of  the  arch  stands  a  solitary  column,  erected  at  a 
still  later  period,  in  honour  of  the  Emperor  Phocas,  and  was  once 
surmounted  by  liis  statue  in  bronze. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  Forum,  under  the  brow  of  the  Palatine, 
are  the  sad  remains  of  the  temple  of  Jupiter  Stator,  erected  upon  the 
spot,  where  old  Romulus  rallied  his  legions  against  his  Sabine  inva- 
ders, and  consecrated  in  after  ages  by  Cicero's  pathetic  apostrophe  to 
the  statue  of  the  god  presiding  over  the  shrine.  TJiree  noble  columns 
of  Parian  marble,  crowned  with  a  mutilated  entablature,  forming  as  it 
is  supposed  the  vestibule,  alone  survive  the  general  wreck  of  the  proud 
structure.  In  one  of  our  many  visits,  an  artist  was  observed,  seated 
like  Marius  amidst  ruins,  sketching  the  picturesque  fragments  of  the 
fane. 

All  these  relics  of  buried  splendour,  and  hundreds  of  others  of  less 
note  over  which  the  visitant  stumbles  at  every  step,  are  within  the  pre- 
cincts of  the  ancient  Forum,  which  was  about  eight  hundred  feet  in 
length,  and  five  hundred  in  width.  Excavations  have  been  made  to 
the  Roman  pavement,  by  resurrection  amateurs  of  France  and  Eng- 
land, aided  occasionally  by  the  purse  of  tlic  Pope  ;  and  tremendous 
gulfs  yawn  round  these  columns,  into  which  another  Curtius  and  his 
horse  might  plunge  without  difliculty.  The  Dutchess  of  Devonshire  has 
been  among  the  most  active  and  liberal  patrons,  in  disentcrring  the 
works  of  art.  In  every  instance,  new  discoveries  have  rewarded  the 
labour  and  expense  of  research  ;  and  unrevealed  treasures  doubtless 


*  Among  other  ads  of  meanness  an  J  cruelly,  Severus  suffered  the  dead  body  of 
his  vanquished  rival  to  putrify  before  his  tent,  an<l  then  ordered  it  to  be  tlirown 
into  the  Rhone. 


164        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

yet  remain  to  be  brought  to  light,  though  under  the  present  Pope,  the 
excavations  appear  to  be  suspended. 

From  the  Forum  towards  the  south,  along  the  base  of  the  Palatine 
Mount,  ran  the  Via  Sacra,  (Sacred  Way,)  which  is  now  buried  in 
some  places  to  great  depth,  and  lined  on  both  sides  with  ruins.  Be- 
ginning with  the  extreme  right,  the  first  object  which  arrests  attention, 
js  a  small  round  temple,  once  dedicated  to  Romulus,  and  erected  on 
the  Lupercal,  or  place  where  the  wolf  nursed  her  twin  foundlings. 
The  walls  are  ancient,  but  the  roof  modern.  A  pagan  altar  stands  at 
the  entrance,  bearing  an  inscription  which  states,  that  it  once  smoked 
with  incense  to  false  gods.  The  temple  has  been  changed  into  a 
christian  church,  and  consecrated  to  St.  Stephen,  whose  image  is  sub- 
stituted for  the  she-wolf  and  her  boys,  in  bronze,  now  deposited  in  the 
Museum  at  the  Capitol. 

Farther  on  is  the  triumphal  arch  of  Titus,  standing  by  the  side  of 
the  Sacred  Way,  and  close  to  the  foot  of  the  Palatine.  It  is  by  far  the 
most  interesting  work  of  the  kind  at  Rome.  Despoiled  as  it  has  been 
of  many  of  its  ornaments,  by  pious  plunderers,  from  Constantine 
downward,  it  is  still  a  beautiful  ruin.  It  was  erected  by  order  of  the 
senate,  and  consecrated  to  Titus,  in  honour  of  his  conquest  of  Judea. 
A  personification  of  the  Jordan,  in  the  usual  form  of  a  river-god,  is 
sculptured  upon  the  frieze  ;  and  on  the  interior  of  the  arch  are  por- 
trayed the  sacred  symbols  of  the  Jewish  religion — the  tables  of  the 
law,  the  trumpets  for  proclaiming  the  Jubilee,  and  the  seven  golden 
candlesticks.  The  latter  somewhat  resemble  the  trident  of  Neptune, 
with  the  seven  branches  in  a  direct  Ime.  These  delineations  are  sup- 
posed to  be  accurate,  and  furnish  valuable  illustrations  of  the  Scrip- 
tures, though  they  appear  in  odd  company,  mixed  up  with  bas-relief 
representations  of  the  triumphal  processions  and  apotheosis  of  a  Hea- 
then Emperor.  The  Jews  from  a  national  feeling  rather  creditable  to 
them,  cautiously  avoid  passing  under  this  Arch,  which  calls  to  mind 
the  captivity  of  their  country. 

At  the  junction  of  the  Via  Sacra  and  the  Via  Triumphalis,  (the  lat- 
ter avenue  winding  between  the  Palatine  and  Coclian  Hills,)  rises  the 
Arch  of  Constantine,  more  lofty  and  in  better  preservation  than  either 
that  of  Titus  or  Severus.  In  fact,  the  former  is  indebted,  if  not  to 
tlie  latter,  certainly  to  some  of  the  ancient  buildings  of  Rome,  for  a 
portion  of  its  ornaments.  Trajan's  Arch  was  demolished  and  robbed 
of  its  splendour,  to  enrich  this  proud  pile,  dedicated  to  the  first  Chris- 
tian Emperor,  in  honour  of  his  victory  gained  over  Maxentius,  near 
the  Milvian  Bridge.  Eight  beautiful  columns  of  yellow  antique  adorn 
its  faces,  above  which  are  statues  of  Dacian  Warriors,  and  sculptured 


LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE.  165 

friezes,  all  plundered  from  the  monument  of  his  predecessor.  In  the 
tasteless  jumble  of  these  materials,  it  is  odd  enough  to  see  a  bas-relief 
representing  the  pagan  sacrifice  of  suovctauriUa,  (in  which  a  ewinc, 
sheep,  and  bull,  were  the  triple  victims,)  appropriated  to  an  Emperor, 
who  had  just  seen  an  image  of  the  cross  in  the  sky,  and  wliile  his  brow 
was  yet  reeking  witii  lioly  water  from  the  font  of  St.  John  Lateran. 
But  with  all  his  inconsistencies,  and  witli  all  his  robberies  of  Romey 
to  embellish  his  own  capital,  Constantino  did  some  good  ;  and  though 
he  seems  to  have  changed  his  religion  from  pohcy,  rather  than  a  sin- 
cere conviction,  he  was  instrumental  in  allbrding  protection  to  the  early 
Christians. 

On  tlie  left  side  of  the  Forum  and  of  the  Sacred  Way,  once  stood 
the  temple  of  Saturn,  which  was  the  Treasury  of  the  Roman  Republic. 
It  is  now  utterly  demolished,  and  the  Church  of  St.  Adrian  occupies 
its  site.  The  brazen  gate  has  been  transferred  to  St.  Jolm  Lateran,  the 
mother  church  of  Rome.  In  front  of  tlie  temple,  the  centre  of  the  an- 
cient city,  a  golden  column  was  erected  by  the  order  of  Augustus,  on 
which  the  distances  to  the  respective  provinces  were  marked.  From 
this  point,  great  roads  diverged  like  radii  to  all  parts  of  the  empire. 
There  was  something  grand  in  the  idea,  and  still  grander  in  the  avenues 
themselves,  paved,  as  they  were  with  massive  flags,  at  an  immense  ex- 
pense.     But  there  were  giants  in  those  days. 

In  front  of  the  church  of  St.  Lorenzo,  a  few  yards  from  that  of  St, 
Adrian,  are  ten  Corinthian  columns,  which  once  belonged  to  a  temple 
erected  on  the  same  site,  to  the  memory  of  Antoninus  Pius,  and  the 
Empress  Faustina.  Near  it  rose  the  temple  of  Remus,  the  brazen 
door  and  porphyry  pillars  of  which  are  woven  into  a  little  church,  sub- 
stituted in  its  place.  Its  marble  pavement,  engraven  with  a  plan  of 
Rome  in  the  third  century,  is  now  deposited  in  the  Museum  at  the 
Capitol  ;  but  the  parts  are  in  such  confusion  as  to  form  a  complete 
Chinese  puzzle,  for  the  amusement  of  antiquaries. 

iXe.xt  commences  a  region  of  colossal  ruins,  the  first  of  which  are 
three  enormous  arches,  supposed  to  have  belonged  to  the  temple  of 
Peace,  erected  by  Vespasian  after  the  conquest  of  Judea,  and  filled 
with  the  spoils  of  the  east.  Its  position  seems  to  favour  this  conjec- 
ture, as  it  stands  opposite  the  Arch  of  Titus,  on  the  Via  Sacra.  It  is 
said  to  have  been  three  hundred  feet  long,  and  two  hundred  feet  wide  ; 
divided  into  three  aisles  by  stupendous  columns  ;  and  the  vaulted  ceil- 
ing covered  with  gilt  bronze.  One  of  its  fluted  Corinthian  pillars,  of 
white  marble,  now  standing  before  the  church  of  St.  Maria  Maggiore 
crowned  by  a  statue  of  the  Virgin,  measures  sixteen  feet  in  circum- 
ference   and  forty-eight  feet  in  height: — Ex  pede  Herculem!     Its 


166        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

interior  was  filled  with  Grecian  statues,  and  with  the  treasures  of  van- 
quished nations.  Tradition  says,  that  the  edifice  with  all  its  wealth 
and  splendour  was  consumed  by  a  flame  bursting  out  beneath  it  from 
the  earth.  But  the  truth  is,  little  seems  to  be  known  of  its  history  ; 
and  antiquaries  are  yet  disputing  about  the  age,  in  which  it  was  con- 
structed. 

Seated  on  an  eminence,  at  the  distance  of  a  few  yards,  are  the  remains 
of  the  double  temple  of  Venus  and  Rome,  probably  intended  to  illus- 
trate the  fable,  that  ^neas,  the  founder  of  the  Roman  empire,  was, 
as  Virgil  makes  him,  the  son  of  a  goddess.  Who  knows  but  this 
shrine,  embodying  the  traditions  of  the  day,  may  have  suggested  the  first 
idea  of  the  ^neid,  as  the  great  epic  poet,  green  from  Mantua,  was  stroll- 
ing along  the  Via  Sacra,  on  his  return  from  the  Forum  to  his  lodgings 
on  the  Esquiline  Hill  ?  The  foundations  and  a  part  of  the  walls  of 
the  two-fronted  temple  yet  remain  ;  and  enormous  fragments  of  pil- 
lars from  its  porticos  actually  block  up  the  road. 

But,  the  Coliseum  is  in  sight,  and  what  objects  can  appear  large  in 
the  vicinity  of  this  stupendous  pile,  which  rises  like  a  mountain  at 
the  termination  of  the  Sacred  Way !  Its  location  between  three  of  the 
Hills  of  Rome,  and  in  the  midst  of  Triumphal  Arches,  is  as  grand  as  its 
proportions  are  colossal.  I  have  seen  this  ruin  at  all  hours  of  the  day 
and  night ;  for  there  is  a  prescribed  routine  of  fashionable  visits, 
through  which  every  traveller  is  obliged  to  go,  under  the  penalty  of 
being  denounced  as  heretical  in  taste  and  sentiment.  He  must  climb 
the  Palatine,  and  see  the  sun  go  down,  the  west  redden,  and  twihght 
fade  in  mellow  tints  upon  the  walls.  He  must  see  the  moon  rise,  and 
produce  an  image  of  her  own  orb,  by  bathing  one  half  of  this  little 
world  in  light,  while  the  other  is  lost  in  darkness.  He  must  see  her 
softened  beams  peer  through  the  ragged  loopholes  of  time,  curtained 
with  festoons  of  ivy  and  the  wild  shrubbery  growing  upon  the  ramparts. 
He  must  see  the  bat  flit,  and  hear  the  owl  rustle  and  hoot  in  the  de- 
solate arches.  The  foot-fall  of  the  sentinel  must  respond  to  the  echo 
of  his  own,  as  he  paces  at  midnight  through  the  gloomy  galleries. 

Thus  much  is  an  indispensable  requisition.  But  he  is  at  liberty  to 
go  farther.  He  may  recal  the  day,  when  more  than  a  hundred  thou- 
sand spectators,  (equal  to  nearly  the  whole  population  of  the  modern 
city,)  were  here  assembled,  arrayed  in  all  the  splendour  of  Roman 
costume,  and  ranged  in  five  concentric  tiers  of  seats  rising  one  above 
another,  from  the  podium  appropriated  to  the  Emperor,  the  Senate, 
and  the  Vestal  Virgins,  to  the  gallery  at  the  height  of  a  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  from  the  ground.  He  may  imagine  what  thunders  of  applause 
rent  the  air,  as  the  vomitories  poured  forth,  into  an  arena  three  hun- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         167 

fired  leet  long  and  two  hundred  feet  wide,  tlie  wild  beasts*  of  the 
African,  Parthian,  and  Dalmatian  forests,  intermingled  with  gladiators 
accoutred  for  the  fight ;  or  when  the  scene  changed,  and  the  monsters 
of  the  deep  gamboled  in  their  own  element,  or  brazen-headed  gallies 
met  in  naval  combat.  He  may  then  cast  his  eye  over  that  arena,  and 
see  a  throng  of  devotees  now  kneeling  upon  the  green  sod,  before  the 
circle  of  little  shrines  rising  round  its  borders  :  he  may  watch  the 
multitude,  issuing  through  the  gate  leading  to  the  Sacred  Way,  in 
long  procession  under  the  banners  of  the  cross,  while  the  vesper  hymn 
to  the  Virgin,  chanted  by  a  thousand  voices,  dies  in  mournful  cadence 
amidst  the  ruined  porticos. 

I  have  complied  to  the  letter  with  all  these  requisitions,  and  if  they 
have  failed  to  inspire  me  with  that  enthusiasm,  which  some  others  have 
felt,  tiie  fault  does  not  arise  from  negligence.  To  deny  that  the  Coli- 
seum is  interesting  would  be  folly  ;  but  that  it  is  paramount  in  interest 
among  the  ruins  of  Rome,  I  am  not  prepared  to  acknowledge.  It  is 
not  associated  with  a  single  name  or  a  single  event,  for  which  the 
visitant  cares  a  straw.  It  was  erected  by  Vespasian,  and  very  pro- 
perly dedicated  to  Nero,  the  very  prince  of  tyrants,  whose  colossal 
statue,  125  feet  in  height,  is  said  to  have  originally  presided  over  the 
games.  Hence  the  name  of  Coliseum.  All  its  amusements  were 
those  of  vulgar  and  even  barbarous  curiosity.  No  Roscius,  no  Gar- 
rick — neither  the  dramatic  nor  the  cornic  Muse,  has  thrown  a  charm 
over  its  scenes.  In  character,  its  arena  was  but  little  elevated  above 
a  slaughter-house,  which  a  modern  spectator  would  scarcely  attend 
were  it  possible,  and  which  he  does  not  care  to  revive  in  recollection. 

In  point  of  architecture,  the  Coliseum  is  also  less  interesting  than 
some  other  ancient  edifices  at  Rome.  It  is  considered  as  a  hurried 
and  unfinished  structure.  After  all  these  deductions,  the  reader  may 
ask,  in  what  does  its  interest  consist  ?  Chiefly  in  its  colossal  propor- 
tions, its  massive  materials,  and  its  miraculous  preservation,  through 
all  the  wars,  convulsions,  and  dilapidations,  with  which  Rome  has 
been  scourged  for  eighteen  centuries.  The  ravages  of  man  have  been, 
greater  than  those  of  time  ;  and  although  a  considerable  part  of  the 
modern  city  has  been  built  out  of  its  ruins,  the  pillaged  masses  are 
scarcely  missed  by  the  eye,  and  the  stupendous  pile  appears  nearly 


.  *  Five  thousand  wild  beasts  were  slaughtered  for  the  amusement  of  a  Roman 
audience  on  the  ni<jht  the  amphitheatre  was  first  opened.  Human  victims  with- 
out number,  consisting  of  captives,  slaves,  early  christians,  and  volunteer  gladia- 
tors have  bled  upon  the  arena,  which  was  so  constructed  as  readily  to  imbibe  the 
torrents  of  blood.     The  lions'  den  of  Daniel  was  a  paradise  to  this. 


168        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

entire.  It  is  about  seventeen  hundred  feet  in  circumference,  of  an 
oval  form,  and  four  stories  high,  of  which  the  first  is  of  the  Doric,  the 
second  of  the  Ionic,  and  the  other  two  of  the  Corinthian  order.  An 
awning  was  originally  stretched  across  the  top,  to  shield  the  audience 
from  sun  and  rain.  Its  walls,  consisting  of  open  porticos  in  the  three 
lower  stories,  and  enriched  with  triple  ranges  of  pillars,  are  construct- 
ed of  immense  blocks  of  Travertine  marble,  compactly  adjusted  with- 
out cement,  and  originally  secured  by  iron  clamps,  which  have  nearly 
all  been  pilfered  by  barbarians.  The  complexion  of  the  material  is  of 
a  rich  reddish-brown,  exquisitely  mellowed  by  time.  The  praise- 
worthy measures  which  the  Pope  and  his  subjects  have  taken,  and  are 
now  taking,  to  prop,  secure,  and  preserve  the  time-worn  fabric,  evince 
a  belief  in  the  oracular  prediction  of  the  poet,  that 

"While  stands  the  Coliseum,  Rome  shall  stand  ; 
When  falls  the  Coliseum,  Rome  shall  fallj 
And  when  Rome  falls— the  world." 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        169 

LETTER  LVIII. 

ROME  CONTIXUED FORV>I  OF  TRAJAN PANTHEON TOMB  OF  RAPHAEL 

■ CAMPUS  JIARTIUS MAUSOLEUM  OF  AUGUSTUS BANKS  OF  THE  TIBER 

BRIDGES — CASTLE  OF  ST.  ANGELO—ISLAND  OF  JESCULAPIUS — CLOACA 

MAXIMA TEMPLE  OF  VESTA PORT  AT  RIP  A  GRANDE. 

April,  182G. 

The  ruins  which  liavc  been  described  with  as  much  conciseness  as 
possible  in  the  preceding  letter,  arc  all  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Forum, 
and  in  full  view  from  the  tower  on  the  Capitoline  Hill.  As  we  are 
not  like  the  ancient  augurs  obliged  always  to  look  towards  one  point 
of  the  compass,  let  us  shift  our  position,  and  turn  our  faces  northward, 
for  the  purpose  of  settling  the  localities  of  the  city.  On  the  right, 
the  column  of  Trajan  directs  the  eye  of  the  traveller  to  the  Forum 
of  the  same  name,  which  is  said  to  have  surpassed  even  the  Roman 
Forum  in  splendour.  A  triumphal  arch  led  into  the  area,  which  was 
surrounded  with  porticos  and  temples,  filled  with  statues.  It  has 
shared  the  same  fate  with  its  more  celebrated  rival  already  described, 
having  been  buried  with  all  its  ornaments  to  the  depth  often  or  twelve 
feet.  About  one  half  of  it  has  been  disinterred,  and  the  old  pavement 
now  laid  bare,  is  strewed  with  fragments  of  pillars  and  beautiful  speci- 
mens of  the  arts.  The  other  half  remains  unexplored,  and  two  large 
churches  standing  upon  the  ground  will  probably  prevent  future  exca- 
vations. Trajan's  column  stood  in  the  centre  of  the  Forum.  It  is 
ten  feet  in  diameter  and  a  hundred  and  thirty  high,  composed  of  thirty- 
four  blocks  of  marble,  fastened  together  by  clamps.  The  shaft  is 
embossed  with  bas-relief  representations  of  the  Dacian  wars,  over 
which  a  bronze  statue  of  St.  Peter,  poised  upon  the  top,  oddly  pre- 
sides. 

Not  far  hence  arc  the  Forums  of  Nerva  and  Domitian,  both  in  utter 
ruin.  Four  or  five  Corinthian  pillars,  of  Parian  marble,  exquisitely 
wrought,  are  the  sole  vestiges.  Farther  to  the  left  rises  the  solitary 
pillar  of  Antonine,  similar  in  materials,  dimensions,  and  embellish- 
ments to  that  of  Trajan.  It  was  once  shattered  by  lightning,  and  re- 
paired by  the  Pope,  who  mounted  a  bronze  statue  of  St.  Paul  upon 
the  summit.  The  two  saints  are  almost  within  speaking  distance,  ele- 
vated above  the  battlements  of  the  city,  and  serving  as  beacons  in 
traversing  its  obscure  streets. 

Still  farther  to  the  left,  and  in  one  of  the  most  populous  districts  of  the 
modern  city,  the  Pantheon  lifts  its  beautiful  rotunda  ^ove  the  meaner 

VOL.  n.  22 


170        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

buildings,  by  uliich  it  is  surrounded.  It  fronts  one  of  the  public  areas, 
ornamented  as  usual  with  an  Egyptian  obelisk  and  a  copious  fountain. 
This  temple,  which  is  justly  ranked  among  the  most  celebrated  and 
interesting  monuments  of  Koman  taste,  was  built  by  Agrippa,  the  son- 
in-law  of  Augustus,  and  designed  as  a  repository  of  the  statues  of  all 
the  gods,  as  its  name  imports.  The  porch,  seventy  feet  in  length  and 
forty  in  width,  elevated  at  present  only  two  steps  above  the  Piazza,  is 
supported  by  sixteen  Corinthian  pillars,  forty  iect  in  height,  and  five  in 
diameter,  the  shafts  of  which  are  of  red  oriental  granite,  and  the  capi- 
tals of  white  marble.  On  either  side  of  the  door  is  a  large  niche — 
that  on  the  right,  once  contained  a  statue  of  Augustus,  and  the  other, 
the  statue  of  Agrippa.  The  bronze  doors  were  carried  oft*  as  trophies 
by  Genseric,  and  buried  for  ever  in  the  depths  of  the  Mediterranean. 

The  temple  itself  is  a  magnificent  rotunda,  a  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
in  diameter,  and  nearly  the  same  in  height,  v.'ith  a  wide  aperture  at 
top,  through  which  the  bright  skies  of  Italy  shed  a  cheerful  light,  and 
give  to  the  interior  a  charming  eflTect.  Originally  the  outside  was  co- 
vered with  gilt  bronze,  which  Pope  Urban  VIII.  melted  into  cannon  for 
the  Castle  of  St.  Angclo,  and  into  ornaments  for  the  shrine  of  St. 
Peter,  furnishing  just  grounds  for  the  satirical  pun,  that  the  Barharini 
(the  family  name  of  his  Holiness)  had  pillaged  what  the  harharians  had 
spared.  The  inner  walls  are  encrusted  with  the  richest  marbles,  and 
the  pavement  is  of  porphyry  blended  with  yellow  antique.  Two  ran- 
ges of  niches  extend  quite  round  the  temple — the  upper  one  for  the 
celestial,  the  lower  for  the  terrestrial,  and  the  floor  for  the  infernal 
deities  ;  while  Jove  with  his  group  of  greater  gods,  occupying  the  tri- 
bune or  alcove  opposite  the  door,  presided  over  the  whole.  Among 
the  latter,  at  the  right  hand  of  Jupiter  himself,  Julius  Caesar  was  pla- 
ced— an  extravagant  and  impious  compliment,  which  Augustus  had 
the  good  sense  to  decline. 

By  the  exercise  of  plenary  indulgence,  the  Pantheon  has  been  cleans- 
ed of  all  its  heathenish  impurities,  and  converted  into  one  of  the  thou- 
sand churches  at  Rome.  Half  a  dozen  shrines,  more  splendid  than 
the  idols  of  antiquity  ever  found,  rise  round  the  walls,  enriched  with 
statues  and  pictures.  Among  the  former,  is  a  Vestal  in  a  sitting  pos- 
ture, with  a  child  by  her  side.  She  was  found,  with  many  other  works 
of  art,  amidst  the  rubbish  of  the  temple,  and  in  the  general  conver- 
sion was  christened  St.  Anna,  receiving  at  the  same  time  the  append- 
age of  a  bambino^  to  show  that  she  had  ceased  to  belong  to  the  ancient 
sisterhood.  Suspended  at  the  side  of  one  of  the  altars,  are  great  num- 
bers of  votive  tablets,  a  dozen  of  which  exhibit  rude  drawings  of  sti- 
lettos and  pistols,  making  the  bloody  weapons  still  more  hideous,  and 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  171 

evincing  that  assassinations  arc  ranked  among  the  common  accidents 
of  life — by  no  means  a  comfortable  idea  to  a  traveller,  who  has  not 
full  faith  in  the  miraculous  intervention  of  a  saint,  to  rescue  him  from 
the  hands  of  banditti.  During  one  of  our  visits  to  this  beautiful  tem- 
ple, two  female  pilgrims  came  in,  and  knelt  on  the  splendid  mosaic 
before  one  of  the  shrines.  They  were  clad  in  black  robes,  hoods  and 
hats  decorated  with  shells,  and  each  bearing  a  long  staff.  One  of 
them  was  recognized  as  the  same  we  had  passed  on  the  road,  in  climb- 
ing the  heights  of  Monte  Somma.  She  was  probably  journeying  from 
the  shrine  of  Loretto  to  Rome. 

But  the  Pantheon  has  some  associations  of  a  more  elevated  charac- 
ter, than  such  gross  superstition  can  impart.  Here  were  the  tombs  of 
many  of  the  most  distinguished  men  of  modern  Rome,  most  of  which 
have  been  removed,  for  what  reason  I  know  not.  Those  of  Annibal 
Caracci  and  Raphael  are  still  left,  consisting  of  plain  tablets  on  the 
wall,  by  the  side  of  one  of  the  altars.  The  latter  died  in  April,  1520, 
at  the  age  of  37.  His  epitaph  is  brief,  comprised  in  the  two  following 
lines  : 

"Ille  hie  est  Raphael,  tiimiit,  quo  sospitc,  vinci, 
Rerum  magna  parens,  et  morientc,  mori." 

which  may  be  thus  inelegantly  translated  : — "  Here  Ues  that  Raphael, 
during  whose  hfe  nature  feared  a  rival,  and  at  his  death,  that  she  also 
might  expire."  If  any  name  could  justify  such  hyperbole,  it  is  that 
of  an  artist,  who  in  his  brief  and  brilliant  career,  in  an  age  deemed 
by  us  comparatively  barbarous,  filled  the  galleries  of  Italy  with  pic- 
tures, which  it  may  be  said  with  truth  nothing  but  the  hand  of  nature 
lierself  can  surpass.  On  the  tablet  below  is  another  inscription,  less 
extravagant  in  idea,  and  more  classically  expressed — "  Cujus  spirantes 
prope  imagines" — "  whose  images  almost  breathe" — a  compliment  as 
just,  as  it  is  poetical. 

The  eye  searches  in  vain  for  the  precise  limits  of  the  old  Campus 
Martins,  which  extended  from  the  bases  of  the  Capitoline,  Quirinal, 
and  Tincian  Hills,  to  the  left  bank  of  the  Tiber,  and  is  now  covered  by 
.one  of  the  most  populous  districts  of  the  modern  city.  It  is  intersect- 
ed by  the  Corso,  and  we  sleep  every  night  on  the  borders  of  the  Martial 
Field,  to  dream  over  the  scenes  of  other  ages.  Near  its  northern  and 
ancient  boundary,  (for  in  the  time  of  Nero  it  was  extended  to  the  Mil- 
vian  Bridge,)  stands  the  mausoleum  of  Augustus  and  his  family.  It 
is  an  obtruncated  Rotunda,  perhaps  a  hundred  feet  in  diameter,  and 
lias  actually  been  converted  into  an  amphitheatre,  for  the  exhibition 
of  bull-baiting,  and  fire-works.     It  is  interesting  merely  from  its  asso- 


172        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

ciations,  and  remarkable  for  a  very  perfect  echo  and  whispering  galle- 
ry— a  curiosity  which  seems  to  have  escaped  the  indefatigable  research- 
es of  book-makers.  In  one  of  my  several  visits,  I  repeated  the  pathetic 
elegy  of  Virgil  on  the  young  Marcellus,*  which  melted  Octavia  into 
tears  and  made  the  fortune  of  the  poet.  Echo  seemed  enamoured  of 
the  verse,  and  sent  back,  in  garrulous  reverberations  from  her  profaned 
retreat,  the  name  of  the  Roman  boy,  whose  ashes  sleep  below. 

But  we  must  not  omit  the  apochryphal  hills  of  Mons  Marius,  the 
Vaticanus,  and  the  old  Janiculum,  which  range  along  the  right  bank 
of  the  Tiber  from  the  north-east  to  the  south-west,  in  the  order  they 
are  mentioned,  adding  much  to  the  bold  outlines  of  the  city.  The  first 
of  these  eminences  is  a  solitude,  with  the  exception  of  a  white  villa  or 
two  seated  upon  its  brow.  On  the  summit  of  the  second,  stands  its 
name-sake,  the  Vatican,  consisting  of  that  miracle  of  architecture,  the 
church  of  St.  Peter,  and  the  monstrous  Palace  of  the  Popes,  covering 
more  acres  than  the  corse  of  the  giant  Tityus,  and  expelling  from  its 
gloomy  dominions  every  trace  of  those  sylvan  charms,  which  once 
responded  in  echoes  to  the  lyric  Muse.j  But  let  us  not  pause  at  pre- 
sent to  look  even  at  the  peerless  dome,  which  may  always  be  regarded 
as  the  most  elevated  and  conspicuous  object,  within  the  circumference 
of  the  Campagna  di  Roma.  My  readers  will  have  enough  of  it  here- 
after. The  Janiculum  is  a  large  and  bold  hill,  thinly  peopled,  covered 
with  extensive,  woody  gardens,  and  studded  with  palaces. 

It  may  be  as  well  to  mention  here  by  way  of  episode,  and  for  the 
sake  of  disposing  of  other  localities  with  all  convenient  despatch,  that 
I  have  twice  navigated  the  channel  of  the  Tiber — the  first  time  as  far 
as  the  bridge  of  St.  Angclo,  and  a  second  time  from  the  Ripetta  to 
Ripa  Grande,  the  whole  extent  of  the  city.  The  current  within  these 
limits  is  contracted  to  the  width  of  about  two  hundred  feet,  (little  more 
than  half  its  width  at  the  Milvian  Bridge,)  and  so  rapid  as  to  become 
turbulent,  resembling  both  in  the  complexion  of  its  waters  and  its 
whirlpools  an  American  river  during  the  floods  of  spring.  So  strong 
were  its  boilings  and  vortices,  as  sensibly  to  aflect  our  row-boat,  of  the 
ordinary  size,  which  at   some  points  became  almost  unmanageable. 

*  "  Heu  Diiserande  puer !  si  qua  fata  aspera  rumpas, 

Tu  Marcellus  eris.     Manibus  date  lilia  pienis : 

Purpureos  spargain  flores,  animamque  nepotis 

His  saltern  accumulein  donis,  et  fungar  inani 

Munere," 
t "  simul  et  jocosa 

Ptedderetlaudes  tibi  Vaticani 
Montis  imaw." 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  1:3 

There  cannot  be  the  least  doubt,  that  the  bed  of  the  river,  besides  beino- 
confined  to  half  its  breadth,  by  entrenching  upon  its  shores,  has  been 
as  much  elevated  and  choked  by  ruins,  as  the  other  parts  of  the  city, 
and  even  more  ;  for  the  armies  of  barbarous  invaders  were  in  the  habit 
of  wantonly  throwing  into  the  Tiber  such  spoils  of  the  arts,  as  they 
were  unable  to  bear  away.  For  myself,  I  could  not  but  fancy,  that 
every  rebound  of  the  water  from  the  bottom  to  the  surface  was  sent  up 
by  some  statue  or  fragment  of  a  colunm — perhaps  by  the  colossal  head 
of  a  Hercules,  or  the  torso  of  a  Neptune.  Should  the  course  of  the 
river  ever  be  changed  and  its  bed  examined,  a  project  by  no  rtieans  im- 
practicable, treasures  of  inestimable  value  would  no  doubt  be  brought 
to  light. 

The  shores  of  the  Tiber  have  no  quays.  From  the  Ripetta,  where 
there  is  a  little  port  and  a  ferry,  to  the  bridge  of  St.  Angclo,  the  right 
bank  called  Tratevere,  (corresponding  with  the  Transtiberimof  the  Ro- 
mans,) is  woody,  rural,  and  picturesque  ;  but  all  the  rest  of  the  way, 
on  both  sides,  with  few  exceptions,  the  houses  rise  out  of  the  water, 
leaving  no  passage  along  the  margin.  'I'his  arrangement  brino-g  the 
rear  of  the  buildings  to  the  river,  and  as  they  are  uniformly  shattered, 
gloomy,  and  dirty,  the  borders  appear  bleak  and  ruinous.  St.  Angelo 
(the  ancient  Pons  ^Elius)  is  the  upper  bridge  within  the  walls  of  the 
city.  It  was  originally  built  by  the  Emperor  Adrian,  and  repaired  by 
Pope  Clement  IX.  who  added  the  high  balustrades  and  ranges  of  sta- 
tues, which  give  it  rather  an  imposing  appearance.  As  it  is  the  great 
thoroughfare  to  St.  Peter's,  and  as  perhaps  one  third  of  the  population 
of  the  city  is  beyond  the  river,  the  passage  is  constantly  crowded. 

Close  to  the  northern  end  of  the  bridge,  and  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Tiber,  is  the  tomb  of  Adrian,  or  the  castle  of  St.  Angelo.  It  is  an 
enormous  round  tower,  seated  upon  an  eminence,  two  stories  high, 
and  crowned  with  a  bronze  angel  volant^  which  forms  a  conspicuous 
object  at  a  distance.  Tiiis  aerial  spirit  is  said  to  be  intended  for  the 
archangel  Michael,  whom  St.  Gregory  saw  in  a  vision,  and  was  admo- 
nished that  a  pestilence,  then  raging  in  the  city,  should  be  stayed.  St. 
Angelo  has  from  time  immemorial  been  the  Citadel  of  Rome,  on  the 
possession  of  which  hung  the  fate  of  the  city.  It  has  been  taken  and 
retaken  perhaps  a  thousand  times,  notwithstanding  the  flaming  sword 
of  its  guardian.  The  interior  contains  nothing  worth  seeing,  if  the 
Pope  had  the  courtesy  to  admit  strangers.  In  the  conversion  of  a 
tomb  into  a  castle,  the  dust  of  Adrian  seems  to  have  been  entirely  for- 
gotten. 

Just  below  St.  Angelo,  the  Tiber  strikes  against  the  basin  of  Mount 
Janiculum,  and  thence  makes  a  bold  sweep  to  the  left,  passing  under 


V 


174         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

the  Ponte  Sisto,  repaired  by  Pope  Sixtus  V.  but  remarkable  neither 
for  its  beauty  nor  its  associations.  An  extended  terrace  and  the  Far- 
nese  gardens,  on  the  right  bank,  furnish  a  temporary  rehef  to  the  eye. 
The  Tiber  is  here  divided  into  two  nearly  equal  branches  by  the  small 
island  of  Jilsculapius,  connected  with  tlie  shores  by  bridges,  (the  Pons 
Fabricius  and  the  Pons  Cestius,)  and  thickly  covered  with  old  build- 
ings. The  nucleus  of  this  island  is  said  to  have  been  formed  of  sheaves 
of  grain,  which  Tarquin  the  Proud  had  reaped  on  the  Campus  Martins,' 
and  which  the  Roman  people  threw  into  the  river,  contending  that  it 
was  unlawful  to  eat  bread  that  grew  on  a  plain  dedicated  to  the  tute- 
lary god  of  the  city.  On  the  lower  extremity  of  the  island  stood  the  tem- 
ple of  J^iSculapius,  v.ow  the  church  and  convent  of  St.  Bartholomew. 
The  story  of  this  temple  is  briefly  as  follows  :  during  a  pestilence  at 
Rome,  the  Sibylline  brooks  enjoined  the  necessity  of  sending  to  Epi- 
daurus  to  the  god  of  medicine.  The  serpent,  which  under  the  name 
of  iEsculapius  was  brought  home  in  the  ship  with  the  embassy,  swam 
ashore  to  this  spot  where  the  shrine  was  erected.  Traces  of  the  vessel 
and  of  the  emblematic  serpent  are  still  visible  on  the  foundations  of  the 
edifice.  But  we  derived  more  pleasure  from  the  httle  orange  grove 
planted  round  the  cloisters  of  the  Convent,  than  from  the  obscure  frag- 
ments of  the  temple. 

A  little  below  the  island  of  iEsculapius  are  the  ruins  of  the  old  Pons 
Palatinus,  now  very  appropriately  denominated  the  Ponte  Rotto,  or 
broken  bridge.  Half  of  it  was  swept  away  by  the  floods  of  the  Tiber, 
in  the  16th  century,  and  the  remaining  part  is  yet  standing,  extending 
out  from  the  foot  of  Mount  Janiculum,  and  with  its  rotary  fish-nets 
always  in  motion,*  forming  a  dreary  but  picturesque  object.  On  the 
left  bank,  within  a  few  rods  of  this  bridge,  a  group  of  interesting  re- 
mains attract  the  attention  of  the  traveller.  The'  first  is  the  Cloaca 
Maxima,  constructed  in  the  time  of  the  elder  Tarquin.  It  is  a  stu- 
pendous arch,  sixteen  feet  wide  and  thirty  in  height.  At  the  time  of 
our  several  visits,  only  about  four  or  five  feet  of  it  were  above  the  level 
of  the  water,  where  it  disgorges  its  accumulated  filth  into  the  Tiber. 
Some  fifty  yards  from  its  mouth,  a  section  of  it  has  been  laid  open, 
where  its  construction  may  be  examined,  though  it  is  filled  with  mud 


*  The  modern  Romans  fish  by  water.  Their  scoop-nets  are  converted  into  the 
floats  of  a  large  wheel,  resembling  the  arms  of  a  wind-mill,  which  are  kept  in 
motion  by  the  current  of  the  Tiber,  while  the  fishermen  look  on,  or  sleep  in  the 
Eun.  If  a  straggler  happens  to  be  caught  in  the  toils,  the  wheel  is  thrown  out  of 
gear,  and  the  net  emptied  of  its  contents.  Fishing  in  this  way  seems  to  be  the 
most  indolent  of  all  employments. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         175 

as  high  as  the  turning  of  the  arch.  It  is  built  of  tremendous  blocks  of 
stone  laid  without  cement.  The  masonry  is  coarse  but  substantial, 
hke  the  character  of  the  old  Romans  in  the  age,  when  its  eternal  foun- 
dations were  planted.  A  stream  sufTicienlly  large  to  turn  a  paper- 
mill  gurgles  through  the  obstructed  passage,  and  at  this  point  is  join- 
ed by  the  silver  waters  of  the  Argentaria,  a  copious  founlam  coming  in 
from  the  direction  of  the  Aventine,  at  which  tradition  says  the  steeds 
of  Castor  and  Pollux  once  drank.  The  Emperor  of  Austria,  in  his 
late  visit  to  Rome,  alsu  took  a  sip.  Indeed  tlie  crystal  stream,  con- 
trasted with  the  impurities  in  which  it  is  soon  lost,  offers  many  temp- 
tations to  the  spectator. 

In  the  vicinity  of  this  opening  in  the  Cloaca  Maxima,  are  the  re- 
mains of  the  four-fronted  Arch  of  Janus,  constructed  of  huge  blocks 
of  Greek  marble,  in  rather  a  rude  state,  and  supposed  to  have  been  a 
part  of  an  Exchange,  or  Market,  several  of  which  were  in  this  (juar- 
ter,  between  the  Forum  and  the  Tiber.  The  small  triumphal  arch  of 
Severus,  at  the  distance  of  a  few  paces,  resembles  the  one  already  de- 
scribed, erected  in  honour  of  the  same  Emperor.  Returning  to  the 
bank  of  the  river,  the  visitant  finds,  near  the  end  of  the  Ponte  Rotto, 
the  ruins  of  the  temple  of  Fortuna  Virilis,  consisting  of  several  fluted 
Ionic  pillars  and  a  cornice,  now  woven  into  a  little  church.  Here 
also  is  the  house  in  which  Pontius  Pilate  is  said  to  have  lived,  before 
his  departure  for  transalpine  Gaul.  But  this  must  be  a  hoax,  as  the 
building  is  comparatively  modern.  The  cicerone,  however,  reckons  it 
as  one  of  his  strong  points.  Not  far  hence  are  Hkewise  the  fragments 
of  the  temple  of  Modesty,  incorporated  into  a  modern  church,  one  of 
whose  officers  took  us  into  the  gallery,  to  see  the  capitals  of  ancient 
pillars.  The  shrine  is  as  rich  as  ever,  exhibiting  its  mosaic  pavement, 
composed  of  porphyry  and  other  costly  materials.  A  colossal  stone 
mask,  four  or  five  feet  in  diameter,  and  supposed  to  have  belonged  to 
a  fountain,  is  deposited  in  the  vestibule.  Tradition  says  that  its  mar- 
ble lips  once  uttered  oracles,  and  it  is  hence  denominated  the  Mouth  of 
IVuth,  (Bocca  della  Verita.) 

Pursuing  our  course  down  the  Tiber,  twenty  rods  below  the  Cloaca 
Maxima,  we  found  the  temple  of  Vesta,  a  beautiful  edifice  nearly  en- 
tire. It  is  a  small  Rotunda,  one  story  high,  with  a  dome  like  the  Pan- 
theon, (though  not  open  at  top,)  aiul  surrounded  with  a  colonnade  con- 
sisting of  nineteen  Corinthian  Pillars  of  Parian  marble,  exquisitely 
finished.  The  number  of  columns  was  originally  twenty  ;  but  some 
barbarian  has  cut  away  one  of  them,  which  was  probably  tumbled  into 
the  river.  This  temple,  like  all  its  fellows,  has  been  converted  into  a 
chapel,  and  the  undying  taper  at  the  altar  is  now  substituted  in  place  of 


176         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

the  eternal  fire  of  the  Vestals,  the  custom  of  keeping  alive  the  holy 
flame  probably  having  a  common  origin.  The  position  of  the  edifice 
corresponds  exactly  with  the  temple  of  Vesta,  described  in  the  graphic 
lines  of  Horace  ;*  and  the  poet  and  his  subject  in  this  instance  furnish 
a  mutual  commentary  on  each  other. 

A  short  distance  below  was  the  Pons  Sublicius,  the  first  bridge  ever 
thrown  across  the  Tiber,  It  was  built  of  wood  by  Ancus  Martins,  to 
connect  Mount  Janiculum  with  the  city,  and  was  soon  immortalized 
by  the  well  known  feats  of  Horatius  Codes,  in  resisting  the  passage  of 
Porsenna.  The  ruins  are  still  seen,  rising  in  dark  masses  just  above 
the  level  of  the  water.  It  should  have  been  mentioned,  that  the  Pons 
Triumphalis,  a  little  below  St.  Angelo,  is  in  the  same  ruinous  condi- 
tion :  so  that  only  three  out  of  the  six  bridges,  which  at  different  times 
have  connected  the  two  sections  of  the  city  are  now  standing,  and  to 
none  of  them  is  Rome  much  indebted  for  her  grandeur.  Although 
the  Tiber  is  infinitely  superior  to  the  Arno,  its  borders  within  the  walls 
are  mean  in  comparison  with  the  magnificent  quays  and  ranges  of  pa- 
laces at  Pisa  and  Florence.  The  navigation  of  the  river  is  next  to 
nothing ;  and  though  the  form  of  a  custom-house  is  kept  up,  and  the 
papal  flag  is  seen  flying  upon  the  masts  of  the  small  crafi;  lying  in  the 
ancient  harbour,  the  importations  seem  to  be  confined  to  a  few  heavy 
articles,  such  as  marbles  and  statues  from  Carrara,  which  cannot  con- 
veniently be  transported  by  land  from  Civita  Vecchia,  the  nearest  sea- 
port. 


•^  "  Vidimus  flavum  Tiberim,  retorlis 
Lillore  Etrusco  violenter  undis. 
Ire  dejectum  monumenta  regis, 
Templaque  Vestse." 

A  commentator  on  Horace,  now  before  me,  in  expounding  the  words  marked  in 
Italics,  learnedly  remarks — "  Undis  repulsis  a  lillore  Etrusco,  vel  a  Tyrrheno 
mari,  in  quod  Tiberis  infiuil'''' — thus  bringing  the  tides  of  the  Mediterranean  for 
the  first  time  up  to  Rome,  against  the  headlong  and  impetuous  current  of  the  Ti- 
ber :  whereas  the  phrase  expresses  the  rebound  of  the  river  from  the  foot  of  Mount 
Janiculum,  on  the  Etrurian  shore,  to  the  temple  of  ^'^esta  on  the  left  bank — exactly 
true  in  point  of  fact. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         177 

LETTER  LIX. 

HOME   CONTINUED — CAPITOLINE    HILL TARPELAN     ROCK — JIAMERTINE 

PRISON TE3IPLE    OF   JUPITER   FERETRIUS CHURCH    OF    ARAC(ELI — 

STATUE  OF  AURELIUS — SENATOR'S  HOUSE MUSEUM. 

Ajn-il,  182G. 

In  the  foregoing  letters,  I  have  attempted,  in  as  concise  and  intelligible 
a  manner  as  possible,  to  sketch  the  outlines  of  the  view  presented 
from  the  Tower  on  the  Capitolinc  Hill,  together  with  some  of  the 
groups  of  objects  which  fell  in  our  way,  endeavouring  at  the  same 
time  as  far  as  was  practicable,  to  dwell  on  the  antiquities  of  Rome. 
The  other  relics  of  the  ancient  city  are  scarcely  susceptible  of  genera- 
lization, or  reducible  to  any  principle  of  association  either  of  time  or 
place.  They  are  scattered  over  a  wide  space,  and  require  separate 
excursions  of  several  miles.  Let  us  therefore  descend,  (if  amidst  so 
many  episodes,  and  in  threading  the  mazes  of  the  city,  the  reader  has 
not  forgotten  where  we  are,)  and  first  examine  the  objects  worthy  of 
attention  upon  the  Capitoline  Hill. 

Few,  very  few  traces  of  that  once  proud  and  glorious  eminence, 
crowned  with  the  citadel  of  Rome  and  with  the  temples  of  the  gods, 
are  now  to  be  found.  The  researches  of  antiquaries  have  been  una- 
b\e  to  settle  even  the  site  of  an  edifice  which  once  covered  four  acres 
of  ground  ;  was  adorned  in  front  with  triple,  and  on  the  other  sides 
with  double,  ranges  of  columns,  displaying  to  the  dazzled  eye  its  bra- 
zen portals  and  its  roof  of  gold.  It  is  said  to  have  stood  upon  the 
Tarpeian  Rock,*  approached  by  a  hundred  steps.  But  even  the  rock 
itself,  the  immovable  rock  of  the  Capitol,  is  nearly  buried  in  ruins, 
and  for  some  time  eluded  our  search.  At  length,  in  traversing  a  street 
full  of  filth  and  beggars,  extending  along  the  very  summit  of  the  hill, 
we  observed  upon  the  front  of  an  old  house  a  label  inscribed  with  the 
words  "  Alia  Rocca  Tarpeia  ;"  and  following  the  directions,  as  well 
as  half  a  dozen  ragged  urchins  who  had  volunteered  their  services  as 
guides,  we  passed  through  the  second  story  of  the  building  into  a  gar- 


*  "  Hinc  ad  Tarpciam  seclem  ct  Capitol ia  ducit, 
Nunc  aui-ea,  oliin  silvestribus  horrida  dumis." 

The  contrast  expressed  in  the  last  line  has  been  reversed ;  and  what  was  once 
"  golden"  has  again  become  horrible,  if  not  with  biambles,  with  something  infi- 
nitely worse. 

VOL.  ir.  23 


178        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

den  in  the  rear,  and  after  so  much  labour,  reached  the  cUft',  whence 
criminals  were  thrown  into  the  Forum.  The  precipice  was  formerly 
eighty  or  a  hundred  feet ;  but  is  now  less  than  half  that  height.  A 
female  cicerone,  the  tenant  of  the  house,  and  now  the  sole  execution- 
er, took  her  station  by  the  balustrade  of  the  garden,  (shaded  with  the 
fig-tree  and  pomegranate,)  and  discoursed  with  great  TolubiUty  of  "  Ro- 
mulo  e  Remulo"  pointing  out  the  localities  in  the  vicinity.  We  had 
the  curiosity  to  descend  by  a  circuitous  path  to  the  foot  of  the  rock, 
which  is  shelving  and  cannot  be  well  seen  from  the  top.  The  base  is 
cavernous,  and  seems  to  have  been  rudely  scooped  out  for  a  dwelling. 
It  is  a  dark  and  gloomy  retreat,  fit  only  for  another  den  of  Cacus. 
The  floor  was  covered  with  straw,  on  which  sat  a  sun-burnt  fisherman 
packing  herring.  He  looked  as  if  he  might  have  just  rained  down 
from  the  cliff. 

On  the  eastern  end  of  the  Capitoline  Hill  are  several  objects  of 
some  interest,  the  first  of  which  are  the  remains  of  the  Mamertine 
Prison,  built  by  Aneus  Martius.  Its  position  exactly  corresponds 
with  Livy's  description — '■'■media  urhe,  imminens  Ford'- — in  the  midst 
of  the  city,  overhanging  the  Forum.  A  little  church  is  now  erected 
above  it,  called  San  Pietro  in  Carcere,  (St.  Peter  in  Prison,)  which 
is  one  of  the  most  popular  shrines  in  Rome,  being  at  all  hours  of  the 
day  thronged  with  devotees.  One  of  the  canons  of  the  church,  a 
very  courteous  but  superstitious  man,  in  this  instance  acted  as  our  ci- 
cerone, although  at  the  moment  of  our  visit  on  Sunday  morning,  he 
was  just  in  the  act  of  putting  on  his  sacerdotal  robes,  to  officiate  at 
the  altar.  Five  wax-tapers  were  lighted,  and  each  of  us  bearing  one 
in  his  hand,  we  descended  like  spirits  into  the  dismal  regions  below, 
under  the  protection  of  a  priest,  who  could  exorcise  any  spectres  that 
might  intrude  into  the  holy  precincts.  On  his  way  down  the  blind 
stairway,  he  gravely  pointed  to  an  indentation  in  the  solid  rock  out  of 
which  the  prison  was  hewn,  and  an  inscription,  informed  us  that  it  was 
the  print  of  St.  Peter'' s  head,  which  was  thrust  against  the  wall,  in  a 
scuffle  with  the  gaoler  !  The  rock  yielded  to  the  occiput  of  the  Apos- 
tle, and  thus  was  he  preserved  by  a  miracle — to  endure  the  horrors  of 
a  dungeon,  and  afterwards  to  be  crucified  with  his  head  downwards. 
But  it  was  not  deemed  worth  while  to  disturb  the  faith  of  our  guide, 
or  to  cavil  about  the  authenticity  of  such  an  incident. 

The  Mamertine  Prison  is  small  in  its  dimensions,  consisting  of  two 
rooms,  one  above  the  other,  and  communicating  by  a  trapdoor,  through 
which  the  prisoners  used  to  be  let  down.  Near  the  wall  in  the  lower 
story  or  dungeon,  stands  a  stone  pillar,  covered  with  an  iron  grate,  to 
which  Peter  and  Paul  are  said  to  have  been  chained  ;  and  within  a 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        179 

few  feel  of  it,  is  a  living  fountain  of  pure  water,  which,  as  a  tablet  tells 
the  visitant,  miraculously  gushed  out  all  at  once,  and  from  which  the 
two  persecuted  Apostles  baptized  forty-seven  converts  to  Christianity, 
during  their  imprisonment.  Our  clerical  guide  certified  to  the  truth 
of  the  inscription.  Through  the  wall  on  one  side  of  the  dungeon  is  a 
secret  passage,  now  closed  by  a  rusty  iron  door,  communicating  with 
the  catacombs,  which  once  extended  for  many  miles  beneath  the  city. 
It  was  in  this  confined  and  dark  abode,  that  Jugurtha  was  left  to  starve, 
and  Cethegus  and  Lentulus,  accomplices  in  tlie  conspiracy  of  Cata- 
line,  were  strangled  to  death.  On  returning  to  the  upper  air,  our  obli- 
ging cicerone  accepted  a  pauF  or  two  for  his  services,  resumed  hb 
ecclesiastical  costume,  and  hastened  to  his  sacred  functions. 

It  is  supposed  that  the  temple  of  Jupiter  Feretrius,  the  oldest  at 
Rome,  and  instituted  by  the  founder  of  the  city  himself,  stood  upon 
the  opposite  brow  of  the  hill.  Its  dimensions,  however,  were  so  con- 
tracted, that  it  might  have  been  crowded  into  a  corner.  It  was  only 
ten  feet  in  length  and  five  in  breadth — a  striking  illustration  of  the 
simplicity  of  the  age,  and  of  the  remark  of  the  historian,  that  never 
did  so  great  an  empire  spring  from  an  origin  so  humble.  In  his  ani- 
mated account  of  the  foundation  of  this  temple,  Livy  states  that  it  was 
soon  filled  with  the  trophies  of  vanquished  nations,  and  that  it  was  sub- 
sequently increased  to  double  its  size  : — "  binapostea,  intra  tot  annos^ 
tot  bella,  opima  parta  sunt  spolia.^^  The  site  is  at  present  occupied 
by  the  modern  church  of  Santa  Maria  d'  Aracccli,  to  which  the  ascent 
is  by  a  flight  of  124  steps  of  marble,  said  to  be  from  the  ruins  of  the 
temple  of  Quirinal  Jove.  Twenty-two  ancient  columns  of  Egyptian 
granite  separate  the  nave  of  the  church  from  the  aisles  ;  and  near  the 
sacristy  is  an  octagonal,  antique  altar  of  white  marble,  which  Augus- 
tus is  said  to  have  erected  and  dedicated  to  "  the  first-born  God,"  at 
the  birth  of  our  Saviour.  The  name  of  Ara  Coeli  (Altar  of  Heaven,) 
is  derived  from  this  circumstance.  As  anticipations  of  the  approach 
of  a  new  era  were  common  all  over  the  Fiast,  previous  to  the  advent 
of  the  Saviour,  and  as  the  Romans  had  frequent  intercourse  with 
Egypt,  Palestine,  and  Asia  Minor,  who  can  say  that  the  above  men- 
tioned tradition  is  not  founded  in  truth,  and  that  the  Fourth  Eclogue 
of  Virgil  miglit  not  have  been  written  at  tlie  dedication  of  this  very 
altar,  deriving  its  exalted  images  from  the  Hebrew  prophets,  instead  of 


*  The  paulo,  ten  of  which  makes  a  scudo  or  Roman  dollar,  is  equal  to  about 
ten  cents  American  currency.     Both  of  these  coins  are  silver,  bearing  the  impress 
of  the  papal  arms,  with  a  female  fijurc  upon  the  reverse.     The  lesser  coins  are  of        , 
copper,  called  biorrhi,  answering  very  nearly  to  tlie  cents  of  our  country.  J 


180        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

the  leaves  of  a  sibyl !  Pope's  Messiah,  with  the  book  of  Isaiah  for  a 
text,  and  the  events  of  sixteen  centuries  for  a  commentary,  is  scarcely 
more  descriptive  of  the  reign  of  the  Prince  of  Peace,  than  the  lofty 
and  polished  numbers  of  the  Roman  poet. 

The  central  portion  of  the  Capitoline  Hill  is  occupied  by  a  large 
Square  open  on  one  side,  and  bordered  on  the  other  three  by  public 
buildings,  designed  by  Michael  Angelo,  and  erected  by  order  of  Pope 
Paul  in.  In  approaching  from  the  north,  and  ascending  a  flight  of 
steps  much  less  magnificent  than  those  leading  to  the  church  of  Ara- 
coeli,  the  visitant  finds  on  his  right  and  left  a  line  of  statuary,  with 
other  antiquities,  ranged  along  the  balustrade  of  the  Piazza.  Castor 
and  Pollux  guard  the  head  of  the  stairs,  flanked  among  other  objects, 
by  the  two  sons  of  Constantine,  rude  images  or  more  properly  torsos, 
called  the  trophies  of  Marius,  and  a  column  which  formed  the  first 
mile-stone  on  the  Appian  Way.  In  the  centre  of  the  square,  and 
facing  the  north,  stands  an  equestrian  statue  of  Marcus  Aurelius,  finely 
mounted  on  an  elevated  pedestal.  It  is  of  bronze,  (the  only  antique 
equestrian  statue  of  the  same  material  extant,)  and  was  found  near  St. 
John  Lateran.  The  head  of  the  horse  has  been  much  praised  for  its 
spirit ;  but  the  body  appeared  to  me  quite  too  protuberant,  looking  as 
if  the  steed  of  the  Emperor,  instead  of  being  caparisoned  for  war, 
had  long  been  turned  out  to  pasture,  in  the  red-clover  fields  of  the  Cli- 
tumnus. 

From  the  south  side  of  the  Square,  two  streets  wind  down  into  the 
Roman  Forum,  a,nd  between  them,  upon  the  very  brow  of  the  Hill, 
stands  what  is  termed  the  Senator's  House,  but  which  seems  to  be  as 
much  a  shadow  and  a  pageant,  as  the  oflice  itself;  for  the  greater  part 
of  it  is  left  vacant,  and  exhibits  no  traces  of  senatorial  dignity.  It 
occupies  the  site  of  the  old  Roman  Tabularium,  or  depository  of  re- 
cords, the  ruins  of  which  are  still  visible  in  the  foundations  of  the  mo- 
dern building.  One  corner  of  this  gloomy  edifice  is  occupied  as  a 
prison,  the  inmates  of  which,  as  we  ascended  the  steps,  thrust  through 
the  grates  little  bags  fastened  to  the  end  of  a  rod,  (such  as  are  used 
in  making  collections  in  churches,)  and  set  up  a  yefl  like  so  many  fu- 
ries, in  their  importunate  cries  for  charity.  Through  the  rusty  bars  of 
their  windows  they  may  look  out  upon  the  glittering  dome  of  St. 
Peter's,  and  the  sumptuous  palaces  of  the  Vatican,  enriched  perhaps 
by  a  portion  of  their  own  contributions. 

The  front  door  opens  directly  into  a  large,  empty,  dreary  hall,  in 
which  Petrarch  received  the  laureate  crown  in  his  visit  to  Rome,  and 
where  Madame  de  Stael  makes  her  Corinna  act  the  part  of  an  impro- 
visatrice  with  so  much  eclat.     If  this  lady  had  seen  Italy,  before  she 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         181 

wrote  her  splendid  work,  I  am  sure  she  would  have  changed  the  scene, 
and  never  have  attempted  to  wake  the  eclioes  of  applause,  or  kindle 
the  romance  of  feeling  in  this  cheerless  apartment.  The  perfect  waste 
of  floor,  the  stuccoed  walls,  and  the  heavy  ceiling,  struck  a  chill  to 
my  heart,  and  quenched  every  spark  of  enthusiasm,  which  the  names 
of  Petrarch  and  Corinua  might  otherwise  have  elicited.  With  the 
tower  of  the  Senator's  house,  (our  old  observatory,)  my  readers  are 
suflicicntly  acquainted  ;  and  the  rest  of  the  building,  inside  and  out, 
is  entirely  devoid  of  interest.  Just  imder  the  double  fliglit  of  steps  in 
front,  there  is  a  copious  and  beautiful  fountain,  (a  species  of  embelHsh- 
ment  in  which  Rome  iniinitely  surpasses  all  other  cities  I  have  seen,) 
ornamented  with  two  river-gods  pouring  plenty  from  their  cornucopiae ; 
the  wolf  and  her  regal  boys,  surmounted  by  an  image  of  Roma  herself, 
in  the  character  of  Victory,  in  a  sitting  posture.  The  latter  figure  is 
in  bad  taste,  as  it  is  of  Parian  marble,  draped  with  porphyry.  Red 
and  white,  or  indeed  any  two  colours,  never  appear  well  in  a  statue. 

The  two  edifices  flanking  the  square — the  Museo  Capitolino  on  the 
east,  and  the  Palazzo  de' Conservator!  on  the  west — in  exterior  much 
resemble  the  Senator's  House.  They  extend  nearly  across  the  hill, 
two  stories  high,  with  arcades  in  front ;  and  in  any  other  situation, 
their  architectural  ornaments  might  perhaps  be  admired.  But  on  this 
hill  the  name  and  the  genius  of  even  Michael  Angelo  have  been  unable 
to  impart  to  them  or  to  the  Square  much  interest.  The  spectator  invol- 
untarily regards  all  the  embeUishments  as  a  feeble  and  ineffectual  effort 
to  restore  the  ancient  magnificence  of  the  Capitol ;  and  the  total  failure 
in  the  modern  decorations  gives  the  mind  perhaps  more  pain,  than 
would  a  heap  of  utter  ruins.  Such  were  my  feelings,  increased  too 
by  the  prejudice  of  a  name ;  for  the  Capitolium,  (Roman  in  the  very 
march  of  its  syllables,)  has  degenerated  into  the  barbarous,  enervated, 
creeping  appellation  of  Campidoglio.  My  readers  have  not  seen  the 
word  before,  and  will  not  see  it  again ;  for  it  is  associated  in  my  mind 
with  every  thing  mean  and  contemptible.  If  the  thunders  of  tlie  Va- 
tican were  at  my  command,  I  would  issue  a  bull  to-morrow,  restoring 
the  Roman  name,  and  threatening  the  penalty  of  ex-communication 
against  every  one,  in  wliose  mouth  the  modern  term  should  be  found. 

But  let  us  enter  the  Museum  of  antiques  and  see  what  it  contains. 
The  court  and  the  arcades  below  are  filled  with  works  of  merit,  yet 
not  of  sufficient  interest  to  detain  us  from  more  valuable  treasures. 
On  the  right  is  a  suite  of  rooms  in  tlie  basement,  llie  first  of  which  is 
filled  with  all  the  Egyptian  gods  and  goddesses,  idols  and  sacred  utensils, 
in  black  antique  marble.  The  collection  is  valuable  chiefly,  as  illustra- 
tive of  the  reliLMon  of  that  nation.     Isis  bears  the  sistrmn,  a  musical 


1S2        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

instrument  made  of  brass,  used  in  her  mysteries,  to  call  the  people  to 
the  sacrifices.  The  priests  of  Egypt  are  also  here  found  in  their  sa- 
cerdotal costumes.  In  the  halls  of  the  Lapidary  and  of  the  Urn,  are 
some  fine  bas-reliefs  ;  among  others  the  battles  of  Achilles,  on  a  co- 
lossal sarcophagus  of  Severus.  Tablets  containing  the  inscriptions  of 
the  several  Emperors,  cover  the  walls  of  these  rooms. 

The  sides  of  the  stairway  are  lined  with  the  fragments  of  the  an- 
cient map  of  Rome,  taken  from  the  temple  of  Remus,  as  mentioned 
in  a  previous  paragraph.  On  entering  the  Gallery,  a  long  vista,  lined 
on  both  sides  with  statues,  busts,  hermes,*  and  other  antiquities  with- 
out number,  opens  on  the  view,  like  the  Corridors  of  the  Florentine 
Gallery,  or  the  Louvre  at  Paris,  though  less  splendid  in  its  furniture 
than  either.  Among  the  curiosities  of  the  collection,  is  the  ancient 
balance,  made  precisely  like  modern  steelyards,  with  a  tiny  bust  for 
a  poise.  Here  also  is  the  tripod,  and  a  thousand  other  objects  illus- 
trative of  the  Greek  and  Latin  Classics.  But  it  would  be  endless  to 
specify.  The  fable  of  Prometheus  is  beautifully  illustrated  in  bas- 
relief.  A  metallic  urn,  which  belonged  to  Mithridates,  so  famous  in 
the  wars  of  the  East,  also  attracted  my  attention. 

One  of  the  halls  of  the  Museum  is  appropriated  exclusively  to  the 
busts  of  the  Emperors,  arranged  in  chronological  order.  It  is  a  fine 
study  for  history,  as  well  as  statuary  and  craniology.  But  who  knows 
where  the  articles  came  from,  and  how  much  the  subjects  were  flat- 
tered by  the  parasites  of  the  day  ? — The  heads  of  the  Twelve  Caesars 
here  stand  in  a  row.  They  have  generally  stupid  faces.  One  of  the 
busts  is  composed  of  five  kinds  of  alabaster,  a  monument  of  the  wan- 
ton luxury  and  folly  of  the  age.  The  different  colours  of  the  mate- 
rials give  the  countenance  a  ludicrous  appearance. 

There  is  another  apartment  in  the  contents  of  which  I  took  more 
interest.  It  is  filled  with  the  busts  of  philosophers,  statesmen,  sages, 
orators,  poets,  and  other  remarkable  personages,  who  depended  on 
genius  and  intellect,  and  not  on  the  imperial  purple  for  celebrity. 
The  bust  of  Virgil  disappointed  me.  He  is  represented  with  an 
eiFeminate  face,  and  soft,  flowing  tresses,  without  one  manly  feature — 
the  very  opposite  of  the  dignity  of  his  character,  as  given  by  his  biogra- 
phers. Cicero  has  not  the  long,  swan-like  neck  and  prominent  Ro- 
man features,  which  distinguish  prints  of  him.  Socrates  has  a  snub 
nose,  which  in  spite  of  his  beard,  makes  one  laugh  in  his  face.  Sap- 
pho, the  divine  Sappho,  is  a  personification  of  stupidity  in  every  linea- 


*  A  hermes  is  a  head,  with  all  below  the  neck  in  a  rude,  unfinished  block.    The 
term  was  at  first  new  to  me,  and  an  explanation  may  be  acceptable  to  others. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPI',.  1S3 

ment.  It  must  be  a  satire  upon  the  sweet  enchantress  of  the  Lesbian 
lyre  ;  for  such  a  being  could  neither  have  "  loved  nor  sung,"  and  her 
leap  from  the  Leucadian  rock  ceases  to  be  a  matter  of  wonder.  The 
bust  of  Cleopatra  has  crystal  eyes  !  They  glare  as  frightfully  upon 
the  spectator,  as  did  her  own  when  swimming  in  death,  with  the  asp 
at  her  bosom. 

In  the  Saloon  called  the  Four  Windows,  are  statues  of  Jupiter  and 
of  a  Faun,  in  black  antique — both  very  celebrated.  Here  also  is 
a  young  Hercules,  in  all  the  grossness  of  an  overgrown  urchin,  with- 
out exhibiting  any  of  the  characteristic  strength  of  the  demigod.  It 
must  be  difficult  for  an  artist  to  give  bone  and  muscle  to  a  boy.  The 
infant  giant  is  commonly  made  fat  instead  of  strong.  This  room  con- 
tains several  Venuses  and  as  many  Amazons.  The  former  are  very 
far  inferior  to  the  modest,  divine  little  goddess,  left  almost  like  a  lover 
upon  the  banks  of  the  Arno.  I  observed  that  the  drapery  of  the  lat- 
ter (the  Amazons)  discloses  indiscriminately  either  the  right  or  left 
breast.  Is  this  classical  ? — The  right  one  was  exterminated,  and 
seared  to  prepare  them  for  war  ;  and  hence  the  very  name.  In  this 
hall  are  also  a  Pythian  Apollo,  with  his  tripod  and  lyre  ;  and  a  fine 
bust  of  Caius  Marius,  possessing  just  such  a  head  as  one  would  look 
for  from  his  character. 

The  hall  of  the  Faun  contains  many  fine  pieces,  the  first  of  which 
is  the  rural  divinity  himself,  standing  in  the  centre.  He  is  in  red  an- 
tique, represented  in  the  character  of  Bacchus,  wearing  all  the  attri- 
butes of  the  jovial  god.  The  colour  of  the  statue,  even  in  a  deity 
who  might  be  supposed  to  have  a  red  face^  in  my  opinion  detracts 
much  from  its  beauty.  It  may  be  laid  down  as  a  universal  rule,  that 
white  marble  is  far  superior  to  all  other  materials  for  statuary  ;  and 
every  attempt  to  strike  by  factitious  ornaments,  or  a  variation  of  co- 
lour, is  in  bad  taste.  There  is  another  fine  article  in  this  saloon.  It 
is  Innocence  playing  with  a  dove  ;  and  one  hardly  knows  which  ex- 
presses the  virtue  most  forcibly,  the  female  figure,  or  her  emblem.  A 
child  playing  with  a  swan  is  of  the  same  character.  Here  also  is  a 
very  small  statue  of  Alexander  the  Great.  It  is  laughable  to  see  the 
conqueror  of  the  world,  strutting  and  playing  the  hero,  in  the  person 
of  Tom  Thumb. 

The  hall  of  the  Gladiator  probably  contains  more  choice  pieces  of 
sculpture,  than  all  the  rest  of  the  gallery  put  together.  Here' is  the 
group  of  Cupid  and  Psyche,  the  original  of  the  exquisite  copy  in  the 
Louvre  at  Paris,  and  one  of  the  most  finished  productions  of  Canova's 
chisel.  Here  also  is  the  Faun  of  Praxiteles,  a  masterpiece  in  propor- 
tion, expression,  and  finish.     Venus  coming  out  of  the  bath  approxi- 


184  LETTERS  PROM  EUROPE. 

mates  to  her  namesake  at  Florence,  but  appears  less  platonic  in  tlie 
character  of  her  affections.  The  attitude  of  both  is  nearly  the  same. . 
But  this  saloon  contains  one  piece,  which  eclipses  all  others — the  dy- 
ing Gladiator.  It  is  ascribed  to  Praxiteles  ;  but  whether  he  made  it 
or  not,  its  merits  are  obvious  to  every  person,  and  need  not  the  au- 
thority of  a  great  name  to  render  them  striking.  There  is  a  depth  of 
pathos  in  the  expression,  which  almost  melts  the  spectator  into  tears. 
No  wonder  Napoleon  ordered  this  statue  to  Paris.  His  crime  of 
plunder  was  half  redeemed  by  the  taste  displayed  in  selecting  his  ob- 
jects. Byron's  description  of  the  Gladiator  is  so  accurate,  and  so  ex- 
quisitely beautiful,  that  I  cannot  forbear  to  quote  one  stanza,  although 
it  may  be  in  the  mouths  of  half  my  readers.  Let  any  one  peruse  it, 
and  then  go  and  search  for  pleasing  associations  at  the  Coliseum  : 

"  I  see  before  me  the  gladi»torlie ; 

He  leans  npon  his  hand — his  manly  brow 

Consents  to  death,  but  conquers  agon3% 

And  liis  drooped  head  sinks  gradually  low — 

And  through  his  side  the  last  drops,  ebbing  slow 

From  tlie  red  gash,  fall  heavy,  one  by  one, 

Like  the  first  of  a  thunder  shower;  and  now 

The  arena  swims  around  him — he  is  gone, 

Ere  ceased  the  inhuman  shout,  which  hailed  the  wretch  Avho  won." 

Let  us  now  cross  the  square  and  hasten  through  the  Palace  of  the 
Conservators  on  the  opposite  side  with  all  possible  despatch,  though 
it  contains  a  multiplicity  of  objects,  about  which  the  visitant  loves  to 
linger.  The  court  is  filled  with  fragments  of  colossal  statues — torsos 
of  immense  size — heads,  arms,  and  feet,  ranged  round  the  walls.  Of 
all  sorts  of  antiquities,  these  giant  limbs  are  generally  the  most  unin- 
teresting. In  their  best  estate,  they  were  merely  objects  of  vulgar 
curiosity  ;  in  ruins,  they  cease  to  present  any  attractions.  Nothing 
can  excuse  colossal  statues  in  any  other  situations,  than  where  they 
are  to  be  seen  at  great  heights  or  great  distances,  which  will  reduce 
them  to  the  ordinary  proportions  of  the  species.  In  all  other  cases, 
they  become  monstrosities  exhibiting  the  bad  taste,  the  pride,  and 
folly  of  man. 

The  Protomotheca,  or  Gallery  of  illustrious  men,  is  the  most  inte- 
resting part  of  the  Conservators'  Palace.  It  comprises  eight  large  sa- 
loons communicating  with  one  another,  and  filled  with  the  most  authen- 
tic busts  of  remarkable  personages  in  modern  Italy,  from  the  twelfth 
century  to  the  present  period.  It  is  the  counterpart  of  the  antiques 
in  the  Museum.  Although  the  Popes,  who  are  the  Caesars  of  the 
day,  and  many  other  individuals  in  whom  one  feels  no  interest,  have 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         185 

crowded  themselves  among  men  of  genius  ;  yet  it  is  but  just  to  say, 
that  the  collection  manifests  great  liberality  of  feeling,  and  nationality 
of  sentiment,  on  the  part  of  the  Papal  government,  at  whose  expense 
the  gallery  was  established,  and  is  still  supported.  The  heads  of  men 
of  eminence  in  the  several  departments  of  science,  literature,  and  the 
arts,  are  here  found,  whatever  may  have  been  their  heresies  in  religion 
and  politics  during  life.  In  illustration  of  this  remark,  the  busts  of 
Dante,  Gallileo,  and  a  hundred  others,  who  incurred  the  displeasure 
of  the  church,  might  be  mentioned.  Even  Boccaccio,  whose  "  im- 
pure dust"  the  immaculate  Mr.  Eustace  was  for  trampling  into  obli- 
vion, has  been  enrolled  by  the  authority  of  the  Pope  among  his  illus- 
trious compeers.  In  a  word,  enlightened  patriotism  seems  to  have 
been  the  governing  principle  in  the  collection  of  the  articles  in  the 
Protomotheca,  which  was  commenced  by  Pius  VII.  whose  elegant 
statue  by  Canova  is  very  justly  entitled  to  a  conspicuous  place  in  the_, 
gallery.  It  would  be  an  endless  task,  to  select,  and  attempt  to  de- 
scribe even  the  more  interesting  faces,  from  old  Columbus  down  to 
Alfieri  and  Goldoni,  which  meet  the  visitant  at  every  step.  In  the 
halls  of  the  Conservators,  modern  history  and  biography  may  be  stu- 
died to  as  much  advantage,  as  antiquities  in  the  Capitohne  Museum. 
We  spent  several  days  in  the  two  buildings,  and  a  much  longer  time 
might  have  been  employed  both  with  pleasure  and  instruction. 

In  the  second  story,  over  the  Protomotheca,  is  a  long  suite  of  cham- 
bers, filled  with  curiosities  of  various  kinds — statues,  busts,  and  paint- 
ings. The  most  interesting  article  is  tlie  bronze  Wolf  nursing  the 
twin  boys,  supposed  to  be  the  one  mentioned  by  Cicero,  as  having 
been  struck  by  lightning,  in  token  of  the  displeasure  of  the  gods,  and 
the  approaching  ruin  of  the  empire.  It  is  pretended,  that  the  bolt 
icU  on  the  day  of  Caesar's  assassination  in  the  Senate.*  The  traces  of 
the  lightning  are  still  visible  upon  the  hind  legs  of  the  animal,  which 
were  cleft  near  the  feet,  and  pieces  of  the  bronze  torn  out.  Neither  of 
the  children,  sheltered  under  the  body  of  their  protectress,  sustained 
injury.  Absurd  as  this  fable  is,  when  construed  literally,  it  makes  a 
pretty  picture.  The  head  of  the  wolf,  divested  of  its  natural  ferocity, 
is  turned  round  to  contemplate  her  regal  charge  with  afiection  and 
maternal  tenderness.  Near  this  group  stands  a  metallic  bust  of  .Junius 
Brutus.  The  complexion  of  the  material  is  coal-black,  and  the  white 
eyes  give  to  a  severe  countenance  an  almost  terrific  appearance.     It 


*  The  Senate-house  in  which  Caesar  was  stabbed  stood  in  the  Forum  of  Pompey, 
between  tlie  Capitoline  Hill  and  the  Tiber.  Merc  curiosity  induced  us  to  visif 
the  site,  now  occupied  by  the  large  modern  church  of  St.  Andrew. 

VOL.  11.  24 


186  LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE. 

lias  lately  been  returned  from  Paris,  and  is  reckoned  one  of  the  choicest 
articles  in  the  collection.  A  bronze  head  of  Michael  Angelo,  and  his 
marble  bust,  sculptured  by  himself,  arrested  our  attention,  although  he 
has  not  a  great  or  interesting  feature  in  his  face,  according  to  his  own 
showing.  His  forehead  is  low,  his  nose  flat,  and  his  chin  long  :  so 
much  for  the  indications  of  phrenology. 

The  gallery  of  paintings,  comprising  between  two  and  three  hundred 
articles,  covering  the  walls  of  two  large  saloons,  contains  many  works 
of  merit,  though  it  cannot  he  considered  one  of  the  most  splendid 
collections  in  Italy,  We  did  not  observe  a  single  picture  by  Raphael. 
The  Bologna  and  Venetian  schools  are  the  most  prominent — Guido, 
the  three  Caraccis,  Domenichino,  Titian,  Paul  Veronese,  and  the  rest. 
Several  of  Claude  Lorraine's  finest  landscapes  attract  the  eye  of  the 
visitant.  Among  the  most  interesting  pictures  are  the  Sibyl  Persica, 
by  Guercino,  and  the  Cumaean  Sibyl,  by  Domenichino.  They  are  both 
executed  with  great  spirit,  but  disappointed  me  as  much,  as  to  the 
cliaracter  of  these  prophetesses,  as  did  the  one  in  the  Tribune  at  Flo- 
rence. Guide's  Magdalen  is  also  here  ;  but  in  my  estimation,  she 
■will  not  bear  a  comparison  with  the  sweet  penitent  of  Carlo  Dolce. 
Old  Michael  Angelo  seemed  resolved,  that  the  world  should  not  forget 
his  face,  ugly  as  it  is.  He  has  here  a  portrait  painted  by  himself  It  does 
not  improve  much  upon  the  bust.  Guercino's  resurrection  and  ascen- 
sion of  a  Saint,  (I  forget  her  name,)  is  an  admirable  picture ;  and  so 
is  Guido's  Europa.  But  I  have  not  time  to  dwell  on  this  topic,  nor 
to  retrace  our  steps  through  the  Chambers  of  Audience  and  of  the 
Throne,  (for  this  is  a  pontifical  palace,)  the  walls  of  which  exhibit 
rather  a  meagre  show  of  tapestry,  and  the  ceiling  an  endless  succes- 
sion of  frescos.  In  the  chapel  some  daring  artist  has  attempted  to 
portray  an  image  of  the  Supreme  Being,  clothed  in  the  costume  of 
mortals.     It  need  not  be  added,  that  the  effort  is  mere  mockery. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        187 

LETTER  LX. 

ROME  CONTINUED RIDE  ROUND  THE  WALLS TOMB   OF  THE   SCIPI03 

IJATHS    OF  CARACALLA — TOMB   OF  CECILIA    METELLA — CIRCUS  OP  CA- 

RACALLA CATACOMBS FOUNTAIN    OF   EGERIA BATHS    OF    TITUS 

GARDENS  OF  SALLUST EXCURSION  TO  TIVOH — VILLA  OF  ADRIAN. 

May,  1826. 

For  the  purpose  of  examining  the  walls  and  gates  of  Rome,  wc  rode 
round  the  ramparts,  from  tlie  Porta  del  Popolo,  near  the  bank  of  the 
Tiber  on  the  north,  to  the  Porta  di  St.  Paolo  at  the  southern  extremity 
of  the  city — an  excursion  occupying  several  hours.  The  road  is  bad, 
and  often  dangerous  for  coaches.  In  this  vast  semicircle,  there  are 
nine  gates,  leading  to  dillerent  parts  of  the  Campagna,  which  with 
the  three  or  four  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Tiber  make  about  a  dozen 
in  all.  None  of  them  are  very  remarkable  for  magnificence,  except 
the  one  already  described  at  our  entrance,  and  the  Porta  Pia,  erected 
by  Pius  VII.  The  Porta  del  Popolo  and  Neapolitan  Gate  are  the 
great  thoroughfares,  through  which  travellers  arrive  and  depart. 

The  walls  of  Rome  arc  from  thirty  to  forty  feet  high  on  the  outside, 
depending  something  on  the  formation  of  the  ground.  They  are. 
generally  constructed  of  brick  ;  but  occasionally  of  large  blocks  of 
tufo,  which  is  found  in  abundance  on  the  Campagna.  In  truth,  the 
ramparts  are  a  piece  of  patch-work,  alternately  demohshedand  rebuilt, 
since  the  age  of  Aurelian  ;  and  there  is  nothing  like  uniformity  either 
in  the  materials  or  construction.  Sometimes  the  towers  and  bastions, 
by  which  they  are  flanked  at  short  intervals,  are  round  and  at  others, 
square.  The  defences  are  at  present  entirely  abandoned,  and  the  port- 
Iioles  blocked  up.  In  many  places,  the  walls  are  in  a  ruinous  condi- 
tion, often  overgrown  and  overhung  with  ivy,  cypress,  myrtle,  and  other 
shrubbery,  which  give  to  the  parapet  a  picturesque  appearance.  The 
path  is  the  whole  way  perfectly  solitary.  We  did  not,  to  my  recollec- 
tion, meet  a  human  being,  in  making  the  circuit.  The  view  is  entire- 
ly cut  olT  on  one  hand,  and  much  obstructed  by  a  wall  on  the  other. 
Occasionally  the  luxuriant  branches  of  the  fig-tree,  or  the  red  blossoms 
of  the  pomegranate,*  springing  from  the  garden  of  some  deserted 


*  The  pomegranate  is  a  beautiful  tree  of  the  size  of  the  peacli,  with  a  spear- 
shaped,  delicate  leaf,  glossy  like  the  myrtle.  Its  petals  are  of  the  colour  of  the 
Japan  rose — bell-shaped,  and  polyandrous— the  fruit  while  growing  resembles  thp 
led  pepper. 


186        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

villa,  overhang  the  road.  Near  the  Neapolitan  gate,  the  remains  of 
the  Circus  Castrensis,  appropriated  to  military  games,  were  observed, 
incorporated  with  the  walls,  but  still  exhibiting  a  few  of  its  Corinthian 
pillars.  The  Campagna  in  this  quarter  is  strewed  with  the  ruins  of 
the  old  Roman  aqueducts. 

Another  excursion  to  the  Porta  Capena,  and  thence  along  the  Appian 
Way,  presented  a  much  greater  variety  of  objects.  We  examined 
en  passant  the  ruins  of  the  theatre  of  Marcellus,  which  was  built  by 
Augustus  and  reckoned  among  the  finest  of  ancient  Rome.  It  was 
four  stories  high,  fragments  of  only  two  of  which  are  now  remaining 
- — the  basement,  adorned  with  beautiful  Doric  pillars,  and  the  second 
with  Ionic.  Our  visit  to  the  tomb  of  the  Scipios  was  extremely  inte- 
resting. It  is  situated  on  a  little  declivity,  by  the  side  of  the  Appian 
Way,  not  far  from  the  gate,  and  in  the  midst  of  a  vineyard.  The 
words  "  Sepulchra  Scipionuni"  at  the  entrance  guide  the  traveller  to 
the  mausoleum,  which  is  overgrown  with  wild  shrubs,  weeds,  and 
grass.  An  old  woman  brought  out  her  three  or  four  wax  tapers,  and 
each  of  us  carrying  his  own  light  followed  her  through  a  narrow  pas- 
sage into  the  gloomy  mansions  of  the  dead.  From  the  mouth  of  the 
sepulchre,  there  is  a  rapid  descent  to  the  farther  extremity,  a  distance 
perhaps  of  a  hundred  feet  or  more  ;  for  it  is  impossible  to  say  how  far 
we  went  in  the  labyrinth  of  brick  arches,  lined  with  sarcophagi,  stand- 
ing in  niches  on  either  hand.  All  the  family  sleep  here,  except  Scipio 
Africanus,  who  died  an  exile  not  far  from  Naples.  Numerous  tablets 
and  inscriptions  cover  the  walls  of  the  mausoleum.  The  monuments 
are  dropping  away  piecemeal,  and  the  gloom  of  the  place,  united  to 
its  intricacy,  is  almost  terrific. 

Not  far  hence,  and  on  the  right  side  of  the  Appian  Way,  wevisited 
the  ruins  of  the  Baths  of  Caracalla,  covering  several  acres,  and  rising 
in  prodigious  masses  from  the  plain.  Sevieral  of  the  stupendous 
arches,  towers,  and  even  saloons,  are  yet  nearly  entire,  exhibiting  a 
vivid  image  of  their  former  extent  and  splendour.  The  walls  were  of 
brick,  encrusted  with  marble.  Excavations  have  been  made  to  the 
Mosaic  pavements,  which  were  found  strewed  with  statues  and  other 
ornaments.  Among  the  more  valuable  articles,  which  have  been  dis- 
interred, are  the  Farnesian  Hercules  and  Flora,  now  at  Naples.  The 
ruins  are  luxuriantly  shaded  with  ivy,  shrubs  and  wild  flowers,  on 
which  the  bee  feeds,  and  its  hum  alone  breaks  the  solitude  of  this  once 
fashionable,  sumptuous,  and  gay  retreat. 

Two  or  three  miles  from  the  Porta  Capena,  on  the  left  side  of  the 
Appian  Way,  stands  the  Tomb  of  Cecilia  Metella,  of  whom  little  is 
known,  except  that  she  was  the  wife  of  Crassus,  the  most  wealthy  citi- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         189 

zen  of  Rome.  The  monument  is  composed  of  large  blocks  of  Tra- 
vertine, compactly  built,  and  rises  like  a  strong  circular  fortress  from 
the  waste  of  the  Campagna.  It  has  in  fact  sometimes  been  occupied 
as  a  castle,  and  undergone  slight  alterations  to  fit  it  for  military  pur- 
poses. Its  dimensions  are  about  sixty  feet  in  diameter  and  as  many 
in  height,  girt  at  top  with  a  frieze  and  sculptured  garlands,  as  also 
with  an  image  of  Metella  and  the  proud  escutcheons  of  her  family. 
The  walls  are  thick  and  without  windows,  the  rotunda  in  the  interior 
for  the  reception  of  the  sarcophagus  being  open  at  top.  A  rich  circle 
of  verdure  springing  from  the  smnmit  of  the  ruin,  and  breaking  the 
light  of  the  aperture,  presents  a  most  picturesque  view  in  looking  up 
tlirough  the  long  dark  shaft.  The  sarcopliagus  has  been  removed,  to 
decorate  the  courts  of  one  of  the  palaces  at  Rome. 

Within  a  hundred  rods  of  tliis  monument,  and  on  the  same  side  of 
the  road,  the  ruins  of  Caracalla's  Circus  lie  strewed  upon  the  plain, 
covered  with  tall  grass  enamelled  with  flowers,  through  which  we 
waded,  to  examine  the  spina,  the  bounds,  the  goals,  the  seats  for  the 
judges,  the  orchestra  for  the  military  band.,  the  triumphal  arch  for  the 
victors,  the  immense  amphitheatre  for  the  audience,  and  in  short,  all 
the  apparatus  for  the  ancient  chariot  races,  as  they  were  celebrated  in 
Greece  and  Rome.  An  obscure  gate  was  pointed  out  to  us  on  one 
side,  through  which  the  dead  combatants  were  carried,  who  fell  in  the 
glorious  career  !  The  outlhies  are  perfectly  visible,  and  furnish  valua- 
ble illustrations  of  the  classics.  It  requires  scarcely  an  effort  of  the 
imagination,  to  recal  the  images,  the  bustle,  the  hair-breadth  'scapes, 
the  plaudits  of  the  animated  scene.  Just  under  the  wails  of  the  Cir- 
cus are  the  remains  of  two  temples,  one  of  which  was  dedicated  to 
Honour,  and  the  other  to  Virtue,  so  arranged  that  the  former  could 
not  be  reached  without  passing  through  the  latter — a  good  idea,  which 
belonged  to  Marcellus,  and  not  to  Caracalla,  a  monster  wlio  never 
found  either  of  the  temples.  The  Circus  is  now  the  property  of  Tor- 
Ionia,  the  celebrated  Roman  banker,  who  has  made  money  enough  to 
purchase  two  titles  of  nobility  ;  and  instead  of  giving  him  the  above 
familiar  appellation,  he  ought  perhaps  to  have  been  styled  the  Duke 
of  Bracciano.  He  however,  deserves  credit  for  the  excavations  he  has 
made  in  the  Circus,  and  the  specimens  of  the  arts  he  has  brought  to  light. 

Half  a  mile  on  the  road  towards  Rome,  we  paused  at  the  church 
of  St.  Sebastian,  where  sleeps  the  dust  of  that  martyr — and  descended 
into  the  catacombs,  the  dreary  asylum  of  the  early  christians  from 
the  cruelties  of  their  persecutors.  A  priest,  witii  his  lamps  from 
the  altar,  led  the  way.  Near  the  moutli  is  a  subterranean  chapel, 
where  the  tenants   of  these  dreary   abodes  used  to  worship  that 


190        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

God,  whom  they  durst  not  proclaim  in  the  hght  of  day.  We 
groped  our  way  througli  passages  so  low,  as  to  compel  us  to  stoop, 
occasionally  opening  into  little  cells,  which  were  at  once  tlie  homes 
and  the  graves  of  the  followers  of  the  Cross.  The  walls  are  full  of 
niches,  in  which  the  dead  bodies  of  their  families  were  placed  and 
sealed  up.  Numerous  inscriptions  are  found  in  these  caverns,  which 
are  artificially  dug  from  beds  of  tufo,  and  are  said  to  extend  to  Ostia, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Tiber,  a  distance  of  sixteen  miles. 

Turning  to  the  right  near  the  church  of  St.  Sebastian,  and  pur- 
suing a  solitary  path  through  a  field  skirted  with  woods,  we  soon 
found  ourselves  at  the  Fountain  of  Egeria,  whither  the  lawgiver  of 
Rome  used  to  retreat  from  the  bustle  of  his  infant  empire,  to  hold 
communion  with  the  ambiguous  goddess.  She  had  a  sweet  grotto, 
from  which  the  water  gushes  and  gurgles  into  the  grassy  vale  below, 
with  as  much  purity  as  ever.  The  retreat  opens  into  the  side  of  a 
hill,  to  the  depth  of  perhaps  thirty  feet,  witii  about  the  same  breadth 
at  the  entrance.  At  the  extremity  is  a  mutilated  statue,  in  a  recum- 
bent position,  supposed  by  some  to  be  Numa  himself.  In  the  sides 
of  the  grotto  are  some  ten  or  twelve  niches,  probably  intended  to  re- 
ceive the  rural  divinities.  The  fountain  is  overhung  by  a  tangled 
copse  of  ilex,  elm,  and  wild  shrubbery.  A  beautiful  grove  of  oak 
crowns  a  neighbouring  eminence,  and  the  retired  vale  of  the  Alraon, 
a  little  stream  celebrated  by  Ovid,  spreads  all  green  and  flowery  be- 
neath. On  the  whole,  the  political  sage  here  found  a  secluded  and 
rural  retreat,  equally  fit  for  the  lessons  of  wisdom  or  love. 

On  the  top  of  the  hill,  above  the  fountain,  are  the  remains  of  an 
ancient  temple,  said  to  have  been  consecrated  to  Bacchus,  or  the 
Muses,  but  more  probably  to  Apollo,  as  there  is  a  subterranean 
shrine,  whence  oracles  used  to  issue.  We  descended  into  the  sanctum 
sanctorum^  without  either  seeing  the  priestess  or  hearing  her  re- 
sponses. The  temple  is  now  metamorphosed  into  a  chapel,  with  its 
tiny  altar,  at  which  the  gray-friar  who  acted  as  our  guide  to  the  foun- 
tain of  Egeria,  seemed  to  be  the  sole  worshipper.  His  church  and 
dwelling  are  under  the  same  roof,  where  he  leads  the  life  of  a  hermit. 

I  have  visited  this  grotto  almost  as  often  as  old  Numa,  and  on  one 
occasion  at  an  earlier  hour,  than  he  probably  ever  saw  it,  unless  his 
nocturnal  consultations  were  prolonged  to  the  dawn.  Some  of  the 
guide-books  informpfl  v.:,  that  on  the  mormng  of  the  first  festa  in 
May,  the  Roman  girls  resort  thither,  and  twining  their  heads  with  gar- 
lands, dance  back  to  the  city  in  the  character  of  Bacchantes,  and 
in  honour  of  the  goddess  Egeria.  A  strong  desire  to  see  such  a 
classical  fete  induced  me  to  make  a  solitary  excursion  at  the  peep  of 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         191 

dawn,  crossing  in  my  way  the  Camp  of  Hannibal  long  before  tlic  hour 
of  parade  ;  but  the  brook  was  found  murmuring  on  in  perfect  solitude. 
It  is  but  justice  however  to  Madam  Starke  to  say,  that  her  "  informa- 
tion to  travellers"  in  this  instance  is  founded  in  truth  ;  for  in  returning 
to  Rome,  I  met  several  coaches  filled  with  belles  and  beaux  on  their 
way  to  the  Fountain,  as  also  a  band  of  music  and  a  corps  of  gens 
d'armes  to  keep  the  whole  in  order.  But  the  plebeian  company  looked 
so  unclassical  and  nnpoetical,  that  I  would  not  turn  back,  especially 
as  the  morning  was  rainy  and  unpleasant. 

In  another  excursion,  we  visited  the  Batlis  of  Titus,  on  the  Esqui- 
line  Hill,  and  the  Temple  of  Minerva  Medica,  near  the  gate  of  St. 
Lorenzo.  The  former  are  little  inferior  to  those  of  Caracalla  in  ex- 
tent ;  and  much  superior  in  interest.  Excavations  were  made  to  an 
immense  extent  by  the  French,  and  many  treasures  discovered.  There 
is  a  little  world  yet  to  be  explored,  in  long  subterranean  arches  filled 
with  many  species  of  rubbish.  Here  are  frescos  so  perfect,  that 
Raphael  is  said  to  have  borrowed  from  them  his  famous  cartoons. 
They  appear  as  fresh  and  vivid  in  colouring,  as  if  they  were  the  work 
of  yesterday.  A  fragment  of  Nero's  Golden  House  is  here  seen. 
These  ruins  are  extremely  picturesque,  situated  in  a  grassy  field,  on 
the  brow  of  the  Esquiline,  commanding  a  full  view  of  the  Coliseum. 
The  Gardens  of  Maecenas,  and  the  houses  of  Virgil  and  Horace  are 
supposed  to  have  been  in  the  vicinity. 

The  temple  of  Minerva  Medica  stands  in  the  midst  of  a  large 
kitchen  garden,  enriched  by  much  plebeian  dust ;  for  it  was  the  Pot- 
ter's Field  of  ancient  Rome,  and  the  bones  of  milhons  have  melted 
into  the  mellow  soil,  now  appropriated  to  the  cultivation  of  cabbages 
and  artichokes.  A  party  of  labourers  were  at  work  in  propping  the 
roof  and  walls  of  the  temple,  which  appear  ready  to  tumble  every 
moment.  The  ruin  is  a  Rotunda,  very  lofty,  and  among  the  most 
striking  at  Rome.  Fragments  have  fallen  from  the  roof,  leaving  nu- 
merous rents,  through  which  the  eye  sees  patches  of  the  blue  sky 
contrasted  with  the  dark,  intervening  masses. 

In  the  Gardens  of  Sallust,  near  the  Porta  Pia,  we  had  a  long  ram- 
ble ;  for  they  cover  many  acres  witli  a  suitable  variety  of  hill  and  dale, 
appearing  almost  like  the  country.  They  afford  a  very  charming  view 
of  the  Alban  Mount  and  the  environs  of  Rome.  The  mind  recurs 
with  pleasure  to  the  period,  when  the  philosophical  historian,  sick  of 
the  intrigues  of  courts  and  of  the  dissipation  of  fiishionable  circles, 
retired  to  these  classic  shades  to  enjoy  his  wealth  and  devote  the  rem- 
nant of  his  life  to  literary  labours.  His  house  is  said  to  have  occupied 
tlic  brow  of  an  eminence,  looking  into  a  deep  retired  vale,  whicli  ex- 


192         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

tended  under  the  old  walls  of  the  city,  where  some  of  the  foundations 
are  still  visible,  exhibiting  the  substantial  masonry  of  the  Republic. 
On  the  borders  of  the  ravine,  a  vault  is  shown,  in  which  it  is  said  the 
Vestal  Virgins,  who  had  violated  their  vows  were  buried  alive,  and 
left  to  starve.  This  was  the  mode  of  punishment ;  but  the  locus  in 
quo  seems  to  be  doubtful.  Several  empty  casks  in  the  vicinity,  ren- 
der it  more  probable,  that  this  subterranean  dungeon  has,  at  least  in 
modern  times,  been  used  as  a  wine-cellar  !  But  I  doubt  nothing,  and 
let  it  therefore  be,  that  the  recreant  Vestals  here  suffered.  The 
works  of  art  found  in  these  gardens  have  enriched  all  the  galleries  in 
Italy. 

One  day  was  occupied  in  an  excursion  to  Tivoh,  distant  eighteen 
miles.  Our  party,  consisting  of  four,  left  Rome  at  6  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  through  the  gate  of  St,  Lorenzo,  and  thence  across  the 
Campagna  in  nearly  a  direct  line,  following  the  old  Tiburtine  road, 
remains  of  which,  in  the  shape  of  large  and  ill-joined  blocks  of  stone, 
are  more  frequently  seen  and  felt  than  the  traveller  wishes.  Two  or 
three  miles  from  the  gate,  we  passed  the  large  church  of  St.  Lorenzo, 
girt  with  solitudes,  and  dependant  on  pilgrims  from  Rome  for  wor- 
shippers at  its  altars.  The  walls  of  Rome  are  flanked  on  all  sides  by 
these  straggling  churches,  extending  beyond  the  limits  of  population, 
and  taking  the  places  as  it  were  of  fortresses  in  ordinary  cities.  With 
the  exception  of  St.  Angelo,  his  Holiness  makes  use  of  no  other  ar- 
tillery for  the  defence  of  the  city,  than  the  papal  thunders  of  the  Va- 
tican, and  the  terror  of  these  has  in  a  great  measure  ceased.* 

A  mile  or  two  beyond  the  church  of  St.  Lorenzo,  we  crossed  the 
Anio,  a  narrow  and  turbid  stream,  shooting  its  clay-coloured,  impetu- 
ous current  across  the  level  of  the  Campagna  with  an  unaccountable 
velocity.  On  the  left  bank,  bordering  upon  the  road,  the  eye  is  ena- 
bled yet  to  trace  the  lines  of  circumvallation,  extending  round  another 
camp  of  Hannibal,  where  he  passed  a  considerable  part  of  the  six- 
teen years  he  was  in  Italy,  and  thence  made  sorties,  on  one  occasion 
approaching  so  near,  as  to  throw  a  dart  over  the  ramparts  into  the 
city.  The  Romans,  with  all  their  characteristic  bravery,  were  afraid 
of  the  old  Carthaginian  ;  and  when  he  broke  up  his  encampment  near 


■•'  The  Emperor  of  Austria  issued  an  edict,  prohibiting  any  of  his  Italian  sub- 
jects from  leaving  their  business  and  their  homes,  to  perform  pilgrimages  to  Rome. 
This  gave  umbrage  to  the  present  Pope,  who  threatened  excommunication  if  the 
decree  v?ere  not  revoked.  But  the  former  persisted  in  his  wholesome  regulation, 
and  the  latter  found  to  his  surprise,  that  he  had  stubborn  subjects,  even  in  the 
members  of  the  Holy  Alliance, 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         103 

the  Appian  Way,  alluded  to  in  a  former  paragraph,  ihcy  erected  a 
temple  upon  the  site  of  his  head-quarters,  in  token  of  their  joy  at  his 
return  to  the  south.  How  dilierent  was  this  monument  from  a  trium- 
])hal  arch !  The  ruins  of  it,  called  the  Redlcolo  (from  the  word  redfo, 
to  return)  are  still  seen  upon  the  plain — little  creditable  to  Roman 
valour. 

The  aspect  of  the  Campagna,  in  the  direction  of  Tivoli,  is  very 
similar  to  that  of  the  region  already  described,  stretching  from  the 
heights  of  Baccano  to  Ihe  gates  of  Rome.  If  possible,  it  is  here 
more  utterly  destitute  of  population.  You  ride  for  miles  and  miles 
without  seeing  a  habitation,  which  could  serve  for  even  a  temporary 
shelter  to  the  traveller.  Yet  the  country  is  far  from  being  sterile.  The 
licdge-rowp,  which  have  spontaneously  sprung  up  along  the  way,  com- 
posed of  shrubs  of  diflerent  kinds,  and  among  the  rest  of  the  wild 
rose,  blooming  in  the  desert,  exhibit  a  depth  of  foliage  at  once  rich 
and  luxuriant,  reminding  one  very  frequently  of  the  borders  of  the  roads 
in  the  United  States.  What  a  phenomenon  is  liere ! — a  rich  soil  in 
the  environs  of  a  populous  city,  with  none  to  sow,  or  reap  a 
harvest !  Let  the  traveller  turn  his  head,  and  survey  the  dome  of  St. 
Peter's,  rising  above  the  proud  pile  of  the  Vatican — and  the  riddle  is 
explained.  The  whole  of  these  vast  tracts  form  a  part  of  the  patri- 
jnony  of  the  Saint,  whose  temporal  dominions  have  fallen  into  as  un- 
i'ortunate  hands,  as  the  keys  of  his  spiritual  treasures.  Here  and  there 
Jierds  of  horses,  cattle,  sheep,  and  goats,  with  a  shepherd  and  his  at- 
tendant dogs,  were  observed  straying  over  fields  literally  reddened  by 
the  poppy. 

Five  or  six  miles  on  this  side  of  Tivoli,  wc  left  the  coach  and  walk- 
ed or  rather  ran,  (for  a  shower  was  impending,)  a  short  distance  to 
the  left  of  the  road,  to  visit  the  small  lake  called  Tartarus,  which  petri- 
fies every  thing  coming  in  contact  with  its  waters.  Tlie  formation  about 
its  clay-coloured  and  sterile  shores  almost  exactly  resembles  ground 
raised  by  the  frost,  the  .stalactitps  heaving  up  beds  of  the  soil  upon  their 
little  columns.  No  mineral  properties  are  perceptible  in  the  taste  of 
the  waters,  which  are  turbid  and  of  the  same  complexion  with  the 
borders.  Soon  after  joining  our  carriage,  pelted  by  the  storm,  we 
crossed  the  stream  issuing  from  lake  Solfatara,  which  is  about  the  widtli 
of  an  ordinary  canal,  and  hurries  towards  the  Anio  with  the  rapidity 
of  a  mill-sluice'.  The  water  is  of  the  colour  of  the  Nar,  and  the  smell 
of  sulphur  is  so  strong,  as  to  be  perceived  at  the  distance  of  half  a 
mile  or  more  on  either  side.  Upon  the  bridge,  the  stench  is  almost 
insupportable.  It  is  said  a  temple  sacred  to  Apollo  once  stood  upon 
the  shores  of  the  lake.     One  would  suppose  the  shrine  might  with 

VOL.  11.  25 


194         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

much  greater  propriety  have  been  dedicated  to  Pluto,  as  he  dealt 
more  largely  in  brimstone,  than  the  god  of  the  bow  and  lyre.  The 
Muses  would  turn  up  their  noses  at  his  robes,  steaming  with  the  fumes 
of  Solfatara.  These  waters,  anciently  denominated  the  Aquce  Alhulm 
from  their  white  complexion,  were  once  conducted  to  Rome  and  used 
in  the  baths.  They  would  no  doubt  prove  efficacious  in  certain  cuta- 
neous diseases. 

In  leaving  the  Campagna,  we  again  crossed  the  Anio,  and  passing 
the  ivy-mantled  tomb  of  Lucanus,  almost  exactly  resembling  that  of 
Ceciha  Metella,  we  commenced  winding  up  the  high  ridge  of  the 
Apennines,  on  the  summit  of  which  Tivoh,  (the  ancient  Tibur,)  is 
seated.  The  brow  of  the  hill,  looking  across  the  Campagna,  and  com- 
manding a  view  of  Rome,  is  strewed  with  the  ruins  of  ancient  villas, 
among  which  was  the  country  seat  of  Cassius.  Tibur  was  even  a 
more  fashionable  resort  than  Mont  Albanus,  and  every  inch  of  ground 
was  occupied  by  patrician  lodges. 

In  the  scenery  of  the  far-famed  Tivoli,  we  were  sadly  disappointed. 
The  charms  of  its  mountains,  woods,  and  waters  have  been  exagge- 
rated beyond  all  bounds.  Perhaps  these  extravagant  eulogies  led  us 
to  underrate  the  reality.  The  hills  are  too  humble  and  uniform  to  bor- 
der on  grandeur ;  too  naked  and  ungraceful  in  their  outlines,  to  be 
either  picturesque  or  beautiful.  One  might  gaze  forever  at  these 
smooth  round  swells,  without  feeling  an  emotion  of  any  kind.  The 
distant  view,  extending  to  Soracte  and  one  or  two  eminences  on  this 
side,  capped  with  villages — to  Mont  Albano —  to  the  Seven  Hills  them- 
selves, lifting  their  load  of  ruins  above  the  level  of  the  Campagna,  is 
worth  all  the  rest  of  Tivoli.  If  there  were  any  thing  naturally  beau- 
tiful in  the  scenery,  it  would  be  destroyed  by  a  dirty,  populous,  mo- 
dern town,  half  way  between  a  city  and  a  village,  with  neither  the 
grandeur  of  the  one  nor  the  rusticity  of  the  other.  The  clack  of 
mills,  turned  by  the  headlong  Anio*  of  Horace,  and  the  rattling  of 


•*  "  Nee  tam  Larissje  percussit  campus  opimsc, 
^  Quam  domus  Albuneae  resonantis, 
Et  prseceps  Anio,  et  Tiburrii  lucos,  et  uda 
^  Mobilia  pomaria  rivis." 

U  would  appear  from  this  passage,  and  still  more  clearly  from  the  following  lines  of 
Virgil,  that  the  scenery  about  the  falls  of  Tivoli  has  undergone  a  radical  change  : 

"  At  rex,  sollicitus  monstris,  oracula  Fauni 
Fatidici  genitoris  adit,  lucosque  sub  alta 
Consulit  Albunea,  nemorum  quae  maxima  sacro 
Fonte  sonat,  saevamque  exhalat  opaca  mephitim." 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         195 

our  coach-wheels  over  tlie  rough  pavements  of  the  streets,  broke  all 
my  classical  and  romantic  dreams,  which  neither  the  sound  of  cas- 
cades nor  the  echo  of  the  rocks  could  restore.  An  unwelcome  idea 
of  mili-privileg'es  was  constantly  obtruding  itself  among  images  bor- 
rowed from  poetry  ;  and  one  could  not  liclp  thinking,  that  tiie  Anio 
might  have  been  lashed  into  foam  by  water-wheels,  instead  of  whitened 
by  the  crags  of  its  own  precipices.  ' 

But  here  we -were,  and  it  has  been  an  invariable  rule  in  our  rambles, 
never  to  neglect  the  means  of  being  pleased.  So  leaving  our  car- 
riage at  the  iiotel  of  La  Sibilla,  and  procuring  a  cicerone,  we  at 
once  commenced  a  round  of  observations.  Nearly  all  that  is  worth 
seeing  was  finished  in  twenty  minutes  after  our  arrival.  The  first  ob- 
ject is  the  temple  of  Vesta,  seated  upon  a  cliff  which  may  almost  be 
said  to  overhang  the  upper  fall.  Its  position  is  extremely  romantic, 
looking  down  upon  the  Anio  far  beneath,  and  abroad  upon  the  hills 
sweeping  round  in  semicircular  ridges.  The  temple  is  a  beautiful 
Rotunda,  of  nearly  the  same  size  and  construction,  as  the  one  already 
described  on  the  bank  of  the  Tiber  at  Rome.  Its  portico  of  fluted 
Corinthian  pillars  is  extremely  rich,  and  all  its  decorations  are  of  the 
chastest  kind.  Its  anti([uity  is  undoubted,  though  it  has  sustained 
scarcely  a  single  mutilation,  either  from  the  hand  of  time  or  the  bar- 
barian. An  EnErlish  nobleman,  (Lord  Bristol,  I  believe,)  offered 
something  like  £20,((00  for  tiie  building,  with  an  intention  of  re- 
moving it  to  his  Park !  The  bargain  was  about  to  be  struck,  when 
his  Holiness  interfered,  and  broke  off' a  negotiation  worthy  of  a  more 
Gothic  age  than  the  present. 

Within  a  few  paces  and  on  the  verge  of  the  same  cliff,  stood  the  tem- 
ple of  the  Tiburtine  Sibyl,  whose  name  was  Albunea,  and  who  seems 
to  have  held  a  high  rank  among  the  prophetic  sisterhood,  though  infe- 
rior to  her  Cuma^an  rival.  Her  oracles  are  now  silent,  and  a  religion, 
resting  for  its  truth  upon  "  a  more  sure  word  of  prophecy,"  is  substi- 
tuted in  their  place.  The  shrine  is  in  rums,  and  the  few  Ionic  pillars, 
which  survived  the  wreck,  have  been  incorporated  into  the  church 
erected  upon  the  site,  and  are  seen  in  the  facade  fronting  the  cliff.  It 
was  the  oldest  temple  at  Tivoli,  and  as  the  mode  of  worshi[)  probably 
had  some  peculiarities,  its  demolition  is  a  subject  of  regret  to  the 
scholar. 


No  traces  of  the  groves  and  orchards  of  Horace,  or  (he  forests  of  Virgil  are  now 
to  be  found.  It  would  seem,  that  in  the  Augustan  age,  tiie  whole  declivity  of  the 
A;ennines,  from  the  walls  to  the  lake  of  Solfatara  was  covered  with  deep  woods. 


I9G        LETTERS  FR031  EUROPE. 

While  the  French  held  possession  of  Italy,  the  commanding  officer 
in  this  department  constructed  a  terraced  walk  from  the  cliffs  in  front 
of  these  buildings,  to  the  foot  of  the  principal  cascade,  called  the  Grot- 
to of  Neptune.  These  rocks  seem  to  have  been  all  formed  by  accre- 
tion, within  the  memory  of  man,  and  since  the  invention  of  implements 
now  in  common  use.  On  the  right  of  the  path  in  descending  to  the 
water,  we  examined  a  perfect  impression  of  a  carriage  wheel,  which 
had  evidently  been  buried  and  bedded  for  ages  in  solid  masses  of  se- 
condary formation.  The  prints  of  iron  bars  and  other  instruments  of 
labour  have  been  found  at  the  depth  of  several  feet  below  the  surface. 
Yet  the  cliffs  on  which  the  temples  stand  must  have  remained  unchang- 
ed for  at  least  two  thousand  years. 

The  Grotto  of  Neptune  is  a  high-sounding  appellation  ;  and  although 
it  might  be  large  enough  for  Horace's  "■  domus  Albuneac^'' — the  domi- 
cil  of  the  Sibyl,  or  the  retreat  of  a  Naiad,  it  is  hardly  worthy  of  the  god 
of  ocean.  If  he  ever  held  his  court  beneath  its  pendant  rocks,  fanned 
by  the  descent  of  the  cascade,  he  must  have  travelled  thither  by  land  ; 
for  the  current  of  the  Anio  is  not  broad  enough  for  his  pathway,  nor 
its  depth  sufficient  to  put  the  wheels  of  his  chariot  in  motion.  The 
stream  divides  in  the  hills  above,  and  nearly  one  half  of  it  is  diverted 
through  the  town  for  mechanical  purposes  :  the  residue  here  leaps  a 
perpendicular  cliff,  something  like  eighty  feet  in  height,  working  itself 
into  a  fury  in  the  descent,  fiUing  the  twilight  and  misty  cavern  with  its 
echoes.  Vopiscus,  an  old  Roman,  had  a  seat  hanging  upon  the  very 
verge  of  the  precipice.  Some  traces  of  it  are  yet  visible.  Salvator 
Rosa  has  sketched  this  scene  ;  but  the  guide-books  inform  us  that  even 
his  pencil  could  not  do  justice  to  its  sublimity  and  beauty.  Who  ever 
saw  any  but  a  tame  picture  of  a  waterfall  ?  Two  of  the  most  promi- 
nent concomitants,  sound  and  motion,  are  necessarily  excluded  ;  and 
without  these,  a  sheet  of  water  upon  the  canvass,  if  as  high  as  Olym- 
pus, cannot  excite  an  emotion. 

At  a  little  distance  below,  the  Anio  makes  another  descent  of  nearly 
equal  height ;  and  here  is  a  second  cavern,  similar  to  the  Grotto  of 
Neptune,  denominated  the  Grotto  of  the  Sirens.  But  I  leave  the  mu- 
sical sisterhood  to  sing  on  undisturbed,  and  by  their  sweet  incantations 
to  seduce  other  footsteps  to  their  watery  abode,  while  we  ascend  the 
cHffs,  mount  our  donkies,  and  commence  an  excursion  of  four  miles — 
particularly  recommended  by  the  cicerone,  who  cheerfully  walked,  for 
the  sake  of  seeing  us  ride.  It  was  the  oddest  lot  of  beasts,  which  all 
the  Italian  stables  have  afforded.  Their  tails  much  resembled  the  cues^, 
of  the  last  century  ;  and  a  single  rope  tied  about  the  small  of  the  neck 
was  the  only  helm  to  their  stubborn  dispositions. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         107 

Willi  such  an  outfit,  we  crossed  the  bridge  of  the  Anio  in  grand  pro- 
cession and  stumbled  over  the  circuit,  looking  alternately  at  the  hills 
above,  and  tlic  waters  foaming  below,  talking  all  the  while  of  Horace, 
Mecaenas,  Quintilius  Varus,  et  id  omne  genus,  whose  houses  we  pass- 
ed on  the  route.  The  credulity  of  rny  classical  friend  was  somewhat 
severely  put  to  the  test,  and  his  logical  deductions  not  very  satisfacto- 
rily answered  by  the  positive  assurances  of  the  cicerone.  My  mode  of 
arguing  led  to  less  scepticism — thus  :  these  great  men  must  have 
lived  somewhere  :  tradition  says  they  lived  here  :  in  the  absence  of 
better  evidence,  let  tradition  be  followed :  so  let  us  make  ourselves 
comfortable  with  the  belief,  that  the  lyric  poet  and  his  patron  here 
dwelt,  elevated  upon  the  brow  and  nestled  in  the  shades  of  the  Apen- 
nines, soothed  by  the  murmurs  of  the  Anio,  and  peeping  out  occasion- 
ally upon  the  distant  city,  v/hich  their  genius  and  taste  had  embellished. 

The  Cascades  of  Tivoli,  technically  so  called  in  contradistinction  to 
the  falls  already  described,  consist  of  six  or  seven  streamlets,  gushing 
out  from  the  foundations  of  the  town,  through  which  they  have  been 
made  to  pass,  and  descending  in  silver  threads  down  a  green  declivity 
of  80  or  100  feet.  We  rode  into  the  depth  of  the  vale,  which  is  rural 
and  quiet,  and  took  a  view  from  every  possible  position.  The  epithet 
pretty  is  the  very  highest  that  can  be  applied  to  these  hackneyed  waters, 
divested  of  their  native  freshness  and  purity  in  passing  through  a  dirty 
town.  Crossing  the  lower  bridge  of  the  Anio,  we  chmbed  a  high  hill 
on  the  old  Valerian  Way,  constructed  in  the  same  manner  as  the  road 
already  described.  Classical  as  ancient  Tibur  was,  it  seems  to  have 
worshipped  strange  gods.  A  ruin  was  observed  on  our  way,  which 
goes  by  the  name  of  Templo  della  Tossa — the  temple  of  Cough.  Who 
was  she  ? — a  new  divinity  in  the  calendar.  But  the  cicerone  contended 
that  the  shrine  of  the  goddess  of  Cough  was  not  to  be  sneezed  at — and 
so  we  gave  it  a  cursory  examination.  It  very  nearly  resembled  the 
temple  of  IMinerva  Medica  at  Rome  ;  and  as  colds  were  prevalent  in 
the  Apennines,  it  was  perhaps  consecrated  to  the  healing  deity.  But 
I  have  no  time  to  waste  on  conjectures,  and  no  wish  to  stop  at  the  Ca- 
thedral, which  occupies  the  site  of  the  temple  of  Hercules. 

After  dining  on  fish  from  the  Anio,  at  the  hotel  of  the  Sibyl,  (a  double 
hit  at  the  classics,)  we  descended  rapidly  to  the  Villa  of  Adrian,  on 
the  left  of  the  road,  situated  upon  another  spur  of  the  mountains,  com- 
manding a  view  as  wide  as  that  of  Tivoli.  The  ruins  are  very  exten- 
sive, and  so  perfect,  that  the  construction  and  style  of  the  buildings 
may  be  distinctly  traced.  Adrian  was  an  Emperor  of  boundless 
wealth,  {ex  officio,)  fond  of  luxury,  of  some  taste,  a  great  traveller, 
enamoured  of  the  Greek  philosophy,  and  the  religion  of  Egypt.     All 


198        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

these  traits  of  character  have  been  exemplified  in  the  ornaments  of 
his  Villa,  which  covers  many  acres.  A  poor  old  man,  who  is  the 
last  and  sole  tenant  of  the  ruins,  save  the  wild  beasts  and  birds  from 
the  hills,  conducted  us  through  theatres,  amphitheatres,  and  nauma- 
chise;  through  Porches  and  Academies,  the  imperial  walks  of  philo- 
sophers; throutjh  the  temples  and  shrines  of  Serapis  and  isis,  Egyptian 
divinities;  through  Batiisand  Libraries  ofcolossaldimensions  ;  through 
palaces,  halls,  and  saloons,  still  exhibiting  traces  of  their  gilded  ceil- 
ings and  splendid  frescos ;  and  last,  though  not  least  in  extent,  through 
the  stables  of  the  Eiiiperor. 

Extensive  excavations  have  been  made  among  the  ruins ;  and  the 
innumerable  statues  here  disinterred  now  fill  the  galleries  of  Italy.  It 
must  not  be  forgotten,  that  the  peerless  goddess  of  the  Arno  was  found 
entombed  among  the  meaner  rubbish  of  the  Villa,  Nature  is  fast  re- 
suming her  sylvan  empire  over  the  wreck  of  buried  splendour.  A  lux- 
uriant growth  of  woods,  consisting  of  pine,  cypress,  and  ilex,  now 
shades  the  ruins.  Among  these  wild  trees,  a  beautiful  shrub  was  ob- 
served, the  name  of  which  has  escaped  my  memory.  Our  old  guide 
said,  that  Adrian  brought  it  with  him  from  Egypt;  and  it  still  lingers 
in  the  deserted  gardens,  hanging  its  white  and  flagrant  blossoms,  as  if 
out  of  respect  to  the  memory  of  its  former  protector. 

On  our  return  across  the  Campa<fna,  we  narrowly  escaped  a  tre- 
mendous tempest.  The  rain  descended  in  torrents,  and  the  thunder- 
bolts fell  fast  and  heavy.  A  scene  of  so  much  grandeur  called  to  mind 
one  of  Virgil's  finest  descriptions,  which  my  classical  friend  repeated 
to  us,  while  the  peals  were  rattling  round  the  domes  and  echoing  among 
the  ruins  of  the  Capital.  Sublime  as  the  imagery  of  the  poet  is,  it  did 
not  transcend  the  grandeur  of  the  reality. 

Thus  have  !  finished  all  that  will  be  said  of  Rome  at  present.  The 
palaces  and  churches,  with  the  innumerable  works  of  art  they  contain; 
the  Villas  and  (iardens  ;  the  galleries  of  modern  artists  ;  religious  ce- 
remonies and  public  amusements,  with  a  hundred  other  topics,  must 
be  postponed  till  my  return  from  Naples — a  respite  to  which  my  read- 
ers will  doubtless  have  no  objection.  I  hardly  dare  look  back  at  the 
extent  of  this  sketch,  or  the  manner  in  which  it  has  been  executed. 
It  is  an  old  story  which  has  been  told  a  thousand  times ;  and  whoever 
has  had  the  patience  to  follow  me,  with  the  expectation  of  finding  any 
thing  new,  has  probably  been  sadly  disappointed. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         199 

LETTER  LXI. 

DEPARTVRE   FOK   NAPLES — ALBAN  MOUNT — ARICIA — GENZANO VELLE- 

TKI PONTINE  iMARSHES TERRaCINA ENTRANCE  OF  THE  NEAPOLI- 
TAN   DOMINIONS — FONDI ITRI — MAUSOLEUM    OF    CICERO — BIOLA     DI 

GAETA. 

May,  1826. 

From  Rome  to  Naples,  a  distance  of  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  we 
made  an  experiment  of  another  kind  of  conveyance.  Our  friends,  and 
fellow-travellers,  contrary  to  their  previous  arrangements,  and  in  search 
of  a  milder  climate  than  had  been  found  upon  the  banks  of  the  Tiber,* 
concluded  to  accompany  us  to  the  South  of  Italy  ;  and  with  the  double 
view  of  economy  and  of  sociability,  a  coach  with  four  horses  wasengaged 
to  take  us  to  Naples  in  two  days  and  a  half.  The  vetturino  promised, 
that  he  would  send  on  word  in  advance,  for  every  thing  to  be  in  readi- 
ness, to  prevent  any  unnecessary  delay  ;  but  this  stipulation  proved  to 
be  all  a  sham,  as  will  every  other  agreement  with  these  contractors, 
which  is  not  reduced  to  writing. 

At  one  o'clock  on  the  afternoon  of  the  8th,  we  made  our  exit  through 
the  Neapolitan  Gate,  (the  Porta  di  San  Giovanni,)  and  not  without 
many  lingering  regrets,  saw  the  domes  and  towers  and  ramparts  and 
ruins  of  the  city  rapidly  receding  from  our  view.  There  is  a  charm 
about  Rome  which  no  other  place  in  an  equal  degree  possesses  ;  and 
its  localities,  so  far  from  tiring,  grow  daily  upon  the  heart  of  the  tra- 
veller, notwithstanding  the  slight  deductions  that  are  frequently  to  be 
made  from  his  pleasures.  My  sketch  may  have  wholly  failed  to  convey 
to  the  reader  an  adequate  idea,  in  what  that  interest  consists ;  but  so 
it  is,  and  the  capital  of  Italy  in  ruins  is  worth  more  than  both  London 
and  Paris  put  together,  at  the  height  of  their  splendour.  It  is  in  vain 
to  attempt  either  to  reason  or  laugh  people  out  of  their  notions,  as 
Lady  Morgan  has  endeavoured  to  do,  very  little  to  the  credit  of  her 
taste  or  feeling.  Nine  visitants  out  often,  whatever  may  be  their  rank 
and  occupation  in   life,  whether  acquainted  with  the  classics  or  not, 


*  The  weather  was  colder  at  Rome  than  it  had  been  found  three  weeks  before 
ill  the  vale  of  the  Arno.  A  fire  was  kept  up  in  our  chamber?  every  night  during 
our  stay.  Much  rain  fell,  and  the  winds  were  frequently  chilly  and  piercing.  On 
going  out  one  morning,  about  ths  first  of  May.  the  hill?  about  Tivoli  and  Mont 
Albano  were  observed  covered  with  a  coat  of  new-fallen  ?now,  and  the  air  was  so 
keen  as  to  Jriv#aome  of  our  party  back  to  the  comlbrts  of  the  fire-side. 


200        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

differ  with  her  in  sentiment,  and  her  broad  ridicule  has  entirely  failed  of 
its  intended  effect.  Her  indiscriminate  raillery  is  the  more  to  be  re-^ 
gretted,  as  the  general  tendency  of  her  book  favours  the  principles  of 
rational  freedom.  The  greatest  defect  pervading  the  whole  of  her  two 
volumes  on  Italy,  may  be  traced  to  an  ambition  of  saying  something 
original  on  a  subject,  which  in  truth  admits  of  very  little  originality, 
without  contravening  the  principles  of  correct  taste,  and  the  common 
sense  of  mankind. 

The  aspect  of  the  Campagna,  between  the  gates  of  Rome  and  Mont 
Albano,  over  the   brow  of  which  the  Neapolitan   road  passes,  very 
nearly  resembles  that  of  the  two  routes  from  the  heights  of  Baccano 
and  to  Tivoli,  already  described.     If  possible,  if  is  more  desolate  than 
the  former,  and  certainly  more  sterile  than  the  latter.     A  post-house 
is  almost  the  only  settlement  to  break  the  solitude,  or  furnish  a  refuge 
to^  travellers  in  cases  of  necessity.     Fortunately  none  was  needed  by 
us,  in  a  ride  of  two  or  three  hours.     Soon  after  leaving  the  gates  of 
the  city,  the  road  joins  the  old  Appian  Way,  and  thence  pursues  it  to 
Capua,  within  fifteen  mdes  of  Naples,  though  few  or  no  traces  of  it 
are  visible  in  the  first  part  of  the  journey.     At  the  foot  of  the  Alban 
Mount,  we  passed  an  old  tower  on  the  left,  which  antiquaries  call  the 
Tomb  of  Ascanius,  and  others  that  of  Clodius.     It  is  very  doubtful  to 
which  it  belonged,  if  indeed  to  either.     The  latter  in  his  return  to 
Rome'  along  the  Appian  Way,  near  this  spot  was  met  and  murdered 
by  Milo  and  his  party.     They  pretend  to   show  the  very  house  into 
which  Claudius  was  carried,  and  where  he  died  of  his  wounds.     Such 
a  tradition  outrages  beUef.     If  few  of  the  most  substantial  and  conspi- 
cuous works  of  the  Republic  have  been  preserved,  and  are  now  dis- 
cernible, it  is  wholly  incredible  that  a  private  dwelling,  celebrated  by 
an  event  of  comparatively  little  importance  should  survive.     Beyond 
the  gates  of  Albano,  close  to  the  path,  there  is  another  ambiguous  mo- 
nument, by  some  considered  the  mausoleum  of  the  Curiatii,  and  by 
others,  the  cenotaph  of  Pompey.     The  former  were  born  on  the  Al- 
ban Mount,  and  the  latter  there  had  a  Villa,  which  seem  to  be  the 
strongest  circumstances  in  favour  of  either  opinion.     Some  have  pre- 
tended to  discover  traces  of  Egyptian  architecture  in  the  turrets,  which 
crown  the  monument,  contending  that  they  were  designed  to  convey 
an  allusion  to  the  death  of  the  Triumvir  on  the  sands  of  the  Nile.     But 
I  leave  these  nice  points  to  be  settled,  or  more  properly  to  be  discuss- 
cd,  by  antiquaries.     It  is  certain  that  the  mausoleum,  to  whomsoever 
it  belonged,  is  fast  sinkmg  into  decay,  notwithstanding  all  the  attempts 
to  prop  its  tottering  age  ;  and  it  appears  to  be  equally  certain,  that  the 
site  of  the  combat  between  the  Horatii  and  Curiatii  was  on  the  Cam- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        201 

pagna,  about  five  miles  from  Rome,  not  far  from  the  tomb  of  Cecilia 
Metella,  wliere  tradition  says  they  were  buried. 

As  it  is  our  intention  to  linger  a  day  or  two  about  the  Alban  Mount, 
on  our  return  from  the  south,  for  the  purpose  of  examining  its  villages 
and  antiquities,  I  shall  say  little  on  the  subject  at  present,  reserving 
my  remarks  till  its  interesting  objects  have  been  more  fully  examined. 
We  made  no  stay,  and  our  only  views  were  taken  from  the  carriage. 
But  even  in  passing  hastily  over  the  Mount,  its  magnificent  scenery 
could  not  escape  observation.  Rome  seated  in  majesty  upon  her  hills, 
and  girt  with  her  eternal  solitudes — the  little  lake  of  Turnus  slumber- 
ing and  gleaming  in  the  depth  oftlie  Campagna — the  scene  of  the  last 
six  books  of  the  ^neid  spreading  to  the  right — the  sea  and  its  lonely 
borders  beyond — the  woody  top  of  Mont  Algidum  on  the  left — with 
ihe  natural,  rich,  and  rural  scenery  which  skirted  the  road,  formed  fea- 
tures in  a  landscape  too  bold  not  to  arrest  attention  and  give  delight 
to  the  imagination.  Much  of  the  territory  on  the  declivities  of  Mont 
Albano  has  returned  fully  to  a  state  of  nature,  and  the  luxuriance  of 
the  foliage  affords  a  grateful  relief  to  the  eye,  accustomed  to  the  waste 
of  the  Campagna.  The  Arician  groves  looked  as  fresh,  as  if  the  spi- 
rit of  some  modern  Ilippolytus*  forbade  the  brute  creation  to  intrude 
upon  the  sacred  precincts,  and  the  copses  were  as  tangled  and  green, 
as  when  they  shaded  the  shrine  of  Dian,  or  formed  the  sylvan  retreat 
of  Egeria. 

Aricia  is  a  small  town,  pleasantly  situated  upon  a  round  swell  of  the 
mountain,  fifteen  miles  from  Rome.  It  keeps  up  the  formality  of  walls 
and  gates,  as  certain  noblemen  wear  their  titles,  in  the  midst  of  pover- 
ty and  degradation.  A  Convent  of  Benedictines  and  a  very  stately 
new  church,  yet  in  an  unfinished  condition,  cover  nearly  half  the  area 
of  the  town,  which  appears  to  be  as  full  of  mendicants,  as  it  was  in  the 
age  of  Juvenal.  But  the  period  has  long  since  gone  by,  when  begga- 
ry can  be  set  down  as  a  characteristic  peculiarity  of  any  of  the  Italian 
villages.  Horace  reached  Aricia  the  first  night,  in  his  notable  tour 
from  Rome  to  Brundusium,  which  coincides  precisely  with  the  mo- 
dern route  to  Naples.  His  journal,  brief  as  it  is,  and  filled  with  trifling 
incidents,  such  as  any  tourist  would  be  likely  to  note  on  a  road  with 


■*  Horses  refused  to  enter  the  ancient  forest  of  Aricia,  because  Hippolytus,  the 
founder  of  the  town  after  his  resurrection  by  ^Esculapius  and  his  transportation  by 
Diana,  had  been  dashed  to  pieces  by  his  frightened  steeds.  See  the  amusing^, 
though  absurd  fable  of  Hippolytus  in  the  7th  book  of  the  iRneid.  Virgil  makes 
Aricia  the  parent  city.  The  nymph  Egeria  seems  here  to  have  had  her  country 
seat. 

VOL.  U.  26 


202        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

whicli  every  body  was  supposed  to  be  acquainted,  was  the  most  agree- 
able of  all  our  itineraries,  and  furnished  a  constant  fund  of  amusement. 
We  accomphshed  his  first  day's  ride  in  two  hours  and  a  half.  But 
then  he  and  his  learned  companion  Heliodorus  probably  lounged  upon 
the  way,  and  read  the  Greek  classics  in  the  coach,  just  as  the  Latin 
poets  were  perused  by  us.  Perhaps  he  paused  to  make  a  call  on  a 
country  friend  ;  or  some  Lydia  or  Lalage  detained  him  for  the  night. 
At  all  events,  it  would  be  very  unsafe,  as  certain  writers  have  done,  to 
adopt  the  stages  of  a  capricious  poet  on  a  tour  of  pleasure,  as  a  stand- 
ard of  the  Roman  rate  of  travelling.  Caesar's  progress  in  advancing 
to  meet  an  enemy  was  very  different.  The  Appian  Way  was  not  in- 
ferior to  modern  roads ;  and  in  an  age  when  chariot  races  were  so 
fashionable,  it  is  not  likely  the  Romans  were  deficient  in  coaches  or 
horsemanship. 

Genzano,  a  little  town  four  miles  from  Aricia,  is  celebrated  for  the 
beauty  of  its  female  peasantry.  Great  numbers  of  them  were  seen  at 
Rome  during  some  extraordinary  festa — easily  distinguishable  from 
their  neighbours,  by  a  difference  of  costume  as  well  as  of  features.  It 
is  astonishing  with  what  distinctness  the  local  fashions  of  these  villages 
are  preserved.  Often  within  the  distance  of  a  mile  or  two — an  inter- 
val which  would  be  instantly  annihilated  in  the  tendency  to  amalgama- 
tion in  our  country — the  barriers  of  prejudice  have  been  kept  up  cen- 
tury after  century,  and  the  circumscribed  districts  rigidly  adhere  to 
their  peculiarities  in  dress,  character,  manners,  and  habits.  St.  Pe- 
ter's or  St.  John  Lateran  on  a  holiday,  when  all  the  peasantry  from  the 
country  in  the  vicinity  flock  to  Rome,  presents  an  assemblage  divisible 
into  strongly  marked  castes,  and  as  party-coloured  in  their  costumes 
as  the  mosaics  upon  the  walls  or  pavements  of  the  church.  A  gene- 
ral muster  of  his  subjects  by  a  bulletin  of  the  Pope  reminds  one  of  the 
classification  of  the  tribes,  from  the  same  regions,  by  the  epic  Muse  of 
Virgil,  while  rallying  and  arraying  his  troops  for  war.  In  the  month  of 
June,  there  is  a  celebrated  rural  festival  at  Genzano,  in  honour  of  Flo- 
ra. It  appears  to  bear  a  strong  resemblance  to  a  May-day  fete  in  some 
of  our  Southern  States.  The  earth  is  strewed  with  a  splendid  mosaic 
of  flowers,  and  the  pretty  peasant  girls  twine  their  snowy  brows  and 
sunny  locks  with  garlands.  Already  were  the  fields  along  the  road  in 
bloom,  sprinkled  with  a  richness  and  beauty  by  the  hand  of  nature  be- 
yond the  reach  of  art ;  and  the  goddess  of  the  hill  seemed  to  be  prepa- 
ring abundant  materials  for  the  celebration  of  her  approaching  anni- 
versary. 

Notwithstanding  many  a  long  hill,  which  retarded  our  progress, 
we  reached  Velletri  before  sunset,  and  were  shut  up  within  high  walls 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         203 

and  dirty  courts  for  tlie  night.  Altiioiiyh  this  town  was  one  of  the 
capitals  of  the  ancient  Volsci,  and  acquired  still  greater  fame  by  giving 
birth  to  the  Emperor  Augustus,  it  is  very  far  at  present  from  being  an 
imperial  city,  and  affords  few  resources  for  the  entertainment  of  the 
traveller,  in  any  sense  of  the  word.  In  driving  from  the  narrow  streets 
into  the  court-yard  of  the  hotel,  our  coach  was  very  nigh  being  cap- 
sized ;  and  neither  the  comforts  of  the  chambers  nor  the  bounties  of 
the  table  compensated  for  the  risk  of  reaching  them.  But  as  a  long 
journey  was  to  be  performed  on  the  following  day,  in  crossing  the  Pon- 
tine Marshes,  and  as  only  a  short  interval  was  allowed  us  for  repose, 
the  inconveniences  of  the  tavern  were  soon  forgotten  by  all  our  party 
save  one,  who  was  so  ill  during  the  night  and  his  malady  had  been  so 
much  aggravated  by  the  fatigues  of  the  ride,  that  he  concluded  to  aban- 
don the  excursion  to  Naples,  and  return  immediately  to  Rome.  Thus 
was  our  parting  upon  the  Volscian  mountains  as  sudden  and  painful, 
as  our  first  meeting  in  the  bed  of  the  Magra  had  been  unexpected  and 
agreeable.  The  recollections  growing  out  of  an  intimacy  for  four  or 
five  weeks,  in  visiting  some  of  the  most  interesting  scenes  in  Italy, 
will  remain  among  the  most  cherished  and  durable  pleasures  of  our 
tour. 

With  feelings  not  a  little  saddened  by  leaving  our  friends  under  such 
circumstances,  as  well  as  by  the  reputed  dreariness  of  the  road  to  be 
traversed,  we  left  Velletri  at  4  o'clock  the  next  morning,  and  descended 
rapidly  down  the  southern  declivities  of  Mont  Albano.  The  gradual 
advances  of  morning,  reddening  with  the  rich  hues  of  an  Italian  sky, 
till  at  length  the  sun  rose  above  the  Volscian  hills,  might  at  another 
moment  have  been  hailed  with  delight.  More  than  half  of  our  day's 
ride  opened  at  once  before  us.  The  eye  takes  in  at  one  view  the 
whole  expanse  of  the  Pontine  Marshes,  something  like  thirty  miles  in 
length,  and  eight  or  ten  in  breadth  ;  bounded  on  the  west  by  the  Me- 
diterranean, and  on  the  east  by  long  ranges  of  the  Apennines,  which 
sweep  round  the  plain  with  a  gentle  curve,  meeting  the  sea  at  the 
southern  extremity  and  terminating  to  the  north  in  the  Alban  Mount. 
In  front  rises  the  lofty  promontory  of  Circello,  which  is  as  picturesque 
as  it  is  classical,  forming  the  most  conspicuous  feature  in  the  extended 
landscape,  and  appearing  at  the  distance  of  twenty-five  miles  precisely 
like  a  mountainous,  broken  island,  separated  by  a  wide  strait  from  the 
shore.  This  bold,  insulated  headland,  the  fabled  residence  of  Circe, 
daughter  of  4he  Sun,  has  been  described  both  by  Homer  and  Virgil  as 
an  island,  either  from  its  strong  resemblance  to  one,  or  because  it  was 
really  such,  at  the  period  when  the  Odyssey  was  written.  The  latter 
supposition  is  by  no  means  improbable,  as  these  marshes  arc  evident- 


204         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

ly  not  only  alluvial,  but  of  comparatively  recent  formation.  A  chain 
of  small  lakes,  where  the  great  process  of  nature  in  converting  water 
into  land  is  not  yet  completed,  extends  along  the  sea-shore,  at  points 
least  liable  to  be  filled  by  debris  from  the  mountains.  It  may  be  pro- 
per to  add,  that  although  in  the  age  of  Virgil,  the  promontory  of  Cir- 
cello  was  doubtless  connected  with  the  main-land  ;  yet  the  voyage  of 
iEneas  was  coeval  with  that  of  Ulysses,  and  the  Roman  poet  has 
therefore  adopted  the  topography  of  his  great  prototype,  describing 
objects  as  they  were  supposed  to  exist,  ten  or  twelve  centuries  before 
the  Christian  era. 

The  northern  boundary  of  the  Pontine  Marshes  is  rather  nominal 
than  real ;  for  the  slope  is  so  gradual  from  Velletri  to  Tre  Ponti,  a 
distance  of  about  fifteen  miles,  and  the  appearance  of  the  country  so 
rural,  even  far  beyond  this  point,  that  the  traveller  has  no  suspicion  of 
being  in  the  midst  of  those  regions,  which  by  many  are  supposed  to 
breathe  pestilence  and  death.  Whatever  may  have  been  its  former 
condition,  this  extensive  tract  at  present  much  more  nearly  resembles 
a  meadow  than  a  bog,  and  in  aspect  is  not  unlike  the  borders  of  some 
of  the  lakes  in  the  western  part  of  the  state  of  New-York.  A  consi- 
derable portion  of  it  is  arable,  and  in  several  places  the  peasants  were 
seen  ploughing  by  the  side  of  the  road.  Extensive  pastures,  sprinkled 
with  cattle,  horses,  and  buffalo  ;  and  a  curtain  of  forests  on  the  right, 
skirting  the  shore  of  the  sea,  occupy  the  remainder  of  this  vast  alluvial 
plain.  Very  little  stagnant  water  was  observed  in  the  whole  distance 
of  thirty  miles.  The  fields  were  gay  with  a  profusion  of  wild  flow- 
ers ;  the  air  breathed  the  fragrance  of  spring,  instead  of  poisonous 
effluvia ;  and  the  carols  of  birds  were  much  more  frequently  heard, 
than  the  croaking  of  Horace's  frogs. 

As  it  regards  population,  the  Pontine  Marshes  are  as  desolate  as 
the  Campagnadi  Roma.  A  succession  of  villages,  seated  in  the  most 
romantic  manner  along  the  brow  of  the  mountains  on  the  left,  at  the 
distance  of  four  or  five  miles,  are  almost  the  only  human  habitations 
in  sight.  Blended  with  the  wildness  and  loneliness  of  nature,  they 
render  the  scenery  in  the  highest  degree  picturesque.  Here  reside  all 
the  inhabitants  who  descend  at  the  healthy  seasons  to  cultivate  the 
plain,  and  during  the  sickly  months  are  elevated  above  the  mal'aria. 
On  the  road  there  are  no  other  settlements  or  population,  than  barely 
enough  to  aff'ord  shelter  and  protection  to  travellers.  These  consist 
chiefly  of  guard-houses  for  the  lodgment  of  soldiers,  who  are  posted 
at  short  intervals  along  the  way,  armed  and  constantly  walking  as  sen- 
tinels, to  prevent  robberies  by  banditti.  The  troops  are  selected  for 
this  service  as  a  sort  of  punishment,  and  in  the  months  of  August 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         205 

and  September,  they  may  be  considered  almost  as  a  forlorn  hope. 
Their  accommodations  at  all  seasons  appear  to  be  miserable.  With 
the  exception  of  the  half-way  house,  a  wretched,  dirty,  comfortless 
establishment,  there  is  no  tavern  in  the  distance  of  thirty  miles.  Ad- 
joinin£T  the  inn  stands  a  large  shell  of  a  church,  which  has  gone  to 
ruins,  and  is  now  used  as  a  stable.  A  good  hotel,  upon  the  plan  of 
the  hospices  on  the  Alps,  should  be  here  erected  ;  but  martyrs  are  not 
so  common  as  they  once  were,  and  it  is  difiicult  to  find  respectable 
persons,  who  for  either  love  or  money,  are  willing  to  forego  the  com- 
forts of  society,  and  put  life  in  jeopardy. 

The  road  itself  is  a  magnificent  work.  Its  history  is  probably  well 
known  to  many  of  my  readers.  It  extends  twenty-five  miles  in  a  di- 
rect line,  wide  enough  for  two  or  three  carriages  abreast,  sufficiently 
elevated  above  the  level  of  the  meadow  to  be  always  dry,  or  in  other 
words,  never  flooded,  and  bordered  on  both  siiles  by  rows  of  stately 
oaks  and  elms,  which  effectually  protect  the  traveller  from  the  sun  in 
the  heat  of  sunnner.  It  is  built  upon  the  foundations  of  the  old 
Appian  Way,  which  was  constructed  by  Appius  Claudius,  about  three 
hundred  years  before  the  Christian  era,  extending  at  first  from  Rome 
to  Capua,  and  subsequently  to  Brundusium — a  distance  in  all  of  be- 
tween three  and  four  hundred  miles.  The  double  objects  of  making  a 
good  road,  and  of  draining  the  marshes,  have  been  constantly  kept  in 
view  from  that  age  to  the  present,  to  effect  which,  mints  of  money 
have  been  expended,  the  greater  part  of  it  uselessly.  I  will  venture 
to  assert,  that  the  number  of  persons  usually  employed  on  the  Erie 
Canal  at  any  stage  of  its  progress,  under  the  superintendence  of  its 
engineers  and  commissioners,  would  accomplish  more  in  a  single  sea- 
son, than  all  the  Censors,  Consuls  Emperors,  and  Popes,  have  done 
in  upwards  of  two  thousand  years  !  Most  of  them  went  to  work  with- 
out any  kind  of  system — not  so  much  as  even  to  take  a  level,  for  the 
purpose  of  ascertaining  whether  the  water  would  run  in  the  artificial 
channels,  opened  at  a  vast  expense.  In  many  instances  projected  im- 
provement was  converted  into  a  stalking-horse,  for  the  purpose  of  ac- 
quiring popularity,  and  a  great  show  seemed  to  be  the  leading  motive. 
The  canals  were  dug  near  the  road,  where  every  person  could  see 
them,  and  read  the  numerous  inscriptions,  informing  him  by  whom 
they  were  executed.  Had  the  work  been  calculated  for  any  public 
utility,  such  an  emulation  would  have  been  commendable  ;  but  the 
most  that  \(^as  ever  accomplished  till  the  more  systematic  efforts  of 
Pope  Pius  VI.  in  the  last  century,  amounted  to  Httle  more  than  col- 
lecting the  waters  of  the  marsh  into  pits,  trenches,  and  reservoirs, 
leaving  them  to  stagnate  and  putrify.     In  the  age  of  Augustus,  a 


i06        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

broad  canal  was  opened  along  the  Appian  Way,  navigable  with  boats, 
but  reckoned  so  unhealthy,  that  passengers  deemed  it  necessary  to 
perform  the  voyage  in  the  night,  during  the  hot  months,  to  escape  the 
effluvia — an  odd  expedient  according  to  our  mode  of  reasoning.* 

Nothing  is  apparently  more  obvious,  than  an  effectual  plan  for  drain- 
ing the  Pontine  marshes,  suggested  by  nature  herself.  At  the  north- 
ern and  southern  extremities  two  copious  streams,  the  Astura  and  the 
Ufens,  flow  with  strong  currents  into  the  sea.  Had  canals  opening 
into  these  been  extended  along  the  base  of  the  hills,  to  receive  the 
fountains  which  there  gush  out  and  descend  into  the  plain,  the  whole 
Herculean  labour  would  at  one  stroke  have  been  finished.  But  then 
the  work  would  not  have  been  seen  by  travellers  upon  the  Appian 
Way  !  Any  peasant  accustomed  to  hedging  and  ditching  might  at  a 
glance  have  improved  upon  imperial  projects.  Pope  Pius  VI.  who 
is  emphatically  "  the  Man  of  Ross"  among  the  Pontiffs,  in  part 
adopted  the  above-mentioned  plan.  He  was  at  least  free  from  the 
absurdity  of  expecting  water  to  run  up  hUl ;  and  at  the  outset,  au- 
thorized a  survey  of  the  ground,  with  the  view  of  ascertaining  the 
level  of  the  projected  channels.  His  great  fault  consisted  in  com- 
mencing his  work  in  the  middle  of  the  Marshes,  instead  of  the  bor- 
ders. He  opened  two  canals,  one  on  each  side  of  the  Appian  Way, 
and  gave  to  their  currents  towards  the  Ufens  the  rapidity  of  an  ordi- 
nary river.  The  waters  are  clear,  and  so  copious  as  to  be  navigable 
with  boats,  which  are  now  drawn  by  men,  in  place  of  Horace's  mules. 
There  appears,  however,  to  be  very  httle  difference  in  the  two  descrip- 
tions of  animals,  except  in  the  length  of  their  ears.  We  saw  large 
droves  of  buffaloes  wallowing  in  these  canals,  with  nothing  but  their 
heads  visible.  They  were  under  the  charge  of  herdsmen,  who  ap- 
peared to  be  driving  them,  from  their  pastures  on  the  waste-  to  the 
road.  This  was  novel  scenery,  even  to  travellers  from  a  land  of 
prairies  and  forests,  the  home  of  the  buffalo.  These  animals  are  here 
of  the  size  of  ordinary  black  cattle,  and  are  yoked  in  teams  like  oxen. 

Lest  my  readers  begin  to  think,  I  am  stuck  in  the  mire  of  the  Pon- 
tine Marshes,  we  will  make  our  escape  as  soon  as  possible,  without 


*  The  same  idea  prevails  with  the  modern  Italians,  who  in  the  summer  months 
travel  almost  exclusively  m  the  night,  setting  out  at  dusk  and  continuing  the  jour- 
ney till   daylight.     This  is  a  strange  notion,  so  far  as  it  regards  either  health   or 
comfort.     It  is  a  well  established  fact,  I  believe,  that  the  exhalations  of  the  night 
^'  are  much  more  active  and  pestilential  than  during  the  day.     But  there  is  not 

much  practical  philosophy  in  Italy. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        207 

pausing  upon  the  Pope's  bridge  over  the  classical  Ufens,*  or  like  Ho- 
race, to  wash  off'  the  mud  contracted  during  the  passage,  in  the  foun- 
tain of  Fcronia.t  The  view  from  this  point,  independent  of  its  in- 
teresting associations,  is  extremely  picturesque.  Within  a  few  miles 
of  the  road,  on  the  right,  the  lone  woody  promontory  of  Circello 
looks  as  if  it  might  contain  as  many  prowling  monsters,  as  the  Trojan 
hero  found  in  its  wilds  ;  and  still  nearer  on  the  left,  the  lofty,  glittering 
rocks  of  Anxur,  exhibiting  both  at  the  base  and  upon  the  summit 
ruins  of  the  ancient  city,  shoot  out  into  cliff's  several  hundred  feet  in 
height,  and  overhang  the  sea.  Directly  in  front,  the  modern  town  of 
Terracina  is  seated  upon  the  shore,  so  near  the  water  that  its  founda- 
tions are  washed  by  the  waves.  We  reached  this  place  at  1 1  o'clock, 
and  after  breakfast  passed  an  hour  in  looking  at  the  kw  antiquities  it 
contains.  Among  these  is  the  old  Roman  harbour,  in  the  form  of  a 
crescent — an  immense  work  in  its  day.  It  was  repaired  for  the  last 
time  by  Antoninus  Pius,  and  is  now  choked  with  sand,  skirted  with  wild 
bushes.  There  is  still  the  shadow  of  a  port,  into  which  a  small  stream 
flows  and  the  swells  of  the  Mediterranean  roll  with  a  good  deal  of 
grandeur.  A  hard  sandy  beach  off'ers  as  many  accommodations  for 
bathing  as  ever.  Near  the  harbour  stands  a  monstrous  shell  of  a  pa- 
lace, built  and  inhabited  a  part  of  the  year  by  Pius  VI.  while  engaged 
in  draining  the  Pontine  Marshes.  Its  only  interest  arises  from  that 
circumstance.     It  is  now  used  as  a  store-house. 

On  the  perpendicular  cliff's  ffve  or  six  hundred  feet  above  the  town, 
the  traveller  sees  the  ruins  of  the  temple  of  Apollo  ;  as  also  the  re- 
mains of  the  Castle  of  the  Emperor  Theodoric.  The  latter  crown 
the  summit  of  an  insulated,  pyramidal  rock,  (on  which  once  stood  the 
temple  of  Jupiter,)  forming  the  extreme  point  of  the  promontory, 
the  sides  of  which  have  been  partly  faced  with  artificial  masonry,  to 
prevent  the  loosened  scales  from  falling  into  the  road.  Terracina  is 
half  unpeopled,  and  the  few  remaining  inhabitants  appear  to  be  in  a 
state  of  indolence,  poverty,  and  starvation.     As  Forsyth,  the  most 


*  "Cir£aeumque  jngum;  qaeis  Jupifor  Anxurus  arvis 
Praesidet,  ct  viridi  ijaudeiis  Feronia  luco: 
Qua  Satursejacet  atra  |)alus,  gelidusque  per  imas 
Qiiscrit  iter  valles  atque  in  mare  conditur  Ufens." 

t  "  Or4,  manusque  tua  lavimus,  Feronia,  lympha." 
As  most  of  the  objects  described  in  these  quotations  from   Virgil  and  Horace 
were  in  sight  at  the  same  moment,  and  the  two  poets  were  the  companions  of  our 
coach  in  crossing  the  Marshes,  I  hope  to  be  excused  for  the  pedantry  of  citing  thf> 
above  graphic  passages. 


208        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

authentic  of  our  guide-books,  informed  us  that  "  every  fifth  man  is 
^         here  an  assassin  or  a  sbirro,"  we  felt  no  anxiety  to  prolong  our  stay  be- 
yond the  time  required  for  the  horses  to  rest,  after  travelling  near  forty 
miles  during  the  mornmg.     This  town  and  its  environs  have  been  the 
v^      most  common  haunts  of  banditti,  who  have  frequently  led  travellers 
captive  into  the  neighbouring  mountains,  and  then  entered  into  formal 
stipulations  with  their  friends  to  redeem  them  for  a  certain  sum.* 
These  freebooters  once  had  an  accredited  agent  or  minister  at  the 
papal   court,  to  conduct  the  negotiations  and   manage  the  foreign 
^/     affairs  of  the  mountain  clan.     But  if  any  of  their  descendants  still 
exist,  they  had  the   complaisance  to  let  us  pass  unmolested.     The 
most  common  mode  of  robbery  is  to  make  one  passenger  descend 
from  the  coach  at  a  time,  and  stretch  himself  upon  the  ground,  lying 
i        still  till  his  pockets  are  picked,  and  his  baggage  pillaged. 

^^-  On  leaving  Terracina,  the  road  makes  a  bold  sweep  towards  the 
east,  and  traverses  a  beautiful  plain,  bounded  on  one  side  by  an  amphi- 
theatre of  hills,  and  on  the  other  by  inlets  from  the  sea.  The  country 
is  richly  wooded,  green,  and  flowery  ;  but  notwithstanding  all  its 
charms,  it  is  said  to  be  unhealthy,  owing  to  the  quantity  of  stagnant 
water  in  the  vicinity.  At  the  distance  of  two  or  three  miles,  passing 
under  the  arch  of  the  Torre  de'Confini,  (the  Border  Tower,)  we  left 
the  patrimony  of  St.  Peter  behind,  and  entered  the  kingdom  of  Na- 
ples. A  swarm  of  custom-house  officers  were  lounging  upon  the 
boundary,  and  the  sentinel  soldiers  thickened  along  the  path,  almost 
within  call  of  one  another.  The  delay  in  the  examination  of  our  pass- 
ports and  trunks  was  much  shorter  and  less  vexatious  than  had  been 
anticipated. 

At  Fondi,  the  first  town  in  the  Neapolitan  dominions,  the  principal 
street  runs  along  the  old  Appian  Way,  just  as  it  was  two  thousand 


*  One  of  our  Italian  Consuls  informed  me,  that  some  years  ago  a  Neapolitan  of 
liberal  education  failing  in  his  professional  pursuits,  turned  his  attention  to  others 
in  which  patronage  was  less  voluntary.  He  was  soon  promoted  to  the  head  of  a 
band  of  robbers,  whose  fastnesses  in  the  depth  of  the  Apennines  long  eluded  dis- 
covery. At  length  a  village  girl  was  observed  going  to  an  unfrequented  pass  in 
the  mountains  with  a  basket  of  fowls,  and  the  police  entertaining  some  suspicions 
of  her  errand,  secretly  followed  her.  She  was  soon  met  by  the  chief  of  the  bri- 
gands, who  came  to  receive  the  provisions.  He  was  shot  dead  upon  the  spot, 
and  his  clan  taken  prisoners.  They  had  a  luxurious  residence  in  the  caverns, 
filled  with  the  spoils  of  weallliy  travellers.  A  physician  was  released  from  cap- 
tivity, after  having  been  long  a  prisoner  without  the  means  of  paying  his  ransom. 
Other  captives  have  fared  worse  in  having  their  ears  cropped,  or  in  being  cut  in 
quarters! 


LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE.  209 

vears  ago,  furnishing  a  perfect  specimen  of  its  construction.  It  is 
composed  of  large  blocks  of  stone,  rather  rudely  adjusted,  and  by  no 
means  answering  my  expectations  of  tliis  far-famed  road.  The  pave- 
ments of  Florence  far  surj)ass  it  in  material,  workmansiiip,  strength, 
and  beauty.  In  leaving  this  town  at  full  speed,  one  of  our  horses 
fell  ;  but  the  postillion  had  the  good  fortune  to  be  uppermost  in  the 
tumble.  A  gentleman  from  New- York  met  with  a  similar  accident 
near  the  same  spot  last  year.  The  postillion  was  instantly  killed,  sent 
back  to  the  post-house,  and  a  new  man  called  in  to  supply  his  place, 
with  a  delay  oT  only  a  few  minutes.  His  Neapolitan  Majesty  has  sub- 
jects enough  to  spare,  and  they  are  more  likely  to  fall  in  a  line  of 
coaches  than  in  the  line  of  battle !  At  this  moment  the  glorious 
scene  of  the  chivalry  of  the  Carbonari,  in  the  revolution  of  1821  and 
1822,  was  in  full  view.  They  had  erected  a  strong  fortress  in  the  nar- 
rowest part  of  a  deep  gorge  between  Mount  Cascubus  (of  classical 
memory)  on  the  right,  and  the  chain  of  Apennines  on  the  left.  The 
fort  completely  commanded  the  road,  and  was  garrisoned  by  eight 
thousand  men,  who  might  have  defended  themselves  against  as  many 
millions.  But  after  a  few  rounds  from  the  Austrians,  the  indentations 
of  whose  shot  are  seen  in  the  impregnable  walls  of  the  castle,  the 
whole  herd  of  recreant  Neapolitans  fled  like  so  many  sheep,  tamely 
yielding  their  arms  and  their  country  to  the  enemy.  Thus  ended  the 
notable  achievements  of  the  Carbonari ! 

The  old  town  of  Itri  is  romantically  situated  in  the  wildest  part  of 
this  defile,  the  houses  straggling  up  the  steep  acclivities  on  either  hand. 
In  the  walls  of  the  buildings,  along  the  narrow,  dirty,  beggarly  streets, 
specimens  of  substantial  masonry  are  seen,  said  to  be  older  than  the 
foundations  of  Rome  itself  Our  coach  was  here  so  beset  with  swarms 
of  mendicants,  that  it  was  absolutely  necessary  to  close  the  windows, 
to  avoid  their  importunate  cries,  which  could  not  have  been  hushed 
without  exhausting  our  purses.  Such  is  the  distress  of  a  population 
in  a  country  apparently  teeming  with  plenty.  The  hills  are  crowned 
with  olives,  and  the  vales  produce  corn  and  wine  in  abundance.  But 
between  the  oppressions  of  the  government  and  the  indolence  of  the 
subject,  the  peasantry  are  more  degraded  and  wretched  than  even  the 
inhabitants  of  the  papal  dominions. 

Just  before  sunset  we  paused  opposite  an  old  tower  on  the  right  of 
the  road,  and  three  labourers,  at  work  in  a  field  near  the  base,  inform- 
ed us  that  it  w'as  the  Mausoleum  of  Cicero.  Such  an  object  was  not 
to  be  passed  unnoticed.  One  of  the  peasants  led  the  way,  and  kindly 
lent  us  a  helping  hand  in  climbing  up  the  exterior  of  its  crumbling 

VOL.  II.  27 


210         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

walls.  It  is  two  stories  high,  of  a  rude  construction,  the  basement  be- 
ing composed  of  blocks  of  Travertjne,  and  the  upper  story  of  brick 
and  mortar,  intermingled  with  stone.  The  interior  is  hollow,  with 
niches  for  statues,  and  a  column  rising  in  the  centre,  apparently  to  sup- 
port the  shattered  roof,  which  is  tottering  to  its  fall,  and  richly  mantled 
with  shrubs  and  wild  flowers.  It  is  supposed  to  stand  upon  the  very 
spot  where  tlie  great  Roman  orator  was  overtaken  and  assassinated  by 
Herennius,  an  emissary  of  Antony,  while  the  former  was  endeavouring 
to  escape  in  a  litter,  from  his  Formian  Villa  to  the  sea  shore,  at  the 
distance  of  a  mile.  He  put  out  his  head  as  the  assassin  came  up,  and 
it  was  instantly  severed  from  his  body.  The  monument  is  believed  to 
be  a  cenotaph,  although  there  appears  to  be  some  doubt  what  became 
of  the  dust  of  the  orator,  with  the  exception  of  his  head  and  hand, 
which  were  suspended  as  trophies  in  the  Roman  Forum,  to  be  pierced 
by  the  bodkin  of  Fulvia  !  What  must  have  been  the  character  of  an 
age,  which  could  tolerate  such  barbarities  ?  Yet  this  was  the  Augus- 
tan age  of  Roman  literature  and  taste  !  We  should  nevertheless  be 
cautious  of  drawing,  from  these  scenes  of  atrocity,  growing  out  of  poli- 
tical dissensions,  any  general  conclusions  unfavourable  to  the  charac- 
ter of  the  Romans.  The  whole  history  of  Rome,  often  as  its  page  is 
stained  with  the  record  of  enormities,  does  not  make  us  acquainted 
with  a  more  bloody  tragedy,  than  was  enacted  at  the  close  of  the  last 
century  at  Paris,  the  seat  and  centre  of  modern  arts,  science,  litera- 
ture and  refinement. 

From  the  Mausoleum  of  Cicero,  a  most  magnificent  sunset  view 
opened  upon  us  towards  the  south,  embracing  a  range  of  mountains 
extending  along  the  shore  of  the  Mediterranean  to  the  Bay  of  Naples, 
with  the  top  of  Vesuvius  in  the  distance — the  blue  expanse  of  the  sea 
washing  a  long  line  of  coast — and  the  lofty  promontory  of  Gaeta,  pro- 
jecting out  several  miles  at  the  western  extremity  of  the  bay.  This  bold 
headland,  immortahzed  in  both  Greek  and  Roman  song,  exceeds  in 
picturesque  beauty  any  thing  I  have  seen  even  in  Italy,  the  land  of  en- 
chantment as  it  regards  distant  views.  An  artist  of  the  finest  fancy 
could  not  select  and  group  objects  to  more  advantage,  than  they  have 
been  fortuitously  combined  by  the  hand  of  nature  and  art,  in  the  midst 
of  a  population  destitute  of  taste,  who  have  not  wittingly  contributed  an 
iota  to  the  embellishment  of  their  landscapes.  From  the  extreme  point 
of  Gaeta,  the  shore  sweeps  with  a  bold  and  graceful  curve  to  Mola,  a 
distance  of  four  or  five  miles  to  the  east.  The  old  town  extends  from 
the  end  of  the  cape  half  way  round  the  bay,  the  white  buildings  rising 
from  the  edge  of  the  water  up  the  declivity.     On  the  summit  of  the  pro- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         211 

montory  are  seen  the  antique  castle  of  colossal  dinionsions,  and  the 
mausoleum  of  Lucius  Plancus,  the  frionJ  of  Horace  and  the  founder  of 
Lyons.  To  the  north  tiic  woody  tops  of  mountains  form  a  wild  and 
rural  back-ground.  Such  arc  a  few  of  the  elements  of  a  picture,  which, 
brightened  by  skies  and  waters  rivalling  each  other  irr  the  splendour  of 
their  hues,  and  endjullislied  by  the  fresh  luxuriance  of  spring,  wholly 
batfles  the  powers  of  description.  It  seemed  so  much  like  enchant- 
ment, and  formed  such  a  fine  image  to  be  preserved  unbroken  in  the 
mind,  that  we  did  not  in  this  instance  give  chase  to  the  rainbow,  till  its 
tints  vanished  amidst  beggars  and  their  dirty  habitations. 

In  our  ride  of  a  mile  or  two  from  the  Mausoleum  of  Cicero  to  the 
little  town  of  Mola  di  Gaeta,  situated  upon  the  very  margin  of  the 
sea,  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  town  ot  Formiaj  were  seen  strewed  along 
the  road.  We  took  lodgings  for  the  night  at  a  large  and  comfortable 
hotel,  called  La  Villa  di  Cicerone,  said  to  occupy  the  site  of  Cicero's 
house,  though  the  tradition  does  not  appear  to  be  very  well  grounded. 
At  any  rate,  its  location  is  enciianting.  The  declivity  between  the  court- 
yard and  the  sea  is  covered  with  magnificent  groves  of  the  citron 
and  orange.  Most  of  the  trees  were  laden  with  golden  fruit,  while 
the  blossoms  of  others  filled  the  air  with  fragrance.  The  landlord  un- 
locked the  gates  of  this  garden  of  the  Hesperides,  and  bade  us  wel- 
come to  any  portion  of  its  contents.  We  however  did  not  avail  our- 
selves of  his  liberality,  but  permitted  the  bending  branches  and  rich 
clusters  to  hang  unmolested,  too  beautiful  to  the  eye  to  be  profaned  by 
the  grosser  senses. 

Below  the  terrace  of  the  garden,  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Villa  are 
scattered  along  the  rocks  on  the  beach,  and  even  extending  for  some 
distance  into  the  bay,  a  few  feet  beneath  the  surface  of  the  water. 
Descending  from  the  wall  by  a  ladder,  we  examined  by  twilight,  (with 
the  aid  of  a  young  moon  hanging  her  silver  horn  above  Mount  Ca;- 
cubus,)  the  remains  of  baths,  porches,  and  subterranean  arches,  still 
in  a  state  of  tolerable  preservation.  The  solitude  of  the  shore  is  un- 
broken, save  only  by  the  murmurs  of  the  sea,  which  here  seems  to  feel 
all  the  indolence  of  the  climate,  and  rolls  in  its  sluggish  billows  upon 
the  wreck  of  Roman  luxury.  In  a  retreat  so  absolutely  enchanting, 
with  high  hills  rising  on  one  hand,  and  the  hollow  port  described  in 
the  Odyssey,  spreading  on  the  other — amidst  scenery  enriched  by  the 
prodigality  of  nature,  and  hallowed  by  the  muse  of  Homer  and  Virgil 
and  Horace,  as  well  as  associated  with  the  name  of  Tully — my  readers 
must  indulge  me  in  a  little  romance  of  feeling.  Prompted  by  the 
pages  of  the  ancient  poets,  fancy  recalled  the  images  of  other  ages, 


213        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

when  old  Ulysses,*  mooring  his  fleet  in  the  bay,  went  on  shore  per- 
liaps  with  his  crew,  to  frolic  with  the  peasant  girls  of  La3strygonia ; 
or  when  at  a  subsequent  period,  the  Orator  of  Rome,  retiring  to  the 
classic  shades  of  Formiae,  gave  his  attic  nights  to  the  pursuits  of  elo- 
quence and  philosophy.  His  vigils  were  scarcely  protracted  to  a  later 
hour  than  my  own.  The  citron  groves,  peeping  through  the  windows 
of  my  apartment,  were  the  last  to  bid  me  good  night,  and  the  first  to 
greet  me  on  the  morrow. 


*  The  fable  says,  that  the  wanderings  hero  sent  three  of  his  officers  on  shore,  and 
that  one  of  them  was  devoured  by  the  Laestrygones,  a  sort  of  Cyclops,  who  then 
inhabited  the  coast.  But  it  is  not  improbable,  that  the  commander  of  a  squadron 
who  was  obliged  to  resort  to  the  expedient  of  being  lashed  to  the  mast,  to  keep 
him  from  approaching  the  rocks  of  the  Sirens,  and  who  lingered  so  many  years  in 
the  voluptuous  bowers  of  Circe  and  Calypso,  was  here  engaged  in  some  love 
adventure,  which  led  the  inhabitants  of  Lssstrygonia  to  retaliate  by  sinking  a  part 
of  his  fleet. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        219 

LETTER  LXII. 

KOrXE  FROM  GAETA    TO   NAPLES — MIKTURN.E — RIVER    LIRIS — CAPUA — 

AVEKSA — ARRIVAL    AT    NAPLES ASPECT    OF    THE    CITY PRINCIPAL 

STREETS — SKETCH     OF   THE   BAY,    ISLANDS,    SHORES,    HARBOUR,    AND 

OTHER   OUTLINES ROYAL    GARDEN TOMBS   OF   VIRGIL   AND   SANNA- 

ZARO. 

May,  1826. 

At  5  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  10th,  we  resumed  our  journey 
towards  Naples,  passing  through  the  large  modern  town  of  Mola  di 
Gaeta,  tiie  filth  and  poverty  of  which  present  a  perfect  contrast  to  the 
rural  charms  of  ihe  Villa  just  left  with  regret.  The  country  onward 
preserves  its  picturesque  character,  though  in  a  less  degree  than  the 
scenery  already  described.  A  ride  of  an  hour  brought  us  to  the  ruins 
of  old  Minturna;,  scattered  over  a  green  plain  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
liiris.  In  a  field  on  the  left  of  the  road,  are  seen  the  remains  of  a 
Iloman  aqueduct,  which  extended  from  the  brow  of  a  neigiibouring 
hill  to  the  town,  and  supplied  it  with  water.  The  walls  of  the  amphi- 
tiieatre,  similar  in  construction  to  others  of  the  same  age,  are  yet  tole- 
rably perfect.  Minturna)  is  associated  with  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing events  in  the  life  of  Caius  Marius,  who  secreted  himself  in  a 
neighbouring  fen,  till  he  was  dragged  from  his  lurking  place  by  the 
partisans  of  Sylla.  Here  was  the  scene  of  his  imprisonment  and  con- 
demnation to  death,  when  the  sternness  of  his  countenance  disarmed 
the  executioner,  and  he  was  permitted  to  escape  hence  to  the  shores 
of  Africa,  to  muse  upon  the  decline  of  his  own  fortunes  amidst  the  ruins 
of  Carthage. 

The  Liris,  the  liquid  Liris,  in  name  as  smooth  as  its  own  unruffled 
current,  has  now  assumed  the  semi-barbarous  appellation  of  the  Ga- 
rigliano — a  modern  Shibboleth,  which  none  but  the  Italians  can 
"frame  to  pronounce;"'  and  if  exactness  of  orthoepy  were  made  the 
criterion,  few  strangers  would  be  permitted  to  pass  the  bridge  of  boats, 
which  links  together  by  a  most  fragile  chain  the  ancient  kindoms  of 
Latiurn  and"  Campania.  Antiquaries  and  pedants  have  wasted  their 
learning  on  the  etymology  of  the  Gothic  name.  The  river  itself  is  one 
of  the  largest  and  finest  we  have  found  in  Italy.  It  is  nearly  as  broad 
as  the  Tiber,  within  the  walls  of  Rome,  but  differs  entirely  in  cha- 
racter, having  none  of  the  turbulence  and  impetuosity  of  the  lat- 
ter. The  banks  are  shaded  with  poplars  and  elms,  and  bordered  by 
a  broad,  fertile,  flowery  plain,  which  the  road  traverses  between  Ga- 


214  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

rigliano,  and  St.  Agatha.  An  insulated,  shattered  tower,  overhanging 
the  stream,  and  half  concealed  by  the  foliage,  forms  a  most  pictu- 
resque object  in  the  landscape.  In  crossing  this  delicious  vale,  we 
met  a  regiment  of  Austrian  cavalry,  riding  full  lilt,  and  raising  a  glo- 
rious dust.  They  were  on  their  way  to  Terracina,  to  meet  Leopold  the 
brother  of  the  King  of  Naples,  and  to  escort  him  to  town,  on  his  return 
from  the  north  of  Europe.  When  the  corps  was  first  descried  at  a 
distance,  with  nodding  plumes  and  armour  ulitterlng  in  the  sun,  the 
spectacle  was  quite  martial,  leaving  the  mind  free  to  fancy  it  a  squa- 
dron of  Numidian  horse,  from  the  Camp  of  Hannibal  at  Capua  ! 

The  environs  of  St.  Agatha  are  beautiful,  but  the  village  is  mean 
and  miserable.  A  stately  bridge  connects  it  with  Sessa,  (the  ancient 
Suessa)  a  handsome  town  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  Here 
the  traveller  again  meets  the  Appian  Way,  which  he  had  deserted  at 
Minturnae.  Passing  a  finely  wooded  country,  tolerably  well  cultivated, 
rural  in  its  aspect,  covered  with  vineyards,  fields  of  corn,  and  pastures, 
we  crossed  the  bridge  of  Volturno,  and  entered  Capua  at  1 1  o'clock. 
The  river,  which  is  nearly  as  large  as  the  Tiber,  and  quite  as  turbid, 
winds  with  a  good  deal  of  majesty  under  the  very  walls  of  the  town. 
A  large  fortress  was  observed  on  the  right  bank,  garrisoned  by  a  soli- 
tary soldier,  who  was  standing  sentinel  upon  the  parapet.  This  cir- 
cumstance is  the  more  remarkable,  as  the  city  is  now  as  full  of  Aus- 
trian troops  as  it  ever  was  with  the  legions  of  Hannibal.  Every  other 
person  you  meet  wears  a  military  dress,  and  the  rest,  as  a  consequence, 
are  beggars. 

While  our  horses  were  resting  at  the  hotel,  we  walked  to  the  cathe- 
dral and  one  or  two  other  churches,  for  the  purpose  of  examining 
some  Roman  antiquities,  unworthy  of  notice ;  but  the  streets  were  so 
thronged  with  mendicants,  that  a  retreat  was  effected  as  soon  as  possi- 
ble. Some  of  the  miserable  beings  who  beset  us  with  their  impor- 
tunities were  deformed,  and  others  diseased  ;  and  by  way  of  enforcing 
their  claims  to  charity,  they  have  a  fashion  of  thrusting  their  withered 
limbs  into  the  traveller's  face,  compeUing  him  to  witness  objects  that 
sicken  and  disgust.  Such  occurrences  are  so  frequent  as  to  form  a 
serious  drawback  upon  the  comforts  of  a  person  of  any  feeling.  Ca- 
pua seems  to  be  the  head  quarters  of  paupers,  who  are  far  more 
numerous  in  the  Neapolitan  dominions,  tlian  in  any  other  part  of  Italy  ; 
and  of  all  the  towns  I  have  ever  visited,  this  is  the  most  wretched.  The. 
population  is  reduced  to  seven  thousand,  and  seems  to  be  wasting  away 
by  absolute  starvation.  We  went  through  the  form  of  taking  break- 
fast at  the  hotel ;  but  if  Hannibal  and  his  army  had  found  as  hard  fare 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         21u 

as  crowned  our  table,  they  would  never  have  been  corrupted  by  the 
luxuries  of  the  ancient  capital  of  Campania  ! 

The  road  between  Capua  and  Naples,  a  distance  of  fifteen  miles,  is 
uniform  and  presents  few  objects  Vi  niterest  the  traveller.  It  leads  in 
nearly  a  direct  Hne  over  an  extensive  |)lain,  possessmg  a  light  soil, 
covered  with  poplars,  and  shaded  with  vines  hangnig  in  lestoons  from 
tree  to  tree,  like  the  vineyards  in  the  vale  of  the  Arno.  'l"he  intermedi- 
ate spaces  are  appro[)riatcd  to  the  culture  of  grain,  flax,  hemp,  lupins, 
and  a  variety  of  vegetables.  There  are  no  houses  scattered  over  the 
landscape,  and  nothmg  to  give  it  life  and  animation.  Midway  is  the 
large  and  populous  town  of  Aversa,  which  is  another  Capua  in  the 
character  of  its  idie,  half-naked,  and  starving  inhabitants — actually 
starving  in  the  midst  of  a  country  on  which  nature  has  lavished  her 
bounties !  The  yells  of  beggars,  outrunning  the  horses,  compelled 
us  again  to  close  the  windows  of  the  coach,  and  escape  as  soon  as 
possible  from  misery,  which  could  not  be  relieved. 

Just  before  reaching  Naples,  a  long  vista  in  the  road  opens  upon 
Mount  Vesuvius  and  the  hills  beyond  tiie  bay  ;  but  the  view  is  not 
commanding,  disclosing  nothing  of  the  town.  A  pretty  Doric  temple, 
one  story  high,  stands  upon  the  verge  of  the  plain.  Making  a  short 
turn  to  the  right,  we  descended  a  steep  declivity  into  the  great  avenue 
of  the  city  with  as  much  rapidity,  as  the  custom-house  officers  and 
sentinels  who  guarded  the  entrance  would  permit.  Our  coach  was 
stopped  at  least  half  a  dozen  times,  and  a  fee  exacted  by  each  of  the 
placemen.  Weary  of  so  much  delay  and  extortion,  we  at  length  di- 
rected the  postillion  to  go  on,  and  leave  the  authorities  of  his  majesty 
to  send  for  us  if  they  chose.  Frequent  impositions  of  this  kind  arc 
practised  u|)on  the  traveller. 

Our  entrance  into  Naples,  at  5  o'clock  on  a  pleasant  afternoon,  the 
hour  of  the  greatest  activity  and  bustle,  was  calculated  to  give  us  a 
very  favourable  impression  of  the  extent,  architectural  magnificence, 
and  population  of  the  city.  The  avenue,  in  approaching  from  Rome, 
terminates  in  the  Strada  Nuova,  extending  something  like  a  mile  in  a 
right  line,  of  about  twice  the  width  of  Broadway,  and  bordered  on 
both  sides  with  handsome  buildings,  some  of  which  are  colossal  in 
their  dimensions.  Among  these  are  the  Albergo  de'  Poveri,  (the 
Asylum  of  the  poor,)  about  two  thousand  feet  in  length,  four  stories 
high  besides  the  attic,  presenting  a  front  highly  embellished  with  Ionic 
pillars  ;  and  fartiier  on,  the  Studii  Pubblici,  (the  Royal  Academy  of 
Arts,)  of  nearly  the  same  dimensions.  From  the  latter  building  the 
Toledo,  the  principal  street  in  Naples,  corresponding  with  the  Corso 
at  Rome,  opens  at  right  angles  with  the  Strada  Nuova,  and  extends 


216        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

anot?ier  mile  in  a  right  line  to  the  quay.  It  is  about  as  wide  as  Pearl- 
street,  paved  with  flags  like  Florence,  and  bordered  by  palaces, 
churches,  and  other  buildings,  four,  five,  and  even  six  stories  high, 
with  balconies  or  piazzas  in  front,  and  with  terraced  roofs.  Near  the 
foot  of  it,  on  the  left,  stands  the  King's  Palace,  and  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  square,  that  of  the  Prince  Leopold  and  the  church  of  St. 
Francis,*  not  yet  completed.  From  the  Toledo,  we  made  another 
turn  through  the  street,  or  more  properly  quay  of  St.  Lucia,  winding 
round  a  bold  point  of  rocks  and  bringing  us  in  full  view  ol"  the  fau- 
bouro"  of  the  Chiaia,  or  west  end  of  the  town. 

I  have  been  more  particular  in  tracing  this  route,  because  it  leads 
through  nearly  all  the  magnificence  which  Naples  can  boast,  and  will 
serve  to  fix  certain  localities,  to  which  allusion  will  hereafter  be  made. 
In  the  whole  of  this  distance  of  something  more  than  two  miles,  the 
streets  were  literally  thronged  with  carriages  and  pedestrians,  exhibit- 
ing the  style,  costumes,  and  manners  of  the  country.  Such  a  crowd, 
so  busy,  noisy,  bustling  and  gay,  led  us  to  suppose  that  the  whole 
population  were  abroad,  on  some  great  festival.  But  subsequent 
observation  satisfied  us,  that  the  Toledo  at  all  times  exhibits  the  same 
spectacle,  which  will  not  appear  so  strange,  when  it  is  considered  that 
the  city  contains  a  population  of  450,000,  a  considerable  proportion 
of  whom  literally  live  and  even  sleep  in  the  streets.  The  bustle  of 
the  multitude  appeared  the  more  striking  to  us  by  way  of  contrast,  in 
coming  from  the  comparatively  unpeopled  hills  of  Rome.  'A  strongly 
marked  difference  in  the  character  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  two  cities 
is  observable  at  the  first  glance.  The  Neapolitans  form  collectively 
^     \^,  the   meanest,   dirtiest,   and    most  degraded   population  in  all  Italy. 

Something  like  50,000  lazzaroni,  with  naked  bronze  legs,  coarse  kilts, 
caps,  and  shirts  with  their  bosoms  open,  constitute  by  no  means  the  most 
abject  portion -of  this  moral  chaos,  where  wretchedness  and  gaiety, 
poverty  and  splendour  are  all  mingled  together.  Even  the  higher  classes 
exhibit  little  of  that  personal  beauty,  taste  in  dress,  and  refinement  of 
manners,  which  characterize  the  Romans.  '  Although  Naples  is  a 
commercial  place,  the  shops  of  the  Toledo  make  no  show  in  compa- 
rison with  those  of  London  or  Paris,  or  even  with  those  of  Leghorn 
and  Florence.     Such  are  a  few  of  the  leading  features,  which  strike 


*  This  enormous  pile,  with  a  circular  portico  in  front,  and  a  dome  in  imitation 
of  St.  Peter's,  was  begun  by  the  late  King,  in  consequence  of  a  vow  made  during 
his  exile  by  the  French,  that  if  he  was  restored  to  his  throne,  he  would  erect  a 
temple  to  the  A'irgin  or  St.  Francis.  It  will  costen'ough  money  to  satisfy  the  claims 
of  the  United  States  on  the  Neapolitan  government  I 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        2J7 

the  traveller  at  his  entrance  into  the  third  city  in  Europe,  in  point  of 
magnitude. 

Soon  alter  our  arrival,  we  took  private  lodgings  at  the  house  of  an 
Irisli  adventurer,  who  has  made  a  fortune  by  selling  drugs.  He  lives 
on  the  Cliiaia,  the  most  fashionable  part  of  the  town,  keeps  his  car- 
riage, and  appears  daily  upon  the  Corso,  cracking  as  good  a  whip  as  the 
best  of  them.  Our  windows  and  the  balconies  in  front  of  them  look 
down  upon  the  Royal  Garden  at  our  feet,  and  command  a  view  of  the 
whole  bay  of  Naples,  which  has  justly  been  extolled  for  its  picturesque 
beauty.  In  softness  and  splendour  of  scenery,  it  claims  a  decided 
superiority  over  that  of  New- York,  with  which  it  has  often  been  com- 
pared ;  but  in  grandeur  and  boldness,  it  is  inferior  to  our  own.  It 
lias  no  one  feature,  which  will  sustain  a  comparison  with  the  junction 
of  the  North  and  East  Rivers,  swelling  and  rolling  with  the  ocean  tides, 
and  covered  with  ships  from  all  quarters  of  the  globe. 

A  general  idea  of  the  outlines  of  the  bay  of  Naples  may  be  con- 
veyed in  few  words.  It  is  of  a  semicircular  form,  sweeping  round 
Avith  a  bold  and  almost  unbroken  curve  from  Cape  Miseno,  on  the 
north-west,  to  Cape  Campanella,  on  the  south-east.  The  chord 
between  these  two  promontories  is  about  twenty  miles  in  extent,  and 
it  is  nearly  the  same  distance  from  the  open  sea  to  the  foot  of  Mount 
Vesuvius.  Some  have  supposed  from  the  shape  as  well  as  from  the 
geological  formation  of  the  bay,  that  it  was  once  the  crater  of  an 
nnmense  volcano.  There  are  certainly  strong  reasons  to  favour  such 
a  hypothesis.  The  whole  region  in  the  vicinity  of  Naples  is  volcanic, 
and  the  fires  along  the  shores  in  several  places  are  not  yet  extinct. 
Disjoined  fragments  of  the  brim  of  the  crater,  shattered  probably  by 
earthquakes,  and  partly  buried  by  irruptions  of  the  sea,  may  still  be 
traced  in  its  whole  circumference. 

Beginning  at  cape  Miseno,  the  islands  of  Procida  and  Ischia  extend 
several  miles  into  the  Mediterranean,  preserving  a  line  which  might 
lead  to  the  belief,  that  they  formed  a  section  of  the  periphery.  Both 
bear  evident  marks  of  having  been  torn  asunder  by  a  convulsion  of  the 
elements  ;  and  in  the  latter,  the  subterranean  fires  are  still  burning, 
though  there  has  been  no  irruption  since  the  1 4th  century.  Between 
Ischia  and  Capri,  another  large  island  situated  near  cape  Campanella, 
there  is  a  chasm  of  perhaps  ten  miles,  forming  the  principal  entrance 
of  the  bay,  and  tlirougii  which  the  view  of  the  sea  is  boundless. 
Capri  exhibits  the  strongest  evidence  of  being  a  mere  ruin,  which  has 
■withstood  the  warring  elements,  and  now  lifts  its  shattered  rocks  above 
the  waves.  Its  position  is  precisely  such  as  to  form  another  link  in 
the  chain  of  fragments,  and  to  favour  the  foregoing  hypothesis.  From 
VOL.  11.  28 


21S        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

Capri  to  the  shores  of  Sorrento,  there  is  another  channel  four  or  five 
miles  in  width.  This  line  of  islands,  in  conjunction  with  the  long 
promontories  projecting  out  on  either  side,  in  some  measure  serves 
to  break  the  violence  of  the  sea,  and  to  render  the  waters  of  the  bay 
comparatively  tranquil.  Nothing  can  be  more  picturesque  than  these 
high,  shapeless,  fantastic  rocks  emerging  from  the  azure  waste,  and 
bearing  upon  their  tops  little  villages  and  tufts  of  trees,  visible  from 
the  transparency  of  the  air  at  the  distance  of  Naples. 

From  cape  Campanella  to  the  village  of  Castellamare,  on  the  south- 
ern side  of  the  bay,  the  hills  of  Sorrento  rise  boldly  from  the  very 
margin,  to  the  height  of  perhaps  two  thousand  feet,  and  are  extremely 
romantic,  exhibiting  a  few  white  buildings,  scattered  along  their  wild 
dechvities.  At  the  above  named  village,  the  principal  cham  of  the 
Apennines  retreats  towards  the  east,  and  thence  sweeps  to  the  north, 
forming  a  vast  amphitheatre,  in  the  midst  of  which  Vesuvius  rears  its 
insulated  cone  three  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Along 
the  base  of  the  mountain,  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  bay,  extends  an 
almost  unbroken  line  of  white  villages,  comprising  Castellamare,  Tor- 
re dell'Annunziata,  Torre  del  Greco,  Resina,  and  Portici.  Near  the 
last  of  these  towns,  the  faubourg  of  Naples  commences,  and  the  city 
stretches  thence  along  the  northern  side  of  the  basin,  for  a  distance  of 
five  or  six  miles,  including  the  western  suburbs.  The  remainder  of 
the  cape,  whence  we  set  out  in  tracing  this  circuit,  is  lofty  and  solitary 
with  the  exception  of  a  few  buildings  sprinkled  over  the  woody  hills. 
A  spectator  taking  his  position  in  the  middle  of  the  bay  finds  himself 
surrounded  by  three  concentric  circles — the  first  consisting  of  a  beauti- 
ful sheet  of  water ;  the  second,  of  the  green  shores  studded  with  cities, 
towns,  and  villages;  and  the  third,  of  the  distant  summits  of  the 
mountains.  So  much  for  the  most  prominent  features  in  the  great 
and  splendid  panorama,  which  has  been  surveyed  from  almost  every 
possible  point  of  view,  as  well  as  under  every  variety  of  aspect,  and  ne- 
ver without  delight.  I  have  seen  it  in  storm  and  sunshine  ;  in  the  dim- 
ness of  morning  and  evening  twilight ;  in  the  glories  of  noon-day  ;  and 
under  the  softer  light  of  the  full  moon. 

The  outlines  of  Naples  itself  may  perhaps  be  traced  to  the  best  ad- 
vantage from  the  water,  in  an  excursion  we  made  along  nearly  the 
whole  extent  of  the  city,  A  small  stream  divides  the  eastern  faubourg 
from  the  royal  village  of  Portici,  It  is  said  that  a  large  river  here 
once  fell  into  the  bay,  but  was  dried  up  and  its  fountains  changed  by 
the  great  eruption  of  Mount  Vesuvius  in  the  year  79.  Coasting  from 
this  point  westerly,  the  voyager  soon  makes  the  light,  standing  oddly 
enough  upon  the  wharf,  with  a  snug  reading  room  in  the  basement, 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        219 

not  for  the  benefit  of  sea-faring  men,  but  of  the  citizens,  who  see  the 
lantern  poised  at  an  elevation  of  some  fifty  feet,  and  scarcely  more  pro- 
minent than  a  lamp  at  one  of  the  windows  of  his  Majesty's  Palace. 
Antiquaries  have  seized  upon  the  ruins  of  two  old  light-houses,  which 
they  were  not  at  the  trouble  of  wetting  their  feet  to  find,  high  and  dry, 
in  the  heart  of  the  modern  city — drawing  thence  a  very  learned  argu- 
ment to  prove,  that  the  bay  of  Naples  must  have  sunk  something  like 
a  hundred  feet  from  its  present  level.  It  is  a  little  curious  they  should 
indulge  in  such  speculations,  with  the  King's  lantern,  standing  among 
the  fish-stalls  of  the  dock,  to  illumine  their  steps ! 

The  port  of  Naples  is  small  and  unimportant,  in  comparison  with 
many  others,  even  in  Italy.  It  is  far  inferior  in  dimensions,  as  well 
as  in  the  quantity  of  shipping,  to  that  of  Genoa  or  Leghorn.  It  is  of 
a  square  form,  covering  only  a  few  acres,  and  defended  on  two  sides 
by  moles,  constructed  while  the  French  had  possession  of  the  city  in 
the  14th  century.  In  some  of  the  Italian  harbours,  we  have  looked 
in  vain  for  American  bottoms :  not  so  Iiere ;  for  in  rowing  through  the 
port,  one  of  our  friends  assured  us,  that  a  considerable  part  of  the 
Neapolitan  ships  were  taken  with  their  cargoes  from  our  merchants, 
during  the  administration  of  Murat!  The  legitimate  authorities  of  the 
present  day  have  no  scruples  in  using  the  property,  which  he  treache- 
rously confiscated,  though  they  make  his  usurpation  a  plea  for  refusing 
indemnity.  There  is  only  one  argument  which  such  men  will  respect 
— the  ultima  ratio  regum. 

That  part  of  Naples,  which  extends  from  the  port  northerly  to  the 
Strada  Nuova  and  westerly  to  the  Toledo,  comprising  the  most  popu- 
lous district,  is  generally  mean  and  dirty.  Its  situation  is  comparative- 
ly low,  and  its  streets  narrow  and  dark.  At  the  foot  of  the  Toledo 
commences  what  may  be  denominated  the  court  end  of  the  town. 
Here  are  the  Royal  Barracks,  covering  several  acres  on  a  level  with 
the  water,  under  the  windows  and  terraces  of  the  Kmg's  Palace.  Ex- 
tensive as  they  are,  there  is  hardly  room  enough  to  accommodate  the 
fifteen  thousand  Austrians,  who  arc  quartered  upon  the  Neapolitans, 
to  parade  once  a  day  before  the  Palazzo  Reale  ;  to  give  an  entertain- 
ment of  martial  music  in  the  Royal  Garden  on  Sundays  ;  and  to  see 
that  the  Carbonari  and  Lazzaroni  do  no  mischief !  These  northern 
hordes  have  converted  Naples  into  another  Capua,  living  like  princes, 
and  finding  macaroni  twice  as  cheap  as  it  is  on  the  banks  of  the  Da- 
nube. 

The  facade  of  the  Royal  Palace  from  the  water  looks  like  a  large 
brewery.  It  exhibits  neither  taste  nor  splendour  in  its  exterior,  as  seen 
in  this  direction.     The  terrace,  shaded  with  domestic  orange  trees^  i"R 


220        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

pretty.  At  a  short  distance  to  the  east  stands  the  Castello  Nuovo — a 
shapeless  pile,  ornamented  with  Gothic  bas-relief,  and  intended  as  an 
arsenal,  something  in  the  style  of  the  Tower  of  London.  It  is  yet  in 
an  unfinished  state,  and  its  vacant  halls  are  without  interest  of  any 
kind.  The  stately  palace  of  the  king  at  Capo  di  Monte,  seated  on  the 
top  of  a  woody  hill  two  miles  from  town,  forms  at  a  distance  a  very 
prominent  object.  At  the  Prince  Leopold's  palace  the  reader  has 
already  had  a  glance,  and  he  may  take  another,  as  our  skifi' glides  by 
with  as  much  rapidity  as  did  the  coach.  It  is  a  lofty  edifice,  and  ap- 
pears to  much  better  advantage,  than  does  that  of  his  Majesty. 

West  of  the  Toledo,  the  city  assumes  a  more  romantic  character. 
The  tufo  hills  here  become  broken  and  rise  to  the  height  of  more  than 
a  thousand  feet,  ranging  along  nearly  parallel  with  the  shore,  and  ter- 
minating in  a  high  promontory  at  Baise.  Back  of  the  town,  they  are 
moderately  clothed  with  trees,  and  sprinkled  with  villas.  The  large 
old  castle  of  St.  Elmo  hangs  upon  the  brow,  and  completely  overlooks 
the  city  and  bay.  It  is  much  the  most  conspicuous  object  in  Naples. 
Its  commanding  situation  and  the  recommendations  of  guide-books, 
induced  us  to  climb  to  the  old  convent  of  San  Martino  standing  under 
its  battlements — an  undertaking  of  no  small  labour,  on  a  warm  day. 
The  view  of  the  hills  and  sea  is  very  fine  ;  but  of  the  town  you  see 
little,  save  a  waste  of  terraces  and  flat  roofs.  Even  at  this  aerial 
height,  the  eye  cannot  fathom  the  fissures  of  the  deep  streets.  The 
convent  is  at  present  occupied  as  a  hospital  of  invalid  soldiers.  A 
small  church  is  attached  to  it ;  but  neither  in  its  costly  embellishments, 
nor  in  the  neighbouring  villas,  to  which  we  extended  our  excursion, 
was  any  thing  observed  particularly  worthy  of  notice.  The  gardens 
are  delightful  in  situation  ;  but  their  walls  of  evergreen  have  been 
spoiled  by  the  shears  and  pruning-hook.  Terra  cotta  statues,  Venuses 
with  splintered  arms,  and  Emperors  with  broken  noses,  are  as  plenty 
as  blackberries. 

Under  the  walls  of  St.  Elmo,  a  spur  of  the  hills  called  the  Vomero 
shoots  out  at  right  angles  to  the  range,  terminating  at  the  margin  of 
the  bay  in  a  high  perpendicular  bluft',  and  dividing  the  town  into  two 
sections.  Its  summit  is  covered  with  buildings,  overhanging  the  streets 
and  quays  of  St.  Lucia  and  Chiatamone.  A  zig-zag  terrace  leads  to 
its  brow,  forming  a  connexion  between  the  upper  and  lower  world. 
Directly  under  its  clifts,  stands  the  Castello  del  Uovo,  the  Castle  of  the 
Egg — a  most  fragile  name  for  a  fortress  !  It  is  a  monstrous  pile,  seat- 
ed upoa  a  little  island,  once  the  villa  of  Lucullus,  which  was  separated 
from  the  main-land   by  an  earthquake,  and  is   now   reunited   by  a 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         221 

il raw-bridge.     This  and  St.  Elmo  constitute  the  only  defences  of  the 
town. 

From  tliis  point,  and  indeed  from  the  foot  of  the  Toledo,  a  fine  quay, 
tjuarded  by  a  balustrade,  extends  for  nearly  a  mile  along  the  shore  of 
the  bay.  Between  the  sea-wall  and  the  splendid  avenue  of  the  Chiaia, 
lies  tiie  Villa  Reale  in  the  form  of  a  parallelogram,  half  a  mile  in  length, 
and  perhaps  five  hundred  f(3et  in  width,  overhanging  the  water,  and  se- 
parated from  the  road  by  a  handsome  iron  railing.  It  is  intersected 
by  gravel  walks  in  all  possible  directions  ;  planted  with  acacia,  ilex, 
and  other  shrubbery,  in  the  style  of  English  park  scenery  ;  ornamented 
with  two  Grecian  temples,  one  dedicated  to  Virgil  and  the  other  to 
Tasso  ;  refreshed  with  fountains,  meagre  in  comparison  with  those  of 
Rome  ;  and  filled  with  statues,  chiefly  consisting  of  copies  of  the  most 
celebrated  pieces  in  Italy.  The  famous  Farnese  Bull  was  here  once 
turned  out  to  pasture,  but  is  now  confined  to  a  dark,  dirty  stall  in  the 
Museum.  Most  of  the  other  choice  articles  have  also  fled  for  covert, 
from  the  mildew  of  the  sea  air.  We  saw  half  a  dozen  lazzaroni  at 
work  with  liandspikes,  in  loading  upon  a  dray  some  colossal  god,  des- 
tined to  fill  a  niche  in  the  gallery. 

The  Royal  Villa  or  more  properly  Garden,  (for  there  is  no  lodge  in 
it  save  a  mean  cofl"ee-house,  where  the  Neapolitans  eat  ice-creams  and 
drink  beer,)  is  the  fashionable  promenade  for  the  higher  classes,  espe- 
cially on  Sunday  afternoon,  when  they  are  attracted  thither  by  the  mu- 
sic of  a  large  and  excellent  military  band.  On  these  occasions,  the 
whole  area,  is  filled  with  crowds  of  both  sexes,  in  dresses  more  splendid 
than  rich,  more  gaudy  than  neat.  All  the  beauty  which  the  city  can 
boast  flaunts  along  the  alleys,  and  Austrian  plumes  and  swords  glitter 
among  the  shades.  But  the  pedestrians  do  not  compose  the  whole  of 
the  group.  The  Chiaia  opposite  the  Garden,  open  to  it  on  one  side 
and  bordered  on  the  other  by  a  range  of  lofty  houses,  is  the  termina- 
tion of  .♦.he  Corso,  where  all  the  carriages  and  equij)ages  in  town  pa- 
rade every  evening.  Many  of  the  fashionables,  who  probably  dine  on 
macaroni  for  six  sous  a  head,*  appear  upon  the  course  in  style,  with 
footmen  in  livery  and  chasseurs  for  their  protectors  !  They  often  sit 
in  their  coaches  for  an  hour  at  a  time,  to  be  gazed  at  through  the  iron 
grates  of  the  Villa  Reale,  waiting  for  some  whiskered  hero  from  the 
banks  of  the  Danube  to  come  up  and  make  his  bow.  Even  Pat  was 
not  proof  to  the  contagion  of  example,  and  preferred  lounging  in  his 


*  I  am  iarormed  on  good  authority,  that  a  majority  of  the  Neiipolitans  live  foi' 
about  10  cents  per  head  a  day  for  food.  House  rent  is  high,  owing  to  a  heavr 
property  tax. 


2^2  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

barouche,  before  his  own  door,  to  looking  out  upon  the  multitude  from 
his  balconies. 

Our  voyage  terminated  at  the  Royal  Garden,  (for  which  by  the  l^ye 
the  Neapolitans  are  indebted  to  the  French  ;)  but  instead  of  lingering 
longer  amidst  its  bustle  and  gaiety,  let  us  walk  on  half  a  mile  beyond, 
climb  the  hill  of  Pausilypo,  and  muse  at  the  Tomb  of  Virgil.  I  have 
often  strolled  to  this  rural  retreat  and  read  many  a  favourite  passage 
of  the  poet  at  his  grave.  My  first  visit  was  at  sunset,  in  company 
with  the  American  Charge  des  Affaires  at  Naples,  the  United  States 
Consul,  and  others  of  our  countrymen.  We  were  all  delighted,  though 
to  most  of  the  party  the  scene  was  not  new.  The  mausoleum  is  situ- 
ated in  a  garden,  shaded  with  vines  and  fig  trees,  on  the  southern 
brow  of  the  hill,  commanding  one  of  the  finest  views  of  the  whole 
bay,  and  its  picturesque  borders.  Under  a  cliflT  overgrown  with  ilex, 
in  the  most  secluded  part  of  the  enclosure,  a  rude  monument  of  stone, 
in  a  ruinous  condition,  is  consecrated  by  the  name,  though  it  no 
longer  retains  the  dust,  of  the  poet.  The  interior  has  a  low  arched 
ceiling,  like  a  vault,  with  eight  niches  for  cinerary  urns  in  the  sides, 
and  three  windows  darkened  by  festoons  of  vines  and  ivy,  with  which 
the  outside  is  richly  mantled,  giving  it  the  appearance  of  a  green 
mound. 

A  tablet  on  the  cliflf  opposite  the  entrance  bears  the  following  in- 
scription : 

"  Qui  cineres  ?  tumuli  hsec  vestigia  ? — conditur  oljm 
Ille  hoc  qui  cecinit  pascua,  rura,  duces." 

'•  Whose  ashes — the  vestiges  of  whose  tomb  are  these  ?  Here  rests 
the  dust  of  the  poet,  who  sung  flocks,  tillage,  and  heroes."  Both  the 
Latin  and  punctuation  are  so  bad,  that  for  some  time  we  were  puzzled 
to  make  out  the  meaning  of  the  inscription.  On  turning  to  "  the 
Classical  Tour"  of  Eustace  for  assistance,  what  was  our  astonishment 
to  find  a  most  egregious  blunder  even  at  the  tomb  of  Virgil.  Instead 
of  giving  the  above  Hues,  he  places  the  following  on  the  selfsame 
tablet  : 

"  Mantua  me  genuit ;  Calabri  rapuere  :  tenet  nunc 
Parthenope,  cecini  pascua,  rura,  duces." 

He  introduces  this  old  distich  with  the  remark,  that  "  the  epitaph 
which,  though  not  genuine,  is  yet  ancient,''^  and  that  "  every  body  is  ac- 
quainted with  it!'"  Whereas  it  is  not  "  ancient,"  (for  it  bears  date  of 
♦he  16th  century  :)  and  there  was  one  traveller  at  least  who  knew  no- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  22'^ 

thing  about  it.  A  detection  of  this  gross  error  among  others  led  us 
to  believe,  that  tlie  charges  of  Hobhouse  against  the  authenticity  of 
Eustace  are  not  without  foundation. 

In  one  of  my  rambles  to  the  Tomb  of  Virgil,  I  visited  the  monu- 
ment of  Sannazaro,  the  great  Neapolitan  poet,  and  Secretary  of  Frede- 
rick II.  of  Arragon.  It  is  in  the  church  of  Santa  Maria  del  Porto, 
elevated  upon  the  acclivity  of  Pausi]yi)o,  and  overlooking  the  bay.  A 
superb  pile  of  white  marble  rises  behind  the  High  Altar.  The  front 
is  enriched  with  a  profusion  of  sculpture,  which  is  in  bad  taste.  In 
allusion  to  some  of  the  poet's  pastoral  writings,  the  skulls  of  two  sheep 
are  placed  among  the  ornaments  in  front !  But  this  is  not  the  most 
ridiculous  of  the  embellishments.  Upon  the  pedestal  of  the  statues  of 
Apollo  and  Minerva,  some  pious  monk  has  placed  labels  bearing  in 
large  letters  the  names  of  David  and  Judith,  thus  forcibly  converting 
the  heathen  divinities  into  Hebrew  saints,  witiiout  even  a  change  of  cos- 
tume !  The  inscription  on  the  tomb  pretends  to  compare  Sannazaro 
with  Virgil ;  but  it  is  enough  to  remark,  that  while  comparatively  few 
are  ac<juainted  with  the  former,  the  latter  is  read  throughout  the  civi- 
lized world.  Even  the  Neapolitan  children  lisp  his  name,  and  seem 
proud  of  showing  his  mausoleum.  In  the  same  church,  on  the  right 
of  the  front  door,  is  a  picture  of  the  archangel  Michael  trampling 
Satan  under  foot.  The  devil  is  represented  with  the  face  of  a  pretty 
Italian  woman,  who  is  said  to  have  fallen  in  love  with  a  certain  bishop, 
whose  name  has  escaped  me  ;  and  he,  gallant  man,  to  show  the  hein- 
pusness  of  her  passion,  directed  the  artist  to  clap  her  head  upon  the 
.shoulders  of  the  fallen  Spirit ! 

Thus  have  we  arrived  at  the  western  extremity  of  the  town,  which 
some  writers  have  pretended  to  say  is  twenty  miles  in  circuit.  But  it 
would  be  just  as  rational  to  talk  of  the  circumference  of  a  lobster, 
with  his  legs  inclusive  ;  for  it  is  spread  over  the  hills,  without  walls,  in 
an  irregular  form,  and  with  long  faubourgs  branching  out  in  all  di- 
rections. In  the  rapid  survey  of  its  prominent  features,  it  will  have 
been  seen,  that  few  antiquities  have  been  mentioned.  The  truth  is, 
that  Naples  itself  contains  none,  except  what  are  found  in  the  Mu- 
seum. Though  its  foundation  reaches  back  into  the  fabulous  ages, 
the  footsteps  of  the  Siren  Parthenope,  amidst  so  many  physical  and 
moral  convulsions,  have  been  washed  from  the  strand  and  obliterated 
from  the  hills.  Even  the  site  of  the  old  city,  before  its  destruction  by 
the  jealousy  of  the  Cuma^ans,  is  not  certainly  known.  Its  first  set- 
tlers were  of  Grecian  origin,  as  its  name  imports  ;  and  some  traces 
of  their  manners  and  customs  are  said  to  be  still  found  among  the  pea- 


224        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

santry.  It  does  not  appear  to  have  attained  to  much  magnitude  or 
importance  till  the  age  of  Augustus ;  and  in  the  revolutions  of  mo- 
dern Italy,  its  history  is  not  very  interesting,  having  done  little  else 
than  change  masters,  without  the  display  of  any  of  those  heroic  virtues, 
which  characterized  the  Republics  of  the  north.  Napoleon  used  to 
say,  that  the  Neapolitans  were  the  only  people,  out  of  whom  he  could 
not  make  soldiers. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  225 


LETTER  LXIII. 

NAPLES  CONTINCKD CHURCnES CATHEDRAL MIKaCLE  OF  ST.  JAXUA- 

KIUS — RELIGIOUS     FESTIVALS — ST.     SINCERO — MUSEUM KINO's    PA- 
LACE. 

iVcry,  182G. 

With  the  e.vception  of  its  charming  scenery,  its  chmatc,  and  its  in- 
teresting environs,  Naples  presents  much  fewer  attractions  to  the  tra- 
veller, than  cither  Florence  or  Rome.  Tlie  style  of  architecture  is 
generally  in  bad  taste,  from  the  King's  Palaces  downward  ;  and  the 
churches  will  bear  no  comparison,  either  externally  or  internally,  with 
those  upon  the  Tiber  and  the  Arno.  We  visited  the  most  celebrated 
of  the  three  hundred^  which  the  city  contains  !  The  Cathedral,  not- 
withstanding its  porphyry  portals,  its  hundred  columns  of  Egyptian 
granite,  its  Mosaic  pavement,  the  embellishments  of  its  high  altar, 
and  its  candelabra  of  jasper,  is  a  heavy,  uninteresting  building,  pre- 
senting ^e\\  objects  to  detain  the  visitant.  It  was  our  misfortune  to 
miss  the  liquefaction  of  the  blood  of  St.  Januarius,  the  Patron  of  the 
city.  One  of  the  three  annual  miracles  occurred  a  {ew  days  before 
our  arrival.  A  surgeon  in  the  United  States  Navy,  alluded  to  in  some 
of  my  former  letters,  witnessed  the  ceremony,  and  described  it  to  us. 
It  was  a  rare  show,  and  the  priests  succeeded  in  the  experiment  to  a 
charm,  with  peals  of  applause  from  the  audience !  In  the  opinion 
of  our  philosophical  friend,  the  whole  miracle  is  wrought  by  the  natu- 
ral warmth  of  the  hand,  operating  upon  the  bottle,  as  upon  a  pulse- 
glass.  A  French  juggler  at  the  Cafe  des  Aveugles,  would  show  oft'  a 
hundred  such  tricks  in  a  night.  It  is  a  moot  point,  whether  the 
priests  believe  in  this  miracle  or  not.  The  faith  of  the  multitude  is 
undoubted,  and  their  hopes  of  the  year  rise  and  fall  with  the  ther- 
mometer, charged  with  the  blood  of  the  Saint !  If  it  melts  speedily, 
then  prosperity  awaits  them  ;  but  if  the  fusion  is  obstinate,  they  rend 
the  air  with  cries,  believing  that  earthquakes,  war,  famine,  and  pesti- 
lence, are  in  store.  y 

With  all  their  vices  and  moral  degradation,  there  is  not  probably  so 
superstitious  a  nation  in  Christendom  as  the  Neapolitans.  Half  of  their 
time  is  occupied  in  marching  about  the  streets,  from  church  to  church 
in  ragged  and  masked  processions,  bawling  the  ora  pro  nobis.     We 

VOL.  II.  29 


226         LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE. 

were  at  several  of  their  great  religious  festivals.*  On  these  occasions, 
temporary  altars  were  erected  at  short  intervals  along  the  Toledo  and 
other  principal  streets,  at  which  the  priests  officiated  in  turn,  the  as- 
sembled city  kneeling  upon  the  pavement.  The  windows  and  balco- 
nies of  every  house  were  hung  with  awnings  and  crimson  banners  ; 
and  galleries  of  ladies  above,  in  full  dresses  and  with  angel  faces,  scat- 
tered showers  of  roses,  for  monks  to  trample  upon,  in  their  migrations 
from  one  altar  to  another.  Females  are  not  exempts  in  these  musters. 
They  do  not  indeed  bear  arms  like  the  other  sex,  each  of  whom  carries 
a  hghted  candle,  chanting  all  the  while.  A  line  of  servants  on  each 
side  hold  the  hats  of  the  priests,  flanked  by  another  line  of  boys  catch- 
ing the  grease  of  the  candles.  The  royal  family  join  in  the  mumme- 
ly.  A  band  of  Austrian  soldiers  always  precedes  and  closes  these  re- 
ligious processions  to  keep  them  in  order !  Some  one  of  the  pious 
throng  picked  my  pockets,  while  I  was  gazing  to  see  the  queen  pass — 
V  V  the  only  accident  of  the  kind  which  has  befallen  me  in  all  sorts  of  crowds, 

and  which  amounted  merely  to  the  loss  of  a  handkerchief. 
^^ —  In  the  Chiara,  one  of  the  largest  and  handsomest  churches  at  Naples, 
the  cicerone  shows  a  spiral,  fluted  pillar,  which  he  declares  belonged 
to  the  temple  of  Solomon  at  Jerusalem.  It  is  evidently  Gothic  in  its 
origin.  There  are  more  ruins  of  this  description  in  Italy,  than  v/ould 
make  a  mountain  twice  the  size  of  Moriah.  The  church  of  the  Jesuits, 
near  the  Chiara,  has  been  rent  asunder  by  an  earthquake,  in  one  of  the 
eruptions  of  Vesuvius.  A  wide  fissure  is  still  visible  in  the  frescoed 
ceiling.  In  our  rounds  among  the  priesthood,  a  stripling  was  found  in 
a  black  coat  and  cocked  hat,  who  could  not  read  his  own  language. 
He  was  however  a  placeman,  and  did  not  officiate  at  the  altar. 

The  church  of  St.  Sincere  is  decidedly  the  most  interesting  at  Na- 
ples, on  account  of  three  curious  specimens  of  the  arts  it  contains,  ori- 
ginal both  in  design  and  execution.  One  of  these  is  an  image  of  the 
Saviour  after  his  crucifixion,  in  white  marble,  with  a  veil  thrown  over 
the  corpse,  cut  from  the  solid  material.  It  appeared  to  me  not  only 
a  novelty,  but  a  masterpiece  of  sculpture,  in  form,  feature,  and  attitude. 
But  above  all,  the  veil  strikes  the  spectator  with  admiration.  It  is  so 
true  to  nature,  that  its  folds  actually  appear  moistened  with  the  sweat 
of  death,  and  so  transparent  as  not  in  the  least  to  conceal  the  expres- 


*  On  the  feast  of  Corpus  Domini^  one  of  the  public  squares  was  embowered  with 
evergreens,  and  a  two  story  Ionic  temple  erected  pro  tempore  in  the  centre — the 
•whole  illuminated  at  ni?ht. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 


227 


-sion  of  the  face.  The  other  two  .stiitues  are  of  similar  workmanship. 
One  of  them  represents  Modesty,  entirely  covered  with  a  marble  veil 
apparently  as  fine  as  lace,  and  wrought  in  the  most  exquisite  manner. 
The  statue  itself  is  bad,  being  too  gross  for  a  less  delicate  goddess 
than  Modesty — a  general  fault  in  female  figures  among  Italian  artists, 
even  to  their  Venuses,  arising  perhaps  from  the  fulness  of  the  originals. 
Some  of  our  guide-books  call  the  remaining  statue  "  the  victim  of  Vice 
extricating  himself  from  a  net,  by  aid  of  the  Genius  of  good  sense." 
If  this  long  label  be  correct,  the  Virtue  is  very  oddly  personified  ;  for 
he  appears  in  the  questionable  shape  of  the  urchin  Cupid,  casting  a 
sly  look  at  the  victim  entangled  in  his  meshes,  raising  a  portion  of  the 
net  with  one  hand,  and  with  the  other  pointing  to  the  globe,  to  express 
the  ubiquity  of  his  empire.  The  shoemaker  who  keeps  the  keys  of 
the  church,  and  who  is  perhaps  a  descendant  of  the  one  that  criticised 
the  work  of  Apelles,  gave  it  as  his  decided  opinion,  that  the  winged 
boy  is  an  angel— probably  so  christened  like  David  and  Judith,  to 
qualify  him  for  his  present  situation.  In  drapery  and  execution,  this 
group  is  not  inferior  to  the  others.  There  arc  many  sepulchral  monu- 
ments in  this  church,  and  much  good  sculpture. 

The  Studii  Pubblici,  or  Royal  Academy  of  the  Arts,  is  such  an  im- 
mense building,  and  contains  such  a  multiplicity  of  objects,  that  I 
almost  recoil  from  the  task  of  retracing  its  halls.  A  fev/  only  of  the 
most  interesting  articles  will  be  selected  for  notice.  The  Museum 
occupies  two  stories,  ranged  in  long  galleries  round  a  spacious  court, 
which  is  filled  with  antiquities,  embracing  numerous  s{)ecimens  of  the 
fine  arts,  as  well  as  utensils,  illustrative  of  domestic  life  among  the 
ancients.  The  apartments  in  the  basement  are  appropriated  chiefly 
to  statuary,  cither  in  marble,  bronze,  or  terra  cotta,  (baked  earth.) 
Most  of  the  articles  in  this  endless  collection  were  found  in  Ilcrcu- 
laneum  and  Pompeii. 

In  the  hall  to  the  loll,  on  entering  the  front  door,  and  after  passing 
Jupiter  and  Juno,  still  claiming  the  right  to  preside  over  their  quon- 
dam votaries,  the  visitant  finds  the  whole  family  of  the  Balbi,  two  of 
them  equestrian  statues,  in  Greek  marble— all  disinterred  from  Iler- 
culaneum.  There  is  no  room  for  doubting  the  antiquity  of  these 
specimens  of  the  arts.  Here  they  are,  just  as  they  were  taken  from 
a  bed  of  lava,  in  which  they  lay  embalmed  for  some  two  thousand 
years.  The  mind  reposes  on  them  with  confidence,  as  a  connecting 
link  between  the  ancient  and  modern  world.  It  is  not  a  little  humili- 
ating to  the  pride  of  man,  prone  to  fancy  the  present  age  always  the 
wisest,  and  to  regard  those  that  are  past  as  comparatively  barbarous, 
to  contemplate  these  undoubted  specimens  of  the  fine  arts,  which  the 


228  LETTEllS  FROM  EUROPE. 

skill  of  the  greatest  masters  of  the  present  day  could  scarcely  hope  to 
equal.  So  has  it  been  with  painting,  with  architecture,  with  poetry, 
history,  and  eloquence.  In  the  exhibition  of  genius,  taste,  and  re- 
finement, it  may  be  asked  with  emphasis,  what  has  the  world  gained 
since  the  Augustan  ages  of  Greece  and  Rome  ? — In  some  of  the 
above-mentioned  departments,  particularly  in  architecture,  a  declen- 
sion is  obvious  ;  and  every  deviation  from  the  Grecian  orders  has 
been  a  departure  from  taste  It  is  enough  to  say,  that  Canova  at  the 
height  of  his  fame  could  not  have  fashioned  a  finer  horse,  than  that  on 
which  the  younger  Balbus  is  seated. 

In  the  same  gallery  is  the  colossal  Hercules,  found  in  the  Baths  of 
Caracalla  at  Rome.  The  demigod  is  represented  at  the  moment  pre- 
vious to  his  apotheosis,  after  having  finished  his  labours.  He  is  in  the 
attitude  of  leaning  on  his  club,  and  expresses  great  composure  both 
in  his  .face  and  position.  On  the  pedestal  is  the  label  of  the  old 
Greek — "  Glycon,  the  Athenian,  made  it."  By  the  bye,  I  observe  in 
these  inscriptions,  that  the  imperfect  tense  and  the  first  aorist  of  the 
Greek  verb  are  used  indiscriminately ;  and  as  the  action  in  all  these 
instances  must  have  been  precisely  the  same,  the  usages  of  common 
life  are  good  authority  for  proving,  that  there  is  not  a  shade  of  differ- 
ence in  those  two  tenses. 

Near  to  Hercules  stands  the  colossal  Flora,  dug  from  the  same  ruins. 
Her  proportions  have  been  much  admired  ;  but  she  has  no  charms  for 
me.  Gigantic  females  are  always  monsters,  and  look  even  worse  than 
the  other  sex,  when  overstepping  the  modesty  of  nature.  The  Faun 
and  infant  Bacchus  are  beautiful.  Extravagant  eulogies  have  been 
lavished  on  Agrippina,  the  mother  of  Nero,  seated,  and  taken  at  the 
moment  of  receiving  the  intelligence  of  her  proscription  by  her  unna- 
tural son.  It  is  a  good  statue  ;  but  the  exquisite  poetry  and  pathos, 
which  others  have  found  in  the  face,  could  not  be  discovered.  As 
for  the  torsos  ascribed  to  Phidias  and  Praxiteles,  I  leave  them  to  artists 
and  amateurs,  preferring  myself  to  look  at  whole  subjects  rather  than 
at  broken  limbs.  The  vases,  candelabra,  and  other  marbles  found  at 
Herculaneum  and  Pompeii,  are  highly  interesting.  Here  is  a  magni- 
ficent porphyry  basin,  or  reservoir,  taken  from  the  temple  of  ^Escula- 
pius.  Corn-mills  and  oil-rnills,  curiously  constructed  of  lava,  elucidate 
the  ancient  state  of  the  useful  arts.  In  the  article  of  grinding^  the 
moderns  have  decidedly  the  advantage  of  the  old  Greeks  and  Romans  ! 
Nati  consumer c  fanes. 

In  the  hall  of  the  Muses,  the  whole  sisterhood  are  assembled,  wearing 
their  appropriate  emblems.  They  have  the  room  entirely  to  them- 
selves, and  appear  to  be  engaged  in  a  private  concert.     They  were 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         229 

uninjured  by  the  burning  torrents  of  lava,  which  once  rolled  above 
them.  The  group  is  highly  interesting,  both  as  specimens  of  the  arts, 
and  as  furnishing  a  hundred  illustrations  of  the  classics.  Another 
apartment  is  appropriated  almost  exclusively  to  Venuses.  Here  may 
be  seen  ail  sorts  of  images  of  the  goddess  of  beauty  and  love,  though 
in  some  of  her  forms  and  attitudes,  she  appears  neither  beautiful  nor 
lovely.  One  of  them  is  set  up  as  the  rival  of  the  Venus  de  Medicis ; 
but  she  has  a  scornful  curl  of  the  lip,  and  is  unworthy  to  be  the  cham- 
bermaid of  the  latter.  The  "Venere  Calhpyge"  is  the  most  popular 
of  the  group.  She  is  enamoured  of  her  own  charms,  which  are  inde- 
.-icribable.*  The  "  Venus  Genetrix"  appeared  to  me  the  finest  of  the 
lot.  Her  expression  is  good,  and  her  hands  admirable  ;  but  peacock- 
like, her  feet  are  shocking,  looking  as  if  she  laboured  under  a  fit  of 
the  gout. 

The  Halls  of  Atlas  and  Antinous  are  filled  with  authentic  busts  of  the 
philosophers,  poets,  orators,  and  oilier  grout  men  of  Greece  and  Rome. 
Most  of  them  were  found  in  the  ruins  of  Hcrculaneum,  and  are  inva- 
luable, both  as  works  of  art,  and  as  furnishing  more  probable  likenesses 
of  the  distinguished  originals,  than  can  be  obtained  from  any  other 
source.  An  examination  of  this  collection  has  had  a  strong  tendency 
to  strengthen  my  faith  in  antiques.  The  disinterment  of  these  trea- 
sures carries  us  back  with  absolute  certainty  to  the  commencement  of 
the  Christian  era  ;  and  this  is  of  no  small  moment,  considering  what 
Gothic  ages  are  to  be  waded  through,  in  reaching  that  period.  As 
the  Greek  artists  were  remarkable  for  their  accuracy  in  the  delineation 
of  natural  objects,  they  probably  exhibited  the  same  skill  and  fidelity 
in  copying  the  human  face  ;  and  while  surveying  the  busts  of  Homer, 
Anacreon,  Herodotus,  Thucydides,  I^ycurgus,  Solon,  Periander,  De- 
mosthenes, and  a  hundred  others,  I  really  began  to  think,  for  the  first 
time,  tliat  we  have  something  like  a  correct  idea  of  their  countenances. 
There  are  here  several  heads  of  Cicero,  which  date  back  almost  to  his 
own  period.  The  bust  of  Aristides  is  reckoned  one  of  the  most  admirable 
productions  of  Grecian  skill.  But  a  gallery  is  the  dullest  of  all  places 
to  a  reader  ;  and  a  catalogue  of  statues  is  as  uninteresting  as  a  cata- 
logue of  books.     Let  us  therefore  vary  the  topic. 

A  large  apartment  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  court  is  appropriated 
to  Egyptian  antiquities,  which  are  extremely  valuable  as  being  authen- 


*  Indelicate  as  this  statue  is,  we  saw  a  gentlpman  and  two  ladifs,  geiileel  in  Iheiv 
appearance,  walk  up  and  examine  it  without  the  least  reserve,  conversing  freely 
of  its  merits.  The  modesty,  or  squeamishness  if  you  please,  of  American  ladies 
is  worth  more  than  all  the  fine  arts  in  Italy. 


230        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

tic,  and  illustrative  of  the  religion  of  that  nation.  Here  are  deposited 
all  the  gods  and  idols  of  the  East,  together  with  the  whole  complex 
apparatus  of  polytheism.  The  collection  is  much  more  extensive 
than  the  corresponding  department  in  the  Capitoline  Museum  at  Rome. 
Small  vases,  lachrymatories,  and  incense-bottles  are  without  number. 
The  original  of  Canova's  Boxers  stand  at  one  end  of  the  hall.  They 
appear  to  be  out  of  place  among  the  pigmy  divinities  of  the  Nile.  In 
fact,  the  articles  of  the  Studii  generally  appear  to  be  ill  assorted,  and 
arranged  or  rather  thrown  together,  without  much  system. 

On  the  same  side  of  the  court  is  the  gallery  of  ancient  bronzes^ — 
by  far  the  most  interesting  room  in  the  basement  story,  and  much  the 
best  collection  of  the  kind,  that  has  ever  fallen  within  my  sphere  of 
observation.  I  have  paid  it  frequent  visits,  and  never  without  instruc- 
tion and  pleasure.  It  furnishes  demonstrable  evidence,  that  in  this 
department  of  the  fine  arts  antiquity  much  surpassed  the  present  age. 
The  most  interesting  article  perhaps  is  the  bust  of  Seneca,  vihich  is 
indeed  a  masterpiece.  No  artist  could  fancy  such  a  face,  and  its  deep, 
philosophical,  care-worn  lines  must  have  been  drawn  from  the  life. 
The  statues  of  a  Faun  and  a  Youth  are  extremely  fine.  They  stand 
on  pedestals  richly  inlaid  with  silver — a  species  of  ornament  which 
now  appears  to  be  in  a  great  measure  lost.  Here  is  the  colossal  head 
of  what  is  denominated  Virgil's  horse — a  magnificent  statue,  which 
once  stood  before  the  Cathedral.  The  multitude  believed  that  it  was 
cast  by  the  poet,  or  magician,  as  they  considered  him,  and  that  it 
possessed  the  virtue  of  curing  all  sick  horses  led  round  it.  This  super- 
stition seems  to  have  originated  in  fact.  Virgil  in  the  early  part  of 
his  life  was  the  greatest  farrier  of  all  antiquity,  and  to  his  professional 
skill  as  a  horse-doctor,  he  owed  his  introduction  to  Augustus.  As 
the  neighing  of  steeds,  so  near  the  Cathedral,  disturbed  the  repose  of 
the  asses  that  occupied  its  stalls.  Cardinal  Caraffa  resorted  to  the  ex- 
pedient of  melting  down  the  bronze  horse,  with  the  exception  of  his 
head,  for  the  purpose  of  ridding  himself  of  the  nuisance  ! 

Among  the  other  articles  of  primary  interest  are  the  busts  of  Scipio 
Africanus  and  the  dictator  Sylla.  The  face  of  the  former  bears  a 
striking  resemblance  to  that  of  General  Washington,  particularly  his 
mouth  and  chin.  A  head  of  Sappho  has  not  a  single  feature  of  the 
one  in  the  Museum  at  Rome.  Charity  to  the  poetess,  as  well  as 
reason,  will  incline  the  visitant  to  believe  this  the  most  authentic  as  it 
is  much  the  finest.  One  of  the  busts  has  silver  eyes,  which  look 
shockingly  contrasted  with  the  black  material.  In  the  centre  of  the 
room  is  a  statue  of  Mercury  seated.  His  light,  exquisite  form  rivals 
the  image  of  the  same  god  by  John  di  Bologna  at  Florence.     Near 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        231 

lam  are  two  Discoboli,  admirable  in  their  proportions  and  workman- 
ship. A  brace  of  deer  and  a  horse — the  latter  supposed  to  have 
adorned  the  theatre  at  Ilerculaneum — furnish  evidence  with  what 
perfect  accuracy  the  ancients  delineated  animals.  Copies  and  prints 
of  the  most  celebrated  articles  in  this  collection  have  been  repeatedly 
taken.     The  latter  are  kept  for  sale  by  the  Custodc, 

In  an  adjoining  room,  dark,  in  an  unfinished  state,  and  blocked  up 
with  all  sorts  of  rubbish,  is  the  celebrated  Farnese  Bull,  found  in  the 
Baths  of  Caracalla.  It  was  brought  from  Rhodes  to  Rome,  and  is 
supposed  to  be  the  work  of  two  Grecian  artists,  executed  something 
like  two  centuries  before  the  Christian  era.  The  whole  group  is  cut 
from  one  block  of  white  marble,  and  consists  of  six  figures  in  all,  re- 
presenting the  fable  of  Amphion  and  Zethus  tying  Dirce  by  the  hair 
to  the  horns  of  the  bull.  All  the  figures,  save  the  two  former,  who 
are  holding  the  animal  and  exhibit  great  tension  of  muscle,  are  seated 
in  front.  The  pile,  now  shattered  into  a  thousand  fragments,  is  mount- 
ed on  a  high  wooden  frame,  and  the  different  parts  kept  in  place  by  as 
many  splinters  and  ropes,  as  are  used  in  the  rigging  of  a  ship.  In 
this  situation,  ii  is  very  difficult  to  obtain  a  fair  view  of  the  work,  and 
to  form  an  opinion  of  its  merits.  Tlie  fiery  t^pirit  of  the  bull  struck  us 
as  the  only  peculiarly  fine  point  in  the  group. 

Let  us  now  ascend  a  stately,  handsome  stair-way,  and  retrace  our 
steps  through  the  labyrinth  of  the  second  story,  with  all  convenient 
despatch.  One  suite  of  rooms  are  appropriated  to  antiquities  disin- 
terred from  Herculaneum  and  Pompeii,  consisting  chiefly  of  household 
furniture,  domestic  utensils,  and  personal  ornaments,  presenting  a  vivid 
picture  of  ancient  manners.  Suppose  the  houses  of  an  American 
city,  to  be  buried  in  a  moment  with  all  their  contents  ;  to  lie  undis- 
turbed for  seventeen  hundred  years ;  and  then  to  be  opened  with  all 
the  articles  of  furniture  comparatively  uninjured — and  some  idea  may 
be  formed  of  the  nature  of  this  museum.  So  perfectly  is  the  image 
preserved,  that  the  very  bread  is  still  seen  with  the  baker's  stamp  upon 
it.  The  ten  thousand  little  knick-knacks  of  kitchens,  parlours,  bed- 
chambers, dinner  tables,  and  toilets,  are  here  displayed,  in  almost  as 
entire  and  fresh  a  state,  as  if  they  had  been  used  yesterday.  Time 
seems  to  have  paused  as  it  regards  the  contents  of  this  cabinet,  and  the 
lapse  of  nearly  two  thousand  years  to  be  annihilated.  Combs,  rings, 
jewels,  and  female  trinkets  without  number  attract  the  attention  of  the 
visitant.  But  it  is  impossible  to  specify,  without  entering  into  the 
whole  circle  of  domestic  economy,  and  making  out  inventories  of 
dwelling  houses.  The  large  articles  arc  arranged  in  groups  along  the 
middle  of  the  rooms,  and  the  small  ones  are  carefully  preserved  in  glass 


232        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

cases  lining  the  walls.  Several  keepers  are  always  in  waiting,  and 
manifest  a  good  deal  of  patience  as  well  as  courtesy  in  satisfying  the 
curiosity  of  strangers.  Had  it  been  possible,  the  contents  of  the  mu- 
seum should  have  been  left  in  the  locahties,  just  as  they  were  found,  on 
opening  the  graves  of  the  two  cities. 

Without  following  the  cicerones  for  the  third  or  fourth  time  round 
the  apartments,  I  will  merely  remark,  that  the  pride  of  knowledge  as 
it  regards  the  useful  arts,  is  here  as  effectually  humbled,  as  the  vanity 
of  genius  and  taste  is  in  the  gallery  below.  In  the  conveniences  and 
comforts  of  domestic  life — in  lamps,  stoves,  and  culinary  utensils,  the 
citizens  of  Herculaneum  and  Pompeii  were  far  in  advance  of  the  mo- 
dern Italians,  and  scarcely  inferior  to  any  nation.  All  the  metals  were 
used  in  the  construction  of  furniture,  and  the  workmanship  is  decidedly 
more  finished  than  that  of  corresponding  articles  at  the  present  day. 
The  glass  is  as  perfect  as  our  own,  and  used  for  bottles  and  cups  in  the 
same  manner.  With  respect  to  the  luxuries  of  life,  the  refinements  of 
the  present  age  will  not  sustain  a  comparison  with  the  past.  One  of 
the  cabinets  is  filled  with  cameos,  intaglios,  seals,  jewels,  gems,  and 
personal  ornaments  of  all  descriptions,  which  surprise  the  spectator  by 
the  richness  of  the  material,  and  the  exquisite  beauty  of  the  workman- 
ship. Among  these  is  the  magnificent  clouded  agate,  exhibiting  the 
head  of  Medusa,  found  in  the  tomb  of  Adrian. 

In  one  important  respect,  however,  the  world  has  improved  since 
the  commencement  of  the  christian  era.  Some  of  the  decorations,  if 
such  they  may  be  called,  found  in  the  dwelling  houses  of  the  two  buried 
cities,  manifest  a  degree  of  licentiousness  of  morals  and  grossness  of 
vice,  to  which  modern  society,  in  the  lowest  depths  of  degradation, 
can  probably  furnish  no  parallel.  There  is  reason  to  believe,  that  these 
depravations  of  mind  and  taste  were  not  confined  to  particular  classes 
of  the  community,  or  concealed  from  public  view.  The  picture  of 
the  corruptions  of  the  age,  which  is  drawn  in  a  passage  of  Paul's 
Epistle  to  the  Romans,  is  forcibly  illustrated  by  the  contents  of  one  of 
the  rooms*  in  the  Studii.  Sodom  and  Gomorrah,  when  like  Hercula- 
neum and  Pompeii,  they  were  deluged  with  fire  and  overwhelmed  in 
ruin,  could  not  have  sunk  to  greater  depths  of  depravity,  or  have  present- 
ed vice  under  more  brutal  and  disgusting  forms. 

From  the  cabinet  of  antiquities,  we  were  conducted  into  another 
long  suite  of  apartments,  containing  a  public  library  of  300,000  vo- 

*  This  apartment  is  secret,  and  very  seldom  opened  to  the  inspection  of  visit- 
ants. We  were  indebted  to  the  active  kindness  of  the  American  Consul  for  per- 
mission to  enter. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        233 

luincs — one  of  the  largest  in  the  world.  The  books  are  neatly  arran- 
ged in  compartments,  and  labelled  according  to  their  subjects.  They 
do  not  bear  the  marks  of  being  much  used,  though  a  large  number  of 
people  were  sitting  reading  at  tlie  tables,  with  an  Austrian  soldier,  arm- 
ed with  his  gun  and  bayonet,  pacing  the  hall,  to  keep  the  literati  in 
order!  What  an  image  of  degradation  is  here  presented  1  It  is  the 
first  instance  of  the  kind  that  we  have  witnessed  in  any  country,  and 
will  probably  be  the  last.  Even  the  French  government  would  not 
dare  go  to  such  lengths  with  native  troops — much  less  with  foreign 
mercenaries.  But  the  Neapolitans  suffer  themselves  to  be  trampled 
into  the  dust  by  their  cousins  of  Austria,  without  manifesting  the  least 
spirit  of  opposition  or  resentment. 

The  ecliptic  is  delineated  on  the  pavement  of  the  great  hall,  exhi- 
biting a  graduated  scale  and  the  signs  of  the  zodiac.  Large  celestial 
and  terrestrial  globes  are  among  the  furniture,  which  is  very  scanty, 
embracing  neither  astronomical  nor  philosophical  instruments.  The 
librarian  showed  us  a  number  of  rare  manuscripts,  comprising  atreatise 
on  beauty  by  Tasso,  in  his  own  hand  writing — the  original  works  of 
Thomas  Aquinas — and  copies  of  the  fragments  recovered  from  Hcrcu- 
laneum  and  Pompeii.  Infinite  pains  have  been  taken  to  make  out  the 
latter.  All  the  words  and  letters  clearly  distinguishable  are  in  black, 
and  the  hiatuses,  supplied  by  conjectures  and  analogies,  in  red  ink.  In 
a  neighbouring  room,  we  saw  the  scholars  patiently  at  work,  in  unroll- 
ing the  black  parchment,  burnt  to  a  cinder.  It  is  the  most  tedious 
process  imaginable,  requiring  unceasing  care,  and  the  utmost  delicacy 
of  manipulation.  A  breath  is  sufficient  to  disturb  the  gossamer  folds. 
The  operation  is  performed  by  a  screw,  communicating  a  gentle  equa- 
ble motion  to  numerous  silken  threads  attached  to  the  leaf;  and  the 
back  of  the  parchment  is  secured  by  paper  and  gum-arabic,  as  fast  as  it 
is  unrolled.  Several  large  cases  of  manuscripts  are  yet  to  undergo 
the  process,  and  no  one  can  say  what  new  treasures  may  be  added  to 
those  already  discovered. 

The  collection  of  pictures  at  the  Studii  is  meagre  in  comparison 
with  the  galleries  at  Rome  and  Florence.  Scattered  through  half  a 
dozen  rooms,  filled  with  much  lumber,  are  the  frescos  from  Hercula- 
neum  and  Pompeii.  They  have  lately  been  removed  from  the  Museum 
at  Portici  and  are  not  yet  arranged.  Most  of  them  are  so  mutilated 
and  defaced,  as  to  be  unintelligible  in  design,  and  to  aflbrd  but  imper- 
fect means  of  judging  of  their  merits.  Tiiey  were  tlie  common  orna- 
ments of  the  houses,  and  claim  an  equal  or  superior  rank  to  works  of 
the  same  class  at  the  present  day.  There  is  a  modern  painting  in 
these  rooms,  which  makes  one  laugh,  though  the  subject  is  grave.     It 

VOL.  11.  30 


234         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

is  Deliah  clipping  the  locks  of  Sampson.  Instead  of  wielding  the 
scissors,  befitting  the  soft  and  taper  fingers  of  beauty,  she  grasps  in 
her  fist  a  huge  pair  of  sheep-shears,  which  might  serve  for  the  guillo- 
tine of  the  giant,  and  the  mere  sound  of  which  would  be  sufficient  to 
break  his  voluptuous  slumbers. 

Nearly  all  the  pictures  worth  looking  at  are  contained  in  one  hall. 
The  most  celebrated  are  a  Holy  Family,  a  Madonna,  Leo  X.  and  two 
Cardinals,  and  a  portrait,  all  by  Raphael.     These  are  finished  produc- 
tions ;    for  the  artist  never  permitted  any  thing  to  go  out  of  his  hands 
unfinished.     He  touched  nothing  which  he  did  not  adorn.     The  Pope 
and  his  brace  of  Cardinals  are  in  his  happiest  style  ;    but  the  others, 
perhaps  from  the  commonness  of  the  subject,  did  not  strike  us  so 
forcibly.     His  portrait  of  his  Mother  is  also  here.     If  his  filial  piety 
has  flattered  or  even  done  justice  to  her  face,  she  must  have  been  a 
very  ordinary  woman  ;    for  her  likeness  exhibits  no  traces  of  either 
beauty  or  intellect.     Domenichino's  guardian  angel,  protecting  a  child 
from  the  devil,  is  a  beautiful  production.     The  attitude  and  innocence 
of  the  child  are  pecuUarly  forcible.     Danae,  a  Magdalen,  and  several 
portraits  by  Titian  are  much  admired  ;    but  I  have  not  yet  learned  to 
estimate  this  artist's  merits.     Some  of  his  female  forms  are  certainly 
repulsive.     Guercino's  Magdalen  ;   St.  John,  by  Leonardo  da  Vinci ; 
and  a  landscape,  by  Claude,  are  all  reckoned  among  the  gems  of  the 
gallery.     But  what  shall  we  say  of  the  subjects  of  some  of  the  others  ? 
— Corregio  has   painted  the  Saviour  playing  with  a  rabbit! — In  a 
representation  of  the  Assumption  of  the  Virgin,  a  choir  of  angels  are 
the  musicians  ;  one  of  them  plays  the  fiddle^  (whether  second!  or  jirst^ 
I  am  not  amateur  enough  to  know,)  and  another,  the  guitar!     Here 
is  a  female,  plunging  a  dagger  up  to  the  hilt  in  her  bosom  :    here  too 
are  St.  Bartholomew,   icith  the  saw  stuck  in  his  head^  and  St.  Law- 
rence on  the  gridiron !    Such  pictures  may  serve  to  amuse  or  frighten 
children,  but  persons  of  sense  will  turn  away  from  them  in  disgust. 

Next  to  the  Studii,  the  most  extensive  collection  of  paintings  is 
found  in  the  King's  Palace.  Our  reception  at  the  portals  of  the  royal 
residence  was  not  very  prepossessing  to  republicans.  The  rain  pour- 
ed in  torrents  on  the  day  of  our  visit ;  and  none  but  private  carriages 
are  allowed  to  drive  into  the  court.  As  we  happened  to  be  in  a  fiacre, 
it  was  necessary  to  wade  across  the  street,*  and  sue  for  admission  of 
the  Austrian  mercenaries,  who  guard  the  gate.     The  custodes  of  the 


*  The  Neapolitan?,  in  some  of  their  streets,  have  bridges  mounted  on  trucks,  for 
the  convenience  of  crossing  during  heavy  rains — a  good  idea.  There  are  none  be- 
fore the  Royal  Talacc. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         235 

palace  were,  however,  polite,  and  in  his  Majesty's  absence,  conducted 
us  over  every  part  of  the  cstahlishmont.  One  of  them  had  a  written 
list  or  inventory  of  all  the  objects  to  be  seen  ;  and  as  an  English 
family  happened  in  at  the  same  moment,  and  went  the  rounds  with  us, 
lie  read  aloud  for  the  benefit  of  the  whole  party.  lie  appeared  to  be 
a  novice  in  the  business,  and  often  laughed  at  the  awkwardness  of  his 
own  functions. 

Our  examination  began  with  the  theatre,  which  is  neat  but  not 
splendid.  Thence  opened  a  long  suite  of  comparatively  vacant  apart- 
ments, with  fresco  ceilings,  and  brick  or  composition  lloors,  painted 
of  a  bright  red  colour  and  highly  varnished.  It  is  almost  as  difficult 
to  stand  upon  them  as  upon  ice,  and  the  royal  family  have  doubtless 
had  many  a  fall,  even  since  (lie  days  of  Napoleon.  The  saloons  gene- 
rally will  bear  no  comparison  with  those  of  the  Grand  Duke  of  Tus- 
cany at  Florence,  either  in  fixtures  or  furniture.  In  the  audience 
chamber,  or  hall  of  the  throne,  there  is  some  display  of  splendour. 
The  walls  and  scat  of  majesty  are  hung  with  crimson  tapestry,  richly 
embroidered  with  gold,  and  bearing  the  national  arms  of  Naples  and 
Sicily — the  former  a  horse,  and  the  latter  three  legs  with  a  head  in  the 
centre,  a  symbol  worthy  of  the  fabled  monsters  of  Trinacria.  The 
royal  bed-chamber  and  the  late  Queen's  cabinet  are  both  pretty  rooms. 
From  the  latter,  a  door  opens  upon  a  terrace,  commanding  a  fine  view 
of  the  bay  and  the  distant  mountains.  Adjacent  to  the  bed-chamber 
is  the  bath,  which  is  said  to  have  been  constructed  by  Murat.  A 
slightly  veiled  Venus,  with  an  old  woman  in  the  attitude  of  throwing 
a  mantle  over   the  goddess,  is  among  the  frescos  on  the  walls. 

In  one  of  the  rooms  miniatures  of  the  present  king  and  queen  are 
suspended  by  blue  ribbons  from  the  candelabra.  His  Majesty  is  a 
rosy-cheeked,  chubbed-faced  man,  with  small,  round,  light-blue  eyes. 
He  has  a  dull,  stupid  countenance,  which  from  all  we  could  learn  is 
expressive  of  his  character.  He  is  now  ill  at  Portici,  and  in  one  of 
his  sick  dreams,  he  fancied  the  giiost  of  his  father  appeared  to  him, 
and  accused  him  of  being  unfit  for  the  throne  !  He  was  so  frightened 
by  the  spectre,  as  to  call  out  to  the  servants  in  attendance.  Many  of 
his  subjects  believe,  that  there  was  much  truth  revealed  in  the  vision. 
The  present  factotum  of  the  government  is  the  Secretary  of  State, 
the  ChevaUer  de  Medici,  a  Sicilian  nobleman  of  moderate  talents,  and 
immense  fortune  accumulated  from  his  ofi^ice.  He  pretends  to  be  a 
fortieth  cousin  to  the  great  Medicean  family  of  Florence,  'i'hc  pre- 
tensions of  some  of  the  Neapolitan  nobility  are  ludicrous  enough.  It 
was  told  to  me  as  a  fact,  that  the  family  of  Gaeta  (anciently  Caieta) 
claim  origin  from  the  nurse  of  iEneas ! 


236        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

But  to  return  from  this  digression  :  the  paintings  in  the  palace  are 
not  numerous,  and  with  few  exceptions,  do  not  possess  extraordinary 
merit.  Among  the  most  prominent  are  two  historical  pieces,  the  as- 
sassination of  Cccsar  and  the  death  of  Virginia — by  Camuccini,  a 
Roman  artist,  who  is  now  perhaps  the  first  in  Italy.  Both  of  these 
are  classical  productions,  chaste  in  composition  and  colouring.  In 
the  former  the  figure  of  Cassar  is  admirable.  Brutus  is  not  so  well : 
his  attitude  is  bad,  having  a  sabre  raised  as  if  to  strike  rather  than  to 
stab.  Besides  these  historical  pictures,  there  are  some  others  worthy 
of  notice.  The  head  of  St.  Francis,  by  Carlo  Dolce,  is  in  his  finest 
style,  with  all  his  finish  and  softness  of  colouring.  His  Majesty  has  a 
lot  of  Venuses,  which  are  ugly  enough  ;  but  perhaps  it  is  best  they 
should  not  eclipse  his  royal  spouse,  who  has  the  coarseness  of  a 
washer-woman,  and  is  said  to  be  prodigal  of  her  amatory  favours, 
waiving  rank  !*  If  he  looks  at  these  gross  images  of  the  goddess, 
hanging  about  the  walls  of  his  palace,  before  going  to  bed,  no  won- 
der he  has  troubled  dreams.  Among  works  of  more  merit  are  por- 
traits of  the  late  king,  and  the  Dutchess  of  Orleans  with  a  child.  The 
drapery  of  the  latter  is  peculiarly  fine.  The  statues  are  few  in  num- 
ber, chiefly  of  bronze,  and  beneath  notice.  In  point  of  architecture, 
the  Palazzo  Reale  has  little  grandeur  and  no  beauty. 


*  I  would  not  calumniate  a  woman— not  even  a  queen — but  the  reports  of  her 
own  subjects  .iustify  more  than  I  hare  said. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         237 

LETTER  LXIV. 

XAPLES  CO>'TINUED — CAPO    DI    MONTE ALBERGO  De'  POVERI CniNESE 

COLLEGE — CATAC0M15S — CAMPO     SANTO THEATRES EXCURSION     TO 

CAPRI. 

May,  1826. 

To  the  Royal  Palace  at  Capo  di  Monte,  a  woody  eminence  two  miles 
to  the  north  of  the  town,  we  made  a  delightful  excursion  on  a  bright 
afternoon,  in  company  with  one  of  our  friends.  A  magnificent  road, 
the  Strada  Napoleon,  leads  to  the  hill ;  but  its  excellence  was  not 
very  highly  relished  after  receiving  the  information,  that  the  expense 
of  constructing  it  came  out  of  the  purses  of  American  merchants. 
The  proceeds  of  the  sales  of  vessels  to  the  amount  of  three  or  four 
millions  of  dollars,  treacherously  confiscated  by  Murat,  were  partly 
appropriated  to  this  purpose.  Although  the  king  and  his  court  feel 
jio  compunctions  in  enjoying  the  princely  revenue  ;  yet  they  refuse  to 
recognize  the  legitimacy  of  the  government,  under  whose  auspices  it 
was  opened,  and  upon  that  ground  withhold  indenmity  for  their  spolia- 
tions upon  our  commerce.  Will  such  contemptible  quibbles  satisfy 
the  straight-forward  policy  of  our  country  ?  But  I  leave  these  topics 
to  abler  pens. 

The  Palace  at  Capo  di  Monte  is  an  enormous  pile,  two  stories  high 
with  an  attic,  built  of  lava,  with  its  exterior  walls  stuccoed  and  painted 
in  imitation  of  brick.  It  has  no  pillars,  but  heavy  Doric  pilasters,  and 
is  entirely  destitute  of  architectural  ornament.  A  terrace  extends 
quite  round  the  building  at  the  height  of  tlie  first  story,  affording  a 
cliarming  walk,  as  well  as  a  wide  view  of  the  bay,  islands,  mountains, 
the  city  and  its  splendid  environs.  A  custode,  who  was  viceroy  for 
the  time  being,  took  us  the  usual  rounds.  The  fresco  ceilings  and 
painted  floors  arc  in  the  same  style  as  those  in  the  Palazzo  Reale.  A 
\'gw  pretty  marble  ornaments,  and  some  good  pictures  are  among  the 
decorations.  Of  the  latter,  the  school  of  Athens,  Socrates,  Alcibia- 
des,  and  Aspasia — Ulysses  and  the  Minstrel — and  the  seventy  wise 
men  collating  the  Septuagint,  are  the  most  celebrated.  The  most  in- 
teresting room  in  the  Palace  is  that  which  contains  the  presents  made 
to  the  royal  family  by  different  individuals.  Here  may  be  seen  furbe- 
lows and  trinkets  of  all  descriptions,  labelled  with  flattering  mottoes 
and  loyal  sonnets.  Beautiful  medallions  of  the  family  hang  round  the 
walls.     The  king  has  nine  children.     A  full  length  likeness  of  one  of 


'J38  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

the  daughters  makes  a  handsome  picture.     This   palace  is  not  yet 
finished. 

The  royal  domains  at  Capo  di  Monte  are  very  extensive,  and  laid 
out  in  the  style  of  Park  scenery  in  England.  They  constitute  the 
sole  charm  of  the  hill,  and  form  the  finest  retreat  in  the  vicinity  of  Na- 
ples. Passing  under  a  long  arch  of  evergreen,  impervious  to  the  sun 
at  noonday,  we  pursued  one  by-path  after  another  carpeted  with  white 
clover,  and  were  soon  lost  in  woods,  having  all  the  wildness  and  fresh- 
ness of  nature.  A  deep,  picturesque  dell  opens  to  the  north  in  the 
depth  of  which  are  seen  a  tew  scattered  huts  and  three  little  chapels 
buried  in  foliage.  The  scenery  is  in  the  highest  degree  romantic. 
Partridges  stalked  across  the  road,  and  rose  on  whizzing  wings.  A 
heedless  ramble  fairly  bewildered  us.  At  length  a  convent  bell,  in  the 
very  depth  of  the  forest,  tolled  for  vespers.  Crossing  an  old  bridge 
mantled  with  ivy,  we  directed  our  course  towards  the  sound,  and  pil- 
grim-like sued  for  admission  at  the  gate,  to  which  the  game-keeper 
conducted  us,  and  which  was  readily  thrown  open  by  an  old  monk. 
He  was  of  the  order  of  St.  Francis,  wearing  a  long  black  beard,  a 
coarse  woollen  robe,  and  sandals  clouted  upon  his  feet.  The  situa- 
tion of  the  small  convent  and  chapel  is  delightful,  entirely  secluded 
from  the  world.  An  inscription  stales,  that  it  was  erected  by  the  late 
king,  for  seven  brothers  of  the  order.  A  pretty  flower  garden,  all  in 
bloom,  spreads  in  front.  The  monk  showed  us  the  cloisters,  and  the 
relics  of  St.  Clement  under  the  altar  of  the  church.  After  listening  to 
the  chant  of  the  evening  hymn  by  the  few  inmates  of  this  delicious 
retreat,  we  bade  adieu  to  the  kind-hearted  brother  and  hastened  back, 
charmed  with  the  adventures  of  the  ramble. 
^  Beautiful  as  the  grounds  are  at  Capo  di  Monte,  it  is  said  the  king 
cannot  endure  the  retirement,  vastly  preferring  the  hot  lava  roads  of 
Portici  and  the  crowded  streets  of  Naples.  The  fact  is  not  perhaps 
remarkable,  as  he  has  neither  taste  nor  intellectual  resources  to  render 
seclusion  tolerable.  A  theatre  and  a  Corso  are  indispensable  requi- 
sites to  the  happiness  of  the  Itahans,  who  have  not  the  least  relish  for 
rural  quiet.  We  visited  a  charming  country  seat,  called  the  Eng- 
lish Villa,  in  the  vicinity  of  Capo  di  Monte,  and  enriched  with  the  same 
description  of  scenery.  Its  gardens,  fountains,  grottoes,  and  refresh- 
ing shades  are  now  absolutely  deserted  and  cannot  find  a  purchaser, 
while  the  wealthy  proprietor  probably  hears  fish  and  macaroni  cried 
every  morning  under  his  window,  in  some  dirty  part  of  Naples. 

With  the  exterior  of  the  Albergo  de'  Poveri  my  readers  are  already 
acquainted.     We  paid  a  visit  to  the  inside,  as  furnishing  a  specimen  of 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        239 

tlie  numerous  similar  institutions,  with  which  the  city,  much  to 
its  credit,  abounds.  There  is,  in  truth,  a  good  deal  of  active  be- 
nevolence among  the  Neapolitans,  and  never,  never  was  a  finer 
field  presented  tor  its  display.  The  French  gave  the  impulse  to 
nearly  all  the  recent  improvements  at  Naples,  as  well  as  in  other  parts 
of  Italy.  Murat  enlarged  the  Albergo  de'  Poveri,  (founded  by  Charles 
V.)  and  it  is  not  yet  entirely  completed.  Its  situation  is  eligible,  in  a 
healthy  part  of  the  town,  flanked  on  one  side  by  a  large  botanic  gar- 
den, with  wooded  hills  in  the  rear.  The  superintendent  conducted  us 
through  the  establishment,  which  is  almost  a  town  in  itself.  Its  pre- 
sent number  of  inmates  is  between  three  and  four  thousand,  consist- 
ing of  both  sexes  and  all  ages.  Some  of  them  are  sent  hither  by  the 
police,  as  to  a  sort  of  penitentiary  for  the  punishment  of  minor  of- 
fences ;  but  the  greater  proportion  solicit  admission,  such  as  orphans 
and  persons  having  no  means  of  support.  The  revenue  amounts  to 
^250,00' I  annually,  of  which,  the  sum  of  ^40,000  is  a  contribution 
from  the  government. 

The  whole  of  the  interior  is  neatly  painted  of  a  brick  colour,  and 
the  comfortable  beds  in  tlie  dormitories  are  of  the  same  complexion, 
manifesting  some  taste  as  well  as  cleanliness.  Paintings  decorate  the 
walls,  and  nine  hundred  of  the  paupers  sit  down  at  one  table,  to  enjoy 
coarse  but  wholesome  fare,  served  up  on  marble  slabs.  The  police 
appeared  to  me  judicious.  Corporal  punishment  is  seldom  or  never 
inflicted.  The  inmates  are  all  kept  busy.  They  commence  their 
daily  labours,  consisting  of  all  kinds  of  trades  and  manufactures,  at  5 
o'clock  in  the  morning.  At  1 1  they  take  breakfast,  and  dine  at  5  P.  M. 
One  third  of  the  profits  of  their  industry  goes  to  themselves,  and  the 
remainder  for  the  support  of  the  institution.  We  visited  the  school 
rooms,  where  the  children  are  instructed  in  reading,  writing,  arithme- 
tic, the  elements  of  the  Italian  language,  vocal  and  instrumental  mu- 
sic, and  dancing.  In  addition  to  these  branches,  females  are  taught 
plain  and  ornamental  needle  work.  Groups  of  the  pupils  were  obser- 
ved engaged  with  their  books  during  the  intermission,  in  conning  their 
tasks.  One  of  the  little  bronze-faced,  black-eyed  girls,  the  daughter, 
probably  of  a  lazzarone,  ran  to  the  garden  and  brought  each  of  us  a 
cluster  of  fresh  roses,  dripping  with  dew.  In  the  true  Italian  style,  a 
theatre  is  attached  to  the  institution,  where  the  paupers  on  gala  days 
enact  Punch  and  the  Beggar's  Opera  for  their  amusement.  They 
have  also  a  chapel,  and,  in  fact,  all  the  resources  of  a  town  within 
themselves.  The  residents  are  infinitely  better  oft',  than  a  majority  of 
the  inhabitants  of  the  city. 

Our  visit  to  the  Chinese  college,  for  the  education  of  missionaries, 
was  interesting.     It  stands  on  an  eminence  upon  the  southern  dechvi- 


240         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

ty  of  Capo  (li  Monte,  with  a  handsome  terrace  in  front  which  over- 
looks the  town.  The  halls  of  the  large  edifice  are  hung  with  Chinese 
portraits  of  men,  who  were  here  educated,  and  distinguished  them- 
selves as  missionaries.  We  were  introduced  to  the  head  of  the  institu- 
tion, who  is  a  man  of  learning,  and  freely  communicated  much  infor- 
mation respecting  the  origui,  history,  and  present  condition  of  the 
school,  which  is  now  apparently  on  the  decline.  Some  half  a  dozen 
oriental  youth,  consisting  of  Chinese  and  Greeks,  are  the  only  in- 
mates. They  were  playing  draughts  upon  the  terrace,  and  a  billiard 
table  in  one  of  the  rooms  seemed  an  odd  apparatus  for  educating  the 
young  apostles  of  Christianity.  The  reverend  father  did  not  appear  to 
consider  it  at  all  inappropriate.  One  of  the  Grecian  lads,  now  at  the 
age  of  16  or  17,  had  a  fine  face,  with  a  keen,  dark  eye,  and  all  the  fea- 
tures of  manly  beauty.  The  Chinese  boys  have  the  Asiatic  counte- 
nance ;  high  cheek  bones,  and  other  peculiarities  of  their  countrymen. 
They  are  all  clad  in  black  gowns,  girt  with  a  red  sash  about  the  waist. 
They  speak  their  native  languages  among  themselves,  but  are  taught 
Latin,  Greek,  and  Italian.  The  principal  of  the  college  stated  the 
number  of  christians  now  in  China  to  be  600,000.  He  also  mention- 
ed, that  the  English  East  India  Company  give  the  missionaries  their 
passages  back  and  forth,  amounting  to  a  hundred  guineas  each. 

At  the  base  of  the  same  hill,  we  "  left  the  warm  precincts  of  the 
cheerful  day,"  and  plunged  into  the  Neapolitan  Catacombs,  the  dark 
and  dreary  abode  of  the  dead.  Two  guides  led  the  way,  each  bearing 
a  dim  lamp,  which  ghmmered  upon  stacks  of  human  skulls  lining  the 
passages.  Some  of  them  were  so  fresh,  that  the  tendons  still  hung 
dangling  to  the  processes  of  the  bones,  as  our  cicerones  thrust  their 
fingers  into  the  sockets  of  the  eyes,  and  held  them  up  for  inspection^ 
remarking  with  the  hardened  indifference  of  Shakspeare's  grave-digger, 
that  such  a  one  must  have  belonged  to  a  stout  man,  and  such  a  one  to 
a  pretty  woman.  '•'•  Alas  poor  Yorick  !"  These  catacombs  are  much 
more  lofty  and  regular,  than  those  at  Rome.  They  are  two  stories 
high,  with  arched  roofs,  Gothic  pillars,  and  many  architectural  embel- 
lishments, hewn  from  the  solid  masses  of  tufo.  Two  broad  avenues 
form  the  principal  entrance,  and  lateral  ramifications  branch  off'  in  all 
directions.  One  of  the  subterranean  pathways  leads  to  a  village  at 
the  distance  of  sixteen  miles  :  another  to  Puteoli,  distant  six  or  eight 
miles.  Through  this,  an  old  saint  used  to  walk  and  preach  to  the  inha- 
bitants of  that  town,  till  he  was  at  last  caught  and  beheaded.  A  third 
great  avenue  was  begun  towards  Capua,  and  the  impressions  of  the 
implements  used  in  the  excavation  are  still  fresh,  just  as  the  work  was 
left,  when  the  intelligence  perhaps  arrived,  that  some  edict  against  the 


LETTERS  FROiVI  EUROPE.  241 

early  christians  had  been  revoked,  and  that  they  miglit  in  safety  revisit 
the  hght  of  heaven. 

The  cells  and  niches  in  the  walls  arc  similar  to  those  at  Rome, 
though  on  a  larger  scale.  On  the  right  of  the  principal  avenue,  and 
at  a  great  depth  from  the  entrance,  a  circular  shall  opens  upward  to  the 
summit  of  the  hill,  with  a  small  aperture  to  admit  the  air.  It  is  so 
high,  that  a  musket  ball  will  not  reach  the  top.  A  pillar  bearing  a 
Greek  inscription  stands  in  the  centre  of  the  rotunda.  These  caverns 
used  to  be  the  abode  of  banditti,  who  sallied  out  during  the  night, 
committed  murders,  and  threw  the  dead  bodies  with  the  plunder  down 
the  shaft.  Murat  hunted  them  out  of  their  dens,  and  broke  up  the 
gang.  The  second  story  appears  to  have  been  the  most  fashionable 
part  of  this  subterranean  world.  Here  stood  the  church,  and  here 
the  priesthood  had  their  residences,  which  are  as  perfect  as  if  they  had 
been  deserted  but  yesterday.  The  pulpit  is  at  a  considerable  elevation, 
and  cut  from  the  solid  rock.  Behind  the  altar,  rude  images  of  two  of 
the  Apostles  are  traced  upon  the  walls.  In  this  quarter,  an  orifice 
opens  laterally,  like  a  telescope  through  the  cliffs,  to  enable  the  former 
residents  to  take  a  peep  abroad,  and  see  when  their  days  of  misery 
dawned  and  closed.  Such  were  the  trials  that  awaited  the  primitive  pro- 
fessors of  Christianity. 

Burials  are  now  discontinued  in  the  Catacombs.  The  great  ceme- 
tery of  the  city  is  the  Campo  Santo,  a  mile  and  a  half  from  town,  the 
road  to  which,  though  once  to  be  trodden  by  all,  is  in  a  horrible  state, 
scarcely  passable  with  a  coach.  A  few  cypresses  are  scattered  along 
its  borders  ;  but  most  of  them  have  been  levelled  by  the  wind.  In  a 
city  where  so  many  lazzaroni  are  unemployed,  hearses  are  seldom  or 
never  used,  and  the  dead  are  borne  out  during  the  night,  in  rude 
troughs  on  the  shoulders  of  men,  without  the  least  ceremony.  The 
Campo  Santo  is  entirely  peculiar  in  its  construction.  In  an  area 
of  many  acres,  enclosed  by  a  high  wall,  pits  sixteen  feet  square  are 
sunk  to  the  depth  of  twenty-four  feet,  divided  from  each  other  by  stone 
walls  of  regular  masonry,  and  covered  at  top  with  large  flags  of 
lava.  These  are  3G5  in  number,  corresponding  with  the  days  in  the 
year.  One  of  them  is  opened,  in  rotation,  every  morning  at  dawn  for 
the  reception  of  the  dead  brought  out  during  the  night.  The  average 
number  collected  daily  is  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five — in  August  and 
September,  much  greater.  A  short  prayer  is  muttered  over  them  col- 
lectively, when  the  trap-door  flies  up  by  means  of  a  lever,  and  they  are 
tumbled  in  like  so  much  lumber,  without  coffm  or  shroud.  The  lid 
drops  and  is  hermetically  sealed  for  the  year,  that  the  effluvia  may  not 
escape.     One  of  the  pits  was  opened  for  our  examination.     Sights 

VOL.  n.  31 


242        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

were  disclosed  too  horrid  for  description,  and  from  which  the  feelings, 
recoil  with  disgust.  Swarms  of  cockroaches  issued  out  and  covered 
the  pavement.  An  Englishman  assured  me,  that  he  saw  in  one  of  the 
pits  a  black  dog,  which  had  leaped  in  after  the  body  of  his  master,  and 
that  to  no  purpose  he  offered  a  handsome  reward  to  the  sexton,  if 
he  would  rescue  the  faithful  animal. 

It  was  a  subject  of  sincere  satisfaction  to  learn,  that  none  of  our 
countrymen,  who  happen  to  die  at  Naples,  are  disposed  ol  in  this  man- 
ner, which  rpiulnrs  dfiath  *iniibly  hidRoiis  and  presents  forms,  shocking 
beyond  the  reach  of  imagination.  The  cemetery  for  strangers  is  in  a 
spacious  garden,  in  a  retired  part  of  the  city,  it  is  enclosed  by  high 
walls,  and  the  area,  still  under  cultivation,  is  finely  shaded  with  fig- 
trees  and  pomegranates.  The  graves  are  ranged  round  the  borders, 
and  the  ashes  of  the  dead  remain  undisturbed.  Their  tablets  of  white 
marble  are  placed  m  the  garden  wall.  Tombs  of  the  English  are  nu- 
merous ;  but  the  names  of  only  three  or  four  Americans,  all  from  the 
southern  states,  could  be  found.  Eustace,  an  English  clergyman  and 
author  of  "  the  Classical  tour,"  died  at  Naples  ;  but  as  he  was  a  Ca- 
tholic in  his  faith,  his  remains  were  suffered  to  be  interred  in  the  cha- 
pel of  Crocelle,  standing  on  the  quay  of  Chiatamone,  within  sound  of 
the  murmurs  of  that  bay,  which  he  so  much  loved,  and  which  not- 
withstanding all  his  faults,  his  eloquence  certainly  embeUished.  A 
stately  though  not  elegant  monument,  ornamented  with  the  image  of 
a  stork  devouring  a  serpent,  and  with  much  too  long  a  string  of  Latin 
verses,  has  been  erected  to  his  memory.  An  English  lady  was  paying 
the  tribute  of  her  respect  at  the  moment  of  our  visit ;  and  judging 
from  her  language,  she  was  a  warm  friend  of  the  deceased. 

We  went  one  day  on  a  Tom  Fool's  errand  :  there  are  few  travellers 
who  have  not  been  on  many  such.  One  of  the  guide-books  (edition 
of  1825,)  informed  us,  that  the  beautiful  statues  of  Venus  and  Adonis, 
from  the  chisel  of  Canova,  were  to  be  seen  at  the  Palazzo  Berio. 
Away  we  hurried,  and  presented  ourselves  at  the  gates  of  the  palace, 
when  it  was  ascertained  from  the  porter,  that  the  two  lovers  had  elo- 
ped, without  leaving  word  whither  they  had  gone.  They  had  been 
sold,  long,  long  ago — probably  to  buy  macaroni,  or  a  coach  for  the 
Corso.  So  we  returned  to  our  lodgings,  chanting  all  the  while,  like 
the  tattered  processions  encountered  on  our  way,  the  chorus  of  the 
Greek  elegy : 

'Ai,  'at  Tav  KuSspsiav  a-^rooXsro  xaXoj  Aouvt;  ; 
"  Alas  1  alas  I  Venus,  the  beautiful  Adonis  is  no  more  ."" 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         243 

Rather  in  the  way  of  sight-seeing,  than  with  any  high  anticipations 
of  amusement,  we  went  the  rounds  of  nearly  all  the  theatres  once, 
and  to  some  of  them,  several  times.  Tiierc  are  something  like  half  a 
dozen  at  Naples.  The  first,  said  to  be  the  largest  in  the  world,  is  the 
Opera  House,  or  Royal  Theatre,  of  St.  Carlo  ;  for  in  Italy  saints 
preside  over  all  sorts  of  establishments.  All  except  the  front  of  this 
enormous  building  was  burnt  down  in  the  year  1816  ;  but  it  has  since 
risen  with  renovated  and  augmented  splendour.  His  Majesty  contri- 
butes annually  ;^80,000  to  its  support,  which  he  had  much  better  ap- 
propriate to  the  purposes  of  feeding,  clothing,  and  educating  his 
wretched  subjects,  leaving  public  amusements  to  regulate  themselves. 
But  poverty  and  splendour  characterize  every  thing  in  this  city,  from 
the  monarch  himself  down  to  the  dirtiest  trull,  who  dances  barefooted 
througli  the  Toledo,  in  ribbons  and  rags,  with  golden  pendants  dan- 
gling at  her  ears. 

The  front  of  San  Carlo  borders  on  grandeur,  though  it  faces  a  nar- 
row street,  and  is  so  crowded  by  other  buildings,  as  not  to  appear  to 
much  advantage.  Among  its  decorations  are  two  very  appropriate 
pieces  of  bas-rebef,  expressive  of  the  powers  of  music  : — the  one  re- 
presents Amphion  giving  motion  to  animate  and  inanimate  matter,  by 
the  sound  of  his  lyre — and  the  other,  Orpheus  charming  Euridice  back 
to  earth  from  the  regions  of  Tartarus.  The  entrance,  corridors,  and 
other  appendages  of  the  theatre  are  upon  a  large  scale,  and  in  good 
style.  But  the  interior  transcends  all  the  rest  in  magnificence.  Six 
ranges  of  boxes,  with  something  like  thirty  in  each  tier,  making  nearly 
two  hundred  in  all,  rise  in  a  semicircular  form,  and  are  covered  with 
gilt  bas-relief,  cornucopia?,  and  other  embellishments  of  the  most  splen- 
did descriptions.  The  ceiling  is  enriched  with  beautiful  frescos,  on  a 
blue  field.  Directly  in  front  of  tlie  stage,  and  occupying  two  tiers  of 
boxes,  is  the  seat  appropriated  to  the  king  and  royal  family.  It  far 
surpasses  in  splendour  any  throne  beyond  the  Alps,  putting  the  Bruns- 
wicks  and  Bourbons  to  the  blush  !  Its  curtains  are  of  crimson  vel- 
vet, embossed  with  gold,  with  a  colossul  crown  for  a  canopy,  glittering 
with  a  thousand  gems. 

The  parterre  or  pit  alone  is  sufliciently  spacious  to  accommodate 
twelve  or  fifteen  hundred  spectators,  and  the  orchestra  is  on  a  scale 
proportioned  to  the  other  dimensions.  On  each  side  of  the  stage  rise 
two  immense  Corinthian  pillars,  dazzling  the  eye  with  their  gildings. 
The  drop  curtain  is  of  green  silk,  richly  embossed.  Its  lower  border 
is  an  imitation  of  mosaic,  exhibiting  Venus  entiironed — a  Grecian 
Temple — and  a  procession  of  Cupids  driving  their  chariots,  to  which 
are  yoked  successively  goats,   serpents,  swans,  doves,  tortoises,  and 


244         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

hares,  probably  intended  to  illustrate  the  universal  dominion  of  Love. 
The  stage  itself  opens  a  vista  of  such  length,  as  to  have  the  desired  ef- 
fect in  actually  deceiving  the  eye,  and  producing  all  the  enchantment 
of  real  scenery.  Within  such  limits  almost  any  distance,  and  any  ob- 
ject may  be  represented.  The  theatre  is  hghted  in  such  a  manner,  as 
to  set  off  its  brilhant  decorations  with  the  greatest  possible  effect.  A 
superb  chandelier,  girt  with  numerous  circles  of  lamps,  is  suspended 
from  the  centre  of  the  ceihng,  and  wax  candles  hung  round  the  boxes 
add  to  the  flood  of  light.  We  witnessed  the  grand  illumination  on  the 
King's  birth-day,  when  the  effulgence  of  San  Carlo,  with  all  its  gor- 
geous embellishments,  and  with  its  boxes  filled  with  an  audience  in 
full  dresses,  became  almost  insupportable  to  the  eye.  No  people  un- 
derstand getting  up  a  show  in  better  style  than  the  Italians,  whether 
it  be  religious  or  theatrical.  Indeed  there  is  little  difference  between 
the  two,  and  they  devote  half  their  Hves  to  spectacles  of  some  sort. 

But  the  curtafii  rises,  and  let  us  look  at  a  regiment  of  actors  and 
actresses  pouring  in,  squadron  after  squadron,  in  all  the  richness  of  ori- 
ental costumes.  Plumes  and  helmets,  swords  and  scimitars,  thrones 
and  tiaras  glittering  with  the  gold  and  purple  of  the  East,  burst  suddenly 
upon  the  spectator  ;  and  amidst  rounds  of  applause,  the  enchantment 
of  Itahan  music,  and  the  warblings  of  Italian  voices,  he  finds  little  time 
for  reflection,  or  for  attending  at  all  to  the  merits  of  the  spectacle.  His 
eye  soon  exhausts  the  glare  of  tinsel  decorations  ;  his  ear  soon  be- 
comes familiar  with  the  measured  links  of  harmony  ;  and  the  very 
sweetness  of  the  repast  begins  to  pall  upon  the  senses.  Then  it  is  for 
the  first  time,  that  the  mindlooks  for  something  more  substantial,  some 
animating  principle,  to  keep  the  attention  awake.  But  it  looks  in 
vain.  The  reason  why  the  Italians  arc  pleased  with  the  Opera  seems 
to  be,  that  they  never  arrive  at  this  stage  of  reflection  in  their  amuse- 
ments. They  neither  ask  nor  wish  any  thing  intellectual  or  literary  in 
a  drama — nothing  beyond  the  gratification  of  the  senses — nothing  that 
requires  thought,  or  that  may  disturb  the  conversation  of  the  boxes. 

On  the  first  night  of  our  attendance  at  San  Carlo,  the  Opera  was 
Semiramide,in  which  the  General  sings  to  his  soldiers,  and  the  Princess 
sines  in  her  tears  !  SucIj  absurdities  soon  produce  indifference,  and 
indifference,  stupor.  The  trumpet  voice  of  La  Blache — the  lumber- 
ing in  of  some  new  chariot — the  tramp  of  a  tower-bearing  elephant — 
or  the  thunders  of  applause  which  greeted  the  heroine  of  the  Cyprian 
band,  who  could  stand  longest  on  one  leg  and  show  most  of  the  other, 
occasionally  gave  the  attention  a  jog,  and  kept  us  from  the  impolite- 
ness of  nodding  in  the  presence  of  so  much  nobility  and  fashion.  On 
the  second  night,  we  went  merely  to  witness  the  illumination  and  hear 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        245 

Ihc  music,  which  is  always  worth  two  carlins.  But  to  a  stranger,  the 
Opera  House,  after  the  novelty  of  the  show  has  vanished,  is  the  most 
stupid  of  all  places.  With  the  Italians,  who  go  to  the  theatre,  as  they 
would  go  to  a  party  to  meet  their  friends  and  hold  conversaziones,  the 
case  is  very  difl'erent.  Their  boxes  are  their  houses,  where  they  have 
all  the  conveniences  of  eating,  drinking,  and  receiving  company.  The 
play  is  no  more  than  a  mere  accompaniment  of  the  social  enjoyments 
of  the  evening. 

To  three  of  the  other  theatres,  appropriated  partly  to  operas  and  partly 
to  plays,  we  went  once  ;  and  to  a  fourth,  the  San  Carlino,  (as  much  a 
diminutive  in  size  as  it  is  in  name,  in  comparison  with  San  Carlo,) 
several  visits  were  paid.  It  is  so  popular  and  so  small,  as  to  be  open- 
ed twice  a  day  to  accommodate  the  crowd,  who  throng  its  portals. 
Who  but  the  Italians  would  think  of  exposing  painted  faces  and  tinsel 
dresses  to  the  glare  of  sunshine,  or  look  for  an  audience  in  the  hours  of 
business  ?  But  they  must  be  engaged  in  spectacles  of  some  kind, 
from  highest  to  lowest — from  the  archbishop  who  licjuifies  the  blood  of 
St.  Gennaro  in  the  Cathedral,  or  burns  incense  on  the  tawdry  altars 
of  the  Toledo,  down  to  the  vilest  harlequin  that  gathers  a  mob  and 
caresses  his  living  snakes,*  on  the  Piazza  del  Castello.  San  Carlino 
is  confessedly  devoted  to  what  all  the  other  theatres  are  in  reality — 
buffoonery !  There  is  a  leading  character  called  Pulcinella,  (corres- 
ponding to  Punch  among  puppets,)  who  performs  his  part  in  the  Nea- 
politan dialect,  the  Yorkshire  or  Gascon  of  Italy,  and  is  considered  the 
representative  of  the  nation.  His  wit  was  in  a  great  measure  lost  up- 
on us,  from  an  imperfect  knowledge  of  his  jargon  ;  but  the  pantomime 
and  the  intelligible  [)arts  were  sufficient  to  show  the  piece  to  be  of  the 
lowest  and  broadest  humour.  Several  noblemen,  an  Adnnral  with 
three  stars  blazing  upon  his  breast,  and  some  of  the  priesthood,  were 
among  the  audience.  Every  body  rallies  round  Punch  ;  and  if  the 
standard  of  General  Pepe,  (Phoibus,  what  a  name  !)  had  enkindled 
half  the  enthusiasm,  Naples  might  not  now  have  been  a  degraded  pro- 
vince of  Austria,  though  the  people  apparently  possess  too  little  ener- 
gy of  character,  and  too  much  tameness  of  spirit  ever  to  be  free. 

'i'hus  have  I  fiaishcd  the  rounds  of  the  most  prominent  features, 
which  an.  overgrown,  but  a  comj)aratively  uninteresting  city  presents. 


*  I  have  frequently  seen  these  showmen  coil  full-grown  serpents  about  their 
naked  necks,  put  them  into  their  bosoms,  and  play  with  their  forked  tongues — all, 
too,  "  free  gratis  for  nothing,"  as  the  exliibition  is  in  the  street!?.  One  of  them  got 
vp  a  fight  between  two  snakes  and  a  lizanl. 


246         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

Nearly  half  of  our  visit  of  three  weeks  to  Naples  was  occupied  in  ex- 
cursions to  the  environs,  if  environs  may  be  said  to  extend  to  a  distance 
of  fifty  miles  and  upwards.  The  first  of  these  was  an  aquatic  expedi- 
tion to  the  Island  of  Capri,  in  the  steam-boat  Royal  Ferdinand,  one 
of  the  largest  and  finest  I  have  seen  in  Europe.  She  is  owned  and 
manned  by  Scotchmen,  who  have  made  money  by  the  enterprise.  Her 
regular  trips  are  from  Naples  to  Palermo  and  Messina,  in  Sicily, 
whither  she  goes  every  week.  Had  not'  the  season  been  so  far  ad- 
vanced as  to  lead  us  to  look  towards  the  north,  we  should  have  availed 
ourselves  of  tiiis  opportunity  for  visiting  old  Trinacria.  But  one  would 
not  care  to  go,  without  climbing  to  the  top  of  Etna,  rambling  over  the 
ruins  of  Syracuse,  and  making  a  general ^our  through  the  Island,  which 
would  occupy  a  month  or  six  weeks,  a  longer  term  than  our  arrange- 
ments would  permit. 

The  trip  of  the  Ferdinand  was  an  extra,  on  a  party  of  pleasure,  and  the 
passengers,  amounting  to  something  more  than  a  hundred  in  number, 
were  a  motley  assemblage  of  both  sexes  and  all  ages,  composed  chiefly 
of  travellers  from  every  nation  of  Europe,  collecting  in  separate  groupes 
and  jabbering  different  languages.  Two  of  our  American  friends,  the 
Charge  des  Affaires,  and  our  old  messmate,  the  Surgeon  in  the  N^vy, 
joined  us  in  the  excursion.  At  the  hour  of  embarkation,  between  9 
and  10  o'clock  in  the  morning,  the  weather  was  pleasant,  afibrding  a 
charming  view  of  the  city  and  its  environs,  from  the  cleft  and  burning 
top  of  Vesuvius,  to  the  yet  snowcapt  Apennines  in  the  distance.  But 
the  reign  of  pleasure  was  shortlived.  Rapidly  as  the  boat  receded 
from  the  shore,  she  had  scarcely  reached  the  middle  of  the  Bay,  when 
the  blue  skies  of  Campania  suddenly  vanished,  and  the  blowing  of  the 
Sirocco,  tumbled  in  the  sea  in  tremendous  swells  from  the  south. 
Placid  and  tranquil  as  is  the  general  character  of  these  waters,  they 
are  often  lashed  into  fury  by  squalls,  to  which  the  whole  coast  of  Italy 
is  very  liable.  From  the  windows  of  my  apartment,  I  have  frequently 
watched  the  progress  of  the  storm,  accompanied  sometimes  by  thunder 
and  lightning.  Fleets  of  little  boats,  hovering  like  sea-birds  to  the 
land,  are  generally  the  precursors  ;  for  the  fishermen,  grown  familiar 
with  the  climate,  can  judge  from  a  speck  in  the  horizon,  when  a  tem- 
pest impends.  With  all  their  caution,  however,  they  have  occasional- 
ly been  observed  to  be  too  tardy,  and  their  white  sails  to  disappear  in- 
stantly in  the  dense  verge  of  the  storm.  Then  the  waves,  crested  with 
foam,  rapidly  extend  their  circles  to  the  inmost  recesses  of  the  Bay.  I 
have  seen  them  run  so  high,  that  the  British  ship-of-war  Revenge,  lying 
at  anchor  in  the  Roads,  danced  and  rocked  like  a  skiff. 

The  Royal  Ferdinand  on  the  present  occasion,  though  a  staunch 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         247 

boat,  rolled  merrily,  and  the  consequence  was  that  more  than  half  of 
the  hundred  passengers  soon  strewed  the  deck.  They  fell  like  soldiers 
on  the  held  ol"  battle,  in  the  places  where  they  stood,  sometimes  five 
or  six  at  a  lurch.  Russians,  Austrians,  Germans,  Italians,  French, 
and  English  all  yielded  to  the  impulses  of  sympathy  ;  for  the  barriers 
of  national  prejudice  liad  been  ellectually  broken  down  by  the  motion 
of  the  ship.  Some  of  the  party  had  already  taken  so  nmch  lachryma- 
christi,  that  they  were  in  a  slate  of  happy  ignorance,  whether  their 
sickness  proceeded  from  the  influence  of  the  bottle  or  the  sea.  A 
prettv  Italian  woman  was  just  ill  enough  to  cause  a  portion  of  the 
blood  to  retreat  from  her  cheek,  and  render  her  face  more  interesting. 
All  the  well  gentlemen  on  board  who  had  smelling-bottles,  seized  this 
opportunity  to  tender  their  services.  She  appeared  to  retain  her  senses, 
and  manilested  more  gratitude  than  did  her  husband,  who  stood  by  in 
amazement  at  the  formidable  array  of  whiskers  and  mustaches  which 
encircled  her.  A  tall  blue-eyed  German  girl,  taking  a  hint  from  the  oc- 
casion, fell  sick  about  the  same  time  ;  but  Priests  and  Levites  passed 
by  on  either  hand.     Such  are  the  advantages  of  personal  beauty. 

As  soon  as  the  boat  reached  the  lee  of  Capri,  the  water  became 
comparatively  tranquil,  though  the  storm  had  by  no  means  abated. 
We  were  now  in  sight  of  the  rocks  of  the  Sirens,  off  the  capes  of  Sor- 
rento ;  but  in  such  a  day  at  least,  the  warbling  trio  had  retired  to  their 
ocean  caves,  and  the  only  melody  which  greeted  our  ears,  was  the 
whistling  of  the  Sirocco  and  the  beating  of  the  surge  upon  the  naked 
crags.  Coming  to  anchor  close  to  the  shore,  and  about  midway  the 
Island,  we  had  a  tolerable  view  of  this  insulated  ridge  of  tu to,  the  posi- 
tion of  which  has  already  been  described.  Its  length  from  east  to 
west  is  three  miles,  and  its  breadth  less  than  one,  giving  a  circumfe- 
rence of  nine  miles.  It  is  extremely  broken,  and  exhibits  the  strongest 
evidences  of  being  a  ruin.  Its  greatest  height  above  the  level  of  the 
Bay  may  be  something  like  twelve  or  fifteen  hundred  feet.  There  are 
two  tremendous  blull's — one  near  the  centre,  up  which  steps  have  been 
«cut  in  the  rock  to  the  village  of  Anacapri  on  the  summit ;  and  the 
other  terminating  in  impending  clifTs,  down  which  Tiberius  Caesar 
used  to  order  criminals  to  be  thrown,  to  amuse  his  sullen  solitude. 

The  apex  of  the  island  is  crowned  with  ruins.  Palaces  were  here 
commenced  by  Augustus,  and  embellished  by  his  successor,  Tiberius, 
at  an  immense  expense.  The  latter  found  in  this  solitary  retreat  an 
abode  suited  to  his  gloomy  and  suspicious  tyranny.  lie  was  killed 
upon  the  very  rocks,  whence  hundreds  had  been  hurled  into  the  sea 
for  his  recreation.  After  his  death,  the  palaces  were  sufiered  to  fall 
into  decay.     Some  traces  of  them  are  yet  discoverable.     The  Island 


248        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

is  at  present  covered  with  rich  verdure,  which  contrasts  beautifully 
with  the  white  cliffs.  Nearly  in  its  centre,  the  little  village  of  Capri 
is  seated  far  up  the  acclivity,  many  hundreds  of  feet  above  the  sea.  It 
is  approached  by  a  flight  of  steps,  winding  up  from  the  landing,  and 
something  more  than  a  mile  in  extent — one  of  the  most  fatiguing 
walks  I  have  ever  taken.  As  the  rain  poured  in  torrents,  and  there 
is  no  hotel  in  the  town,  we  took  shelter  in  the  Cathedral,  the  princi- 
pal ornaments  of  which  were  images  of  the  Virgin  and  Child,  tricked 
out  with  a  new  suit  of  finery,  each  wearing  a  tinsel  crown  upon  curled 
and  frizzled  locks.  The  storm  continued  with  such  severity,  that  it 
became  wholly  impracticable  to  visit  the  ruins  of  the  imperial  palace, 
and  a  few  other  antiquities  scattered  over  the  Island.  One  of  our 
friends  found  an  asylum  in  a  Convent,  and  took  lodgings  for  the  night, 
determining  to  wait  for  a  fair  day.  The  rest  of  us,  who,  like  the 
King  of  Spain  with  his  twenty  thousand  men,  "  marched  up  the  hill 
and  then — marched  down  again,"  embarked  at  4  o'clock,  and  scud- 
ded back  before  the  wind  to  Naples,  happy  to  escape  from  scenes  of 
intoxication,  profanity,  and  rudeness  of  behaviour  among  a  portion  of 
the  passengers. 


LETTERS  FROIM  EUROPE.         249 

LETTEK  LXV. 

EXCURSION  TO    BALE PAUSILYl'O LAKK    ACJNANO GROTTO    DKL    CANE 

GULF     OF    BAI.i: POZZUOLI ANCIKNT    TORT — BATHS     OF     NERO 

LUCRINE  LAKE LAKE  OF    AVERNUS GROTTO  OF    THE    SIBYL CUM.'E 

ACHERON RUINS      OF     BALE ELYSIAN      FIELDS CAPE     MISENO 

VILLA  OF  CICERO SOLFATARA. 

Maij,  1826. 

One  day  was  actively  and  delightfully  employed  in  an  excursion  to 
Baia',  some  seven  or  eight  miles  west  of  Naples.  A  friend  who  had 
recently  been  over  the  whole  ground,  was  so  kind  as  to  accompany  us, 
afionling  at  once  the  pleasure  of  his  society  and  the  benefit  of  his  ac- 
(piaintance  with  all  the  localities.  As  the  objects  to  be  seen  in  this 
direction  are  both  numerous  and  interesting,  we  left  Naples  at  an  early 
hour  in  the  morning,  and  were  favoured  with  one  of  the  brightest  days, 
that  had  been  found  in  this  soft  and  delicious  climate.  The  road  we 
pursued,  leads  through  the  faubourg  of  the  city  as  far  as  the  Tomb  of 
Virgil,  and  thence  pierces  the  hill  of  Pausilypo,*  by  an  arch,  or  grotto, 
as  it  is  called  of  the  same  name.  This  arch  resembles  the  tunnels  of 
canals,  or  the  galleries  on  the  road  between  Nice  and  Genoa.  It  is 
forty  or  fifty  feet  in  height,  and  barely  wide  enough  for  two  carriages 
abreast,  hewn  out  of  a  solid  ridge  of  tufo,  and  paved  with  blocks  of 
lava.  Two  small  apertures  open  diagonally  through  the  roof,  serving 
the  double  purpose  of  ventilation  and  of  admitting  a  feeble  liglit.  In 
neither  respect,  however,  are  they  of  much  importance,  being  of  less 
size  than  llerschel's  telescope,  and  half  closed  at  top  by  the  foliage  of 
the  hill.  They  were  not  observed  at  all  in  our  first  ride  through  the 
grotto,  whicli  in  tiie  central  parts  has  more  than  the  dimness  of  twi- 
light. A  lamp  sus|)ended  before  the  image  of  the  Virgin,  is  kept 
constantly  burning.  'I'lie  deafening  noise  of  coaches,  and  the  ob- 
scure glimpses  of  pedestrians,  gliding  like  ghosts  through  the  shades, 
render  the  way  gloomy,  and  even  terrific,  to  tiie  foot  passenger,  who 
is  not  protected  from  carriages  by  side-walks.     In  the  month  of  Oc- 


*  Tliis  appellation  is  derived  from  two  Greek  words  Qtmj-ic  and  kutth)  signify- 
ing the  cessation  of  sorrmv,  classically  given  to  the  hill  by  the  scholars  of  tl)e  Au- 
gustan age,  on  account  of  the  charm  of  its  scenery,  and  its  exhilarating  c-flccts  on 
the  mind.  The  word  is  written  Posilipo,  Posilippo,  and  in  half  a  dozfn  other 
different  ways.  As  tlie  orthography  seems  to  be  wholly  unsettled,  1  take  the  li- 
berty of  following  the  analogies  of  the  Greek  and  English  languages. 
VOL.  n.  32 


250         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

tober,  the  setting  sun  shoots  his  horizontal  beams  through  the  whole 
length  of  the  arch,  and  illumines  a  house  at  the  eastern  end.  Many 
conjectures  have  been  offered  as  to  the  origin  and  object  of  this  work. 
Its  antiquity  is  undoubted,  as  it  is  mentioned  by  Roman  writers  soon 
after  the  Augustan  age.  But  in  a  region  where  excavations  are  so 
easy  and  so  numerous,  the  subject  appears  unworthy  of  the  profound 
speculations,  with  which  antiquaries  have  racked  their  brains.  A  lux- 
urious Roman  might  open  the  road  in  a  single  season,  to  save  the  trou- 
ble of  climbing  the  hill  on  his  way  to  Baiae.  Ten  thousand  modern 
works  surpass  it  in  expense  and  labour. 

The  ridge  of  Pausilypo  extends  out  in  a  southern  direction  to  the 
distance  of  three  or  four  miles,  terminating  in  high  perpendicular  cliffs, 
and  with  the  little  island  of  Nisida,  a  few  rods  from  the  extremity, 
forming  one  of  the  capes  of  the  basin  of  Baiae.  A  new  road  yet  in  an 
unfinished  state,  has  been  opened  along  the  eastern  side  of  the  pro- 
montory, crossing  it  by  a  deep  cut,  and  leading  to  Pozzuoli  by  another 
route.  It  has  been  constructed  at  an  immense  expense,  and  with  the 
usual  tardiness  of  similar  works  in  Italy.  In  an  excursion  on  a  subse- 
quent day  to  the  end  of  the  cape,  three  or  four  hundred  Neapolitans 
were  seen  engaged  in  digging  through  the  hill,  carrying  away  the  sand 
in  baskets  poised  upon  their  heads.  Haifa  dozen  of  the  New- York 
canal  contractors,  with  their  teams  and  scrapers,  would  perform  five 
times  the  effective  labour  of  this  beggarly  multitude.  Although  the 
hill  of  Pausilypo  aflbrds  a  charming  ride,  commanding  a  full  view  of 
the  bay  of  Naples,  it  presents  few  objects  of  interest.  Its  heights  were 
once  covered  with  the  villa  of  Pollio,  the  friend  of  Virgil  ;  and  it  is 
said  the  poet  himself  here  had  a  house.  But  the  ruins  of  both  have 
vanished.  The  residence  of  Sannazaro  is  shown  on  the  right  of  the 
new  road,  and  on  the  let\  are  a  Chinese  temple,  and  the  lodge  of  Lady 
Craven,  who  has  made  so  much  noise  in  Europe.  She  was  banished 
from  the  Neapolitan  court,  under  an  accusation  of  being  accessory  to 
the  amours  of  the  queen.  Her  mansion,  standing  near  the  water,  and 
surrounded  with  gardens,  exhibits  a  good  deal  of  taste. 

So  much  for  a  digression  on  one  side  of  the  grotto  of  Pausilypo  : — 
and  it  may  be  as  well  to  mention  here  as  elsewhere,  that  on  the  other 
hand,  a  path  leads  through  a  gorge  in  the  hills  to  the  celebrated  Grotto 
del  Cane,  seated  within  a  few  yards  of  the  little  Lake  of  Agnano,  two 
miles  from  Naples.  An  excursion  to  this  place  hardly  repaid  us  for 
the  trouble.  The  old  woman  who  keeps  the  keys  of  the  cave,  was  so 
extravagant  in  her  charges  for  exhibiting  the  usual  experiment  upon 
the  dog,  and  poor  Tray  was  dragged  up  to  the  door  with  so  much  re- 
luctance, that  we  refused  to  pay  the  fee  for  a  popular  show,  which  ex- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  ^ol 

oites  little  wonder  or  curiosity,  since  the  effects  of  the  sfases  npon  ani- 
mal life  are  so  well  known.  Every  laboratory  in  our  country  can  now 
furnish  illustrations  of  the  principle,  which  a  century  ago,  before  pneu- 
matics became  a  branch  of  science,  led  Addison  and  other  travellers 
to  a  round  of  experiments,  now  repeated  by  an  ignorant,  crusty  hag. 
The  friend  who  was  with  us  tried  on  a  former  occasion  a  percussion 
pistol,  immersed  in  the  air,  which  is  said  to  prevent  the  ignition  of 
gunpowder.  Contrary  to  his  expectation,  the  pistol  went  off,  and  the 
report  frightened  the  old  woman  prodigiously,  lest  the  neighbourhood 
should  be  alarmed,  and  the  party  suspected  of  poaching  upon  the 
king's  hunting-grounds.  Lake  Agnano  is  a  small,  muddy,  reedy  pool, 
encircled  by  a  high  brim  of  hills.  It  is  supposed  by  some  to  have  once 
been  the  crater  of  a  volcano,  and  by  others,  that  it  was  artificially 
scooped  out  by  LucuUus  for  a  fish-pond.  At  present  it  forms  a  part 
of  the  royal  demesnes.  In  walking  along  the  shore,  we  heard  wild 
ducks  squalling  among  the  rushes,  and  saw  a  group  of  females,  busy  in 
stringing  together  the  hind  legs  of  frogs  for  the  Neapolitan  market ! 

A  third  road,  and  the  one  pursued  by  us  in  our  excursion  to  Baia?, 
leads  through  the  beautiful  vale  of  Bagnoli,  opening  from  the  grotto  of 
Pausilypo  to  the  sea,  and  smiling  with  tillage  and  vineyards.  Half  an 
hour's  ride  brought  us  to  the  island  of  Nisida,*  situated  at  the  eastern 
extremity  of  the  Gulf  opening  between  the  promontory  of  Pausilypo, 
and  cape  Miseno.  a  distance  of  three  or  four  miles,  and  setting  up  per- 
haps five  miles  inland.  It  is  surrounded  on  all  sides  save  one  by  heights 
of  moderate  elevation,  increasing  in  altitude  towards  the  north-east. 
The  borders  of  this  gulf,  which  in  common  parlance  go  by  the  name 
of  Baia3,  but  which  more  properly  are  denominated  the  Phlegraean 
Fields,  exhibit  in  their  whole  extent  a  mass  both  of  physical  and  moral 
ruins.  Volcanos,  earthquakes,  and  the  irruptions  of  the  sea  have  shat- 
tered the  coast  into  fragments,  changed  lakes  into  mountains,  and 
overwhelmed  toy'-s  in  the  general  war  of  the  elements.  In  the  Augus- 
tan age,  this  was  emphatically  the  centre  of  Roman  taste  and  luxury. 
Besides  the  large  seaport  of  Puteoli,  one  of  the  most  extensive  marts 
in  the  world  ;  Misenus,  the  rendezvous  of  imperial  fleets  ;  Bauli  and 
Baiae,  crowded  with  the  seals  of  the  nobility  ;  Cuma:,  the  oldest  and 
one  of  the  most  populous  cities  in  Italy,  with  many  other  smaller  towns 
and  villas,  were  all  embraced  within  a  circuit  of  a  few  miles,  exhibiting 
an  assemblage  of  more  wealth  and  splendour,  than  any  other  part  of 
the  empire  in  the  same  compass  could  boast. 


■*  Tiiis  island  is  crowned  with  the  ruins  of  Poinpey's  villa,   and  the  Lazarett' 
=  fan'ls  under  the  cli/T;. 


252         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

Of  these  places,  some  are  so  entirely  obliterated,  that  even  their  sites 
cannot  be  satisfactorily  ascertained  ;  and  others  present  the  most  me- 
lancholy traces  of  former  magnificence.  The  utter  impossibility  of 
identifying  the  ruins,  after  so  many  convulsions,  destroys  in  some  de- 
gree the  pleasure  of  the  traveller.  It  may  be  remarked,  too,  in  gene-  ■ 
ral  terms,  that  the  sumptuous  abodes  of  luxury,  the  haunts  of  dissipa- 
tion and  vice,  presented  nothing  originally  of  intense  interest  ;  and  one 
feels  a  sort  of  indifference,  whether  he  stumbles  upon  a  bath  or  a  fish- 
pond, a  temple  or  the  tomb,  of  some  voluptuous  nobleman.  The  po- 
pulation of  this  region  has  wasted  away  with  its  buried  and  dilapida- 
ted towns,  till  it  is  at  length  reduced  to  a  handful  of  squalid  inhabit- 
ants, as  ghastly  as  any  of  the  spectres  which  Charon  ever  ferried  over 
the  Styx.  Puteoli  (now  Pozzuoli)  is  the  only  village  left  upon  the 
bay,  and  even  that  is  but  the  shadow  of  a  shade  compared  with  its 
former  extent  and  importance.  It  stands  upon  a  point  projecting 
into  the  gulf  of  Puteolano,  and  forming  a  natural  harbour. 

On  arriving  at  this  ruinous  old  town,  we  immediately  took  a  row- 
boat,  and  embarked  for  the  hot  baths  of  Nero  across  the  bay,  at  the 
distance  of  two  or  three  miles.  Peter,  who  acted  in  the  double  capa- 
city of  admiral  and  cicerone,  had  been  for  several  years  on  board  of  a 
British  man-of-war,  and  had  visited  most  of  the  great  ports  of  England  : 

— Multum  ille  et  terris  jactatus  et  alto. 
"  On  stormy  seas,  unnumbei'd  toils  he  bore."* 

He  still  kept  up  the  style  of  the  glazed  hat,  blue  jacket,  and  white 
trowsers,  although  he  had  finished  his  active  career  of  naval  services, 
and  returned  to  seek  repose  in  his  native  village.  As  much  philoso- 
phy was  wrapped  up  in  histarpawling  dress,  as  probably  ever  lurked  be- 
neath the  stole  and  toga  in  the  same  retreat,  and  he  discoursed  sagely 
upon  the  influence  of  climate  and  luxury,  in  hastening  the  dechne  and 
fall  of  empires,  illustrating  his  lessons  by  pointing  to  the  ruins,  which 
peeped  above  the  waves,  and  on  either  side  strewed  the  shores.  To 
the  left,  the  remains  of  the  Mole,  constructed  for  the  convenience  of 
lading  and  unlading  ships,  extend  into  the  harbour.  Thirteen  out  of 
twent3'-five  arches  are  yet  standing,  resembliqg  those  of  an  old  bridge. 
It  was  repaired  for  the  last  time  by  Antoninus  Pius,  and  has  since  been 
suffered  to  sink  gradually  into  decay.  From  the  extremity  of  the  Mole, 
the  Emperor  Caligula  extended  a  bridge  of  boats  to  Baiae,  a  distance 


^  I  promised  Peter  when  we  parted,  that  I  would  sing  his  praises  ;  and  the  pledge 
has  now  been  redeemed-. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  25* 

of  about  four  thousand  feet.  It  was  covered  with  sand,  like  an  ordi- 
nary road  ;  and  the  Emperor  rode  across  it  in  triumph,  with  his  brow 
twined  with  wreaths,  in  anticipation  of  his  future  victories !  This 
achievement  was  in  imitation,  or  more  properly  in  rivalry  of  Xerxes, 
in  crossing  the  Hellespont. 

On  the  right  of  the  port,  rises  Monte  Barbaro,  (anciently  Mount 
Gaurus,)  covered  with  vineyards  and  crowned  with  one  or  two  old 
buildings.  Farther  to  the  west  and  nearer  the  shore  is  a  hill  several 
hundred  feet  in  height,  called  Monte  Nuovo,  which  rose  from  the  Lu- 
crine  Lake  and  the  Julian  Port,  during  the  shock  of  an  earthquake  iu 
the  16th  century.  It  is  composed  entirely  of  lava,  cinders,  and  ashes, 
which  were  vomited  forth  amidst  flames  from  the  subterranean  re- 
gions. The  surface  is  of  a  reddish  complexion,  thinly  shaded  with  a 
coat  of  dwarfish  broom. 

Landing  at  a  point  where  the  ruins  of  what  is  called  the  palace  of 
Julius  CfTsar  are  seen  under  the  clifts,  we  visited  the  hot  baths  of  Ne- 
ro, opening  like  caverns  into  the  side  of  the  hill,  whence  a  stream  con- 
stantly issues,  heated  to  such  a  degree,  that  the  bottom  of  the  bay,  un- 
der water,  is  insupportable  to  the  hand.  A  narrow,  crooked  subter- 
ranean passage  leads  to  the  boiling  spring,  at  the  distance  of  several 
hundred  yards.  We  penetrated  the  gallery  for  perhaps  one  third  the 
length,  when  the  intensity  of  the  vapour  and  the  suffocating  fumes  of 
the  torch-light,  compelled  us  to  retreat  with  all  possible  despatch.  A 
person  in  attendance  went  to  the  spring  and  brought  a  pailful  of  the 
water,  in  which  an  egg  was  boiled  for  each  of  us.  On  his  return,  he 
seemed  nearly  exhausted  with  heat,  and  the  condensed  steam  was 
dripping  from  his  hair  and  face.  These  waters  are  found  extremely 
efficacious  in  rheumatic  complaints.  The  baths  have  gone  to  decay, 
and  the  only  use  now  made  of  them  is  by  the  patients  in  the  hospitals 
of  Naples. 

Returning  to  the  boat,  we  effected  a  second  landing  upon  the  shores 
of  the  Lucrine  Lake,  and  there  mounted  donkeys  to  make  a  circuit 
of  several  miles.  The  Julian  Port  and  the  channel  which  connected 
it  with  the  lake  of  Avernus,  are  entirely  filled  up,  and  scarcely  a  ves- 
tige of  either  is  discoverable.  A  modern  garden  occupies  the  site  of 
the  former,  in  riding  through  which,  a  group  of  ragged  children  ten- 
dered to  us  bouquets  of  roses  and  wild  flowers,  which  grew  upon  the 
ruins  of  imperial  splendour.  The  Lucrine  Lake,  so  celebrated  by  the 
poets  of  the  Augustan  age,  is  almost  obliterated.  A  small  stagnant 
pool,  choked  with  mud  and  reeds,  alone  remains  of  this  once  famous 
sheet  of  water,  on  which  so  many  millions  were  uselessly  expended. 


254        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

So  evanescent  are  the  proudest  monuments  of  kings,  whilst  the  allu- 
sions to  them  by  men  of  genius  are  as  fresh  and  as  interesting  as  ever  I 

A  ride  of  less  than  a  mile  brouoht  us  upon  the  shores  of  Avernus, 
the  very  centre  of  ancient  superstition,  and  the  supposed  entrance  into 
the  infernal  regions.  The  Lake  is  nearly  circular,  perhaps  half  a 
mile  in  diameter,  bordered  with  reeds  and  water-grass.  It  has  no 
visible  outlet,  and  appears  originally  to  have  been  the  deep  crater  of 
a  volcano.  Its  terrors  have  all  vanished,  and  the  eye  searches  in  vain 
for  the  dark  forests  and  gloomy  images,  with  which  its  shores  were 
invested  by  Homer  and  Virgil,  adopting  the  popular  superstitions  of 
the  age.  It  was  the  fabled  abode  of  the  Cimmerians,  who  dwelt  in 
the  neighbouring  caverns,  shut  out  from  the  light  of  day,  and  accord- 
ing to  the  splendid  description  of  the  Greek  poet,  involved  in  eternal 
darkness.  In  all  probability,  the  lake,  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  vol- 
canic region,  and  girt  with  sombre  woods,  presented  natural  pheno- 
mena, which  were  magnified  by  the  terror  of  vulgar  minds,  and  seized 
upon  as  fit  themes  for  the  embellishments  of  the  imagination.  Augustus 
levelled  the  forests.  His  enterprise  was  regarded  by  the  multitude  as 
impious,  which  is  a  proof  that  the  imagery  of  the  two  great  epic  poets 
was  not  altogether  the  work  of  fancy.  The  borders  of  Avernus  arc 
at  present  clad  in  vines  and  wild  shrubbery.  The  water  is  stagnant 
and  filled  with  reptiles.  On  the  southern  side  are  seated  the  ruins  of 
a  building,  which  like  a  hundred  others  in  this  region  has  divided  the 
opinions  of  antiquaries.  Some  consider  it  the  temple  of  Proserpine, 
and  others,  of  Apollo.  It  forms  a  prominent  and  picturesque  object 
in  the  landscape. 

Riding  some  distance  along  the  southern  shore  of  the  Lake,  we 
arrived  at  what  is  denominated  the  Grotto  of  the  Sibyl,  the  entrance 
of  which  is  overgrown  with  bushes  and  fern,  which  two  or  three  pea- 
sants were  busy  in  mowing.  This  cavern  has  the  reputation  of  being" 
the  atrijanua  Ditis — the  gate  of  Pluto  himself;  and  dismounting  from 
Our  donkeys,  we  followed  our  guides  through  the  black  jaws,  in  imita- 
tion of  Ulysses  and  ^neas.  At  the  distance  of  perhaps  a  hundred 
yards  from  the  mouth,  a  narrow  avenue  branches  off*  at  right  angles 
towards  the  west.  Here  the  flambeaux  were  lighted  up,  "and  each  of 
us  mounting,  Anchises  like,  upon  the  back  of  a  peasant,  we  crossed 
the  Stygian  waters,  which  are  something  more  than  knee-deep,  and 
were  safely  landed  in  the  gloomy  caverns  beyond,  without  the  aid  of 
Charon's  boat.  The  very  niche  was  pointed  out  to  us,  from  which 
the  Sibyl  is  said  to  have  uttered  responses.  On  one  side  stands  a 
sarcophagus,  which  perhaps  contained  her  ashes.  The  avenue  is  here 
choked  up  so  as  to  become  impassable,  and  as  the  smoke  of  the  torche;-' 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         25o 

added  to  the  coMfined  air  was  almost  sufTocating,  we  recrossed  the 
Tartarean  waters,  black  as  Cocytus  or  Acheron  itself,  without  reahzin;» 
in  this  instance  the  truth  of  the  poet's  admonition  : 

Facilis  descensus  Averno  est; 
Noctcs  atque  dies  patet  atri  janua  Ditis: 
Sed  revocare  gradum,  superasque  evadere  ad  aura?, 
Hoc  opus,  hie  labor  est. 

I  have  no  time  to  waste  on  the  origin  or  design  of  these  caverns. 
They  may  have  been  connected  with  the  rites  of  ancient  superstition  ; 
it  is  possible  they  were  the  abodes  of  a  rude  people  :  but  it  is  much  more 
probable  they  were  excavated  at  a  subsequent  period,  amidst  the  wan- 
tonness of  Roman  luxury,  as  subterranean  roads,  secret  passages,  or 
canals.  When  it  is  considered,  that  iNero  contemplated  uniting  the 
waters  of  tlie  Tiber  with  those  of  Avcrnus,  and  tliat  he  actually  com- 
menced the  project  of  collecting  all  the  hot  springs  of  Baiaj  into  one  im- 
mense reservoir,  the  mind  can  set  no  limits  to  the  excavations  which 
may  have  been  made  in  prosecution  of  these  wild  schemes.  The 
region  is  full  of  artificial  caves  running  in  all  possible  directions.  As 
for  the  classical  associations  awakened  by  the  scenery,  they  are  so 
numerous  as  to  forbid  any  attempts  at  quotation.  Two  of  the  most 
splendid  episodes  of  the  Odyssey  and  ^Eneid  are  connected  with  the 
lake  of  Avernus,  and  if  any  of  my  readers  wish  to  revive  tlieir  recol- 
lections, they  must  turn  to  the  epics  themselves.  I  read  the  greater 
part  of  the  6th  book  of  the  latter  poem,  while  rambling  about  these 
iiills  and  waters.  But  it  is  my  province  to  sketch  objects  as  they  now 
exist,  leaving  others  to  associate  them  with  their  classical  reading. 

Having  once  more  reached  the  cheerful  light  of  day,  we  remounted 
our  donkeys,  and  rode  more  than  half  way  round  Avernus,  thence^ 
clin)bing  up  a  high  hill  and  entering  the  road  to  Cuma?.  Peter  had  much 
trouble  with  his  jackasses.  They  took  it  into  their  heads  to  lie  down 
once  in  every  few  rods,  either  for  the  purpose  of  rolling  in  the  sand, 
or  from  mere  contrariety  of  disposition.  As  the  rider's  feet  nearly 
touch  the  ground,  there  is  little  danger  in  such  cases  of  his  catching 
a  fall,  and  he  merely  finds  himself  standing  like  a  colossus  astride  of  the 
little  animal.  Such  are  some  of  the  advantages  of  humility  in  the 
style  of  travelling !  In  one  instance,  however,  our  naval  friend  lost 
his  balance,  and  was  thrown  upon  his  back,  without  any  other  injury 
than  losing  his  hat  and  contracting  a  dusty  coat. 

Across  the  path  to  Cumae,  a  substantial  brick  wall,  supposed  to  be  a 
fragment  of  the  ancient  ramparts,  rises  to  the  height  of  sixty  feet,  with  an 
arch  twenty  feet  in  breadth,  called  the  Arco  Felice.  For  aught  I  know,  it 


256        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

may  be  one  of  the  Gates  of  Somnus,*  through  which  the  spectres  of  the 
dead  were  wont  to  flit,  and  the  divinities  of  Tartarus  used  to  send  false 
dreams  to  the  world  above.  It  certainly  leads  to  a  land  of  shadows^ 
and  our  donkeys  glided  through  like  ghosts,  in  journeying  on  towards 
the  Elysian  Fields.  Just  beyond  the  arch,  on  the  left  of  the  road,  are 
the  ruins  of  the  temple  of  the  Giants,  so  called  from  the  colossal 
statues  found  in  its  niches.  The  building  was  small,  notwithstanding 
its  name,  and  offers  nothing  worthy  of  notice. 

The  city  of  Cum£e,  the  oldest  in  Italy,  settled  by  a  Greek  colony  from 
Euboea,  not  only  anterior  to  the  foundations  of  Rome,  but  even  to  the 
Trojan  War,  has  now  entirely  disappeared.  Its  Sibyls  are  gone — its 
oracles  silent.  In  the  few  fragments  of  the  temple,  which  still  strew 
the  brow  of  the  hill,  snakes  and  lizards  have  made  their  home,  and 
were  seen  crawling  over  shattered  columns  and  friezes.  An  earth- 
quake finished  what  the  jealousy  of  Naples  and  the  conquests  of  bar- 
barians left  undemohshed.  The  plough  has  for  many  years  passed  over 
the  site  of  a  city,  once  so  renowned  as  the  seat  of  ancient  religion ; 
and  the  forests  of  poplars  hung  with  vines,  disclosing  here  and  there 
groups  of  swarthy,  squalid  peasants  at  their  labours,  render  the  by- 
paths and  solitudes  almost  appalling.  From  the  hill  on  which  Cumae 
stood,  the  view  extends  northerly  along  the  curved  shore  to  Cape  Gaeta. 
Midway  on  the  desolate  beach,  the  eye  rests  on  a  little  heap  of  ruins 
%vhich  designate  the  site  of  old  Linternum,  whither  Scipio  Africanus 
retreated,  under  the  censures  of  the  Senate,  and  beyond  the  confines 
of  his  ungrateful  country,  ending  his  days  in  exile.  A  part  of  the 
epitaph!  upon  his  tomb,  recorded  by  Livy,  is  said  to  be  found  among 
the  ruins,  and  the  principal  word  of  the  inscription  left  has  given  the 
name  of  Patria  to  the  shore  and  to  the  small  lake  formed  by  the  waters 
of  the  Clunio.  Beneath  the  heights  of  Cumae  is  seen  the  reedy  pool 
of  Licola,  the  ancient  port  of  the  city,  separated  from  the  sea  by  a  ridge  of 
sand,  and  in  the  age  of  A  ugustus  connected  with  the  Lake  of  Avernus  by  a 


*  "  Sunt  geininse  Somni  poitse,  quarum  altera  fertur 
Cornea,  qua  veris  facilis  datur  exitus  umbris : 
Altera,  candenti  perfecta  nitens  elephanto ; 
Sed  falsa  ad  coelum  mittunt  insomnia  Manes." 

If  the  royal  system  of  Italian  custom-houses  had  been  established  in  Virgil's 
time,  he  would  not  have  given  such  free  ingress  and  egress  to  liis  shades,  who 
would  have  been  compelled  to  pay  a  fee  at  the  gate  ;  at  least  equal  to  the  obolus 
-exacted  by  Charon  for  feriiage. 

t  "Ingrata  patria,  nee  ossa  quidem  mea  habes." 
Ungrateful  country,  thou  hast  not  even  my  dust. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         057 

canal.  The  region  is  at  present  entirely  deserted,  and  overgrown  with 
bushes,  forming  another  portion  of  tlic  King's  hunting-groiuids.  Wild 
boars  now  wallow  in  the  mud  of  a  haven,  where  once  rode  the  ships 
of  Euba?a,  engaged  in  an  active  commerce  between  the  colony  and 
the  parent  state.  On  the  other  side,  we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  islands 
of  Ischia  and  Procida,  at  the  distance  of  only  a  few  miles,  and  appear- 
ing through  the  medium  of  a  clear  atmosphere  to  lie  almost  at  our  feet. 
Their  broken  rocks  are  evidently  fragments  of  the  coast,  rent  asunder 
by  earth(iuakes  and  volcanos.  In  the  former  the  subterranean  fires  arc 
not  yet  quenched.  A  Ccw  settlements  are  scattered  over  their  rude, 
mountainous  ridges,  rendering  them  in  the  highest  degree  picturesque, 
rising  like  ruins  from  the  sea. 

Descending  a  long,  steep  declivity  to  the  shore  of  the  Mediterranean, 
we  penetrated  by  torch-light  another  grotto  of  theCumajan  Sibyl,  where 
traditiofi  says  she  had  a  shrine  and  a  home.  The  entrance  of  the 
cavern  is  even  more  lofty  and  spacious  than  the  one  already  described, 
appearing  to  have  been  fashioned  into  a  stately  tcmf)le  with  regular  pil- 
lars and  arches.  It  is  said  to  have  been  connected  by  secret  passages 
with  the  Lake  of  Avernus.  At  the  distance  of  a  few  hundred  yards, 
the  avenue  is  blocked  up,  and  the  floor  of  the  cave  is  covered  with 
loose  stones.  In  some  of  the  war.s  of  the  Goths,  the  roof  was  perfo- 
rated to  the  summit  of  tiic  hill,  to  undermine  a  fortress,  which  at  length 
came  down,  ramparts,  garrison,  and  all.  Again  emerging  into  da)', 
we  rode  along  tlie  shores  of  Lake  Fusaro,  which  is  four  miles  in  cir- 
cumference, and  separated  from  the  sea  by  a  high  sandy  beach.  The 
King  has  here  a  hunting-lodge,  situated  on  a  little  island,  where  he 
amuses  himself  and  his  court,  in  giving  chase  to  the  boar,  and  in  eat- 
ing oysters,  which  the  lake  produces  in  abundance,  and  which  our  own 
experience  enables  us  to  say  are  of  a  good  quality.  The  waters  of 
Fusaro  are  dignified  by  the  classical  reputation  of  having  been  the 
ancient  Acheron,  spreading  l)et\(een  Avernus  and  the  Elysian  Fields. 
Although  the  position  justifies  such  renown  ;  yet  it  appears  that  all  the 
images  of  Virgil's  heaven  and  hell — plains,  lakes,  and  streams,  even 
to  the  skies  and  celestial  luminaries,  were  subterranean.  Among  all 
the  employments  of  the  damned  or  the  blest,  lazzaroni  were  never 
seen  catching,  nor  monarchs  devouring  oysters  ! 

From  Fusaro  we  recrossed  to  Baise,  and  again  embarking  on  the  bay, 
coasted  along  the  shore  to  Cape  Miseno,  a  distance  of  three  or  four 
miles,  landing  as  often  as  a  ruin  attracted  particidar  attention.  The 
remains  of  the  temples  of  Mercury  and  Venus  are  in  the  same  neigh- 
bourhood. Both  are  of  brick,  supposed  to  have  been  cased  with 
marble.     The  former  is  a  rotunda  open  at  top,  like  the  Pantheon  at 

yoL.  ir.  33 


258        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

Rome,  richly  mantled  with  verdure,  and  furnishing  a  very  perlect 
whispering  gallery.  Two  of  us  placed  at  opposite  sides  of  the  walls 
conversed  with  each  other,  without  a  syllable  being  heard  by  a  third 
person  stationed  in  the  centre.  Baths  are  connected  with  the  temple 
of  Venus,  which  lead  antiquaries  to  doubt  the  character  of  these  edi- 
fices. At  one  extremity  of  Baiac,  a  large  Gothic  and  comparatively 
modern  fortress  stands  upon  the  clifts  two  or  three  hundred  feet  above 
the  water,  and  forming  one  of  the  most  picturesque  objects  on  the 
shores  of  the  bay.  The  rocks  are  nearly  all  cavernous,  either  by 
nature  or  art,  which  render  the  deep,  hollow  murmurs  of  the  waves 
in  some  measure  peculiar. 

Passing  the  reputed  gardens  of  Sylla  the  Dictator,  and  the  villa  and 
fish-ponds  of  Hortensius,  we  landed  at  what  is  called  the  tomb  of 
Agrippina,  the  mother  of  Nero,  which  stands  within  a  few  rods  of  the 
water.  A  woman  kindled  her  funeral  torch,  and  conducted  us  through 
the  gloomy  recesses.  A  throng  of  ragged  females  here  beset  us  to 
buy  shells  and  pebbles,  which  they  pretended  were  antiques,  pohshed 
by  the  doves  of  Venus.  Escaping  from  their  importunities,  we  climbed 
the  hills,  hurried  through  the  labyrinth  of  the  Cento  Camerelle — the 
hundred  chambers — and  the  Piscina  INIirabile — the  wonderful  fish- 
pond of  Lucullus,  which  are  both  stumbling-blocks  to  antiquaries, 
baffling  all  their  investigations.  The  most  rational  opinion  seems  to 
be,  that  the  former  were  a  part  of  Nero's  folly,  and  the  latter  a  reser- 
voir of  water  to  supply  the  fleet  in  the  port  of  Misenus.  Specimens 
of  stucco  were  here  seen  in  a  state  of  nearly  perfect  preservation. 

Soon  after  leaving  these  ruins,  and  passing  the  solitary  church  of 
Bauli,  we  arrived  at  the  borders  of  the  Elysian  Fields,  which  slope 
with  a  gentle  declivity  towards  the  south-west,  and  are  at  present 
covered  with  vineyards.  Numerous  tombs  are  scattered  over  the  hills, 
finely  shaded  with  foliage,  but  presenting  odd  scenery  for  the  regions 
of  the  blest,  into  which  such  lugubrious  images  ought  not  to  enter. 
At  the  foot  of  the  declivity,  spread  the  stagnant  waters  of  the  Mare 
Morte,  or  Dead  Sea,  connected  on  one  side  with  the  ancient  Acheron, 
and  on  the  other  with  the  port  of  Miseno.  Pure  as  were  the  skies, 
and  green  and  flowery  as  were  the  gardens  on  the  day  of  our  visit, 
the  Elysian  Fields  are  rather  a  burlesque  upon  the  high-sounding  name, 
presenting  scarcely  a  single  feature,  which  corresponds  with  the  finish- 
ed pictures  of  Virgil.  But  that  is  not  his  fault,  as  his  paradise  was 
not  upon  the  earth.  The  cicerones  might  have  found  a  much  more 
perfect  one  in  many  parts  of  Italy. 

Though  neither  ambrosia  nor  nectar  was  to  be  had  on  the  borders  of 
Elysium,  the  exercise  of  the  morning  had  given  us  an  appetite  for  fare 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  ,259 

less  delicate  and  celestial.  So  linding  a  shady  retreat,  overhung  with 
vines  and  overlooking  the  bay,  we  partook  of  our  oysters  from  Acheron, 
and  such  oilier  knick-knacks  as  Peter  had  been  able  to  cater  in  a  re- 
gion of  poverty.  The  iish-ponds  of  Lucullus  and  Ilortcnsius  are  dry, 
and  no  lampreys  fattened  with  human  flesh,  nor  other  dainties,  were 
to  be  expected  from  these  sources,  had  they  been  desired.  A  light, 
sweet  wine,  made  from  a  grape  which  grows  on  Mount  Gaurus,  and 
which  bears  the  classical  name  of  Falernian,  gave  zest  to  our  simple 
repast,  as  unlike  the  luxurious  suppers  of  the  Romans,  as  the  present 
aspect  of  the  country  is  to  that  of  ancient  Baia?. 

After  dinner  we  re-embarked  from  the  port  of  Miseno,  which  is 
capacious,  deep,  and  safe,  sheltered  on  three  sides  by  land,  with  a 
narrow  entrance.  Here  was  the  station  of  tlie  Roman  fleet,  which 
the  elder  Pliny  commanded  at  the  time  of  tlie  great  eruption  of  Mount 
Vesuvius  in  the  year  79  ;  and  hence  he  sailed  for  Castellamare,  at  the 
base  of  the  mountain,  for  the  purpose  of  satisfying  a  philosophical 
but  fatal  curiosity.  Cape  Misenus,  which  preserves  the  name  either 
created  or  adopted  by  Virgil,  is  a  rugged,  picturesque  promontory, 
with  perpendicular  clifls,  perhaps  two  hundred  feet  in  height,  crown- 
ed with  a  tilla  of  Lucullus,  and  sloping  into  a  low,  narrow  isthmus 
towards  the  Mare  Morte  and  the  Elysian  Fields.  Hoisting,  our  little 
white  sail  to  the  breeze,  which  blew  fresh  and  fragrant  from  the  flowery 
shores  forever  left  behind,  we  scud  across  the  azure  waters  of  tlie  bay, 
in  a  direct  course  to  Pozzuoli.  This  place  contains  some  antiquities 
worth  seeing,  and  as  a  piece  of  the  afternoon  yet  remained,  our  round 
of  observations  was  resumed,  notwithstanding  the  fatigues  of  the 
morning.  In  one  of  the  public  squares  is  seen  the  pedestal  of  a  colos- 
sal statue  of  Tiberius  Cassar,  ornamented  with  bas-relief,  representing 
fourteen  cities  of  Asia  Minor,  restored  by  the  Emperor  after  they  had 
been  destroyed  by  an  earthquake. 

The  remains  of  the  temple  of  Jupiter  Serapis  are  among  the  most 
extensive  we  have  found  in  Italy.  They  were  disinterred  some  seventy 
years  ago,  and  many  valuable  works  of  art  discovered.  This  huge  pile 
was  in  the  form  of  a  parallelogram,  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  length, 
and  something  more  than  a  hundred  feet  in  breadth,  surrounded  with 
porticos  composed  of  columns  of  red  African  marble,  sixty  feet  in 
height,  and  eighteen  in  circumference.  Three  of  the  massive  pillars 
are  yet  standing.  The  lower  part  of  the  shafts  is  eaten  full  of  holes 
by  marine  animals,  and  corroded  as  if  by  long  exposure  to  the  sea — 
a  phenomenon  not  easily  accounted  for.  Nearly  the  whole  area  of 
the  pavement  has  been  cleared  of  rubbish,  but  is  still  covered  witii 
stagnant  water  an  inch  or  two  in  depth,  and  swarms  of  frogs  were 


260        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

seen  hopping  over  the  mosaic,  croaking  their  solitary  homage  to  the 
Eg'yptian  god.  In  the  centre  of  tlie  temple  rose  the  circular  shrine, 
supported  by  magnificent  columns,  the  stumps  of  which  yet  remain, 
like  those  of  a  forest  shattered  by  a  tempest.  The  exterior  coutts  are 
still  supplied  with  hot  springs  from  Solfatara,  used  for  vapour  baths. 

In  climbing  the  hills  of  Pozzuoli,  antiquities  meet  the  traveller  at 
almost  every  step.  The  Cathedral  stands  upon  the  site  of  the  temple 
of  Apollo,  some  remains  of  which  are  yet  discoverable.  Higher  up 
the  acclivity,  sarcophagi  sculptured  with  bas-rehef  have  been  found  in 
excavating  a  garden.  Close  to  the  shore  of  the  bay,  and  command- 
ing a  full  view  of  Cape  Misenus,  stood  a  villa  of  Cicero,  where  many 
of  his  philosophical  works  were  written.  A  few  traces  of  it  are  yet 
visible.  On  the  brow  of  the  eminence  above,  was  an  amphitheatre, 
next  perhaps  to  the  Coliseum  in  dimensions.  The  foundations  are 
tolerably  perfect,  though  entirely  overgrown  with  shrubbery.  A 
threshing-floor  has  been  fornied  on  the  ramparts  ;  and  the  arena  has 
been  converted  into  a  luxuriant  garden.  Two  gloomy  chapels  have 
been  fitted  up  in  the  subterranean  corridors,  and  the  ruin  possesses 
great  religious  sanctity,  on  account  of  the  martyrdom  of  St.  Janua- 
rius,  who  here  performed  several  miracles,  but  at  last  coulfl  not  save 
his  life  from  his  blood-thirsty  persecutors,  and  as  the  tradition  runs,  he 
was  torn  in  pieces  by  wild  beasts.  Not  far  from  the  amphitheatre  was 
an  extensive  reservoir,  for  supplying  it  with  water.  The  subterranean 
arches  are  nearly  perfect,  and  are  now  denominated  from  their  intri- 
cacy the  Labyrinth  of  Daedalus. 

The  Solfatara  is  the  only  remaining  object,  with  a  notice  of  which 
I  shall  tax  the  patience  of  my  readers  in  this  excursion.  It  is  situated 
on  the  summit  of  the  hill  a  mile  and  a  half  from  Pozzuoli,  and  con- 
sists of  the  crater  of  a  volcano,  the  fires  of  which  are  not  yet  extin- 
guished. The  basin  is  nearly  circular,  half  a  mile  in  diameter,  and 
bordered  by  a  high  rim.  A  few  patches  of  the  prickly  gorse  and  wild 
rose  are  the  only  traces  of  vegetation,  to  break  the  sterility  and  deso- 
lation of  the  region.  The  rest  of  the  area  is  naked  marl,  of  a  tawny, 
brimstone  complexion,  and  so  hot  as  to  be  insupportable  to  the  naked 
feet.  Smoke  issues  from  half  a  dozen  different  places,  and  in  the 
night  a  blue,  lambent  flame  is  visible.  We  descended  into  one  of  the 
pits,  whence  the  steam  bursts  with  such  violence,  as  to  throw  up  peb- 
bles and  particles  of  sand  from  the  aperture  of  the  subterranean  fur- 
nace. The  boiling  and  hissing  of  the  water  were  distinctly  heard 
beneath  us.  Large  quantities  of  sulphur  and  vitriol  are  deposited 
upon  the  rocks,  near  the  orifice.  The  process  of  nature  suggested  a 
manufactory,  and  Murat  used  hence  to  derive  the  elements  of  his  gun- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         2GI 

powder.  From  all  appearances  the  crust  of  earth,  forming  the  roof 
of  the  great  laboratory,  is  thin.  It  rings  to  the  tread  of  the  feet. 
Peter  lifted  a  large  stone,  and  hurling  it  upon  the  surface  produced  an 
echo  clearly  distinguishable  in  the  vault  below.  It  is  the  general  opinion 
that  the  aich  will  at  some  future  period  give  way,  and  perhaps  disclose 
a  lake  of  liquid  fire.  If  the  Italians  had  as  much  enter|)rise  as  our 
countrymen  in  boring,  spiracula  would  soon  be  opened  to  the  world 
below,  were  it  merely  from  motives  of  curiosity.  Some  of  Milton's 
sublimest  images  of  the  infernal  regions  arc  supposed  to  have  been 
borrowed  from  this  place,  and  the  burning  marl,  over  which  his  fallen 
angels  walked,  correspond  very  nearly  with  the  Solfatara. 


262        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

LETTER  LXVI. 

EXCURSION   TO   THE    TOP    OF   VESUVIUS HERCULANEUM. 

Maij,  182(), 

Our  visit  to  Vesuvius  occupied  the  greater  part  of  a  day.  Wishing^ 
to  see  the  sun  rise  from  the  top  of  the  mountain,  we  left  Naples  at 
one  o'clock  in  the  morning,  taking  a  fiacre  as  far  as  the  village  of  Por- 
tici,  nearly  half  the  distance  of  the  seven  or  eight  miles.  At  the  hour 
of  our  departure,  the  skies  were  free  from  clouds,  but  suffused  with 
redness,  giving  to  the  moon  and  stars  a  sultry,  fiery  aspect.  The  city 
was  for  once  found  in  a  state  of  perfect  silence,  and  the  lazzaroni, 
who  had  no  homes,  snored  quietly  in  their  baskets.  There  was  some- 
thing peculiarly  solemn  in  the  hollow  murmurs  of  the  waves,  at  this 
witching  time  of  night.  Not  a  person  was  seen  moving,  save  the 
sentinels  stationed  along  the  road,  who  permitted  us  to  pass  without 
molestation. 

On  arriving  at  Portici,  or  more  properly  at  Resina,  a  small  conti- 
guous village,  we  roused  up  Salvadore  Madonna,  the  famous  guide  for 
the  mountain,  who  rose  with  some  reluctance,  before  he  and  his  mules 
had  been  sufficiently  refreshed  by  sleep  from  the  labours  of  the  pre- 
ceding day.  After  rubbing  open  his  eyes  and  taking  an  observation  at 
the  heavens,  like  old  Palinurus,  he  said  we  had  come  too  early,  and 
liad  selected  an  unfortunate  day,  as  the  sirocco  was  blowing,  and  the 
mountain  would  be  covered  with  clouds.  He  would  however  accom- 
pany us,  if  it  was  our  pleasure.  Making  due  allowances  for  his  wish 
to  finish  his  morning  nap,  and  fearing  that  circumstances  might  be 
equally  unfavourable  on  another  morning,  we  concluded  to  persevere 
in  the  excursion.  The  donkeys  were  saddled  with  all  possible  de- 
spatch, and  our  little  caravan  took  up  the  line  of  march  in  total  dark- 
ness, as  the  day  had  not  yet  dawned,  and  the  moon  had  gone  down. 
But  Salvadore  could  probably  perform  the  route  blindfold,  having  been 
trained  to  it  from  childhood. 

The  path  at  first  leads  through  a  faubourg  of  the  village,  straggling 
for  some  distance  up  the  acclivity,  and  thence  crosses  beds  of  lava, 
which  came  down  in  molten  torrents,  and  congealed  in  dark,  shapeless, 
desolate  masses,  about  which  not  a  blade  of  verdure  is  to  be  seen.  A 
more  dreary,  gloomy  picture  cannot  be  imagined.  The  belts  are  of 
the  width  of  broad  rivers,  sometimes  a  mile  in  breadth,  extending 
from  the  cone  to  the  margin  of  the  bay  ;  and  in  some  instances,  they 
have  poured  their  burning  streams  into  the  water.  There  is  much  more 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  o(jy 

asperity  in  the  surface  of  the  beds,  than  I  expected  to  find.  Protu- 
berances five  or  six  feet  in  height,  and  of  the  most  fantastic  shapes, 
are  scattered  over  the  hideous  tracks,  having  nearly  the  same  degree  of 
roughness,  that  a  torrent  of  water  would  assume  in  rolling  down  the 
hill,  and  freezing  as  it  broke  over  the  obstacles  opposing  its  passage. 
The  complexion  and  general  appearance  of  the  beds  at  a  distance  is 
not  unlike  that  of  a  newly  ploughed  field,  in  a  rude  state,  with  a  black 
soil. 

About  midway  between  Resina  and  the  base  of  the  Cone,  stands 
the  Hermitage,  on  a  high  ridge  which  may  emphatically  be  considered 
as  an  island,  surrounded  by  broad  torrents  of  lava  on  either  hand.  The 
solitary  white  house  is  kept  by  a  monk,  who  affords  refreshments  to 
travellers.  His  tenement  is  furnished  with  a  large  bell,  which  he  rings 
every  Sunday  morning,  and  on  other  feast  days,  probably  to  let  the  world 
beneath  him  know  that  he  is  alive.  At  certain  seasons,  religious  pro- 
cessions from  Naples  and  the  neighbouring  villages  climb  to  the  Her- 
mitage, to  celebrate  the  anniversaries  of  some  of  their  saints.  The 
brow  of  the  hill  in  front  of  the  house  has  been  planted  with  trees,  and 
a  dozen  little  shrines  have  been  erected  in  imitation  of  Mount  Calvary. 
As  wc  were  in  great  haste  to  reach  the  top  of  the  mountain,  the 
morning  dreams  of  the  monk  were  not  disturbed. 

On  leaving  the  Hermitage,  the  path  winds  along  the  spine  of  the 
ridge,  bordered  with  verdure,  which  becomes  extremely  grateful 
amidst  the  solitary  waste.  The  point  of  the  island  soon  terminates  in 
other  beds  of  lava,  which  extend  to  the  foot  of  the  Cone,  and  over 
which  our  donkeys  picked  their  way  at  a  snail's  pace,  notwithstanding 
all  our  efforts  to  hasten  them  forward.  For  the  greater  part  of  the 
distance,  the  path  is  passable  for  horses,  and  Salvadore  could  not  intro- 
duce an  improvement  more  acceptable  to  travellers,  than  by  substitu- 
ting a  better  sort  of  animals  in  place  of  his  jackasses.  It  is  much 
harder  work  to  ride  them  than  to  chmb  the  hill  on  foot.  They  arc 
also  very  unsafe.  One  of  our  countrymen  last  winter  was  pitched 
thrice  among  the  crags  of  lava,  and  came  near  breaking  his  neck. 

To  our  inexpressible  regret,  on  arriving  at  the  base  of  the  Coner, 
the  predictions  of  the  guide  had  proved  true,  and  the  whole  hill  was 
enveloped  in  a  dense  cloud,  so  that  our  horizon  did  not  extend  twenty 
feet  in  any  direction.  Here  another  question  arose,  whether  or  not 
it  was  worth  while  to  ascend  farther,  under  such  circumstances. 
But  perseverance  carried  us  onward.  Throwing  aside  our  cloaks, 
and  tying  our  donkeys  to  lumps  of  lava,  we  plunged  into  the  mist 
and  commenced  crawling  up  an  acclivity,  rising  with  an  angle  of 
about   45   degrees,    and    composed   of   cinders,   ashes,    and    loose 


264        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

stones.  The  summit  is  between  three  and  four  thousand  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Fortunately,  only  a  small  portion  of 
the  toilsome  heights  could  be  seen  in  advance.  Salvadore  came 
panting-  after  us,  directing  us  not  to  walk  so  fast.  The  fatigues 
of  the  ascent  appeared  to  us  very  much  exaggerated  ;  and  to  per- 
sons of  ordinary  activity,  sedan  chairs,  belts  about  the  loins,  and 
pilgrim  staves  are  a  useless  apparatus.  Much  less  weariness  was  ex- 
perienced, than  in  climbing  Mam  Tor,  in  Derbyshire  Peak.  The 
walk  was  accomplished  in  less  than  an  hour,  and  witi.out  resting  but 
once.  For  the  greater  part  of  the  way,  the  route  leads  up  a  furrow 
in  the  hill,  into  which  stones  have  tumbled,  fornung  tolerable  foothold. 
Smoke  gushes  out  in  sundry  places  along  the  way,  and  the  hand  can- 
not bear  the  heat  of  the  surface. 

On  reaching  the  top  at  about  G  o'clock  in  the  morning,  we  for  a 
time  abandoned  all  hope  of  being  adequately  compensated  for  our 
toil,  so  far  as  it  regarded  a  prospect.  The  crater  was  entirely  filled 
with  thick  clouds,  mingled  with  smoke,  tumbling  in  broken  volumes 
over  the  verge,  and  hanging  in  wreaths  about  the  black  crags.  It  was 
impossible  for  the  eye  to  penetrate  ten  feet  into  the  abyss,  and  the  ima- 
gination was  lei't  to  fathom  its  gloomy  depths  Here  we  were,  invol- 
ved in  mist,  and  without  cloaks.  Great  difficulty  was  experienced  in 
persuading  the  guide  to  wait  an  hour,  with  the  hope  of  a  change  of 
weather.  At  length  he  consented,  and  finding  a  warm  place,  under 
the  rocks  near  one  of  the  spiracula,  he  stretched  himself  out  upon  the 
cinders,  and  finished  his  interrupted  slumbers  ;  while  we  amused  our- 
selves in  throwing  stones  into  the  apertures,  to  hear  them  rumble  in 
the  caverns  below.  The  vapour  rising  out  of  these  crevices  exactly 
resembles  that  issuing  from  a  hot  chimney  or  brick-kiln,  and  the  hand 
is  as  soon  scorched  in  coming  in  contact  with  it.  A  low,  heavy,  sul- 
len sound  of  the  subterranean  furnaces  is  heard,  though  less  distinctly 
than  at  the  Solfatara. 

After  a  sleepless  night  and  the  fatigues  of  the  morning,  nothing  but 
intense  curiosity  kept  us  from  following  the  example  of  our  guide,  and 
patience  was  nearly  exhausted,  when  casting  my  eye  towards  the  cra- 
ter, I  perceived  a  change  in  the  aspect  of  the  clouds.  More 
of  the  abyss  became  every  moment  visible.  The  dark,  ragged 
rocks  forming  the  circumference,  and  shooting  up  into  rude  shat- 
tered peaks,  were  developed  one  by  one,  till  glimpses  of  the  very  bot- 
tom, at  the  depth  of  fifteen  hundred  or  two  thousand  feet,  alternately 
appeared  and  vanished.  Soon  the  disk  of  the  sun  was  seen  through 
the  mist,  "  shorn  of  his  beams."'  On  turning  to  the  outward  verge  of 
the  crater,  a  scene  was  witnessed  which  wholly  baffles  description. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  2G5 

The  cloud  had  by  this  time  become  a  tiiin,  semi-transparent  vapour, 
shifted  every  instant  by  gentle  currents  of  air,  and  as  often  varying  the 
objects  around  us.  With  the  suddenness  of  a  flash  of  lightning  in 
the  night,  the  blue  skies  with  fleecy  clouds  reposing  in  the  horizon,  the 
whole  bay  of  Naples,  its  azure  waters,  its  islands,  its  white  sails,  the 
splendid  circle  of  towns,  and  the  green  shores,  spread  like  enchant- 
ment beneath  the  eye — and  then  a  curtain  of  mist  swept  by,  involving 
all  in  utter  obscurity,  till  the  veil  was  again  lifted  by  the  winds.  The 
feelings  involuntarily  souglit  relief  in  rapturous  applause  ;  and 
even  Salvadore  clapped  his  hands  with  as  much  enthusiasm,  as  he 
would  manifest  at  the  exhibition  of  some  grand  spectacle  in  the  the- 
atre of  San  Carlo.  In  extent,  grandeur,  and  picturesque  beauty,  the 
scenery  far  transcended  the  most  splendid  conceptions  of  the  imagina- 
tion. While  standing  with  my  back  to  the  sun,  my  shadow  was  dis- 
tinctly thrown  several  times  upon  a  volume  of  cloud  in  front,  with  two 
perfect  and  vivid  concesitric  circles  of  rainbows,  three  or  four  feet  in 
diameter  surrounding  my  head.* 

At  last  every  vestige  of  the  vapour  disappeared  and  left  us  in  the  full 
Maze  of  day.  A  perfect  view  of  the  crater  was  obtained.  It  is  about 
four  miles  in  circumference,  and  in  shape  nearly  circular.  The  brim 
is  broken  into  deep  rugged  notches,  fifty  or  a  hundred  feet  deep,  and 
bordered  by  the  splintered  fragments  of  the  mountain,  impending  in 
rude  crags  over  the  abyss.  This  belt  of  rocks,  exhibiting  a  frightful 
image  of  ruin,  extends  about  one  tliird  of  tiie  way  down,  and  thence 
commences  a  region  of  loose  cinders,  sand,  and  ashes,  sloping  with 
a  steep  declivity  to  the  bottom.  Pieces  of  the  clifl'  are  every  moment 
dropping  to  the  depths  below,  breaking  the  profound  silence  of  the  hill, 
and  producing  the  most  dreary  sound  nnaginable.  In  the  very  apex  of 
the  inverted  cone,  there  appeared  to  be  a  bed  of  solid  rock  or  lava, 
filled  with  water,  which  reflected  the  rays  of  the  sun  with  such  inten- 
sity, that  it  was  at  first  mistaken  for  some  glittering  mineral.  Along 
the  sides  of  the  crater  the  smoke  rises  in  a  liundred  different  places, 
ascending  in  most  cases  gently,  as  if  proceeding  from  smothered  fires, 


*  This  beautiful  phenomenon  was  entirely  new  to  me,  and  I  was  almost  afraid 
to  record  the  fact,  lest  my  readers  might  suppose  the  double  halo  a  mere  phantom 
of  the  imagination.  I  have  met  with  nothing  of  the  kind  in  the  course  of  my 
reading.  In  conversation  with  a  Fronch  gentleman,  since  my  return  to  the  United 
States,  he  read  to  me  a  paragraph,  stating  that  one  of  his  countrymen  had  witness- 
ed a  similar  spectrum  from  the  peak  of  a  mountain  in  France.  I  believe  it  is  of 
rare  occurrence,  as  a  very  peculiar  combination  of  circumstances  is  required  for 
its  exhibition. 

VOL.  n.  34 


2C6         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

and  curling  in  wreaths  round  the  projecting  rocks.  The  guide  stated 
that  an  unusual  quantity  was  emitted  on  the  day  of  our  visit,  owing 
to  the  prevalence  of  a  southern  wind. 

It  seems  to  be  the  general  opinion,  that  the  Volcano  is  in  its  old  age, 
and  that  its  combustible  materials  are  nearly  exhausted.  So  thought 
the  inhabitants  of  Herculaneum  and  Pompeii,  whose  streets  were  pa- 
ved with  lava  tlirown  out  centuries  before,  and  who  were  lulled  into  a 
fatal  security  by  a  temporary  repose  of  the  elements.  Since  that  period 
not  less  than  forty  eruptions  have  taken  place,  covering  all  sides  of  the 
mountain  with  a  mass  of  ruins,  which  would  make  a  hill  twice  the 
size  of  the  cone,  and  which  prove  that  the  torrents  ejected  must  come 
from  great  depths  in  the  earth.  Incredible  stories  are  told  of  the 
height  to  v^hich  the  showers  of  fire  and  cinders  are  elevated,  and  of 
the  distances  to  which  they  extend.  Egypt,  Syria,  and  Constantinople 
are  said  to  have  witnessed  a  rain  of  ashes  during  some  of  the  eruptions, 
and  tiie  column  is  supposed  to  have  ascended  to  the  upper  regions  of 
the  atmosphere,  thirty  or  forty  miles  from  the  earth.  Such  tales  are 
contrary  to  all  the  calculations  of  projectiles,  and  outrage  belief.  The 
last  eruption  occurred  in  1822,  when  about  eight  hundred  feet  of  the 
top  of  the  hill  was  taken  off.  Torrents  of  lava,  twenty  feet  in  depth, 
rolled  about  half  way  down  the  mountain,  in  the  direction  of  the  villa- 
ges lining  the  shore,  the  inhabitants  of  which  were  in  a  state  of  the 
utmost  terror,  expecting  to  reahze  the  fate  of  Herculaneum  and  Pom- 
peii. It  rained  ashes  for  several  days  in  the  streets  of  Naples,  and 
the  air  was  so  thick  as  to  render  candles  necessary  at  noon  day.  The 
indications  of  a  convulsion  by  a  long  course  of  observation  have  been 
clearly  ascertained.  Immense  volumes  of  smoke,  of  a  darker  com- 
plexion than  usual,  rise  in  the  form  of  a  wide  spreading  tree,  the  top 
of  which  reaches  to  heaven,  and  the  column  extending  sometimes 
twenty  miles  in  diameter.  The  waters  of  the  bay  retreat  from  the 
strand,  as  if  absorbed  into  subterranean  gulfs,  to  be  emitted  from  the 
crater.  A  tremor  is  felt  in  the  earth.  These  signs  continue  for  a  day 
or  two,  giving  the  populous  district  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  warning 
of  the  impending  calamity.  In  1822  the  people  clung  to  their  property, 
their  little  all,  to  the  last,  and  the  police  were  obliged  to  tear  them 
away.  Thieves,  disguised  in  female  attire,  seized  the  opportunity  of 
plundering  amidst  the  scene  of  confusion. 

I  walked  about  one  third  of  the  way  round  the  crater,  and  should 
have  completed  the  circuit,  had  not  another  cloud  dashed  against  the 
mountain  and  again  involved  us  in  mist.  Two  English  ladies,  now  at 
Naples  are  making  preparations  to  descend  into  the  abyss,  by  means 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         2C7 

of  ropes  fastened  to  the  cliifs.  Such  an  enterprise  deserves  little  ap- 
plause, since  it  is  mere  matter  of  heroism,  and  will  probably  not  serve 
to  extend  the  sphere  of  philosophical  knowledge.  The  formation  of 
the  basin  can  be  examined  to  as  good  advantage  from  the  top  as  from 
the  bottom.  Having  lingered  something  more  than  two  hours  on  the 
top  of  the  mountain,  and  examined  its  various  aspects  in  the  most  sa- 
tisfactory manner,  we  descended  in  a  lew  minutes  from  the  height, 
which  it  required  a  wearisome  hour  to  climb.  In  the  course  of  the 
jaunt,  I  picked  up  among  the  embers  the  solo  of  a  pretty  shoe,  which 
looked  as  if  it  might  have  been  thrown  out  by  tie  volcano.  Thinking 
that  old  Empedocles*  might,  accordini;  to  his  dortrine  of  transmigra- 
tion, have  been  once  more  changed  intc  <:  girl,  and  the  proofs  of  his 
mortality  again  discovered  in  the  fragments  (»f  a  shpper,  1  added  the 
relic  to  Salvadore's  museum,  although  he  did  not  seem  to  appreciate 
its  value. 

In  recrossing  the  beds  of  lava,  our  guide  relieved  the  tedium  of  the 
way  by  giving  an  account  of  the  remarkable  personages,  whom  he  had 
conducted  to  the  top  of  A^esuvius.  fJaroii  Humboldt  has  ascended 
four  times,  for  the  purpose  of  making  philosophical  experiments.  All 
the  Bonapartes  save  Napoleon,  have  been  among  the  number  of  visit- 
ants. The  Emperor  of  Austria,  the  late  Princess  Charlotte  of  Eng- 
land, and  many  of  the  sovereigns  of  Europe,  have  been  carried  up  in 
sedans — a  species  of  cruelty,  which,  to  a  person  of  any  feeling,  must 
more  than  counterbalance  the  pleasure.  Count  Bergami,  and  the  late 
Queen  Caroline  must  not  be  forgotten  in  the  enumeration  of  nobility. 
They  went  up  together,  and  are  said  to  have  been  enamoured  of  smo- 
thered flames.  Tradition  is  silent,  whether  the  cavalier  put  his  shoulder 
to  the  sedan,  or  was  himself  carried  in  state. 

On  our  return  to  Resina,  we  examined  the  museum  of  Salvadore, 
which  contains  mineralogical  specimens  of  the  whole  region  in  the 
vicinity  of  Vesuvius.  Cases  containing  full  suites,  are  neatly  put  up, 
and  kept  for  sale  at  reasonable  i)rices..  We  had  picked  up  for  our- 
selves some  fine  specimens  in  the  vicinity  of  the  crater  ;  but  a  travel- 
ler, who  is  constantly  on  the  wing,  will  soon  learn  the  folly  and  im- 
practicability of  coUectifig  mineralogical  cabinets.     I  began  several 


*  This  philosopher  and  disciple  of  Pythagoras  contended,  that  he  had  success- 
ively appeared  on  earth  in  the  forms  of  a  girl,  a  hoy,  a  hird,  a  fish,  and  last  of  all 
Empedocles.  He  secretly  threw  himself  into  the  crater  of  Etna,  wishing  to  pass 
for  a  god ;  but  an  eruption  ejected  his  sandal,  and  was  the  means  of  exposing  his 
unfounded  claims  to  divine  honours. 


268        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

times  to  make  a  collection  of  such  as  I  deemed  most  curious  ;  but 
after  the  parcels  were  kept  in  my  trunk  just  long  enough  to  wear  out 
my  clothes,  they  were  in  most  cases  ihrowr;  away. 

While  breakfast  was  preparing,  a  cicerone  conducted  us  through 
the  ruins  of  Herculaneum,  buried  seventy  feet  beneath  the  villages  of 
Resina  and  Portici.  The  entrance  through  long,  dark,  and  intricate 
avenues,  render  the  use  of  tapers  necessary  from  the  very  threshold  of 
the  descent.  Instead  of  the  bright  skies  which  once  canopied  the  an- 
cient city,  its  firmament  is  now  composed  of  a  solid  bed  of  lava,  and 
the  rumbling  of  carriages  is  heard  on  the  road  above.  The  excava- 
tions are  very  circumscribed,  and  the  ruins  are  too  imperfectly  developed 
to  afford  much  interest.  Treasures  to  an  unknown  extent  yet  remain  to 
be  opened,  and  as  the  surface  is  thickly  covered  with  modern  buildings, 
among  which  is  the  king's  palace,  ages  may  elapse  before  the  whole 
will  be  explored.  The  ancient  theatre  is  at  present  the  only  object 
which  attracts  the  attention  of  the  traveller.  Its  proportions,  its 
benches,  its  entrances,  and  its  ornaments,  even  to  the  red  stucco  upon 
the  walls,  are  distinctly  seen.  The  corridors  are  surrounded  by  a 
suite  of  apartments,  which  were  probably  the  coffee-houses  and  loun- 
ges of  the  audience.  It  is  said  that  the  inhabitants  were  in  the  thea- 
tre, at  the  time  it  was  overwhelmed — a  supposition  wholly  improba- 
ble, since  only  a  few  skeletons  have  been  found.  The  catastrophe 
does  not  seem  to  have  been  sudden.  Pliny  had  time  to  sail  from 
Cape  Misenus  to  Stabiae,  a  distance  of  twenty-five  or  thirty  miles, 
after  the  eruption  appeared,  before  these  cities  were  destroyed.  Am- 
ple time  was  therefore  afforded  for  those  who  chose  to  make  their 
escape. 

It  is  the  received  opinion,  that  half  a  dozen  different  torrents  of 
lava,  at  distant  periods,  have  rolled  above  Herculaneum,  producing  as 
many  distinct  strata.  Indeed,  it  is  wholly  incredible,  that  a  single 
eruption  should  emit  a  bed  seventy  or  eighty  feet  in  dej)th.  As  Her- 
culaneum was  overwhelmed  by  the  same  deluge  as  Pompeii,  it  becomes 
a  question,  why  the  former  should  be  buried  in  solid  masses  of  lava, 
while  the  latter  was  covered  merely  with  ashes,  cinders,  and  scoria. 
The  fact  may  be  explained  by  the  supposition,  that  the  streams  of  lava 
succeeded  the  first  showers  of  other  materials  and  melted  them  into 
solid  masses.  These  primary  layers  seem  to  have  formed  a  covering, 
to  protect  the  remains  of  the  city  from  the  burning  flood,  which  sub- 
sequently came  down  from  the  mountain,  and  annihilated  every  thing, 
with  which  it  came  in  contact.  It  is  a  subject  of  regret  to  the  travel- 
ler, that  he  has  no  opportunity  of  examining  the  stratification  of  Her- 


LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE.         260 

culancuni.  All  the  excavations  except  that  about  the  theatre  have 
been  filled  up.  This  city  was  the  second  or  third  in  size  and  import- 
ance in  Campania,  anterior  to  Rome  in  its  foundation,  and  at  the  time 
of  its  destruction,  tlie  scat  of  wealth  and  luxury.  But  I  will  not  dwell 
on  this  topic,  having  a  long  story  of  the  same  kind  to  tell  of  a  sister 
city,  overwhelmed  by  a  common  calamity,  and  much,  more  fully  laid 
open  to  observation. 


•Z7&  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

LETTER  LXVII. 

EXCURSION  TO  POMPEII. 

May,  1826, 

A  DAY  was  busily  occupied  in  examining  the  remains  of  Pompfeii, 
seated  on  the  south-western  slope  of  Vesuvius,  midway  between  the 
top  of  the  mountain  and  the  bay,  twelve  or  fourteen  miles  from  Na- 
ples. The  road  leading  to  it,  through  Torre  del  Greco  and  Annunzi- 
ata,  traverses  several  beds  of  lava,  by  one  of  which  the  former  village 
was  entirely  destroyed  in  the  great  eruption  of  1794.  Some  of  the 
buildings  are  yet  seen  buried  to  the  chamber  windows  by  the  deluge  of 
fire,  which  descended  in  billows  high  as  those  of  the  ocean,  sweeping 
away  every  thing  in  its  path.  It  is  impossible  to  imagine  any  pheno- 
menon more  awfully  sublime  than  these  burning  torrents,  kindhng  into 
a  flame  all  the  combustible  matter  over  which  they  roll,  and  producing 
tremendous  explosions  of  rocks,  with  which  they  come  in  contact. 
The  foliage  bordering  the  tract  in  a  moment  becomes  sere,  and  the 
next  instant  is  in  a  blaze.  One  would  almost  be  willing  to  meet  Pliny's 
fate — certainly  to  encounter  the  risk  he  did — for  the  sake  of  witness- 
ing a  spectacle  of  so  much  grandeur.  The  beds  formed  by  the  erup- 
tion of  1794  are  yet  perfectly  bleak  and  sterile,  though  the  borders  are 
exuberantly  rich  and  productive.  Fields  all  green,  flowery,  and  gay, 
extend  far  up  the  acclivities  of  the  mountain,  between  these  broad  de- 
solate tracts  of  lava.  Lachryma-christi,  a  wine  well  known  for  its 
excellence,  is  peculiar  to  this  district,  in  which  great  quantities  of  it 
are  made. 

The  situation  of  Pompeii  is  delightful,  in  the  midst  of  a  fertile 
region,  sufficiently  elevated  to  command  a  view  of  the  sea  and  moun- 
tains. Immense  mounds  of  saiul  and  ashes,  thrown  out  in  making  the 
excavations,  admonish  the  traveller  of  his  approach.  We  arrived  at 
an  early  hour  in  the  forenoon,  and  lingered  till  sunset  among  the  ruins. 
The  town  was  four  iniles  in  circumference,  of  an  irregular  shape,  and 
surrounded  with  double  walls.  Only  one  eighth  of  its  area  has  yet 
been  excavated.  The  rest  is  buried  to  the  depth  of  fifteen  or  twenty 
feet.  Excavations  are  still  in  progress.  The  surface  is  planted  with 
poplars,  vines,  and  maize.  But  the  soil  appears  arid,  and  vegetation 
parclied  and  stunted,  though  irrigated  by  the  waters  of  the  Sarno,  car- 
ried through  the  town  in  aqueducts. 

We  commenced  our  examination  with  the  Amphitheatre  near  the 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        271 

southern  gate.  It  is  nearly  in  a  perfect  state,  similar  in  form  and 
construction  to  the  Coliseum  at  Rome,  with  two  principal  entrances 
on  opposite  sides,  and  a  small  door  lor  carrying  out  the  dead,  killed  in 
combats  on  the  arena.  The  podium  or  lower  circle  of  benches  seems 
to  have  been  guarded  by  an  iron  railing.  Two  fragments  of  bas-relief, 
one  representing  a  charioteer  in  the  attitude  of  driving,  and  the  other 
a  mask,  are  still  visible.  The  exterior  was  surrounded  with  a  course 
for  chariot  races,  elevated  by  a  concentric  wall  and  terrace  above  the 
entrances  of  the  aiii[)hitheatre,  and  secured  on  the  outside  by  balus- 
trades. These  aerial  races  at  the  height  of  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  from 
the  ground,  must  have  formed  a  curious  spectacle,  in  the  corridors 
and  passages  of  the  circus,  the  pavements  are  composed  of  blocks  of 
lava,  showing  that  this  region  has  been  volcanic  from  time  imme- 
morial. 

A  little  to  the  north  of  the  amphitheatre  is  a  building  called  the 
Triclinium,  exhibiting  traces  of  couches  and  tables,  where  the  fre- 
quenters of  public  amusements  used  to  recline  at  the  feast.  In  the 
same  quarter,  excavations  have  been  made,  which  exhibit  perfectly 
the  several  strata  which  overwhelmed  Pompeii,  in  the  memorable 
eruption  of  the  year  79.  It  is  supposed,  that  each  stratun)  was  the 
work  of  a  day,  and  that  the  number  corresponds  with  the  intermissions 
and  renewals  of  the  showers  of  fire,  water,  lava,  pumice-stones,  cin- 
ders, ashes,  and  sand,  which  deluged  the  ill-fated  city.  The  first  or 
bottom  layer  is  five  or  six  feet  thick,  composed  of  small  whitish  stones, 
loose  and  round,  mingled  with  globules  of  lava,  of  the  size  of  shot. 
Above  this  are  spread  several  beds  of  ashes  and  cinders,  of  a  darker 
complexion,  and  perfectly  distinct  in  formation.  It  will  be  seen  from 
these  facts,  that  the  ruins  of  the  mountain  which  overwhelmed  Pompeii 
differ  entirely  in  character  f(^m  the  solid  masses  of  lava  under  which 
ilerculaneum  was  buried,  though  both  cities  were  destroyed  during 
the  same  eruption. 

Crossing  a  plain  about  half  a  mile  in  width,  enamelled  with  a  variety 
of  wild  flowers,  which  bloom  above  the  unopened  sepulchre  of  the 
town,  we  arrived  at  one  of  the  principal  streets,  which  has  been  exca- 
vated to  the  pavement,  and  is  in  as  perfect  a  state  as  it  was  seventeen 
centuries  ago.  It  is  lined  on  both  sides  with  public  buildings,  dwell- 
ing-houses and  shops,  the  fronts  and  walls  of  which  remain  entire, 
their  roofs  alone  having  been  pressed  in  by  the  showers  of  volcanic 
matter.  Nothing  was  wanting  but  inhabitants  to  complete  the  picture 
of  a  modern  Italian  village.  We  strolled  along  the  street  just  as  we  would 
through  the  Toledo,  peeping  into  the  shops,  and  pausing  to  examine 
\vhatever  fell  in  our  way.     It  is  sufficiently  broad  for  two  modern  car- 


272         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

riages  to  pass  abreast ;  paved  with  large  flags  accurately  adjusted  ; 
furnished  with  side-walks,  and  with  stepping-stones,  at  convenient 
intervals,  elevated  a  foot  or  more,  to  enable  pedestrians  to  cross  com- 
fortably in  wet  weather.  Much  more  cleanliness  prevails,  than  in  the 
most  fashionable  parts  of  Na{)les  and  Rome.  The  pavenient  is  deeply 
worn  with  the  tracks  of  ancient  carriage  wheels,  proving  that  the  town 
was  old  at  the  time  of  its  destruction.  I  had  the  curiosity  to  measure 
the  distance  between  the  ruts,  and  found  it  to  be  five  feet,  about  the 
width  of  a  modern  coach. 

Many  of  the  dwelling-houses  and  shops  were  examined  with  minute 
attention.  They  look  so  like  inhabited  tenements,  that  it  almost  seem- 
ed proper  to  knock  or  ring  at  the  door,  lest  the  stranger  should  intrude 
on  a  family  of  old  Pompeiians.  The  preservation  of  the  buildings, 
composed  of  ordinary  materials,  is  perfectly  astonishing.  Not  only  the 
walls,  but  the  painted  stucco  and  frescos,  even  to  the  most  delicate 
lines,  are  as  entire,  and  almost  as  fresh,  as  if  they  had  been  done  six 
months  or  a  year  ago.  There  seems  to  have  been  nothing  damp  or 
corrosive  in  the  substances,  which  have  protected  them  from  the  in- 
fluence of  the  elements  for  so  many  ages.  The  apartments  are  uni- 
formly small,  badly  lighted,  without  fire-places,  and  in  all  respects  in- 
convenient, affording  strong  evidence  that  the  ancient  inhabitants  know 
as  little  of  the  comforts  of  home,  in  our  sense  of  the  word,  as  do  the 
modern  Italians,  and  that  most  of  their  time,  except  in  the  hours  of 
sleeping,  was  passed  in  the  streets,  and  at  places  of  public  amusement. 
The  decorations  of  the  rooms  are  quite  as  handsome  as  the  same  de- 
scriptions of  ornaments  at  the  present  day.  Some  of  the  mosaic 
floors  are  of  exquisite  workmanship,  and  the  designs  exhibit  a  good 
deal  of  taste.  The  walls  are  painted  of  different  colours — generally 
green,  but  sometimes  red  or  yellow.  In  a  sculptor's  shop,  spots  of 
the  liquid  plaster  which  bespattered  the  side  of  the  room  while  he  was 
at  work,  remain  as  fresh  as  ever.  We  could  at  first  hardly  beUeve  our 
own  eyes,  and  suspected  some  deception,  till  other  streets  had  been 
traversed,  and  the  same  vivid  impressions  found  in  all  parts  of  the  city 
that  have  yet  been  opened. 

The  two  theatres,  one  for  tragedy  and  the  other  for  comedy,  are 
nearly  entire,  and  show  perfectly  the  construction  and  arrangement  of 
such  edifices  among  the  Greeks  and  Romans.  They  are  of  a  semi- 
circular form,  rising  with  tiers  of  stone  steps  to  the  height  of  twenty  or 
thirty  feet,  terminating  in  a  gallery  guarded  by  iron  balustrades,  and 
appropriated  to  the  female  part  of  the  audience.  The  stage  did  not 
differ  materially  from  that  of  a  modern  theatre,  except  that  it  was 
broader  and  had  much  less  depth.     Behind  was  the  postscenium  or 


LETTERS  FROiU  EUROPE.  i>^73 

green-room  ;  in  front,  the  proscenium  corresponding  with  our  orches- 
tra ;  and  the  ancient  orchestra  seems  to  have  answered  to  tlie  modern 
parterre  or  pit,  though  used  for  a  different  purpose.  Two  play-tickets 
have  been  found  near  the  theatres,  and  are  now  deposited  in  the  Mu- 
seum at  Naples.  They  are  of  ivory,  circular  in  shape,  bearing  the 
name  of  if^schylus,  the  Shakspcare  of  Greece,  with  the  number  of  the 
place  in  Greek  and  Latin  on  one  side,  and  an  image  of  the  theatre 
on  the  reverse.  The  practice  of  assigning  and  numbering  seats,  to 
prevent  confusion,  appears  to  have  been  introduced  by  Augustus.  In 
the  pillars  and  ornaments  of  the  buildings  at  Pompeii,  Parian  marble 
is  found  in  great  profusion,  evincing  the  wealth  and  luxury  of  the  in- 
habitants. Few  cities  now  existing  in  Italy  could  furnish  so  many 
works  of  art,  and  such  strong  indications  of  taste  and  splendour,  as 
have  here  already  been  discovered  in  a  Provincial  town,  justifying  ful- 
ly my  remarks  on  the  articles  in  the  Museum  at  Naples. 

From  the  theatres  we  strolled  through  the  Forum  Nundinarium,  or 
Market-place,  which  is  a  large  square,  surrounded  by  colonnades  of 
Doric  pillars,  with  a  copious  fountain  in  the  centre,  and  at  present 
shaded  with  weeping-willows.  The  columns  are  covered  with  stucco, 
and  exhibit  traces  of  etchings  and  initials  cut  by  ancient  idlers,  while 
lounging  in  the  Forum  thinking  of  nothing,  or  using  the  penknife 
during  a  conversation  with  an  acquaintance.  Ranges  of  boutiques  ex- 
lend  round  the  Market,  in  which  sundry  domestic  utensils  were  found, 
and  also  skeletons  in  the  stocks,  in  what  was  supposed  to  be  the  guard- 
house. As  this  place  furnished  all  the  conveniences  for  dining,  except 
the  trifling  article  of  food,  and  the  exercise  of  the  morning  had  created 
an  appetite  for  any  fare  however  coarse,  we  directed  the  cicerone  to  | 
bring  out  the  best,  which  his  humble  habitation  afforded.  His  wife, 
the  only  female  resident  within  the  walls  of  the  ancient  city,  made  her 
appearance,  and  spread  an  antique  table  of  Parian  marble  dug  from 
the  ruins,  beneath  the  shade  of  one  of  the  weeping-willows,  rendered 
cooler  by  the  playing  of  the  fountain.  Our  round  Grecian  slab,  sup- 
ported by  a  beautiful  fluted  pedestal,  was  crowned  with  more  than 
attic  simplicity.  The  black-eyed  Calabrian  hostess  produced  two 
sorts  of  bread — one  made  of  Indian  corn,  but  very  far  inferior  to  that 
which  Yankee  housewives  know  how  to  knead  from  the  same  mate- 
rial. Neither  milk  nor  butter — fish,  flesh,  nor  fowl  was  to  be  had.  A 
boiled  egg,  to  be  eaten  as  it  might  without  a  spoon,  and  a  glass  of  red 
wine,  made  from  the  grape  which  springs  from  the  ashes  of  Pompeii, 
concluded  the  slender  bill  of  fare.  But  the  frugal  repast  was  more 
highly  relished,  than  probably  are  in  most  cases  the  banquets  of  kings. 
Imagination  reverted  to  the  period,  when  perhaps  a  circle  of  Grecian 

■■•OT..  TI.  35 


274         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE, 

wit  and  beauty  surrounded  the  same  table,  quaffing  Falernian  cups,  ami 
warbling  in  Lydian  measures  the  love-songs  of  Sappho  and  Anacreon. 

After  dinner,  which  did  not  require  a  long  sitting,  we  visited  the 
temple  of  Hercules,  standing  upon  an  eminence  that  overlooks  the  Fo- 
rum. The  ruins  are  massive  and  highly  interesting.  Triangular  co- 
lonnades surrounded  the  edifice,  and  a  magnificent  porch  rose  in  front. 
The  platform,  ninety  feet  in  length  and  sixty  in  breadth,  elevated  three 
steps  from  the  ground,  is  still  entire.  Fragments  of  gigantic  columns 
strew  the  area.  They  are  of  the  old  Doric  order,  without  bases,  and 
resembling  those  of  Pa^stum.  This  temple  is  believed  to  belong  to  a 
period  long  anterior  to  the  rest  of  Pompeii.  There  were  three  altars, 
for  the  sacrifice  of  victims,  one  of  which  was  small,  designed  merely  to 
hold  the  sacred  fire.  Near  by  stood  the  receptacle  for  the  consecrated 
ashes.  At  one  end  of  the  shrine,  is  a  semicircular  bench  in  the  form 
of  a  sofa,  and  in  the  vicinity,  a  burying-ground,  supposed  to  be  the  ce- 
metery of  the  priests,  who  officiated  at  the  altars. 

Entering  the  Appian  Way,  which  ran  through  the  whole  length  of 
the  town  and  formed  the  principal  street,  we  found  the  buildings  if  pos- 
sible in  a  more  perfect  state  of  preservation,  than  those  that  have  al- 
ready been  described.  If  a  stranger  could  be  set  down  blindfold,  and 
the  bandage  removed,  he  would  scarcely  know  but  he  was  in  a  modern 
Italian  town,  which  had  just  been  deserted,  or  whose  inhabitants  were 
taking  a  siesta  after  dinner.  The  names  of  persons,  written  in  red 
paint,  are  seen  over  the  shop  doors,  and  the  designations  of  cross 
streets,  on  the  corners,  as  at  the  present  day.  In  a  word,  if  the  furni- 
ture which  is  now  in  the  museum  at  Naples,  had  been  left  in  situ  as  it 
was  here  found,  a  new  set  of  inhabitants  might  have  gone  to  house- 
keeping, with  very  few  repairs,  and  at  very  little  expense.  The 
silence  and  solitude  which  reign  along  the  streets  are  almost  terrific, 
reminding  the  visitant  that  he  is  traversing  the  city  of  the  dead,  whose 
spirits  start  up  to  meet  him  at  every  step. 

Among  the  public  edifices  which  we  visited,  are  the  temples  of 
^sculapius  and  of  Isis.  The  former  is  a  mere  cell,  and  the  most 
useful  of  all  the  gods,  if  he  was  not  a  quack  in  his  profession,  was 
honoured  with  a  very  humble  shrine.  A  low  altar  rises  in  the  centre 
of  the  fane,  on  which  the  convalescent  patient  probably  used  to  burn 
incense  to  the  healing  divinity.  His  statue  and  that  of  his  attendant 
goddess  Hygeia,  were  found  among  the  rubbish.  The  temple  of  Isis 
is  upon  a  much  larger  scale.  It  was  about  sixty  feet  square,  of  the 
Doric  order,  built  of  brick,  and  covered  with  stucco.  The  pavement 
is  splendid  mosaic,  and  the  sanctum  sanctorum,  whence  oracles  issued, 
rises  on  half  a  dozen  lofty  steps  ornamented  with  Parian  marble. 


I.ETTERS  FROM  EUROPE  275 

A  statue  of  the  froddcss  suimounlod  the  higli  altar.  The  secret  stairs 
up  which  the  priests  ascended,  behind  tlie  curtain,  to  give  responses  to 
worshippers,  are  still  seen.  A  more  gross  and  bungling  attempt  at  impo- 
sition cannot  well  be  imagined,  proving  that  with  the  Egyptian  religion, 
Eg3'ptian  credulity,  which  could  bend  to  cats,  crocodiles,  and  onions, 
must  also  have  been  imported.  Below  the  shrine,  are  the  altars  on  which 
the  burnt-oflerings  were  made,  the  reservoir  in  which  their  aslnjfs  were 
preserved  ;  and  here  laver.s  for  purification  were  found.  In  fact,  the  whole 
apparatus  for  performing  the  mystic  and  superstitious  rites  is  nearly 
complete.  The  worship  of  Isis  seems  to  have  been  just  coming  into 
fashion  in  Italy,  at  the  commencement  of  the  Christian  era,  and  in  the 
succeeding  ages,  it  acquired  new  eclat  from  becoming  the  religion  of 
the  emperors.  It  appears  to  have  been  introduced  by  a  connexioa 
with  Egypt  in  commerce.  It  was  evidently  in  vogue  to  the  last  fatal 
day  of  Pompeii ;  for  the  skeletons  of  priests  have  been  found  in  the 
refectory  and  other  apartments  of  the  temple,  where  they  were  over- 
whelmed by  the  tempest  of  fire,  while  clinging  to  the  post  of  duty,  or 
lost  in  sensual  enjoyments.  Tlie  fragments  of  the  very  banquet  at 
which  they  were  seated,  when  the  awful  moment  of  destruction  arri- 
ved, were  discovered  in  disinterring  the  temple,  and  are  seen  in  the 
collection  of  curiosities  already  described. 

Round  the  Forum  Civile,  a  spacious  public  square,  and  apparently 
the  centre  of  the  town,  rose  other  edifices  of  no  ordinary  magnificence. 
Among  these  is  the  splendid  dwelling  house  disinterred  under  the 
direction  of  the  French  General  Championet,  and  which  has  very 
justly  taken  his  name.  It  contains  numerous  apartments,  small  but 
remarkably  neat,  in  a  perfect  state  of  preservation,  displaying  frescos 
and  other  ornaments  in  all  their  original  freshness.  Several  skeletons 
of  females,  with  rings  upon  their  fingers,  were  found  in  this  mansion. 
It  appears  to  have  been  the  seat  of  wealth  and  luxury.  The  remains 
of  baths  and  alcoves  are  found  in  the  gardens. 

On  the  western  side  of  the  Forum  stood  the  Basilica,  or  Court  of  Jus- 
tice— a  colossal  building,  two  hundred  feet  in  length,  and  seventy  or 
eighty  in  breadth,  adorned  with  Corinthian  columns.  The  tribunal  or 
bench  for  the  judges  is  elevated  by  several  steps  above  the  pavement 
at  one  end,  and  directly  under  it  is  a  cell,  supposed  to  have  been  a 
prison,  with  apertures  in  the  ceiling  through  which  criminals  received 
their  sentences.  Another  court,  or  more  properly  a  municipal  Senate- 
house,  is  situated  near  the  temple  of  Isis.  The  rostrum,  ascended  by 
a  flight  of  steps,  is  yet  standing.  Contiguous  to  the  Basilica  are  the 
temples  of  Jupiter  and  Venus,  the  mosaic  pavements  and  paintings  of 
which  furnish  proofs  of  their  former  splendour.     We  climbed  to  th(^ 


•276  LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE. 

top  of  the  ibirner,  now  mantled  with  foliage,  and  took  a  view  of  the 
deserted  city.  The  Pantheon  and  the  fane  of  Mercury  border  the 
other  side  of  the  Forum.  They  have  just  been  opened,  and  the  colours 
of  their  frescos  are  more  vivid  than  those  that  have  been  longer  exposed 
to  the  action  of  the  air.  Immense  quantities  of  statues  and  other 
ornaments  have  been  dug  up  and  deposited  under  lock  and  key  in  the 
courts. 

In  the  region  of  the  Forum,  the  excavations  are  now  in  progress. 
About  one  hundred  men  are  employed,  under  the  superintendence  of  an 
agent  of  the  Neapolitan  government.  The  bank  which  they  are  dig- 
ging down  and  carting  without  the  walls,  is  eighteen  or  twenty  feet 
in  height,  and  so  loose  as  almost  to  slide  of  itself.  One  old  man 
among  the  labourers  particularly  arrested  our  attention.  He  had  a 
hoary  beard,  and  a  black,  piercing  eye.  His  naked  arms,  and  legs  below 
his  kilts,  were  of  as  deep  a  bronze,  as  the  most  tawny  of  the  American 
Indians.  As  he  stood  knee-deep  in  cinders  and  ashes,  using  his  spade 
in  opening  the  grave  of  the  city,  he  sang  aloud  a  merry  song,  the  notes 
of  which  expired  in  echoes  along  the  deserted  streets  and  through 
unpeopled  houses.  It  is  indeed  a  most  melancholy  sight  to  watcii 
these  labours — to  see  columns,  statues,  and  the  walls  of  buildings  just 
coming  into  view,  and  gradually  deveio|)ed  by  the  workmen  with  as 
much  indifference,  as  they  would  manifest  in  digging  out  a  stump  or  a 
stone.  We  here  examined  apartments,  which  had  been  unburied  on 
the  day  of  our  visit.  The  paintings  were  slightly  moistened,  and 
appeared  as  bright  as  when  they  received  the  last  touches  of  the  pencil. 
Among  the  most  recent  discoveries,  is  a  large  woollen  manufactory. 
The  whole  establishment,  even  to  the  sign,  is  entire.  But  time  would 
fail  me  to  enter  into  particulars.  The  progress  of  excavation  is  slow, 
compared  \vith  what  it  was  under  the  French,  who  have  done  more 
towards  disclosing  the  remains  of  Pompeii  and  the  ruins  scattered 
over  Italy,  than  all  others  put  together.  Had  Napoleon  maintained 
liis  ascendency,  and  made  Rome  the  capiitul  of  the  kingdom,  kw  anti- 
quities would  now  have  remained  to  be  explored.  But  he  preferred 
to  play  the  madman  in  his  boundless  ambition,  and  to  aim  at  new  con- 
quests instead  of  securing  those  he  had  already  made.  Tlie  impulse 
which  his  energy  of  character  gave  to  the  spirit  of  research  and  im- 
provement in  Italy,  has  in  a  great  measure  been  spent,  and  the  present 
inhabitants  content  themselves  with  revelling  amidst  the  ruins  of  their 
country,  without  pushing  vigorously  their  investigations  into  the  impe- 
rial monuments  of  their  ancestors. 

Returning  towards  the  Appian  Way,  we  visited  the  bouses  of  Sal- 
last,  the  historian,  and  of  Pansa,  the  last  of  the  Roman  Consuls,  be- 


LETrf:ilS  FROIM  EUROPE.  ^27  7 

ibro  tlic  usurpation  of  the  Caesars,  who  reduced  the  office  to  a  shadow. 
Both  of  these  wealthy  and  distinguished  citizens  had  splendid  man- 
sions, to  which  they  probably  used  to  resort  as  winter  residences. 
Traces  of  the  Trichnium  and  banqueting  rooms,  of  sumptuous  baths 
lined  with  Parian  marble,  of  mosaic  pavements,  and  other  luxuries, 
present  vivid  images  of  taste  and  splendour.  In  our  walk  along  the 
street  towards  the  northern  gate,  sundry  indications  of  the  gross  vice 
and  sensuality  of  the  Pompeiians,  alluded  to  in  my  remarks  on  one  of  the 
apartments  in  the  Museum  at  Naples,  were  pointed  out  by  the  cicerone. 
Signs  of  the  most  obscene  descriptions  were  openly  paraded  over  the 
doors  of  the  houses,  on  the  main  avenue  leading  through  the  city. 
Others  of  a  more  delicate  but  doubtful  character  are  seen.  On  one 
threshold  the  word  '■'■salve'" — which  may  be  translated,  '■'■walk  in"' — is 
inscribed.  Some  writers  have  oddly  enough  conjectured,  that  the 
house  belonged  to  the  Vestal  Virgins,  who  were  as  repulsive  as  modern 
nuns.  Others  more  rationally  believe,  that  it  was  the  office  of  a  scribe, 
and  that  the  welcome  was  addressed  to  his  clients.  In  the  same 
*]uarter  a  cofiee-house,  or  more  properly  a  tippling-shop,  is  shown, 
with  rings  of  the  wet  glasses  upon  the  counter.  Here  also  are  oil 
.stores,  where  large  jars  were  found  standing  in  holes  or  matrices,  just 
as  they  were  left.  A  bottle  in  the  Studii  at  Naples  is  filled  with  a 
liquid,  which  was  found  corked  among  these  ruins. 

At  the'Herculaneum  or  northern  gale,  the  u'alls  were  examined  to 
llie  best  advantage.  They  are  lofty  and  substantial,  but  rather  rude  in 
construction,  built  probably  to  guard  against  earthquakes,  as  were  the 
houses  of  the  city,  which  were  generally  of  one  or  two  stories.  The 
gate  itself,  which  spans  the  Appian  Way,  and  seems  to  have  been  the 
principal  of  the  four  entrances,  is  a  stately  arch  with  two  side-paths  for 
pedestrians.  Beyond  it,  a  faubourg  extends  for  some  distance  towards 
Naples,  lined  with  taverns  and  other  accommodations  for  travellers, 
Avho  arrived  too  late  to  enter  the  town  at  night.  A  circular  seat  de- 
signed as  a  resting  place  is  seen  by  the  way-side,  near  which  the  skele- 
ton of  a  ferale  and  a  child  were  discovered,  supposed  to  be  a  mother 
who  liere  sat  down  with  her  babe,  and  was  overtaken  by  the  storm. 
Here  also  was  the  cemetery  of  the  city.  The  remains  of  many  tombs 
rise  along  the  road.  Some  of  them  exhibit  beautiful  specimens  of 
sculpture.  In  one,  the  urns  containing  the  ashes  of  the  dead  are  left 
precisely  as  they  were  discovered.  We  caught  a  glimpse  of  the  un- 
known dust  through  the  grate,  by  which  it  is  guarded  from  intrusion. 
The  Tomb  of  the  Gladiators  is  similar  in  construction  to  the  Mauso- 
leum of  Cicero  near  Mola  di  Gaeta.  A  column  rises  in  the  centre, 
with  niches,  technically  denominated  colmnharia  or  pigeon  holes,  for 


278        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

holding  cinerary  urns.  In  the  vicinity  stood  a  building,  used  as  a  sort 
of  refectory  for  supplying  refreshments  to  persons  engaged  in  burying 
Vhe  dead.  A  country-seat  without  the  gate  is  ascribed  to  Cicero  ;  but 
its  character  seems  to  be  httle  known,  and  the  conjecture  rests  on  slen- 
der authority. 

Our  tour  of  observation  ended  where  that  of  others  generally  begins 
— with  the  Villa  of  Diomede,  standing  upon  an  eminence  close  to  the 
Appian  Way,  and  affording  a  magnificent  view  of  the  shores  of  the  bay 
of  Naples.  It  is  perhaps  the  most  perfect  of  all  the  ruins,  if  indeed  any 
thing  can  produce  more  vivid  impressions,  than  the  objects  already  de- 
scribed. From  its  elevation  and  prominence,  it  accidentally  led  to  the 
discovery  of  the  buried  city,  by  peasants  at  work  in  a  vineyard,  about 
the  middle  of  the  last  century.  The  house  is  two  stories  high,  fitted 
up  with  all  the  splendour,  which  taste  and  luxury  could  devise.  Mar- 
cus Arius  Diomedes,  the  proprietor,  seems  to  have  been  a  man  of 
great  wealth,  and  sumptuous  in  his  style  of  living.  He  had  a  splendid 
tomb  on  the  other  side  of  the  way,  which  his  ashes  never  reached  ;  for 
his  skeleton  was  found  exhibiting  his  ruling  passion  strong  in  death — in 
his  wine  cellar,  with  his  keys  in  one  hand  and  his  gold  in  the  other.  His 
servant  was  behind  him,  laden  with  splendid  plate.  Seventeen  other 
skeletons,  one  of  whom  seems  to  have  been  the  mistress  of  the  Villa, 
were  discovered  in  the  same  gloomy,  subterranean  arches,  in  the  gar- 
dens of  the  mansion  whither  they  had  fled  for  shelter  from  the  fiery 
tempest,  and  where  they  all  perished.  Long  ranges  of  amphora?,  for 
containing  a  stock  probably  of  the  choicest  wines,  are  yet  standing 
along  the  walls  of  the  arcades. 

Such  is  a  very  imperfect  sketch  of  Pompeii  and  of  some  of  the  most 
prominent  antiquities  it  contains.  Although  I  have  entered  more  into 
detail,  than  some  of  my  readers  will  probably  wish  ;  yet  a  small  part  only 
of  the  interesting  ruins  have  been  described.  A  volume  might  be 
written  without  exhausting  the  subject,  or  without  being  able  to  con- 
vey an  adequate  idea  of  the  vivid  and  impressive  picture,  which  the  re- 
ality presents.  So  intensely  are  the  feelings  engaged,  that  the  visitant 
does  not  dream  of  fatigue  till  the  examination  closes,  although  he  is 
necessarily  kept  upon  his  feet  during  a  long  day,  to  enable  him  to  catch 
a  glance  at  such  a  multiplicity  of  objects. 


LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE,         '^79 

LETTER  LXVIII. 

KXCIRSION    TO    PXSTUM VALE  OF  THE    SARNO — ^OCERA LA    CAVA 

BAY  AND  TOWN  OF  SALERNO EBOLI SKETCH  OF  THE  RUINS  OF  P^ES- 

TUM. 

May,  1826. 

Ot'R  excursion  to  the  ruins  of  Papstum,  fifty-four  miles  south  of  Naples, 
occupied  three  days,  which  were  among  the  most  pleasant  I  have  pass- 
ed in  Europe.  The  American  Charg^  des  Affaires  and  our  old  me- 
dical friend  accompanied  us,  contributing  largely  to  the  pleasures  of 
the  jaunt.  We  left  Naples  at  an  early  hour  in  the  morning.  The 
road  as  far  as  Pompeii  has  already  been  described.  A  few  miles  be- 
yond the  walls  of  the  ancient  city,  it  crosses  the  Sarno,  a  large  and 
romantic  stream,  which  falls  into  the  bay  near  Castellamare.  At  its 
mouth  stood  the  ancient  Stabite,  where  tiie  elder  Pliny  landed  in  his 
excursion  from  Cape  Misenus,  and  fell  a  martyr  to  his  philosophical 
curiosity,  during  the  same  eruption  which  overwhelmed  Pompeii.  The 
vale  watered  by  the  Sarno  is  one  of  the  most  rural,  fertile,  and  deli- 
cious imaginable.  Its  broad  alluvial  borders  are  richly  covered  witli 
vines,  flax,  hemp,  corn,  grain,  and  vegetables  of  various  kinds.  Or- 
chards like  those  of  the  United  States  border  the  road.  The  country 
was  all  in  bloom,  and  the  flowery  plains  exhibited  a  gaiety  of  landscape, 
which  can  hardly  be  conceived  in  less  sunny  climes.  But  the  inhabit- 
ants are  miserable,  and  know  not  how  to  appreciate  or  improve  the 
munificence  of  nature.  We  actually  saw  females  harnessed  like  cat- 
tle to  the  plough,  and  dragging  it  through  the  light  soil,  while  a  man 
was  lounging  in  the  furrow,  guiding  the  share  !  Woman,  poor  wo- 
man, is  here  emphatically  degraded  into  the  servant  of  servants,  and  it 
makes  the  heart  bleed  to  witness  the  burdens  she  is  often  compelled 
to  bear.  There  is  no  afllectation  nor  sentimentality  in  this.  It  is 
plain,  downright  matter  of  fact,  which  stares  the  traveller  in  the  face, 
at  every  step  of  his  progress  through  Italy. 

The  general  features  of  the  district  between  the  vale  of  the  Sarno 
and  the  bay  of  Salerno,  may  be  given  in  few  words.  It  is  a  deep  and 
romantic  pass  through  the  Apennines.  The  hills  on  either  hand  arc 
lofty,  broken,  and  picturesque  ;  in  many  places  beautifully  wooded, 
and  in  others,  the  heights  are  crowned  with  villages  and  solitary  con- 
vents, old  fortresses,  and  towers,  which  sometimes  appear  almost  be- 
yond the  reach  of  human  footsteps.  On  the  right,  the  mountains  ex- 
tend for  many  miles  towards  the  Mediterranean,  terminating  in  the 


iiSU  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

lofty  cape  of  Sorrento,  dividing  the  bay  of  Naples  from  that  of  Salerno., 
to  the  south.  Several  large  towns  occupy  this  gorge  in  the  hills.  No- 
cera  has  many  churches.  We  were  detained  half  an  hour  in  its  streets, 
to  permit  a  long  religious  procession  of  both  sexes  to  pass.  They 
were  all  in  white  masks,  with  red  stockings,  and  the  usual  badges  of 
ecclesiastics.  The  choral  chant  from  so  many  voices  fairly  produced 
an  echo  among  the  hills.  La  Cava  is  another  populous  town,  with 
many  handsome  buildings.  The  main  street  is  bordered  on  both  sides 
by  arcades,  serving  the  double  purpose  of  sheltering  the  inhabitants 
from  the  rain  and  sun.  It  contains  many  churches  and  convents. 
Some  of  the  latter  are  occupied  as  extensive  schools,  for  the  educa- 
tion of  females,  who  in  Italy  pass  the  first  sixteen  or  eighteen  years  of 
their  lives  in  retirement,  without  mingling  at  all  with  the  world. 

Between  La  Cava  and  the  village  of  Vietri,  an  old  aqueduct  and 
bridge,  stretching  across  a  deep  ravine  on  the  right  of  the  road,  form 
a  massive  and  highly  picturesque  ruin.  Indeed,  few  regions  can  pre- 
sent greater  variety  and  richness  of  scenery,  than  this  unfrequented 
part  of  Italy.  The  traveller  would  be  compensated  for  an  excursion 
to  Paestum,  were  it  only  for  the  sake  of  the  views  along  the  way.  At 
1  or  2  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  we  emerged  suddenly  from  the  defile 
in  the  mountains,  and  the  Bay  of  Salerno  spread  full  before  us  in  all 
its  glory,  slumbering  beneath  skies  as  pure  and  brilliant  as  its  own 
waters.  It  extends  from  the  Cape  of  Sorrento  to  Paestum,  a  distance 
of  perhaps  forty  miles  in  a  right  line.  Between  these  two  points,  it 
sweeps  inland  with  a  bold  uniform  curve,  forming  a  gulf  nearly  twice 
the  size  of  that  of  Naples,  and  not  inferior  to  it  in  beauty.  The 
mountains  on  its  borders  are  decidedly  superior  ;  and  nothing  can  be 
more  romantic  than  its  comparatively  solitary  shores,  exhibiting  here 
and  there  a  village  upon  the  rocks,  and  washed  by  the  brightest  waves 
I  ever  beheld. 

On  the  right  of  the  pass,  as  it  opens  upon  the  sea,  a  cluster  of  build- 
ings hang  upon  the  cliffs  ;  and  still  higher  up  a  convent  is  perched 
upon  the  very  apex.  If  any  earthly  consideration  could  tempt  a  man 
to  turn  monk,  it  would  be  such  a  retirement  as  this,  where  nature 
presents  her  brightest  elements  in  the  happiest  combinations.  The 
late  King  of  Naples  had  the  good  taste  to  build  him  a  neat  lodge,  be- 
tween the  outlet  of  the  defile  and  Salerno  ;  but  the  present  monarch 
prefers  the  lava  beds  of  Portici.  An  excellent  road,  a  sort  of  royal 
corso,  extends  along  the  shore,  built  the  greater  part  of  the  way  on 
terraces.  The  town  of  Salerno  stands  upon  the  beach,  with  a  small 
port  spreading  in  front,  and  high  broken  hills  in  the  rear.  It  has  a 
population  of  15,000,  but  little  trade,  and  is  said  to  be  very  unhealthy 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  i281 

jn  summer.  The  streets  were  full  of  importunate  and  clamorous 
beggars.  An  excellent  dinner,  consisting  among  other  things  of  two 
kinds  of  delicate  fish  from  the  bay,  green  i)eas,  oranges,  and  wine  of 
a  pecuhar  flavour,  was  provided  for  us  at  the  hotel,  the  balcony  of 
which  commands  an  enchanting  view.  A  visit  was  paid  to  the  Ca- 
thedral, for  the  purpose  of  examining  columns  and  other  antiquities 
from  Pa?stum,  deposited  in  the  court.  They  present  nothing  particu- 
larly worthy  of  notice.  Numerous  sarcophagi  were  observed,  orna- 
mented with  bas-relief,  and  inscribed  with  epitaphs  in  the  Saxon 
character.  They  are  evidently  of  the  middle  ages,  when  the  Normans 
overran  this  country,  and  Salerno  was  a  town  of  importance.  It  was 
at  that  period  the  seat  of  science,  literature,  and  the  arts.  Its  medical 
school  was  the  most  celebrated  in  Europe.  From  the  door  of  the 
church,  there  is  a  charming  view  of  a  high  broken  rock  back  of  the 
town,  surmounted  by  the  ruins  of  an  extensive  fortress. 

At  3  o'clock  we  renewed  our  journey  towards  Pjestum,  crossing  a 
wide  alluvial  plain,  bordered  on  one  side  by  the  chain  of  Apennines, 
rising  in  rugged,  fantastic  peaks,  and  on  the  other,  by  the  sea.  Seve- 
ral pretty  streams  water  the  plain.  This  is  the  country  of  Salvator 
Rosa,  and  his  pencil  never  sketched  any  thing  half  so  picturesque  as 
its  natural  scenery.  Some  of  his  peasantry  were  seen  in  the  fields  by 
the  side  of  the  road,  with  their  swarthy  Calabrian  faces,  sunburnt 
limbs,  short  white  kilts,  and  pyramidal  hats.  So  far  as  our  observa- 
tion goes,  they  are  gentle  and  inoffensive  in  their  manners,  though 
they  have  acquired  notoriety  for  their  indolent  habits,  vices,  and 
crimes.  Several  of  the  threshing  floors,  such  as  are  described  by 
Homer,  attracted  our  attention.  They  consist  of  smooth  hard  areas, 
in  the  open  field.  Cattlq  are  driven  round  on  them  to  tread  out  the 
grain. 

We  reached  the  little  village  of  Eboli,  sixteen  miles  from  Salerno 
and  forty-three  from  Naples,  at  6  o'clock  in  the  evening,  and  took 
lodgings  for  the  night  in  an  old  convent,  now  converted  into  a  hospice 
for  travellers.  Its  accommodations  are  wretched  enough  ;  dirty  and 
dangerous  ;  without  conveniences  or  comforts.  Its  present  master  is 
said  to  have  been  eighteen  years  at  the  head  of  a  band  of  robbers,  in 
which  time  he  was  engaged  in  fifty  murders.  lie  is  accused  of  having  ^^  ^ 
been  accessory  to  the  death  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hunt,  a  year  or  two 
since,  between  this  place  and  Passtum.  To  our  inquiries  whether 
there  was  at  present  any  danger  upon  the  road,  he  replied — "  No, 
thank  God,  those  days  are  gone  by."  He  is  a  stout,  broad-shouldered, 
athletic  man,  with  nothing  of  the  bandit  in  his  face  or  manner.  Al- 
though the  chambers  arc  destitute  of  furniture,  save  a  miserable  bed, 

VOL.  II.  36 


'2S2  LETTEJIS  FROM  EUROPE. 

I  saw  in  one  of  them  an  image  of  the  Virgin,  seated  in  a  little  shrme 
with  blue  silk  curtains,  and  a  tiny  lamp  always  kept  burning  before 
her.  The  chambermaid  informed  me,  that  this  tutelary  doll  of  the 
family  cost  thirty  dollars,  and  was  reckoned  a  good  bargain.  It  is  the 
only  species  of  luxury  in  the  house. 

'^'  As  we  arrived  at  Eboli  an  hour  before  sunset,  time  was  afforded  for 
a  charming  walk  to  the  village,  at  the  distance  of  half  a  mile  or  more 
from  our  lodgings.  The  streets,  houses,  and  inhabitants  are  in  per- 
fect contrast  with  the  splendour  of  the  skies  and  the  luxuriant  charms 
of  the  country.  While  the  latter  are  as  beautiful  as  nature  can  be- 
stow, the  former  are  as  mean,  dirty,  and  repulsive  as  ignorance,  po- 
verty, superstition,  and  vice  can  render  them.  Two  or  three  rosy- 
faced  priests,  lingering  at  the  door  of  a  tippling-shop,  stared  at  us  as 
intently  as  if  we  had  come  to  take  possession  of  the  village  and  route 
_^them  from  their  stalls.  A  hill  back  of  the  town  affords  a  delightful 
view  of  the  broad  plain,  stretching  from  the  base  of  the  mountains  to 
the  sea.  The  rocks  around  us  were  crowned  with  convents,  and 
shaded  with  hanging  woods.  On  the  brow  of  this  hill  is  an  extensive 
garden.  The  keeper  threw  open  the  gate,  and  invited  us  to  stroll  in 
its  alleys,  plucking  for  each  of  the  party  a  cluster  of  roses.     We  lin- 

^  gered  here  till  the  sun  had  gone  down,  and  twilight  began  to  fade. 
The  softest  and  the  richest  skies  I  have  ever  witnessed  were  beheld  from 
the  heights  of  Eboli.  Claude  Lorrain,  with  all  the  magic  of  his  pencil, 
never  produced  tints  so  exquisitely  delicate  and  beautiful,  as  the  blushes 
of  the  west  and  the  purple  Ught  of  the  firmament  on  this  evening. 

In  returning  to  our  lodgings,  we  met  groups  of  the  peasantry,  loi- 
tering from  the  fields  to  their  dirty  homes,  with  rural  implements  upon 
their  shoulders,  and  carolling  with  light  hearts,  notwithstanding  their 
poverty.  A  scene  entirely  new  to  us  all  afforded  not  a  little  amuse- 
ment. It  was  a  goatherd  milking  his  flock  and  penning  them  for  the 
night.  The  animals  knew  their  keeper,  and  walked  up  to  him  one 
after  another,  to  have  their  udders  drained,  and  then  marched  into  the 
fold  without  bidding.  Not  one  offered  to  go,  before  the  process  of 
milking  was  completed.  The  flock  seemed  quite  as  intelligent  as  the 
shepherd.  A  group  of  poor  villagers  stood  round  with  their  little 
mugs,  ready  to  purchase  the  milk  at  a  penny  a  pint.  Such  is  a  rural 
scene  in  Calabria.  How  different  from  the  extensive  farm-yards,  the 
fifty  cows,  the  rosy-cheeked  lasses,  and  the  foaming  pails  of  our  own 
country ! 

Early  next  morning  we  left  Eboli  and  pursued  our  journey  towards 
Psestum,  which  is  eleven  miles  beyond  that  village.  The  traveller 
here  deserts  the  great  road,  leading  to  the  straits  of  Messina,  and  en- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  283 

ters  ftn  unfrequented  path  to  the  rio^ht,  crossing  a  broad,  solitary  plain, 
which  bears  a  striking  resemblance  to  the  Campagna  di  Roma.  There 
is  scarcely  a  house  in  the  whole  distance,  and  the  very  silence  of  the 
waste,  independent  of  its  having  been  the  haunt  of  banditti,  is  almost 
terrific.  A  fox  which  crossed  the  way  a  few  rods  before  us,  was  the 
only  living  creature  seen  for  six  or  eight  miles.  The  greater  part  of 
this  desolate  track  belongs  to  the  hunting-grounds  of  the  king,  who 
has  a  lodge,  called  Persano,  in  t;ight  of  the  road.  To  the  left  rises 
Mount  Alburnus,  a  bold,  rugged  hill,  with  its  rocky  acclivities  slightly 
shaded  with  woods,  and  its  top  still  white  with  snow  !  This  phenome- 
non perfectly  astonished  us  in  a  Calabrian  climate,  at  a  season  when 
the  weather  was  as  warm  as  it  is  with  us  in  the  summer.  The  plain 
is  watered  by  the  Silaro,  a  considerable  stream,  the  banks  of  which 
are  in  some  places  finely  wooded  with  ilex.  We  crossed  it  on  a  bridge 
built  by  Murat.  The  toll  for  our  fiacre  was  two  dollars !  Eustace 
says  that  "  herds  innunierable"  wander  through  the  recesses  of  Mount 
Alburnus,  the  Silaro,  and  the  Tanagro,  and  enliven  the  silence  of  the 
scene  by  perpetual  lowings.  But  he  seems  to  have  invented  and  in- 
troduced his  cattle,  for  the  purpose  of  stinging  them  classically  by 
Virgil's  gadfly.  At  any  rate,  there  are  now  neither  flocks  nor  herds 
in  these  dreary  solitudes. 

Notwithstanding  the  badness  of  the  road,  which  compelled  us  to 
walk  a  considerable  part  of  the  way,  we  reached  Paestum  at  8  o'clock, 
and  drove  through  a  breach  in  the  old  wall,  called  the  gate  of  Aurora, 
though  the  portals  have  long  since  been  levelled  to  the  dust.  A  squa- 
lid peasant  boy  met  us  at  the  entrance,  and  presented  a  cluster  of  the 
far-famed  roses,  which  bloom  twice  a  year,  in  May  and  December — at 
least  in  the  page  of  every  tourist,  from  Virgil  down  to  Mariana  Starke. 
The  site  of  the  ancient  town  is  so  low,  and  so  buried  in  the  foliage  of 
the  plain,  that  no  glimpses  of  it  arc  obtained  in  the  approach  ;  and 
the  three  great  ruins,  which  form  the  principal  objects  of  the  stranger's 
pilgrimage,  came  suddenly  into  view,  exciting  by  their  contiguity,  their 
dimensions,  their  complexion,  and  above  all  by  the  loneliness  of  their 
situation,  a  very  deep  and  strong  emotion.  With  them,  the  ordinary 
course  of  nature  seems  to  be  reversed,  and  the  eternal  monuments 
remain  nearly  entire,  while  the  nation  by  whom  they  were  erected  has 
vanished  from  the  face  of  the  earth,  and  its  records  have  been  swept 
into  oblivion.  Their  origin  and  history  have  become  mere  matter  of 
conjecture,  to  be  drawn  from  an  examination  of  their  construction, 
rather  than  from  any  external  evidence.  The  story  of  Paistum  itself 
may  be  told  in  few  words.  It  appears  to  have  been  originally  settled 
by  a  colony  of  Dorians,  who  were  subsequently  expelled  by  the  Syba- 


,>84  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

rites,  and  the  name  of  the  city  changed  to  that  of  Posidonia  or  Neptu- 
nia.  The  latter  was  in  turn  conquered  by  their  neighbours  the  Luca- 
nians,  and  these  by  the  Romans,  who  gave  to  the  town  its  present  ap- 
pellation. In  after  ages,  Paeslum  was  scourged  by  the  Saracens  and 
Normans,  who  left  tlie  three  great  temples  standing,  either  from  the 
difficulty  of  demolishing  them,  or  out  of  respect  to  their  venerable  an- 
tiquity, where  no  stronger  motive  prevailed.  Though  the  ruins  never 
could  have  been  concealed  or  entirely  unknown,  they  seem  to  have  at- 
tracted no  attention,  in  a  country  so  full  of  antiquities,  till  a  Neapoli- 
tan artist  brought  them  into  notice  about  the  middle  of  the  last  cen- 
tury. 

In  this  long  range  of  history,  reaching  back  three  or  four  thousand 
years,  and  divided  into  different  eras  by  the  conquests  of  half  a  dozen 
distinct  nations,  the  mind  is  left  free  to  ascribe  the  indestructible  monu- 
ments to  what  period  it  chooses.  The  subject  is  involved  in  so  much 
obscurity,  that  modern  poets,  even  to  some  of  our  own  countrymen,* 
have  seized  upon  it  as  a  fit  theme  for  the  embellishments  of  fancy, 
opening  a  field  in  which  the  imagination  may  range  unrestricted  by 
fact,  and  indulge  in  the  wildest  dreams  of  fiction,  without  contradict- 
ing probabilities.  But  my  business  is  neither  with  poetry,  nor  learned 
sjieculations.  I  am  not  sufficiently  versed  in  architecture  and  anti- 
quarian lore,  to  attempt  to  reduce  these  massive  structures  to  any  cer- 
tain period,  nor  have  I  enough  of  inspiration  to  add  to  the  poetical 
images,  with  which  they  have  been  associated  by  the  muses.  A  plain 
prosing  narrative  of  our  interesting  visit  will  be  despatched  in  as  brief 
a  manner  as  possible. 

The  three  temples  range  along  the  sohtary  plain  in  a  direct  line, 
within  the  distance  of  less  than  half  a  mile,  rendering  it  probable  that 
they  fronted  upon  the  principal  street,  of  which  no  traces  now  remain. 
They  are  designated  by  the  names  of  Ceres,  Neptune,  and  the  Basili- 
ca, standing  in  the  order  they  are  mentioned  from  north  to  south.  I 
know  of  no  evidence  either  internal  or  external,  which  might  lead  with 
certainty  to  these  appellations.  The  temple  of  Neptune  is  much  the 
largest,  and  to  this  our  steps  were  first  directed,  under  the  guidance 
of  a  local  cicerone.  It  is  in  the  shape  of  a  parallelogram,  two  hun- 
dred feet  in  length,  and  eighty  feet  in  breadth,  with  two  fronts,  one 
facing  the  east  and  tiie  other  the  west,  each  supported  by  six  massive 
columns.     On  either  side  are  twelve  pillars  of  the  same  dimensions, 


*  My  readers  probably  need  not  be  reminded  of  the  Poem  entitled  "  Paestum," 
from  the  pen  of  a  gentleman  of  Massachusetts. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        285 

making  thirty-six  in  all.  They  arc  twenty-seven  feet  in  height,  and 
twenty  feet  in  circiimferenre  at  the  hase,  tapering  towards  the  top,  flu- 
ted and  of  the  primitive  Doric  order,  giving  the  heavy  proportions  of 
only  five,  instead  of  the  usual  number  of  eight  or  nine,  diameters  to 
the  length.  Each  of  them  is  composed  of  half  a  dozen  separate 
blocks  of  stone,  so  accurately  adjusted,  that  the  junction  is  scarcely 
discernible.  They  have  no  bases,  but  the  shafts  aie  firudy  planted  upon 
a  substantial  platform,  raised  three  steps  from  the  ground.  Their  capi- 
tals are  all  entire,  ediinerted  by  doric  arcliitraves,  friezes,  and  cornices, 
running  quite  round  the  building.  After  examining  the  construction  of 
this  severe  but  beautiful  fabric,  one  feels  less  surprise  that  it  has  stood 
comparatively  unimpaired  for  so  many  ages,  amidst  natural  and  civil 
convulsions,  which  have  levelled  structures  of  lighter  and  more  ele-. 
gant  architecture.  It  is  supposed  to  be  the  oldest  edifice  now  in 
existence,  and  to  date  from  a  period  anterior  to  the  finished  models  of 
the  Grecian  orders. 

The  material  out  of  which  tho  temple  of  Neptune  is  built,  is  a  porous 
but  substantial  species  of  stone,  believed  to  be  petrifactions  from  the 
banks  of  the  Silaro.  Its  complexion  is  of  a  rich  orange  hue,  and  nothinw 
can  be  finer  than  the  aspect  of  the  ruin,  especially  when  softened  and 
harmonized  by  a  moderate  distance.  The  interior  contains  two  vesti- 
bules at  each  end,  whence  there  is  an  ascent  by  steps  to  what  is  tech- 
nically called  the  cella^  forming  an  oblong  platform  in  the  centre  of  the 
temple.  On  this  stand  colonnades  of  less  dimensions  than  the  exter- 
nal pillars,  but  of  the  same  order,  and  surmounted  by  a  massive  archi- 
trave, which  supports  another  range  of  small  columns.  A  few  of  the 
latter  are  missing — the  only  innovations  which  time  has  made  upon  the 
pillared  magnificence  of  this  fabric.  Traces  of  the  altars  on  which 
victims  were  offered  are  yet  visible.  The  summits  of  the  outer  porti- 
cos are  fancifully  shaded  by  wild  shrubbery  and  flowers  springing  from 
the  crevices  of  the  architrave,  and  hanging  their  blossoms  over  Gre- 
cian cornices.  At  the  hour  of  our  visit,  two  or  three  peasants  had 
ascended  to  the  battlements  on  ladders,  to  hunt  for  the  nests  of  jack- 
daws, swallows,  and  wrens,  that  build  in  the  ruin,  and  keep  up  a  con- 
stant chatterirrg.  One  little  incident  occurred,  which  formed  so  cu- 
rious a  coincidence,  and  was  in  such  perfect  keeping,  that  my  compa- 
nions were  specially  called  to  witness,  lest  a  narrative  of  it  might  be 
considered  a  fiction.  While  gazing  at  the  ruins,  we  observed  three 
snowy  bulls,  feeding  among  the  thistles  at  the  western  end.  One  of 
them,  as  the  sun  grew  warm,  deserted  his  pasture,  and  actually  climb- 
ed the  lofty  steps,  leading  to  the  porch  of  the  temple.  He  marched 
up  toward  the  very  altar,  on  which  so  many  of  his  ancestors  had  pro- 


2S6        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

bably  been  sacrificed  to  the  god  of  the  sea.  He  walked  deliberately 
over  the  platform,  and  we  left  him  lounging  in  the  shade  of  the  colossal 
pillars. 

The  edifice  denominated  the  Basilica  stands  a  few  rods  south  of  the 
temple  of  Neptune,  to  which  it  bears  a  strong  resemblance  in  its  gene- 
ral aspect.  It  is  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet  in  length  and  eighty  feet 
in  width,  raised  on  a  platform,  adorned  with  sixteen  fluted  columns  on 
either  side,  and  nine  on  each  front.  The  pillars  and  architraves  are 
precisely  of  the  same  character,  as  those  which  have  already  been  de- 
scribed, though  less  massive,  and  varying  slightly  in  complexion. 
There  is  not  the  shadow  of  a  doubt,  that  the  two  buildings  were  erect- 
ed by  the  same  people,  (probably  the  Dorians,)  and  in  the  same  age. 
The  absence  of  altars  and  of  a  cella  has  led  antiquaries  to  believe,  that 
this  edifice  was  a  Court  of  Justice.  A  range  of  columns,  three  of 
which  are  yet  standing,  extended  lengthwise  through  the  interior,  divi- 
ding it  into  equal  parts.  The  shafts  are  planted  upon  a  slight  elevation, 
which  is  supposed  to  have  been  the  seat  of  the  Judges. 

From  the  Basilica,  we  strolled  to  the  southern  gate  of  the  city,  near 
which  is  a  small  cottage  with  a  garden,  where  a  bed  of  PcBstan  roses 
was  seen  in  full  bloom.  The  poor  tenants  of  the  humble  and  dirty 
habitation  permitted  us  to  pluck  for  ourselves.  There  is  certainly  a 
peculiar  fragrance  in  this  flower,  and  the  blushes  of  its  crimson  petals, 
as  well  as  the  verdure  of  tlie  leaves,  appeared  unusually  brilliant,  in 
comparison  with  the  paler  hues  of  more  northern  climes.  We  made 
pets  of  the  buds,  and  nursed  them  with  the  most  assiduous  care.  The 
garden  is  watered  by  the  Solofone,  a  pretty  stream,  which  flows  under 
the  very  walls  of  the  town,  and  gurgles  among  the  ruins.  We  here 
ascended  the  raniparts,  and  followed  them  nearly  half  way  round  the 
city,  which  was  about  three  miles  in  circumference,  with  four  gates 
placed  at  right  angles,  corresponding  with  the  cardinal  points  of  the 
compass.  At  the  south-western  corner,  the  murmurs  of  the  sea  break- 
ing upon  the  solitary  beach  beneath  us,  at  the  distance  of  less  than  half 
a  mile,  were  distinctly  heard.  The  view  from  the  walls,  is  both  exten- 
sive and  splendid,  reaching  to  the  amphitheatre  of  mountains  beyond 
the  bay  of  Salerno,  to  the  north  and  east.  On  the  south,  the  high  hills 
of  Callimara,  Cantena,  and  Acropoli,  in  continuation  of  Mount  Albur- 
nus,  form  a  long  continuous  chain,  bearing  on  their  acclivities  a  few 
scattered  buildings,  and  terminating  in  the  bold,  desolate  promontory 
of  Leucosia.  To  the  west  spreads  the  boundless  sea,  rolling  in  azure 
brightness,  but  unenlivened  by  a  single  sail.  The  port,  which  tradi- 
tion says  Jason  and  Ulysses,  Hercules  and  Pyrrhus  once  visited,  has 
now  entirelv  vanished,  and  even  its  site  cannot  be  ascertained.     It  was 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         287 

probably  near  the  western  gate,  which  still  goes  by  the  name  of  Porta 
a  Marc. 

Traversing  the  walls  to  the  northern  gate,  we  examined  the  ancient 
tombs,  which  are  without  the  city.  Antiquaries  have  inferred  from 
their  construction,  that  the  people  to  whom  they  belonged,  were  of 
Chaldaic  origin.  They  consist  of  separate  cavities  in  the  earth,  of  the 
dimensions  and  depth  of  an  ordinary  grave,  walled  up  and  covered  with 
a  triangular  roof.  The  ruins  are  too  vague  to  afford  much  satisfaction 
to  the  mind.  Some  beautiful  relics  have  been  found  in  them.  Our 
ramble  was  extended  thence  to  the  eastern  gate,  which  is  nearly 
entire,  and  bears  the  name  of  the  Siren,  whose  image  was  once  seen 
upon  the  key-stone,  holding  in  her  hand  a  Passtan  rose.  The  arch 
is  fifty  feet  in  height,  without  side-paths.  Here  the  walls  are  examined 
to  the  best  advantage.  They  are  built  of  largo  blocks  of  stone,  rc- 
sembhng  the  ramparts  of  ancient  Faesuke,  and  leading  some  to  believe 
them  to  be  of  Etrurian  origin,  or  to  have  been  erected  by  a  kindred 
people.  They  were  originally  fifty  feet  high,  and  twenty  feet  wide  at 
top,  flanked  with  eight  massive  towers. 

After  examining  the  obscure  remains  of  the  theatre  and  amphitheatre, 
which  offer  nothing  worthy  of  notice,  we  repaired  to  the  temple  of 
Ceres,  and  there  finished  our  round  of  observations.  This  beautiful 
edifice  is  very  similar  in  construction  to  the  other  two,  which  have 
already  been  described.  The  order  of  architecture  is  the  same,  except 
that  its  proportions  are  lighter  and  more  elegant.  It  is  about  one  hun- 
dred feet  in  length,  and  fifty  in  breadth,  elevated  on  a  platform,  with 
two  fronts,  and  the  same  number  of  columns,  as  the  temple  of  Neptune. 
A  beautiful  entablature  extends  quite  round  the  building.  It  has  altars, 
and  a  cella.,  separated  from  the  vestibule  by  a  range  of  pillars.  By  an- 
other odd  coincidence,  fields  of  grain  almost  fit  for  the  sickle,  were 
now  waving  under  the  very  porticos  of  the  shrine  of  Ceres.  This 
circumstance  is  the  more  singular,  as  the  greater  part  of  the  space  en- 
closed by  the  walls  of  the  city  has  run  to  waste,  and  is  overgrown  by 
wild  bushes,  brambles,  and  thistles.  A  few  miserable  huts,  and  a 
handful  of  sickly,  wretched  inhabitants,  constitute  the  only  remains  of 
the  town.  The  maVaria  is  so  destructive  as  to  render  the  place  unin- 
habitable in  the  summer  months. 

Having  seen  under  the  most  favourable  circumstances  all  the  ob- 
jects of  interest,  which  Paestum  contains,  we  reclined  on  the  pave- 
ment, in  the  shade  of  the  porch  of  Ceres,  and  dined  on  coarse  bread 
and  wine,  the  only  articles  our  cicerone  could  cater  among  his  poor 
neighbours.  A  flow  of  soul  sweetened  the  humble  repast ;  and  scanty 
as  was  our  slock  of  provisions,  some  of  the  party  made  libations  to 


2S8        LETTERS  FKOM  EUROPE. 

the  goddess,  just  by  way  of  ieeing  whether  they  remembered  their 
classics.  After  dinner,  we  took  a  farewell  view  of  the  ruins,  and  at  1 
o'clock  set  out  for  home. 

Half  a  mile  from  the  gate  of  Aurora,  we  paused  a  moment  to  ex- 
amine the  spot,  near  a  large  fig-tree,  where  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hunt  were 
murdered,  on  their  return  from  a  visit  to  this  place.  The  cicerone 
who  conducted  us  over  the  ruins  of  Paestum,  was  several  months  in 
prison,  under  a  suspicion  of  being  concerned  in  the  robbery.  He  how- 
ever escaped.  A  raw-boned,  ragged  peasant  boy  informed  us,  that  he 
saw  the  murder,  and  was  called  as  a  witness.  The  banditti  were  be- 
hind the  bushes,  but  almost  within  call  of  the  town.  One  of  them 
stepped  out  and  demanded  Mr.  Hunt's  money.  He  began  to  parley, 
when  both  he  and  his  young  wife  received  mortal  wounds  from  a  mus- 
ket.    They  were  carried  to  Naples  and  buried  in  the  same  grave. 

At  7  o'clock  this  evening,  we  reached  Salerno  and  found  good  ac- 
commodations for  the  night.  Some  of  the  party  went  to  the  village 
play,  and  others  read  Horace.  The  luxurious  poet,  tired  of  the  hot 
springs  and  myrtle  groves,  the  gaiety  and  dissipation  of  Baise,  makes 
particular  inquiries  in  his  epistle  to  Caius  Numonius  Vala,  respecting 
the  advantages  and  comforts  of  a  residence  at  Salernum.  It  does  not 
appear,  that  he  ever  availed  himself  of  the  information  he  sought,  though 
the  region  is  far  more  attractive,  than  the  neighbourhood  of  his  Sabine 
farm.  If  the  Roman  town  furnished  as  good  accommodations  as  we 
found  in  the  modern,  Horace  would  have  found  all  the  dainties  he  re- 
quired, even  to  his  wine  : 

generosum  et  lene  requiro, 

Quod  curas  abigat. 

A  delicious  red  wine,  the  product  of  Calabrian  hills,  was  set  upon  our 
table,  and  gave  a  higher  rehsh  to  the  varieties  of  fish  from  the  neigh- 
bouring waters. 

On  the  following  morning,  an  excellent  breakfast  was  served  up  on 
the  balcony  of  the  Hotel,  fanned  by  the  breezes  of  the  sea,  and  in  view 
of  all  the  splendour  of  Calabrian  scenery.  One  of  our  quartette  was 
so  full  of  Psestum,  that  he  forgot  his  watch,  and  was  obliged  to  travel 
back  four  miles.  But  notwithstanding  this  slight  accident,  we  reached 
Naples  at  an  early  hour,  delighted  with  the  excursion. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        289 

LETTER  LXIX. 

UEPARTUEE    FROM    NAPLES VISIT    TO    CASERTA PALACE GARDEN 

AQUEDUCT RETURN  TO  MONT  ALBANO. 

June,  1826. 

Previous  to  our  departure  from  Naples,  we  came  to  the  determina- 
tion of  visiting  Greece,  by  the  way  of  Otranto  and  the  Ionian  Islands. 
The  plan  was  to  fall  in  if  possible  with  the  American  squadron  in  the 
Levant,  and  return  to  Italy  in  the  autumn.  Our  party  was  to  consist 
of  four — a  surgeon  in  the  United  States  Navy,  who  was  anxious  to 
reach  his  destination  ;  an  Englishman,  a  graduate  from  Oxford,  who 
had  been  a  Lieutenant  in  the  British  army,  and  was  one  of  the  few 
officers  of  his  regiment  who  survived  tiie  battle  of  Chippewa  ;  my 
fellow-traveller  and  myself.  This  enterprise  was  pushed  with  so  much 
enthusiasm,  that  one  whole  day  was  occupied  in  going  the  rounds  of 
tlie  Neapolitan  booksellers,  in  search  of  the  most  authentic  topo- 
graphical works  on  Greece,  and  I  sat  up  one  or  two  nights  in  reading 
Pausanias,  preparatory  to  our  departure,  and  began  to  dream  of  Par- 
nassus, Athens,  and  the  field  of  Marathon.  The  American  Charge 
did  all  in  his  power  to  favour  the  expedition,  and  very  liberally  pre- 
sented to  one  of  the  party  a  French  copy  of  the  Travels  of  Anacharsis. 

Having  our  arrangements  in  such  a  train,  that  tliey  could  be  com- 
pleted in  a  few  days,  we  went  to  the  coach-office  in  company  with  the 
American  Consul,  to  take  places  for  the  following  Saturday  to  Bar- 
letta,  thence  to  cross  the  Adriatic  to  Corfu.  Among  the  names  on 
the  books  were  those  of  two  Enghshmen,  (the  Messrs.  Suters,)  on 
whom  we  took  the  liberty  of  calling,  for  the  purpose  of  making  ar- 
rangements to  cross  the  Gulf  in  the  same  vessel.  They  were  found 
to  be  intelligent  gentlemen,  who  had  resided  as  merchants  at  Corfu 
for  several  years,  and  were  well  acquainted  with  the  present  condition 
of  the  Archipelago.  The  authentic  information  derived  from  them  led 
our  party  unanimously  to  abandon  the  expedition.  They  represented  the 
.seas  as  full  of  pirates,  and  the  islands  and  shores  in  such  a  revolutionary 
state  and  so  infested  with  banditti,  that  it  would  be  impossible  to  pene- 
trate the  interior.  The  climate  moreover  at  this  season  was  next  to 
fatal,  and  several  English  tourists  had  the  last  summer  fallen  victims 
to  its  ravages.  They  would  be  happy  of  our  company  across  the 
Adriatic,  and  would  lend  us  any  facilities  in  their  power,  in  obtaining 
passages  from  the  Ionian  Isles  to  the  Levant ;  but  in  a  friendly  man- 
ner, advised  us  not  to  embark  in  such  an  enterprise.     Our  American 

VOL.  ir.  37 


290        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

friends  seconded  the  advice  ;  and  thus  in  a  moment,  not  without  a 
painful  emotion,  with  me  expired  the  last  ray  of  hope,  so  long  and  so 
fondly  cherished,  of  visiting  the  most  interesting  portion  of  the  earth, 
not  even  excepting  the  classic  scenes  of  Italy,  which  had  afforded  us 
so  much  delight. 

As  the  utmost  limits  of  our  tour  towards  the  south  and  east  had 
now  been  reached,  the  same  party  that  had  anticipated  the  pleasure 
of  visiting  the  islands  and  climbing  the  hills  of  Greece  together,  agreed 
to  return  to  Rome  in  company.  A  vetturino  was  put  in  requisition, 
to  take  us  on  in  a  coach  by  ourselves  ;  a  full  load  for  the  miserable 
team.  At  the  moment  of  leaving,  it  was  found  that  the  driver  had 
engaged  to  take  another  passenger  without  our  knowledge  or  consent. 
Remonstrances  were  in  vain,  till  an  appeal  was  made  to  the  American 
Consul,  who  had  had  the  kindness,  among  his  many  other  favours,  to 
agree  for  the  carriage,  being  much  better  acquainted  with  the  Neapolitans 
than  ourselvfes.  The  great  overgrown  coachman  was  so  angry  at  being 
foiled  in  his  scheme  to  impose  upon  us  and  abuse  his  horses,  as  actually 
to  burst  into  tears.  This  attempt  at  fraud  brings  to  mind  another  in- 
stance of  a  similar  kind,  which  occurred  in  the  same  city.  A  vettu- 
rino endeavoured  to  impose  on  a  party  of  our  countrymen,  who  ap- 
pealed to  the  law  for  redress,  but  soon  learned  that  the  Justice  had 
been  bribed  to  give  a  decision  against  them.  In  this  dilemma  they 
appUed  to  the  Consul,  who  informed  them,  that  they  had  only  to  give 
a  fee  of  two  ducats  instead  of  oJie  to  the  Judge.  They  followed  his 
advice,  and  the  suit  was  instantly  decided  in  their  favour !  This  anec- 
dote is  said  to  be  illustrative  of  judicial  proceedings  at  Naples. 

Our  rights  on  this  occasion  were  the  more  strenuously  contested, 
for  the  sake  of  making  room  for  the  American  gentleman,  so  often 
alluded  to  in  my  sketch  of  Naples,  who  concluded  to  take  a  seat  with 
us  as  far  as  Caserta,  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  from  the  city,  whither  we 
all  wished  to  go,  to  examine  a  celebrated  aqueduct  and  palace  of  the 
king.  After  sundry  delays  and  disasters,  incident  to  a  dishonest,  lazy, 
and  shiftless  people,  the  morning  of  the  4th  of  June  saw  us  fairly  off" 
towards  the  north,  not  unwilling  to  escape  from  a  region,  where  the 
physical  and  moral  worlds  present  such  striking  contrasts.  The 
troops  of  clamorous  beggars  and  custom-house  officers,  who  pursued 
the  coach,  in  some  measure  alleviated  the  poignancy  of  feeling,  on 
taking  a  last  view  of  the  beautiful  bay  and  its  elysian  shores. 

At  the  town  of  Aversa,  we  made  a  diversion  to  the  right  of  the 
great  Capua  road,  and  after  crossing  a  broad  fertile  plain,  tolerably 
well  cultivated,  w'aving  with  harvests  and  vineyards,  we  reached  Caserta 
about  noon.     A  decent  breakfast  was  obtained  at  the  village  hotel. 


LETTERS  FRO>[  EUROPE.         291 

One  of  the  party  incurred  the  expense  of  a  carhn,  for  the  sake  of 
seeing  a  lazzarone  oat  a  \ew  yards  of  macaroni — a  sight  wliich  all  tra- 
vellers are  curious  to  witness.  Whoever  has  seen  a  conjurer  swallow 
tow,  and  spin  from  it  red  ribbon,  may  form  some  idea  of  the  play  of 
the  muscles  in  this  gormandizing  process.  The  great  art  consists  in 
swallowing  a  pound  or  two,  without  pausing  to  take  breatli,  or  inter- 
rupting the  continuity  of  the  rope.  It  is  not  an  exhibition  of  a  very 
intellectual  or  elevated  kind,  and  the  half-starved  showman  appeared 
to  enjoy  it  with  much  more  gout  than  the  lookers-on. 

After  breakfast,  we  procured  a  local  cicerone,  and  went  to  the  fa- 
mous palace,  built  by  Charles  III.  a  monarch  of  handsome  talents, 
great  magnificence,  and  no  mean  taste.  This  colossal  pile  is  in  point 
of  architecture  decidedly  the  finest  edifice  to  be  found  south  of  Rome. 
Its  lengtii  is  eight  hundred  feet,  and  its  breadth  four  hundred  ;  three 
stories  higli,  besides  the  attic  ;  and  of  the  composite  order.  The 
material  is  a  light  coloured  stone,  which  shows  remarkably  well.  There 
are  three  lofty  arched  doors  in  front,  opening  quite  through  the  build- 
ing, and  disclosing  in  long  perspective  the  elevated  ridges  of  hills  in 
the  rear.  Through  the  vista  formed  by  the  middle  enljance,  a  copious 
stream  is  seen  falling  in  cascades  from  the  mountains,  which  are  com- 
paratively naked,  uniform,  and  tame.  The  artificial  character  of  the 
water  also  detracts  much  from  the  beauty  of  tiie  prospect.  In  front 
of  the  palace,  which,  in  spite  of  all  its  faults,  presents  an  imposing  fa- 
cade, the  view  extends  across  a  wide  plain  to  the  south,  towards  Na- 
ples and  the  sea.  The  old  town  of  Caserta,  seated  on  the  top  of  one 
of  the  hills,  and  now  in  ruins,  forms  by  far  the  most  striking  and  ro- 
mantic feature  in  the  scenery.  It  is  difficult  to  assign  any  particular 
reasons  for  selecting  this  spot,  as  the  site  of  such  a  proud  structure  ; 
since  it  enjoys  neither  the  advantages  of  the  town  nor  country.  Tiie 
modern  village  of  Caserta  is  populous,  and  deprives  the  palace  of- re- 
tirement and  the  charm  of  a  rural  situation.  But  the  kings  of  Na- 
ples seem  to  have  planted  their  ten  or  a  dozen  residences  abroad 
ainong  their  subjects,  as  they  would  have  established  so  many  fort- 
resses, without  much  regard  to  taste. 

The  interior  of  the  palace  is  entirely  unique  in  its  construction,  and 
notwithstanding  its  oddity,  presents  a  coup  d'oeil  of  perhaps  unequal- 
led architectural  grandeur.  It  is  erected  round  four  spacious  courts, 
two  on  each  side  of  the  central  arched  and  pillared  passage.  From 
the  middle  of  the  edifice  four  magnificent  avenues  open  diagonally 
into  the  courts,  and  afford  views  of  the  rich  fa9ades  by  which  they  are 
bordered.  The  spectator  here  finds  himself  in  the  midst  of  a  splen- 
did panorama  of  palaces  rising  on  all  sides,  magnified  and  seen  to 


292        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

more  advantage  through  the  long  perspective  of  arches,  forming  liexa- 
gonal  radii,  including  the  two  running  transversely  through  the  build- 
ing. So  far  as  my  observation  extends,  this  plan  has  the  merit  of 
perfect  originality,  and  the  unity  of  idea  in  such  a  maze  of  splendour 
produces  a  very  happy  effect. 

The  stair-way  can  hardly  be  surpassed  in  grandeur.  It  springs  from 
the  central  arch,  and  ascends  by  a  flight  of  marble  steps,  perhaps 
thirty  feet  in  breadth,  to  the  first  story,  where  there  is  a  spacious  land- 
ing ;  and  thence  two  other  flights,  of  nearly  the  same  width,  rise  la- 
terally on  each  side  of  the  former,  to  the  second  floor.  In  an  alcove, 
opposite  the  foot,  stands  a  colossal  Hercules,  a  copy  of  the  one  in  the 
Studii  at  Naples  ;  while  the  head  of  the  steps  is  guarded  by  two  beauti- 
ful lions  in  marble.  The  upper  flights  are  enriched  with  balustrades 
and  Ionic  columns  of  the  richest  materials  and  the  most  exquisite 
workmanship.  If  there  be  any  thing  of  the  kind  more  magnificent  in 
the  range  of  our  travels  in  Great  Britain  or  on  the  Continent,  none  of 
our  party  can  boast  of  much  taste  in  architecture  ;  for  we  all  gazed 
in  admiration  and  astonishment  at  the  richness  of  the  view.  Yet  it  is 
not  improbable,  that  critics  might  pick  flaws  ;  since  there  is  scarcely 
a  work  of  art  in  Italy,  from  the  Venus  de'  Medicis  downward,  which 
has  not  alternately  been  the  subject  of  panegyric  and  censure  ;  so  that 
after  wading  perhaps  through  fifty  volumes,  a  person  after  all  must 
judge  for  himself. 

Entering  the  labyrinth  of  apartments,  we  first  visited  the  Chapel^ 
which  is  a  compound  of  splendour  and  meanness.  The  walls  are  sur- 
rounded by  colonnades  of  Corinthian  pillars  supporting  the  galleries. 
Some  of  these  are  said  to  be  from  the  temple  of  Jupiter  Serapis  at  Poz- 
zuoli.  As  a  contrast  to  this  richness  of  columns,  the  High  Altar  is 
of  painted  stucco,  without  a  fragment  of  marble  or  precious  stone  in  its 
tawdry  ornaments.  The  theatre  is  splendidly  finished,  having  three 
tiers  of  boxes,  making  about  forty  in  all,  with  a  throne  in  front,  for  the 
king,  little  inferior  in  its  decorations  to  the  royal  seat  in  San  Carlo. 
On  extraordinary  occasions,  his  Majesty  takes  with  him  to  Caserta 
a  company  of  players  from  Naples. 

The  cicerone  led  us  through  an  inextricable  suite  of  vacant  rooms, 
which  looked  all  alike,  and  in  which  the  points  of  compass  were  easily 
lost.  One  of  our  party  lingered  a  moment,  to  examine  a  fresco  upon 
the  ceiling,  and  became  so  bewildered,  that  after  wandering  for  some 
time  in  pursuit  of  his  comrades,  he  was  obliged  to  halloo  for  the  guide 
to  help  him  out.  The  floors  are  painted  red  and  varnished,  like  those 
of  all  the  other  regal  palaces.  There  is  a  scanty  show  of  furniture  and 
tapestry  ;  and  the  frescoed  ceilings  are  not  very  remarkable  either  for 


LETTERS    FROM  EUROPE.  29;j 

design  or  execution.  Among  the  groups  of  statues,  is  one  represent- 
ing Alexander  Borghese  crossing  a  river  in  triumph.  The  allegory 
is  supremely  ridiculous.  With  a  sort  of  bombastic  expression  of  bra- 
very, the  foot  of  the  conqueror  is  planted  upon  the  abdomen  of  the 
river-god,  whose  face  is  as  much  distorted,  as  if  he  was  suddenly  seized 
with  a  fit  of  the  colic  !  It  is  an  admirable  caricature,  although  intend- 
ed as  a  forcible  illustration  of  the  valour  of  this  modern  Alexander. 

The  gardens,  fountains,  and  cascades  in  the  rear  of  the  Palace,  arc 
all  in  horrible  taste.  Such  nudity  and  poverty  of  grounds  were  never 
seen  in  connexion  with  so  much  architectural  splendour.  A  lawn 
more  fit  for  a  farm-yard,  than  for  the  park  of  one  of  the  finest  edifices 
in  Europe,  spreads  back  of  the  northern  fa(;ade.  A  scanty  coat  of 
fohage  ;  a  few  shorn  trees  and  shrubs,  bordering  straight  paths  ;  par- 
terres of  flowers  fantastically  cut  into  the  shape  of  baskets,  disgust  the 
visitant  at  every  step.  In  the  centre  of  the  grounds  is  a  large  square 
fish-pond,  substantially  walled  up,  and  guarded  by  a  heavy  balustrade. 
Not  a  leaf,  nor  an  aquatic  plant  shades  the  finny  tribes  from  the  in- 
fluence of  a  broiling  sun.  Fishes  of  a  large  size  are  numerous,  and 
look  like  prisoners,  shut  up  to  satisfy  the  appetite  of  the  king,  when  he 
shall  be  pleased  to  call  for  them,  rather  than  as  embellishments  to  gra- 
tify a  man  of  taste,  by  their  little  sports.  I  would  as  soon  look  into  a 
poultry-yard,  as  into  the  fish-ponds  of  Caserta.  The  swans  and  ducks 
are  equally  unhappy  captives,  swimming  from  side  to  side,  impatient 
of  their  confinement,  with  no  little  green  islands  for  their  resting  place. 
What  a  contrast  is  here  to  the  rural  charms  of  Studley  Park !  The 
cascades,  instead  of  descending  naturally,  pour  in  regular  sheets  as 
over  a  milldani ;  and  the  fountains,  which  might  be  made  to  gush  from 
rocks  and  thickets,  spout  from  the  mouths  of  colossal  fishes  and  other 
monsters.  Yet  on  this  Palace  and  its  embellishments  Jive  millions  of 
dollars  have  been  squandered  ;  while  the  only  use  made  of  it  is  a 
twenty  days  residence  in  September  of  each  year.  The  agoTeo-ato 
cost  of  the  several  mansions  of  the  king  of  Naples  was  originally  twenty 
millions  of  dollars ;  and  immense  sums  are  annually  expended  to  keep 
thom  in  repair.     Such  are  some  of  tlie  blessings  of  royalty. 

Again  entering  our  coach,  we  set  out  for  the  aqueduct,  at  the  dis- 
tance of  four  or  five  miles.  The  road  runs  along  the  base  of  a  high 
range  of  hills,  crowned  with  the  ruins  of  old  fortresses  and  towns.  It 
passes  several  pretty  villages,  and  is  bordered  at  intervals  with  pyra- 
mids of  moderate  elevation,  surmounted  by  vases.  Winding  round 
under  the  cliffs  of  one  of  the  mountains,  the  traveller  sees  the  Aque- 
duct stretching  across  a  deep,  retired,  rural  vale  half  a  mile  or  more 
in  width.     This  stupendous  work,  which  reminds  one  of  the  similar 


294         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

structures  of  the  Romans,  is  two  hundred  feet  in  height,  consisting  of 
triple  rows  of  arches,  stretching  from  hill  to  hill,  and  presenting  a  view 
of  much  grandeur.  It  is  substantially  constructed  of  yellowish  stone  ; 
Avide  enough  at  top  for  the  passage  of  a  coach,  and  guarded  by  balus- 
trades. The  king  has  ridden  across  it  in  his  chariot.  It  bears  a 
striking  resemblance  to  a  work  of  the  same  kind  at  Montpellier,  in 
the  south  of  France,  described  in  one  of  my  former  letters. 

We  climbed  the  rugged  ascent,  to  the  eastern  end  of  it,  and  exami- 
ned its  arches,  opening  longitudinally  through  two  of  its  stories,  in 
lengthened  perspective.  The  conduit  is  five  feet  deep,  ami  eight  or 
ten  feet  from  the  top.  At  the  point,  where  the  water  enters,  the 
stream  is  so  rapid,  that  its  roar  may  be  heard  at  the  depth  of  several 
feet  below  the  surface.  Half  a  mile  farther  on,  the  current  descends 
from  the  "hill  in  an  open  canal.  It  is  rapid,  clear,  and  cold  ;  sufficiently 
copious  to  turn  several  grist-mills  before  entering  the  aqueduct.  It 
comcrf  Irom  iieneventum,  twenty  miles  to  the  north-east.  After  cross- 
ing the  valley,  it  runs  along  the  ridge  of  mountains,  in  one  place  through 
a  tunnel  two  miles  in  length,  and  the  rest  of  the  way  near  the  surface, 
till  it  bursts  from  the  brow  of  the  hill,  in  the  rear  of  the  palace  at 
Caserta.  Thence  it  is  carried  to  Naples,  making  a  distance  in  all  of 
about  forty  miles. 

We  followed  the  track  of  the  king's  coach,  across  the  top,  and  de- 
scended on  the  other  side.  The  view  into  the  secluded  vale,  winding 
up  among  the  mountains,  is  extensive,  rich,  and  beautiful.  This  aque- 
duct was  constructed  in  the  term  of  seven  years,  by  Charles  III.  to 
supply  his  palace  at  Caserta  with  fountains  and  fish-ponds.  Two 
long  Latin  inscriptions  on  the  arches,  give  a  history  of  the  undertaking. 
Who  that  has  examined  this  work,  constructed  for  more  than  half  of 
the  way  through  a  rough,  mountainous  country,  and  by  a  nation  with- 
out enterprise  or  energy,  can  doubt  the  practicability  of  supplying 
New-York  with  water  from  the  Bronx  or  the  Croton  !  Either  of  these 
streams  might  be  brought  to  the  city  for  one  half  of  the  sum,  which 
has  here  been  expended. 

Having  accomplished  all  the  objects  of  our  visit,  we  returned  to 
Caserta ;  and  after  parting  with  the  fi-iend,  w  ho  had  been  with  us 
almost  daily  during  our  residence  at  Naples,  and  who  had  done  so 
much  to  render  our  tour  both  agreeable  and  instructive,  the  rest  of  our 
party  set  out  for  Cay^ua,  with  feelings  not  a  little  saddened  by  such  an 
incident.  Just  at  twilight,  a  glance  was  obtained  of  the  ruins  of  the  old 
city  of  Capua,  rising  in  dark  masses  from  a  plain,  on  the  right  of  the 
road,  and  overgrown  with  luxuriant  foliage.  Half  an  hour  more 
brought  us  to  the  centre  of  the  modern  town,  scarcely  less  a  ruin, 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         295 

where  we  were  compelled  to  take  lotloings  for  the  night,  amidst  beg- 
gars, bed-bugs,  and  fleas,  the  latter  of  which  became  more  active  and 
sanguinary,  as  the  summer  campaign  opened.  The  swarms  of  these 
animals,  multiplied  partly  by  the  warmth  of  the  climate,  partly  by  the 
ruinous  condition  of  the  houses,  and  still  more  by  a  want  of  neatness 
in  the  inhabitants,  form  a  serious  drawback  upon  the  comfort  and  plea- 
sure of  the  traveller.  It  is  utterly  impossible  to  escape  their  ravages. 
I  have  frequently  fled  for  refuge  from  the  bed  to  a  sofa ;  but  the  re- 
morseless gang  pursue,  and  hold  their  nightly  revels  in  every  corner 
of  the  crazy  mansions. 

It  was  rather  an  act  of  mercy  on  the  part  of  the  vetturino,  to  arouse 
his  passengers  at  an  earlier  hour  than  the  old  Carthaginian  used  to 
muster  his  troops,  and  to  hurry  us  away  from  Capua  with  all  possible 
despatch.  The  weather  was  intensely  hot  and  our  progress  slow  ; 
but  the  charms  of  the  country,  now  dressed  in  summer  pride,  together 
with  books  and  conversation,  rendered  our  leisurely  retreat  over  a  road 
once  travelled  far  from  tedious.  We  reached  the  charming  villa  of 
Cicero,  at  Mola  di  Gaeta,  on  the  second  night  from  Naples  ;  and  the 
third  day  brought  us  to  Terracina,  where  it  was  necessary  to  take 
lodgings,  much  against  our  inclinations,  amidst  beggars  and  banditti. 
Inrecrossing  the  Pontine  Marshes,  a  grand  thunder-storm  was  witness- 
ed. The  dark  cloud,  with  well  defined  borders,  rolled  along  the  ridge 
of  Apennines  to  the  east,  enveloping  one  village  after  another,  about 
which  the  bolts  fell  in  rapid  succession,  and  the  road  trembled  with  the 
reverberations  from  the  hills.  At  1 1  o'clock,  we  again  reached  the 
Half-way  House.  A  dejeune  consisting  of  a  dirty  omelet,  a  bit  of 
coarse  bread,  and  a  glass  of  sour  wine,  was  served  up  on  a  wooden 
bench,  in  a  room  profusely  ornamented  with  frescos  in  charcoal. 
This  inn  is  supposed  to  stand  upon  the  site  of  the  Three  Taverns,  al- 
luded to  in  the  Acts  of  the  Apostles,  where  Paul  met  his  friends  in 
journeying  to  Rome.  In  the  vestibule  of  the  ruinous  chapel,  mention- 
ed in  a  former  letter,  a  Latin  inscription  states,  that  the  temple  and  its 
refectory  were  built  by  the  Pope,  to  commemorate  the  scriptural  inci- 
dents, and  preserve  the  footsteps  of  the  great  Apostle  of  the  Gentiles. 

The  fourth  night  brought  us  to  the  Alban  Mount,  where  good  ac- 
commodations were  obtained  at  the  Villa  di  Londra.  On  the  follow- 
ing morning,  our  trunks  were  forwarded  to  Rome,  while  we  lingered  a 
day  or  two  to  examine  this  interesting  region.  The  8th  of  June  was 
here  commemorated,  as  the  anniversary  of  our  departm-e  from  the 
United  States  ;  and  on  the  heights  of  Albano,  seating  ourselves  upon 
the  steps  of  a  little  church  at  sunset,  we  looked  towards  the  west  and 


•29(i  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

called  up  the  images  of  home,  expressing  our  feelings  in  the  language 
of  the  Swiss  emigrant : 

"  Oh  !  when  shall  I  visit  the  land  of  my  birth  ? 
'Tis  the  loveliest  spot  on  the  face  of  the  earth  !" 

In  the  pretty  little  white  village,  on  the  brow  of  the  Alban  Mount, 
tiiere  is  a  coffee-house,  called  the  Cafft  Americano.,  out  of  compliment 
to  our  country.  Could  the  old  Romans  awake  from  the  sleep  of  the 
tomb,  and  read  the  sign,  how  would  they  be  puzzled  with  the  name, 
and  what  would  be  their  astonishment  to  learn,  that  it  designated  a 
Republic,  proud  as  their  own  at  the  zenith  of  its  glory,  situated  in  a 
land  beyond  the  waste  of  the  Atlantic,  unknown  to  the  world  for  a 
thousand  years  after  the  fall  of  the  Roman  Empire  ! 

At  the  door  of  this  coffee-house  and  along  the  streets  were  seen  the 
descendants  of  the  Alban  Fathers,  playing  at  Mora.,  the  national  game 
of  the  lower  classes  throughout  Italy.  It  is  a  singular  amusement. 
The  two  combatants  stand  facing  each  other,  and  thrust  out  their  hands 
simultaneously,  both  guessing  aloud  at  the  same  instant,  the  number 
of  fingers  extended  conjointly  by  the  parties,  the  others  being  pressed 
to  the  palm.  If  either  happens  to  guess  right,  it  counts  upon  the 
score.  The  only  words  heard  are  the  Italian  numerals  from  two  to  ten 
inclusive,  as  thumbs  are  reckoned  in  the  lot.  By  the  loudness  of  the 
voice  and  the  earnestness  of  manner,  it  is  a  stunning,  crazing  game  ; 
and  the  antagonists,  heated  with  wine  and  maddened  by  play,  often  draw 
their  dirks  and  engage  in  more  serious  contests.  The  women  of  Al- 
bano  are  beautiful,  in  comparison  with  the  same  classes  in  the  Neapo- 
litan dominions.  They  do  up  their  hair  in  a  peculiar  manner,  with 
massive  silver  skewers  eight  or  ten  inches  in  length.  Red  bodices, 
tightly  laced,  preserve  an  original  beauty  of  form,  even  among  the 
peasantry. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        297 

LETTER  LXX. 

SKETCU  OF  3I0>'TE   ALBANO — SHORES  OF  THE  ALBAN  LAKE EXCURSION 

TO  LAKE  NEMI POMPEY's  PRISON MUSEUM  OF  ANTIQUITIES GROT- 

TO-FERRATA — FRASCATI RUINS    OF  TUSCULUM — MODERN  PALACES — 

RETURN  TO  ROME. 

June,  182G. 

The  morning  after  our  arrival  at  Albano,  we  procured  a  suite  of  don- 
keys, and  commenced  an  examination  of  the  liill,  under  the  guidance 
of  a  local  cicerone.  A  shower  overtook  us  soon  alter  leaving  the  ho- 
tel, and  compelled  us  to  take  shelter  under  a  grove  of  ilex  upon  the 
declivity,  commanding  a  full  view  of  the  Campagna  di  Roma,  which 
was  chequered  with  sunshine  and  shade.  In  the  distance,  tiie  eye 
could  distinctly  mark  the  foam  of  the  sea,  breaking  upon  the  solitary 
shore.  Beneath  us  rose  the  tomb  of  Ascanius,  and  several  other  old 
towers  peeped  out  from  the  rich  foliage,  which  covers  the  hill,  render- 
ing it  highly  picturesque.  As  the  rain  intermitted,  we  rode  to  the 
woody  borders  of  the  Alban  Lake,  slumbering  in  a  deep,  circular  cra- 
ter, more  than  a  hundred  feet  below  the  bank.  The  shores  are  rural, 
but  lonely  and  silent.  Here  a  relapse  of  the  shower  increased  to  such 
a  degree  of  violence,  as  to  drive  us  into  a  Franciscan  Convent,  the 
monks  of  which  permitted  our  donkeys  to  enter  the  cloisters.  These 
monastic  institutions,  situated  in  a  healthy  region,  are  appropriated  to 
the  purposes  of  education  ;  and  on  our  way  up  the  acclivity,  we  met 
a  long  procession  of  Roman  boys,  in  their  black  tunics,  and  dressed 
with  remarkable  neatness.  The  forms  of  instruction  in  Italy  are  ob- 
served with  the  utmost  precision  ;  but  tJie  mind  is  early  filled  with  the 
mummery  of  the  church,  and  intellect  rather  stifled  than  developed. 

The  storm  assiimod  an  aspect  of  much  grandeur,  and  heavy  peals 
of  thunder  reverberating  among  the  hills  were  peculiarly  suited  to  the 
character  of  the  Alban  Mount,  which  was  sacred  to  Jove.  Fortunately 
our  covert  afforded  a  prospect  of  many  of  the  interesting  objects  in 
the  vicinity.  The  Convent  stands  upon  the  high  shore  of  the  lake. 
Before  it  rise  fourteen  little  shrines,  intended  to  represent  the  various 
stages  of  the  crucifixion.  Several  monasteries  are  in  sight,  crowning 
romantic  eminences,  and  the  sound  of  the  bells  mingling  with  the 
storm  had  a  strong  effect  upon  the  mind.  The  Lake  itself  is  a  pretty 
sheet  of  water,  seven  miles  in  circumference,  embosomed  by  an  un- 
broken chain  of  green  hills.  On  its  southern  shore,  stood  Alba  Lon- 
ga,  the  cradle  of  the  Roman  empire.     It  is  now  in  utter  ruins,  which 

VOL.  II.  38 


298        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

may  be  indistinctly  traced  along  the  edge  of  the  water.  A  modern 
convent  rises  near  the  site  ;  and  above  on  the  declivity  is  a  cluster  of 
houses  called  Rocca  del  Papa.  Behind  the  village,  swells  the  highest 
peak  of  the  Alban  Mount,  finely  wooded  and  lonely,  crowned  with 
the  ruins  of  the  temple  of  Jupiter  Latiaris,  to  which  a  triumphal  way 
once  led,  and  whither  the  Roman  conquerors  at  the  head  of  their  le- 
gions, together  with  all  the  Latin  tribes,  resorted  to  pay  their  annual 
vows. 

After  the  rain  was  over,  we  continued  our  ride  to  Castle  Gandolfo, 
a  massive  old  fortress  occupying  an  eminence,  surrounded  with  a  group 
of  buildings,  and  looking  down  upon  the  lake.  A  winding,  precipi- 
tous path  leads  to  the  margin.  We  descended  and  traversed  the  shore 
for  some  distance.  The  water  is  deep  and  of  a  sea-green  complexion. 
Its  greatest  depth  is  said  to  be  four  hundred  feet.  The  borders  are 
reedy  and  overhung  with  groves  of  ilex,  intermingled  with  wild  bush- 
es of  various  kinds.  A  spacious  but  gloomy  cavern,  scooped  out  of 
the  cliiTs,  and  bearing  the  marks  of  having  once  been  fashioned  into  a 
temple  or  grotto  with  brick  arches,  goes  by  the  name  of  the  Baths  of 
Diana.  Between  its  entrance  and  the  water,  spreads  a  pretty  alluvial 
patch,  sprinkled  with  flowers. 

On  the  western  side  of  the  lake  is  the  celebrated  Emissary,  or  arti- 
ficial outlet,  constructed  in  the  time  of  the  Roman  Republic,  four 
hundred  years  before  the  Christian  era.  It  was  undertaken  in  conse- 
quence of  a  response  from  the  Delphic  oracle,  which  gave  out  that  the 
war  with  the  Veii,  in  which  the  Romans  were  then  engaged,  would 
not  terminate  till  this  work  was  completed.  It  was  finished  in  a  sin- 
gle year,  and  consists  of  a  tunnel  bored  through  the  solid  rock  of  the 
mountain,  for  the  distance  of  more  than  a  mile.  Its  dimensions  are 
sufiiciently  large,  to  enable  it  to  be  cleared  without  difficulty.  A  lofty 
court  or  reservoir,  constructed  of  massive  blocks  of  stone,  forms  the 
vestibule  of  the  shaft.  The  stream  issuing  from  the  lake  is  narrow, 
but  extremely  rapid,  and  at  the  distance  of  a  few  rods  from  the  mar- 
gin, loses  itself  in  the  arch.  A  group  of  fishermen  and  sportsmen, 
with  their  dogs  and  guns,  were  found  collected  about  the  mouth  of  the 
outlet,  spreading  their  nets  and  beating  the  bush  for  game.  One  of 
them  wished  to  sell  us  a  monster  of  an  eel,  three  or  four  feet  in  length  ; 
still  alive,  entangled  in  the  meshes.  He  was  probably  a  lineal  descend- 
ant of  those,  which  some  imperial  epicure  had  sent  to  feed  and  fatten 
in  these  waters. 

Returning  to  the  village  of  Albano  by  another  path,  bordered  on 
both  sides  by  groves  of  oak,  we  made  an  excursion  in  a  different 
direction,  alpng  the  old  Appian  Way,  to  Aricia  and  Genzano.     The 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        299 

remains  of  the  former  of  these  ancient  towns  are  scattered  by  the  side 
of  the  road,  at  the  base  of  the  hill  on  which  the  modern  village  is 
situated.  In  the  vicinity  are  the  ruins  of  numerous  tombs,  which 
cover  the  dust  of  the  Alban  fathers.  Sections  of  the  Appian  Way, 
together  with  fragments  of  a  bridge,  are  also  here  distinctly  visible. 
The  large  square  blocks  of  stone  are  worn  deep  by  the  wheels  of 
Roman  chariots,  which  once  whirled  onward  from  the  metropolis  to 
Brundusium  and  the  baths  of  Baia;. 

At  Genzano,  we  visited  the  lake  of  Nemi,  back  of  the  town.  It 
is  four  miles  in  circumference,  cradled  in  a  deep  basin,  which  to  all 
appearances  was  once  the  crater  of  a  volcano.  Its  waters  are  of  a 
greenish  complexion,  clouded  occasionally  with  darker  hues,  giving  to 
the  surface  the  variety  of  rich  mosaic.  It  has  an  artificial  outlet, 
bored  through  the  hills.  The  shores  are  rural,  but  less  wild,  woody, 
and  picturesque  than  those  of  the  Alban  Lake,  though  it  derives  its 
name  from  the  groves  of  Diana,  which  once  darkened  its  borders.* 
A  pretty  little  village  is  seated  on  the  brow  of  the  opposite  hill, 
overhanging  the  water,  into  which  the  fountain  of  Egeria,  gushing 
from  below,  pours  its  tributary  urn.  In  the  bosom  of  Lake  Nemi  is 
buried  an  imperial  palace,  which  once  floated  on  its  surface,  no  small 
part  of  which  it  covered.  It  was  constructed  by  the  Emperor  Trajan, 
in  the  wantonness  of  wealth  and  luxury,  and  was  suffered  to  sink  with- 
out much  regret.  It  is  said  to  have  been  five  hundred  feet  in  length, 
three  hundred  in  breadth,  and  two  hundred  in  height  ;  built  of  wood 
fastened  with  iron  clamps  ;  covered  on  the  outside  with  sheets  of  lead, 
and  lined  with  marble.  It  was  moored  in  the  centre  of  the  lake,  and 
supphed  with  fresh  water  by  conduits  leading  from  the  fountain.  The 
adjacent  shores  were  adorned  with  walks,  and  this  little  region  was 
converted  into  a  sort  of  fairy  land.  In  the  16th  century,  an  enter- 
prising Roman  citizen  descended  in  a  diving-bell,  and  examined  the 
foundered  palace.  It  is  said  to  be  in  a  good  state  of  preservation  ; 
and  could  it  be  raised  again  to  the  surface,  valuable  specimens  of  the 
arts  would  probably  be  found. 

A  visit  was  paid  to  the  Cathedral  at  Genzano,  for  the  purpose  of 
examining  a  picture  by  Annibale  Caracci.  The  subject  is  the  ascen- 
sion of  a  female  saint,  in  the  guise  of  an  angel.  She  is  represented  in 
mid-air,  having  just  escaped  from  purgatory,  in  which  others  are  seen 
with  flames  flashing  around  them,  and  their  eyes  and  hands  uplifted  in 


*  The  priest  of  Diana,  whose  worship  was  here  established,  held  his  office  so 
long  as  he  could  defend  himself  against  assassination  by  some  new  aspirant. 


300        LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE. 

despair.  In  the  heavens  above,  an  attempted  image  of  the  Supreme 
Being  is  seen  seated  on  a  throne,  wearing  a  white  beard,  clad  in  purple 
robes,  with  a  sceptre  in  his  right  hand,  and  his  left  resting  on  a  globe. 
The  Saviour  is  by  his  side,  bearing  the  emblematic  cross  ;  and  two 
angels  hover  below,  ready  to  crown  the  ascending  spirit  with  wreaths 
of  palm.  Such  a  painting  must  necessarily  be  in  some  measure  a 
caricature,  whatever  may  be  the  genius  and  skill  of  the  artist ;  for  the 
subject  is  entirely  beyond  the  reach  of  the  pencil. 

Returnino-  to  Albano  through  the  luxuriant  woods,  which  shade 
these  hills,  we  visited  at  evening  the  ruins  of  Pompey's  Prison.  They 
are  scattered  over  the  garden  of  a  modern  villa,  and  consist  of  gloomy 
arches,  composed  of  large  blocks  of  Peperine,  without  cement.  There 
is  nothing  very  interesting  in  the  construction,  or  agreeable  in  the  asso- 
ciations of  the  remains,  which  are  now  hidden  among  the  foliage. 
From  the  steps  of  a  little  chapel  in  the  vicinity,  we  again  saw  the  sun 
go  down  in  all  its  eftulgence,  gilding  the  woody  peaks  of  the  Alban 
Mount,  and  shooting  in  horizontal  streaks  of  light  across  the  vapours 
of  the  Campagna.  A  thousand  scenes,  consecrated  by  real  events 
and  fabled  incidents  in  the  tissue  of  Roman  story,  spread  before  us — 
hills  on  which  divinities  perched,  to  watch  the  movements  of  conflict- 
ing armies — shores  along  which  the  Trojan  fleet  coasted — the  wind- 
ings of  the  Lydian  Tiber,  explored  by  the  hero  of  the  iEneid — and 
Rome  herself,  proudly  seated  amidst  vanquished  nations,  and  girt  with 
her  hundred  fields  of  fame.  We  lingered  till  the  last  tints  of  day  had 
faded,  and  then  retired  only  to  retrace  in  dreams  our  classic  rambles. 

On  the  following  morning  I  rose  at  sunrise  and  visited  a  Museum 
in  the  village  of  Albano.  It  contains  a  set  of  antique  porcelain,  com- 
prising about  nine  hundred  articles,  found  under  a  bed  of  lava,  on  the 
shore  of  the  Lake,  near  the  site  of  Alba  Longa.  The  collection  em- 
braces an  infinite  variety  of  vases  and  cinerary  urns,  some  of  them 
containing  the  bones  and  ashes  of  the  dead.  Scarcely  any  two  of 
their  forins  are  ahke.  The  larger  ones  are  round,  in  the  shape  of  lit- 
tle temples,  with  a  door  in  front,  and  conical  roofs.  They  are  sup- 
posed to  present  a  miniature  picture  of  ancient  cottages.  In  the  in- 
terior, are  smaller  vessels  and  ornaments  of  various  kinds,  such  as 
lamps,  tiny  plates  to  hold  the  sop  for  Cerberus,  and  cups  for  wine,  oil, 
and  incense — equipments  for  the  travels  of  departed  spirits  on  their 
journey  to  another  world.  At  the  threshold  of  the  vases  stand  two  rude 
images,  probably  lares,  six  or  eight  inches  in  height,  and  rudely  fash- 
ioned. All  the  articles  are  of  baked  earth,  appearing  to  be  moulded 
by  the  hand,  and  not  cast  like  those  of  Greece  and  ancient  Etruria. 
The  decorations  of  the  ware  seem  to  be  of  oriental  origin,  resembling 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        301 

Egyptian  liieroglypliics.  These  antiquities  were  discovered  only  five 
or  six  years  ago,  and  have  not  yet  been  fully  examined  or  satisfactorily 
explained.  If  they  are  genuine,  they  indicate  that  there  was  a  town 
upon  the  shore  of  the  lake,  anterior  to  the  foundation  of  Alba  Longa; 
and  that  it  was  probably  buried  m  lava,  like  Ilerculaneuni.  Mr.  Hob- 
house,  in  his  Illustrations  of  the  Fourth  Canlo  of  Childo  Harold,  has 
some  judicious  remarks  on  this  subject,  to  which  those  of  my  readers 
are  referred,  who  vvish  for  any  thing  beyond  a  passing  notice. 

Alter  breakfast  we  set  out  for  Frascati,  a  white  village  situated  on 
the  western  declivity  of  the  mountain,  eight  or  nine  miles  from  Albano  : 
a  passable  but  rough  carriage  road  extends  along  the  brow  of  the  hill, 
midway  between  the  base  and  top,  aflbrdiug  a  succession  of  charming 
views.  It  winds  nearly  hali  round  the  high  borders  of  the  Alban  Lake, 
which  was  now  seen  by  us  for  the  last  time,  presenting  an  unruffled 
mirror  to  the  morning  sun,  and  reflecting  vivid  images  of  its  sylvan  and 
rural  shores.  The  landscape  in  this  region  is  the  richest  1  have  found 
in  Italy,  the  groves  of  oak,  ilex,  and  the  plane-tree  being  of  large  growth 
and  extremely  beautiful.  We  paused  at  a  considerable  village,  belong- 
ing entirely  to  the  Colonna  family,  and  examined  two  of  the  churches. 
One  of  them  was  hung  with  crimson  banners  and  other  finery,  in  pre- 
paration of  the  feast  of  iSt.  Barnabas.  On  these  occasions  the  eccle- 
siastics of  Rome  perform  pilgrimages  across  the  Campagna,  and  join 
the  villagers  in  the  festivities  of  the  day.  The  other  church  contains  a 
fine  picture  by  Guido.  It  represents  the  Holy  Trinity.  The  Father 
is  shadowed  forth,  clothed  in  his  usual  attributes.  He  supports  the 
Son,  who  leans  upon  his  right  hand  ;  and  the  Spirit  hovers  near,  in 
the  form  of  a  dove.  The  most  is  made  of  an  objectionable  subject. 
Napoleon  is  said  to  have  oti'ered  ^10,000  lor  this  picture;  but  the 
authority  of  our  cicerone  was  seriously  doubted,  as  the  Emperor  was 
in  the  habit  of  taking  such  specimens  of  the  arts,  as  struck  his  fancy, 
without  asking  the  price. 

A  few  miles  farther  on,  we  reached  Grotto- Ferrata,  so  called  from 
the  massive  iron  gate,  by  which  it  was  once  guarded.  It  is  situated 
in  the  midst  of  a  wild  and  romantic  district,  girl  with  tlie  striking  sce- 
nery of  the  Alban  Mount.  A  pretty  brook,  supposed  to  be  the  ancient 
Crabra,  descends  in  cascades  from  the  declivity,  murmuring  through  a 
deep  and  finely  wooded  glen.  An  hour  was  occupied  in  examining 
the  Convent  of  St.  Nilus,  which  is  said  to  stand  upon  the  site  of  Cicero's 
Tusculan  Villa.  Such  a  conjecture  rests  on  no  better  authority  than 
a  vague  tradition,  which  says  that  in  the  1 1th  century  St.  fsilus,  a  Ca- 
labrian  monk  of  the  order  of  St.  Basil,  demolished  the  Villa  and  built 
the  monastery  on  its  ruins.     A  few  fragments  of  bas-relief,  friezes,  and 


302  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

statues  have  been  found  in  the  vicinity  ;  but  in  the  general  revolution. 
they  might  have  been  brought  thither,  and  furnish  no  traces  whatever 
of  the  splendid  retreat  of  the  Roman  Orator,  where  several  of  his  most 
celebrated  works  were  composed.  The  evidence  of  identity  is  almost 
too  feeble  to  awaken  the  train  of  association. 

In  the  chapel  of  St.  Nilus  are  several  frescos  by  Domenichino — the 
finest  I  have  ever  examined.  The  most  celebrated  of  these  pieces  is 
the  Demoniac  Boy,  which  is  above  all  praise.  It  is  one  of  the  boldest, 
sublimest,  and  most  vigorous  productions  of  the  pencil,  and  no  one  can 
survey  it  without  an  emotion.  The  figures  in  the  group  are  numerous, 
and  the  strong  and  varied  expression  of  their  faces  is  admirable.  But 
the  maniac  himself  is  one  of  the  highest  conceptions  of  a  wild  and  poet- 
ical imagination,  which  this  artist  in  a  pre-eminent  degree  possessed. 
His  pictures  are  never  tarne,  though  often  extravagant.  Another 
compartment  of  the  chapel  represents  St.  Nilus  praying  for  rain,  and 
the  shower  descending.  The  subject  of  a  third  is  the  meeting  of  Otho 
III.  with  the  Neapolitan  clergy.  In  the  multitude,  the  artist  has  in- 
troduced himself,  in  the  humble  attitude  of  holding  the  bridle  of  the 
Emperor's  horse,  and  near  him,  two  of  his  professional  brethren,  Guido 
and  Guercino.  The  head  of  the  white  charger  is  in  the  highest  de- 
gree spirited.  Although  i  have  examined  acres  of  frescos,  these  were 
almost  the  first  that  subdued  my  prejudices  against  this  species  of  or- 
nament. 

'~  Between  Grotto-Ferrata  and  Frascati,  we  called  at  the  villa  of  one 
of  the  patrician  families  of  modern  Rome,  many  of  whom  have  sum- 
mer residences  on  Mont  Albano,  which  affords  a  comparatively  pure 
air,  and  refreshing  shades  in  the  hot  months.  The  large  palace,  though 
charmingly  situated  on  an  eminence  overlooking  the  whole  of  the  Cam- 
pagna,  was  found  to  be  dark,  gloomy,  and  vacant,  exhibiting  none  of 
that  taste  and  elegance,  which  characterize  the  country  seats  of  the 
Enghsh  nobility.  One  of  the  halls  contained  several  good  paintings 
by  Rubens  ;  and  another  was  entirely  filled  with  female  portraits,  suffi- 
cient in  number  to  trace  back  a  line  of  ancestry  to  the  age  of  Portia. 
Some  of  them  were  pecuHarly  beautiful,  both  in  subject  and  execution. 
Frascati  is  a  pretty  village,  but  of  itself  presents  few  objects  of  in- 
terest to  the  traveller.  After  taking  such  refreshment  as  a  small  cof- 
fee-house afforded,  we  mounted  another  lot  of  donkeys,  and  set  out  for 
the  ruins  of  Tusculum,  at  the  distance  of  several  miles  towards  the 
summit  of  the  hill.  On  our  way  thither,  a  short  visit  was  paid  to  the 
villa  lately  owned  and  occupied  by  Lucien  Bonaparte,  who  sold  it  to 
a  Sicilian  Countess,  whose  name  it  now  bears.  Its  situation  is  enchant- 
ing, commanding  a  full  view  of  Tivoli  and  the  mountains  beyond,  So- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  303 

racte,  Rome  and  its  environs.  The  apartments  are  tolerably  neat,  but 
present  a  waste  of  stucco.  Among  the  ornaments  is  a  long  gallery  of 
old  family  portraits.  The  garden  affords  the  only  attractions.  Its 
groves  are  luxuriant  and  beautiful.  A  good  statue  of  Venus  coming 
out  of  the  bath  adorns  one  of  the  fountains,  and  a  small  Cicero,  sitting 
in  a  philosophical  attitude,  occupies  a  thickly  woven  arbour.  An 
Apollo,  a  Discobolus  and  several  other  statues  repose  in  the  shades.  It 
is  said,  that  on  one  occasion  the  whole  family  residing  at  this  villa 
were  made  captives,  while  at  dinner,  and  the  house  pillaged  by  a  band 
of  robbers  from  the  neighbouring  hills. 

The  ascent  from  this  point  to  Tusculum  is  arduous,  leading  along  un- 
frequented paths,  through  pastures  and  woodlands,  enriched  by  the 
charms  of  nature,  but  wild  and  solitary.  Every  step  extends  the  tra- 
veller's horizon,  till  he  arrives  at  the  ruins  of  the  old  town,  scattered 
over  the  summit  of  the  hill.  After  traversing  the  streets  of  Pompeii, 
nothing  of  this  kind  can  surprise  :  otherwise,  Tusculum  would  have 
excited  our  admiration.  On  several  accounts,  the  latter  is  less  inte- 
resting than  the  former.  The  village  was  destroyed  at  a  much  later 
period  than  the  town,  and  by  a  fate  less  calculated  to  awaken  feelings 
of  sympathy.  Extensive  excavations  have  been  made,  and  the  remains 
cover  a  wide  area.  Fragments  of  marble  columns,  capitals,  and  en- 
tablatures strew  the  field,  half  buried  in  matted  grass,  and  overgrown 
with  bushes,  which  it  is  necessary  to  thrust  aside  to  read  the  mutilated 
inscriptions.  We  left  our  mules  at  the  entrance  of  the  disinterred  vil- 
lage, and  walked  up  the  main  street,  laid  bare  to  the  pavement,  com- 
posed of  large  blocks  of  stone.  The  amphitheatre  is  hidden  by  a  co- 
ronet of  verdure  ;  and  enough  of  the  theatre  exists,  to  show  it  was 
once  a  handsome  building. 

On  the  brow  of  the  hill,  at  a  little  distance  from  the  ruins,  stood  a 
villa,  which  is  the  rival  of  Grotto- Ferrata,  in  claiming  the  eclat  of  Ci- 
cero's name.  For  aught  I  know  the  pretensions  of  the  former  may 
be  as  well  grounded  as  those  of  the  latter.  The  location  is  worthy  of 
the  taste  of  the  great  orator,  statesman,  and  philosopher ;  suited  to  that 
elevation  of  thought  and  to  that  love  of  elegant  retirement,  for  which 
he  was  celebrated.  In  front  of  his  house  rose  Mont  Albanus,  sur- 
mounted by  the  temple  of  Jupiter  Latiaris,  already  alluded  to;  and 
farther  to  the  east,  the  sylvan  heights  of  Mount  Algidum  looked  down 
into  a  deep  rural  vale,  opening  into  the  Campagna.  On  the  other 
side,  his  eye  could  rest  upon  Rome,  the  scene  of  his  renown,  and  the 
object  of  his  paternal  cares.  Such  may  have  been  the  favourite  re- 
treat of  the  Father  of  his  Country.  The  ruins  of  the  house  are  ex- 
tensive, and  bear  the  marks  of  having  been  once  splendid.     It  is  said. 


304        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

tiles  have  been  found,  inscribed  with  the  name  of  Cicero  ;  but  tlie 
evidence  in  this  instance,  as  in  the  one  mentioned  above,  is  extremely 
vague  and  unsatisfactory.  The  name  of  old  Cato  is  also  associated 
with  the  hill,  and  the  Porcian  Meadows  form  a  part  of  the  flowery 
field  in  the  environs  of  Tusculum. 

In  returning  to  Frascati,  we  visited  the  Villa  Belvedere,  belonging 
to  the  Prince  Borghese,  who  married  the  celebrated  Paulina,  sister 
of  Napoleon.  He  is  one  of  the  most  wealthy  of  the  Italian  no- 
bility, his  income  amounting  to  something  like  half  a  million  of  dollars 
per  annum.  He  is  the  proprietor  of  two  of  the  most  splendid  villas 
in  the  vicinity  of  Rome  ;  of  the  largest  palace  in  the  city ;  and  of 
much  real  estate  in  Tuscany  and  other  parts  of  Italy.  His  chateau  on 
the  Alban  Mount  is  an  extensive  and  showy  pile  of  buildings.  A  group 
of  pretty  little  girls  met  us  at  the  gate,  and  presented  to  each  of  the 
party  a  bunch  of  red  and  white  roses — an  image  of  their  own  sunny 
cheeks.  The  guardian  of  the  mansion,  in  the  absence  of  the  prince, 
was  courteous  in  his  demeanour,  and  conducted  us  through  the  apart- 
ments, which  are  neat,  but  contain  few  ornaments  except  some  good 
prints  and  frescos.  Among  the  latter,  Judith  with  the  head  of  Ho- 
lofernes  is  admirably  executed.  In  the  grounds  back  of  the  palace  are 
fountains  and  water-works,  much  in  the  style  of  those  at  Chatsworth 
in  England.  They  were  put  in  motion  for  our  amusement.  The 
concert  commenced  with  the  blowing  of  a  horn  by  a  Triton  in  a  grot- 
to. In  another  alcove  is  a  representation  of  Parnassus,  with  musi- 
cians seated  upon  the  clifis,  who  produce  ''  a  concord  of  sweet  sounds," 
as  the  flood-gates  are  hoisted  and  the  fountains  begin  to  play.  The 
contrivance  is  rather  bungling,  and  the  eye  readily  perceives,  that  the 
music  is  ground  out  by  an  organ,  placed  under  the  mountain,  the  crank 
of  which  is  turned  by  a  water-wheel.  It  is  fit  only  to  amuse  children, 
and  gratify  vulgar  curiosity.  The  stale  trick  of  wetting  persons,  by 
decoying  them  into  a  grotto,  from  the  pavement  of  which  streamlets 
suddenly  spirt,  is  here  resorted  to  ;  but  in  this  instance,  a  troop  of 
rustics,  who  gathered  round  to  witness  the  concert,  were  the  only 
dupes. 

Descending  through  the  rural  park  of  the  Borghese,  we  visited 
another  smaller  palace,  belonging,  I  believe,  to  the  family  of  the  Chigi. 
The  rooms  are  rather  elegant,  and  the  ornaments  exhibit  a  good  deal 
of  taste,  the  walls  being  hung  with  tapestry,  and  filled  with  statues, 
some  of  which  are  works  of  merit.  Of  these  a  head  of  Jupiter,  a 
Diana,  a  Minerva,  and  above  all,  a  full  length  likeness  of  Canova,  as 
large  as  life,  are  the  most  interesting.  The  hall  appropriated  to  mu- 
sic, is  fitted  up  and  adorned  in  a  chaste  and  classical  style.     It  may  be 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        305 

remarked  in  general  terms,  that  although  nature  and  art  here  ofler  the 
most  abundant  and  the  richest  materials,  these  villas  are  wanting  in 
simplicity,  neatness,  and  rustic  embellishment  !  The  Romans,  who 
for  two  months  in  the  year  are  driven  into  exile  by  the  Mal'aria  to  the 
heights  of  this  beautiful  hill,  carry  too  much  of  the  city  along  with 
them.  Strange  as  it  may  seem,  not  a  particle  of  correct  taste  in  gar- 
dening is  to  be  found  in  the  oldest  nation  on  the  continent,  except  the 
few  instances  in  which  a  new  system  has  been  introduced. 

Having  visited  all  the  objects  of  interest  upon  the  Alban  Mount, 
we  returned  to  Frascati  and  commenced  our  flight  across  the  Cam- 
pagna  late  in  the  afternoon,  making  the  fifth  time  that  this  desert  had 
been  traversed  by  four  different  routes.  The  road  is  equally  solitary 
■with  those  whicii  have  already  been  described,  and  the  tract  as  suscep- 
tible of  being  reclaimed.  Passing  under  the  Aqueduct  denominated 
the  Aqua  Felice,  the  principal  source  whence  the  city  is  supplied  witli 
water,  we  re-entered  the  gates  of  Rome  at  sunset,  and  were  happy  to 
recognize  many  old  acquaintances,  if  not  in  the  faces  of  the  inhabit- 
ants, at  least  in  the  Coliseum,  the  Triumphal  Arches,  and  the  ruins 
of  the  Forum,  after  an  absence  of  a  little  more  than  a  month.  During 
the  whole  of  this  time,  with  the  exception  of  one  or  two  days,  the 
weather  was  delightful,  and  the  flowery  region  arrayed  in  all  the  bloom 
of  spring.  Few  travellers  have  probably  visited  the  south  of  Italy 
under  more  favourable  circumstances  ;  and  I  may  be  permitted  to  add 
without  vanitv.  that  few  have  examined  it  with  more  fidelitv. 


VOL.  II  30 


306         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

LETTER  LXXI. 

SKETCH  OF  ROME  RESCMED DESCRIPTION  OF  ST.  PETER's  CHURCH. 

June,  1826. 

On  the  day  after  our  arrival,  wc  resumed  an  examination  of  Rome, 
and  an  unremitted  round  of  observations  was  continued  for  three  or 
four  weeks.  I  hardly  know  what  disposition  to  make  of  the  nume- 
rous objects  comprised,  and  the  variety  of  facts  gleaned,  in  this  long 
term  of  active  sight-seeing,  added  to  the  notes  taken  on  our  first  visit 
and  not  yet  exhausted.  The  sketch  I  have  already  given  is  so  volu- 
minous, that  it  will  be  drawing  largely  upon  the  patience  of  my  readers, 
to  ask  their  attention  to  a  new  series  of  topics,  lying  in  a  beaten  track, 
and  aflbrding  little  room  for  originality  of  remark.  Rome  is  in  truth 
an  endless  subject.  If  half  a  dozen  octavo  volumes  have  been  filled 
with  the  history  of  the  walls  alone,  how  exhaustless  must  be  the  anti- 
quities and  the  modern  works  of  art,  embraced  within  their  circuit  ? 
I  shall  select  from  the  number  such  as  are  deemed  the  most  interest- 
ing, and  be  as  concise  in  my  notices,  as  the  relative  importance  of  the 
several  topics  will  permit. 

St.  Peter's  Church  is  among  the  first  objects  which  the  traveller 
will  visit,  and  among  the  last  which  he  will  wish  to  attempt  to  de- 
scribe. Like  a  knotty  face,  with  many  unique  lines  and  peculiar  fea- 
tures, it  requires  numerous  sittings,  before  any  thing  approximating 
to  an  accurate  portrait  can  be  expected.  I  have  seen  it  perhaps  a 
hundred  difl'erent  times  since  my  first  entrance  into  Rome — at  morn- 
ing, evening,  and  noon-day  ;  by  moonlight,  and  in  the  blaze  of  two 
illui?iinations.  To  catch  its  different  aspects,  I  have  been  round  it, 
and  over  every  part  of  it,  from  the  vaults  to  the  ball ;  but  after  all,  it 
may  be  extremely  difficult  to  convey  an  adequate  idea  of  the  structure  ; 
as  it  is  sui  generis,  wholly  beyond  the  limits  of  comparison.  Let  it 
not  be  inferred  from  this,  that  St.  Peter's  has  overwhelmed  my  mind 
with  utter  amazement.  One  learned  author,  after  giving  a  narrative 
of  his  journey  through  the  rest  of  Italy,  recoils  from  this  Herculean 
labour  of  tourists,  and  "•  durst  not  violate  the  majesty  of  the  divine 
fabric  by  his  unpolished  pen."  The  poet  Gray  says  he  saw  it,  and 
"was  struck  dumb  with  astonishment." 

If  these  travellers  manifested  no  affectation  in  the  expression  of  their 
feelings,  their  minds  must  have  been  differently  constituted  from  those 
of  ordinary  visitants  ;  for  nine  out  of  ten  look  at  St.  Peter's  for  the 
first  time  without  any  strong  emotion,  and  are  even  obliged  to  reason 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        307 

themselves  into  admiration,  by  dint  of  repeated  visits.  Most  persons  are 
disappointed  at  the  coup  d'oell;  and  my  case  claims  no  exemption  from 
the  common  lot  of  humanity.  The  first  glimpse  of  the  Dome,  caught 
at  the  distance  of  twelve  or  fourteen  miles  across  the  Campagna,  pro- 
duced a  much  more  powerful  effect  upon  my  mind,  than  the  front  view 
of  the  church,  within  fifty  paces.  It  requires  the  evidence  of  unques- 
tionable admeasurement  to  satisfy  the  spectator,  that  its  dimensions 
exceed  those  of  many  other  buildings  ;  and  although  this  optical  de- 
ception, arising  from  the  exactness  of  the  proportions,  may  constitute 
the  iiighest  praise  of  the  fabric,  on  reflection,  its  magnitude  is  in  a 
great  measure  lost  to  the  eye. 

The  location  of  St.  Peter's  is  pre-eminently  beautiful,  though  little 
except  the  Dome  can  be  seen  from  other  parts  of  the  city.  It  stands 
on  a  genlle  eminence,  the  brow  of  the  Vatican  Mount  and  the  site  of 
Nero's  ampl)itheatre,*  a  few  rods  from  the  right  bank  of  the  Tiber. 
From  a  point  near  the  Castle  of  St.  Angelo,  two  comparatively  nar- 
row, crooked,  and  dirty  streets,  with  a  block  of  mean  buildings  between 
them,  terminate  in  the  Piazza  in  front  of  tiie  cliurch,  of  wiiich  nothing 
is  seen  till  you  enter  the  square.  One  of  the  Pontiffs  had  it  in  con- 
templation to  remove  the  intermediate  range  of  old  houses,  uniting 
the  two  streets  into  a  broad  avenue,  opening  upon  the  Tiber  and  the 
bridge  of  St.  Angelo.  The  improvement  is  so  obvious,  and  the  sacri- 
fice of  property  would  be  so  trifling,  that  it  is  surprising  the  project 
has  never  been  carried  into  execution.  At  present  the  approaches 
are  through  passages  lined  with  butchers'  stalls  and  the  boutiques  of 
market-women.  A  chop-house  and  a  tippling-shop  for  teamsters,  the 
capitals  on  the  sign  of  which  outstare  those  of  Paul  V.  on  the  front 
of  St.  Peter's,  borders  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  square,  and  is  one 
of  the  most  conspicuous  objects  in  the  vicinity.  A  lure  of  "hot  and 
cold  dinners,"  blazoned  forth  in  letters  legible  from  the  doors  of  the 
church,  induced  us  to  step  in  on  a  rainy  day  for  refreshments  ;  but  the 
filth  of  the  place  and  the  low  company  compelled  a  hasty  retreat. 


*  This  situation  was  selected  by  Constant  ine,  the  original  founder  of  the  Church, 
out  of  respect  to  the  primitive  christians  and  martyrs,  who  were  cruelly  persecu- 
ted by  Nero,  and  thrown  into  his  amphitheatre,  to  be  torn  to  pieces  by  wild  beasts. 
The  ground  was  moreover  supposed  to  be  hallowed  by  the  dust  of  St.  Peter,  who 
is  said  to  have  been  crucified  with  his  head  downward ;  though  some  have  doubt- 
ed, whether  he  ever  visited  Rome.  The  tradition  of  the  ecclesiastics  holds,  that 
this  Apostle  embarked  on  the  coasts  of  Palestine,  in  the  year  44,  for  Italy;  that  he 
touched  at  Na^iles  and  Baiac,  thence  continuing  his  voyage,  TEneas  like,  towards 
the  mouth  of  the  Tiber  i  that  contrary  winds  drove  his  felucca  far  out  to  sea; 
that  lie  was  driven  ashore  near  the  mouth  of  the  Arno,  and  preached  the  gospel  to 


308        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

The  view  on  entering  the  Piazza  is   certainly  magnificent,  though 
not  sufficiently  imposing  to  strike  the  mind  with  awe  or  astonishment. 
From  the  entrances  of  the  streets  to  the  porch  of  the  church,  spreads 
an  area  of  about  a  thousand  feet  in  length,  and  in  the  widest  part  eight 
hundred  in  breadth,  handsomely  paved  with  large  flags,  bordered  by 
lofty  porticos  and  galleries  on  both  sides,  ornamented  with  an  Egypt- 
ian obelisk  in  the  centre,  and  refreshed  by  two  noble  fountains,  throw- 
ing their  silver  sheets  of  water  to  a  great   height.     The  moderate 
acclivity  of  the  area  ;  the  triple  flight  of  steps  mounting  to  the  porch  ; 
the  front  of  the  church  ;  the   dome  ;  the   lantern  ;  the  ball  and   the 
cross,  form  an  ascending  series,  extre;nely  agreeable  to  the  eye.     Had 
Michael  Angelo's  plan   of  St.  Peter's  been  adopted,  which  would  have 
brought  the  dome  to  the  centre  of  the  edifice,  and  rendered  the  whole 
of  it  visible  above  the  contemplated  portico,  like  that  of  the  Pantheon, 
the  view  from  this  point  could  scarcely  have  been  equalled  in  architec- 
tural grandeur.     As  it  is,  the  high  front,  surmounted  by  a  balustrade 
and  by  colossal  statues,  effectually  conceals  some  of  the  boldest  and 
finest  features  of  this  glorious  temple.     The  Sacristy,  which  may  be 
denominated  the  Folly  of  Pope  Pius  VI.  on  the  left,  and  the  monstrous 
pile  of  the  Vatican,  on  the  right,  also  obtrude  themselves  upon  the  eye, 
and  interrupt  the  unity   of  the  prospect.     Notwithstanding  the  pa- 
negyrics, that  Eustace  has  lavished  on  the  beauty  of  the  Travertine 
stone,  of  which  the  church  is  constructed,  its  complexion  appeared  to 
me  to  detract  much  from  its  dignity.     Its  hue  is  a  pale,  sickly  yellow, 
without  any  of  the  richness  of  the  Coliseum,  or  even  the  sober  gran- 
deur of  St.  Paul's  at  London.     With  these  deductions,  the  coup  d'oeil 
is  less  striking,  than  one  might  imagine  from  a  description  of  the  con- 
stituent parts. 

But  to  descend  more  into  detail  :  the  porticos,  bordering  the  sides 
of  the  Piazza  form  segments  of  an  ellipsis,  the  axis  of  which  is  eight 
hundred  feet,  and  the  transverse,  six  hundred.  They  are  composed  • 
of  four  ranges  of  Doric  columns,  sixty  feet  in  height,  including  the  Ionic 
entablature  by  which  they  are  capped.  This  mixture  of  the  orders  of 
architecture,  the  work  of  Bernini,  has  been  severely  censured.  The 
three  hundred  enormous  pillars,  forming  these  colonnades,  stand  at 
sufficient  distances,  to  leave  three  avenues  between  the  rows,  of  which 
the  central  one  is  wide  enough  for  two  carriages  to  pass  abreast.  In 
continuation  of  the  porticos,  covered  galleries,  with  arcades  looking 


the  Pisans ;  that  he  thence  travelled  to  P^ome,  where  he  was  made  the  first  Pope, 
and  finished  his  apostolical  labours  by  sufferinj  martyrdom. — .^ee  MUsorCs  Voyage 
1o  Ilalij  in  1687. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         309 

into  the  square,  rise  with  a  slight  inclination  to  the  vestibule  of  the 
church.  The  tops  of  these  magnificent  avenues,  extending  on  either 
hand  about  a  tliousand  feet  in  length,  are  faced  with  pilasters,  adorned 
with  balustrades,  and  crowned  with  two  hundred  colossal  statues,  ten 
or  twelve  feet  in  height,  giving  a  total  elevation  to  the  sides  of  the  Pi- 
azza of  upwards  of  seventy  feel.  Ii  is  dilficuU  to  conceive  of  an  ap- 
proach exhibiting  an  air  of  greater  grandeur. 

The  obelisk  consists  of  one  stupendous  lilock  of  red  Isgyptian  gra- 
nite, covejed  like  all  the  others  at  Rome,  with  hieroglyphics.*  It  was 
brought  from  Heliopolis,  by  order  of  the  Emperor  Caligula,  in  a  ves- 
sel constructed  for  the  purpose  ;  and  after  being  purified  from  the  su- 
perstition of  the  Nile,  it  was  dedicated  to  the  Caesars  and  erected  in 
the  amphitheatre  of  Nero.  It  lay  buried  in  ruins  for  many  ages,  till 
one  of  the  Popes  raised  it  by  machinery  at  an  immense  expense,  ab- 
solved it  again  from  the  pollution  of  pagan  idolatry,  consecrated  it  to 
Christianity,  and  mounted  it  upon  its  present  pedestal,  on  which  it  is 
supported  by  four  lions.  The  quadrangular,  pyramidal  shaft  is  about 
a  hundred  and  thirty  feet  in  height,  with  long  Latin  inscriptions  on  two 
of  the  faces.  A  horizon  is  drawn  on  the  pavement,  round  the  pedes- 
tal, and  the  points  of  the  compass  marked  in  the  Italian  and  English 
languages. 

The  two  copious  and  exquisitely  beautiful  fountains  form  the  finest 
features  in  this  superb  area.  They  are  constantly  gushing  out  in  jets 
d'eaux,  in  the  shape  and  size  of  large  weeping-willows,  sparkling  in  the 
sun,  and  not  unfrequently  producing  an  iris.  The  waters  fall  into  ba- 
sins of  oriental  granite,  fifty  feet  in  circumference.  In  this  species  of 
ornament,  which  in  point  of  convenience,  cleanliness,  and  taste,  ought 
to  be  placed  in  the  very  first  rank,  Rome  holds  out  an  example  worthy 
of  imitation  in  all  other  large  cities.  Not  cne  of  her  hundred  squares 
is  destitute  of  fountains,  some  of  which  are  even  superior  to  those  of 
St.  Peter's,  splendid  as  they  are.  I  do  not  despair  of  seeing  the  day, 
M'hen  New-York  and  other  cities  in  the  United  States,  shall  present 
similar  embellishments,  equally  conducive  to  health,  neatness,  and 
taste. 

The  triple  flights  of  marble  steps,  leading  to  the  vestibule  of  St.  Pe- 
ter's, have  not  ifi  my  opinion  that  boldness  of  outline,  which  is  suited 
to  the  grandeur  of  the  temple.  They  are  four  hundred  feet  in  breadth, 
and  perhaps  half  that  distance  in  depth,  sloping  off  towards  the  Piazza, 


■*  A  learned  antiquary  is  now  png;aj^eJ  in  decipheiing  the  inscription?   on  these 
obelisk?,  and  intends  shortly  to  publish  a  volume,  revealing  mysteries  so  long  con- 
-aled  from  the  world. 


310  LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE. 

in  a  kind  of  platform,  so  that  a  coach  might  almost  drive  to  the  door. 
Had  the  depth  been  somewhat  contracted,  a  horizontal  plain  continued, 
and  full  instead  of  half  steps  constructed,  the  effect  would  have  been 
much  more  striking.  From  the  upper  flight,  the  front  of  the  church 
ranges  along  between  the  two  galleries,  to  the  extent  of  four  hundred 
feet,  and  rises  nearly  two  hundred  feet  in  height,  supported  by  enor- 
mous Corinthian  columns  at  the  bottom,  with  a  sort  of  attic  story  em- 
bellished with  Ionic  pillars,  pilasters,  and  a  variety  of  architectural  or- 
naments, which  deprive  the  fa(,adeof  all  simplicity  of  character.  To 
this  defect,  numerous  windows  and  balconies,  whence  the  Pope  pro- 
nounces his  benedictions  upon  the  people,  greatly  contribute  and  jus- 
tify all  the  criticisms  of  architects.  The  front  is  broken  into  irregular 
sections,  and  resembles  that  of  a  palace  rather  than  of  a  religious  tem- 
ple. A  balustrade  extends  along  the  top,  behind  which  stand  colos- 
sal statues  of  the  Saviour  and  his  twelve  Apostles,  the  former  in  the 
centre,  and  the  latter  ranged  on  either  hand.  They  are  about  twenty 
feet  in  height,  and  bear  their  characteristic  emblems.  At  the  corners 
are  the  papal  arms — the  keys,  the  eagle,  and  the  triple  crown. 

Five  stately  entrances,  corresponding  with  the  number  of  doors, 
open  into  the  vestibule,  which  extends  across  the  whole  breadth  of  the 
front,  is  thirty  feet  wide,  and  upwards  of  sixty  in  height.  The  ceiling 
is  splendidly  gilt  ;  and  the  walls  are  enriched  with  a  variety  of  bas-re- 
lief and  other  decorations.  Two  equestrian  statues — one  of  the  Em- 
peror Constantine,  and  the  other  of  Charlemagne — occupy  the  extre- 
mities of  the  porch,  and  terminate  to  great  advantage  the  long  per- 
spective. Of  the  five  doors,  the  central  one  is  of  bronze,  resembling 
those  in  the  Cathedral  at  Pisa,  and  the  Baptistery  at  Florence,  though 
inferior  to  both  in  workmanship.  The  compartments  of  bas-relief  con- 
trast oddly  with  the  heavy,  greasy  curtains  in  the  shape  of  coverlets, 
hanging  at  the  other  entrances,  and  pushed  aside  by  the  visitant,  to 
enable  him  to  crawl  through.  One  of  the  doors  possesses  pecuhar 
sanctity,  and  is  opened  only  at  the  return  of  the  year  of  Jubilee,  when 
the  Pope  uses  the  hammer,  and  acts  as  porter  in  person,  unbarring  a 
new  gate  to  the  sanctuary,  through  which  the  eager  multitude  rush.  Its 
threshold  and  the  cross  on  the  pannels  are  worn  by  the  lips  of  devo- 
tees, who  never  pass  it  without  a  salutation. 

At  his  initiation  into  the  interior  of  St.  Peter's,  the  spectator  may 
probably  pause  for  a  moment  in  mute  admiration  of  the  splendid  scene, 
which  opens  before  him.  He  will  look  forward  through  a  perspective 
of  more  than  six  hundred  feet,  from  the  front  door  to  the  extremity  of 
the  chancel  behind  the  High  Altar,  and  lift  his  dazzled  eye  from  the 
tesselated  pavement  of  marble,  to  the  profusely  gilded  vault,  at  the 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         311 

height  of  seventy  or  eighty  feet  above  his  head.  After  the  glare  of  the 
coup  (Voeil  is  over,  and  his  feehngs  are  prepared  to  survey  objects  with 
dchbcration,  lie  will  set  about  examining  the  construction  of  the  ciiurch, 
and  the  world  of  ornaments  it  contains.  The  same  optical  deception 
with  regard  to  dimensions  prevails  here,  as  on  the  exterior.  One  sees 
a  white  marble  cherub  clinging  to  the  wall  and  supporting  a  font  of 
holy  water.  It  appears  a  mere  child  of  the  or(hnary  size ;  but  the 
hands  attempt  in  vain  to  span  the  colossal  wrist  or  ancle.  A  pen  is 
seen  in  the  hand  of  an  Evangelist,  in  proportion  to  the  statue  ;  and  it  is 
found  to  be  six  feet  in  length.  Some  of  the  decorations  sutler  extreme- 
ly from  not  having  been  calculated  for  such  a  scale,  appearing  like 
mere  motes  upon  the  walls. 

Contrary  to  the  plan  of  Michael  Angelo,  who  intended  to  bring  his 
stupendous  dome  into  the  centre,  the  church  is  in  the  shape  of  a  Roman 
instead  of  a  Greek  cross.  This  form  and  some  obvious  defects  in  the 
construction  greatly  impair  the  grandeur  and  beauty  of  the  interior. 
The  nave  is  about  two  hundred  feet  in  width,  bordered  with  walls  which 
are  ornamented  with  Corinthian  pilasters,  and  intermediate  niches  hold- 
ing colossal  saints.  From  the  nave,  lofty  arcades  open  into-  the  two 
aisles,  which  arc  lined  on  the  sides  next  to  the  walls  with  a  succession 
of  chapels  and  altars.  The  massive  partitions,  separating  the  nave 
from  the  aisles,  break  up  and  destroy  the  view,  taken  as  a  whole,  and 
but  a  small  part  of  the  area  can  be  seen  at  a  time.  Had  pillars  been 
substituted  in  place  of  pilasters  and  arches,  the  tout  ensemble  would 
have  been  inconceivably  grand. 

The  High  Altar  is  in  the  centre  of  the  cross,  beneath  the  peerless 
dome,  and  above  the  tomb  of  St.  Peter.  It  is  a  prouder  shrine  than 
ever  rose  to  a  pagan  god,  amidst  all  the  wealth  and  splendour  of  the 
East.  Four  spiral  columns  of  bronze,  wreathed  with  garlands  and 
adorned  with  cherubim,  rise  to  the  height  of  ninety  feet  to  support 
tlie  canopy,  which  is  surmounted  by  angels  and  a  cross,  said  to  be  one 
hundred  and  thirty  feet  above  the  pavement.  In  front  of  the  altar  is 
a  beautiful  balustrade,  enclosing  a  flight  of  steps,  which  descend  to 
the  tomb  of  the  Patron  Saint.  At  the  foot  of  the  stairs  spreads  a 
small  but  splendid  area,  denominated  the  Sacred  Confessory.  The 
walls  are  lined  with  alabaster,  lapis  lazuli,  and  red  antique.  A  white 
marble  statue  kneels  upon  the  brilliant  mosaic,  before  the  brazen 
doors,  which  guard  the  sepulchre.  The  balustrade  above  is  hung  with 
a  hundred  cornucopias,  supporting  lamps  which  are  kept  eternally 
burning. 

But  let  us  cast  our  eyes  upward,  and  survey  that  miracle  of  archi- 
tecture, the  inimitable  dome,  spanning  a  rotunda  one  hundred  and 


31-2  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

forty  feet  in  diameter,  and  swelling  to  the  height  of  four  liundred  feet 
above  the  pavement !  It  is  unquestionably  the  most  stupendous  and 
the  subliinest  work  of  the  kind  ever  reared  by  human  art ;  and  the 
longer  one  gazes,  the  more  is  he  astonished  at  the  indescribable  gran- 
deur and  beauty  of  the  fabric,  which  would  immortahze  the  genius  of  > 
Michael  Angclo,  had  he  left  no  other  monument  of  his  fame.  The 
walls  of  the  cupola  arc  lined  with  splendid  mosaics,  representing  the 
hosts  of  heaven,  angels  and  arciiangels,  cherubim  and  seraphim,  as- 
sembled in  the  presence  of  the  Almighty,  who  is  enthroned  above, 
almost  beyond  the  reach  of  the  eye.  Nothing  but  the  unequalled 
majesty  of  such  a  canopy  could  sustain  the  boldness  of  its  ornaments. 
At  the  foot  of  the  dome,  are  colossal  statues  of  the  four  Evangelists  ; 
and  above,  two  galleries,  one  at  the  height  of  a  hundred  and  seventy, 
and  the  other  two  hundred  and  forty  feet  from  the  pavement,  encircle 
the  interior.  Near  the  latter  is  the  appropriate  motto  of  the  church, 
inscribed  in  one  line  and  in  large  letters,  which  are  legible  from  the 
floor — '■'■  Thou  art  Peter,  and  upon  this  rock  will  I  build  my  church  ; 
and  I  will  give  to  thee  the  keys  of  the  kingdom  of  Heaven." 

How  painful  and  humiliating  is  it,  to  turn  from  the  elevation  of  thought 
and  the  exhibition  of  human  power,  bodied  forth  in  this  wonderful 
achievement  of  the  arts — nay  more,  iVom  the  contemplation  of  the 
shadowy  image  of  the  Supreme  Being  himself — to  a  miserable  idol, 
seated  upon  a  pedestal  near  the  High  Altar !  It  is  called  a  statue  of 
St.  Peter,  though  it  was  once  a  Jupiter  Capitolinus.  I  regret  to  say, 
that  neither  its  character  nor  destination  seems  to  be  essentially  elevated 
by  a  conversion  to  Christianity ;  for  the  worship  daily  and  hourly  paid 
to  it  rises  but  little  if  any  above  the  most  abject  idolatry.  The  mate- 
rial is  bronze,  of  a  coal  black  complexioM.  As  the  figure  is  no  larger 
than  life,  the  colossal  proportions  of  other  objects  in  the  vicinity  give 
to  the  image  of  the  saint  the  appearance  of  a  sooty  negro,  set  up  for 
the  mockery  of  adoration.  Devotees  approach  in  crowds,  kneel,  rub 
their  foreheads  against  the  knees,  with  the  stupidity  of  cattle,  and  kiss 
the  toe  with  fervid  lips.  The  parts  of  the  bronze  most  exposed  to 
caresses  are  kept  bright  by  a  perpetual  round  of  blandishments.  In 
the  19th  century,  an  age  of  light  and  knowledge,  when  even  the  Pope 
is  sending  missionaries  to  the  four  corners  of  the  earth,  to  prostrate 
heathen  idols — in  the  oldest  nation  of  Europe — in  a  city  where  the 
principles  of  Christianity  were  first  firmly  established — under  these  cir- 
cumstances, such  a  degrading  spectacle  is  the  greatest  of  all  the  mira- 
cles, which  the  traveller  will  find  about  St.  Peter's!  Yet  what  religious 
rites  are  to  be  expected  in  a  temple  dedicated,  not  to  God,  but  to  the 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        ai3 

chief  of  the  Apostles  ?*  I  say  it  not  irreverently,  that  ncitlicr  the  Fa- 
ther, nor  the  Son,  nor  the  Holy  Ghost  is  here  worshipped ;  but  a  new 
Trinity  composed  of  St.  Peter,  the  Virgin,  and  the  Pope! 

Behind  the  High  Altar,  in  the  semicircular  Chancel  or  Tribuna, 
stands  the  bronze  chair  of  the  Patron  Saint,  elevated  against  the  wall 
seventy  feet  above  the  pavement,  and  supported  by  four  colossal  figures 
of  the  doctors  of  the  Greek  and  Latin  church.  Above  it  is  a  round 
window,  with  the  glass  stained  of  a  yellow  hue,  on  which  the  Holy 
Spirit  is  portrayed  in  the  form  of  a  dove,  and  through  which  the  west- 
ern sun  pours  a  sliower  of  saffron  light  sufficient  to  gild  the  brazen  or- 
naments. The  tomb  of  Urban  Vlli.  is  on  the  left  of  the  chair  of  St. 
Peter ;  and  on  the  riglit,  is  a  rich  group  of  statuary,  designed  by  Mi- 
chael Angelo,  in  memory  of  his  distinguished  patron.  Pope  Paul  III. 
The  figure  of  justice,  represented  in  the  guise  of  a  young  female, 
is  said  to  have  been  originally  so  beautiful,  that  a  Spanish  cavalier, 
probably  a  descendant  of  the  knight  of  La  Mancha,  or  his  redoubtable 
squire,  fell  in  love  with  the  voluptuous  marble.  His  Holiness,  taking 
a  hint  from  the  unfortunate  passion  of  tliis  modern  Pygmalion,  muffled 
justice  in  a  bronze  habit,  rendering  her  charms  less  attractive. 

One  or  two  rounds  through  the  aisles,  a  Sabbath-day's  journey  in 
extent,  will  satisfy  most  travellers,  that  amidst  the  boundless  riches  and 
gorgeous  decorations  of  this  church,  tiierc  are  very  (cw  objects  of  in- 
tense interest  to  rivet  attention.  In  a  chaos  of  splendour,  composed 
of  the  most  precious  materials,  the  eye  roves,  and  carelessly  surveys, 
it  scarcely  knows  or  cares  what — columns  which  it  took  an  age  to 
polish  and  rear — marbles  and  gems,  which  the  wealth  of  a  kingdom 
could  not  purchase — walls  covered  with  pictures  of  the  Italian  masters 
in  mosaic! — shrines  sparkling  with  jewels,  and  wreathed  with  the 
smoke  of  incense.  At  every  turn,  you  meet  colossal  statues  of  monks 
and  saints,  whose  names  are  otdy  to  be  learned  from  the  papal  calen- 
dar ;  tombs  of  Popes,  who  left  no  other  monuments  behind,  than 
proud  piles  of  sepulchral  marble  ;  exiled  kings  with  mock  titles  of 
sovereignty,  and  queens  who  never  saw   a  throne  or  a  sceptre.     The 


*  The  words,  "  In  honorem  pri/icipis  Aposlolorum  Paulus  Borghesius  Romari' 
xis^''  are  inscribed  in  capitals  on  tlic  li-oiit. 

t  These  mosaics  are  composed  of  globules  of  painted  glass,  bedded  in  a  com- 
position, which  hardens  and  becomes  durable  as  marble.  After  the  work  is  done, 
the  surface  is  polished  in  the  same  manner  as  mirrors.  The  most  celebrated  pic- 
tures of  this  description  in  the  church  are  copies  of  Raphael's  Transfiguration; 
Guide's  Archangel  and  his  crucifixion  of  St.  Paul ;  Domenichino's  martyrdom  of 
St.  Sebastian  and  his  communion  of  St.  Girolamo;  andGuercino's  story  of  St.  }'c- 
ironilla. 

VOL.  II  40 


314        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

last  of  the  Stuarts  are  gathered  into  the  sanctuary  of  the  faithful ;  and 
the  historical  reader  may  here  muse  over  the  ashes  of  Charles  III. 
James  IV.  and  Henry  IX.  kings  of  England,  whose  reigns  Hume  and 
Smollet  forgot  to  mention  !  I  would  not  insult  the  dust  of  this  per- 
secuted race  ;  but  such  tricks  are  too  ludicrous  to  be  carried  to  the 
grave. 

With  the  exception  of  Leo  X.  and  two  or  three  others,  there  is 
scarcely  a  distinguished  name  in  the  congregation  of  Popes,  who  have 
been  so  fortunate  as  to  find  an  apotheosis  in  St.  Peter's.  But  what 
is  still  more  remarkable  in  a  city,  which  is  the  very  centre  of  the  fine 
arts,  and  in  the  grandest  temple  ever  reared  by  human  hands,  the 
sepulchral  monuments  are  generally  characterized  by  a  sort  of  regular 
dullness,  with  no  very  gross  defects  and  but  few  striking  merits  ;  as  if 
genius  was  paralysed  by  the  subjects  it  was  employed  to  commemo- 
rate. But  besides  this  cold  negative  mediocrity,  there  is  much  posi- 
tive bad  taste  in  the  ornaments — devices  unsuited  to  the  solemnity  of 
the  church  and  the  tomb — materials  of  different  complexions — mar- 
V  bles  highly  gilt,  and  tricked  out  with  other  gaudy  decorations.  By  far  the 

finest  monument  is  in  memory  of  Clement  XIII.  by  Canova.  At 
the  base  are  two  recumbent  lions  :  the  one  represented  asleep  is  a 
noble  production  of  the  chisel.  A  holy  family,  by  Michael  Angelo, 
is  on  too  small  a  scale  to  produce  much  effect.  The  baptismal  font 
was  once  a  part  of  the  tomb  of  Otho  II.  It  is  of  beautiful  porphyry, 
but  tastelessly  bedizzened  with  bronze.  A  pillar  in  one  of  the  aisles 
is  said  to  be  that  against  which  the  Saviour  leaned,  while  disputing 
with  the  doctors  in  the  temple  at  Jerusalem.  The  church  is  finely 
lighted,  and  an  equable  temperature  preserved  throughout  the  year. 

The  principal  chapels  are  those  of  the  Choir,  in  which  mass  is 
daily  celebrated ;  and  of  the  Holy  Sacrament,  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  nave.  Innumerable  confessories,  resembling  the  sentry  boxes  of 
watchmen,  with  a  lateral  aperture,  where  the  ear  of  the  priest  may 
come  in  contact  with  the  lips  of  the  penitent,  are  ranged  round  the 
ends  of  the  transept.  They  are  made  of  wood,  movable,  and  label- 
led with  the  languages  for  which  each  is  intended.  A  person  may 
here  confess  his  transgressions  in  any  tongue — Greek,  Latin,  Itahan, 
Spanish,  French,  German,  English,  and  a  dozen  others.  All  sorts  of 
persons,  old  and  young,  male  and  female,  civil  and  military,  may  be 
seen  kneeling  at  the  sides  of  the  boxes,  pouring  out  the  secrets  of 
their  hearts  in  whispers.  It  is  said,  with  what  truth  I  know  not,  that 
^  frequent  iniquities  are  practised  by  the  priests,  availing  themselves  of 

the  propensities  and  weaknesses  disclosed  to  them  in  confessions,  for 
forming  intrigues  of  their  own :    while  in  too  many  instances  the 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         315 

worldly-minded  make  a  cloak  of  relifjion,  converting  an  act  of  con- 
trition into  the  means  of  greater  oflences, — 

"  And  e'ei)  ia  penance  planning  sins  anew." 

By  a  flight  of  steps  in  the  vicinity  of  the  High  Altar,  we  descended 
into  the  crypt  beneath  the  pavement,  where  the  old  church  built  by 
Constantino  is  still  preserved.  It  is  only  ten  or  twelve  feet  in  height ; 
but  the  relic  is  held  in  great  veneration  by  the  pious.  The  subter- 
ranean region  seems  to  be  nearly  co-extensive  with  the  pavement  of 
the  church.  One  or  two  young  ecclesiastics  lighted  us  through  the 
gloomy  labyrinth  with  candles,  and  pointed  out  the  numerous  curiosi- 
ties. At  the  entrance,  is  the  Chapel  of  the  Confession  in  the  form  of  a 
Latin  cross,  embeUished  with  bas-reliefs  in  marble  and  bronze,  illus- 
trative of  the  lives  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul.  The  workmanship  of 
some  of  the  ornaments  is  exquisite.  A  grate  in  the  pavement,  form- 
ing the  roof  of  the  chapel,  admits  a  few  rays  of  light,  which  fall  like 
moon-beams  on  the  sculptured  marble.  The  dust  of  the  Patron  Saint 
is  said  to  repose  beneath  the  altar.  Tradition  says  that  his  head  was 
buried  at  St.  John  Lateran,  while  a  part  of  the  body  of  the  Apostle, 
from  whom  that  church  derives  its  name,  here  mingles  with  the  ashes 
of  St.  Peter.  Such  are  the  nice  apportionments  into  which  the  Ca- 
tholics enter,  in  the  subdivisions  of  relics.  Medallions  of  the  two 
great  heralds  of  the  gospel  are  suspended  from  the  altar.  We  groped 
our  way  like  ghosts  through  the  vaults  of  the  dead,  whose  slumbers 
were  undisturbed  by  any  sound,  save  the  echoes  of  our  footsteps. 
Popes  and  cardinals,  princes  and  nobles,  here  sleep  in  state  ;  but  the 
same  remarks  are  applicable  to  their  sarcophagi,  as  to  the  tombs  above, 
round  the  walls  of  the  church.  Very  kw  names  induced  the  visitant 
to  pause  and  strain  his  eyes  to  read  the  long  Latin  inscriptions  by  the 
gleams  of  the  taper. 

Our  ascent  to  the  top  of  St.  Peter's,  in  the  afternoon  of  a  bright 
day,  formed  a  striking  contrast  with  this  visit  to  the  subterranean 
world.  The  inclination  of  the  stair-way,  or  more  properly  the  road 
leading  to  the  roof  of  the  church,  is  so  gentle  that  donkeys  may  go 
up  without  difiiculty.  A  little  town  paved  with  brick,  and  covered 
with  small  buildings,  here  opens  to  the  view  of  the  traveller,  over 
which  he  strolls  as  carelessly,  as  he  would  through  the  streets  of  a  vil- 
lage, occasionally  leaning  over  the  balustrades  to  look  at  the  Piaz- 
za, or  the  gardens  of  the  Vatican.  Amidst  pinnacles  and  minor  cupo- 
las, forming  the  roofs  of  the  chapels  below,  the  great  dome  swells  with 
inconceivable  grandeur,  surrounded  by  magnificent  columns  joined 
in  pairs  :  surmounted  by  the  lantern,  which  sits  like  a  Grecian  temple 


316        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

upon  the  apex  ;  and  overtopped  by  the  ball  and  cross.     This  stupend- 
ous work  is  as  indescribable  as  it  is  inimitable. 

Pursuing  our  journey  upward,  we  entered  the  dome  and  walked 
round  both  of  the  galleries,  which  are  at  such  a  height  from  the  pave- 
ment, as  to  make  the  head  swim  and  the  feet  to  fall  lightly,  notwithstand- 
ing the  defence  of  a  balustrade.  Whispers  are  distinctly  heard  from 
side  to  side.  From  this  point  to  the  lantern,  the  narrow  stairs  lead 
through  the  concentric  walls  of  the  cupola,  both  of  stone,  and  sub- 
stantially constructed.  Thence  we  continued  the  arduous  ascent  by 
an  iron  ladder  to  the  ball,  which  is  eight  feet  in  diameter  and  about 
four  hundred  and  fifty  feet  from  the  ground.  The  wind  roared  like  a 
furnace  round  the  brazen  walls,  though  the  day  was  comparatively 
calm.  Persons  have  ascended  by  a  ladder  of  ropes,  on  the  outside  of 
the  ball  to  the  cross.  A  French  lady  is  said  to  have  performed  the 
achievement,  and  to  have  leaned,  like  a  graceful  statue,  with  the  ut- 
most coolness,  against  the  burnished  crucifix.  But  the  useless  under- 
taking is  attended  with  so  much  danger,  that  the  Pope  has  prohibited 
the  ascent  by  a  special  bull. 

From  the  lantern,  which  contains  an  album  for  recording  the  names 
of  visitants,  and  also  a  card  of  the  dimensions  of  the  church,  we  had 
a  splendid  view  of  Rome  and  its  environs,  the  Tiber  rolling  beneath 
us,  the  Seven  Hills  strewed  with  ruins,  the  Campagna,  the  distant 
mountains,  and  the  sea.  But  these  objects  are  already  too  familiar  to 
my  readers,  to  bear  a  repetition.  Although  the  dome  of  St.  Peter's 
is  twice  the  height  of  the  tower  to  the  Senator's  House  on  the  Capito- 
line  Hill,  the  prospect  from  the  latter  is  preferable,  as  it  commands 
nearly  the  same  horizon,  and  is  more  central,  especially  as  it  regards 
objects  in  the  city.  On  this  account,  it  is  generally  selected  as  the 
observatory  of  travellers  and  artists. 

The  history  of  St.  Peter's  may  be  told  in  few  words — at  least  all 
that  the  generality  of  readers  will  care  to  know.  It  was  founded  in  the 
4th  century,  and  acquired  great  veneration  from  being  the  rallying- 
point  of  the  primitive  christians,  as  well  as  from  the  reputation  of 
containing  the  relics  of  the  Apostle.  The  old  church,  erected  by  Con- 
stantino, became  ruinous  in  the  lapse  of  a  thousand  years,  and  the 
foundations  of  the  present  structure,  the  proudest  temple  of  religion  that 
the  world  ever  saw,  were  laid  at  the  commencement  of  the  16th  century. 
From  that  period  onward  for  many  ages,  the  richest  materials  were 
collected,  and  through  the  successive  reigns  of  thirty-five  Pontiffs,  the 
services  of  the  first  architects  were  put  in  requisition — Bramante, 
Michael  Angelo,  Raphael,  Vignola,  Giotto,  and  Bernini ;  names  to 
which  the  present  age  can  furnish  no  parallels.     It  may  be  doubted, 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         317 

uiictljer  the  united  skill  of  all  the  countries  upon  the  globe,  notwith- 
standing the  modern  improvements  in  science,  could  now  erect  an  edi- 
fice equally  splendid.  Certain  it  is,  the  experiment  is  not  worth  try- 
ing ;  for  St.  Peter's  has  exhausted  the  resources  of  a  nation,  and  en- 
tailed poverty  and  wretchedness  upon  milhons  of  people.  The  gran- 
deur of  domes,  the  magnificence  of  columns,  the  blaze  of  altars,  and 
the  glitter  of  mosaics,  are  but  [)oor  equivalents  for  the  deserts  of  the 
Campagna,  and  an  ignorant,  degraded  population. 

A  sufficient  sum  has  been  wasted,  emphatically  wasted,  upon  the 
Vatican  Mount,  to  render  the  inhabitants  of  the  papal  dominions  free, 
great,  and  iiappy,  instead  of  sinking  them  into  miserable  and  abject 
slaves.  The  original  cost  of  St.  Peter's  was  something  like  sixty  mil- 
lions of  dollars  ;  and  the  gorgeous,  tasteless  Sacristy  added  by  Pius 
VI.  with  other  enibellisimients  which  every  new  Pope  is  ambitious  of 
introducing,  has  increased  the  total  expenditure  to  an  amount  not  less 
than  a  hundred  millions  !  And  what  is  the  intrinsic  value  of  this  gew- 
gaw, witii  all  its  dazzling  glories  ?  For  any  purposes  of  religious  wor- 
ship, the  humble  temple  of  Goldsmith's  Curate, 

"  Tlie  decent  church  that  topp'J  the  neighbouring  hill," 

is  worth  more  than  all  the  pomp  and  glare  of  St.  Peter's,  leading  the 
thoughts  astray,  and  fixing  the  eye,  not  on  heaven,  but  on  the  monu- 
ments of  human  pride.  Long,  long  may  it  be,  before  our  country 
shall  in  the  remotest  degree  follow  an  example,  as  fatal  to  national 
prosperity,  as  it  is  contrary  to  the  spirit  of  Christianity  ! 


318        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

LETTER  LXXII. 

R09IE     CONTINUED — VATICAN — SAL  A      EEGIA SISTINE     CHAPEL LAST 

JUDGMENT  OF  MICHAEL  ANGELO PAOLINE  CHAPEL GALLERIES  AND 

CHAMBERS  OF  RAPHAEL — COLLECTION  OF  PICTURES. 

June,  1826. 

Adjoining  St.  Peter's  on  the  north  is  the  Vatican  or  the  Palace  of 
the  Pope,  an  irregular,  enormous  pile,  covering  an  area  twelve  hun- 
dred feet  in  length  by  one  thousand  in  breadth,  and  forming  a  congeries 
of  buildings,  which  have  been  added  one  after  another,  from  the  days 
of  Constantine  to  the  present  period.  As  no  systematic  plans  or  or- 
ders of  architecture  have  been  followed,  and  as  the  various  sections 
have  sprung  up  in  ages  widely  differing  in  character,  the  exterior  is 
without  form  and  void,  presenting  nothing  striking  except  its  magni- 
tude. Some  of  the  twenty-five  courts  enclosed  by  these  vast  ranges  of 
palaces  are  rather  splendid,  adorned  with  fountains,  and  the  other  usual 
embellishments.  One  peculiar  feature  prevails  in  the  construction 
of  these  buildings.  They  conform  to  the  original  contour  of  the  hill, 
rising  one  above  another  on  the  acclivity  ;  and  the  extensive  galleries, 
which  have  been  opened  in  the  interior,  are  in  the  forms  of  inclined 
planes,  which  may  be  considered  an  ornament  rather  than  a  defect. 

The  whole  of  the  Vatican,  except  the  suite  of  apartments  appropria- 
ted to  the  Pope,  is  occupied  as  an  immense  repository  of  the  fine  arts 
— by  far  the  most  extensive  and  splendid  in  the  world,  not  excepting  the 
Gallery  at  Florence,  or  the  Louvre  at  Paris.  Several  days  were  in- 
dustriously employed  in  examining  its  various  compartments  ;  and  as 
many  months  might  be  passed  without  exhausting  their  interesting  con- 
tents. But  I  am  neither  an  artist  nor  an  amateur,  and  a  cursory  no- 
tice of  a  few  of  the  more  prominent  objects  will  alone  be  attempted. 
A  mere  specification  of  the  articles  in  the  Vatican  would  fill  a  volume, 
which  nobody  oi  course  would  read. 

The  entrance  is  by  the  Sala  Regia  or  Regal  Stair-way,  a  magnifi- 
cent flight  of  steps,  springing  from  the  Porch  of  St.  Peter's,  near  the 
equestrian  statue  of  Constantine,  and  leading  to  the  second  story  of  the 
palace.     First  in  the  labyrinth  of  apartments,*  which  soon  bewilder 


*  The  number  of  rooms  in  the  Vatican  is  said  to  be  thirteen  thousand,  and  the 
palace  to  cover  as  much  ground  as  the  city  of  Turin.  I  did  not  take  the  trouble 
to  count  the  one,  or  to  measure  the  area  of  the  other. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  ai9 

the  visitant,  and  render  either  a  pocket  compass  or  a  cicerone  indis- 
pensable, is  the  Sala  Regia  or  Royal  Hall.  It  is  filled  with  frescos  • 
and  lest  the  subjects  might  be  mistaken,  the  artists  have  adopted  the 
precaution  of  giving  long  explaiiatory  inscriptions  in  Latin.  These 
ornaments  are  in  no  other  respect  interesting,  than  as  illustrating  the 
prevailing  spirit  of  the  Popes.  The  scenes  delineated  are  all  of  a  tem- 
poral, proud,  imperious  character.  One  represents  the  triumphal 
entry  of  Gregory  XI.  into  Rome,  after  the  restoration  of  the  papal  see 
from  Avignon  ;  another,  Gregory  VII.  receiving  acts  of  humiliation 
trom  Henry  IV.;  a  third,  the  reconquest  of  Tunis  ;  and  a  fourth,  a 
victory  over  the  Turks  at  Lepanto. 

Expectation  was  on  tiptoe,  as  the  guide  ushered  us  into  the  Sistinc 
Chapel,  the  Sanctum  Sanctorum  of  papal  rites,  and  rendered  still 
more  sacred  in  the  eyes  of  ordinary  visiters,  by  the  genius  of  Michael 
Angelo.  This  may  be  denominated  the  chamber  of  his  peculiar  pre- 
sence, although  in  my  estimation,  it  is  very  far  from  being  the  throne 
of  his  glory.  Here  the  boldest,  the  most  daring  of  artists  attempted 
to  portray  the  sublimest  of  subjects — subjects  to  which  the  powers 
of  even  his  imagination  and  his  pencil  were  wholly  inadequate.  On 
the  ceiling  he  endeavoured  to  give  form  to  the  Most  High,  surrounded 
by  the  hosts  of  heaven  ;  and  the  western  wall  is  entirely  covered  with 
his  fresco  of  the  Last  Judgment,  to  which  he  devoted  three  of  the 
best  years  of  his  life.  It  is  a  melancholy  thought,  that  so  much  ta- 
lent and  so  much  skill  could  scarcely  redeem  iiis  efforts  from  ridicule  ; 
and  the  only  matter  of  astonishment  is,  that  such  a  mind  could  have 
been  so  mistaken  in  the  measure  of  its  capacity.  In  his  too  lofty  as- 
pirations, he  seems  to  have  been  led  astray  by  the  example  of  Dante,* 
venturing  to  follow  his  great  predecessor  through  the  depths  of  hell 
and  to  the  heights  of  heaven,  and  fancying  the  pencil  capable  of  deli- 
neating themes,  which  the  muse  had  successfully  sung.  But  how- 
ever nearly  allied  in  some  respects  are  the  kindred  arts  of  poetry  and 
painting,  the  former  may  sometimes  present  to  the  mind  those  shadowy 
images  of  thought,  which  the  latter  cannot  safely  embody  and  invest 
with  the  broader  light  of  vision.  The  speaking  shades  of  Virgil,  or 
the  warring  angels  of  Milton,  if  reduced  to  the  canvass  by  the  ablest 
artists,  would  be   no  better  than  caricatures.     Critics  have  selected 


*  That  the  artist  had  the  scenes  of  the  poet  in  his  eye,  is  evident  from  the  cir- 
cumstance of  the  former  havin»  adopted  the  mixed  theology  of  tlie  latter.  Dante 
in  his  Inferno  does  not  scruple  to  make  use  of  Charon  and  his  boat  to  ferry  over 
his  christian  ghosts ;  and  the  same  machinery  is  delineated  io  the  Last  Judg- 
ment. 


QZO  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

portions  of  this  celebrated  work,  on  which  they  have  lavished  extra- 
vagant praises.  Eustace  says  the  eye  of  the  Judge  "  flashes  hght- 
ning,"  as  he  pronounces  the  solemn  and  irrevocable  sentence  to  the 
damned.  Now,  to  say  nothing  of  the  impropriety  of  clothing  the  Sa- 
viour with  such  angry  and  revengeful  terrors,  the  classical  tourist  must 
have  possessed  uncommon  keenness  of  vision  to  discover  the  eye  of 
the  Judge  at  all,  without  the  aid  of  an  opera  glass,  defaced,  dingy, 
and  obscure  as  the  picture  is  at  present.  1  am  free  to  confess,  that  it 
appeared  to  me  a  chaos  of  wild,  incoherent,  and  ill-assorted  images, 
where  the  spirits  of  the  blessed  and  the  cursed  are  scarcely  distinguish- 
able ;  and  that  I  left  the  apartment  with  a  full  conviction,  that  if  this 
fresco  had  been  the  production  of  an  ordinary  artist,  nine  out  of  ten 
would  pass  it  over  unobserved,  or  treat  it  with  contempt.  But  the 
tenth  man  might  be  a  connoisseur,  and  descry  beauties  which  are  con- 
cealed from  vulgar  eyes.  It  would  certainly  be  less  of  a  miracle,  that 
even  ninety-nine  out  of  a  hundred  should  be  no  judges  of  painting, 
than  that  Michael  Angelo  should  be  three  years  engaged  on  a  single 
work,  without  producing  any  thing  worthy  of  admiration.  Such  at 
least  is  Hume's  rule  of  evidence. 

The  Paoline  Chapel,  near  the  Sistine,  built  by  Paul  III.  is  a  dusky, 
gloomy,  and  cheerless  shrine,  exhibiting  its  proud  decorations  to  very 
little  effect.  On  the  sides  of  the  altar  stand  two  beautiful  porphyry 
columns  which  were  taken  from  the  temple  of  Romulus  at  the  Forum, 
almost  literally  exemplifying  the  maxim  of  "  robbing  Peter  to  pay 
Paul."  Among  the  ornaments  is  a  rich  and  fantastic  tabernacle, 
wrought  of  pure  crystal  ;  but  such  is  its  position  in  an  obscure  corner, 
that  a  beam  of  light  seldom  reaches  and  pierces  the  translucent  gem. 
Here  also  are  two  pictures  by  Michael  Angelo — the  Conversion  of  St. 
Paul  and  the  Crucifixion  of  St.  Peter.  Owing  to  a  bad  light  and 
other  circumstances,  they  do  not  attract  much  attention. 

We  visited  the  celebrated  galleries  of  Raphael  several  times.  They 
open  on  three  sides  from  the  second  story  of  the  Palace  of  the  Pope, 
into  one  of  the  principal  courts  of  the  Vatican,  and  command  a  most 
enchanting  view  of  Rome  and  its  environs.  I  often  turned  from  the 
mimic  creation  of  Raphael,  to  the  sublimer  works  of  Nature  herself, 
presented  in  the  blue  summits  of  the  Alban  hills,  and  the  long  line  of 
mountains  beyond,  brightened  by  the  pure  azure  of  Italian  skies.  The 
ceiling  of  these  extensive  galleries,  stretching  to  the  distance  of  per- 
haps three  hundred  feet,  is  divided  into  numerous  compartments,  and 
covered  with  frescos  by  Raphael  and  his  scholars.  The  subjects  arc 
all  scriptural,  furnishing  a  series  of  illustrations  of  sacred  history,  from 
the  creation  of  the  world  to  the  crucifixion  of  the  Saviour,  arranged 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         321 

m  chronological  order.  This  Herculean  labour  was  undertaken  at  the 
request  or  perhaps  more  properly  by  tlic  injunction  of  Leo  X.  ;  and 
any  defects  in  the  design  arc  ascribable  to  the  Pope  rather  than  to  the 
artist.  The  latter  has  done  all  tiiat  mortal  could  do  with  such  subjects  ; 
but  even  his  inimitable  skill  has  failed  to  impart  a  very  high  degree  of 
interest  to  the  work,  any  farther  than  as  associated  with  his  imperisha- 
ble name.  In  looking  at  the  tiresome  compartments,  one  seems  to 
see  the  divine  artist  upon  the  scaffolding,  in  the  midst  of  his  pupils, 
toiling  at  his  daily  task,  with  a  sort  of  mechanical  indifference,  and 
attempting  contrary  to  his  own  judgment,  to  comply  with  the  wishes  of 
his  patron.  Such  will  always  be  the  effect,  when  genius  is  shackled 
with  authority,  and  is  not  left  free  to  follow  its  own  inspirations.  When 
was  a  good  poem  or  a  good  picture  produced  in  the  way  of  job-work, 
and  under  the  control  of  a  superior  ?  Raphael  was  never  so  great,  as 
•when  left  perfectly  to  himself,  exempt  alike  from  the  trammels  of  schools, 
and  the  impertinent  suggestions  of  Popes  and  Cardinals.  His  portrait 
of  La  Fornarina,  the  personification  of  his  feelings  and  affections,  has 
done  more  for  his  fame,  than  all  the  frescoed  walls,  which  papal  splcn- 
<lour  ever  called  into  being. 

Not  one  visitant  in  fifty,  except  mere  artists,  has  the  patience  to  ex- 
amine the  almost  innumerable  compartments  of  this  ceiling  minutely, 
although  the  whole  was  executed  under  the  immediate  superintendence 
of  the  greatest  master  of  any  age.  I  shall  not  be  at  the  pains  to  de- 
scribe what  others  scarcely  take  the  trouble  to  inspect.  The  com- 
mencement of  the  series  is  emphatically  his  own,  both  in  delineation 
and  colouring ;  and  here  his  bust  has  been  appropriately  placed,  at  the 
head  of  the  galleries.  His  creation  is  divided  into  four  sections :  the 
first  exhibits  a  view  of  chaos,  shapeless  and  void :  in  the  second, 
the  nascent  globe  appears  in  form,  emerging  from  darkness  and  confu- 
sion :  in  the  third,  trees  and  plants  are  seen  springing  forth  from  tlic 
earth  :  and  the  fourth  arrives  at  the  birth  of  animated  nature.  In  the 
attempted  delineation  of  scenes,  which  so  far  transcend  human  efforts, 
un  image  of  the  Creator  himself  is  presented  in  the  guise  of  an  old 
man,  sprawling  upon  tiie  ceiling,  busy  at  his  six-days  work  of  making 
a  world,  and  darting  his  strained  limbs  into  chaos,  to  separate  and  re- 
duce the  discordant  elements!  Can  there  be  a  greater  burlesque  upon 
the  simple  grandeur  of  the  scriptures — "  let  there  be  light,  and  there  was 
light?"  Yet  this  caricature,  (for  so  with  all  its  beauty  of  execution  it 
may  be  called,)  was  from  the  pencil  of  Raphael  himself.  Is  there  need 
of  farther  argument  to  dissuade  other  artists  from  similar  attempts,  and 
to  induce  them  to  circumscribe  tlicir  efforts  witliin  the  boundaries  of 
human  skill  ?     The  daring  flights  of  Italian  genius,  and  the  mad  pro- 

VOI,.    II.  1  I 


1 


323         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

sumption  of  approaching  the  throne  of  the  Eternal,  with  the  hope  of 
bringing  his  image  down  to  the  humble  conceptions  of  mortals,  have 
often  brought  to  my  mind  the  apostrophe  of  the  poet : 

"  Oh  sons  of  earth  1  attempt  ye  still  to  rise, 
By  mountains  piled  on  mountains  to  the  skies  ? 
Heaven  still  with  laughter  the  rude  toil  surveys, 
And  buries  madmen  in  the  heaps  they  raise." 

The  Chambers  of  Raphael  constitute  a  more  interesting  portion  of 
the  Vatican.  They  are  four  in  number,  opening  into  one  another  5 
and  the  walls  are  occupied  by  sixteen  separate  paintings  in  fresco,  all 
of  his  design,  and  a  large  proportion  of  them  executed  by  himself. 
The  dimensions  of  the  rooms  are  perhaps  twenty  feet  by  thirty,  pre- 
senting an  immense  area,  to  be  filled  as  the  tablets  of  his  exhaustless 
fancy.  These  taken  collectively  form  a  great  study  for  artists,  afford- 
ing an  almost  endless  variety  of  invention,  composition,  and  colouring  ; 
while  each  picture  delights  the  mere  visitant  by  some  peculiar  points 
of  excellence.  I  visited  the  chambers  repeatedly,  and  always  with  in- 
creased pleasure.  At  first  sight,  the  reality  did  not  equal  my  high 
anticipations.  The  apartments  do  not  enjoy  intrinsically  a  very  fa- 
vourable light ;  and  as  the  frescos  have  been  defaced  and  obscured  by 
the  hordes  of  northern  barbarians,  who  converted  the  halls  into  bar- 
racks, a  cursory  view  often  produces  disappointment,  and  close  atten- 
tion is  required  to  discover  all  their  merits.  In  the  choice  of  subjects, 
Raphael  was  here  left  more  free  to  follow  the  dictates  of  his  own  good 
sense,  and  the  impulse  of  his  superior  genius,  than  in  the  galleries 
projected  by  Leo ;  though  in  this  splendid  exhibition  of  talent,  a  con- 
nexion with  the  papal  court  is  visible,  and  its  malign  influence  has 
foisted  in  many  a  ridiculous  episode,  for  the  sake  of  giving  immortality 
to  Popes  and  their  parasites. 

The  four  pictures  in  the  first  hall  commemorate  the  military  achieve- 
ments and  the  religious  acts  of  Constantino  the  Great,  comprising  the 
vision  of  the  cross  and  his  harangue  to  his  army  before  the  victory 
over  Maxentius  ;  the  battle  of  the  Ponte  Molle,  alluded  to  in  a  former 
letter  ;  the  Baptism  of  the  first  Christian  emperor  at  the  font  of  St. 
John  Lateran  ;  and  the  Donation  of  patrimony  to  the  church.  All 
these  are  great  historical  events,  and  afforded  fine  themes  for  the  em- 
belhshments  of  the  pencil.  They  were  designed  by  Raphael,  but 
were  not  executed  till  after  his  death,  by  Julio  Romano,  his  favourite 
pupil.     Critics  consider  them  master-pieces  of  their  kind. 

The  second  apartment  is  peculiarly  interesting,  all  the  frescos  having 
been  designed  and  coloured  by  the  mighty  master  himself.     One  of 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  :323 

tiiese  is  illustrative  of  a  passage  in  tiie  book  of  Maccabees,  represent- 
ing the  overthrow  of  Ilcliodorus,  who  came  to  plunder  the  temple  at 
Jerusalem,  by  two  angels  and  a  warrior  mounted  upon  his  charger, 
sent  to  the  aid  of  Onias,  the  High  Priest.  The  forms,  the  speed,  the 
irresistible  power  of  the  celestial  messengers  in  executing  their  com- 
mission, are  admirably  conceived  and  expressed.  So  also  are  the 
horse  and  his  rider.  It  is  not  impossible,  that  Milton's  image  of  the 
Arch-Fiend,  "  half  on  foot,  half  flying,"  was  drawn  from  this  very 
picture  ;  for  either  angel,  rushing  onward  towards  Heliodorus, 

"  With  head,  huiids,  wing;s,  or  feet  pursues  his  Tvay," 

appearing  scarcely  to  touch  the  earth  in  the  rapidity  of  the  move- 
ment. 

The  subject  of  the  second  picture  in  this  room  is  the  Miracle  of 
Bolsena,  in  which  a  drop  of  blood  exudes  from  the  consecrated  W'afer, 
and  thus  removes  the  scepticism  of  a  priest,  who  till  then  doubted  the 
real  presence  of  the  Saviour  in  the  eucharist.  Sir  Edward  James 
Smith,  in  his  remarks  on  this  fresco,  intimates  that  the  wonder  was 
wrought  by  tlie  simple  machinery  of  "  a  currant  tart."  But  fortu- 
nately the  merits  of  the  painting  do  not  depend  on  the  truth  of  the 
story.  The  representation  is  admirable,  and  embodies  the  spirit  of 
the  papal  court  in  that  age.  Pope  Julius  II.  is  present,  but  does  not 
turn  his  head,  as  if  a  miracle  was  an  ordinary  event,  and  to  be  ex- 
pected as  a  matter  of  course,  for  the  conviction  of  unbelievers.  His 
attendants  manifest  the  same  indifference,  lest  they  should  lead  the 
amazed  multitude  to  believe,  that  such  prodigies  are  of  rare  occur- 
rence with  the  faithful.  The  whole  design  is  a  severe  satire  upon  his 
Holiness,  although  it  was  not  probably  so  intended,  as  he  was  intro- 
duced by  particular  request. 

A  third  picture  in  the  same  apartment  represents  Attila  arrested  in 
his  march  against  Rome,  by  discovering  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul  de- 
scending from  heaven  to  oppose  his  progress.  The  army  are  uncon- 
scious of  the  vision  ;  and  the  aerial  phantom  bears  a  strong  resem- 
blance to  the  dagger  scene  in  the  tragedy  of  Macbeth.  There  is  a 
beautiful  bas-relief  representation  of  the  same  subject,  on  the  tomb 
of  one  of  the  Popes  in  St.  Peter's.  The  fourth  wall  of  this  room  is 
occupied  by  the  fresco,  on  which  Dr.  Bell  and  others  have  lavished  so 
many  praises — the  Release  of  St.  Peter  from  prison  by  an  Angel.  If 
a  criticism  may  be  hazarded  upon  a  work,  which  others  have  pro- 
nounced faultless,  I  should  say  there  is  a  want  of  unity  in  the  action. 
A  picture  can  represent  but  a  moment  of  time  ;  yet  the  Angel  here 
first  awakens  the  Apostle  out  of  sleep,  and  afterwards  is  seen  con- 


:?-24  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

ducting  him  from  prison.  The  execution  is  worthy  of  all  the  ap- 
plause it  has  received  ;  and  the  management  of  the  light  and  shade  is 
perhaps  unrivalled. 

I  hardly  dare  proceed  with  even  a  brief  analysis  of  these  celebrated 
frescos  ;  and  yet  there  are  some  others  which  ought  not  to  be  passed 
over  in  silence.  Of  the  School  of  Athens  every  one  has  heard,  and 
the  universality  of  its  fame  does  not  transcend  its  intrinsic  merits .  In 
the  assembled  multitude  of  Grecian  sages,  no  two  heads  are  in  the 
least  alike,  and  so  distinctly  marked  is  the  expression  of  each,  as  to 
amount  to  a  philosophical  personification  of  character,  where  the  te- 
nets of  each  sect  may  be  read.  Even  the  temple,  in  which  the  gather- 
ed wisdom  of  Athens  is  exhibited,  possesses  a  high  degree  of  interest ; 
as  it  is  a  copy  of  the  original  design  for  St.  Peter's,  by  Bramante  and 
Michael  Angelo. 

Two  of  the  remaining  pictures  in  this  chamber  are  filled  with  alle- 
gorical figures,  and  present  comparatively  few  attractions  ;  but  the 
fourth  is  one  of  the  most  amusing  in  the  whole  collection.  It  repre- 
.sents  Parnassus,  and  expresses  Raphael's  scale  of  poetic  merit.  On 
the  summit  of  the  Mount  stands  Homer,  in  the  guise  of  an  improvisa- 
tore,  pouring  forth  rhapsodies,  accompanied  by  Apollo  on  the  violin  ! 
The  latter  is  surrounded  by  the  tuneful  circle  of  the  Muses.  Old  Mae- 
onides  is  supported  on  the  right  by  Dante,  and  on  the  left  by  Virgil, 
upon  the  same  level  with  their  great  prototype.  The  artist  has  taken 
the  liberty  of  placing  himself  in  this  group  of  kindred  spirits ;  a  rank 
to  which  he  is  fairly  entitled  by  his  genius,  though  the  apotheosis  had 
perhaps  with  more  propriety  been  left  to  others.  To  the  relative  ele- 
vation of  some  of  the  poets,  a  classical  scholar  might  feel  disposed  to 
object.  Tibullus,  though  high  on  the  mountain,  is  not  perhaps  placed 
above  his  merits ;  but  why  are  Pindar  and  Horace  degraded  below 
Ovid  and  Boccacio  ? — Petrarch  and  Laura  are  happily  introduced,  still 
enamoured  of  the  shade  ;  while  Sappho  sits  near,  holding  the  lyre  and 
listening  to  their  loves. 

The  paintings  in  the  fourth  room  represent  the  victory  over  the  Sa- 
racens at  Ostia  ;  the  Coronation  of  Charlemagne  by  one  of  the  Popes  ; 
the  oath  taken  in  the  presence  of  that  monarch  by  Leo  III. ;  and  the 
Fire  in  the  Borgo  San  Spirito,  near  the  Vatican.  Of  these  the  last  is 
by  far  the  finest,  and  has  been  reckoned  one  of  the  greatest  works  of 
the  immortal  artist.  In  every  particular,  it  is  true  to  nature,  and  parts 
of  it  are  in  the  highest  degree  pathetic  ;  such  as  the  frantic  supplica- 
tions of  females,  and  a  young  man,  iEneas  like,  rescuing  from  the 
flames  his  aged  father.  It  is  gratifying  to  observe  with  what  religious 
veneration  these  frescos  are  now  preserved,  and  with  how  much  enthu- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        325 

siasm  tliey  are  studied  and  admired.  I  never  found  or  left  the  rooms 
destitute  of  a  crowd  of  visitants.  Such  is  the  homage  paid  to  the 
divinity  of  genius. 

Another  department  of  the  Vatican,  comprising  a  suite  of  half  a 
dozen  chambers,  contains  a  small  but  choice  collection  of  pictures  by 
the  first  masters.  The  most  celebrated  of  these  is  the  Transfigura- 
tion, by  Raphael,  the  merits  of  which  have  in  my  opinion  been  greatly 
overrated.  Truth  compels  me  to  confess,  that  it  afforded  me  very  lit- 
tle pleasure — far  less  than  many  of  the  minor  piuces  of  the  same  art- 
ist. My  disappointment  was  perhaps  in  part  owing  as  usual  to  ex- 
aggerated expectations.  Yet  it  appeared  to  me  there  are  intrinsic  and 
obvious  defects  in  the  design,  the  composition,  and  expression.  It 
is  a  well  known  principle,  that  in  every  picture  there  should  be  some 
leading  feature,  some  prominent  point,  to  which  all  other  parts  ought 
to  be  rendered  subordinate  and  accessory.  There  is  a  gross  violation 
of  this  rule  in  the  Transfiguration.  The  action  is  broken,  and  unsub- 
dued, and  the  mind  of  the  spectator  is  distracted  by  contending 
groups.  In  such  a  scene,  one  might  naturally  expect  that  the  Sa- 
viour, with  his  countenance  like  lightning  and  his  raiment  white  as 
snow,  would  be  the  most  conspicuous  figure.  But  this  is  not  the  case. 
In  the  multitude  at  the  base  of  the  mountain,  forming  the  largest  sec- 
tion of  the  piece,  a  maniac  boy,  convulsed  and  distorted  with  mad- 
ness, forces  himself  upon  the  eye,  and  prevents  it  from  rising  to  what 
should  be  the  principal  object  of  attention — the  transformation  of  the 
Saviour.  Raphael  seldom  "  o'ersteps  the  modesty  of  nature  ;"  but 
in  this  instance,  his  maniac  is  characterized  by  all  the  wildness  and  ex- 
travagance of  Domenichino.  The  figure  is  so  overwrought,  as  to  be- 
come, Uke  the  Ophelia  of  West,  an  object  of  horror  and  disgust.  Nor 
does  the  scene  upon  the  mount,  filling  the  upper  part  of  the  canvass, 
display  much  grandeur  of  conception.  Its  glories  are  but  feebly,  not 
to  say  awkwardly,  represented.  The  Saviour  is  poised  in  air,  with 
Moses  and  Elias  at  his  side.  To  the  celestial  figure  and  self-balanced 
position  of  the  former,  the  mind  of  the  spectator  is  readily  reconciled  ; 
but  the  heavy-moulded  persons  of  the  two  attendants,  treading  upon 
vacuity,  appear  in  most  unnatural  and  constrained  attitudes.  Such 
miraculous  buoyancy  does  not  seem  to  be  authorised  or  required  by 
the  words  of  the  Evangelist ;  and  I  can  perceive  no  reason  why  the 
divine  trio  might  not  with  more  propriety  have  stood  upon  terra 
firma. 

Of  the  other  rare  pictures  in  this  gallery,  the  most  remarkable  are 
the  Madonna  di  Foligno,  and  the  Coronation  of  the  Madonna,  by 
Raphael;  the  Crucifi.xion  of  St.  Peter,  by  Guido ;  the  Incredulity  of 


3-26  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

St.  Thomas,  and  a  Magdalen,  by  Guercino  ;  a  Holy  Family,  by  Ca- 
ravaggio  ;  a  Madonna  and  Saints,  ascribed  to  Titian  ;  the  Communion 
of  St.  Jerome,  by  Domenichino.  These  are  all  gems.  The  two  first 
and  the  last  are  inimitable  productions.  Most  of  them  have  crossed 
the  Alps  and  attracted  crowds  of  admirers  to  the  Louvre,  where  they 
remained  till  the  restoration  of  the  Bourbons.  The  apartments  in 
which  they  are  at  present  deposited,  are  open  to  the  public  twice  a 
week,  and  at  all  times  accessible  to  artists,  to  whom  every  facility  is 
afforded  for  taking  copies  and  prosecuting  their  professional  pursuits. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        327 

LETTER  LXXIII. 

ROME    CO^'TI^■UED VATICAN   MUSEUM LIBRABIT — OABDEN — SKETCH 

OF   THE   PRESENT  POPE. 

Jum^  1826. 

The  Chiaramonti  and  Pio-Clemontino  Museums  at  the  Vatican  are  so 
extensive,  and  contain  such  an  infinite  variety  of  articles,  that  I  almost 
recoil  from  the  task  of  retracing  the  labyrinth  of  sumptuous  saloons, 
and  of  attempting  to  give  even  so  much  as  a  desultory  notice  of  their 
splendid  treasures.  In  comparison  with  this  display  of  papal  magni- 
ficence, the  halls  of  the  Louvre,  the  galleries  of  Florence,  and  the 
Studii  at  Naples  are  but  toy-shops.  Here  are  not  less  than  fifty  apart- 
ments, or  more  properly  superb  temples  of  the  arts,  of  different  sizes 
and  the  most  beautiful  forms  ;  sometimes  opening  immediately  into 
another,  and  at  others,  connected  by  long  corridors,  presenting  the 
finest  vistas  imaginable  ;  with  pavements  of  the  richest  mosaic,  walls 
lined  with  pillars  of  porphyry,  alabaster,  and  Parian  marble,  and  roofs 
bright  with  azure  and  gold ;  all  filled  with  the  choicest  collections  of 
antiquities,  sculptures,  busts,  and  statues.  Several  visits  are  required, 
to  catch  even  a  hasty  glance  at  the  innumerable  objects,  which  chal- 
lenge attention  and  bewilder  the  mind  of  the  spectator. 

The  entrance  to  the  Museum  is  from  the  quarter  of  the  Vatican  de- 
nominated the  Belvidere,  through  a  gallery  something  like  a  thousand 
feet  in  length,  and  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  in  width,  the  walls  of  which 
are  lined  from  the  floor  to  the  ceihng  with  ancient  inscriptions.  Those 
on  the  right  are  taken  from  the  tombs,  tablets,  and  sarcophagi  of  the 
old  Romans  ;  while  those  upon  the  left  were  chiefly  found  in  the  ca- 
tacombs, and  relate  to  the  early  christians.  The  original  fragments 
of  marble  are  arranged  with  care,  and  firmly  fixed,  so  as  to  form  the 
permanent  facing  of  the  wall.  What  a  volume  of  private  history,  con- 
taining a  thousand  minute  particulars,  illustrative  of  the  early  ages,  to 
be  obtained  from  no  other  sources,  is  here  opened  to  the  scholar  and 
antiquary  !  What  a  commentary,  too,  on  the  vanities  of  Ufe  do  these 
shattered  remnants  of  sepulchral  monuments  afford  ;  where  a  mutila- 
ted epitaph  or  the  record  of  a  name  furnishes  the  only  trace  of  the  for- 
gotten dead  !     All  else  respecting  them  has  perished. 

Having  traversed  this  Campo  Santo  of  the  Vatican,  consecrated  ex- 


328        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

clusively  to  the  Dis  Manibus,*  the  traveller  who  has  set  out  on  the 
interesting  journey  of  the  rounds  of  the  Museum,  arrives  at  an  iron- 
railing,  extending  across  the  hall,  with  a  gate  under  lock  and  key, 
which  is  opened  only  twice  a  week  to  the  public.  We  have  just  pass- 
ed a  section  of  the  gallery,  where  names  are  found  without  works,  and 
we  now  stumble  at  every  step  upon  works  without  names — wrecks  of 
other  ages,  which  have  floated  unlabelled  down  the  stream  of  time, 
while  the  records  and  honours  of  authorship  have  all  been  lost.  On 
both  sides  of  the  hall  extend  long  ranges  of  antique  statues,  busts, 
hermes,  bas-reliefs,  urns,  and  sarcophagi,  of  the  richest  materials 
and  the  most  finished  workmanship.  Apartment  opens  after  apart- 
ment, where  under  the  auspices  of  munificent  Pontiffs,  the  divinities  of 
antiquity  repose  in  more  sumptuous  alcoves,  than  they  enjoyed  in  the 
day  of  their  glory,  and  imperial  heads  are  mounted  upon  prouder  pe- 
destals, than  they  ever  found  in  the  palaces  of  the  Caesars. 

The  celebrated  Group  of  the  Nile,  consisting  of  a  recumbent  river- 
god  surrounded  by  Cupids  and  the  emblems  of  fertility,  occupies  a 
splendid  hall  to  which  it  gives  name,  and  which  is  among  the  richest 
in  ancient  statues.  In  its  centre  stands  a  magnificent  bronze  vase, 
wrought  with  exquisite  skill.  Silenus  nursing  the  infant  Bacchus  is  an 
inimitable  work.  So  also  is  the  Minerva  Medica,  bearing  the  emblem 
of  the  healing  art.  The  bust  of  Sallust,  and  statues  of  Euripides  and 
Pindar  claim  attention.  But  I  must  not  linger  at  the  threshold,  to  ex- 
amine the  heads  of  historians  and  poets,  while  so  many  objects  of  higher 
interest  beckon  me  onward. 

The  Belvidere  Torso,  so  much  admired  and  studied  by  Michael 
Angelo,  can  afford  little  pleasure  to  any  one,  except  a  connoisseur  or 
an  artist,  as  nothing  but  the  trunk  and  thighs  remain.  It  is  supposed 
to  be  the  fragment  of  a  Hercules,  executed  by  Apollonius  of  Athens, 
whose  name  it  bears,  and  to  have  once  adorned  the  theatre  of  Pompey. 
In  the  vestibule  which  contains  the  Torso,  are  to  be  seen  the  sarco- 
phagus and  bust  of  Lucius  Cornelius  Scipio  Barbatus,  taken  from  the 
tomb  of  that  illustrious  family,  alluded  to  in  one  of  my  previous  letters. 
There  is  a  character  of  rude  unostentatious  grandeur  and  republican 
simplicity  about  these  memorials  of  the  dead,  which  exalts  them  above 
the  tawdry  decorations  of  later  times.  The  material  is  of  peperino,  a 
common  kind  of  stone  used  for  building,  and  the  sole  object  of  these 


*  All  the  sepulchral  monuments  of  the  Romans  were  inscribed  with  the  initials 
D.  M. — to  the  infernal  deities — for  the  purpose  of  deterring  the  living  from  disturb- 
in*  the  ashes  of  the  dead. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  ;j2!) 

stern  monuments  seems  to  have  been,  to  designate  tlie  ashes  and  per- 
petuate the  name  of  a  great  man.  There  could  indeed  have  been  no 
other  motive  ;  for  it  will  be  remembered,  that  the  Tomb  of  the  Scipios 
was  a  plain  subterranean  vault,  like  that  of  our  own  immortal  Wash- 
ington at  Mount  ^'ernon,  with  no  imperial  mausoleum  towering  to  the 
skies,  to  court  the  admiration  of  the  passenger. 

From  the  corridor  which  looks  into  one  of  the  twenty  spacious 
courts  of  the  Vatican,  I  saw  a  beautiful  model  of  a  ship  in  bronze, 
floating  on  the  undulations  of  the  fountain  below.  Here  also  is  depo- 
sited a  sun-dial  of  the  old  Romans,  on  which  time  is  measured  accord- 
ing to  the  ancient  mode  of  computation.  From  this  point,  objects  of 
interest  thicken  upon  the  observer  at  every  step.  A  magnificent  vase 
of  Grecian  marble,  found  in  one  of  the  Roman  Baths,  possesses  all 
the  elegance  of  form  and  finish,  which  skill  and  taste  can  impart  to 
the  finest  material.  In  an  adjoining  apartment  is  a  statue  of  Meleaoer, 
attended  by  his  dog  and  the  fabled  boar  of  Calydon.  This,  however, 
is  not  the  far-famed  statue  of  the  same  name,  which  was  so  much 
admired  under  the  title  of  the  Belvidere  Antinous,  till  the  sagacious 
Winkelman,  that  prince  of  antiquaries,  detected  the  misnomer  and 
proved  it  to  be  a  Meleagcr.  The  latter  is  farther  on  in  the  gallery,  and 
deserves  all  the  enthusiastic  admiration,  which  its  symmetrical  form  and 
its  calm,  unaffected  expression  have  called  forth. 

The  elegant  little  temple  denominated  the  first  cabinet,  contains  the 
Perseus  and  the  Boxers  of  Canova,  which  are  almost  the  only  modern 
statues  to  be  found  in  this  immense  collection ;  a  signal  honour,  though 
conferred  perhaps  less  from  an  acknowledgment  of  his  pre-eminent 
claims  as  an  artist,  than  on  account  of  his  invaluable  services  in  the 
arrangement  of  the  Museum.  There  are  those,  even  among  his  disci- 
ples and  friends,  who  believe  that  the  merits  of  the  man,  styled  by  some 
the  Phidias  of  his  age,  have  been  overrated,  and  will  not  be  accredited 
to  their  full  amount  by  an  impartial  posterity.  A  distinguished  pupil 
of  his — one  who  reveres  his  memory  and  cherishes  his  fame — expressed 
to  me  an  opinion,  that  there  is  an  artist  riow  at  Rome,  whose  talent  is 
of  a  higher  cast  than  Canova  ever  possessed.  But  it  docs  not  become 
one  so  little  versed  in  the  arts  as  myself,  to  sit  in  judgment  on  the  living 
and  the  dead.  There  is  perhaps  some  ground  for  the  remark,  that 
Canova  laboured  too  much  to  produce  effect ;  that  his  statues,  if  the 
expression  may  be  allowed,  are  too  theatrical  in  their  attitudes,  and 
wanting  in  that  unaffected  ease  and  simplicity,  which  characterize  tlic 
productions  of  the  Grecian  chisel.  The  works  of  any  modern  artist, 
whatever  may  be  his  merits,  must  suffer  by  a  comparison  with  the 
master-pieces  of  antiquity  ;  and  the  Perseus  and  Boxers  of  Canova 

VOL.  II.  42 


330         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

are  severely  put  to  the  test,  by  being  placed  in  contiguity  with  the 
group  of  Laocoon  and  the  Belvidere  Apollo. 

Much  as  I  had  heard  of  the  former  of  these  immortal  works,  the 
half  had  not  been  told  me  and  the  reality  far  exceeded  my  expecta- 
tions. It  is  utterly  impossible  to  convey  either  by  words  or  copies  an 
adequate  idea  of  the  original,  which  in  my  opinion  is  the  ne  plus  ultra 
of  human  art,  and  the  next  step  to  creative  power.  Never  was  greater 
force  of  expression  imparted  to  inanimate  matter,  which  is  here  invested 
with  all  the  attributes  of  feeling  and  suftering,  except  the  vital  principle 
itself.  Every  school-boy,  who  has  read  Virgil  or  heard  of  the  Trojan 
horse,  is  familiar  with  the  story  of  Laocoon.  It  is  indeed  highly  pro- 
bable, that  the  poet  drew  his  animated  description  of  the  ill-fated  son 
of  Priam  from  this  very  statue,  which  is  satisfactorily  proved  to  have 
existed  long  before  the  ^neid  was  written.  Pliny  states  it  to  be  the 
joint  production  of  three  artists  of  Rhodes,  who  lived  four  hundred 
years  before  the  Christian  era.  It  was  considered  in  his  time  as  the 
greatest  work  of  the  kind,  either  in  statuary  or  painting.  His  account 
of  it  leaves  it  in  the  Palace  of  Titus ;  and  it  was  found  in  the  Baths  of 
that  emperor,  in  the  16th  century.  The  right  arm  was  missing,  which 
Michael  Angelo  attempted  to  restore,  but  could  not  satisfy  himself,  and 
after  several  trials  gave  up  the  undertaking.  A  higher  comphment 
could  not  have  been  paid  to  the  merits  of  the  original.  The  defect 
was  supplied  by  a  cast  of  Bernini.  Laocoon  and  his  two  sons,  with  a 
host  of  other  antiques  in  this  Museum,  paid  their  court  to  Napoleon, 
and  for  several  years  enriched  the  collections  of  the  Louvre.  More 
copies  of  it  are  to  be  found  than  of  any  other  work,  and  it  may  fairly 
be  considered  as  the  finest  group  of  statuary  now  in  existence. 

The  Belvidere  Apollo,  that  beautiful  idol  at  whose  shrine  thousands 
have  worshipped,  and  whose  praises  have  been  hymned  with  as  much 
enthusiasm  by  modern  amateurs,*  as  they  once  were  by  the  circle  of 


■*  Winkelman  concludes  his  elaborate  description  of  this  statue  with  the  follow- 
ing rhapsody : 

"  When  I  behold  this  prodig;y  of  art,  I  forget  all  the  universe ;  I  assume  a  more 
dignified  attitude,  to  be  worthy  to  contemplate  it.  From  admiration  I  pass  into 
ecstacy.  Penetrated  with  respect,  I  feel  my  bosom  heave  and  dilate  itself,  as  in 
those  filled  with  the  spirit  of  prophecy.  I  am  transported  to  Dales,  and  the  sacred 
groves  of  Lycia,  once  honoured  by  the  presence  of  the  god  ;  for  the  beauty  before 
me  seems  to  acquire  motion, like  that  produced  of  old  by  the  chisel  of  Pygmalion. 
How  is  it  possible  to  describe  thee,  thou  inimitable  master-piece,  unless  I  had  the 
help  of  ancient  science  itself  to  inspire  me,  and  guide  my  pen !  I  lay  at  thy  feet 
the  sketch  I  have  rudely  attempted ;  as  those  who  cannot  reach  the  brows  of  the 


LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE.        .']31 

the  Muses,  received  no  servile  act  of  homage  from  me.  I  walked 
erect  into  his  presence,  with  as  stubborn  a  republican  knee,  as  was  some- 
times preserved  in  my  approaches  to  his  Holiness,  while  the  multitude 
were  prostrate  upon  the  pavement.*  His  pretensions  to  divinity,  (I 
mean  Apollo,  and  not  Leo  XH.)  are  unobtrusive,  and  certainly  at  the 
first  glance  the  god  does  not  stand  confessed.  There  is  not  so  much 
of  majesty  in  the  face,  form  or  attitude,  as  one  might  expect  to  find  in 
the  son  of  Jove,  with  the  attributes  ascribed  to  him  by  Homer.  The 
predominant  character  of  the  statue  appeared  to  ine  to  be  that  of  beauty, 
rather  than  of  dignity  or  grandeur.  Its  height  is  but  little  above  the 
human  stature;  its  proportions  symmetrical  and  manly,  without  any 
tension  of  muscles,  or  affected  exhibition  of  strength  ;  and  its  position 
is  hght,  easy,  and  graceful.  My  obtuse  perceptions  were  unable  to  de- 
tect in  the  features  and  the  expression  of  the  face  any  of  those  super- 
human traits — that  "beautiful  disdain,"  which  Byron  discovers  in  the 
eye,  and  which  W'inkehnan  finds  seated  on  the  lip.  The  poet  and 
antiquary  are  here  sadly  at  variance,  as  to  the  locus  in  quo.  The  latter 
says  that  "  his  eye  is  all  sweetness,  as  if  he  were  now  surrounded  by 
the  Muses,  eager  to  offer  him  their  caressing  homage."  Madam  Starke 
concludes  her  description  of  the  statue  with  the  remark,  that  "  it  exhi- 
bits all  the  masculine  beauty,  grace,  and  dignity,  with  which  we  may 
suppose  Adam  to  have  been  adorned  before  the  fall'.''''  This  opinion 
approximates  somewhat  to  that  of  Sir  Benjamin  West,  who  thought 
it  an  exact  model  of  the  North  American  Indian.  But  not  to  detail 
all  the  ridiculous  things  that  have  been  said  of  rf^e  Belvidere  Apollo, 
it  is  doubtless  a  work  of  transcendant  merit,  and  the  unknown  art- 


Jivinity  they  adore,  offer  at  its  footstool  the  garhmcls  with  which  they  would  fain 
have  crowned  its  head." 

Such  is  the  enthusiastic  apostrophe  of  a  grave  antiquary.  It  is  the  merest  rant, 
and  rant  too  with  not  even  the  merit  of  originalit)'. 

For  Lord  Byron's  beautiful  hymn  to  the  Apollo  Belvidere,  the  reader  is  referred 
to  the  4th  Canto  of  ChilJe  Harold. 

*  1  was  sometimes  extremely  embarrassed  to  know  what  to  do,  when  the  Pope 
was  coming,  and  the  crowd  cowered  to  earth  like  a  flock  of  pigeons.  To 
kneel  to  a  mortal  was  contrary  to  my  feelings ;  and  to  stand  upright  while  others 
knelt,  looked  like  singularity  and  ill  manners.  The  old  adage, "  when  you  are  with 
the  Romans,  do  as  the  Romans  do,"  furnishes  perhaps  the  best  general  rule  of  con- 
duct in  a  foreign  country.  A  pleasant  anecdote  is  related  of  Horace  Walpole,  in 
his  visit  to  Italy.  As  he  entered  the  door  of  the  Pope's  apartment  at  the  Vatican, 
and  stood  hesitating  whether  he  would  conform  to  tlie  usual  act  of  humiliation, 
the  aged  Pontiff  «bserved  his  embarrassment  and  relieved  it  by  saying — "  Kneel,  my 
son,  and  receive  the  blessing  of  an  old  man  :  it  can  do  yon  no  liarm." 


332        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

ist,*  who  may  almost  be  said  to  have  breathed  into  its  nostrils  the  breath 
ofhfe,  has  furnished  a  beautiful  illustration  of  the  ancient  fable,  alluded 
to  in  the  following  passage  of  Childe  Harold : 

"  And  if  it  be  Prometheus  stole  from  Heaven 

The  fire  which  we  endure,  it  was  repaid 

By  him  to  whom  the  energy  was  given, 

Which  this  poetic  marble  bath  array 'd 

"With  an  eternal  glory — which,  if  made 

By  human  hands,  is  not  of  human  thought ; 

And  Time  himself  htilh  hallowed  it,  nor  laid 

One  ringlet  in  the  dust — nor  halh  it  caught 

A  tinge  of  years,  but  breathes  the  flame  with  which  'twas  v.-roiight." 

The  Hall  of  Animals  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  and  instructive 
departments  of  the  Museum.  It  is  a  spacious  and  splendid  temple, 
with  vestibules  supported  by  granite  pillars,  and  pavements  studded 
with  ancient  mosaics.  The  variety  of  marbles  and  precious  stones, 
from  which  the  animals  are  sculptured,  furnishes  not  the  least  splendid 
and  valuable  part  of  the  exhibition.  Here  are  assembled  all  the  most 
costly  materials,  which  the  quarries  of  the  east  could  afford.  Much 
taste  is  displayed  in  adapting  the  colour  of  the  stone  to  the  complexion 
of  the  quadrupeds  ;  as  also  in  expressing  the  habits  of  the  latter,  by 
concomitant  circumstances.  For  instance,  one  lion  is  in  the  attitude 
of  devouring  a  horse  ;  another  holds  a  bull's  head  in  his  claw's  ;  a  dog 
appears  upon  the  back  of  a  stag ;  and  the  stork  bears  a  serpent  in  its 
mouth.  In  this  rich  and  beautiful  collection  I  found  ample  confirma- 
tion of  the  justness  of  a  remark  made  in  a  former  letter,  that  the  exact- 
ness with  which  the  ancients  delineated  tlie  forms  of  animals,  furnishes 
the  strongest  evidence  of  their  accuracy,  in  transmitting  to  posterity 
the  likenesses  of  great  men. 

The  visitant  is  now  introduced  into  a  suite  of  rooms,  filled  with  as 
numerous  and  as  stately  a  conclave  of  the  gods,  as  ever  convened  in 
the  chambers  of  the  skies,  and  canopied  by  firmaments  as  starry  and 
brilliant.  Jove  is  seated  in  the  midst,  grasping  the  lightning  in  his 
hand,  and  exhibiting  the  stormy  terrors  of  his  brow.  Juno  sustains 
the  character  of  the  imperious  queen  of  Heaven.  Neptune  lifts  his 
trident — Pallas  stands  in  massive  panoply — and  Minerva  extends  the 
olive  of  peace.     Here  too  is  the  whole  court  of  pleasure  and  love — 


*  This  statue  was  found  in  the  15th  century  at  Antium,  a  seaport  thirty  miles 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Tiber,  and  is  supposed  to  have  been  brougljt  thither  by  the 
emperor  Nero,  a  native  of  that  place,  on  his  return  from  Greece. 


LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE.        rjl;! 

A'^enus  and  Diana,  with  their  paramours,  Adonis  and  Endymion  by  their 
sides — Fauns  clanking  tlicir  cymbals — Bacchantes,  with  their  brows 
twined  with  garlands,  reehng  through  the  dance — and  nymphs  reposing 
in  voluptuous  dreams. 

One  apartment  is  appropriated  exclusively  to  the  quire  of  the  Muses 
and  their  distinguished  votaries.  The  former  were  found  in  the  villa 
of  Cassius,  at  'I'ivoli.  They  are  arranged  with  much  taste,  each  bear- 
ing her  characteristic  symbol.  Two  of  them,  Melpomene  and  Thalia, 
are  particularly  beautiful.  Apollo  appears  in  the  midst  of  them,  array- 
ed in  his  theatrical  habit.  Among  the  poets  are  Homer,  in  the  attitude 
of  singing  to  Minerva,  Sophocles,  Euripides,  Sappho,  Virgil,  Tasso, 
and  Ariosto.  Many  of  the  preceding,  and  hundreds  of  others  not 
mentioned  at  all,  are  first  rate  productions  of  the  Grecian  School,  pro- 
bably constituting  the  richest  collection  of  statuary  in  the  world. 

The  ornaments  of  the  rooms  are  magnificent  beyond  description. 
In  the  centre  of  the  Rotunda  stands  a  porphyry  basin  forty-two  feet 
in  circumference  ;  and  scattered  over  the  Museum,  are  several  colossal 
.sarcophagi  of  the  same  material.  I  observed  a  large  chair,  used  by 
some  of  the  former  Popes,  which  is  composed  of  red  antique — a  spe- 
cies of  stone  of  much  finer  grain,  and  more  rare  than  porphyry.  The 
decorations  of  black  antique,  and  red  granite  are  also  beautiful.  On 
some  of  the  ancient  mosaics,  the  battle  of  the  Lapithae,  the  head  of 
Medusa,  Pallas  with  her  a;gis,  and  other  classical  fables  are  portrayed. 
From  the  vestibule  denominated  the  Greek  Cross,  one  of  the  two  hun- 
dred flights  of  steps  at  the  Vatican  leads  to  a  saloon  above,  in  which 
is  deposited  an  ancient  biga)  or  chariot,  of  white  marble,  drawn  by 
two  horses.  It  is  an  elegant  piece  of  workmanship,  and  valuable  to 
the  scholar  in  furnishing  illustrations  of  the  classics. 

A  gallery  more  than  a  thousand  feet  in  length,  and  divided  into  eight 
or  ten  sections  by  iron-railings,  is  appropriated  to  an  infinite  variety  of 
candelabra,  vases,  cinerary  urns,  sarcophagi,  and  other  rare  antiquities. 
The  walls  of  one  of  the  sections  are  covered  with  geographical  deli- 
neations of  the  papal  territories,  executed  in  the  16th  century,  by  order 
of  Pope  Gregory  XIII.  The  beautiful  plan  of  St.  Peter's,  as  originally 
designed  by  Michael  Angelo,  also  arrested  my  attention.  It  is  in  all 
respects  superior  to  the  present  model.  Guido's  fresco  of  the  Descent 
of  the  Holy  Ghost,  on  the  ceiling  of  an  adjoining  chamber  hung  with 
tapestry,  deserves  examination,  although  it  is  not  in  his  happiest  style. 
Thus  have  I  made  the  circuit  of  this  princely  Museum,  and  noted  some 
of  the  principal  objects  it  contains.  It  is  a  proud  monument  of  the 
resources,  liberality,  and  munificence  of  the  Pontiflfs,  and  its  treasures 


354        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

have  been  among  the  most  powerful  means  of  drawing  thousands  of 
strangers  to  Rome. 

The  Library  of  the  Vatican  is  on  a  scale  proportioned  to  the  extent 
and  magnificence  of  its  other  departments.  It  is  contained  in  three 
spacious  halls,  situated  between  the  two  wings  of  the  Museum,  whence 
it  is  approached.  The  principal  apartment,  in  which  are  deposited 
forty  thousand  rare  manuscripts,  is  two  liundred  feet  long  and  fifty 
■wide,  with  a  ceiling  glittering  with  gold  and  ornamented  with  frescos. 
Among  the  splendid  furniture  are  tables  of  granite,  supported  by  gilt 
caryatides  ;  celestial  and  terrestrial  globes  of  the  most  beautiful  work- 
manship ;  a  column  of  transparent  alabaster  ;  and  a  sarcophagus  of 
Parian  H)arble,  with  a  winding-sheet  of  asbestos.  The  books  and 
manuscripts  are  all  kept  out  of  sight,  under  lock  and  key,  in  presses 
ranged  round  the  walls.  Many  of  the  most  ancient  and  curious  works 
were  taken  out  of  the  cases  by  the  librarian  for  our  inspection.  Of 
these  was  a  copy  of  the  scriptures  in  a  folio  so  large,  as  to  require  two 
men  to  lift  it  upon  the  table — versions  of  the  bible  in  several  languages 
and  of  as  early  a  date  as  the  6th  century  ;  also  copies  on  rolls  of 
parchment — transcripts  of  Pliny,  with  delineations  of  animals  descri- 
bed by  him,  and  of  Virgil,  witli  costumes  of  the  Latins  and  Trojans, 
all  done  with  a  pen  in  the  5th  century — manuscript  copy  of  Dante — 
original  correspondence  between  Henry  VIIL  and  Anne  Boleyn,  with 
numerous  other  literary  curiosities,  which  time  will  not  permit  me  to 
specify.  The  penalty  of  excommunication  is  denounced  against  such, 
as  shall  be  guilty  of  pilfering  any  of  these  treasures. 

This  great  hall  of  the  Library  opens  at  right  angles  into  a  gallery 
little  short  of  half  a  mile  in  length,  supported  by  pillars  of  porphyry 
and  other  precious  materials,  presenting  one  of  the  richest  perspec- 
tives, which  the  imagination  can  conceive.  Its  sides  are  divided  into 
compartments,  labelled  with  the  names  of  great  men,  as  Cicero,  Vir- 
gil, Caesar,  and  others,  accompanied  by  a  likeness  of  each  painted  upon 
the  wall.  The  ceiling  as  usual  is  enriched  with  frescos,  among  which 
are  some  of  the  finest  productions  of  Mengs.  These  almost  endless 
galleries  are  filled  with  books,  antiquities,  and  curiosities  of  all  de- 
scriptions, kept  in  the  same  manner  as  the  manuscripts.  Many  of  the 
cases  were  opened  and  the  contents  disclosed  to  us.  In  this  inexhaus- 
tible cabinet,  we  saw  among  a  thousand  other  things,  across  composed 
of  small  figures,  representing  Greeks  and  Russians,  in  golden  mosaic 
— a  volume  of  plates,  illustrative  of  the  horrible  deaths  of  martyrs, 
in  the  ages  of  persecution — instruments  of  torture  in  every  possible 
shape — a  singular  kind  of  bell,  lamps,  and  other  domestic  utensils, 
fotmd  in  the  catacombs  and  used  bv  the  earlv  Christians — a  lock  of 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         335 

human  hair  found  in  a  Roman  sarcophagus — and  last  in  the  catalogue 
I  shall  give,  two  splendid  porcelain  candelabra,  made  at  Sevres,  near 
Paris,  and  presented  to  his  Holiness  by  Napoleon,  as  a  propitiation  for 
his  revolutionary  offences,  and  a  pledge  of  his  reconciliation,  after  he 
had  assumed  the  imperial  purple  ! 

The  Garden  of  the  Vatican  comprises  an  area  of  several  acres, 
Hanked  on  one  side  by  a  facade  of  the  Palace,  and  on  another  by  St. 
Peter's,  the  dome  of  which  from  this  point  appears  to  great  advan- 
tage. On  the  remaining  sides  are  walls  as  high  and  impregnable,  as 
were  those  of  Eden,  while  the  temptations  to  scale  tliem  arc  much 
fewer  and  less  irresistible.  A  sop  of  a  paul  appeased  the  hungry 
Cerberus,  and  induced  him  to  unbar  the  jarring  gates,  scarcely  less  mas- 
sive than  the  poet's  brazen  doors  in  the  nether  world.  But  even  the 
pittance,  paid  as  a  fee  of  admission,  is  more  than  the  lounge  is  worth, 
with  the  bare  exception  of  a  copious  fountain,  which  is  made  to  wind 
through  groves  of  ilex,  and  dash  down  a  bed  of  rugged  rocks,  filling 
the  whole  garden  with  its  murmurs.  The  stream  feeds  two  or  three 
lakes  of  moderate  size,  on  the  borders  of  which  are  erected  several 
lodges,  in  the  worst  possible  taste,  breaking  in  upon  the  simplicity  of 
nature,  without  adding  any  of  the  embellishments  of  art.  All  the 
statues  and  other  decorations  are  of  a  mean  and  uninteresting  charac- 
ter. The  walks  are  straight  and  formal,  and  the  shrubbery  tortured 
into  unnatural  shapes.  If  the  Pope's  gardeners  were  shut  out  of  the 
enclosure  for  a  few  years,  it  would  become  a  charming  retreat.  On 
the  day  of  our  ramble  through  these  grounds,  a  severe  thunder-storm 
passed  over  the  city.  The  quantity  of  water  collected  upon  the  roof 
of  St.  Peter's,  and  descending  in  a  torrent  from  the  eaves,  formed  one 
of  the  grandest  cascades  I  have  seen  in  Europe,  much  exceeding  in 
magnitude  what  is  denominated  the  Niagara  of  the  English  Lakes. 

In  one  of  our  frequent  visits  to  the  Vatican,  as  we  were  sauntering 
through  the  Loggie,  gazing  alternately  at  the  aziire  firmament  of 
Raphael,  and  the  still  brighter  heavens,  which  canopied  the  city  of  the 
Seven  Hills,  the  Pope's  carriage  came  thundering  through  the  colon- 
nades of  3t.  Peter's,  and  drove  into  the  court  below.  A  report  soon 
circulated  among  the  crowd  of  visitants,  that  his  Holiness  was  bent  on 
an  excursion  to  his  shooting-lodge,  wliich  forms  an  oasis  in  the  desert 
of  the  Campagna,  several  miles  beyond  the  walls  of  Rome,  in  the  di- 
rection of  the  Alban  Mount.  Curiosity  led  us  to  descend  to  the  door 
of  the  palace,  for  the  purpose  of  catching  a  glance  at  the  Pontiff  as 
he  came  out.  An  ehgible  station  was  found  on  the  landing  at  the  foot 
of  the  stair-case,  where  a  group  of  both  sexes  had  already  assembled 
— some  from  no  better  motives  than  our  own.   and  others  to  receive 


336        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

the  benediction  of  the  godly  man.  An  interval  of  fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes  afforded  ample  time  for  examining  the  four  sleek  and  jetty 
steeds,  which  stood  champing  the  golden  bit,  and  tossing  high  their 
plumed  heads,  caparisoned  with  a  profusion  of  burnished  harness,  and 
mounted  by  a  brace  of  postillions  in  tawdry  liveries.  The  carriage  is 
a  flaming  chariot,  with  fiery  red  wheels,  and  the  inside  lined  with  crim- 
son velvet.  It  was  surrounded  by  a  squadron  of  light  dragoons 
for  outriders,  and  a  Swiss  guard  dressed  like  harlequins,  in  Turkish 
trowsers  and  stockings  of  red  and  yellow,  armed  with  halberds  resem- 
bling the  ancient  bipennis. 

A  troop  of  pilgrims,  issuing  from  a  morning  levee  in  the  chambers 
of  the  Vatican,  were  the  precursors  of  the  Pope,  who  soon  made  his 
appearance  upon  the  stairs,  attended  by  a  troop  of  ushers,  bearing  the 
rods  of  office,  and  a  suite  of  cardinals,  in  hose  and  tunics  of  crimson. 
The  Pontiff  himself,  now  at  the  age  of  sixty  or  upwards,  of  a  tall, 
slender  form,  and  a  pale,  emaciated,  though  somewhat  expressive 
countenance,  appeared  bare-headed,  clad  in  a  white  robe  bound  with 
a  girdle  about  his  loins,  red  sandals,  and  a  multiplicity  of  diamonds 
sparkling  upon  his  fingers.  During  his  descent  of  the  long  flight  of 
steps,  he  was  in  earnest  conversation  with  the  ex-queen  of  Sardinia, 
who  was  on  a  pilgrimage  to  the  palace,  accompanied  by  a  retinue  of 
her  maids  of  honour.  She  walked  by  his  side,  and  they  frequently 
paused,  as  if  debating  some  important  question,  or  perhaps  to  give  the 
spectators  a  fair  view  of  their  persons.  On  arriving  at  the  foot  of  the 
stairs,  within  a  few  paces  of  our  station,  her  majesty  knelt  for  the 
purpose  of  kissing  the  slipper  of  his  Holiness.  With  a  good  deal  of 
gallantry,  he  apparently  endeavoured  to  prevent  her  from  such  an  act 
of  humiliation  ;  but  she  persisted,  and  quite  a  bustle  ensued.  Finding 
all  resistance  vain,  he  raised  in  succession  each  foot  to  meet  her 
fervent  hps.  One  of  the  maids  of  horiour  attempted  to  follow  the 
example  of  her  mistress ;  but  the  Pope  seemed  to  think,  that  the 
kisses  ,jf  the  latter  would  suffice,  and  hurried  away  to  join  his  car- 
riage, pronouncing  his  benediction .  on  us  all  as  he  passed.  Eustace 
labours  to  palliate  this  abject  ceremony  of  devotees,  by  stating  that 
the  cross  on  me  slipper  is  the  object  of  reverence,  and  not  the  toe  of 
the  Pontiff.  But  unfortunately  tor  his  ingenious  apology,  the  sandal 
in  the  present  instance  was  embossed  with  a  white  rose,  instead  of 
the  sacred  symbol  of  Christianity. 

Leo  XII.  is  said  to  be  a  man  of  very  moderate  talents,  and  was 
scarcely  known  at  the  time  of  his  elevation  to  the  papal  throne,  from 
an  obscure  situation  at  Civita  Vecchia.  He  was  elected  by  the  influ- 
ence of  France  and  Austria,  contrary  to  the  wishes  and  expectations 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         337 

ol'  the  conclave  of  cardinals,  who  throw  their  ballots  by  accident  for 
him,  to  prevent  the  choice  of  a  more  prominent  candidate.  Unable 
to  acquire  influence  by  the  force  of  his  intellect  or  the  de[)th  of  his 
learning,  and  incapable  of  following  the  example  of  some  of  his  pre- 
decessors in  their  splendid  schemes  of  ambition,  he  has  sought  the 
reputation  of  extraordinary  piety,  with  a  sincere  hope  perhaps  of 
redeeming  the  vices  of  early  life  by  the  peculiar  sanctity  of  his  old 
age.  If  reports  currently  circulated  in  Italy  be  founded  in  truth,  he 
has  perpetrated  crimes  which  should  have  brought  him  to  a  gallows 
instead  of  a  throne.  He  is  accused,  with  what  justice  I  know  not,  of 
having  been  guilty  of  incest  and  other  unnatural  enormities,  i'roni 
one  extreme,  he  has  now  fallen  into  another ;  and  his  pontificate  is 
characterized  by  all  the  bigotry  and  gross  superstition  of  the  dark  ages. 
Rome  is  filled  with  pilgrims  and  beggars,  invited  thither  by  the  en- 
couragement of  the  Pope  ;  monastic  institutions  are  restored  to  their 
pristine  vigour  ;  new  saints  are  canonized  and  added  to  the  calendar  ; 
miracles  have  again  become  frequent ;  the  year  of  jubilee  returns  at 
short  intervals ;  and  rchgious  parades  are  made  the  business  of  life. 
The  zeal  of  the  Pontiff"  has  in  some  degree  extended  to  his  spiritual 
subjects  in  other  countries.  What  must  be  the  character  of  an  age, 
when  a  Bourbon  descends  from  the  throne  of  France,  and  goes  up 
bare-headed  to  the  shrine  of  Calvary,  in  a  procession  of  monks,  chant- 
ing hymns  to  the  Virgin  ?  Leo  XII.  is  an  instrument  made  use  of  by 
the  Holy  Alliance  for  rivetting  the  chains  of  Europe  ;  and  at  his  death, 
it  is  said  that  their  influence  will  be  rendered  still  more  direct,  by  raising 
one  of  the  archdukes  of  Austria  to  the  papal  throne,  thus  adding  if 
possible  to  the  degradation  of  Italy,  by  usurping  the  ecclesiastical,  as 
well  as  the  civil  and  military,  government  of  the  country. 


VOL,  II. 


338       LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

LETTER  LXXIV. 

R03IE    COKTINUED — POPe's    CATHEDRAL PUBLIC    FESTIVAL BAPTISr- 

ERY SCALA  SAJS'TA CHURCH  OF  SANTA  MARIA  MAGGIORE ST.  MARY 

OF  THE  AISGELS MONTE    TESTACCIO TOMB  OP  CAIUS  CESTIUS PRO- 

TESTAKT  CEMETERY EXCURSION  TO  ST.  PAUL's  OF  THE  THREE  FOUN- 
TAINS. 

June,  1826. 

St.  John  Lateral!,  or  the  Pope's  Cathedral,  is  second  only  to  St. 
Peter's  in  magnitude  and  the  grandeur  of  its  proportions,  and  claims 
even  a  superiority  in  sanctity  and  religious  importance.  It  is  the 
mother  church  of  Rome,  founded  by  the  emperor  Constantino,  or 
more  properly  converted  by  him  from  a  palace  into  a  sanctuary.  It 
stands  upon  an  elevated,  spacious,  and  beautiful  area,  near  the  Nea- 
politan Gate,  commanding  a  charming  view  of  the  ruins  in  the  vicinity, 
as  well  as  of  the  distant  mountains.  The  front  is  peculiarly  bold, 
grand,  and  imposing,  surpassing  in  my  opinion  the  principal  facade 
of  St.  Peter's.  Its  battlements  are  surmounted  by  colossal  statues 
of  the  Saviour  and  the  twelve  apostles.  The  material  of  the  church 
is  a  handsome  stoiie  of  a  light  complexion.  A  magnificent  flight  of 
steps,  extending  the  whole  breadth  of  the  front,  leads  to  the  vestibule. 
The  central  door  is  of  sculptured  bronze,  said  to  be  from  the  ancient 
temple  of  Saturn  near  the  Roman  Forum. 

Such  is  the  stately  exterior  of  St.  John  Lateran.  The  interior  is 
of  the  form  denominated  the  basilica,  consisting  of  a  wide  nave  in  the 
centre,  with  double  aisles  on  each  side,  separated  from  one  another  by 
rows  of  pilasters,  which  at  the  time  of  our  several  visits  were  covered 
with  crimson  cloth,  the  usual  decorations  during  festivals.  A  series 
of  splendid  chapels  line  the  outermost  aisles.  Of  these  shrines,  the 
Corsini  is  by  far  the  most  magnificent.  In  the  four  corners  are 
statues,  representing  the  cardinal  virtues,  beautifully  executed  in 
white  marble.  The  figures  are  admirable  both  in  design  and  execu- 
tion. On  the  left  as  you  enter,  is  the  proud  tomb  of  Clement  XII. 
who  consecrated  and  enriched  this  chapel,  in  honour  of  St.  Corsini, 
his  ancestor.  The  sarcophagus  of  the  Pope  is  porphyry,  of  the  most 
exquisite  workmanship.  It  was  pilfered  from  the  Pantheon,  and  is 
supposed  to  have  contained  the  dust  of  Agrippa,  son-in-law  of  Au- 
gustus. On  the  tomb  of  one  of  the  Corsini,  opposite  that  of  Clement, 
is  a  statue  representing  religion,  the  expression  of  which  is  inimitable. 
In  a  word,  all  the  sculpture  in  this  chapel  is  of  the  very  first  order,  as 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        339 

beautiful  in  the  designs  as  in  the  material  and  finish.  Much  cannot 
be  said  in  favour  of  the  other  ornaments  of  St.  John  Lateran.  Along 
the  sides  of  the  nave,  arc  ranges  of  colossal  saints,  some  of  them  in 
very  bad  taste.  One  of  them  holds  a  knife  in  his  hand,  and  has  his 
own  skin,  which  has  just  been  taken  ofl",  thrown  over  his  arm.  The 
altar  of  the  holy  sacrament  is  extremely  splendid,  glittering  with  costly 
embellishments,  and  supported  by  four  fluted  bronze-gilt  pillars  of  the 
Corinthian  order,  said  to  have  been  taken  from  the  temple  of  Jupiter 
Capitohnus. 

We  witnessed  in  this  church  tlie  anniversary  celebration  of  Ascen- 
sion Day,  when  the  Pope  officiated  in  person.  The  ceremonies  were 
splendid,  but  had  little  the  appearance  of  religious  rites.  Early  in  the 
forenoon,  the  principal  streets  leading  to  the  Cathedral  were  thronged 
with  carriages  and  pedestrians,  hastening  to  see  the  Pontiff  perform 
his  sacred  functions.  Regiments  of  Austrian  troops  in  full  uniform, 
wearing  sprigs  of  evergreen  in  their  hats,  were  paraded  on  the  great 
square,  in  front  of  the  church  ;  and  a  numerous  band  of  martial  music 
gave  life  and  animation  to  the  scene.  An  immense  multitude,  com- 
prising nearly  the  whole  population  of  Rome,  with  all  the  strangers  in 
the  city,  were  collected  in  the  church,  on  the  steps,  and  seated  in  their 
coaches  thronging  the  area.  There  was  a  fine  display  of  Roman  beau- 
ty and  taste.  At  length  the  Pope  appeared  in  pontifical  robes  of  snowy 
whiteness,  fringed  with  gold,  wearing  an  image  of  the  sun  upon  his 
breast,  and  the  glittering  tiara  upon  his  brow.  He  was  borne  along 
the  aisles  on  the  shoulders  of  men,  and  seated  in  the  tribune  behind 
the  high  altar,  surrounded  by  all  the  ecclesiastical  dignitaries.  After 
high  mass  was  celebrated,  closing  with  exquisite  music,  his  Holiness 
was  carried  in  state  to  the  balcony  in  front  of  the  church,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  pronouncing  his  benediction  upon  the  assembled  multitude. 
Above  his  head  rose  a  splendid  canopy  of  crimson  velvet,  and  an  orb 
of  plumes,  resembling  a  peacock's  tail,  was  displayed  on  his  right. 
The  moment  he  made  his  appearance,  all  dropped  upon  their  knees, 
while  he  spread  forth  his  hands  and  uttered  a  brief  blessing.  As  soon 
as  the  ceremony  was  over,  a  salute  of  twenty  guns  was  fired  from  the 
castle  of  St.  Angelo,  and  the  Austrian  band  struck  up  some  of  the 
martial  airs  of  the  north.  In  the  midst  of  the  uproar,  the  Pope  threw 
from  the  balcony  printed  papers,  which  came  down  like  a  shower  of 
play-bills,  and  set  the  crowd  in  a  general  scramble  for  these  precious 
copies  of  his  benediction.  Hucksters  were  all  the  while  crying  punch, 
and  apple-women,  cakes  and  fruit.  It  was,  on  the  whole,  a  very  odd 
scene,  more  resembling  a  military  muster,  a  theatrical  exhibition,  or 
any  other  show,  than  a  sacred  festival  of  the  church. 


niO  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

St.  John  Lateran  is  surrounded  by  other  structures,  which  contri- 
bute to  its  external  grandeur.  Near  its  western  entrance,  stands  a 
beautiful  Egyptian  obelisk,  ten  feet  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and  one 
hundred  and  twenty  in  height,  richly  sculptured  with  hieroglyphics. 
It  was  brought  from  the  Temple  of  the  Sun  at  Thebes,  and  erected 
by  one  of  the  Popes.  The  Baptistery  belonging  to  the  Cathedral  claims 
peculiar  sanctity  and  celebrity,  in  as  much  as  the  Emperor  Constantino 
received  the  holy  rite  at  its  font.  It  is  not  a  very  large  building,  octa- 
gonal in  shape,  rich  in  marbles  and  precious  stones.  A  profusion  of 
porphyry,  verde  antique,  and  of  alabaster  has  been  lavished  on  its 
altars.  The  font  is  an  ancient  sarcophagus,  to  which  you  descend  by 
several  steps.  One  of  the  paintings  upon  the  walls  represents  Con- 
stantine  in  the  character  of  an  iconoclast,  in  the  act  of  demolishing 
idols,  or  in  other  words,  the  beautiful  specimens  of  Grecian  and  Ro- 
man sculpture,  which  were  probably  converted  into  hme,  as  thousands 
have  since  been,  to  be  used  as  mortar  for  constructing  palaces. 

The  most  curious  edifice  in  the  vicinity  of  St.  John  Lateran  is  the 
Scala  Santa^  or  Holy  Stairs,  situated  opposite  the  church,  always  open 
and  always  crowded  with  devotees.     Here  are  to  be  seen  twenty-five 
or  thirty  white  marble  steps,  said  to  have  belonged  to  the  palace  of 
Pontius  Pilate  at  Jerusalem,  and  to  have  been  hallowed  by  the  foot- 
steps of  the  Saviour.     They  are  covered  with  thick  plank,  renewed 
at  short  intervals,  to  prevent  them  from  being  worn  out  by  the  knees 
and  kisses  of  the  devout.     No  person  is  allowed  to  ascend  or  descend 
this  sacred  way  upon  his  feet.     There  are  two  lateral  flights,  by  which 
the  profane  may  go  up  or  the  pious  walk  down,  after  the  fatigues  of 
climbing  the  consecrated  marble.     I  have  visited  the  Scala  Santa  per- 
haps a  dozen  times,  and  never  without  seeing  a  multitude  of  both 
sexes,  often  well  dressed  ladies  and  gentlemen,  engaged  in  the  arduous 
pilgrimage  of  creeping  from  the  bottom  to  the  top.     They  commence 
by  kneeling  and  kissing  the  lower  step,  and  on  each  of  the  succeeding 
ones  they  pause  to  whisper  a  short  prayer.     The  ascent  occupies  half 
or  three  quarters  of  an  hour.     It  is  at  once  painful  and  melancholy,  to 
see  delicate  females  struggling  in  the  performance  of  this  superstitious 
penance,  imposed  as  a  religious  duty.     In  all  my  visits,  I  do  not  re- 
collect to  have  seen  one  of  the  priesthood,  reducing  his  corpulency,  or 
soihng  his  sacerdotal  robes,  by  such  an  act  of  humility.     At  the  head 
of  the  stairs  is  a  little  chapel,  denominated  the  sanctum  sanctorum^ 
from  its  peculiar  hohness.     It  contains  a  precious  crucifix,  and  two 
of  the  nails  from  the  cross,  brought  from  Jerusalem.     We  had  an  in- 
distinct view  of  these  relics,  through  a  lattice  and  by  the  faint  glimmer 
of  a  taper,  kept  forever  burning  in  the  sacred  shrine.     The  picture  of 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        341 

superstition  is  here  more  gross  and  revolting,  than  I  have  found  it  in 
any  other  part  of  Italy,  because  it  is  accompanied  with  bodily  pain. 
An  effectual  remedy  would  be  found,  in  compelling  the  ecclesiastics, 
who  inflict  such  penalties  on  the  multitude,  to  take  a  few  turns  up 
the  Scala  Santa  themselves. 

In  the  same  neighbourhood  is  the  church  of  Santa  Croce  in  Geru- 
salemme,  founded  by  St.  Helen,  mother  of  Constantine,  who  brought 
a  piece  of  the  cross  from  the  Holy  Land,  and  here  planted  it  with 
her  own  hand,  giving  sanctity  to  a  Roman  Basilica,  which  stood  upon 
the  same  site.  The  front  and  vestibule  are  peculiarly  fine,  facing 
the  great  square,  and  rich  in  pillared  magnificence.  On  either 
side  of  the  central  door  is  a  marble  font,  in  which  a  sculptured  fish  is 
represented  playing  in  the  holy  water.  In  the  crypt  is  the  tomb  of  St. 
Helen,  and  a  fresco  upon  the  ceihng  portrays  her  miraculous  labours 
in  finding  the  fragment  of  the  cross  in  Palestine. 

But  of  all  the  churches  at  Rome  or  in  Italy,  so  far  as  my  observa- 
tion has  extended,  none  will  sustain  a  comparison  in  elegance  of  form, 
richness  of  materials,  and  splendour  of  ornament,  with  Santa  Maria 
Maggiore.  It  is  situated  upon  the  summit  of  the  Esquihne  Hill,  and 
covers  ground  once  occupied  by  a  temple  of  Juno.  The  shrine  of 
the  Virgin  Mother  no  doubt  far  surpasses  in  sumptuousness  that  of 
the  Queen  of  Heaven.  At  all  events,  the  brilliancy  of  its  decorations 
is  better  suited  to  a  theatre,  a  pavilion,  or  a  ball-room,  than  to  the  cha- 
racter of  that  religion,  which  in  its  origin  is  associated  with  a  manger, 
and  the  prevailing  spirit  of  which  is  lowliness  of  heart.  Yet  here  the 
holy  babe  is  annually  born,  and  rocked  in  a  more  splendid  cradle,  than 
ever  lulled  the  slumbers  of  an  earthly  monarch.  The  form  of  this 
church  is  that  of  the  ancient  basilica,  allowed  to  be  the  most  perfect, 
so  far  as  it  respects  symmetry  and  beauty.  Nothing  can  exceed  in 
richness  and  elegance  the  view  from  the  front  door,  towards  the  high 
altar  and  the  tribune.  Forty  beautiful  antique  pillars  of  the  Ionic 
order  line  the  nave,  and  support  galleries,  which  are  divided  into  com- 
partments, filled  with  paintings.  The  glories  of  the  ceiling  vie  with 
the  mosaics  of  the  pavement.  Between  the  nave  and  the  choir,  rises 
a  canopy  supported  by  four  porphyry  pillars,  wreathed  with  gold,  and 
only  surpassed  in  splendour  by  the  profusion  of  lapis-lazuli,  agate, 
and  jasper,  which  glitter  on  the  altars  around.  Two  magnificent  cha- 
pels open  on  either  hand,  and  are  filled  with  piles  of  monumental  mar- 
ble, of  the  most  exquisite  workmanship.  Among  these  are  the  tombs 
of  four  Popes.  In  one  of  the  chapels  is  a  beautiful  tabernacle  sup- 
ported by  angels  of  bronze  gilt.  The  outside  of  Santa  Maria  Mag- 
giore does  not  fully  correspond  in  magnificence  v;ith  the  interior.     Its 


342  LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE. 

roof  is  crowned  with  two  domes  and  a  misshapen  steeple.  On  one 
side  stands  an  Egyptian  Obelisk,  taken  from  the  tomb  of  Augustus  ; 
and  on  the  other,  a  column  from  the  temple  of  Peace,  surmounted  by 
a  statue  of  the  Madonna.  It  has  a  deep  and  noble  portico  in  front,  con- 
taining among  other  ornaments  a  full  bronze  statue  of  Phihp.IV.  of  Spain. 

The  church  of  St.  Maria  of  the  Angels  possesses  an  interest  entirely 
different  from  that  of  the  one  just  described.  It  stands  on  the  ruins 
of  Diocletian's  Baths,  and  in  fact  once  formed  a  part  of  that  imperial 
and  luxurious  establishment,  which  covered  several  acres.  Michael 
Angelo  converted  that  portion  which  was  denominated  the  Xystum, 
or  the  arena  for  wrestlers  and  gladiators  in  unpleasant  weather,  into 
the  present  church,  and  made  it  one  of  the  grandest  in  Rome.  Its 
form  is  perfect,  being  a  Greek  Cross,  from  the  intersection  of  which 
every  object  in  the  edifice  may  be  distinctly  seen.  The  nave  is  nearly 
two  hundred  feet  in  length,  and  upwards  of  one  hundred  in  height,  sup- 
ported by  antique  columns  of  granite,  sixteen  feet  in  circumference. 
On  the  splendid  mosaic  pavement  is  a  delineation  of  the  Ecliptic,  ex- 
hibiting the  signs  of  the  zodiac,  the  most  remarkable  stars  within  the 
limits  of  the  solar  path,  and  the  feasts  of  the  church,  all  finely  execu- 
ted. The  line  extends  diagonally  the  length  of  the  church.  In  the 
vestibule,  which  was  one  of  the  hot  baths  of  Diocletian,  are  the  tombs 
of  Salvator  Rosa  and  Carlo  Maratta,  two  eminent  artists.  That  of 
the  former  is  of  beautiful  white  marble,  comprising  a  statue  of  him- 
self, with  two  children  at  the  base,  and  a  very  neat  appropriate  inscrip- 
tion. The  altars  of  this  sanctuary  exhibit  the  usual  quantity  of  pre- 
cious materials  and  brilliant  decorations,  together  with  more  than  an 
ordinary  share  of  good  paintings.  Among  these  are  the  Fall  of  Simon 
Magus,  the  Baptism  of  the  Saviour,  and  above  all  the  Martyrdom  of 
St.  Sebastian,  by  Domenichino,  in  his  most  forcible  and  finished  style. 
We  wandered  over  the  extensive  ruins  of  the  ancient  baths,  among 
which  is  now  situated  a  modern  convent  of  Carthusian  monks ;  but 
after  lull  examinations  of  the  baths  of  Titus  and  Caracalla,  little  was 
here  found  worthy  of  particular  notice.  In  a  neighbouring  garden 
once  stood  temples  sacred  to  Apollo  and  to  iEsculapius. 

I  made  two  excursions  to  St.  Paul's  without  the  walls,  several  miles 
from  the  city,  taking  in  my  way  several  intermediate  objects,  among 
the  most  interesting  of  which  are  Monte  Testaccio,  the  tomb  of  Caius 
Cestius,  and  the  Protestant  Cemetery.  The  Mons  Testaceus,  as  it 
was  called  by  the  old  Romans,  situated  near  the  left  bank  of  the  Tiber, 
is  nearly  two  hundred  feet  in  height,  and  five  or  six  hundred  feet  in 
circumference.  It  is  entirely  artificial,  composed  of  broken  porcelain, 
thrown  out  as  refuse  ware  by  workmen  in  the  potteries.     It  is  noAV 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        343 

covered  with  green  sward,  and  on  its  summit  an  annual  festival  is 
celebrated,  resembling  the  ancient  Saturnalia.  Not  far  from  its  base, 
rises  to  the  height  of  about  120  feet  the  proud  and  substantial  pyramid, 
in  honour  of  Caius  Cestius,  the  purveyor  for  the  feasts  of  the  gods, 
who  seems  to  have  possessed  notliing  beyond  official  dignity,  to  enti- 
tle him  to  such  a  distinction.  A  lateral  door,  kept  under  lock  and 
key,  opens  into  the  spacious  vault,  arched  at  top,  in  which  the  sarco- 
phagus was  deposited,  in  the  style  of  the  Egyptian  kings.  A  cicerone 
conducted  us  down  a  flight  of  steps  into  the  vacant,  murky,  and  gloomy 
sepulchre,  pointing  out  the  half  obliterated  frescos  upon  the  roof. 
But  it  contains  little  that  deserves  the  attention  of  the  visitant.  The 
name  of  the  wealthy  Roman  is  pompously  displayed  on  one  of  the 
faces  of  the  exterior. 

The  burying-ground  for  strangers  is  not  less  beautiful  and  interest- 
ing than  the  Protestant  Cemetery  at  Leghorn,  described  in  a  former  let- 
ter. It  lies  in  the  form  of  an  exact  square,  enclosed  by  a  moat  ten 
feet  in  width  and  fifteen  in  depth,  laying  bare  the  pavement  of  the  old 
Ostian  Way.  The  sides  of  the  entrenchment  are  neatly  walled  up 
with  substantial  masonry,  and  a  draw-bridge,  with  a  gate  kept  locked, 
forms  the  only  entrance.  Copses  of  pine,  yew,  elm,  acacia,  and  other 
shrubs,  together  with  a  coat  of  rank  grass  enamelled  with  the  red 
poppy  and  a  variety  of  wild  flowers,  shade  the  grounds,  half  concealing 
the  beautiful  white  marble  monuments  rising  amidst  the  foliage.  If  a 
stranger  could  be  reconciled  to  a  grave  in  any  foreign  soil,  the  seclu- 
sion and  quiet  of  this  cemetery,  lying  on  the  banks  of  the  Tiber,  under 
the  very  walls  of  Rome  and  overshadowed  by  its  venerable  monuments, 
would  present  fewer  repulsive  ideas  than  any  other  spot,  and  have  a 
strong  tendency  to  overcome  an  attacliment  to  the  tombs  of  his  ances- . 
tors.  In  our  several  visits,  we  entered  the  enclosure  and  examined,  I 
believe,  every  stone  it  contains.  Here,  as  at  Leghorn  and  Naples, 
rest  the  remains  of  several  of  our  countrymen.  A  handsome  pillar 
of  black  marble,  sculptured  with  urns,  and  inscribed  with  an  appro- 
priate epitaph,  rises  in  memory  of  Mrs.  M'Evers  of  New-York,  who 
died  at  Vclietri,  in  1803,  at  the  age  of  18,  while  on  a  journey  for  the 
benefit  of  her  health.  Her  tomb  is  beautifully  shaded  with  shrubbery 
of  various  kinds,  and  the  sod  richly  sprinkled  with  flowers.  At  the 
distance  of  a  few  rods,  sleeps  the  dust  of  Lady  Grenville  Temple,  the 
wife  of  an  English  Baronet.  She  was  the  daughter  of  George  Wat- 
son, Escj.  of  Massachusetts.  Her  monument  is  conspicuous,  orna- 
mented with  bass-relief,  and  overhung  by  tlie  branches  of  a  pine, 
through  which  the  breeze  sighed  in  melancholy  whispers.  In  another 
part  of  the  cemetery,  a  white  marble  slab,  elegantly  wrought,  desig- 


344         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

nates  the  grave  of  Daniel  Remsen,  Esq.  of  New-York,  who  died  in 
February,  1822,  at  the  age  of  37.  Among  the  tombs  of  strangers, 
which  most  interested  us,  was  that  of  the  celebrated  Doctor  John 
Bell,  of  Edinburgh,  whose  book  on  Italy  has  lately  been  published. 
He  died  in  1820,  at  the  age  of  53.  The  classical  inscription — 
"  Haud  minus  scriptis  quam  eximia  artis  sapientia  insignis" — does  jus- 
tice to  a  man  eminent  for  his  attainments  in  science  as  well  as  for  his 
taste  in  the  works  of  art.  Two  rose-bushes,  hanging  their  full  clusters 
over  a  horizontal  slab,  attracted  our  attention  to  the  grave  of  the 
young  daughter  of  a  German  ambassador  to  the  Papal  court.  Near 
the  gate  rests  an  anonymous  English  poet,  whose  epitaph  complains  of 
persecution,  and  states  that  on  his  death-bed,  "  he  requested  his  name 
to  be  writ  in  water."  The  tomb  of  Percy  B.  Shelley,  another  English 
poet,  the  friend  of  Lord  Byron,  who  was  drowned  on  the  coast  of  Tus- 
cany,* is  among  the  most  conspicuous  in  the  new  cemetery,  contiguous 
to  the  old  one.  His  epitaph  is  as  eccentric  as  was  the  character  of  his 
muse.  It  consists  of  an  odd  quotation  from  the  Tempest  of  Shakspeare : 

"  Nothing  of  him  that  doth  fade. 
But  doth  suffer  a  sea-chan»e 
Into  something;  rich  and  strange." 

In  the  same  burying-ground  is  a  monument  in  memory  of  an  accom- 
plished and  interesting  young  lady,  the  niece  of  Lord  Bathurst,  who 
was  thrown  into  the  Tiber  and  drowned,  while  riding  on  horseback 
near  the  Milvian  Bridge.  It  is  singular  that  only  two  days  before  her 
death,  she  was  in  this  very  cemetery  to  pay  a  tribute  of  respect  to  the 
tombs  of  her  countrymen.  Her  tragical  fate  excited  universal  sympa- 
tliy  at  Rome.  Another  stone  records  the  death  of  a  tourist,  who  fell 
into  the  Anio  at  Tivoli,  and  was  swept  over  the  cataract.  Such  are  a 
lew  of  the  mementos,  which  remind  the  traveller  to  how  many  dangers 
he  is  exposed,  and  call  forth  his  gratitude  for  his  own  preservation. 

By  the  side  of  the  road,  between  the  tomb  of  Caius  Cestius  and  the 
Church  of  St.  Paul,  is  a  little  shrine  said  to  be  erected  on  the  spot, 
where  the  two  Apostles  parted  just  before  their  execution.  A  Latin 
inscription  records  the  mournful  event  of  the  last  meeting.     The  idon- 


*  A  citizen  of  Leghorn  informed  me,  that  he  saw  Shelley,  when  he  embarked 
in  his  pleasure  boat,  with  the  management  of  which  he  was  wholly  unacquainted. 
Yet  he  persisted  in  launching  forth,  without  a  pilot,  against  the  remonstrances  ol' 
his  friends.  In  an  hour  afterwards,  his  bark  was  capsized,  and  his  body  drifted 
upon  the  beach,  where  it  was  burnt  on  a  funeral  pile,  in  the  Pioman  style,  and  his 
ashes  inurned. — Sec  tht  Convcrsalions  of  Lord  Byron. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        345 

iity  of  the  scene,  and  even  the  fact  of  an  interview,  rests  on  a  vague 
tradition.  St.  Paufs  without  the  walls,  once  second  only  to  St.  Peter's 
in  its  dimensions  and  magnilicence,  is  now  a  mass  of  bleak  ruins, 
having  been  a  few  years  since  destroyed  by  fire.  Useless  as  was  this 
splendid  temple,  in  the  deserts  of  tlie  Campagna,  where  there  are  no 
inhabitants  within  miles  of  its  doors,  it  is  painful  to  behold  sucli  a  wreck 
of  the  arts.  Massive  and  beautiful  fiuied  pillars  of  the  Corinthian 
order,  shivered  and  calcined  by  the  flames,  strew  a  mosaic  pavement 
about  250  feet  in  lengtii,  and  half  that  distance  in  breadth.  The  whole 
area  is  covered  with  the  stumps,  shafts,  and  fragments  of  capitals  and 
friezes.  No  less  than  one  hundred  and  twenty  of  these  immense  co- 
lumns, many  of  which  were  from  the  tomb  of  Adrian,  rose  along  the 
nave  and  aisles  of  this  proud  temple,  forming  colonnades  and  vistas  of 
imequalled  splendour.  A  monk  from  a  neighbouring  convent,  the  few 
inmates  of  which  are  palhd  with  sickness,  and  starving  amidst  the  waste 
by  which  they  are  surrounded,  conducted  us  through  his  own  cloisters, 
and  over  the  sad  remains  of  the  church,  prolonging  his  services  as  much 
as  possible,  with  the  hope  of  augmenting  his  fee.  Behind  the  place 
where  the  high  altar  once  stood,  now  strewed  with  the  molten  scoria  of 
its  precious  gems,  he  showed  the  reputed  tomb  of  St.  Paul,  in  the 
form  of  a  subterranean  vault,  with  a  small  altar,  before  which  a  taper 
is  still  kept  burning,  and  flings  its  dim  rays  upon  the  surrounding  ruins. 
Mad  as  the  project  may  seem,  the  Pope  is  engaged  in  restoring  this 
costly  structure ;  and  scaflbldings  have  been  erected,  on  which  men 
were  at  work,  in  pealing  oft"  seared  frescos  from  the  shell,  preparatory 
to  the  contemplated  repairs.  Such  is  the  folly  and  fanaticism  of  the 
papal  government,  in  erecting  temples  where  there  are  no  worshippers, 
and  in  a  region  so  pestilential,  that  for  a  considerable  part  of  the  year, 
the  most  enthusiastic  pilgrim  would  not  venture  to  approach  the  shrine. 
Even  the  monks  are  driven  from  their  rookery  by  the  mal'aria,  and  com- 
pelled during  the  sickly  months  to  seek  refuge  within  the  walls  of 
Rome. 

In  a  second  visit  to  St.  Paul's,  we  extended  our  ride  two  miles  farther 
on  towards  Ostia,  to  a  place  where  it  is  said  the  great  Apostle  of  the 
Gentiles  and  many  of  his  proselytes  suffered  martyrdom.  To  whatever 
degree  of  credibility  the  legend  may  be  entitled,  it  has  been  sufficient 
in  the  eyes  of  the  faithful  to  impart  peculiar  sanctity  to  the  scene  of 
suffering ;  and  here  three  other  churches  have  been  erected,  in  the  very 
depths  of  the  Campagna,  forming  the  remotest  outposts  in  the  chain 
of  ecclesiastical  fortresses  encircling  Rome.  The  solitudes  in  this 
region  are  absolutely  appalling.  There  is  not  to  my  recollection  a 
single  dwelling  on  the  road,  in  the  whole  distance  of  four  or  five  miles 

VOL.  II.  ^4 


SiQ  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

from  the  gates  of  the  city.  Glimpses  of  the  Tiber,  rolhng  through 
such  a  perfect  desert,  in  silent  and  sullen  grandeur,  only  serve  to  deep- 
en the  picture  of  desolation.  Deep  excavations  have  been  made  in 
the  undulating  surface,  for  obtaining  tufo.  We  saw  here  and  there  a 
shepherd  tending  his  flock  of  sheep  and  goats  on  the  green  but  lonely 
waste.  The  most  interesting  of  the  group  of  churches,  standing  within 
a  few  rods  of  one  another,  is  St.  Paul's  of  the  Three  Fountains.  It  is 
intrinsically  a  pretty  temple,  rich  in  its  decorations,  among  which  are 
two  columns  of  green  porphyry,  extremely  beautiful.  But  this  chapel 
relies  chiefly  on  its  associations,  for  its  attractions  both  to  pilgrims  and 
travellers.  In  one  corner  stands  a  white  marble  pillar,  protected  by  an 
iron  grate,  and  a  Latin  inscription  states  that  it  is  the  identical  block, 
on  which  St.  Paul  was  belieaded.  One  of  the  two  monks,  who  seem 
to  be  the  sole  residents  in  the  vicinity  of  these  three  churches,  confirm- 
ed the  authenticity  of  the  tradition,  and  was  very  loquacious  in  citing 
authorities.  But  the  marble  block,  (an  odd  material  for  the  purposes 
of  decapitation,)  is  not  the  greatest  wonder  in  this  marvellous  shrine. 
Along  the  walls  are  three  fountains,  which,  according  to  the  same 
legendary  tales,  burst  forth  all  at  once  in  a  miraculous  manner.  The 
friar  scooped  up  a  ladle  full  of  the  water  and  gave  us  to  drink.  It  was 
found  to  be  pure  and  refreshing.  Two  or  three  squalid  peasants,  who 
were  journeying  from  the  mouth  of  the  Tiber  to  Rome,  and  who  here 
halted  to  kneel  at  the  holy  altar,  also  drank  at  the  fountains,  as  if  there 
was  some  peculiar  virtue  in  the  draught. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        347 

LETTER  LXXV. 

JROME   CONTINUED — T03IB   OF  TASSO — CORSINI  PALACE MOUNT  JANICU- 

ICM — FOUNTAIN  OF  FAUL  V. VILLA  DOUIA  PAMFILI DORIA  PALACE 

SCENE  UPON  THE   CORSO PALAZZO    ROSPIGLIOSI — GUIUo's   AURORA 

GALLERY. 

June,  1826. 

A  SOLITARY  pilgrimage  to  the  tomb  of  Tasso  afforded  me  great  pleasure. 
It  is  in  the  church  of  St.  Onofrio,  situated  on  the  brow  of  the  Janicu- 
lum,  overhanging  the  ancient  gardens  of  Caesar,  and  commanding  a 
charming  view  of  Rome.  A  small  terrace  in  front  is  beautifully  sha- 
ded with  elms,  and  the  cloisters  of  the  Convent,  in  which  the  great 
epic  poet  of  modern  Italy  died  in  penury,  exhibit  an  air  of  deep  seclu- 
sion. My  visit  was  at  evening.  Finding  no  one  in  the  vicinity,  I 
entered  the  church  alone  to  look  for  the  tomb.  A  young  friar,  the 
only  person  in  the  chapel,  happened  to  be  kneeling  at  his  vespers  on 
the  very  slab  in  the  pavement,  which  covers  the  dust,  and  is  inscribed 
"with  the  name  of  the  divine  puct.  The  kind-hearted  ecclesiastic, 
guessing  my  errand,  rose  and  after  pointing  to  the  spot  without  uttering 
a  word,  knelt  at  a  little  distance  to  finish  his  evening  devotions.  I 
followed  his  example  in  kneeling,  for  the  less  pious  purpose  of  enabling 
me  in  the  obscurity  of  twilight  to  read  the  inscription,  which  was  found 
to  be  as  follows  : — "  Torquati  Tassi  ossa  hie  jacent" — here  rest  the 
remains  of  Torquato  Tasso.  He  died  in  1644,  at  the  age  of  51,  after 
a  series  of  persecutions  and  misfortunes,  such  as  Italian  genius  seems 
to  have  been  destined  in  all  cases  to  experience,  amidst  the  collision  of 
parties,  the  intolerance  of  the  church,  the  tyranny  of  petty  sovereignties, 
and  the  jealousies  of  individuals.  On  the  wall  opposite  the  slab  cover- 
ing his  ashes,  is  a  handsome  monument  to  his  memory,  consisting  of  a 
marble  tablet,  bearing  a  long  l.atin  epitaph  ;  a  beautiful  medallion  of 
the  poet,  with  other  decorations  in  good  taste,  the  whole  surmounted 
by  a  cross.  The  glimmer  of  a  solitary  lamp  at  one  of  the  altars  ena- 
bled me  to  read  the  recorded  honours,  and  enter  a  memorandiun  in  my 
pocket-book,  after  daylight  had  vanished.  1  lingered  long  at  the  tomb, 
partly  to  enjoy  the  quiet  of  the  scene,  and  partly  with  the  hope  of  having 
an  opportunity  to  thank  the  monk  for  his  politeness.  But  his  devotions 
were  protracted  to  such  lengths,  that  I  was  obliged  to  leave  before  he 
had  finished  his  vespers.  Mingled  with  a  great  deal  of  gross  supersti- 
tion, there  is  much  genuine  piety  in  the  religion  of  Italy.  It  is  impos- 
sible that  this  ecclesiastic  could  have  been  insincere,  as  no  eye  but  that 


34S  LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE. 

of  Omniscience  was  upon  him,  and  no  motives  but  those  of  duty 
could  have  influenced  his  heart.  A  thousand  instances  of  the  same 
kind  have  been  witnessed  in  the  course  of  my  tour,  in  entering 
churches  at  night  and  finding  persons  kneehng  in  obscure  comers, 
unobserved  by  the  world. 

To  avoid  a  monotonous  description  of  a  long  list  of  other  churches 
and  palaces  which  were  visited,  and  for  the  purpose  of  giving  as  much 
variety  as  possible  to  the  residue  of  my  sketch  of  Rome,  I  will  endea- 
vour to  vary  the  manner  as  well  as  the  matter,  by  giving  a  few  extracts 
from  my  diary,  comprising  notices  of  objects  in  the  order  they  were 
examined  from  day  to  day,  without  arranging  my  remarks  under  par- 
ticular heads,  or  grouping  such  topics  as  are  analogous.  Kindred 
subjects  in  a  city,  which  on  more  accounts  tlian  one  is  entitled  to  the 
epithet  "  eternal,"  are  so  numerous,  that  the  reader  as  well  as  the 
tourist,  who  attempts  to  despatch  them  in  lots,  assorted  according  to 
their  afiinities,  will  be  weary  of  the  uniformity  of  his  task,  long  before 
the  number  in  each  class  of  objects  has  been  exhausted.  The  con- 
gregation of  churches  and  palaces  in  particular  is  endless  ;  and  a  for- 
mal enumeration  of  either  would  exhaust  the  patience  of  others  as 
well  as  my  own.  T-pt  ns  therefore  ramble  at  our  leisure  from  hill  to 
hill,  from  villa  to  villa,  and  from  gallery  to  gallRry,  without  regard  to 
systematic  sight-seeing,  calling  at  such  places  and  noting  such  works 
of  art  as  are  most  attractive. 

On  the  14th,  all  our  party  went  to  the  Corsini  Palace,  situated  be- 
yond the  Tiber,  at  the  foot  of  the  Janiculum.  The  edifice  is  spacious, 
and  its  proportions  fine,  though  it  is  inferior  in  architecture  to  several 
buildings  of  the  same  description  at  Rome  and  in  other  cities.  The 
double  flight  of  steps,  leading  to  the  halls,  borders  on  grandeur.  In 
the  rear  spreads  a  large  garden,  quite  too  artificial  to  be  in  good  taste. 
Walls  of  verdure,  shorn  into  unnatural  forms,  separate  the  straight 
walks  and  alleys.  The  principal  object  of  our  visit  was  to  look  at 
the  gallery  of  statues  and  paintings.  Of  the  former  the  number  is 
small  and  uninteresting,  in  comparison  with  the  museums  at  the  Ca- 
pitol and  Vatican  ;  but  the  collection  of  pictures  contains  some  of  the 
choicest  specimens  we  have  found  in  Italy.  The  walls  of  several 
apartments  are  covered  with  the  productions  of  the  first  artists,  and 
there  is  scarcely  a  mean  work  in  the  gallery.  Before  all  others,  I  had 
almost  said  here  or  elsewhere,  is  an  Ecce  Homo,  the  head  of  the  Sa- 
viour, by  Guercino.  It  is  a  sublime  eflfbrt  of  the  mighty  master,  and 
will  produce  an  emotion  in  every  mind,  however  unschooled  in  the  arts. 
Evury  lineament  in  the  face  is  divine,  and  cannot  fail  to  move  the  spec- 
tutor  to  admiration,  to  compassion,  and  devotion.     The  utmost  degree 


LETTERS  FllOM  EUROPE.  34*^ 

of  agony,  united  with  resignation  and  fortitude,  is  depicted  in  the  coun- 
tenance and  the  bleeding  brow,  girt  with  a  crown  of  tliorns,  Larwe 
drops  of  blood  steal  down  the  cheeks  and  fall  upon  the  bosom.  It  is 
difficult  to  divest  such  a  subject  of  horror  ;  but  the  artist  has  conquered 
all  the  difficulties  he  had  to  encounter,  and  this  one  work  is  sufficient 
to  immortalize  his  name.  There  was  something  so  fascinating  in  this 
single  head,  as  to  chain  us  to  the  spot  for  half  an  hour,  and  induce  us 
often  to  return  to  take  a  last  look.  Two  paintings  of  the  same  subject, 
one  by  Guido  and  the  other  by  Carlo  Dolci,  are  both  first  rate  produc- 
tions, but  will  sustain  no  comparison  with  that  of  Guercino.  The  de- 
capitation of  St.  John,  by  Guido,  is  in  his  best  style,  which  is  not  an 
ordinary  compliment ;  for  no  artist  was  so  unequal  in  his  manner. 
Here  is  a  head  of  one  of  the  Popes,  ascribed  to  the  pencil  of  Raphael. 
It  is  a  finished  production  whoever  may  be  the  author.  In  one  of  the 
halls  is  an  ancient  consular  chair  of  Parian  marble.  It  is  somewhat 
in  the  shape  of  a  wheaten  sheaf  or  the  section  of  a  vase,  with  one  half 
of  the  top  open,  and  the  other  forming  the  back.  It  is  enriched  with 
elegant  bass-relief.  Among  the  other  pictures,  which  particularly  at- 
tracted our  attention,  were  a  portrait  of  a  V' estal,  by  Carlo  Maratta ; 
the  woman  taken  in  adultery  by  Titian  ;  and  a  holy  family,  by  Murillo, 
a  Spanish  artist  of  extraordinary  merit.  In  the  last  room,  is  the  Pro- 
metheus of  Salvator  Rosa,  which  is  reckoned  one  of  his  greatest  works. 
It  is  quite  too  terrific  to  be  agreeable.  Probably  to  make  it  harmonize 
with  the  subject,  it  has  been  placed  in  a  dark  corner  of  the  apartment. 
The  giant  is  chained  to  the  rock,  and  the  vulture  is  in  the  act  of  poun- 
cing upon  his  vitals.  Extreme  agony,  bordering  almost  upon  carica- 
ture, is  depicted  in  the  face  of  the  immortal  convict :  his  mouth  is 
stretclied  and  distorted,  his  eyes  are  closed  in  his  writhings,  and  every 
muscle  has  the  utmost  degree  of  tension.  The  dehneation  of  his  trunk 
is  still  more  extravagant :  his  vitals  are  torn  out,  and  the  mangled  in- 
terior of  the  chest  is  disclosed.  Such  a  bloody  spectacle  excites  no 
other  emotion  than  that  of  horror  ;  and  while  this  celebrated  picture 
evinces  much  lalent,  and  great  skill  in  the  execution,  it  appeared  to 
me  wanting  in  chasteness  of  design  and  delicacy  of  taste.  Lady 
Morgan  is  guilty  of  some  strange  blunders,  in  speaking  of  the  Prome- 
theus, in  her  life  of  Salvator  Rosa.  So  gross  are  her  errors,  that  we 
came  to  the  conclusion  she  had  never  examined  the  painting,  which 
she  attempts  to  describe.  She  says  the  hole  in  the  breast,  where  the 
vulture  is  knawing,  is  small;  whereas  the  whole  region  of  the  dia- 
phragm and  its  contents  are  laid  bare : — and  again,  that  "  the  mouth, 
resembling  that  of  the  Apollo  Belvidere,  is  moderately  open,  express- 
ing patient  endurance  ;"  while  in  fact,  it  is  stretched  from  ear  to  ear '. 


aSO        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

In  short,  not  one  feature  of  her  sketch  is  accurate,  except  what  she 
says  of  the  anatomy  of  the  figure. 

From  the  Corsini  Palace,  we  pursued  our  excursion  to  the  summit 
of  Janiculum,  whence  a  splendid  panoramic  view  of  Rome  and  its  en- 
virons was  obtained.  Near  the  top  is  the  noble  Fountain  of  Paul  V. 
one  of  the  finest  among  the  hundred,  which  purify,  refresh,  and  adorn 
the  imperial  city.  Not  merely  a  brook,  but  a  river,  brought  thirty-five 
miles  in  an  aqueduct,  here  gushes  through  five  apertures  in  a  wall,  and 
descends  in  foam  into  a  magnificent  marble  basin.  Between  the  silver 
streams  are  half  a  dozen  splendid  Ionic  columns  of  red  granite,  sur- 
mounted by  a  rich  frieze,  all  taken  from  the  Forum  of  Nerva.  But 
one  feels  disposed  to  pardon  the  Pope  for  his  plunder  in  this  instance, 
from  the  useful  application  he  has  made  of  the  pilfered  materials. 

Passing  out  of  the  Porta  diSan  Pancrazio,  which  spans  the  old  Au- 
relian  Way,  we  visited  the  VjHaDoria  Pamfili,  belonging  to  a  descend- 
ant of  the  Genoese  Liberator.  It  is  one  of  the  most  extensive  in  the 
environs  of  Rome,  being  about  four  miles  in  circuit.  The  grounds  arc 
filled  with  groves,  walks,  lakes,  and  fountains,  much  resembling  in 
style,  the  gardens  at  Versailles.  In  some  instances,  the  woods  and 
waters  are  fine.  The  most  conspicuous  tree  is  the  pine,  rising  to  a 
moderate  height,  with  a  flat  spreading  top.  In  the  embellishment  of 
this  park,  art  has  done  too  much.  Every  object  has  been  distorted, 
and  few  of  the  negligent  graces  of  nature  are  left.  Here  is  a  suite  of 
musical  water-works,  like  those  in  the  Belvidere  gardens,  on  the  Alban 
Mount.  The  machinery  in  the  former  is  even  more  bungling  than  in 
the  latter  ;  for  the  organ  to  grind  out  the  tunes  is  not  so  much  as  con- 
cealed from  view.  We  had  a  charming  ramble  about  the  lakes,  which 
are  filled  with  ducks.  A  flock  of  white  peacocks  was  observed  upon 
the  shores.  The  Lodge  exhibits  less  taste  than  the  grounds.  We  ranged 
through  it  from  the  basement  to  the  battlements,  without  finding  many 
objects  either  to  interest  or  amuse.  It  is  thronged  with  statues,  none 
of  which  possess  extraordinary  merit.  A  gladiator  is  the  finest  of  the 
collection.  In  the  attic  story  is  a  small  museum  of  antiquities  and  cu- 
riosities of  various  kinds,  such  as  urns,  rich  plate,  and  rare  specimens 
of  porcelain.  The  whole  of  this  evening  was  passed  in  rambling  by 
moonlight,  amidst  the  ruins  of  the  Forum  and  Coliseum. 

The  next  day  we  went  to  the  Doria  Palace  in  the  Corso.  It  is  a 
large  and  magnificent  structure,  presenting  a  handsome  front  to  the 
street.  The  apartments  are  generally  elegant :  one  of  them  is  pecu- 
liarly splendid,  the  walls  being  covered  with  mirrors,  somewhat  in  the 
style  of  the  Serra,  at  Genoa.  The  gallery  of  pictures  is  situated  round 
a  square,  and  contains  a  rare  collection.     Two  of  the  finest  are  Cain 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        351 

slaying  Abel,  and  Bclisarius,  both  by  Salvator  Rosa.  The  latter  is  an 
admirable  production,  characterized  by  all  the  wild  and  gloomy  gran- 
deur of  its  author's  imagination.  A  landscape  view  is  in  perfect  harmo- 
ny with  the  character  of  the  hero,  who  is  represented  with  an  erect 
form  and  undaunted  brow,  treading  amidst  ruins.  There  is  sublimity 
in  the  angry  sky,  and  forests  shattered  by  the  storm.  The  contrast  be- 
tween such  a  scene  and  some  of  Claude  Lorraine's  soft,  sunny,  and 
quiet  landscapes,  in  the  same  collection,  is  peculiarly  striking.  There 
is  not  a  wider  difference  between  the  poetry  of  Thompson  and  Byron. 
Several  of  Claude's  most  finished  pieces,  are  in  this  gallery.  For  one 
of  them,  not  more  than  four  feet  square,  an  English  nobleman  offered 
^20,(i00.  He  is  wholly  inimitable  and  incomparable  in  his  depart- 
ment, as  far  transcending  other  artists  in  rural  scenery,  as  Raphael  does 
in  portraits.  His  talent  presents  a  moral  phenomenon,  as  inexplica- 
ble upon  ordinary  principles,  as  does  the  poetic  fancy  of  Akenside,  al- 
luded to  in  one  of  my  previous  letters.  If  the  author  of  the  Pleasures 
of  Imagination,  was  a  butcher's  boy,  Claude  was  a  pastry-cook,  and 
remarkably  stupid,  even  in  that  line.  Amidst  tarts  and  sweet-meats, 
Avhence  did  he  imbibe  his  divine  conceptions  of  nature,  and  the  faculty 
of  transferring  them  to  the  canvass  ?  Those  who  ascribe  the  charac- 
ter of  the  mind  to  local  scenery  and  early  impressions,  will  find  it  difli- 
cult  to  solve  the  enigma.  One  of  the  corridors  in  the  Doria,  contains  a 
fine  Magdalene,  by  Murillo,  the  Spaniard.  The  expression  of  the 
penitent  is  peculiarly  forcible.  His  pictures  are  not  generally  very 
highly  finished ;  but  his  pencil  is  true  to  nature,  and  in  genius  he  is 
scarcely  inferior  to  the  first  Italian  masters.  A  small  picture  by  Mi- 
chael Angelo,  more  than  ever  satisfied  me,  that  painting  was  not  his 
forte.  Among  the  other  articles,  which  arrested  our  attention,  are 
the  heads  of  two  lawyers,  by  Raphael  ;  several  heads  by  Guide  ;  half 
a  dozen  Titians,  of  which  is  Abraham  offering  up  his  son  Isaac  ;  the 
martyrdom  of  St.  Agnes  ;  and  a  very  spirited  portrait  of  a  Pope. 
The  subject  of  one  of  the  pictures  in  this  gallery  is  entirely  original, 
but  not  of  the  most  delicate  or  dignified  kind.  It  is  a  female  catching 
fleas  by  candle-light !  She  is  represented  with  her  bosom  open,  in  the 
attitude  of  seizing  one  of  the  animals,  which  are  seen  skipping  about 
on  her  snowy  neck.  The  sketch,  it  must  be  confessed,  is  extremely 
graphical,  and  pecuharly  suited  to  the  latitude  of  Italy  ;  but  it  is  a 
singular  ornament  for  the  walls  of  a  palace. 

After  dinner  we  strolled  for  an  hour  through  the  Corso,  to  look  at 
the  living,  moving,  and  busy  world  of  fashion.  The  display  in  this 
street,  between  G  and  7  o'clock  each  evening,  is  a  spectacle  worth  sec- 
ifig.     Eyes  wiiich  have  slept  away  tlic  day,  then  begin  to  sparkle,  and 


353  LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE. 

the  reign  of  pleasure  commences.  A  spirit  of  rivalship  in  show  and 
luxury,  something  in  the  style  of  the  old  patricians,  still  prevails  among 
the  Romans.  Many  of  their  coaches,  horses,  and  equipages,  are 
splendid.  The  carriage  of  Torlonia  the  banker,  alias  the  Duke  of 
Bracciano,  was  observed  among  the  foremost  of  the  glittering  throng, 
drawn  by  palfreys,  and  bearing  the  escutcheons  of  purchased  nobility. 
He  at  least  professes  the  merit  of  being  the  artificer  of  his  own  fortune, 
having  risen  from  penury  and  the  humblest  walks  of  life,  by  his  own 
unaided  efforts.  Giuseppe,  who  keeps  an  eating-house  in  the  Corso, 
was  once  the  intimate  friend  and  companion  of  Torlonia.  The  latter 
has  advanced  to  wealth  and  rank,  leaving  the  former  behind  to  cook 
omelets  and  macaroni.  Such  are  the  caprices  of  fortune,  to  which 
honest  Joseph  does  not  seem  fully  reconciled,  as  he  looks  out  from  his 
kitchen  window,  and  sees  the  carriage  of  the  new  Duke  thunder  down 
the  course,  from  the  door  of  his  palace  in  the  vicinity. 

We  were  this  evening  honoured  with  a  call  from  Signer  Trentanove, 
the  celebrated  sculptor,  whose  reputation  is  so  well  known  to  our 
countrymen,  as  the  pupil  and  successor  of  Canova.  He  sat  with  us 
an  hour,  and  we  were  delighted  with  an  interview,  which  subsequently 
led  to  a  more  intimate  acquaintance.  He  is  yet  quite  a  young  man, 
handsome  in  his  person,  with  a  fine  forehead,  and  a  keen  dark  eye. 
Genius  and  intellect  are  very  legibly  written  in  the  lines  of  his  face.  ' 
In  his  manners  he  is  modest,  aflfable,  and  extremely  prepossessing, 
manifesting  great  cordiality  and  kindness  of  heart.  On  taking  leave, 
he  politely  tendered  his  good  offices,  and  offered  any  facihties  in  his 
power,  to  enable  us  to  examine  the  works  of  art,  and  other  objects  of 
interest  at  Rome.  The  sequel  will  prove,  that  this  act  of  civility  was 
not  a  mere  compliment,  but  resulted  in  many  kind  attentions  and  valu- 
able services. 

On  the  following  day,  we  all  went  to  the  Palazzo  Rospigliosi,  stand- 
ing on  the  ruins  of  Constantine's  Baths,  in  the  region  of  Monte  Ca- 
vallo.  In  a  pretty  garden  filled  with  oranges,  citrons,  and  flowers,  is  a 
pavilion  of  no  great  beauty,  the  ceiling  of  which  is  adorned  with  the 
celebrated  Aurora  of  Guido,  esteemed  one  of  the  finest  frescos  at 
Rome.  The  design  is  grand,  but  we  were  somewhat  disappointed  in 
the  execution,  being  unable  to  discover  those  masterly  touches,  which 
have  called  forth  the  admiration  of  others.  A  quadrigae  or  four-horse 
chariot,  is  driven  by  Phoebus.  The  heads  of  the  horses  are  fine  ;  but 
the  figure,  face,  and  attitude  of  the  god  of  day  appeared  to  us  pecu- 
liarly awkward,  and  unworthy  of  so  brilliant  a  divinity.  If  Phaeton 
did  not  drive  with  more  spirit,  no  wonder  he  was  thrown  into  the  Po. 
.Tust  above  the  fiery  steeds  appears  the  Morning  Star,  in  the  guise  of 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         353 

a  Cupid  bearing  a  torch.  Round  the  cliariot  of  the  Sun  dance  the 
Hours,  in  the  shape  of  nymphs,  seven  in  number.  Their  forms  are 
gross  and  heavy,  their  legs  large,  and  their  arms  brawny,  forming  an 
odd  personification  of  those  winged,  aerial  spirits,  who  are  supposed 
to  tread  with  light  footsteps,  and  flit  by,  almost  unperceived.  They 
are  clad  in  costumes  of  different  colours,  in  which  the  favourite  blue 
of  the  artist  predominates.  The  skies  and  clouds  present  a  tolerable 
picture  of  the  mingled  hues  and  reflected  blushes  of  morning.  In 
front  of  the  steeds  is  Aurora  herself,  the  precursor  and  guide  of  Phoe- 
bus. She  is  represented  in  the  form  of  a  beautiful  female,  flying 
through  the  heavens  and  lighting  up  the  orient  with  her  smiles.  It  is, 
on  the  wliole,  a  pretty  picture,  defective  as  parts  of  it  appear  in  detail. 
We  lounged  an  hour  or  two  in  the  apartments  of  the  palace.  In 
the  vestibule  is  a  bronze  horse,  found  in  the  baths  of  Constantine. 
The  Death  of  Sampson,  by  Lodovico  Caracci,  is  one  of  the  largest 
and  most  meritorious  pictures  in  the  collection.  Its  design  is  extreme- 
ly happy.  The  giant  is  represented  in  the  midst  of  the  ruins  he  has 
created,  surrounded  by  an  agitated  and  terrified  multitude,  affording  a 
wide  scope  for  the  exhibition  of  various  attitudes  and  passions.  One 
of  the  rooms  contains  a  painting  of  the  Garden  of  Eden,  which  on 
canvass  is  very  far  from  being  a  paradise.  The  Triumph  of  David,  by 
Domenichino,  is  an  admirable  picture.  Two  females  are  playing  upon 
musical  instruments,  and  dancing  in  the  procession.  The  King  of 
Israel  is  represented  in  the  character  of  a  comely  youth,  with  sunny 
locks  playiiir  about  his  shoulders.  Saul  appears  in  a  giant  form,  with 
a  stern,  sullen,  and  jealous  countenance.  We  were  much  pleased  with 
a  basaltic  bust  of  Scipio  Africanus,  found  at  Liternum  or  Patria,  the 
place  of  his  exile,  between  Gaeta  and  Cuma;.  It  is  the  most  striking 
head  I  have  seen  at  Rome.  The  venerable  warrior  and  patriot  is  re- 
presented as  perfectly  bald,  and  exhibiting  a  scar  on  his  right  brow. 
His  face  is  strongly  marked  with  the  lines  of  thought.  The  stone  is  of 
a  greenish  complexion,  and  the  breast  of  the  bust  appears  to  be  of 
bronze. 


VOL.  II. 


354        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

LETTER  LXXVI. 

EOME  CONTIMTED — KEKO's  TOWER VILLA   ALBANI STUDIO   OP   THEN- 

TANOVE — BORGHESE  PALACE EXCURSION  TO   MONS    SACER — CANONI- 
ZATION   OF   A   NEW    SAINT SUNDAY    IN    ROME — SPADA  AND  FARNESE 

PALACES — VILLA  BORGHESE FINALE  OF  THE  POPE's  SAINT. 

June^  1826. 

On  the  Quirinal  Hill,  stands  the  tower  on  which  Nero  is  said  to  have 
sat  and  fiddled,  while  Rome  was  in  flames.  Vague  and  improbable  as 
the  tradition  is,  we  sought  permission  to  enter,  and  follow  the  foot- 
steps of  the  tyrant  to  the  summit,  but  were  repulsed  at  the  door.  The 
base  of  the  monument  is  occupied  as  a  nunnery,  and  of  course  there 
is  no  admission  to  the  cells  of  the  holy  sisterhood. 

Foiled  in  this  attempt,  we  made  an  excursion  to  the  Villa  Albani, 
beyond  the  Fountain  of  Termine,*  and  near  the  Porta  Pia,  or  Gate  of 
Pius  IV.  which  is  one  of  the  most  magnificent  at  Rome.  The  villa 
commands  an  enchanting  view  of  Tivoli  and  the  Alban  Mount.  Its 
grounds  and  gardens  are  extensive,  sloping  gently  towards  the  Cam- 
pagna,  and  forming  one  of  the  most  delightful  situations  in  the  suburbs 
of  the  city.  Yet  with  all  these  natural  advantages,  Albani  exhibits 
little  taste  and  few  attractions.  Its  walks  are  laid  out  in  the  most  formal 
manner  ;  its  squares  and  alleys  are  all  right-angled  ;  its  trees  are  de- 
spoiled of  their  native*  charms  ;  and  its  fountains  resemble  the  locks 
of  a  canal. 

Within  the  enclosure  are  three  edifices,  designed  merely  as  lodges, 
galleries,  and  places  of  occasional  resort  for  amusement.  The  prin- 
cipal edifice  is  lofty,  light,  an  J  airy,  with  a  beautiful  porch  extending 
the  \4hole  length  in  front,  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  in  depth,  supported 
by  a  long  range  of  pillars.  Its  roof  is  arched,  and  the  pavement  is  a 
splendid  mosaic,  composed  of  black  and  white  marble.  This  portico 
is  worth  more  than  all  the  rest  of  the  building,  on  which  immense 
sums  of  money  have  been  squandered.  Along  the  front  are  semicir- 
cular recesses,  forming  the  entrances  to  the  stair-ways,  and  ornamented 
with  statues,  busts,  and  hermes.  With  a  few  exceptions  it  is  a  poor 
lot  of  sculpture.     Among  the  better  pieces,  is  a  marble  medallion  of 


*  This  is  one  of  the  finest  works  of  the  kind  in  the  city.  Its  embellishments 
are  peculiarly  appropriate,  consisting  of  a  statue  of  Moses  bringing  water  from  the 
rock,  and  a  bass-relief,  representing  Aaron  leading  the  Israelites  to  slake  their  thirst 

at  the  fountain. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  ;J5G 

Antinous,  in  alto-relievo.  The  walls  of  the  gallery- are  encrusted  with 
precious  materials,  but  do  not  display  much  taste.  One  of  the  frescos 
was  done  by  Mengs.     The  image  of  Apollo  is  frightful. 

This  lodge  belongs  to  a  cardinal,  and  at  some  of  its  decorations  wo 
were  not  a  httle  astonished.  Hundreds  of  miniature  pictures,  in  taw- 
dry gilt  frames,  are  suspended  from  the  walls,  like  the  votive  oficrings 
in  a  chapel.  But  these  puerile  embellishments  are  not  the  most 
exceptionable.  There  is  a  Venus  seated  in  an  indecent  manner, 
imperfectly  draped,  with  a  Cupid  endeavouring  to  remove  the  veil, 
while  she  half  resists  the  voluptuous  effort.  It  is  the  most  hccntious 
picture,  which  has  met  my  observation  in  any  of  the  public  galleries 
of  Italy,  and  forms  a  strange  ornament  for  a  cardinal's  pavilion.  In 
the  rooms  below  are  some  line  specimens  of  alabaster,  and  a  beautiful 
white  basin,  ten  feet  in  diameter,  sculptured  with  the  labours  of 
Hercules.  It  was  found  in  Adrian's  Villa.  The  same  apartment 
contains  several  Caryatides  and  Canephoraj,  or  Roman  females  who 
bore  baskets  on  their  heads  filled  with  articles  for  the  sacrifice.  They 
were  disinterred  on  the  Appian  Way,  and  are  supposed  to  be  of  Gre- 
cian origin. 

Opposite  the  principal  lodge,  is  another  pavilion,  with  a  circular 
porch  in  front,  crowded  with  indifferent  statues.  One  of  them  repre- 
sents the  dwarf  and  fabulist  J5sop,  who  is  not  here  the  monstrous, 
deformed  lump,  which  the  Phrygian  philosopher  is  supposed  to  have 
been.  Among  the  group  is  a  Sappho,  with  whom  no  one  would  be 
likely  to  fall  in  love  ;  a  bust  which  has  been  christened  Hannibal,  and 
another,  Amilcar  his  father.  The  collection  at  the  Villa  Albani  is 
much  more  interesting  to  the  professed  artist  and  antiquary,  than  to 
an  ordinary  visitant. 

At  evening  we  made  an  excursion  across  the  Milvian  Bridge,  and 
thence  down  the  right  bank  of  the  Tiber,  along  the  foot  of  Monte 
Mario,  to  the  Porta-Angelica,  near  the  Vatican — a  circuit  of  four  or 
five  miles,  affording  many  fine  views  of  the  hills,  the  river,  the  walls, 
and  the  distant  towers  of  the  city.  For  the  greater  part  of  the  way, 
the  path  pursues  the  windings  of  the  Tiber,  the  borders  of  which  arc 
rural  and  flowery.  In  the  summer  months  this  is  the  fashionable 
drive  with  the  Romans.  We  met  half  a  dozen  cardinals,  who  had 
deserted  their  coaches,  and  were  loitering  along  the  shady  road. 

A  severe  thunder-storm  confined  us  to  our  chambers  for  a  consider- 
able part  of  the  following  day.     I  have  observed,  that  in  Italy  shower<? 
generally  come  in  the  morning,  instead  of  the  afternoon,  as  with  us.  , 
When  it  does  rain  here,  it  rains  in  good  earnest,  and  sufllicient  water 
descends  in  an  hour,  to  keep  the  earth  moist  for  weeks.     There  is  no 


35G         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

cloudy,  drizzling  weather,  such  as  is  common  in  the  north  of  France. 
Great-Britain,  and  the  United  States,  exposed  as  all  these  countries 
are  to  evaporations  from  the  wide  surface  of  the  Atlantic. 

At  noon  the  skies  cleared,  and  we  visited  the  Studio  of  Trentanove. 
He  was  closeted  with  an  English  lady,  who  was  sitting  for  her  bust ; 
but  he  requested  us  to  make  ourselves  at  home  in  his  study,  if  it  could 
aftbrd  any  amusement.  We  found  it  rich  in  statues,  and  exquisite 
specimens  of  sculpture.  Copies  of  the  Venus  de'  Medicis  and  the 
Apollino  are  worthy  of  the  original  in  the  Gallery  at  Florence.  They 
were  blocked  out  at  Carrara,  and  have  received  the  finishing  touches 
of  Trentanove  himself.  He  has  caught  the  expression  with  great 
accuracy,  and  the  workmanship  is  admirable.  Could  these  statues 
be  buried  for  a  time,  till  their  snowy  hmbs  had  contracted  the  rust  of 
antiquity,  they  might  very  easily  be  taken  for  Grecian  models.  I  was 
delighted  with  a  group  of  two  children  ;  one  with  a  bird,  and  the 
other  with  its  nest.  The  former  is  laughing,  and  the  latter  in  tears. 
In  attitude  and  expression,  both  are  true  to  nature.  It  is  a  beautiful 
production,  as  well  in  design  as  in  execution,  and  would  form  a  fine 
decoration  for  a  drawing-room.  We  here  found  a  gallery,  composed 
of  the  busts  of  our  countrymen,  from  Washington  and  Franklin  down 
to  some  of  our  personal  acquaintances,  wliose  faces  were  instantly 
recognized.  Among  the  other  articles,  are  the  Loves  sleeping  ;  a  fine 
head  of  Napoleon  ;  a  head  of  Madame  Catalani,  for  whom  the  three 
Graces  are  now  in  hand  ;  and  a  splendid  bust  of  Mrs.  Childers,  an 
English  lady,  with  whom  the  spectator  is  much  more  likely  to  fall  in 
love,  than  with  the  Pope's  figure  of  Justice  in  St.  Peter's.  In  his 
general  style,  Trentanove  adheres  to  the  instructions  of  his  great 
master,  Canova,  though  not  so  rigidly  as  to  copy  his  faults.  He  is  an 
artist  of  discriminating  mind  and  correct  taste,  with  all  the  advantages 
■which  the  galleries  and  schools  of  Italy  can  aftbrd.  In  my  opinion 
the  day  is  not  distant,  if  it  has  not  already  arrived,  when  the  produc- 
tions of  his  chisel  will  rival  those  of  his  illustrious  predecessor.  He 
possesses  both  the  genius  and  industry,  to  reach  the  highest  eminence 
in  his  profession. 

In  the  afternoon  I  visited  the  Palazzo  Borghese,  the  largest  and 
one  of  the  most  magnificent  palaces  in  Rome.  It  is  situated  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Tiber,  above  the  bridge  of  St.  Angelo.  The  porticos 
in  the  rear  overhang  and  look  out  upon  the  river.  A  lofty  and  noble 
front  ranges  along  the  street.  The  apartments  are  both  numerous 
and  spacious.  Some  of  them  are  extremely  ricli  in  decorations.  The 
vaulted  ceilings  are  highly  gilt.  Sheets  of  mirrors  are  half-covered 
with  Cupids  and  wreaths  of  flowers.     But  a  choice  collection  of 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        337 

paintings  furnishes  the  strongest  attraction.  The  walls  of  ten  room;^ 
are  entirely  covered  with  some  of  the  rarest  pictures  of  the  first  artists. 
My  remarks  will  be  restricted  to  a  very  few  of  the  number,  though  a 
hundred  are  worthy  of  particular  notice.  Perhaps  the  most  inimitable 
in  the  collection,  are  the  Descent  from  the  Cross,  and  a  portrait  of 
Cassar  Borgia,  both  by  Raphael.  The  former  is  a  sublime  effort, 
wortliy  of  the  subject  and  the  fame  of  its  author.  In  the  latter,  the 
head  and  hand  are  perfect.  The  ambitious  Pontiff  was  taken  when 
young,  in  a  black  costume,  with  a  cardinal's  hat.  At  a  small  head  of 
the  Saviour,  and  a  Madonna,  by  Carlo  Dolci,  I  gazed  for  half  an 
hour,  and  even  then  my  eyes  were  not  satisfied  with  contemplating 
such  exquisite  productions.  Diana  shooting  is  one  of  Domenichino's 
most  poetical  and  happy  conceptions,  expressed  in  his  best  manner. 
No  artist  excels  him  in  originality  of  thought,  and  few  in  finish  and 
colouring.  Lot  and  his  Daughters,  by  Gherado  del  Notti,  are  in  the 
pecuhar  style  of  that  artist,  characterized  by  the  depth  of  light  and 
shade.  He  appears  to  have  painted  all  his  pieces  in  the  night,  by  the 
aid  of  a  lamp.  A  picture  of  Paul  Veronese  represents  St.  Anthony 
preaching  to  the  fishes.  In  this  gallery  are  Titian's  three  Graces  ; 
his  sacred  and  profane  Love  ;  and  the  woman  taken  in  adultery. 
Several  oval  pictures,  by  Albano,  are  much  admired.  Among  the 
minor  pieces,  are  landscapes  by  Potter,  who  is  famous  for  his  cattle-; 
and  some  of  Teniers'  matchless  comic  scenes.  In  a  word,  it  would 
be  difficult  to  find  a  gallery,  which  contains  a  greater  variety,  or  a 
more  select  assortment  of  paintings.  Yet  there  is  no  tenant  in  the 
palace  to  enjoy  them.  Paulina,  the  sister  of  Napoleon,  has  gone  to 
the  tomb,  and  Prince  Borghese,  her  husband,  is  a  wanderer  in  France 
and  England,  leavmg  his  Italian  villas  and  palaces  behind. 

After  dinner  we  made  an  excursion  to  Mons  Sacer,  whither  the  ple- 
beian multitude  retreated  in  rebellion,  and  gave  origin  to  the  office  of 
Tribune.  It  is  several  miles  from  Rome,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Anio,  in  the  depth  of  the  Carnpagna.  The  only  person  we  saw,  after 
leaving  the  gales  of  the  city,  was  an  old  man  clad  in  goat-skins,  with 
the  hairy  side  out.  He  looked  himself  like  one  of  the  beasts  of  his 
charge,  bearing  a  striking  similitude  to  Pan  and  the  fabled  Satyrs.  He 
has  a  rude  hut  by  the  margin  of  the  headlong  stream,  and  appears  to 
live  entirely  alone,  l^lie  hill,  so  renowned  in  history,  is  a  green  swell 
of  moderate  elevation,  rising  like  a  tumulus  on  the  waste.  We  here 
witnessed  one  of  the  most  splendid  sunsets  I  ever  beheld,  transcending 
the  boldest  and  richest  tints  of  the  pencil.  The  west  was  in  a  blaze 
of  glory,  and  imparted  to  the  clouds  and  to  the  distant  mountains  the 
most  gorgeous  hues  of  crimson,  purple,  and  gold. 


2oS  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

In  the  evening  we  went  to  the  chapel  of  Capuchins,  to  witness  the 
initiatory  step  towards  making  a  new  saint  and  entering  him  in  the 
calendar.  The  whole  process  occupied  three  days,  or  more  properly 
three  nights  ;  for  all  the  exercises  took  place  by  candle-light,  when  it 
is  much  easier  to  make  a  great  show  than  in  the  glare  of  sunshine. 
We  found  an  immense  multitude  assembled  to  witness  the  ceremonies, 
which  in  themselves  amount  to  nothing.  The  church,  the  squares, 
and  the  streets  in  the  vicinity  were  brilliantly  illummated,  and  throng- 
ed to  overflowing  with  both  sexes  in  their  best  dresses.  It  was  indeed 
a  splendid  spectacle.  A  rude  image  of  the  Saint  was  suspended  over 
the  high  altar,  with  a  circle  of  brass  wire  to  form  the  rays  of  a  glory 
about  his  head.  A  congregation  of  monks  and  priests,  in  their  sacer- 
dotal robes,  gathered  round  the  brilliant  shrine  and  joined  in  high  mass, 
after  which  some  exquisite  pieces  of  music  were  performed  in  the 
finest  style. 

I  have  now  an  image  of  this  saint  upon  my  table,  struck  off  for  the 
occasion,  on  a  small  duodecimo  leaf,  with  the  prayer  to  be  offered  to 
him  on  the  opposite  page.  He  was  canonized  under  the  appellation  of 
Beato  Angelo  d'Acri,and  seems  to  have  been  a  missionary  some  two  or 
three  hundred  years  ago.  He  is  represented  in  the  guise  of  a  monk, 
wearing  a  long  beard,  a  coarse  robe,  with  a  girdle  about  his  loins,  a 
crucifix  in  his  hand,  and  a  death's  head  by  his  side.  The  supplication 
directed  to  be  addressed  to  liim  begins  with — "  Oh  Beato  Angelo,  che 
foste  cosi  propizio  a  vostri  divoti,"  and  concludes  with  an  earnest  prayer 
for  his  intercession.  I  inquired  in  vain  for  the  peculiar  claims  of  this 
monk  to  a  place  in  the  calendar.  It  is  a  rule  with  the  Popes  never  to 
make  a  Saint  of  a  person,  with  whose  character  the  world  is  acquaint- 
ed, and  until  the  events  of  his  life  have  become  mere  matter  of  tradi- 
tion. 

The  act  of  canonization  appeared  to  be  a  festival,  rather  than  a 
solemn  religious  rite.  There  was  no  indication  of  seriousness  in  the 
audience.  The  street  leading  from  the  church  to  the  Fountain  of 
Trevi  was  kept  in  a  blaze  till  midnight,  and  was  converted  into  the 
Corso  of  the  evening.  It  was  constantly  thronged  with  belles  and 
beaux,  promenading  between  these  two  points,  occasionally  pausing 
at  the  Fountain,  to  see  the  beams  of  a  full  moon  and  the  glare  of  varie- 
gated lamps  reflected  from  the  silver  sheet  of  waters,  foaming  over  a 
rocky  bed.  I  rested  upon  the  rim  of  the  marble  basin,  watching 
alternately  the  beauty  of  the  cascade  and  the  gaiety  of  the  crowd. 
Madame  de  Stael  here  lays  the  scene  of  one  of  the  most  highly 
Wrought  passages  in  Corinne  ;  and  it  is  not  improbable,  that  some  of 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        359 

the  Roman  multitude  this  evening  whispered  sentiments  as  warm  and 
vows  as  tender,  as  were  breathed  by  her  impassioned  lovers. 

On  Sunday  we  went  to  St.  Peter's  to  attend  mass  and  hear  the  mu- 
sic. By  the  side  of  the  road,  beyond  the  ferry  of  the  Ripetta,  several 
men  were  observed  seated  upon  the  grass,  playing  cards  for  money. 
This  was  a  novel  scene  to  be  witnessed  on  the  Sabbath,  in  the  capital 
of  his  Hohness.  In  Italy  as  well  as  in  France,  Sunday  is  the  great  day 
of  amusement.  The  theatres  are  open  and  the  public  places  crowded. 
Religious  services  are  performed  at  morning  and  evening.  The  lower 
classes  go  to  mass  at  an  early  hour,  and  the  higher  orders,  at  11  or  12 
o'clock.  We  found  St.  Peter's  filled  with  people  ;  but  there  was  no- 
thing pecuhar  in  the  ceremonies.  In  one  of  the  chapels,  half  a  dozen 
females  were  observed,  with  a  numerous  group  of  pretty  girls  about 
them,  engaged  in  a  Sunday  School.  The  peculiar  doctrines  of  the 
Catholic  faith  are  of  course  inculcated.  I  have  one  of  the  elementary 
books,  put  into  the  hands  of  children,  now  before  me.  It  contains  the 
catechism,  and  is  full  of  what  Protestants  would  call  absurdities.  The 
Catholic  religion  in  Italy  is  essentially  different  from  the  same  faith,  as 
professed  in  the  United  States. 

In  returning  from  St.  Peter's,  a  great  crowd  was  observed  in  one 
of  the  pubhc  squares,  and  on  approaching,  we  found  a  young  priest 
earnestly  engaged  in  preaching  to  the  multitude.  He  was  really  elo- 
quent, powerful  in  his  elocution,  and  graceful  in  his  gestures.  His 
harangue  appeared  to  be  of  a  popular  cast,  adapted  to  a  street  audi- 
ence. From  some  he  drew  tears  and  from  others  sighs.  We  remain- 
ed till  the  close  of  the  exercises,  when  the  whole  congregation  kneel- 
ed upon  the  pavement,  and  received  a  parting  benediction. 

At  evening  we  walked  to  the  Coliseum,  to  attend  another  religious 
meeting.  The  exercises  were  just  closing  at  the  time  of  our  arrival. 
Another  orator  had  been  holding  forth  to  an  assembly,  which  filled  the 
arena.  They  were  now  all  kneeling  upon  the  green  grass,  before  the 
shrines  erected  round  the  podium^  engaged  in  saying  vespers.  Pre- 
sently they  rose,  and  marched  out  in  procession,  chanting  an  evening 
hymn.  A  society  of  monks,  in  brown  dominos  girt  with  a  cord,  bear- 
ing the  cross  and  lighted  tapers,  led  the  way.  The  scene  was  full  of 
interest,  associated  as  the  ceremonies  were  with  such  a  locality. 
The  splendours  of  a  full  moon  induced  us  to  linger  about  the  ruin  to 
a  late  hour,  watching  its  varying  aspects,  and  musing  in  its  desolate 
arches.  There  is  a  charming  walk  upon  the  brow  of  the  Cffilian  Hill, 
bordered  with  parterres  of  bright  flowers,  shaded  with  young  elms,  and 
furnished  with  embowered  seats.  It  is  within  a  hundred  paces  of  the 
Coliseum,  and  commands  a  perfect  view  of  the  exterior. 


360        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

On  the  19th  I  visited  the  Palazzo  Spada,  a  monstrous,  half-deserted 
palace,  surrounding  spacious  quadrangular  courts,  with  niches  above, 
occupied  by  gods  and  saints.  An  elderly  woman  conducted  me 
through  the  spacious  halls,  containing  many  fine  specimens  of  the  arts, 
among  which  are  eight  beautiful  pieces,  of  bass-relief,  or  more  pro- 
perly alto-relievo,  from  the  temple  of  Bacchus ;  a  fine  antique  of  the 
Grecian  philosopher  Antisthenes,  seated  in  a  thinking  posture,  with  his 
head  leaning  upon  his  hand  ;  Love  reposing  on  a  couch  ;  the  head  of 
Laocoon  ;  and  a  miniature  model  of  St.  Peter's.  But  by  far  the  most 
interesting  work  in  the  palace,  and  the  principal  object  of  my  visit,  is 
a  colossal  statue  of  Pompey,  at  the  base  of  which  Caesar  fell.  There 
is  some  doubt  as  to  its  identity,  and  the  authenticity  of  the  tradition. 
As  there  must  be  some  work  of  the  kind  at  Rome,  this  may  perhaps  as 
well  be  the  one.  It  is  said  to  have  been  found  in  a  vault  under  a 
street,  in  the  vicinity  of  Pompey's  Forum.  At  all  events,  it  is  a  sta- 
tue of  some  merit,  representing  a  warrior  in  an  imposing  attitude, 
with  a  fine  exhibition  of  muscles.  His  right  arm  is  outstretched ; 
in  his  left  hand  he  holds  a  globe  ;  and  a  sword  hangs  at  his  side.  I 
could  perceive  no  reason  why  it  might  not  be  the  conqueror  of  the 
East. 

From  the  Spada  palace,  I  went  to  the  Palazzo  Farnese,  in  the  same 
neighbourhood.  It  is  an  immense  pile,  the  materials  of  which  were 
drawn  from  the  Coliseum,  that  exhaustless  quarry  whence  many  of  the 
embellishments  of  modern  Rome  have  been  derived.  The  barbarous 
act  of  plunder  is  not  redeemed  by  the  magnificence  of  the  palace, 
although  its  exterior  surpasses  in  loftiness  and  architectural  grandeur 
any  similar  edifice  in  the  city.  It  is  three  stories  high  ;  the  first  of 
the  Doric,  the  second  of  the  Ionic,  and  the  third  of  the  Corinthian 
order.  The  frieze  is  particularly  admired  for  its  elegance.  On  the 
public  square  in .  front  are  two  basins  of  granite,  of  an  oval  form, 
seven  feet  in  diameter,  and  four  or  five  in  depth.  They  were  found 
in  the  Baths  of  Caracalla,  and  are  now  used  as  the  reservoirs  of  two 
copious  fountains. 

In  the  court  I  found  the  sarcophagus  of  Cecilia  Metella,  from  her 
tomb  on  the  Appian  Way.  It  is  composition,  encrusted  with  Parian 
marble,  sculptured  with  the  heads  of  animals.  It  is  capacious  enough 
to  hold  all  the  patrician  ashes  of  ancient  Rome.  In  the  back  porch  are 
several  sarcophagi,  fragments  of  pillars,  and  other  antiquities.  Climb- 
ing a  noble  flight  of  stairs,  I  examined  the  celebrated  frescos  of  Anni- 
bal  Caracci.  The  central  and  principal  picture  represents  the  triumph 
of  Bacchus  and  Ariadne,,  the  chariot  of  the  former  being  drawn  by 
tigers,  and  that  of  the  latter  by  goats.     Near  the  car  of  the  god  is 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        361 

Pan  witli  his  pastoral  pipes.  It  is  an  animated  scene.  At  one  end 
of  the  hall,  the  god  of  shepherds  is  ollbring  goat-skins  to  Diana  ;  at 
the  other,  Paris  is  in  the  act  of  receiving  the  apple  of  discord  from 
Mercury.  There  is  on  the  whole  much  originality,  as  well  as  poetic 
fancy,  displayed  in  these  frescos.  The  other  apartments  contain  a 
collection  of  statues,  comprising  a  great  deal  of  lumber.  Among  the 
best,  is  an  equestrian  statue  of  Caligula,  found  in  the  ruins  of  Pom- 
peii. A  group  of  recumbent  figures  claim  to  be  of  the  school  of 
Michael  Angelo.  There  is  much  gilt  about  some  of  the  articles,  in 
the  worst  possible  taste.  A  personification  of  Vanity  holds  a  real  mir- 
ror in  one  hand,  and  a  brazen  serpent  in  the  other.  She  looks  like 
the  fabled  image  of  the  mermaid,  with  her  glass  and  comb.  This 
enormous  palace,  in  which  a  small  family  might  easily  be  lost,  and  the 
saloons  of  which  are  silent  and  cheerless,  is  at  present  occupied  by  the 
Neapolitan  minister  to  the  Papal  Court.  lie  is  probably  lodged  in 
some  remote  corner,  as  no  furniture  was  observed  in  the  apartments 
cornprising  the  gallery. 

In  the  afternoon  I  walked  to  the  Villa  Borghese,  which  is  without 
the  walls  of  the  city,  spreading  northerly  from  the  base  of  the  Pincian 
Hill.  It  is  three  miles  in  circumference,  embracing  a  park,  somewhat 
in  the  English  style,  the  woods,  walks,  fountains,  and  other  embellish- 
ments of  which,  display  much  taste  in  rural  scenery,  furnishing  a  stri- 
king contrast  to  ordinary  Italian  gardens.  The  pine,  ilex,  and  elm,  are 
among  the  most  conspicuous  trees.  Broad  avenues  for  carriages  are 
laid  out  in  all  directions,  which  are  open  to  the  public,  and  form  a 
charming  drive.  At  the  gate,  the  visitant  passes  under  an  aqueduct, 
inscribed  on  one  side  with  the  words,  "^  Appia  felix  ad  lacum  ;"  on  the 
other,  "  Ne  quern  mitissimus  amnis  impediat,"  a  pretty  motto  for  a  co- 
pious stream,  which  flows  ten  or  fifteen  feet  above  an  excellent  road. 
Just  beyond  the  entrance,. two  vistas  open  at  right  angles,  at  the  extre- 
mities of  which,  are  Grecian  temples,  forming  beautiful  terminations. 
One  of  the  shrines  is  dedicated  to  Ceres.  In  front  are  four  columns 
with  an  elegant  frieze.  The  pillars  appear  to  be  ancient.  Statues, 
fountains,  and  pavilions,  fill  the  woods. 

I  trod  most  of  the  umbrageous  paths,  and  at  length  came  to  the  prin- 
cipal lodge,  which  is  lost  among  the  trees.  It  is  a  noble  edifice  filled 
with  the  works  of  art.  Numerous  saloons  open  into  a  sjjacious  hall, 
forming  the  vestibule,  the  vaulted  roof  of  which  is  highly  embellished. 
On  the  wall,  facing  the  front  door,  is  the  celebrated  equestrian  statue, 
in  alto-relievo,  of  Curtius,  leapinir  into  the  gulf  which  opened  in  the 
Roman  Forum.  The  horse  is  said  to  be  an  antique,  but  the  figure  of 
the  rider,  modern.     This  famous  piece  of  sculpture,  did  not  strike  me 

VOL.  ir.  in 


362         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

very  forcibly.  The  legs  of  the  steed  are  coiled  up  in  a  way  whicli  ap- 
pears unnatural,  even  while  leaping  through  the  air.  There  is  neither 
boldness  nor  freedom  in  the  manner.  The  expression  of  Curtius'  face 
is  the  strongest  point  in  the  group. 

Frescos  of  the  very  first  order  adorn  the  ceilings  of  the  vestibule 
and  the  other  apartments.  There  is  also  a  rich  collection  of  statuary. 
Apollo  and  Daphne,  by  Bernini,  form  a  tine  group.  The  nymph  is 
just  in  the  act  of  being  changed  into  a  laurel,  the. leaves  of  which  are 
springing  from  her  hands,  and  her  feet  cling  like  roots  to  the  rocks  :  the 
bark  also  is  beginning  to  envelope  her  snowy  trunk.  A  passage  from 
the  Metamorphoses  of  Ovid,  whence  the  subject  is  taken,  is  inscribed 
on  the  pedestal.  In  the  same  room  is  another  group,  representing 
iEneas  bearing  Anchises  from  the  flames  of  Troy,  with  little  lulus  at 
his  side.  The  drapery  is  admirable.  Four  large  vases  of  alabaster, 
and  one  of  verde  antique,  are  superb  ornaments,  perfect  in  form  and 
finish.  Among  the  rarer  pieces  of  sculpture,  are  a  sleeping  herma- 
phrodite, and  the  original  of  the  two  children  in  Trentanove's  Studio. 
Hundreds  of  copies  of  the  latter  have  been  taken.  The  paintings  are 
not  numerous,  nor  remarkably  choice.  One  of  the  best  is  the  Lion 
Hunt. 

Some  repairs  and  removals  are  going  on  at  the  Lodge.  The  floor  of 
one  apartment  was  heaped  with  disjointed  statues — heads  in  one  place, 
legs,  arms,  and  hands,  in  another.  It  looked  like  the  dissecting  room 
of  an  anatomist.  To  the  traveller  who  has  visited  the  Belvidere  on 
the  Alban  Mount,  the  Borghese  Palace  on  the  banks  of  the  Tiber,  and 
the  splendid  attractions  of  these  grounds,  it  appears  strange  that  the 
wealthy  proprietor  should  be  willing  to  leave  such  princely  residences, 
with  the  skies  of  Italy  and  the  monuments  of  Rome,  for  the  crowded 
and  noisy  streets  of  Paris  or  London.  But  there  is  no  accounting  for 
tastes.  The  Prince  is  said  to  be  a  fat  easy  man,  fond  of  eating  and 
sleeping,  caring  little  for  classical  antiquities  or  the  works  of  modern 
art. 

In  the  evening  we  went  to  see  the  Pope  give  the  finishing  touch  to 
his  new  saint.  At  8  o'clock  he  brushed  along  through  the  congrega- 
ted multitude,  blessing  the  people  as  he  passed,  who  all  prostrated 
themselves  upon  the  pavement.  There  was  such  an  immense  throng, 
that  I  could  see  or  hear  little  of  what  was  going  on  at  the  altar. 
Prayers  were  said,  and  hymns  of  beatification  sung.  The  whole  front 
of  the  church,  and  the  streets  in  the  vicinity,  were  brilliantly  illumina- 
ted. At  the  conclusion  of  the  ceremonies,  a  splendid  volley  of  fire- 
works was  let  off",  on  the  square  in  front  of  the  chapel ;  and  the  modern 
saint,  like  the  ancient  prophet^  might -lae  said  to  have  ascended  in  a 


LEIT'ERS  FROM  EUROPE.  3G3 

chariot  of  flame.  The  nocturnal  festival  was  prolonged  to  a  late  hour. 
Houses  hung  with  banners  of  crimson,  and  balconies  filled  with  circles 
of  Roman  beauty,  certainly  presented  a  brilliant  spectacle. 

While  we  were  at  breakfast  next  morning,  word  came  tliat  the 
churcli  of  the  Capuchins  was  burnt  down,  from  the  illumination 
of  the  night  previous.  Here  was  a  most  ominous  and  unlucky  occur- 
rence, as  well  for  liis  Hohness  as  his  Saintship.  Although  Beato 
Angelo  could  work  other  miracles,  and  excite  celestial  flames,  he  could 
not  use  the  bucket  and  quench  terrestrial  fires.  His  own  image  and 
the  brazen  radii  of  his  glory  suflfcred  in  the  conflagration.  This  catas- 
trophe was  hard  of  explanation,  and  staggered  the  faithful.  In  other 
countries,  it  would  be  accounted  a  judgment  from  heaven,  for  the 
mockery  of  deifying  a  monk.  After  finishing  our  coflTcc,  we  walked  to 
the  scene  of  desolation,  which  last  evening  was  so  brilliant  and  so  gay. 
The  front  of  the  chapel  was  entirely  consinned,  and  other  parts  sustain- 
ed much  injury.  Cinders  were  strewed  among  the  wreaths,  with 
which  the  brows  of  madonnas  and  saints  were  entwined.  While  other 
articles  of  furniture  were  seared,  it  is  remarkable,  that  the  splendid 
picture  of  Guide's  Archangel,  denominated  the  Catholic  Apollo,  pass- 
ed through  the  flames  without  detriment,  although  it  was  suspended 
over  an  altar  near  the  front  door.  It  is  a  noble  production,  perhaps 
the  chef  d'oeuvres  of  its  author.  Copies  of  it  have  been  multiplied 
without  number.  The  Archangel  is  represented  in  the  attitude  of 
treading  upon  the  Prince  of  Darkness. 


364         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

LETTER  LXXVII. 

ROME    CONTINUED — BARBERINI    PALACE — STUDIO    OF    CANOVA THOE' 

WALDSEN COLONNA    PALACE MICHAEL  AlVGELO's  STATUE  OF  MOSES 

STUDIO    OF    CAMUCCINI SCIARRA     PALACE ANNIVERSARY    OP   ST. 

JOHN PALAZZO      FARNESINA JEWS     AT      ROME VILLA      JIATTEI 

CHURCH  OF  ST.  STEPHEN — STUDIO  OF  LANDI  AND  CAVALIERE. 

June,  1826. 

The  morning  of  the  20tli  was  occupied  in  a  visit  to  the  Barberini 
Palace,  which  possesses  few  external  attractions.     In  the  vestibule  is 
a  celebrated  fresco  by  Pietro  da  Cortona.     It  is  divided  into  numerous 
compartments,  the  subjects  of  which  are  disconnected.     The  allegories 
in  some  instances,  are  abstract  and  confused,  requiring  an  interpreter 
to  expound  them.     Among  the  ornaments  of  the  rooms,  is  a  series  of 
medallions,  giving  views  of  London,  Paris,  and  the  cities  of  German3% 
In  the  audience  chamber  is  a  throne,  with  a  canopy  of  green   baize, 
bearing  a  tawdry  exhibition   of  the  family  arms,  which  in  one  of  the 
frescos  are  represented  as  borne  to  heaven  by  the  Virtues,  in  the  pre- 
sence of  Providence,   Time,   Eternity,  and  the  Fates  !     Before  the 
throne,  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  the  floor  was  heaped  with  a  pile  of  dirty 
tags  of  wool,  shattered  trunks,   baskets,  and  other  lumber,  which  did 
not  very  well  comport  with  the  images  of  high  nobility.     The  collec- 
tion of  statues  is  indifferent,  with  the  exception  of  one  or  two  pieces, 
ascribed  to  Michael  Angelo.     In  the  gallery  are  many  good  pictures, 
among  which,  are  an  exact  copy  of  Guide's   Archangel,  mentioned 
above,  and  a  dupMcate  of  La  Fornarina,  by  Raphael  himself.     She  dif- 
fers widely,  in  character  and  style,  from  the  divine  portrait  in  the  Flo- 
rentine gallery.     It  would  seem  as  if  the  artist  in  that  work  surpassed 
himself,  and  in  moments  of  less  inspiration,  found  the  touches  of  his 
own  pencil  inimitable.     Potiphar's   wife  and    Joseph  make  a  most 
luscious  picture.     Never  were  voluptuousness  and  chastity  more  for- 
cibly contrasted.     The  pencil  has  been  true  to  the  scriptural  narrative. 
She  has  just  risen  from  her  couch  in  dishabille,  or  rather,  imperfectly 
draped,  with  her  bosom  open,  and  her  cheek  flushed.     Her  naked  foot 
is  planted  upon  that  of  the  young  Israelite,  in  the  struggle  to  drag  him 
back.     His  face  and  figure  express  coldness,  composure,  and  determi- 
ned  resolution.     The  wall  of  one  of  the  rooms  is  almost  entirely 
covered  with  the  Supper  of  the  Gods ;  and  another  by  the  Triumph  of 
Bacchus.     Their  dimensions  are  perhaps,  their  most  remarkable  fea- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  'Mo 

tures.  Here  are  two  landscapes,  by  Claude  ;  a  portrait  of  Beatrice 
Cenci,  by  Guido  ;  and  a  guitar-player,  by  Caravaggio  ;  Adam  and 
Eve  driven  from  Paradise,  by  Domenichino — all  works  of  extraordina- 
ry merit. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  called  at  the  Studii  of  two  young  American 
artists,  the  one  a  sculptor  and  the  other  a  painter,  wlio  are  residing  at 
Rome,  for  the  purpose  of  improving  themselves  in  their  respective 
professions.  Surely,  a  better  school  could  not  be  selected,  than  a  city 
which  is  said  to  contain  more  statues  than  inhabitants,  and  where  the 
galleries  abounding  in  the  most  exquisite  models,  are  open  to  the  gra- 
tuitous use  of  the  student.  We  found  both  of  the  aspirants  and  can- 
didates for  future  fame,  engaged  in  their  pursuits,  the  one  in  moulding 
images  in  clay,  and  the  other  in  filling  up  the  outlines  of  his  sketches. 
It  is  thus  the  arts  of  Italy  will  eventually  hn  transported  beyond  the 
Atlantic,  and  new  Raphaels  and  Michael  Angelos  arise  in  the 
west. 

The  next  morning  Signer  Trentanove  was  so  polite  as  to  caH  and 
accompany  us  to  the  Studio  of  Canova,  which  now  belongs  to  a  bro- 
ther of  the  celebrated  artist,  and  is  rented  to  a  third  person.  We  were 
ushered  at  once  into  a  numerous  collection  of  models  and  marbles, 
which  to  unpractised  eyes,  appeared  to  possess  extraordinary  merit. 
But  it  is  the  prevailing  opinion  in  Italy,  that  Canova  made  few  faultless 
statues.  Some  allusion  has  already  been  made  to  his  defects,  in  my 
remarks  on  the  Vatican.  To  others  I  leave  the  task  of  criticism  and 
censure  :  be  it  mine  to  admire  and  praise  the  man,  who  could  call  such 
light,  such  graceful,  and  animated  beings  from  the  marble.  He  gave 
his  attention  chiefly  to  the  forms  of  beauty  ;  and  in  delicacy,  in  tender- 
ness of  expression,  in  softness,  and  repose,  he  appears  to  me  almost 
without  a  rival.  Of  this  remark,  his  Sleeping  Loves,  his  Cupid,  and 
Psyche,  furnish  striking  illustrations.  His  Venuses  are  numerous, 
presented  in  an  endless  variety  of  attitudes.  Some  of  them  are  exqui- 
sitely beautiful.  Their  forms  are  light  and  symmetrical  as  angels.  In 
the  delicacy  of  hands,  feet,  and  ankles,  it  appears  to  me,  he  has  impro- 
ved upon  the  ancients  ;  but  as  the  latter  are  supposed  to  be  perfect, 
the  former  is  accused  of  refining  upon  nature.  May  not  something  be 
ascribed  to  the  original  models,  which  artists  have  copied  ?  The 
standard  of  female  beauty  is  surely  not  the  same  in  all  countries.  I 
am  satisfied,  that  one  of  Titian's  living  Venuses  would  not  be  ad- 
mired by  a  person  of  delicate  and  refined  taste. 

But  to  return  from  abstract  to  corporeal  forms  of  beauty  :  this  Studio 
contains  a  copy  of  the  Venus  in  the  Pitti  palace  at  Florence,  which  is 
Hally  equal  to  the  original.     In  some  points,  I  think  it  decidedly  supc- 


3(30  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

rior.     A  group  of  Graces  touch  the  earth  with  fairy  footsteps,  as  if  they 
had  just  hghted  upon  our  sphere.     But  the  most  inimitable  of  all  the 
pieces,  is  a  small  statue  of  Paulina,  the  Princess  Borghese,  who  might 
be  made  very   beautiful,  and  still  be  true  to  nature,  if  her  personal 
charms  are  not  exaggerated.     She  is  represented  in  the  character  of  a 
Venus,  very  slightly  draped,  sleeping  upon  a  couch.     The  Paphian 
queen  herself,  did  not  possess  more  beauty,  lightness  of  form,  grace, 
and  ease,  than  does  this  statue.     In  what  manner  it  could  have  been 
decently  taken,  and  how  a  female,  whatever  might  be  her  character, 
could  permit  herself  to  be  thus  exposed  to  the  public  gaze,  while  she 
was  yet  living,  I  leave  it  for  others   to  conjecture.     Canova  was  not 
fortunate  in  the  expression  of  moral  grandeur.     Critics  consider  his 
Hector  and  Ajax   in  some  degree  a  failure.     There  is  nevertheless 
much  merit  in  the  group,  though  it  is  far  from  being  one  of  his  happi- 
est efforts.     Among  the  hundred  other  pieces,  is  a  full  length  statue  of 
Washington,  seated  at  a  table  in  the  attitude  of  writing.     The  likeness 
is  not  good  :  indeed  it  would  hardly  have  been  recognized,  strong  and 
peculiar  as  is  the  face  of  the  illustrious  subject.     He  was  still  more 
unfortunate  in  his  colossal  Napoleon  :  we  did  not  know  him.     A  view 
of  the  Neapolitan  horses  afforded  me  little  pleasure.     One  looks  at 
them  as  he  would  at  an  elephant — chiefly  on  account  of  their  enormous 
bulk.     The  narrow  rooms  of  a  workshop  are  not  the  place  to  examine 
the  proportions,  and  judge  of  the  merits  of  such  huge  animals. 

On  the  same  day,  we  visited  the  two  Studii  of  the  justly  celebrated 
Thorwaldsen.  Signor  Trentanove  introduced  us  to  the  great  artist, 
whom  we  found  in  one  of  his  shops,  playing  with  his  dog.  He  is  now 
at  the  age  of  about  50  ;  in  his  person,  short  and  thick  set  ;  with  a  full 
face,  grey  hair,  well  dressed,  and  a  profusion  of  Italian  rings  upon  his 
fingers.  He  is  a  Dane  by  birth,  self-educated,  without  a  family,  and 
has  acquired  a  princely  fortune  by  his  profession.  In  his  manners,  he 
is  plain  and  unassuming.  He  is  the  most  prominent  artist  now  in  Italy, 
universally  known,  and  as  universally  admired.  In  the  estimation  of 
the  public,  he  was  in  advance  of  Canova,  before  the  death  of  the  latter, 
and  splendid  additions  have  since  been  made  to  his  reputation.  His 
forte  lies  in  bass-rehefs  ;  but  he  excels  in  all  the  departments  of  his 
profession. 

The  first  statue  we  examined  in  his  shop,  would  not  justify  the  fore- 
going panegyric.  It  was  a  Mars,  with  a  contracted,  short  face,  a 
square  nose  and  without  dignity  or  grandeur.  The  next  article,  the 
Triumph  of  Alexander,  a  series  of  bassi-rilievi,  corrected  our  first  im- 
pressions, and  gave  us  an  exalted  idea  of  the  genius  and  skill  of  this 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        3G7 

artist  It  is  one  of  the  greatest  works  of  the  present  age  ;  splendid 
both  in  design  and  execution.  But  his  Christ  and  the  twelve  Apostles, 
made  for  a  church,  in  his  native  country,  may  be  considered  as  his 
chef  d'ceuvres.  He  is  said  to  be  better  pleased  with  the  face  of  the 
Saviour,  than  with  any  other  of  his  works.  It  is  indeed  divine.  No- 
thing can  exceed  it  in  majesty,  dignity,  and  sweetness.  The  best 
judges  regard  it  as  a  masterly  conception,  embodied  with  adnnrablo 
skill.  In  most  cases.  Apostles  look  all  alike  ;  but  Thorvvaldsen  has 
contrived  to  give  to  his  group  awonderful  variety  of  expression,  suited 
to  their  characters. 

He  has  just  finished  a  colossal  horse  for  Poland.  So  far  as  we  could 
judge  of  such  a  work  in  its  present  position,  it  is  unequalled  in  attitude, 
spirit,  and  the  justness  of  its  proportions.  The  head  of  the  steqd  is 
fourteen  feet  from  tlie  pedestal,  and  his  body  is  about  twenty  feet  in 
length.  "  His  neck  is  clothed  with  thunder  ;"  and  a  prouder  or  more 
fiery  charger  never  trod  tiie  earth.  The  statue  of  Copernicus  is  ano- 
ther work  of  great  merit.  It  is  larger  than  life.  The  astronomer  is 
represented  in  a  sitting  contemplative  posture,  holding  in  his  hand  his 
own  planetary  system. 

In  his  conception  and  expression  of  the  beautiful,  Thorwaldsen  is 
equally  successful  as  in  his  productions  of  a  loftier  and  more  mascu- 
line character.  Of  this  remark,  his  Shepherd  furnishes  a  strikmg  illus- 
tration. It  is  a  faultless  statue,  personifying  all  the  gentleness,  inno- 
cence, and  quiet  of  a  pastoral  life.  A  small  Mercury  is  another  play- 
ful eflort,  evincing  the  versatility  of  his  talent  and  his  admirable  skill. 
I  was  pleased  to  see  with  what  cordiality  Signer  Trentanove  was  re- 
ceived in  these  extensive  Studii,  and  what  kindness  he  manifested  to- 
wards the  young  artists,  who  were  busy  in  their  respective  pursuits. 
He  in  several  instances  lent  a  hand  to  others,  at  the  expense  of  soiling 
his  own,  thrusting  his  fingers  into  the  plaster,  to  mould  a  feature  or  a 
limb,  when  he  saw  it  out  of  proportion. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  went  to  the  Colonna  palace,  which  is  among 
the  largest  and  most  splendid  at  Home.  The  Prince,  who  is  its  pro- 
prietor, resides  at  Naples.  He  is  a  descendant  of  the  illustrious  fami- 
ly, renowned  in  the  history  of  Italy,  and  celebrated  among  other  things, 
for  their  friendship  to  Petrarch.  The  principal  gallery  is  two  hundred 
feet  in  length,  supported  by  beautiful  columns,  with  a  lofty  arched 
ceiling.  It  is  filled  with  the  works  of  art.  On  opposite  sides  arc 
two  curious  cabinets  ;  one  of  mosaic,  made  at  Florence  ;  and  the 
other  of  wood,  manufactured  by  a  German.  The  latter  is  ornament- 
ed in  front  with  medallions,  one  of  which  contains  a  miniature  copy 
of  Michael  Angelo's  Last  Judgment.     Among  the  most  interesting 


368        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

pictures,  are  portraits  of  Luther  and  Calvin,  by  Titian.  Their  clia* 
racters  are  well  expressed  in  their  faces.  Two  of  the  Colonna  family 
were  painted  by  Vandyck.  St.  John  in  the  Wilderness,  by  Salvator 
Rosa,  is  worthy  of  his  pencil  and  of  a  subject,  to  which  his  talents 
"were  peculiarly  suited.  A  quaint  piece  by  Perugino,  the  master  of 
Raphael,  is  preserved  rather  as  a  curiosity,  than  for  its  intrinsic  merits. 
Several  landscapes  by  Caspar  Poussin  I  could  not  admire  ;  and  there 
is  one  indifferent  Claude,  if  it  be  from  Claude's  pencil.  The  gallery 
contains  some  fine  productions  of  the  Flemish  School.  There  are 
few  statues,  and  none  of  great  excellence.  The  marble  tables  are  ex- 
tremely elegant. 

Towards  evening  1  rambled  to  the  church  of  San  Pietro  in  Vincolo, 
situated  on  a  hill,  near  the  Roman  Forum.  An  old  monk,  belonging 
to  a  neighbouring  convent,  conducted  me  to  the  Moses  of  Michael 
Angelo,  the  principal  object  of  my  visit.  It  has  been  the  fortune  of 
this  work  to  call  forth  extravagant  panegyrics,  as  well  as  severe  criti- 
cisms— one  proof  among  others,  that  it  is  not  of  an  ordinary  stamp.  It 
is  of  white  marble,  exquisitely  wrought,  whatever  may  be  the  defects 
in  the  design.  The  Jewish  lawgiver  is  seated  in  his  robes,  expressing 
great  dignity  in  his  attitude,  as  well  as  in  his  face.  Two  rays,  ema- 
nating from  his  brow,  certainly  give  him  an  awkward  appearance,  and 
have  led  certain  connoisseurs  to  take  the  statue  by  the  horns.  There 
are  several  good  pictures  in  this  church,  which  is  also  rich  in  marbles. 

The  next  day  we  visited  the  Studio  of  Camuccini,  the  greatest  living 
painter  in  Italy,  whose  two  historical  pictures  in  the  Palazzo  Reale  at 
Naples,  and  two  others  in  the  Royal  Palace  at  Capo  di  Monte,  had 
raised  expectations,  not  destined  to  disappointment  in  an  examination 
of  the  artist's  own  gallery.  His  Departure  of  Re_ulus  is  in  my  opi- 
nion a  production  of  the  very  first  order — chaste,  classical,  and  Roman 
in  its  character.  It  is  perhaps  twenty  feet  in  length,  and  ten  in  breadth, 
comprising  twenty-one  figures  as  large  as  life.  The  principal  person- 
atres  in  the  group  are  Regulus,  his  wife,  two  daughters,  and  the  Ro- 
man Consul.  The  scene  is  laid  upon  the  sea-shore  near  the  mouth  of 
the  Tiber  ;  and  the  ship,  which  is  to  bear  the  stern  Republican  Con- 
sul back  to  Carthage,  is  seen  with  her  canvass  spread.  In  attitude, 
costume,  and  expression,  the  pencil  has  bcea  true  to  nature  ;  and  the 
anguish  of  the  parting  moment — the  firmness  of  Regulus  and  the 
tenderness  of  his  family — could  not  be  more  forcibly  depicted.  The 
colouring  is  somewhat  in  the  French  style,  and  is  a  little  too  glaring. 
This  picture  has  been  purchased  by  a  Russian,  and  is  destined  to  St. 
Petersburgh.  It  is  much  the  finest  in  the  Studio,  though  some  others 
possess  great  merit.     The  subjects  of  nearly  all  of  them  are  historical. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  ;JGJ) 

judiciously  chosen  and  happily  designed.  From  all  1  could  learn,  this 
artist  is  a  man  of  genius,  skill,  taste,  and  industry.  Kc  has  painted 
much,  and  painted  well.  When  time  has  mellowed  and  harmonized 
his  tints,  I  can  perceive  no  reason  why  lie  may  not  be  ranked  among 
the  great  masters  of  Italy.  Among  his  minor  pieces  are  a  Russian 
lady  and  her  two  children,  a  charming  group  ;  also  a  fine  portrait  of 
Thorwaldsen. 

From  the  Studio  \vc  continued  our  walk  to  the  Sciarra  Palace,  situa- 
ted upon  the  Corso.  A  comparatively  small  but  select  gallery  of 
paintings  occupies  four  apartments.  There  is  scarcely  a  mean  pic- 
ture in  the  collection.  We  were  most  pleased  with  two  Magdalenes 
by  Guido.  Like  Ovid's  Sisters,  in  the  family  of  Niobc,  both  look 
alike,  and  are  yet  different.  Penitence  and  piety  have  seldom  been 
better  expressed.  Vanity  and  Modesty,  by  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  is  a 
rare  production,  and  more  admired  than  any  piece  in  the  collection. 
Its  dimensions  do  not  exceed  three  or  four  feet  square  ;  and  yet  an 
Englishman  offered  for  it  the  enormous  sum  of  ^10,000.  The  sub- 
ject is  extremely  happy,  the  conception  powerful,  and  the  contrast  be- 
tween the  two  personifications  forcibly  depicted.  Caravaggio's  Gam- 
blers cheating  a  youth  ;  a  head  by  Raphael ;  Guide's  Moses  ;  a  comic 
scene,  by  Teniers  ;  and  several  landscapes,  by  Claude,  are  in  the  best 
style  of  their  respective  authors.  An  old  white-headed  custode,  ex- 
tremely polite  and  obliging,  contributed  his  share  to  render  our  visit 
agreeable. 

On  the  24th,  we  paid  another  visit  to  St.  John  Lateran,  to  witness 
the  ceremonies  on  the  birthday  of  the  Apostle,  to  whom  the  church  is 
dedicated.  The  Pope,  his  cardinals,  the  nobility,  and  the  whole  city 
were  assembled  to  celebrate  this  great  festival.  At  an  early  hour,  the 
Corso  and  the  other  principal  streets  were  thronged  with  splendid  equi- 
pages. Foremost  of  the  multitude,  in  style  and  show,  was  the  French 
minister,  with  his  train  of  chasseurs,  and  half  a  dozen  footmen,  who 
preceded  his  coach  as  pioneers.  He  made  himself  ridiculous  in  the 
eyes  of  all  pt-ople  of  sense.  The  display  of  Roman  beauty  was  never 
more  brilliant,  than  on  this  bright  day.  Their  fine  symmetrical  forms 
were  arrayed  in  the  richest  robes,  and  their  liquid  hazel  eyes  beamed 
in  impassioned  softness.  The  exercises  in  the  church  were  little  more 
than  a  repetition  of  the  mummery,  which  took  place  on  Ascension- 
day,  described  in  a  former  letter.  His  Holiness  was  again  borne  about 
the  aisles,  pale  as  a  ghost,  wrapped  in  his  pontifical  robes,  waving  his 
skeleton  hand  sparkling  with  diamonds,  bending  the  tiara  upon  his 
brow,  and  muttering  a  benediction  upon  his  abased  subjects.  Mass 
and  music  were  said  and  sung  in  the  usual  style.     The  Scala  Santa 

VOL.  II.  17 


370         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

was  crowdcil  with  dcvotros,  and  (lie  confessorics,  with  penitents.  I 
saw  several  Austrian  soldiers  whispcrin2;  tlioir  oHences  in  the  ears  of 
priests,  who  might  whisper  back  their  own  in  turn.  Hundreds  of  tlie 
plebeian  throng  were  observed  bearing  in  their  hands  stalks  of  the  seed 
onion  and  garlic,  which  on  this  festival  receive  the  blessing  of  the 
Pope  !  It  is  snpposetl  the  fruits  of  the  earth  will  not  succeed  without 
his  benediction — a  strange  article  of  faith  in  a  region,  which  the 
stewards  of  St.  Peter  have  rendered  sterile  and  unproductive. 

After  the  show  at  St.  .lohn  Lateran  was  over,  we  visited  Uie  Palazzo 
Farnesina  beyond  the  Tiber,  to  examine  some  rare  frescos,  by  Ra- 
phael and  his  scholars.  They  cover  the  ceiling  of  a  loft)  and  splendid 
liall,  which  is  bordered  with  waving  clusters  of  fruit.  The  principal 
work  is  the  Feast  of  the  Gods,  comprising  a  full  assemblage  of  the 
lieathen  divinities,  engaged  in  the  convivial  rites  of  the  symposium,  and 
each  wearing  the  emblems  of  his  power.  In  a  corner  of  the  saloon, 
is  a  of'^iup  of  the  Graces,  one  of  which  is  ascribed  solely  to  the  pencil 
of  Raphael.  An  adjoining  room  contains  his  celebrated  Galatea. 
The  chariot  is  drawn  by  dolphins,  and  above  it  are  seen  Cupids  volant, 
shootinji  their  arrows,  Parthian  like,  as  they  fly.  A  colossal  head  on 
the  wall  is  ascribed  to  Michael  Angelo.  Its  history,  as  derived  from 
the  custode,  is  as  follows  : — while  Raphael  was  painting  these  rooms, 
Buonaroti  stepped  in  one  day,  and  finding  no  one  present,  climbed  the 
sealfolding,  and  drew  the  outlines  of  the  head  with  a  piece  of  char- 
coal. On  reluming  to  his  work,  Raphael  found  the  sketch,  and  in- 
quired who  had  been  there.  No  one  knew.  From  a  close  examina- 
tion, he  recognized  the  touches  of  his  great  rival,  and  ordered  the  head 
to  be  fmished,  as  it  now  stands.  Others  say,  that  Michael  Angelo  in- 
tended it  as  a  criticism  upon  the  too  diminutive  decorations  of  the 
room. 

In  the  aflernoon  we  visited  a  district  of  the  city  between  the  Fornm 
and  the  Tiber,  where  all  the  Jews,  to  the  number  of  eight  thousand, 
are  inhumanly  shut  up  at  night  under  lock  and  key,  like  so  many  cattle. 
They  have  here  a  synagogue,  small  but  rich.  It  is  of  the  Corinthian 
order,  with  gilt  columns.  The  history  and  religion  of  the  Israelites 
are  illustrated  in  compartments  of  bass-relief  on  the  upper  part  of  the 
wall.  The  aged  Jew,  who  otficiates  in  the  temple,  opened  the  Holy 
of  Holies  for  our  inspection.  It  is  rich  in  embroidered  silks  and  other 
ornaments.  The  reading-desk  and  galleries  for  females  are  like  those 
in  the  synagogue  at  Leghorn.  We  saw  many  of  the  persecuted  race. 
They  have  dark  complexions,  and  the  same  contour  of  face,  which 
marks  this  peculiar  people  the  world  over. 

On  the  '2Cth,  wc  descended  the  Tiber,  through  the  whole  extent  of 


LKTTEIIS   I  KO.^I  EUJIOPK.  Hit 

the  city,  in  a  row-boat,  and  landinjr  at  the  ancient  port,  wont  tlicncc  to 
the  Villa  Mattci,  on  the  C^x'lian  Mount.  'I'iiis  charming  retreat,  situa- 
ted under  the  walls  of  Rome,  and  conimandinj^  a  fine  view  of  the 
ruins  of  Ciiraralla's  baths,  is  a  part  of  the  estates  of  the  celebrated 
Spanish  I'rincc  of  Peace,  who  was  notorious  for  his  licentiousness  and 
liis  amours  in  Spain.  A  large  tract  of  land  in  the  vicinity  belongs  to 
the  villa.  The  groimdsare  laid  out  with  c.onsiilcrable  taste,  ornament- 
ed with  trees,  part(!rres,  shady  walks,  statuf^s,  and  a  lolly  Kgyplian 
Obelisk,  in  the  Lodge  are  two  good  statues — a  Venus  and  a  Nero, 
by  (Janova  ;  a  fantastic  poi trait  of  the;  (pjeeii  of  Sfiain  ;  and  several 
splendid  vases  of  alabast(!r,  Idled  with  luscious  clusters  of  imitation 
grapes.  'I'he  collection  of  statuary  and  painting  consists  chiefly  of 
copies.  We  here  saw  a  new  kind  of  [)Iay,  called  "  the  devil-on-two- 
sticks."      It  is  a  puerile  amusement,  ht  oidy  for  [iriiices  and  children. 

In  front  of  the  church  of  Santa  Maria  della  Navicella,  we  examined 
a  model  of  a  lloman  (Jalley,  sculptured  in  marble,  which  was  pre- 
sented as  a  votive  offering  to  the  shrine  and  gave  name  to  the  chapel. 
It  is  of  large  dimensions,  and  placed  upon  stocks,  at  considerable 
elevation  from  the  ground.  It  possesses  some  interest  both  as  a 
work  of  art,  and  still  more  as  furnishing  an  illustration  of  the  classics. 

We  continued  our  excursion  hence  to  the  church  of  St.  Stephen  in 
Rotondo,  the  skeleton  of  an  ancient  temple  built  by  Vespasian.  It 
is  in  a  circular  form,  supported  by  double  rows  of  anticjue  columns. 
In  compartments  round  the  walls,  the  tortures  of  the  early  Christians, 
from  the  reign  of  Nero  downward,  are  minutely  d(;lineated,  with  refer- 
ences and  explanatory  inscriptions.  The  exhibition  is  horrid  beyond  de- 
scription. Bodies  arc  s(;en  lacerated  and  manglcid  in  the  most  shock- 
ing manner.  Ingenuity  seems  to  have  been  put  to  the  rack,  in  devi- 
sing the  most  excpiisite  modes  of  torture.  Fire  and  sword,  boiling 
caldrons,  gridirons,  and  dens  of  wild  beasts,  are  here  portrayed  to 
the  life.  While  we  were  examining  the  church,  the  sound  of  revelry 
and  loud  laughter  was  heard  in  the  cloisters  of  an  adjoining  convent. 
It  proceeded  from  a  society  of  monks,  who  were  making  themselves 
merry  over  their  viands  and  wine.  One  of  the  attendants  spread  a 
table  for  us,  in  an  af)artment  of  the  old  monastery,  and  brought  us  an 
excellent  kind  of  small  fish  from  the  Tiber,  with  a  glass  of  Orvietto. 

Pursuing  our  ramble  over  the  Caelian  Mount,  we  passed  under  the 
ancient  arch  of  Dolabella,  and  visited  the  church  of  St.  Ciregory,  for 
the  purpose  of  examining  the  rival  frescos  of  (Juido  and  Domenichirio. 
Both  are  fine  ;  but  the  work  of  the  former  is  in  my  opinion  much  the 
best.  The  chapel  contains  a  statue  of  St.  Gregory  by  Michael  Angelo. 
It  is  worthy  of  his  chisel.     A  curious  Latin  inscription  states,  that 


372         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

while  the  patron  saint  was  entertaining  twelve  pilgrims  at  his  table,  a 
thirteenth  guest  appeared  among  them,  who  proved  to  be  an  angel. 
Whether  he  ate  and  drank  with  the  rest,  the  legend  saith  not.  In  re- 
turning by  the  Arch  of  Titus,  we  saw  a  crowd  collected  to  fish  the 
dead  body  of  a  young  man  out  of  a  deep  pit,  into  which  he  had  preci- 
pitated himself,  in  a  fit  of  love  or  insanity.  At  evening  we  had  a  de- 
lightful stroll  along  the  bank  of  the  Tiber,  between  the  Porta  del  Popolo 
and  the  Milvian  Bridge. 

On  the  28th,  Signor  Trentanove  called  and  accompanied  us  to  the 
Studio  of  the  Cavalier  Landi,  a  living  painter  of  much  eminence.  His 
principal  work  is  the  Triumph  of  Mary  Stuart,  Queen  of  Scots.  The 
scene  is  laid  at  Paris.  Lord  Darnley  is  a  prominent  person  upon  the 
canvass,  but  badly  executed.  The  best  figure  is  a  Highland  Soldier,  in 
his  national  costume.  In  another  apartment,  is  a  small  historical  pic- 
ture ;  and  an  undraped  Venus,  not  remarkable  for  her  attractions.  A 
call  was  also  made  at  the  Studio  of  Cavaliere,  a  young  artist  of  great 
promise.  The  English  appear  to  be  the  best  patrons  of  the  arts  at 
Rome.  We  here  saw  Lady  Childers,  in  her  splendid  costume,  worn 
at  one  of  Torlonia's  great  balls  ;  Lord  Stackpole  and  his  family,  taken 
in  the  attitude  of  kneeling  during  a  presentation  to  the  Pope  ;  and  an 
English  huntsman  in  full  dress.  Among  other  sights,  I  this  afternoon 
saw  the  original  of  Canova's  Venus,  at  a  window  across  a  narrow 
street.  She  thrust  out  her  head  and  rested  sometime,  as  if  on  purpose 
to  show  her  pretty  face,  her  snowy  neck,  and  alabaster  arms. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         373 

LETTER  LXXVIIl. 

ROME    CONCLUDED — FESTIVAL    OF    ST.     PETER — ILLUMINATION    OF     HIS 

CHURCH FIKEWOEKS  OF  ST.   ANGELO MONTE  CAVALLO TEMPLE  OF 

THE  SUN .MASSIMI  PALACE A  SUMMER    DAY  IN  ROME MAL'aRIA 

CEREMONY  OF  TAKING  THE  VEIL THEATRES ACADEMY  OF  ST.  LUKE 

SKULL  OF  RAPHAEL CELEBRATION  OF  THE  FOURTH  OF  JULY AME- 
RICAN CONSUL. 

June— July,  1826. 

In  the  evening  of  the  28th  we  accompanied  Signor  Trentanove  to  the 
Princess  Gabrielli's,  to  witness  the  illumination  of  St.  Peter's.  A  first 
view  was  obtained  in  crossing  the  bridge  of  St.  Angelo.  The  whole 
front  and  dome  of  the  church  were  brilliantly  lighted  up,  the  lamps 
being  disposed  in  fanciful  shapes,  and  investing  the  proud  pile  in  a 
golden  hue.  Pursuing  our  ride  through  th<3  principal  streets,  already 
thronged  with  the  congregated  city,  we  climbed  the  steep  ascent  of 
Mount  Janiculum,  on  the  brow  of  which  the  Villa  Gabrielli  is  situated, 
commanding  a  full  view  of  Rome  spreading  beneath.  The  spacious 
grounds  are  tastefully  laid  out,  intersected  by  walks  and  avenues,  sha- 
ded with  a  profusion  of  trees,  and  embellished  with  the  works  of  art. 
It  is  one  of  the  finest  situations  in  the  environs  of  Rome.  The  palace 
is  large,  stately,  and  elegant.  We  were  ushered  into  the  drawing-room 
and  presented  to  the  Prince  and  Princess.  She  is  a  tall  genteel  wo- 
man, the  daughter  of  Lucien  Bonaparte,  and  the  mother  of  four  lovely  ^ 
children.  She  is  extremely  polished  in  her  manners,  afl^able,  and 
agreeable.  It  is  said  the  King  of  Spain  wished  to  marry  her  ;  but 
she  refused  the  offer.  Some  one  told  her,  that  the  contemplated  mar- 
riage was  a  measure  of  state  policy,  and  that  her  refusal  would  give 
offence  to  Napoleon  her  uncle.  To  which  she  replied,  that  "  she  did 
not  fear  whom  she  did  not  love*' — an  answer  worthy  of  a  Roman  lady, 
in  the  days  of  the  Republic.  The  Prince  is  a  silent  man,  who  kept  his 
seat  most  of  the  evening,  and  said  little  to  any  one,  leaving  the  enter- 
tainment of  the  party  to  his  better  half  We  were  charmed  with  the 
simplicity  and  ease  which  prevail  in  this  family,  and  with  the  literary 
taste  which  the  Princess  has  inherited  from  her  father.  The  tables  in  . 
the  several  apartments  were  covered  with  books,  as  well  as  with  journals, 
in  Italian,  French,  and  English.  Many  of  the  Roman  nobility  were 
present,  among  whom  were  a  Marquis,  a  Count  and  his  charming 
Countess,  who  is  young,  handsome,  and  extremely  agreeable.  I  was 
as  much  delighted  with  her  conversation  and  frankness  of  manners,  as 


1374  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

with  her  personal  accomphshments.  Several  other  titled  ladies  were 
of  the  party  ;  as  also  a  Cardinal  and  several  ecclesiastical  dignitaries  in 
full  dress. 

At  9  o'clock  the  attention  of  every  one  was  attracted  to  St.  Peter's, 
which  was  lighted  up  with  larger  and  more  brilliant  lamps.  The  blaze 
was  communicated  with  the  rapidity  of  a  flash  of  lightning,  and  in  an 
instant  the  whole  exterior  of  the  immense  fabric  was  enveloped  in  a 
sheet  of  the  most  dazzling  efi'uigence.  It  was  indeed  a  brilliant  and 
beautiful  spectacle.  There  is  great  risk  in  making  the  preparations 
for  these  dluminations,  as  it  is  necessary  to  descend  by  ropes  to  every 
part  of  the  walls  and  dome.  Hundreds  have  been  killed,  and  the  ser- 
vice is  reckoned  so  dangerous,  that  the  workmen  all  make  their  wills 
and  partake  of  the  sacrament,  before  they  enter  upon  their  labours. 
The  expense  of  the  exhibition  is  also  heavy.  A  sufficient  sum  is 
wasted  in  oil  and  gunpowder,  on  each  return  of  St.  Peter's  birthday, 
to  endow  a  college  or  found  a  hospital.  Something,  however,  is  saved 
in  the  way  of  attracting  foreigners  to  Rome,  to  witness  these  splendid 
illuminations. 

At  10  o'clock,  the  fire-works  at  the  castle  of  St.  Angelo  commenced 
with  the  discharge  of  cannon,  and  with  the  eruption  of  torrents  of 
flame  in  every  possible  shape,  scarcely  less  copious  than  the  streams 
of  lava  from  a  volcano.  The  scene  was  indescribably  grand  and  im- 
posing. A  succession  of  volleys  continued  for  about  an  hour.  The 
blaze  was  so  intense,  that  the  whole  city  was  illuminated  with  the  glare. 
Domes,  palaces,  and  ruins,  the  Tiber  and  its  bridges,  reflecting  the 
flood  of  hght,  bursting  forth  like  electric  flashes,  presented  one  of  the 
sublimest  spectacles  1  have  ever  witnessed. 

Illuminated  buildings  were  seen  in  distant  parts  of  the  city.  The 
front  of  the  French  Academy,  on  the  Pincian  Hill,  was  splendidly 
lighted  up  ;  and  even  the  Villa  Gabrielli  exhibited  its  hundred  mimic 
lamps,  as  a  satellite  to  St.  Peter's.  Amidst  so  much  brilliancy,  in  the 
saloons  of  the  palace  as  well  as  abroad  in  the  city,  we  passed  a  most 
agreeable  and  delightful  evening,  which  was  protracted  to  a  late  hour, 
and  the  pleasures  of  which  will  long  be  cherished  with  the  fondest  re- 
/  collections. 

The  next  day  the  celebration  of  the  great  anniversary  was  resumed. 
At  9  o'clock  we  went  to  St.  Peter's,  to  hear  mass  and  witness  the  ce- 
remonies. An  immense  multitude  had  already  assenibled,  men,  wo- 
men, and  children,  patricians  and  plebeians,  monks,  priests,  and  cardi- 
nals, in  costumes  as  various  as  the  decorations  of  the  church.  The 
peasantry  from  the  neighbouring  villages  had  all  flocked  in,  and  were 
distinguishable  by  their  peculiarities  of  dress.     Those  from  Nettuno 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  375^ 

were  in  scarlet  robes,  trimmed  with  yellow  lace.  The  silver  skew- 
ers, neat  bodices,  and  pretty  faces  of  the  Alban  Mount  were  again  re- 
cognized. So  crowded  were  tlie  aisles,  that  we  found  it  diflicult  to 
reach  the  high  altar,  the  scene  of  the  religious  exercises. 

Soldiers  were  stationed  in  every  nook  and  corner,  to  keep  the  peace 
and  make  way  tor  the  dignitaries.  A  mihtary  band  occupied  the  nave, 
and  the  notes  of  martial  music  rang  through  the  chapels  and  domes. 
One  would  have  thougiit,  that  Peter  was  a  centurion  instead  of  a  saint. 
His  bronze  statue  was  on  this  festival  fantastically  decked  out,  with 
the  most  gorgeous  and  tawdry  ornaments,  lie  was  clad  in  an  under 
gown  of  dove-coloured  Canton  crape,  over  which  hung  a  pontifical 
scarlet  robe,  embossed  with  gold,  and  descending  gracefully  from  his 
shoulders.  The  tri|)le  crown,  studded  with  gems,  glittered  on  his 
sable  brow.  His  lingers  blazed  with  diannrnd  rings  ;  and  on  his 
breast  he  wore  a  golden  sun,  an  eagle,  and  the  papal  arms.  The 
Fisherman  of  Gallilee  probably  never  saw  so  mucli  finery  in  the  whole 
course  of  his  life,  as  his  puny  image  this  day  exhibited.  Certain  it  is, 
that  the  religion  of  his  Master  discountenances  such  mockery,  which 
is  better  suited  to  the  shrine  of  Isis,  Diana  of  Ephesus,  or  Juggernaut, 
than  to  a  Christian  temple.  The  toe  of  the  holy  idol  was  left  bare, 
and  so  great  was  the  press  of  both  sexes  to  rub  their  foreheads  against 
it,  and  to  give  it  a  kiss,  that  a  file  of  soldiers  formed  a  circle  round 
the  pedestal,  and  kept  back  the  crowd  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet.  I 
saw  a  female  attempt  to  force  the  lips  of  her  child  to  the  sacred 
member  : 

"  The  babe  clung  crying  to  his  nurse's  breast, 
Scar'd  at  the  dazzling  helm,  and  nodding  crest." 

But  the  bugle  sounds  and  the  PontiflT  approaches,  vying  with  St.  Peter 
in  the  splendour  of  his  costume,  borne  alonjj  the  aisles  in  his  gorgeous 
palanquin,  under  a  crimson  canopy,  and  fanned  by  the  tails  of  pea- 
cocks. A  bustle  spreads  through  the  crowd,  as  they  cower  to  the  pave- 
ment. The  Pope  ascends  a  temporary  stage,  erected  behind  the  high 
altar,  where  he  is  seated  amidst  the  circle  of  cardinals.  Mass  is  cele- 
brated, and  the  bugle  again  rings,  as  the  host  is  elevated.  Clouds  of 
incense  choke  the  air,  and  hang  in  wreaths  about  the  heads  of  Apostles 
and  the  mosaics  of  the  dome.  Choirs  of  Italian  voices  warble  pa3ans 
in  honour  of  the  beatified  saint,  instead  of  anthems  of  praise  to  the 
Most  High.  Such  is  a  faithful,  but  imperfect  sketch  of  the  exercises 
on  the  great  festival  of  Rome,  and  in  the  most  splendid  religious  tem- 
j)lc  in  Christendom.  T  leave  my  readers  to  make  their  own  re- 
flections. 


376        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

While  strolling  this  afternoon  through  a  narrow  street  at  the  base  of 
the  Capitoline  Hill,  I  called  at  a  bookseller's  stall  to  purchase  a  second- 
hand copy  of  Cicero's  Epistles,  which  was  among  the  shattered  vo- 
lumes at  the  door.  From  some  hints  incidentally  dropped  in  conclu- 
ding the  bargain,  it  was  ascertained  that  the  Roman  matron  and  her 
daughter  Adelaide  were  both  poetesses.  Without  much  persuasion, 
they  produced  and  read  to  me  specimens  of  their  verses,  which  were 
by  no  means  contemptible,  containing  frequent  allusions  to  Virgil  and 
Augus^tus,  MeccEnas  and  Horace.  The  names  and  offices  of  all  the 
Muses  were  recounted  with  as  much  particularity,  as  Homer's  enume- 
ration of  the  Greek  ships.  One  of  the  poems  celebrates  the  return  of 
an  ecclesiastical  dignitary  to  Rome. 

In  the  evening  JSignor  Trentanove  attain  did  us  the  favour  to  call 
and  accompany  us  to  another  palace  of  the  Princess  Gabrielh  in  the 
city,  to  witness  a  second  edition  of  the  illumination  of  St.  Peter's,  and 
the  fire-works  of  St.  Angelo.  But  as  a  distant  view  had  already  been 
obtained,  we  were  desirous  of  approaching  nearer  the  church  and  cas- 
tle, and  accordingly  went  to  the  piazza  in  front  of  the  former,  which 
was  thronged  with  carriages,  horses,  and  pedestrians.  The  use  of  a 
chair,  upon  the  open  pavement,  during  the  evening  was  obtained  for 
half  a  paul.  We  found  the  glorious  temple  lighted  up  in  the  same  style 
as  on  the  preceding  evening ;  and  at  9  o'clock,  at  the  sound  of  the 
bell,  the  electric  flash  was  again  cummimicated,  by  means  of  a  com- 
bustible train,  to  the  ten  thousand  lamps  held  in  reserve.  As  we  were 
within  a  hundred  yards  of  the  church,  the  brilhancy  was  much  more 
intense,  but  less  fanciful,  and  appeared  less  like  enchantment,  than 
when  seen  from  the  top  of  Janiculum.  Such  a  spectacle  will  bear 
repetition  once  ;  but  I  should  think  it  would  become  a  matter  of  indif- 
ference, by  recurring  without  variation  from  year  to  year.  Yet  the  Ita- 
hans  seemed  to  manifest  the  same  interest  and  enthusiasm  in  the  show, 
as  did  the  assemblage  of  strangers.  They  are  extravagantly  fond  of 
such  spectacles,  and  no  people  get  them  up  with  so  much  taste  and 
effect.  This  tact  comes  of  long  experience  and  constant  habit.  The 
whole  system  of  their  religion,  as  well  as  the  character  of  their 
national  amusements,  leads  to  pompous  and  splendid  exhibitions,  hand- 
ed down  from  the  festivals  and  triumphal  processions  of  the  old  Ro- 
mans. 

After  the  illumination  had  been  sufficiently  examined,  we  were 
borne  along  in  the  crowd  towards  the  Castle  of  St.  Angelo,  the  other 
great  object  of  attraction  for  the  evening.  I  found  an  eligible  position 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Tiber,  at  the  bend  below  the  bridge,  in  full 
view  of  the  tremendous  battery.     At  10  o'clock  the  signal  was  siveii, 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         377 

and  liie  volleys  again  burst  forth,  if  possible  with  more  grandeur  than 
at  the  first  exhibition.  By  way  of  introduction,  a  circle  of  fire  ran 
rapidly  round  the  whole  citadel,  which  appeared  like  an  enchanted 
castle,  illuminated  by  myriads  of  lights  of  the  richest  hues.  Then 
came  the  mimic  thunders  and  hghtnings,  second  only  to  those  of 
nature  herself.  The  cannon  of  the  fortress  were  discharged  at  the 
same  moment  with  the  most  splendid  pieces  of  the  fire-works. 
Showers  of  dazzling  light  were  thrown  to  immense  heights,  and 
beautifully  rellected  from  the  clouds  of  white  smoke  below.  The 
bronze  angel,  hovering  in  the  air  amidst  the  storm,  wreathed  with 
vapour,  and  reddened  i)y  the  glare,  looked  like  a  spirit  "■'  hot  from 
hell,"  tlirown  up  by  an  eruption  of  the  volcano.  1  have  elsewhere 
said,  that  the  Tiber  seems  almost  to  possess  some  of  the  attributes  of 
a  sentient  moral  being  ;  and  on  this  night  he  appeared  to  roll  onward 
in  silent  and  sullen  majesty,  as  if  contemning  the  unclassical  spectacle, 
which  brightened  his  waves.  All  the  piazzas,  bridges,  balconies,  and 
house-tops  in  the  vicinity  of  St,  Angelo  were  filled  with  people,  who 
alternately  became  visible  and  were  lost  to  the  eye,  in  the  successive 
tlashcs  and  intermissions.  Such  were  some  of  the  more  prominent 
circumstances  of  an  exhibition,  which  was  infinitely  the  grandest  and 
most  splendid  of  the  kind  I  have  ever  witnessed  or  ever  expect  to 
•witness. 

The  next  day  we  visited  tlie  Pontifical  Palace  at  Monte  CavaJlo. 
It  is  an  enormous  pile  of  buildings  standing  round  a  quadrangular 
court.  We  traversed  almost  acres  of  apartments,  finished  in  the 
Vrench  style,  and  expressly  fitted  up  by  the  Pope,  for  the  accommo- 
dation of  the  Emperor  of  Austria.  Both  the  architecture  and  furni- 
ture are  elegant ;  but  the  collection  of  statues  and  paintings  is  meagre. 
The  state-bed  for  the  Emperor  is  of  green,  and  that  for  the  Empress, 
of  white  silk.  Which  docs  his  Holiness  occupy  in  his  occasional 
visits  ?  White  is  his  passion  and  the  colour  of  his  robes  ;  yet  his  offi- 
cial obligations  compel  him  to  forswear  the  couches  of  females.  In 
tiie  chapel  is  the  Annunciation  by  Guido.  The  drapery  of  the  angel 
is  the  finest  point  in  the  picture.  Mary  has  one  of  the  artist's  sweet- 
est faces,  which  is  praise  enough.  Another  room  contains  portraits 
of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul,  which  have  found  many  admirers.  In  the 
billiard-room,  there  is  not  only  an  elegant  table  lor  that  game,  but  an 
extensive  apparatus  for  chess,  back-gammon,  draughts,  and  bagatelle. 
The  last,  I  presume,  is  the  favourite  play  with  the  Pope  and  the  Em- 
peror of  Austria. 

From  the  balcony  in  the  rear  of  the  palace,  overhanging  a  spacious 
and  magnificent  garden,  there  is  a  charming  view  of  Rome  and  its 
VOL.  n.  1*^ 


378  LETTERS  FR031  EUROPE. 

suburbs.  On  the  square  in  front,  one  of  the  most  copious  fountains 
in  the  city  plays  into  a  granitic  basin  of  enormous  dimensions,  at  the 
sid^s  of  which  stand  colossal  statues  of  Castor  and  Pollux,  accompa- 
nied by  their  two  horses,  from  which  the  twin  gods  seem  to  have 
dismounted  to  let  their  steeds  drink.  Behind  the  group  rises  an  Egyp- 
tian Obelisk  of  red  granite,  brought  from  the  mausoleum  of  Augustus, 
and  reared  by  Pius  VI.  These  ornaments  are  all  upon  a  grand  scale, 
and  produce  a  fine  effect.  The  statues  are  labelled  with  the  names  of 
Phidias  and  Praxiteles  ;  and  as  the  story  runs,  they  were  brought  from 
Athens,  by  tlie  way  of  Alexandria,  as  an  ornament  for  the  baths  of 
Constantine,  in  the  ruins  of  which  they  were  found. 

Our  excursion  was  extended  hence  to  the  garden  of  the  Colonna 
Palace,  which  is  in  execrable  taste,  filled  with  dry  fountains,  (a  phe- 
nomenon at  Rome,)  and  mean  statues.  We  climbed  terrace  after  ter- 
race, to  the  top  of  the  Quirinal  Hill,  crowned  by  a  solitary,  venerable 
pine,  near  which  rest  the  ruins  of  the  Temple  of  the  Sun.  A  few 
fragments  alone  remain.  They  are  of  enormous  size,  furnishing  evi- 
dence of  what  must  have  been  the  proportions  of  the  ancient  struc- 
ture. One  of  the  blocks  is  seventeen  feet  in  length,  ten  in  breadth, . 
and  six  in  height.  Parts  of  the  entablature  and  frieze,  of  white  mar- 
ble, enriched  with  exquisite  specimens  of  sculpture,  are  yet  visible, 
and  are  said  to  have  been  once  supported  by  massive  columns  seventy 
feet  in  height.  Such  an  edifice,  seated  upon  the  summit  of  the  Qui- 
rinal, must  have  equalled  or  surpassed  the  Vatican  of  the  present  day. 

We  called  at  the  church  of  St.  Andrew  in  Valle,  which  stands  on 
the  site  of  Pompey's  Forum,  to  look  at  a  famous  fresco  painted  by 
Domenichino  ;  and  thence  extended  our  walk  to  the  Palazzo  Massimi, 
for  the  purpose  of  examining  the  statue  of  a  Discobolus,  which  is  very 
celebrated.  It  claims  a  Grecian  origin,  and  in  the  character  of  the  work, 
there  is  nothing  to  invalidate  the  authenticity  of  the  tradition.  An 
inscription  on  the  pedestal  states,  that  it  was  found  in  the  year  1783. 
We  also  made  a  call  at  the  Braschi  Palace,  to  see  a  stair-way  which 
is  an  object  of  general  admiration.  It  appeared  to  me  very  far  infe- 
rior in  richness  and  beauty  to  that  in  the  palace  at  Caserta.  There 
are  five  or  six  flights  of  marble  steps,  ornamented  with  pillars  of  ori- 
ental granite.  The  architecture  is  of  the  composite  order,  which  to 
me  is  less  interesting  than  any  other. 

The  next  day,  we  made  an  effort  to  visit  some  other  objects  of 
attraction  ;  but  it  began  to  be  extremely  difficult  to  gain  admission. 
The  weather  was  intensely  hot;  and  from  10  or  11  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  till  5  or  6  in  the  afternoon,  the  streets  of  Rome  were  almost 
as  solitary  as  those  of  Pompeii.     No  one  was  seen  abroad,  except  on 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        379 

the  most  urgent  business.  After  dinner,  even  the  shops  were  shut, 
while  their  proprietors  were  takinij  a  siesta.  We  called  perhaps  at  a 
liundred  places,  during  our  visit,  and  after  knocking  half  an  liour, 
received  for  answer  of  the  servant  at  the  door — "  si  dormV — they  are 
aslee[).  Such  a  reply  was  often  provoking,  after  travelling  a  mile  or 
two,  with  the  alternative  of  missing  the  object,  or  repeating  the  visit. 

In  regard  to  the  unhealthiness  of  Rome  in  the  summer  months,  1 
liave  reason  to  believe  there  has  been  a  great  deal  of  exaggeration, 
and  that  groundless  alarm  has  been  excited.  Our  friends  in  France 
advi.sed  us,  by  no  means  to  remain  in  the  pestilential  city  after  the  last 
of  May  or  the  first  of  June.  Yet  we  did  remain  more  than  a  month  be- 
yond this  time,  and  rode  all  over  the  Canipagna,  without  meeting  that 
Spirit  of  the  Waste,  the  Mai' aria.  At  certain  seasons,  bihous  fevers 
and  other  diseases  incident  to  warm  climates  doubtless  prevail,  the 
ravages  of  which  among  the  lower  classes  are  augmented  by  poverty, 
lilth,  and  the  want  of  medical  attendance.  But  by  using  proper  pre- 
rautions,  even  strangers  might  in  my  opinion  remain  at  Rome  during 
the  sickly  months,  with  as  much  safety  as  in  any  other  large  city. 
Such  is  our  experience,  supported  by  information  received  from  others. 

On  the  morning  of  the  2d  of  July,  we  visited  the  church  and  convent 
of  San  Silvestro  in  Capite,  to  see  a  noble  lady  take  the  veil.  Accord- 
ing to  the  bills  of  the  day,  one  of  which  is  now  before  me,  she  was 
no  less  a  personage  than  the  "^  nobil  donzella  Adelaide  de'  Conti 
Amadei,"  who  henceforth  is  to  be  known  under  the  simple  name  of 
Sister  Maria  Rosa.  We  found  the  chapel  very  much  crowded,  espe- 
cially with  females,  some  of  whom  were  affected  even  to  tears  by  the 
ceremonies.  The  fair  devotee  was  seen  through  the  grates  of  the 
convent  window,  above  the  high  altar,  at  which  a  cardinal  and  his 
sacerdotal  train  were  performing  the  service.  A  full  orchestra  of  vocal 
and  instrumental  music  assisted  in  the  solemn  exercises,  and  chanted 
a  hymn  of  praise,  while  the  ceremony  of  assuming  the  veil  was  going 
on  at  the  window.  Two  bride-maids,  arrayed  in  the  richest  dresses, 
with  white  plumes  dancing  in  their  fashionable  hats,  and  also  a  little 
girl  for  a  servant,  were  in  attendance  on  the  novice.  She  was  divested 
of  her  worldly  robes,  clothed  in  the  garments  of  the  order,  and  a 
crown  placed  upon  her  head. 

The  sacred  rite  is  considered  as  a  marriage  covenant,  by  which  the 
candidate  is  wedded  to  the  Saviour  as  her  divine  spouse  ;  and  hence 
the  propriety  of  the  bride-maids.  There  was  something  extremely 
melancholy  as  well  as  interesting  in  this  act  of  self-devotion, 
in  giving  up  the  world  with  all  its  cares  and  pleasures,  and  in  retiring 
to  perpetual  solitude.     Maria  Rosa,  qualified  by  her  accomplishments 


mo  LETTERS  FROxM  EUROPE. 

for  a  brighter  and  happier  sphere,  has  left  a  mother  and  sister  behimi. 
AvKo  were  the  witnesses  of  what  may  be  termed  her  burial  more  pro- 
perh'  than  her  nuptials.  A  priest  gave  me  a  large  hand-bill,  contain- 
ing an  ode,  (oddly  enough  styled  "  anacreontica,")  and  two  sonnets, 
which  were  sung  on  this  occasion,  "  in  applauso  della  nobil  donzella." 
The  inflated  verses  are  surcharged  with  the  fragrance  of  the  Rose,  in 
allusion  to  the  assumed  name  of  the  devotee. 

In  the  evening  we  went  to  the  Mausoleum  of  Augustus,  expecting 
to  witness  the  peculiar  fete  of  a  bull-baiting,  a  spectacle  which  none 
of  our  party  had  ever  attended.  But  the  show  turned  out  to  be  merely 
a  paltry  display  of  fire-works,  by  the  smoke  of  which,  (prevented  from 
escaping  by  an  awning  at  top,)  the  audience  were  nearly  suffocated. 
It  was  so  dense,  that  a  light  could  not  be  seen  at  the  distance  of  ton 
feet.     A  retreat  v.as  effected  as  soon  as  possible. 

I  have  said  nothing  of  the  theatres  at  Rome  ;  for  the  truth  is,  they  at- 
tract little  attention,  especially  at  the  season  of  our  visit.  Religious 
ceremonies  here  seem  to  occupy  the  place  of  dramatic  represen- 
tations in  other  cities.  We  attended  but  one  night.  The  theatre 
is  large  and  convenient,  with  four  tiers  of  boxes,  finished  and  furnish- 
ed in  the  usual  Italian  style.  Handsome  frescos  adorn  the  ceiling. 
The  audience  appeared  to  be  highly  respectable,  comprising  much 
beauty,  taste,  and  fashion.  A  greater  degree  of  attention  and  order 
prevailed,  than  at  the  theatres  in  other  Italian  cities.  An  opera  and 
a  comedy  were  performed.  The  dramatic  corps  seemed  to  possess  a 
good  deal  of  talent.  Three  of  them  were  favourites,  wiiom  the  ap- 
plauses of  the  audience  called  upon  the  stage,  to  show  themselves  and 
make  their  bows.  To  me  the  Itaban  play-house  is  a  dull  place  ;  and 
after  the  fatigues  of  the  day,  I  have  frequently  been  sung  to  sleep  by 
an  opera. 

Next  day,  we  visited  the  chiesa  di  Santa  Maria  Sopra  Minerva,  so 
called  because  the  church  stands  upon  the  site  of  a  Roman  temple  in 
honour  of  the  goddess  of  wisdom.  Behind  the  high  altar  are  the  tombs 
of  two  of  the  Popes,  Leo  X.  and  Clen)ent  VII.  But  the  object  of 
our  visit  was  the  statue  of  the  Saviour,  by  Michael  Angelo.  By  many 
it  is  accounted  his  greatest  work.  It  is  indeed  a  noble  effort,  though 
in  my  opinion  unworthy  of  such  extravagant  praise.  One  foot  wears 
a  brazen  sock,  to  protect  the  marble  from  the  kisses  of  the  multitude  ; 
and  the  waist  is  also  girt  with  drapery  of  the  same  material.  Both  of 
these  fantastic  additions  detract  much  from  the  dignity  of  the  statue. 

Our  excursion  was  continued  thence  to  the  Academia  di  San  Luca, 
connected  with  a  church  of  the  same  name,  near  the  Roman  Forum. 
The  Academy  contains  a  picture  originally  by  Raphael,  which  repre- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         US  I 

sents  St.  Luke,  the  Evangelist,  painting  the  portraits  of  the  Saviour 
and  his  mother,  while  the  prince  of  Italian  artists  is  standing  by  as  a 
spectator.  What  an  idea  is  this  !  The  painters  and  sculptors  of  Italy 
seem  to  have  sported  with  sacred  subjects.  Whoever  heard  that  the 
Evangelist  was  skilled  in  the  use  of  the  pencil  as  well  as  the  pen  ?  He 
was  a  physician  by  profession,  and  a  man  of  learning ;  but  I  am  ac- 
quainted with  no  tradition,  which  makes  him  a  portrait-painter. 

But  a  truce  to  criticism  and  censure  ;  for  here  is  the  skull  of  the 
great  Raphael  himself,  and  the  vacant  sockets  of  his  eyes  stare  me  in 
tlic  face.  It  is  by  far  the  most  interesting  article  in  the  Academy,  and 
was  examined  with  minute  attention.  A  craniologist  might  doubtless 
be  able  to  discover  the  particular  seat  of  that  genius,  which  has  delight- 
ed the  worhl.  But  I  am  not  sulliciently  versed  in  phrenology  to  trace 
bumps,  and  designate  the  throne  of  intellect.  The  skull  is  large,  and 
the  occiput  as  well  as  the  frontal  bone  is  unusually  protuberant.  There 
seems  to  have  been  room  enough  for  a  mind,  which  was  exhaustless  in 
fertility,  and  unrivalled  in  the  brilliancy  of  its  conceptions.  Tlie 
relic  bears  the  inscription,  which  I  have  copied  from  his  tomb  in  the 
Pantheon.  This  Studio  of  young  artists  contains  many  excellent  casts, 
some  good  statues,  and  numerous  small  pictures,  with  all  the  appurte- 
nances for  prosecuting  professional  pursuits.  The  papal  government 
deserves  great  credit,  for  the  facilities  it  affords  to  students  in  the  arts 
from  all  countries. 

On  the  4th  of  July,  my  friend  and  myself  celebrated  the  anniversary 
of  American  Independence,  on  the  Palatine  Hill,  at  once  the  cradle 
and  the  grave  of  Roman  Liberty.  Arrangements  were  made  for  a 
formal  dinner,  at  which  the  little  circle  of  our  countrymen  in  the  city, 
amounting  to  eight  or  ten,  were,  all  to  be  present.  But  the  American 
Consul  dissuaded  us  from  the  plan,  upon  the  ground  that  it  might  give 
offence,  and  occasion  an  interference  of  the  government.  A  party  of 
foreigners,  (l^^nglishmen  I  believe,)  who  had  spread  their  table  in  the 
Coliseum,  received  a  visit  from  the  Police,  and  were  driven  from  the 
convivial  board,  before  they  had  time  to  sing  "  God  save  the  King." 
Believing  tiiat  his  Holiness  would  not  descend  to  watch  the  movements 
of  a  mere  brace  of  Republicans,  we  ordered  a  lunch  to  be  taken  to 
the  Palatine  at  1  o'clock,  and  proceeded  thither  ourselves  by  a  kind  of 
stealth,  as  the  early  christians  went  to  their  prayers.  Tully  was  made 
orator  of  the  day  ;  Addison's  Cato  furnished  a  commentary  on  repub- 
lican liberty  ;  and  Horace  contriljuted  several  odes,  suited  to  the  cele- 
bration. At  the  conclusion  of  the  exercises,  our  simple  repast  was 
served  up  in  the  shade  of  a  copse  of  ilex,  on  the  fragment  of  a  column 
from  the  temple  of  Apollo.     Tuminsr  our  faces  homeward,  we  drank 


'S82  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

the  health  of  our  friends  and  the  prosperity  of  our  country,  in  wine 
which  grew  upon  the  Palatine  Mount,  amidst  the  ruins  of  ancient 
fanes  and  the  palaces  of  tlie  Caesars. 

In  the  midst  of  our  festivities,  the  Custode  of  the  Farnese  Gardens 
came  up,  to  see  what  was  going  forward  in  his  dominions.  He  entered 
freely  into  conversation,  and  told  us  the  story  of  his  life,  which  is  some- 
what tinged  with  romance.  He  is  a  Roman  by  birth,  and  was  seven 
vears  in  the  city  college,  where  he  studied  divinity,  but  soon  left  the 
cJiurch  for  the  sake  of  a  pretty  Venetian  girl,  with  whom  he  lell  in 
love,  and  to  whom  he  is  now  wedded.  Approaching  in  his  shirt- 
sleeves, he  took  up  Horace  and  read  several  passages  with  much  em- 
phasis and  elegance.  He  also  repeated  a  considerable  part  of  one  of 
the  orations  of  Cicero.  In  a  word,  we  found  him  an  accomplished 
scholar,  familiar  with  the  classics,  and  speaking  the  French  language 
as  well  as  his  own  with  fluency. 

On  our  way  homeward,  and  in  traversing  the  city  to  make  a  parting 
call  upon  our  friends,  we  took  a  last  look,  and  bade  farewell  forever  to 
the  Forum,  to  the  Coliseum,  to  Triumphal  Arches,  and  other  objects, 
whicli  had  become  familiar  acquaintances.  It  was  absolutely  painful 
to  bid  adieu  to  scenes,  which  we  had  so  often  visited,  and  which  had 
afforded  us  so  much  delight.  Rome  grows  daily  upon  the  affections 
of  the  traveller,  and  new  attachments  are  constantly  multiplying,  amidst 
its  ancient  monuments  and  its  works  of  art. 

At  6  o'clock  we  went  to  dine  with  the  American  Consul,  who  is  a 
Roman  by  birth  and  education,  a  lawyer  of  great  respectabihty,  and  a 
modest,  unassuming,  kind-hearted  man.  We  received  at  his  hands 
every  mark  of  civility  and  attention,  during  our  residence  in  the  city. 
His  table  on  this  occasion  was  surrounded  by  a  circle  of  our  country- 
men, and  bountifully  loaded  with  dainties,  as  well  as  with  the  choicest 
wines  of  Italy.  He  proposed  the  health  of  the  President  of  the  Uni- 
ted States  ;  and  in  our  last  glass  of  Falernian,  we  drank  perpetual 
friendship  between  tRe  countries  of  Cincinnatus  and  Washington. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        383 

LETTER  LXXIX. 

OEPARTURK  FKOM  ROME FALLS  OF  THE  VELINO RETURN  TO  FLORF.XCE 

CLOIATE MANNERS     OF    THE      PEOPLE — PUBLIC    AMUSEMENTS 

CHARACTER  OF  THE  GOVERNMENT. 

July,  1826. 

On  the  morning  of  the  6th,  wc  left  Rome  for  Florence,  by  the  way  of 
Tcrni.  In  making  our  exit  tlirough  the  Porta  del  Popolo  for  the  last. 
time,  and  in  crossing  the  Campagna  di  Roma,  many  a  farewell  look 
was  cast  behind.  There  is  even  amidst  the  ruins  of  the  imperial  city, 
and  notwithstanding  some  slight  deductions  to  be  made  from  tlie  plea, 
sures  of  the  traveller,  an  interest  not  to  bo  found  in  any  other  place. 
Its  associations  are  endless,  and  the  mind  is  never  tired  of  examining 
the  infmite  variety  of  objects  it  presents.  My  last  day  in  Rome  was 
as  happy  as  the  first,  except  from  the  thought  that  I  should  see  it  no 
more.  On  the  heights  of  Baccano,  we  turned  and  gazed  upon  the 
dome  of  St.  Peter's  burnished  with  the  morning  sun,  upon  the  out- 
sttetched  city,  and  the  blue  summits  of  the  Alban  Mount,  till  the  last 
glimpse  vanished  behind  the  intervening  hills. 

The  day  was  intensely  hot  ;  the  inhabitants  of  the  villages  along  the 
road  had  all  retired  to  their  houses  ;  and  the  solitary  landscape  drooped 
under  a  fervid  sky.  At  evening  we  reached  Terni,  and  immediately 
set  out  for  the  Falls  of  the  Velino,  embosomed  among  the  hills,  at  the 
distance  of  five  miles.  The  road  leads  up  the  vale  of  the  Nera,  be- 
tween Monte  St.  Angelo,  on  the  right,  and  Monte  di  Valle,  on  the 
left.  It  is  a  romantic,  retired,  and  peaceful  glen,  bordered  by  high 
ridges  of  rocks,  and  slopes  covered  with  olives.  The  banks  of  the 
headlong  stream  are  shaded  with  trees  of  a  rich  fohage,  clasped  by  the 
ivy  and  vine. 

Climbing  a  zig-zag  path,  winding  on  terraces  under.the  clifls,  hun- 
dreds of  feet  above  the  Nera,  we  reached  the  cataract  about  sunset,  and 
had  a  charming  view  from  three  or  four  different  stations,  whence  the 
whole  descent  of  the  waters,  in  several  perpendicular  pitches,  is  visi- 
ble. The  Velino  is  the  artificial  outlet  or  emissary  of  a  lake,  but  of 
considerable  size,  rapid,  and  turbulent,  hurrying  beneath  an  arch  of  ver- 
dure, before  it  leaps  a  precipice  of  three  hundred  feet.  It  makes  little 
pause,  till  its  course  down  the  rocks  is  completed,  and  its  agitated  cur- 
rent mingles  with  the  more  quiet  Nera.  These  falls  are,  on  the  whole, 
the  finest  we  have  seen  in  Europe,  except  perhaps  those  of  the  Clyde. 
There  must  necessarily  be  a  good  deal  of  bustle,  in  an  aggregate  do- 


3S4  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

scent  of  six  or  seven  Imndred  ft-et.  The  quantity  of  water  is  respect- 
able, though  scarcely  suflicient  to  present  an  image  of  grandeur  ;  and 
it  is  impossible  to  get  rid  of  the  idea,  that  the  Velino  is  an  artificial^ 
channel,  scooped  out  by  the  Romans,  and  not  opened  by  the  hand  of 
nature  herself.  Tourists  have  talked  of  clouds,  rainbows,  and  thun- 
ders. Wc  were  too  late  to  see  an  iris  upon  the  spray  ;  and  the  sound 
of  the  cataract  did  not  meet  us  until  within  a  few  rods  of  the  preci- 
pice. It  is  needless  to  add,  that  these  fails,  on  which  an  Italian  has 
written  a  book,  dedicated  "  alia  nobile  Signora  Contessa  Silvia  An- 
taldi  Graziani,'  will  bear  no  comparison  with  Niagara.  Byron  has^ 
exaggerated  the  scene  beyond  all  bounds,  and  spoiled  the  pleasure  of 
contemplating  the  reality,  to  those  who  have  read  his  description.  He 
was  pardonable,  because  this  cascade  was  the  grandest  object  of  the 
kind  he  had  probably  ever  witnessed.  His  picture  is  a  much  better 
likeness  of  Niagara  than  of  the  Velino.  We  remained  here  till  dark. 
It  was  a  bright  evening,  and  the  twilight  was  exquisitely  soft.  The 
scenery  is  rich  and  beautiful,  consisting  of  calcareous  hills,  rising  in 
pointed  crags  and  overhanging  a  woody  vale,  which  Cicero  m  one  of 
his  visits  compared  to  that  of  Tempe. 

We  took  breakfast  the  next  morning  by  candle-light,  and  commen- 
ced our  journey  over  Monte  Somma  at  4  o'clock.  The  vale  of  tiie 
Clitumnus  was  now  waving  with  yellow  harvests,  and  its  waters  were 
as  brit^ht  as  ever.  In  retracing  a  route  which  had  once  been  traversed, 
I  read  the  Georgics  of  Virgil,  with  practical  illustrations  before  me. 
The  peasantry  were  busy  in  reaping  their  fields.  Females  use  the 
sickle  with  as  much  dexterity  as  the  men.  They  thrash  their  grain  on 
open  areas,  such  as  are  described  by  the  rural  poet  of  the  Augustan 
ao-e.  Indeed  most  of  his  imagery  may  be  traced  in  Italian  scenery 
and  the  modes  of  cultivation. 

Near  Perugia  we  waved  a  farewell  to  the  Tiber,  and  bade  him  bear 
our  respects  to  Rome.  Our  ride  along  the  shores  of  Thrasyinenus  at 
sunset  was  enchanting.  Night  overtook  us  at  the  little  village  of  Ca- 
mucia,  and  compelled  us  to  take  lodgings  at  a  small  tavern,  instead  of 
reaching  Arezzo.  The  people  treated  us  kindly,  and  gave  us  a  supper 
of  fish  from  the  lake.  Early  next  morning,  we  pursued  our  journey 
towards  Florence,  which  was  reached  on  the  same  evening,  after  a 
chapter  of  accidents,  none  of  which  were  of  a  very  serious  nature. 
The  coach-wheel  had  run  off  half  a  dozen  times  since  leaving  Rome, 
and  one  of  the  horses  had  twice  fallen,  requiring  the  aid  of  the  pea- 
santry to  help  him  up.  One  of  the  disasters  befel  us  in  tlie  midst  of  a 
severe  thunder-storm,  to  the  pelting  of  which  we  were  exposed  during 
a  walk  of  several  miles. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         385 

At  Florence  we  remained  some  weeks,  as  well  to  avoid  the  oppres- 
sive heat  of  summer,  as  for  the  sake  of  seeing  something  more  of  Tus- 
cany, than  a  short  visit  had  permitted.  Through  the  kind  offices  of  the 
American  Consul,  who  did  every  tiling  to  render  our  stay  in  his  native 
city  both  useful  and  agreeable,  private  lodgings  were  obtained  at  mo- 
derate prices,  in  a  healthy  and  ehgible  situation.  My  window  almost 
overhung  the  Arno,  commanding  a  full  view  of  its  splendid  quays  and 
bridges,  of  the  town,  and  the  distant  hills.  The  society  of  a  pleasant 
family,  and  a  circle  of  estimable  friends,  contributed  largely  to  the 
pleasures,  which  a  temporary  residence  in  the  Tuscan  capital  afforded. 
Of  the  little  party  at  our  table,  was  an  acquaintance  from  New-York, 
whose  social  \irtues  always  rendered  him  a  welcome  guest.  An  Eng- 
lish tourist,  who  has  acquired  great  celebrity,  in  his  own  country,  by  bis 
philosophical  writings  and  public  lectures,  was  another  inmate  of  the 
same  roof.  In  a  dissertation  on  the  Fine  Arts  of  Italy,  which  he  read 
to  me,  and  which  will  probably  be  hereafter  published,  he  has  taken  oc- 
casion to  pay  a  high  compliment  to  our  own  Washington,  whom  he 
considers  the  most  illustrious  subject  for  the  pencil  and  chisel,  that 
ever  existed  in  any  country.  We  also  had  a  whole  family  among  our 
boarders.  Two  of  the  ladies  gave  us  a  concert  daily  on  the  harp  and 
piano. 

Our  external  resources  were  not  less  abundant.  The  hospitable 
doors  of  the  Consul  were  always  open  to  us,  as  they  are  to  all  our 
countrymen.  His  residence  is  fitted  up  with  much  taste,  embellished 
with  the  arts  of  his  native  city,  intermingled  with  the  portraits  of  dis- 
tinguished Americans.  He  introduced  us  to  another  branch  of  the 
Bonaparte  family,  consisting  of  a  Countess,  her  daughter,  and  the  in- 
tended of  the  latter,  who  were  on  a  flnng  visit  to  this  place.  We 
found  them  quite  repubhcan  in  their  attachments,  affable,  and  agreeable 
in  their  manners.  I  was  also  made  acquainted  with  a  professor  in  the 
University  of  Pisa,  now  a  resident  of  Florence.  He  is  an  eminent 
scholar,  a  man  of  great  industry  and  research,  who  imparted  to  me 
many  valuable  ideas  on  the  past  history  and  present  condition  of  his 
country.  A  gentleman,  who  had  once  been  in  the  United  States,  in- 
troduced himself  and  took  me  to  his  father's,  who  is  one  of  the  first 
merchants  in  the  city.  He  was  perfectly  acquainted  with  Florence, 
and  poUtely  afforded  me  many  facilities  in  examining  its  localities.  In 
a  word,  we  experienced  no  want  of  society  either  among  the  Italians 
or  our  own  countrymen  ;  and  all  the  leisure  moments  that  could  be 
spared  fi"om  other  pursuits,  were  agreeably  occupied.  Of  the  Ameri- 
cans at  Florence,  is  an  active,  inteUigent  old  man,  who  is  now  at  the 
age  of  80.  He  has  been  sixty  years  in  Europe,  and  forty  in  the  capi- 
vox.  IT.  49 


3S6         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

lal  of  Tuscany.  He  is  the  proprietor  of  a  beautiful  villa,  commanding 
a  wide  prospect  into  the  vale  of  the  Arno,  and  leads  a  bachelor's  life, 
on  an  income  of  three  thousand  dollars  per  annum.  Such  is  his  re- 
gularity in  taking  a  particular  seat  at  the  door  of  a  coffee-house  in  the 
evening,  that  the  Consul  said  to  us  one  night,  he  would  take  us  to  our 
venerable  countryman.  He  walked  up  to  the  place,  and  although  it 
was  too  dark  to  distinguish  persons,  he  ventured  to  call  the  veteran  by 
name,  who  to  our  no  small  amusement  promptly  answered,  and  enter- 
ed freely  into  conversation. 

A  day  or  two  after  our  arrival,  there  was  a  great  parade  at  the  Cas- 
cine.  An  aeronaut  had  given  public  notice,  that  at  5  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon  he  would  ascend  in  a  balloon  from  the  bank  of  the  Arno. 
The  whole  city  assembled  to  witness  the  spectacle.  All  the  bridges, 
heights,  and  house-tops  were  thronged  with  Florentine  beauty.  The 
Grand  Duke  was  the  patron  of  the  show,  and  promised  the  adventurer 
a  premium  of  ^500,  if  he  should  descend  on  any  part  of  his  grounds. 
His  Highness  with  his  family  and  suite  appeared  among  the  multitude 
on  this  occasion.  A  sumptuous  pavilion  hung  with  crimson,  had  been 
purposely  fitted  up  for  his  accommodation.  The  nobility  were  all  out 
with  their  splendid  equipages,  reviving  an  image  of  the  Corso  at  Rome. 
We  witnessed  a  fine  exhibition  of  style,  both  high  and  low.  Tlie 
gentry  sat  in  their  carriages,  and  the  pedestrians  stood  upon  their  feet 
till  dark,  waiting  with  breathless  anxiety,  and  expecting  every  moment 
to  see  the  aerial  navigator  mount  to  the  skies.  He  at  length  came 
forward  with  an  apology,  stating  that  his  balloon  could  not  be  inflated. 
In  a  few  days  the  notice  was  repeated,  and  the  congregated  city  ex- 
perienced another  disappointment.  The  Grand  Duke  was  so  enraged 
at  a  second  failure,  after  sitting  the  whole  afternoon  in  his  pavilion, 
that  he  directed  two  of  the  chemists  to  be  imprisoned,  and  a  new  set 
to  be  introduced  to  the  blow-pipes  and  crucibles.  Although  opera- 
tions were  continued  daily,  the  show  had  not  taken  place  when  I  left 
town. 

We  found  the  general  aspect  of  Florence  much  less  agreeable  in 
mid-summer,  than  it  was  at  our  first  visit  in  April.  Excellent  as  its 
pavements  are,  and  numerous  and  stately  as  are  its  palaces,  it  cannot 
be  called  a  neat  or  cleanly  city.  Nuisances  of  all  kinds  are  permitted 
to  encumber  and  deform  the  streets,  excepting  those  only  through 
which  the  Grand  Duke  drives  in  his  coach  and  six.  Its  police  is  much 
inferior  to  that  of  Rome.  In  the  latter,  particular  places  are  set  apart 
and  labelled  with  "  immondezza,"  where  filth  may  be  thrown.  Slaugh- 
ter-houses are  also,  as  in  Paris,  confined  to  remote  districts,  and  blood 
is  not  allowed  to  flow  in  the  gutters.     But  in  the  capital  of  Tuscany, 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        387 

all  places  are  common  for  every  species  of  nuisance.  Animals  are 
butchered  upon  promenades,  and  meat  shops  are  strung  along  tiie 
most  fashionable  streets,  emitting  an  odour  sufficient  to  deprive  one 
of  an  appetite  for  dinner.  The  confined  and  disagreeable  air,  arising 
from  such  an  accumulation  of  filth,  drives  the  people  from  their  houses 
to  the  public  squares  and  the  bridges  of  the  Arno,  in  the  evening,  where 
they  remain  till  midnight.  Seats  extend  on  both  sides  of  the  Pontc 
Santa  Trinita  from  end  to  end,  which  at  night  are  occupied  by  ladies, 
who  sit  motionless  for  iiours,  to  catch  a  breeze  from  the  river.  When 
the  moon  is  up  and  bright,  so  many  white  robes,  and  such  a  gallery  ol" 
Florentine  faces,  form  a  novel  and  brilliant  spectacle. 

Another  place  of  refuge  from  the  heat  of  the  city  and  the  confine- 
ment of  dwelling-houses,  is  the  public  square  in  front  of  the  Cathe- 
dral. There  is  here  a  celebrated  coffee-house,  called  by  way  of  em- 
phasis the  Bottegonc,  where  half  of  Florence,  from  tlie  nobility  down- 
ward, or  more  properly  upward,  may  be  seen  collected  every  evening,  to 
eat  ice-creams.  Not  only  are  all  the  saloons  filled,  but  crowds  are 
seated  in  chairs  on  the  pavement  at  the  door  ;  while  others  sit  in  their 
coaches,  sending  in  their  servants  for  refreshments.  At  a  neigh- 
bouring coffee-house  they  call  for  orgeat.  The  proprietor  informed 
me,  that  he  has  often  sold  twenty  barrels  in  a  day. 

From  the  Cathedral  a  street  leads  to  the  square  of  the  Grand  Duke, 
which  at  particular  hours  is  so  thronged,  that  a  passage  can  scarcely 
be  effected.  On  Sunday,  from  12  till  2  o'clock, 'the  Florentine  ladies 
of  the  higher  classes  make  it  an  invariable  rule  to  resort  thither,  and 
appear  on  'Change  in  full  dresses,  with  as  much  regularity  as  mer- 
chants. They  walk  back  and  forth  for  the  distance  of  a  hundred  rods, 
to  gaze  and  be  gazed  at.  The  custom  is  as  ridiculous  as  it  is  novel  ; 
and  after  meeting  the  same  faces,  in  a  iew  turns,  the  stranger  begins 
to  feel  ashamed  of  such  folly,  and  bolts  the  course. 

What  with  these  amusements,  with  the  theatres,  gardens/,  and 
religious  festivals,  the  inhabitants  of  Florence  are  seldom  to  be 
seen  at  their  houses,  night  or  day.  If  you  call  in  the  evening, 
they  are  out ;  and  in  the  day-time,  you  receive  the  same  answer 
as  at  Rome—"  si  dormi."  We  sent  thrice  to  a  minister,  to  have  our 
passports  regulated,  and  the  messenger  each  time  found  him  asleep, 
forgetful  of  his  official  duties.  Disturbed  by  a  fourth  call,  he  rubbed 
open  his  eyes  long  enough  to  return  for  answer,  that  his  signature  was 
not  necessary,  and  then  turned  over  to  finish  his  siesta.  "  They  are 
asleep"  is  a  motto,  which  may  be  applied  to  the  Itahans,  not  only 
physically  but  morally — in  politics,  science,  literature,  and  the  arts. 
Thoy  are  living  almost  entirely  upon  the  reputation,  which  the  great 


388        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

men  of  other  ages  have  acquired  for  them  ;   lost  in  voluptuous  ease, 
unmindful  of  the  glory  of  their  ancestors,  and  reckless  of  their  national 

\    degradation. 

^  The  governments  set  the  example  themselves,  and  encourage  this 
state  of  repose  and  torpidity.  It  is  a  strong  stroke  of  policy  with  the 
Holy  Alliance,  as  it  has  been  with  all  tyrants  from  Caesar  downward, 
to  administer  an  opiate  to  their  subjects,  in  the  gilded  shape  of  spec- 
tacles, splendid  shows,  unmanly  amusements,  and  enervating  pleasures. 
The  emperor  of  Austria  has  openly  announced,  that  he  wishes  no 
schools,  no  colleges,  no  literature,  no  philosophy,  in  his  dominions  ; 
and  it  is  one  of  the  fundamental  maxims  of  the  Tuscan  government, 
"  to  let  the  world  go  of  itself."  The  Athens  of  Italy  is  but  a  shadow 
of  its  former  greatness  and  glory.  Not  only  is  the  age  of  the  Republic 
gone  ;  but  the  traces  of  the  liberal  policy  of  Leopold,  of  a  still  later 
period,  have  vanished,  leaving  only  stupor  and  imbecility  behind — a 
degraded  nobility  and  an  enslaved  people.  Public  institutions  lan- 
guish ;  offices  of  trust  are  made  sinecures  for  favourites  ;  the  expendi- 
tures of  the  stale  are  increased  fourfold  ;  ecclesiastics  are  multiplied 
without  number  ;  education  is  neglected  ;  learning  and  the  arts  are  on 
the  decline.  As  an  Italian  expressed  it  to  me,  '■^  palaces  are  stripped 
of  their  pictures  and  statues,  to  buy  chickens  and  charcoal."  Yet  the 
Tuscan  government  is  perhaps  justly  accounted  the  most  liberal,  and 
the  Tuscan  state  the  happiest  in  Italy. 

I  have  described  some  of  the  pursuits  and  amusements,  of  which 
the  Grand  Duke  declared  himself  the  patron,  and  which  occupied  his 
attention  day  after  day.  Another  pageant  will  still  more  forcibly  illus- 
trate the  character  of  the  sovereign  and  the  nature  of  his  cares.  It 
was  proclaimed,  that  on  the  afternoon  of  the  30th  there  would  be  a 
great  horse-race  of  a  peculiar  character.  We  followed  the  multitude 
to  see  the  show.  The  scene  was  laid  in  Florence,  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Arno.  A  course  had  been  prepared  at  a  great  expense,  by 
strewing  with  sand  or  macadamizing  a  line  of  streets,  leading  from  the 
Cascine  to  the  Roman  gate.  For  the  whole  of  this  distance,  terraces, 
balconies,  windows,  and  side-walks  were  thronged  with  people,  while 
the  middle  of  the  street,  till  the  race  commenced,  presented  an  unbro- 
ken chain  of  carriages,  filled  with  the  court  of  Tuscany,  foreign  minis- 
ters, public  functionaries  of  all  descriptions,  the  nobility  and  gentry  in 
their  richest  dresses,  with  chasseurs  and  footmen  without  number. 
The  fronts  of  the  houses  were  hung  with  banners  of  crimson  and  gold. 
In  many  places  along  the  way,  temporary  galleries,  like  the  benches 
of  an  amphitheatre,  were  erected,  and  tickets  of  admission  regalarly 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  389 

sold,  as  at  the  doors  of  a  play-house.     These  scats  were  all  full  at  an 
early  hour. 

The  Grand  Duke  and  his  fannly  appeared  among  the  multitude,  in 
a  chariot  drawn  by  six  proud  steeds,  richly  caparisoned  witli  t^Iittering 
harnesses  and  gorgeous  ornaments,  vying  with  the  liveries  of  his  retinue. 
A  pavilion  had  been  purposely  prepared  for  him  at  the  corner  of  two 
of  the  streets,  in  a  conspicuous  situation,  near  the  starting-post.  Here 
he  was  seen  in  the  midst  of  his  courtiers,  canopied  by  crimson  and 
purple.  Crowds  pressed  as  near  as  they  could,  to  catch  a  glimpse  of 
the  face,  and  bask  in  the  smile  of  the  august  sovereign.  I  heard  a 
female,  next  to  me  in  one  of  the  amphitheatres,  say  to  her  neighbour 
— "  See !  the  Grand  Duchess  is  laughing."  Round  the  pavilion  a 
regiment  of  soldiers  was  stationed,  accompanied  by  a  fine  military 
band,  who  played  some  of  the  national  airs,  which  used  to  animate 
the  old  republicans  on  to  battle. 

At  length  tiie  signal  was  given,  and  the  four  racc-liorses  were  brought 
upon  the  course,  without  riders,  saddle  or  bridle.  They  were  girt 
with  belts,  bearing  the  numbers  one,  two,  three,  and  four.  Spurs 
were  attached  to  their  sides  in  such  a  way,  that  the  faster  the  poor  ani- 
mals ran,  the  more  their  bleeding  flanks  were  lacerated.  So  ingenious 
is  man  in  devices  of  cruelty !  The  mechanic  who  invented  this 
species  of  torture,  probably  received  a  premium  as  liberal,  as  was  of- 
fered to  the  aeronaut,  for  risking  his  neck  to  amuse  others.  But  the 
bugle  sounds,  and  clear  the  course  !  is  the  cry.  Napoleon's  exhorta- 
tion might  with  propriety  have  been  proclaimed — "  save  himself  who 
can  !"  The  horses  were  let  loose  in  the  midst  of  such  a  multitude, 
and  left  the  goal  like  shot,  goaded  on  by  the  patent  spurs.  A  passage  was 
cleared  for  them  by  a  retreat  of  the  crowd,  sometimes  but  a  few  paces 
in  advance.  Fortunately  no  one  was  run  over  on  this  occasion  ;  but 
at  a  similar  celebration,  on  St.  John's  Day,  in  June  last,  six  persons 
were  killed.  His  Highness  has  lost  more  subjects  in  these  sports, 
than  he  ever  lost  in  battle,  though  he  holds  the  rank  of  General  in  the 
Austrian  service.  At  the  end  of  the  course,  the  steeds  are  caught, 
like  pigeons,  in  a  sheet  of  canvass.  The  Grand  Duke  receives  intel- 
ligence by  express,  which  horse  has  won  ;  and  he  communicates  the 
important  tidings  by  message,  in  the  form  of  hand-bills,  thrown  in  a 
shower  from  his  pavilion  like  the  Pope's  benedictions,  among  the 
gaping  multitude  below.  Such  is  the  finale  of  this  grand  spectacle. 
To  bring  the  subject  home,  what  would  be  thought  of  tlie  President  ^y  v 
of  tiie  United  States,  should  he  and  his  secretaries  forget  the  cares  of 
office,  and  appear  at  a  race-course,  with  their  pockets  stufted  with 
hand-bills? 


390        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

I  was  offered  an  introduction  to  the  Grand  Duke,  but  declined  it, 
feeling  no  wish  to  go  through  with  an  empty  formality,  and  having 
seen  as  much  of  him  in  public,  as  was  sufficient  for  my  purposes.  From 
all  I  have  been  able  to  learn,  he  possesses  little  mind  and  no  force  of 
character.  He  was  educated  by  pedants  and  religionists,  who  amused 
him  with  jests,  and  inculcated  lessons  of  subserviency  to  the  church, 
instead  of  liberal  views  becoming  a  prince.  Religious  toleration  no- 
minally exists  in  his  dominions  ;  yet  informations  by  the  priesthood, 
and  proscription  and  banishment  by  the  government,  are  said  to  be 
frequent.  Report  ascribes  to  him  studious  habits,  and  mornings  spent 
among  his  books  ;  but  the  fruits  of  his  researches  are  not  visible  in 
his  public  measures.  The  commercial,  agricultural,  and  manufactu- 
ring interests  are  depressed  ;  the  economical  system  of  his  predeces- 
sors has  been  deserted ;  the  extravagance  of  his  court  is  greatly  aug- 
mented ;  taxes  are  quadruple  the  amount  of  former  years;  and  his  sub- 
jects are  reduced  to  beggary. 

During  the  life  of  Ferdinand  his  father,  he  vpas  not  initiated  at  all 
into  the  cares  of  state,  and  on  his  accession  to  the  throne,  at  an  early 
age,  his  ministers  took  the  reigns  of  government  into  their  own  hands. 
They  still  have  control  of  the  public  interests,  leaving  to  the  Grand 
Duke  merely  the  management  of  private  affairs,  and  the  promotion  of 
his  personal  favourites  to  office.  Fassombroni  is  the  Prime  Minister  ; 
a  veteran  in  office,  who  has  gained  an  ascendency  over  the  mind  of  the 
sovereign,  by  a  pretended  attachment  to  his  father.  He  is  a  man  of  a 
good  deal  of  address  and  shrewdness,  making  a  great  show  of  liberal- 
ity and  regard  for  the  interests  of  the  people,  while  he  is  only  seeking 
to  advance  his  own,  by  securing  his  place.  The  Minister  of  the  Inte- 
rior was  educated  in  the  Papal  Court,  and  has  brought  with  him  all 
its  bigotry  and  superstition,  together  with  the  haughtiness  of  his  rank, 
and  an  open  contempt  for  popular  rights.  The  third  minister  is  a  mere 
cipher  ;  a  lawyer  of  moderate  talents,  and  a  sort  of  clerk  to  his  asso- 
ciates. Such  is  the  government  of  Tuscany,  denominated  good  only 
by  comparison,  because  the  other  petty  sovereignties  of  Italy  are  worse. 
Sardinia  and  Naples,  the  extremes  in  territory,  are  also  the  extremes 
in  degradation,  surpassing  even  the  empire  of  the  Pope.  It  is  no  un- 
common thing  for  exiles  from  the  tyranny  of  other  Itahan  States,  to 
seek  retuge  in  Tuscany.  Several  banished  Sicilian  nobles  were  seen 
at  Florence. 

The  streams  from  a  corrupt  fountain  must  of  course  be  impure ;  and 
the  evils  of  the  Tuscan  government  arediffiised  through  its  remotest  and 
lowest  channels.  I  made  particular  inquiries  into  the  judicial  system. 
The  administration  of  justice  here,  as  in  other  parts  of  Italy,  is  defective. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  :»»! 

arbitrary,  and  despotic.  It  has  scarcely  the  shadow  of  independence, 
and  personal  rights  and  property  are  placed  at  the  mercy  of  capricious 
tribunals.  AH  the  courts  arc  the  mere  creatures  of  the  sovereign, 
whose  will  is  the  law,  directed  in  subserviency  to  his  interests,  par- 
tialities, or  animosities.  The  subordinate  tribunals  go  through  the 
forms  of  judicial  proceedings,  with  the  civil  law  for  their  guide  ;  and 
in  most  instances,  their  decisions  may  be  impartial.  But  the  super- 
vision of  all  important  cases  is  vested  in  the  Grand  Duke,  and  they 
are  ultimately  disposed  of  as  he  may  dictate.  A  cause  was  recently 
decided  against  a  French  nobleman,  in  which  the  amount  in  litigation 
was  ^500,000.  Some  Jia;-d  things  were  said  of  the  motives  of  the 
tribunal,  and  the  French  minister  protested  against  the  equity  of  tho 
decision. 


392        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

LETTER  LXXX. 

FLORENCE  CONTINUED — PRODUCTIVE  INDUSTRY  OF  TUSCANY — MANUFAC- 
TURE OF  SILKS STRAW  HATS PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS EDUCATION 

ASCENDENCY  OF  THE  PRIESTHOOD RELIGIOUS  PROCESSIONS A  LIVING 

SAINT THEATRES OPERA THE  GOLDONI ACADEMY  OF  FINE  ARTS 

READING-ROOM — ITALIAN  NEWSPAPERS, 

July,  1826. 

I  MADE  inquiry  into  the  state  of  productive  industry  in  Tuscany,  and 
obtained  information  more  in  detail,  than  can  here  be  given  vfithout 
converting  a  brief  sketch  into  a  dissertation  on  statistics  and  political 
economy.  The  two  most  prominent  branches  of  manufactures  are 
silks  and  straw  hats.  It  is  estimated,  that  about  100,000  persons  are 
employed  in  these  tvFO  kinds  of  fabrics.  Both  are  on  the  decline,  from 
causes  already  assigned,  from  the  competitions  of  other  nations,  and 
from  recent  changes  in  the  commercial  world.  The  exportation  of 
silks  to  Cyprus,  Damascus,  and  other  parts  of  the  Levant,  formerly  so 
extensive  and  profitable  to  Tuscany,  has  been  almost  entirely  suspended 
by  the  war  between  the  Turks  and  the  Greeks,  and  the  monopolizing 
traffic  of  the  French.  Less  quantities  are  also  sent  to  Germany.  The 
English  have  never  allowed  the  importation  of  any  thing  beyond  the 
raw  material,  to  supply  their  own  manufactories.  At  present,  there- 
fore, the  trade  is  confined  chiefly  to  the  United  States,  Portugal,  and 
a  few  places  in  the  north  of  Europe. 

These  fabrics  are  wrought  almost  entirely  in  Florence.  In  some 
districts  of  the  city,  a  great  majority  of  the  inhabitants  are  weavers. 
Houses  are  purposely  constructed  in  a  substantial  manner,  with  two 
looms  each,  in  the  first  and  second  stories,  and  three  in  the  third. 
Young  and  robu?!  females  are  employed  in  the  manufacture,  which  is 
extremely  hard  work.  At  the  age  of  forty  they  are  worn  out,  and  be- 
come unfit  for  the  severe  labour  of  driving  the  looms. 

The  raw  materials  are  prepared  by  the  peasantry,  who  commence 
their  labours  about  the  last  of  April.  Seed  is  sown  and  a  crop  of  silk- 
worms spring  up.  When  of  a  proper  size,  they  are  placed  upon  mats 
and  fed  with  the  leaf  of  the  mulberry,  till  full  grown  and  their  skin 
becomes  semi-transparent  and  glossy.  They  are  then  transferred  to 
the  birch,  where  they  spin  their  silken  webs.  In  the  month  of  June, 
thecocons  are  collected  and  exposed  for  sale  in  the  Florentine  market. 
Thfcy  are  immersed  in  hot  water,  to  destroy  the  worm  forming  the  nu- 
cleus, who  would  otherwise  eat  his  way  through  the  envelope.     The 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         393 

ihread  is  then  wound,  and  becomes  fit  for  use.  Such  is  an  outhnc  ol' 
the  process,  literally  ah  ovo.  The  best  stuffs  wrought  at  Florence  are 
black  satins  and  taffeties  ;  while  the  richest  are  dove-coloured  silks, 
gros  de  naplcs,  and  dies  produced  from  the  cochineal. 

The  manufacture  of  straw  hats  in  Tuscany  is  of  remote  origin.  As 
early  as  the  year  1776,  when  Leghorn,  in  preference  to  the  other  ports 
of  the  Mediterranean,  became  the  centre  of  business  to  English  mer- 
chants, these  fabrics  took  tiie  name  of  the  mart,  and  were  made  an  arti- 
cle of  profitable  trade.  The  fashion  subsequently  extended  to  other 
countries,  and  among  the  rest  to  our  own.  England  has  since  imposed 
a  duty,  which  amounts  nearly  to  a  prohibition.  Yet  the  law  is  evaded 
by  smuggling  and  collusion.  As  the  importation  of  hats  is  forbidden, 
crowns  are  sent  in  one  box,  and  the  flats  in  another,  which  are  stiched 
together  after  their  arrival.  The  French  have  adopted  another  expe- 
dient. Finding  that  the  climate  of  their  own  country  was  not  congenial 
to  the  production  of  the  raw  material,  they  have  established  themselves 
in  Tuscany,  and  become  manufacturers  as  well  as  factors. 

But  notwithstanding  all  these  deductions,  50,000  persons  are  now 
employed  in  this  branch  of  industry,  and  the  annual  proceeds  amount 
to  about  five  millions  of  dollars.  Manufactories  are  established  all 
over  Tuscany,  but  more  particularly  in  the  environs  of  Florence, 
where  some  of  the  dealers  in  this  article  have  amassed  immense  for- 
tunes. Hats  of  the  first  quality  are  sent  to  France  ;  lliose  of  a  second 
rate  to  England  ;  and  the  refuse  to  the  United  States  and  the  north  of 
Europe.  Such  is  my  imformation,  derived  from  authentic  sources. 
The  shades  of  excellence  are  as  strongly  marked  by  the  material,  the 
braid,  and  the  finish,  as  are  the  different  qualities  in  the  same  species 
of  cloth.  Any  are  deemed  good,  till  better  have  been  examined. 
Much  fraud  and  imposition  have  been  practised  by  some  of  the  manu- 
facturers, in  glossing  over  slight  and  coarse  fabrics. 

The  wheat  of  which  the  Tuscan  hats  are  made,  is  sown  in  Novem- 
ber and  December.  Barren  and  dry  lands  yield  the  best  quahties. 
When  it  has  attained  a  proper  growth,  it  is  plucked  up  by  the  roots, 
and  bleaciied  by  alternate  exposure  to  the  dew  and  sun.  Afterwards 
it  is  separated  at  the  joints  in  the  stalks,  tied  up  in  bunches,  and  laid 
for  three  days  under  a  coat  of  brimstone.  TJie  braid  consists  of  tjiirteen 
strings,  and  the  sewing  is  done  with  a  double  thread,  properly  prepared 
by  boiling.  After  the  fabric  is  completed,  it  is  first  wasiied  in  pure  cold 
he  ;  then  dressed  with  a  hair-brush,  dipped  in  a  hot  lie  mixed  with 
French  soap  ;  and  lastly  rinsed  in  fresh  water.  The  hats  are  subsc- 
<iuently  exposed  to  the  sun  till  they  are  thoroughly  dried,  buried  again 

under  brimstone  for  throe  days,  and  the  finishing  touch  given  to  them 
vol,,  n.  .")0 


:394  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

by  a  lukewarm  iron.  I  shall  need  no  apology  for  the  minuteness  of 
the  foregoing  sketch,  if  it  shall  direct  the  attention  of  any  of  our 
countrywomen  to  this  species  of  industry  ;  for  it  is  a  neat,  delicate 
employment,  peculiarly  suited  to  female  fingers.  The  Tuscan  pea- 
sant girls  never  appeared  to  better  advantage,  than  when  seated  under 
the  shade  of  the  vine,  engaged  in  weaving  the  fairy  web. 
' —  The  public  institutions  of  Florence  are  numerous  ;  but  they  do  not 
at  present  appear  to  possess  much  activity,  or  to  be  very  productive  of 
benefits  to  the  country.  I  was  informed,  that  in  many  instances  they 
are  badly  managed,  being  committed  to  the  charge  of  men,  who  are 
either  not  qualified  for  the  places  they  hold,  or  who  prefer  their  own 
ease  and  interest  to  the  public  good.  Ecclesiastics  have  a  controlling 
influence  in  every  department  of  society.  The  education  of  boys  is 
entrusted  to  priests  and  monks  ;  and  females  are  buried  in  nunne- 
ries, till  they  are  of  age.  Doctrines,  prejudices,  and  prepossessions, 
thus  early  instilled  and  deeply  rooted,  give  to  the  priesthood  an  ascen- 
dency, which  is  wielded  to  their  own  purposes.  They  appear  to  be 
quite  as  numerous  as  at  Rome.  Every  tenth  man  you  meet  wears  a 
tunic  and  a  cocked  hat.  They  are  leeches  upon  the  body  politic, 
who  gorge  themselves  with  the  life-blood  of  their  victims. 

Religious  processions  take  place  almost  daily.  We  attended  seve- 
ral. The  first  was  the  Feast  of  the  Madonna  del  Carmine.  All  the 
city  rallied  as  usual.  It  was  an  intensely  hot  day,  and  it  appeared  to 
me  the  priests  and  monks,  particularly  the  ensigns  or  standard-bearers 
of  the  regiment,  earned  all  the  applause  they  received.  They  bore 
tremendous  wooden  crosses,  heavier  than  they  ever  sustained  spiritually, 
judging  from  the  rotundity  of  their  forms  ;  and  they  puffed  like  por- 
poises, as  they  toiled  and  sweat  along  the  procession,  sniffing  the  fumes 
of  burning  tapers,  instead  of  the  smoke  of  incense.  Afl;er  marching 
about  from  street  to  street,  to  the  sound  of  a  fine  band  of  music,  they 
entered  a  church  and  deposited  their  banners  for  the  night,  hurrying 
off"  to  the  Piazza  del  Duomo,  for  an  ice-cream  and  a  glass  of  orgeat 
to  cool  their  fervour. 

But  the  greatest  show  took  place  on  another  day,  I  forget  in  ho- 
nour of  what  Madonna  or  Saint,  so  numerous  are  they  in  Florence. 
The  scene  of  action  was  laid  in  the  great  avenue  leading  from  the  Cas- 
cine,  or  in  other  words  on  the  race-course  ;  and  the  same  set  of  deco- 
rations answered  for  both  festivals.  If  possible,  the  priests  drew  to- 
gether a  greater  concourse  of  people,  than  the  Barbary  steeds.  Am- 
phi theatric  seats  were  again  put  in  requisition.  The  procession  did  not 
move  till  dark  ;  for  the  blaze  of  tapers  and  the  glare  of  banners,  as 
well  as  the  solemn  chant,  produce  a  much  finer  effect  at  night.  Crosses 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        395 

and  crucifixes  without  number  rose  in  a  long  line.  At  length  came 
the  grandest  part  of  the  spectacle.  An  image  of  the  Madonna  of  the 
day,  made  of  wax,  as  large  as  life,  dressed  in  the  richest  Florentine 
silks,  crowned  with  a  diadem,  loaded  with  a  profusion  of  the  most 
gorgeous  ornaments,  and  seated  under  a  golden  canopy,  was  borne  on 
the  shoulders  of  four  men,  in  as  much  state,  as  the  Pope  rode  round 
the  aisles  of  St.  Peter's.  As  much  reverence  was  also  shown  to  the 
Virgin  as  to  his  Holiness  ;  for  the  people  all  knelt  and  said  an  Ave 
Maria,  as  the  pageant  passed. 

Is  it  possible  to  witness  these  daily  exhibitions,  in  which  homage  is 
exclusively  rendered  to  the  Madonna,  without  believing  the  Cathohc 
religion,  as  practised  in  Italy,  but  little  elevated  above  idolatry  ?  1 
have  no  reason  to  think,  that  one  in  fifty  of  the  crowd  here  assembled, 
raised  his  thoughts  higher  than  the  tawdry  image  to  which  he  bowed. 
It  is  idle  to  talk  of  symbols.  There  must  have  been  a  long  train  of 
associations,  to  run  from  a  waxen  figure  to  the  Virgin,  from  the  Vir- 
gin to  the  Saviour,  and  from  the  latter  to  the  Supreme  Being.  The 
multitude  are  not  accustomed  to  such  an  abstraction,  refinement, 
and  concatenation  of  ideas.  But  if  God  be  the  ultimate  object  of 
worship,  as  some  contend,  where  is  the  necessity  of  the  intervention 
of  so  many  emblems  ?  There  are  images  enough  of  the  Saviour  and 
even  of  the  Father  in  Italy,  to  supersede  the  introduction  of  another 
divinity. 

In  walking  along  the  Lung  '  Arno  one  evening  with  an  Italian  friend, 
we  saw  a  living  Saint,  or  at  least  he  sustains  that  character  in  the  eyes 
of  the  Florentines.  lie  is  a  monk,  who  dwells  in  a  convent,  near  the 
gate  leading  to  Leghorn.  He  was  going  towards  his  cell,  and  we 
pursued  him,  keeping  a  few  paces  in  the  rear,  to  elude  observation. 
His  march  was  arroetcd  onco  in  every  two  or  three  rods,  by  persons 
who  darted  out  from  the  side-walks,  and  knelt  m  the  street,  to  receive 
his  benediction.  He  blessed  them  all.  A  sort  of  bustle  took  place 
in  the  act  of  genuflection,  and  words  were  muttered  in  a  half  whisper, 
which  we  could  not  understand.  He  often  goes  abroad  on  such  ex- 
cursions. The  people  all  know  his  walk  even  in  the  dark,  and  never 
permit  him  to  pass  unnoticed. 

The  American  Consul  pointed  out  to  me,  in  one  of  our  rambles  to 
the  Cascine,  the  house  which  belonged  to  Americus  Vespucius,  the 
pretended  discoverer  of  America,  and  who  succeeded  in  givino- 
name  to  the  New  World.  A  long  inscription  on  the  front  records  the 
fame  or  infamy  of  its  former  proprietor.  We  paused  and  read  it, 
although  I  did  not  feel  a  very  lively  interest  in  a  man,  who  had  depri- 
ved Columbus  of  a  share  of  his  glory.     Some  of  the  family  of  Ves- 


396        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

pucci,  (as  the  name  is  here  written,)  are  still  living.  They  are  of  no- 
ble birth,  and  I  believe  yet  own  the  tenement. 

On  a  certain  day  in  the  year,  the  boatmen  arc  permitted  to  navigate 
the  Arno,  within  the  limits  of  the  city.  They  make  a  festival  of  it, 
as  they  do  of  every  thing.  The  anniversary  happened  during  our  visit. 
All  the  barks  on  the  river  were  decked  with  splendid  flags,  and  moved 
from  the  Santa  Trinita,  to  the  sound  of  martial  music.  The  Lung 
'Arno  and  bridges  were  covered  with  spectators,  adding  to  the  novelty 
and  brilliancy  of  the  exhibition. 

I  have  described  the  sacred  spectacles  of  Florence  ;  and  let  us  now 
for  a  moment  turn  to  the  profane.  The  latter  appeared  to  me  as  little 
calculated  to  exalt  the  national  character  as  the  former.  There  are 
several  theatres  in  the  city,  two  of  which  only  were  open  at  the  time 
of  our  visit.  The  Pergola  or  Opera-house  is  by  far  the  most  promi- 
nent. It  is  a  large,  splendid,  and  beautiful  building,  enriched  with 
frescos  and  other  decorations  in  good  taste.  The  boxes,  hung  with 
crimson  curtains,  may  with  propriety  be  denominated  saloons,  much 
better  finished  and  furnished  than  the  best  apartments  in  most  Italian 
palaces.  In  fact  they  may  be  considered  as  the  evening  pavilions  of 
the  nobility  and  higher  classes  of  society,  who  here  hold  their  soirees, 
instead  of  receiving  their  friends  at  home.  By  drawing  the  curtain, 
coffee,  ice-creams,  and  other  refreshments  can  be  served  up  in  as  good 
style,  and  with  as  much  retirement,  as  in  a  private  dwelling. 

On  the  first  night  of  our  attendance  at  the  Pergola,  the  play  was  a 
melo-drama  in  two  acts,  entitled  "  Amazilda  and  Zamoro."  It  is  a 
new  piece,  which  was  brought  out  at  this  theatre  the  present  year, 
"  under  the  special  patronage  of  Leopold  II.  Grand  Duke  of  Tuscany.'' 
We  saw  only  the  first  act,  and  that  was  quite  enough.  It  is  a  Persian 
tale,  and  the  scene  is  laid  in  Astrar.an  and  its  onvirnns.  The  story 
afforded  an  opportunity  of  intruducirig  all  the  splendour  of  oriental 
costumes  and  parades,  which  is  a  great  object  with  those  who  seek  to 
gratify  the  eye,  rather  than  the  ear,  the  mind,  or  the  heart.  To  show 
that  no  sort  of  interest  is  excited  by  either  the  plot  or  the  characters  in 
an  Italian  play,  it  is  only  necessary  to  state  that  the  action  of  the  drama 
is  interrupted  by  the  intervention  of  the  ballet,  or  what  with  us  is  the 
after-piece.  Now,  who  would  endure  such  a  pause  and  such  a  diver- 
sion of  the  mind,  in  a  French  or  English  tragedy  or  comedy  ?  Yet 
the  Italians  hear  the  first  act  of  an  opera,  take  their  coffee  and  ice- 
creams, witness  an  interlude  of  an  hour  or  two,  and  then  enter  upon 
the  second  part  of  a  play,  with  the  dramatis  personae  of  both  pieces 
mingled  together  in  their  minds.     The  truth  is,  that  although  they  arc 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        397 

\a  the  highest  degree  a  musical,  theatre-going,  spectacle-loving  people, 
they  have  very  little  taste  or  relish  for  the  regular  drama. 

The  ballet  at  the  Pergola  was  denominated  ^  Genserico  in  Roma, 
ballo  istorico,  tragico,  pantomimo,  in  oinque  atti."  Its  very  name  is 
sutticient  to  prove  the  absurdity  of  its  character.  A  historical,  tra- 
gical, and  pantomimical  dance  I  What  a  solecism  in  taste — what  a 
monster  in  the  dramatic  art !  To  make  the  matter  worse,  the  scene 
is  laid  in  the  Roman  Capitol  and  the  Roman  Senate,  the  seat  of  gra- 
vity, dignity,  and  wisdom,  associated  in  the  mind  with  all  that  is  lofty, 
imperial,  and  grand.  The  spectator  sees  the  Conscript  Fathers,  Mi- 
litary Tribunes,  Praetors,  Lictors,  Roman  matrons,  people,  and  sol- 
diers enter  successively,  unite  in  the  dumb  show,  and  cut  pigeon-wings 
and  pirouettes.  Had  Signer  Antonio  Monticini,  the  author  of  the 
piece,  been  present,  I  should  have  inquired  of  him,  which  was  Cato, 
Sempronius,  Scipio,  Pompey,  Tully,  and  Caesar,  in  his  senatorial  group, 
who  handed  down  their  partners  with  so  much  grace,  and  tripped  it  so 
nimbly  "  on  the  hght  fantastic  toe."  Compare  the  dramatic  proprie- 
ties of  this  play  with  those  of  Addison's  Cato,  Julius  Caesar,  and  Co- 
riolanus,  or  with  the  dignity  of  French  tragedy,  and  you  have  precisely 
the  difference  between  the  Italian  and  English  stage,  as  the  latter  was 
modelled  by  Shakspeare  and  Garrick,  or  as  that  of  France  has  since 
been  by  Voltaire  and  Talma.  It  is  true,  that  Italy  has  produced  a 
liberal  share  of  histrionic  talent  ;  but  the  dramas  of  Alfieri,  Goldoni, 
and  others  arc  seldom  brought  upon  the  boards,  while  such  spectacles 
as  the  above  are  substituted  in  their  places. 

At  a  second  visit  to  the  Pergola,  we  heard  the  celebrated  David 
sing  at  a  great  concert.  He  is  perhaps  the  first  vocalist  in  Italy  ;  a 
man  of  genius,  possessmg  extraordinary  natural  powers,  which  he  is 
fast  ruining  by  intemperance.  His  performances  are  inimitably  and 
indescribably  fine.  The  boxes  on  this  evening  were  illuminated  by 
all  the  beauty,  gaiety,  and  fashion  of  Florence.  Galleries  of  Grecian 
faces,  polished  brows,  and  dark  languishing  eyes,  softened  by  the  in- 
fluence of  melting  music,  presented  altogether  a  brilliant  scene. 

We  went  several  times  to  the  Goldoni,  svhich  is  constructed  pre- 
cisely in  the  manner  of  the  old  Roman  amphitheatres.  The  specta- 
tors sit  under  the  open  air,  looking  alternately  at  the  stars  upon  the 
stage,  and  the  still  brighter  ones  which  sparkle  in  an  Italian  firmament 
above  their  heads.  On  one  evening  of  my  attendance,  the  moon 
peeped  in  at  the  aperture,  and  the  effulgence  of  her  orb  attracted  quite 
as  much  of  my  attention,  as  the  progress  of  the  play,  or  a  pretty 
group  of  warbling  actresses,  who  sang  like  nightingales  to  the  listen- 
ing skies.     The  pieces  here  performed  are  of  much  the  same  charac- 


398        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

ter,  as  I  have  already  described.  It  is  the  most  popular  theatre  in  the 
city,  and  is  open  twice  a  day  ;  once  at  5  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and 
again  in  the  evening. 

Not  far  from  the  theatre  is  the  Goldoni  Garden,  which  is  open  on 
the  evenings  of  all  festivals,  for  promenades  and  fetes  champetres.  It 
is  a  cool  and  delightful  retreat.  The  grounds  are  spacious,  laid  out 
with  walks,  and  shaded  with  trees,  amidst  the  foliage  of  which  are  sus- 
pended coloured  lamps.  In  the  centre  rises  an  orchestra,  occupied  by 
a  numerous  band  of  musicians,  and  about  it  is  an  extensive  floor,  a 
step  from  the  ground,  which  is  the  arena  for  dancing.  At  intervals  of 
five  or  ten  minutes,  the  music  strikes  up,  and  whoever  chooses  to  enter 
the  lists,  selects  his  partner,  and  waltzes  half  a  dozen  times  round  the 
circle,  while  the  multitude  seated  upon  the  benches  about  the  garden 
look  on  and  applaud.  The  walks  open  into  numerous  saloons,  where 
refreshments  of  all  kinds  are  to  be  had.  People  of  the  first  rank 
attend  ;  though  the  dancers  are  commonly  of  the  lower  orders,  and 
sometimes  evince  rudeness  instead  of  grace. 

Such  are  some  of  the  resources  for  public  amusement  in  the  Tuscan 
capital.  But  there  are  others  of  a  graver,  more  elevated,  and  rational 
character.  The  extensive  and  rich  collections  of  the  arts  are  always 
open  to  the  gratification  of  the  traveller.  We  repeated  our  visits  fre- 
quently to  the  gallery,  to  renew  an  acquaintance  with  old  favourites, 
and  to  discover  new  subjects  for  admiration.  Having  said  so  much 
on  the  pictures  and  statues  of  Rome,  as  well  as  on  the  more  promi- 
nent articles  in  this  collection,  I  forbear  to  retrace  the  cabinets  and 
corridors  a  second  time,  for  the  purpose  of  supplying  the  deficiencies 
of  a  former  sketch.  With  all  the  additions  and  amendments  it  would 
be  in  my  power  to  make,  a  notice  of  such  a  collection  must  necessa- 
rily be  left  very  imperfect. 

We  paid  an  interesting  visit  to  the  Royal  Academy  of  Fine  Arts, 
which  is  a  noble  institution,  worthy  of  the  days  of  the  Medici,  though 
the  great  men  who  gave  splendour  to  that  age  are  now  wanting,  to  elicit 
genius  and  talent  by  their  patronage.  This  Academy  was  founded 
by  Leopold  I.,  who  by  way  of  distinction  in  modern  times,  may  be 
called  the  Great.  Its  various  departments  comprise  schools  for  de- 
sign, architecture,  statuary,  and  painting.  In  the  rooms  appropriated 
to  the  two  former,  are  beautiful  models  for  buildings,  exhibiting  the 
most  finished  proportions  of  the  Grecian  orders  ;  for  the  Italians  them- 
selves are  now  convinced,  that  after  putting  ingenuity  to  the  rack  for 
centuries,  to  invent  new  combinations,  the  remains  of  antiquity  after 
all  form  the  only  standards  of  a  correct  taste.  To  a  new  country? 
this  fact  is  worthy  of  attention.     An  attempt  to  improve  upon  the 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         399 

models  of  Greece,  is  just  as  absurd,  as  are  experiments  to  discover 
perpetual  motion.  TJie  apartments  for  painting  and  sculpture  contain 
casts  and  copies  of  all  the  great  works  in  Italy.  This  institution,  as 
well  as  the  gallery,  is  furnished  with  all  the  appurtenances  and  conve- 
niences for  young  artists,  who  may  prosecute  their  studies  free  of  ex- 
pense. The  productions  of  such  as  excel  in  their  profession  line  the 
walls. 

Soon  after  our  return  to  Florence,  the  American  Consul  introduced 
us  to  a  large  reading-room  near  the  Ponte  Santa  Trinita.  Opposite 
the  door  stands  a  stately  granitic  column,  reared  by  Cosimo  I.  in  ho- 
nour of  the  conquest  of  Siena.  It  is  surmounted  by  a  statue  of 
Justice,  which  is  emblematic  neither  of  the  ruin  of  the  Sienese,  nor  of 
the  district  over  which  the  goddess  presides  ;  for  according  to  the  jests 
of  the  Florentines,  she  looks  down  upon  some  of  the  greatest  knaves 
in  the  city.  The  proprietor  of  the  readmg-room,  however,  is  not  of 
the  number,  but  an  intelligent  clever  man.  His  apartments  contain  a 
large  circulating  library,  and  are  furnished  with  ihe  Journals  of  Italy, 
France,  England,  and  the  north  of  Europe.  Italian  newspapers  are 
the  most  barren,  dull,  and  insipid  productions  that  can  be  imagined. 
They  are  precisely  what  the  French  government  is  now  labouring  to 
make  the  journals  of  that  country,  by  the  restoration  of  the  censor- 
ship. Their  dimensions  are  upon  the  scale  of  seven  by  nine,  and  their 
contents  comprise  little  else,  than  notices  of  ecclesiastical  movements, 
feasts,  celebrations,  and  the  multifarious  functions  of  the  Pope.  One 
paper  only  is  published  in  each  of  the  great  cities,  and  that  in  most  in- 
stances issues  but  once  or  twice  a  week.  In  a  word,  the  press  is  en- 
tirely prostrate  in  Italy,  and  has  been  degraded  into  the  most  servile 
instrument  of  church  and  state.  Some  attempts  have  been  made  to 
revive  its  freedom  ;  but  they  have  soon  been  crushed  by  the  despotism 
of  the  governments. 

I  could  not  perceive,  that  the  climate  of  Florence  in  summer  differs 
materially  from  that  of  New-York.  The  thermometer,  on  the  warmest 
days,  stands  at  about  90  degrees  of  Farenheit  in  the  shade.  It  appeared 
to  me  that  the  rarefaction  of  the  air  is  greater,  and  the  heat  more  op- 
pressive, than  it  is  in  our  country.  Severe  thunder-storms  occurred 
almost  daily,  rebellowing  among  the  hills  with  tremendous  peals.  The 
Arno  would  sometimes  in  the  course  of  a  few  hours  swell  from  a  rill 
to  a  torrent.  In  one  instance,  a  furious  tornado  sw  ept  up  the  Valdar- 
no  in  fearful  violence,  unroofing  and  prostrating  many  houses  in  the 
vicinity  of  Leghorn  and  Pisa.  In  a  word,  the  skies  of  Tuscany  are 
far  from  being  forever  bright  and  cloudless,  though  the  proportion  of 
fine  weather  throughout  the  year  is  doubtless  greater,  than  in  almost 
any  other  country. 


J^ 


491)  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

LETTER  LXXXI. 

EXCURSION  TO  THE   BATHS  OF  LUCCA PISTOIA PESCIA VALE  OP  THE 

SERCHIO ARRIVAL  AT  THE  BATHS SCORPIONS SKETCH  OF  SCENERY 

HOT  SPRINGS BUONVI91 COUNT    DEMIDOFF THEATRE BALLS 

CASINO COBSO PONTE  SERRAGLIO. 

August^  1826. 

At  6  o'clock  on  the  evening  of  the  4th,  we  set  out  on  an  excursion  to 
the  Baths  of  Lucca,  in  company  with  the  American  Consul.  My 
fellow-boarder  from  New-York  was  of  the  party.  Passing  down  the 
right  bank  of  the  Arno,  through  the  Cascine,  we  were  soon  in  the 
midst  of  one  of  the  most  fertile  and  luxuriant  regions  I  ever  beheld. 
The  vale  is  literally  and  emphatically  buried  in  verdure,  forming  a  mass 
so  thick  and  tangled,  as  to  appear  wholly  impervious.  Mulberries  and 
other  trees,  matted  with  vines,  formed  the  principal  growth  ;  and  to 
these  were  added  a  thousand  accessories,  consisting  of  every  species 
of  vegetation.  The  late  copious  showers  and  warm  suns  had  given 
vigour  and  a  vivid  tinge  to  the  foliage.  Nothing  can  surpass  the  rich- 
ness of  this  district ;  and  the  beauty,  neatness,  and  industry  of  the 
peasantry  are  in  harmony  with  the  charms  of  the  country.  We  saw 
numerous  groups  of  them,  sitting  before  the  doors  of  their  houses,  in 
the  villages  along  the  road,  or  in  some  cases,  in  the  open  fields,  busy 
at  their  work  of  braiding  straw.  They  lead  a  most  laborious  life, 
subsisting  on  light  fare,  and  toiling  hard.  The  traveller  cannot  but  feel 
a  degree  of  indignation,  that  so  large  a  portion  of  their  little  earnings 
should  be  absorbed  by  the  extravagance  of  the  government,  or  go  to 
support  those  harpies  of  Italy,  a  voracious  priesthood. 

A  bright  sunset  spread  its  glow  over  the  chain  of  hills  upon  our 
right,  and  the  softness  of  twilight  was  delicious.  At  dusk  we  passed 
one  of  the  seven  or  eight  country  residences,  belonging  to  the  Grand 
Duke  of  Tuscany.  The  exterior  is  stately.  It  is  said  to  contain 
some  good  pictures  In  its  halls,  one  of  the  Medici  was  poisoned  at 
the  instigation  of  a  Cardinal.  Several  canals  cross  the  vale  of  the 
Arno  in  this  vicinity.  At  10  o'clock  we  reached  Pistoia,  and  walked 
about  to  look  at  the  ancient  city.  It  is  famous  for  the  defeat  of 
Cataline's  army,  by  the  forces  of  the  Republic.  Its  walls  and  gates 
are  lofty  and  substantial.  One  of  the  streets  is  spacious.  The 
greatest  show  I  saw  was  a  profusion  of  fine  water-melons,  with 
red  paper  lanterns  so  contrived,  as  to  give  their  core  a  ruddier  hue. 
A  scorpion  was  killed  in  my  presence,  upon  the  pavement — the  first  I 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         401 

iiad  ever  seen,  though  by  no  means  the  last,  as  the  sequel  will  show. 
It  is  a  black  odious  looking-  animal,  several  inches  in  length,  with 
feelers  like  a  lobster.  Its  sting  is  often  fatal,  in  August  and  Septem- 
ber. Men  were  sleeping  upon  their  backs,  within  a  few  feet  of  the 
reptile. 

After  resting  two  hours,  and  refreshing  ourselves  with  an  omelet 
and  a  glass  of  red  wine,  we  proceeded  slowly  upon  our  journey,  and 
reached  Pescia  at  dawn  of  day.  Early  as  it  was,  the  peasantry  were 
pouring  into  the  village,  carrying  their  vegetables  and  fruits  to  market. 
The  females  have  beautiful  faces,  lighted  up  with  apparent  cheerfulness. 
They  bear  their  baskets  upon  their  heads  :  and  no  sculptor  ever  fa- 
shioned from  the  marble,  caryatides  half  so  graceful,  as  might  be  found 
in  this  group  of  market-girls.  We  paused  a  few  minutes  and  looked 
into  a  little  church.  A  priest  was  at  the  altar,  and  the  villagers  were 
kneeling  at  their  matins.     Their  devotions  were  not  disturbed. 

The  neutral  ground,  on  the  borders  of  Tuscany  and  Lucca,  is  the 
arena  for  duels — a  kind  of  sport  of  which  the  Italians  are  not  fond. 
They  prefer  to  use  the  dirk.  We  rode  for  some  miles  along  the  bor- 
ders of  a  canal,  which  hurries  down  from  the  mountains  with  a  copious, 
strong  current,  and  soon  found  ourselves  upon  the  banks  of  the  Ser- 
cljio,  an  old  acquaintance.  It  is  here  a  large  and  beautiful  stream. 
The  road  winds  along  its  brink,  and  enters  a  mountainous  region,  form- 
ing a  miniature  picture  of  the  Alps.  First  descending  upon  the  rocks 
and  washing  in  the  pure  waters  of  the  river,  we  obtained  another 
omelet  at  a  small  inn,  containing  more  Madonnas  and  crucifixes  than 
comforts. 

The  path  onv/ard  is  excellent.  It  was  begun  by  the  French,  and 
finished  by  the  Princess  Maria  Louisa.  We  were  soon  lost  among 
the  lofty  and  green  ridges  of  the  Apennines,  pursuing  the  capricious 
windings  of  the  Serchio  for  ten  miles.  The  liills  arc  clollied  with 
chestnut,  and  often  crowned  with  convents  and  cottages,  in  situations 
the  most  wild  and  romantic  imaginable.  Small  white  villages  are 
sprinkled  along  the  bottom  of  the  glen,  which  is  not  more  than  half  a 
mile  in  width.  Occasionally  a  spire  rises  from  its  quiet  bosom.  Se- 
veral ancient  and  ruinous  bridges  extend  across  the  river.  One  of 
them  is  said  to  be  the  work  of  the  devil. 

The  Austrian,  Prussian,  and  Swedish  ministers  passed  us  in  splen- 
did style,  on  their  way  to  the  Baths,  the  modern  Baia3,  or  tlic  Saratoga 
of  Italy.  Crossing  the  Ponte  Serraglio,  the  Rialto  of  Lucca,  we  en- 
tered the  busy,  bustling,  and  gay  little  village  about  noon.  A  meridian 
sun  pouring  down  its  blaze  upon  a  southern  exposure,  so  hemmed  in 
by  Ihe  surrounding  hills,  as  to  exclude  every  breath  of  air,  induced  me 

VOL.  IT.  51 


402        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

to  believe,  that  this  watering-place  is  not  the  most  eligible  summer 
rcireat.  I  am  not  yet  fully  satisfied,  that  my  first  impression  was 
erroneous,  though  the  village  certainly  improves  wonderfully  on  ac- 
quaintance. 

As  crowds  of  visitants  had  already  arrived,  we  deemed  ourselves 
extremely  fortunate  in  obtaining,  through  the  negotiations  of  Teresa, 
a  suite  of  chambers,  in  a  large  house,  standing  in  a  retired  situation, 
at  the  base  ot'  a  romantic  hill,  the  rocks  of  which  rose  to  Alpine  heights 
above  our  windows.  But  how  fallacious  are  often  our  hopes  in  the 
smaller,  as  well  as  in  the  more  important  concerns  of  life  !  Scarcely 
Avere  we  comfortably  settled,  before  domestic  afflictions  began  to 
thicken  upon  us.  At  Pistoia  my  companions  laughed  at  my  appre- 
hensions of  meeting  scorpions.  Soon  after  our  arrival,  the  Consul, 
in  letting  down  his  window-curtain,  was  nigh  putting  his  hand  upon 
one  of  the  monsters,  coiled  up  in  its  folds.  A  cry  was  raised,  and  an 
old  woman  came  in  and  despatched  it  with  her  broom-stick.  Next 
morning  I  found  another  of  the  venomous  reptiles,  secreted  under  my 
boots,  within  a  few  feet  of  my  bed.*  In  the  course  of  the  day,  three 
or  four  more  were  killed  in  various  parts  of  the  house.  I  sat  up  all 
one  night  as  a  sentinel,  to  watch  the  movements  of  the  enemy,  while 
my  friends  slept.  A  council  of  war  was  held,  and  it  was  unanimously 
agreed,  that  a  retreat  was  expedient.  We  accordingly  repacked  our 
trunks,  and  took  lodgings  with  Signora  Fieri,  a  smart  Luccese  house- 
wife, who  gave  us  new  apartments,  which  were  at  least  free  from 
scorpions. 

Thus  eligibly  settled  for  a  week,  we  set  about  examining  localities, 
and  the  resources  for  instruction  and  amusement.  The  situation  of 
the  Baths  of  Lucca  is  in  the  highest  degree  picturesque  and  roman- 
tic. An  insulated  hill,  perhaps  1500  feet  in  height,  rises  in  the  centre 
of  an  immense  amphitheatre  of  the  Apennines,  of  still  greater  eleva- 
tion, but  clothed  to  their  very  tops  with  successive  belts  of  vines,  olives, 
and  chestnuts,  in  the  midst  of  which  is  here  and  there  seen  a  dwelling 
or  convent  hanging  upon  the  rocks.  To  the  north  of  the  central 
mount,  which  is  three  or  four  miles  in  circumference,  flows  the  Ser- 
chio,  and  on  the  south,  the  Lima,  one  of  its  principal  branches. 


*  A  captain  in  the  British  Navy,  whom  I  met  at  tlie  Baths,  informed  me  that 
he  found  one  of  these  animals  crawling  up  the  bed-clothes  towards  an  infant 
child,  who  was  asleep.  They  appear  to  be  more  numerous  liere,  than  in  other 
parts  of  Italy ;  though  thirteen  were  killed  in  my  boarding-house  at  Florence  the 
last  year. 


LETTERS  FROM  ELROPK.  4U:{ 

Both  streams  wind  through  deep  glens,  sometimes  rural,  but  more 
frequently  wild,  and  unite  just  below  the  Ponte  Scrraglio. 

Three  separate  villages  rise  round  the  sides  of  the  rocky  and  woody 
cone  ;  one  in  the  vale  of  the  Serchio,  another  on  the  bank  of  the 
Lima,  and  a  third  near  the  point  of  junction.  The  houses  of  the 
respective  hamlets  often  straggle  more  than  half  way  up  the  green 
barrier,  which  divides  them,  A  footpath,  ascending  'by  terraces, 
passes  over  the  very  summit,  and  opens  a  direct  communication  be- 
tween tiie  groups  of  visitants.  The  currents  of  the  two  rivers  are 
rapid,  and  their  waters  musical.  At  evening,  when  the  houses  are 
all  lighted  up,  and  illuminated  windows  are  seen  at  aerial  heights 
among  the  trees,  the  view  is  fanciful  and  brilliant  beyond  description. 

The  hot  springs  gush  in  coj)ious  streams  from  the  brow  of  the  hill 
on  both  sides,  where  spacious  baths  have  been  erected,  crowned  with 
triple  towers,*  finished  in  good  style,  and  furnished  with  the  usual  ac- 
commodations and  conveniences.  They  are  under  the  superintend- 
ence of  three  commissioners,  appointed  annually  by  the  Duke  from 
among  his  nobility,  who  may  ex  officio  be  styled  "  Knights  of  the 
Bath."  The  prices  are  fixed  at  moderate  rates,  and  tiie  regulations 
appear  to  be  judicious  and  liberal.  We  bathed  daily.  The  waters 
are  transparent,  exhilarating,  and  delicious ;  though  I  thought  they 
subsequently  produced  languor,  and  had  not  a  salutary  cft'oct  upon 
the  constitution.  The  natural  temperature  of  the  fountains  is  gene- 
rally about  90  degrees  ;  but  some  of  them  are  so  hot  as  to  form 
vapour  baths,  which  are  fitted  up  for  that  purpose.  Strange  as  it  may 
seem,  we  saw  a  water-snake  swimming  in  one  of  these  reservoirs. 
There  is  one  kind  of  bathing  called  by  the  Italians  doccr^  which  is 
used  in  local  aflections.  A  stream  of  hot  water  is  forced  with  great 
violence  through  a  pipe,  upon  the  seat  of  the  complaint.  It  is  said  to 
prove  efficacious. 

On  the  day  after  our  arrival,  we  were  introduced  to  a  wealthy  mer- 
chant of  Leghorn,  to  whom  a  friend  at  Marseilles  had  given  us  letters. 
He  owns  a  palace  here,  another  at  Pisa,  and  several  at  the  seat  of  his 
business,  where  he  alternately  resides,  as  the  season  may  render  it  the 
most  agreeable.  We  were  fortunate  in  finding  him  among  the  Apen- 
nines, as  his  profuse  hospitality  contributed  essentially  to  the  pleasures 
of  our  excursion.     He  gave  us  the  freedom  of  his  box  at  Demidoff's 


*  A  vane  on  one  of  these  lowers  bears  the  word  "Libertas" — Liberty — a  motto 
not  often  found  in  modern  Italy.  There  is  also  a  long  Latin  inscription  in  the 
vestibule  of  one  of  the  baths,  ascribing  to  the  waters  the  same  miraculous  proper- 
ties, which  Ilobbes  imputes  to  tho?e  of  Buxlon.  in  Derbyshire. 


404         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

theatre,  and  insisted  on  our  dining  with  him,  with  the  occasional  addi- 
tion of  a  breakfast,  every  day  during  our  visit.  His  table  was  always 
crowned  with  dainties — with  trout  from  the  neighbouring  brooks,  vege- 
tables and  fruits  from  his  own  gardens,  fresh  butter  made  every  morn- 
ing on  his  own  farm,  a  dozen  kinds  of  the  choicest  wines,  cooled  by 
a  fountain  playing  in  the  dining-hall,  after  the  manner  of  the  Tricli- 
nium of  the  ^Dld  Romans. 

His  palace  at  the  Baths  is  appropriately  called  the  Buonvisi  or 
Bellevue.  It  stands  on  the  declivity,  half  way  up  the  green  eminence 
between  the  Lima  and  Serchio,  affording  a  wide  and  enchanting  view 
into  the  vale  of  the  former,  and  of  the  mountains  rising  above.  In 
the  rear,  cliffs  tufted  with  trees  and  half  buried  in  vines,  climb  stage 
above  stage,  in  ranges  of  terraces  for  hundreds  of  feet.  A  garden 
spreads  below,  watered  by  a  bright  fountain,  which  plays  into  a  white 
marble  basin,  and  is  shaded  by  laurel.  On  one  side  stands  a  pretty 
pavilion,  ornamented  with  frescos,  which  was  occupied  at  the  time  of 
our  visit  by  the  British  minister  at  the  court  of  Tuscany.  The  palace 
itself  is  lofty,  and  its  saloons  are  furnished  in  elegant  style.  It  has 
some  interesting  associations.  The  celebrated  Montaigne  has  given 
a  description  of  it  in  his  travels  through  Italy.  He  occupied  it  for 
some  time  in  1681,  and  gave  a  splendid  ball  in  the  very  saloon,  where 
we  used  daily  to  dine.  He  ascribes  to  it  a  refreshing  coolness,  which 
it  still  possesses.  Its  present  wealthy  proprietor,  who  has  reached 
almost  a  patriarchal  age,  but  is  still  blest  with  a  liberal  share  of  viva- 
city, has  opened  a  secluded  walk,  for  the  distance  of  a  mile,  into  the 
sohtudes  of  the  mountains,  whither  he  resorts  every  morning  at  an  early 
hour  for  exercise.  He  called  us  out  of  bed  on  one  occasion,  to  ac- 
company hint-tt)  his  charming  retreat.  In  the  afternoon,  he  rolls  in 
his  phaeton  over  the  Ponte  Serraglio,  mingling  in  the  fashionable 
throng.  I  have  been  thus  particular  in  a  description  of  this  seat,  be- 
cause it  is  decidedly  the  finest  at  the  Baths,  and  presents  a  picture  of 
the  peculiar  local  scenery. 

The  head-quarters  of  gaiety  and  fashion  are  the  palace  and  theatre 
of  Count  Demidoff,  situated  upon  the  banks  of  the  Lima,  several  hun- 
dred feet  below  the  Buonvisi.  This  Russian  nobleman  is  as  remarka- 
ble for  his  splendour,  as  for  his  boundless  wealth.  He  is  the  proprie- 
tor of  the  mines  of  Siberia,  and  his  income  exceeds  a  million  of  dollars 
a  year,  which  with  all  his  extravagance  he  cannot  contrive  means  to 
exhaust.  His  expenses  at  the  Baths  are  said  to  be  a  thousand  dollars 
a  day,  and  lo  exceed  this  amount,  during  his  residence  at  Leghorn  in 
September,  and  at  Florence  in  winter.  He  keeps  twenty-six  splendid 
coaches,  with  four  and  six  horses  to  each,  and  his  retinue  comprises  a 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        405 

regiment.  The  inmates  of  his  palace,  exclusive  of  servants,  are  forty- 
six  in  number.  In  his  train,  he  has  constantly  a  full  corps  of  French 
players,  who  follow  him  about  from  place  to  place,  for  the  amusement 
of  himself  and  friends.  By  the  prettiest  of  the  actresses,  he  has  a 
natural  son,  who  is  now  a  sprightly  lad,  and  who  may  be  seen  every 
evening  galloping  his  pony  across  the  Ponte  Serraglio,  at  the  side  of 
his  mother,  and  followed  by  the  dwarf  of  Demidoff,  who  has  charge 
of  his  diamonds.  The  latter  is  a  mere  lump  of  flesh,  and  makes  a 
most  grotesque  figure,  when  mounted  on  horseback,  and  coursing  like 
the  wind. 

We  first  saw  the  Count  in  passing  his  palace.  He  was  seated  in  a 
shady  portico  asleep,  while  a  negro  stood  by  fanning  him,  and  keeping 
oflf  the  flies.  The  picture  forcibly  brought  to  my  mind  a  passage  in 
Cowper  : 

"  I  would  not  have  a  slave  to  till  my  ground, 
To  carry  me,  to  fan  me  while  I  sleep, 
And  tremble  when  I  wake,  for  all  the  wealth 
That  sinews  bought  and  sold  have  ever  earn'd." 

But  when  one  reasons  philosophically  on  the  subject,  there  may  be 
no  cruelty  in  such  an  ignoble  service.  It  may  be  even  an  act  of  kind- 
ness. The  slave  is  doubtless  well  fed  and  well  paid  ;  and  it  is  not  so 
hard  to  wield  a  palm-leaf  or  the  tail  of  a  bird,  as  either  the  hoe  or 
spade. 

We  subsequently  saw  the  Count,  not  only  whirled  along  the  Corso 
m  one  of  his  score  of  gilded  coaches,  but  seated  on  a  sumptuous 
couch,  and  presiding  over  the  court  of  pleasure,  at  one  of  his  great  balls, 
to  which  the  Consul's  acquaintance  with  the  family  procured  us  tickets. 
The  cards  of  invitation  are  issued  in  the  French  language,  in  the  name 
of  Madame  Dournoff",  a  sister  of  Demidoft",  and  are  made  general  for 
every  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday,  during  the  season.  We  at- 
tended on  the  evening  of  the  10th.  The  ball  was  held  in  the  theatre, 
which  is  a  handsome  building,  with  three  tiers  of  boxes,  lighted  by 
brilliant  chandeliers.  It  was  this  evening  decorated  witii  flowers. 
Spacious  as  it  is,  half  of  the  company  could  not  be  accommodated  on 
the  arena  for  dancing ;  and  every  part  of  the  room  was  crowded.  The 
(yount  is  somewhat  advanced,  and  quite  infirm.  He  was  comfortably 
seated,  with  his  legs  stretched  upon  a  stool.  He  has  no  wife.  Ma- 
dame Dournoflf  is  a  pretty  woman,  and  accomplished  in  her  manners. 
The  belle  of  the  evening  seemed  to  be  a  neice  of  the  Bishop  of  Osso- 
ry,  who  is  travelling  with  her  through  Italy.  VV^c  passed  them  at  Fo- 
Jigno.  on  our  return  from  Rome,  where  one  of  their  servants  was 


406       LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE. 

thrown  from  the  coach,  and  had  a  Hmb  broken.  Of  the  mixed  assem- 
bly here  gathered  together  from  all  quarters  of  the  world,  was  a  lady 
from  the  Crimea.  She  is  a  Tartar,  and  has  the  high  cheek  bones,  tawny 
complexion,  and  other  peculiarities  of  the  Chinese  face.  A  Grecian 
girl  was  also  present.  She  has  a  fair  complexion,  and  is  polished  in 
her  manners.  One  would  hardly  suspect  her  of  being  a  native  of  the 
East.  A  Greek  gentleman  had  features  more  strongly  marked.  He 
was  not  in  the  costume  of  his  country,  and  I  at  first  took  him  for  a 
West-Indian.  The  Bishop  of  Cyprus,  (an  appropriate  title,)  may  be 
added  to  the  group  of  oriental  characters. 

Among  the  persons  of  rank,  was  the  Dyke  of  Lucca,  (Infanta  of 
Spain  and  nephew  of  Ferdinand  VII.)  the  gayest  of  the  gay,  clapping 
his  hands  and  stamping,  in  some  of  the  old-fashioned  dances,  and  whirl- 
ing in  the  giddy  circle  of  the  waltz,  with  the  wife  of  the  Austrian  am- 
bassador. The  scandal  of  the  place  accuses  him  of  a  notorious  in- 
trigue with  her,  which  nearly  broke  the  heart  of  his  young  and  amia- 
ble wife.  During  the  life  of  his  mother  Maria  Louisa,  he  was  kept 
under  rigid  discipline  ;  but  since  her  death,  he  is  said  to  dip  deep  in 
dissipation.  He  often  sings  for  the  amusement  of  social  parties.  As 
for  the  Austrian  minister,  he  is  more  than  even  with  his  peccant  spouse. 
His  amours  are  innumerable.*  The  pubhc  functionaries  at  the  Tus- 
can court  were  at  the  ball,  glittering  with  stars  and  orders  of  nobility, 
except  the  English  ambassador,  who  was  in  a  plain  citizen's  dress. 
He  is  a  fine  looking  man,  frank  and  unassuming  in  his  deportment. 
He  has  some  claims  to  literary  reputation,  being  the  author  of  a  me- 
moir on  the  Campaigns  of  the  Peninsula,  in  which  he  served  in  the 
staff  of  Wellington,  On  this  occasion  he  forgot  both  his  sword  and 
pen,  and  joined  in  the  waltz  with  Signora  Turino,  an  elegant  Milanese 
lady. 

At  ]  o'clock  in  the  morning,  the  curtain  of  the  theatre  rose,  and 
disclosed  the  supper  table,  covered  with  splendid  plate,  and  laden 
with  bounties.  The  coup  d'oeil  was  brilliant.  It  is  said  the  Count 
is  obliged  to  use  gilt  wares,  instead  of  massive  gold  and  silver,  on 
account  of  the  frequent  thefts  that  have  been  committed  by  some  of  his 
guests,  who  have  whipped  spoons  and  forks  into  their  pockets,  to 
defray   the  expenses  of  dress   for  the  next  ball.     Once  or  twice  in 


*  The  Austrian  minisler  is  the  son  of  an  ultra-royalist  in  France,  who  took  a 
decided  part  against  the  Revolution,  and  was  obliged  to  leave  his  country.  The 
young  refugee  married  the  daughter  of  a  wealthy  banker  at  Copenhagen,  without 
the  consent  of  her  father,  and  has  since  found  favour  in  the  eyes  of  the  Austrian 
government.     He  is  said  to  be  a  man  of  little  talent  and  no  character. 


LETTERS  FKOM  EUROPE.         40T 

the  season,  a  general  gala  is  given  to  all  the  peasantry  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, when  the  Duke  of  Lucca  appears,  and  drinks  champaign 
with  his  subjects.  In  fact,  all  possible  ways  are  devised  of  spending 
money.  We  attended  the  theatre  several  evenings.  Between  the 
acts,  refreshments  consisting  of  ice-creams,  orgeat,  and  other  drinks, 
are  sent  round  to  all  the  boxes. 

We  left  the  gay  throng  at  table,  and  the  festivities  were  probably 
continued  for  the  greater  part  of  the  night,  as  is  usual  with  the  Italians, 
who  do  all  their  sleeping  during  the  heat  of  the  day.  Such  are  the 
high  sports  of  this  fashionable  and  voluptuous  retreat.  Dissipation, 
love,  and  pleasure  seem  to  be  the  sole  objects  of  pursuit.  All  have 
their  intrigues,  from  the  nobility  to  their  milliners.  Day  after  day  is 
lost  in  the  giddy  round,  which  continues  foi  several  months,  and  the 
generality  of  visitants  leave  in  worse  health  than  they  came. 

On  another  evening  we  visited  the  Casino,  at  the  Bagni  Caldi,  on 
the  Serchio  side.  In  crossing  the  hill  by  the  footpath  already  men- 
tioned, several  sedans  were  observed,  borne  by  peasants,  who  were 
toiling  up  the  steep,  with  some  fop,  in  his  silk  stockings  and  pumps, 
for  a  burden.  The  picture  is  extremely  painful  and  repulsive.  For 
t>ld  persons,  or  ilivahds  such  servitude  may  be  necessary  ;  but  I  would 
sooner  do  penance  with  monks,  by  walking  with  peas  in  my  shoes, 
than  be  thus  borne.  The  degradation  of  DemidolI"'s  slave  is  nothing 
to  this.  It,  however,  has  the  sanction  of  the  Pope,  whose  authority  is 
good  all  over  Italy. 

The  Casino  is  the  rendezvous  of  all  fashionable  people,  even  of  such 
as  do  not  obtain  admittance  to  the  balls  and  spectacles  of  the  Count. 
We  found  two  large  saloons  filled  with  ladies  and  gentlemen  in  full 
dresses.  One  apartment  is  appropriated  to  dancing  and  the  other  to 
gambling.  In  the  former,  quadrilles,  together  with  German  and  Rus- 
sian waltzes,  are  the  favourite  amusements.  The  gallery  effaces  was 
much  the  same  as  at  Demidoff's.  I  was  surprised  to  see  the  British 
minister  dancing  in  such  a  motley  assemblage,  embracing  jockeys  and 
blacklegs.*  The  Russian  waltz  is  a  rude  and  ungraceful  dance,  better 
suited  to  a  gymnasium  than  a  ball-room.  In  the  gaming  room,  tables 
were  spread  in  the  style  of  the  Palais  Royal.  French  customs, 
French  dresses,  and  the  French  language  prevail  at  the  Baths  of  Lucca. 


""  Half  ii  dozen  of  these  characters  were  jjointed  out  to  nif.  Some  of  them  are 
notorious.  Two  of  (hem  were  b:ini?hrd  lor  their  crin)es ;  and  one  has  been  in  Eng- 
land, where  he  used  to  gamble  with  the  King,  and  tlic  Duke  of  York.  A  spy  of 
the  Austrian  government,  who  is  here  in  an  official  capacity,  to  watch  the  move- 
ments of  the  asseniblage,  was  also  designated. 


408        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

Both  sexes  were  engaged  in  play,  and  the  saucy  rateaux  are  wielded 
with  as  much  dexterity,  as  at  Frefcati's.  Some  of  the  visitants,  who 
have  missed  an  opportunity  of  pocketing  plate  at  Demidoft^'s,  here 
make  up  the  deficit  in  their  funds.  We  remained  till  1  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  when  the  reign  of  pleasure  had  apparently  but  just  com- 
menced. 

Every  day  during  our  visit,  we  went  regularly  at  5  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon  to  the  Ponte  Serraglio,  to  witness  the  movements  of  the 
fashionable  world.  It  is  one  of  the  most  novel  and  peculiar  scenes  I 
have  found  in  any  country.  In  the  depth  of  these  mountains  and  soli- 
tudes, where  one  would  look  only  for  wild  beasts  and  banditti — in  a 
cluster  of  mean  houses,  scarcely  rising  to  the  dignity  of  a  hamlet — at 
a  bridge  not  surpassing  that  over  Goose  Creek  at  Washington,  the 
spectator  finds  all  the  bustle,  splendour,  and  gaiety  of  Hyde  Park  in 
London,  the  Boulevards  of  Paris,  or  the  Corso  at  Rome.  Here  dukes, 
nobles,  and  foreign  ministers,  in  court  dresses  glittering  with  stars  and 
the  badges  of  rank,  roll  by  in  their  coaches  and  six,  followed  by 
mounted  chasseurs  and  retinues  in  livery.  Here  too  no  inconsiderable 
share  of  the  beauty  of  Italy,  with  accessions  from  other  countries, 
may  be  seen,  dashing  along  the  dusty  course  in  carriages,  exhibiting 
feats  of  horsemanship  upon  the  saddle,  or  reposing  beneath  the  awn- 
ing in  front  of  a  humble  coffee-house,  the  Bottegone  of  the  Baths, 
where  hogsheads  of  ice-cream  and  orgeat  are  daily  vended. 

We  used  to  take  our  seats  a  little  apart  from  the  multitude,  in  com- 
pany with  friends  who  knew  almost  every  person  upon  the  fashionable 
exchange,  and  who  gave  a  sketch  of  the  character  of  each  as  he  pass- 
ed. In  some  cases  we  saw  bankrupt  nobles,  with  nothing  left  but  their 
titles,  labouring  to  keep  up  style  and  the  appearance  of  wealth  ;  while 
in  others,  newly  acquired  wealth  courted  famiharity,  and  sought  to  min- 
gle with  nobility.  Antiquated  belles  were  lookmg  out  for  fresh  ad- 
mirers, and  gamesters  for  new  subjects  to  fleece.  One  was  happy  in  a 
successful  intrigue  ;  and  another  felicitated  himself,  that  he  wore  a 
gold  chain  in  place  of  a  halter,  and  wcis  travelling  the  Corso,  instead  of 
the  road  to  the  gallows. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  9th,  we  had  a  charming  walk  of  two  or 
three  miles,  down  the  left  bank  of  the  Lima,  which  is  solitary,  shady, 
and  agreeable,  after  mingling  in  the  bustle  of  the  opposite  shore.  The 
government  has  opened  an  excellent  road,  bordered  by  trees  ;  but  it  is 
seldom  traversed  by  visitants,  who  prefer  show,  noise,  and  dust  to  a 
pure  air  and  rural  quiet. 

Having  witnessed  every  variety  of  scene,  from  high  to  low  life, 
which  the  Baths  of  Lucca  afford,  we  went  to  the  theatre  for  the  last 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         40y 

time,  took  leave  of  our  circle  of  Iriends,  and  made  preparations  to 
leave  on  the  12tli.  Our  style  of  travellings  on  the  return  was  very  dif- 
ferent from  that  of  Count  Dcmidoll".  The  jiress  of  company  had  put 
in  requisition  all  the  vetturini  and  decent  coaches.  Wo  were  there- 
fore compelled  to  charter  a  one  horse  car,  mounted  with  a  sort  of  cir- 
cular tub,  in  which  we  all  sat  facing  one  another,  with  a  harness  made 
of  ropes,  and  a  saddle  resembling  a  Gallipagos  tortoise.  But  the 
amusement  of  the  thing  counterbalanced  the  inconvenience  ;  and  we 
had  no  titles  of  nobility  to  be  impaired  by  a  neglect  of  style.  The 
'"hide  hoTQ  us  safe  to  the  place  of  destination — and  that  was  enough. 


VOL.  II. 


410         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

LETTER  LXXXIl. 

DEPARTURE  FROM  FLORENCE TRESPIANO PASSAGE  OF  THE  APENNINES 

SCENERY riETRA  MALA ARRIVAL  AT  BOLOGNA SKETCH  OF  THE 

CITY FOUNTAIN  OF  JOHN  M  BOLOGNA CHURCH  OF  ST.  PETRONIUS — • 

PALAZZO    PUBBLICO CATHEDRAL GALLERY SHRINE     OP    ST.   DOMI- 

NICK MONTE  NOLA UNH'^ERSITY — ^CAMPO  SANTO — CHIESA  DEL  SER- 

VI — THEATRE. 

September.,  1826. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  6th,  we  left  Florence  for  Bologna.  The 
Piazza  del  Duomo  was  covered  with  wares,  preparatory  to  tbe  feast 
of  the  Madonna,  and  a  great  Fair  on  the  8th.  Passing  under  the  no- 
ble arch  of  the  Porta  San  Gallo,  we  soon  began  to  ascend  the  acclivi- 
ties of  the  mountains,  whence  a  last  and  lingering  look  was  thrown 
back  into  the  Valdarno,  encircled  with  so  many  charms  of  nature,  em- 
beUished  by  so  many  monuments  of  the  arts,  and  endeared  to  us  by  so 
many  pleasing  associations.  The  vale  was  still  dressed  in  all  its  sum- 
mer pride  ;  and  our  parting  view  was  one  of  the  finest  that  had  been 
obtained  during  a  long  visit.  Waving  another  farewell  to  the  circle 
of  our  friends,  we  were  soon  lost  among  the  ridges  of  the  Apennines. 

Three  miles  from  Florence,  we  passed  the  great  cemetery  of  the  city, 
denominated  Trespiano.  The  enclosure  contains  eight  or  ten  acres, 
laid  out  in  a  perfect  square,  girt  with  a  substantial  wall,  and  covered 
with  a  beautiful  coat  of  verdure.  A  stone  pyramid,  surmounted  by  a 
cross,  rises  in  the  centre.  There  are  few  sepulchral  monuments.  A 
grove  of  cypress,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  road,  gives  to  the  scenery 
a  character  suited  to  a  depository  of  the  dead. 

The  hills  for  some  distance  are  of  moderate  elevation  and  clothed 
with  ohves.  Hedges  like  those  in  England,  filled  with  blackberries, 
line  the  road.  The  vales  are  fertile  and  rural,  abounding  in  vineyards, 
now  purple  with  the  ripening  vintage.  We  here  passed  another  of 
the  seats  of  the  Grand  Duke  of  Tuscany.  The  front  exhibits  the  face 
of  a  large  old-fashioned  clock,  and  looks  more  like  a  convent  than  a 
palace.  At  noon  the  vetturino  came  to  at  the  Albergo  Ghereto,  a 
dirty  little  tavern,  and  insisted  on  stopping  two  hours.  It  was  a  dull 
place,  and  recourse  was  had  to  our  books  for  amusement.  Onward 
we  continued  to  climb  ridge  after  ridge,  till  one  of  the  highest,  between 
Taliaferro  and  Maschere,  aftbrded  a  wide  and  glorious  view,  extend- 
ing to  the  plains  of  Pisa  and  Leghorn.  The  route  is  so  zig-zag,  that 
the  points  of  compass  had  been  lost,  and  a  bright  sun  could  hardly  re- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        411 

ooncile  us  to  the  position  of  those  cities.  Beyond  Maschere,  we  cross- 
ed a  noble  bridge  and  terrace  made  by  Napoleon.  It  is  on  the  same 
scale  with  all  his  public  works.  The  natural  growth  of  this  region  is 
oak,  chestnut,  and  pine,  interspersed  with  cypress.  There  are  few 
houses  and  few  inhabitants. 

Just  at  dusk  we  reached  tho  solitary  inn  of  Covigliaio,  standing  up- 
on the  summit  of  the  Apennines,  whicli  are  here  two  thousand  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Some  hard  stories  are  told  of  this  tavern 
by  tourists.*  We  found  it  filled  with  travellers,  who  were  at  table, 
drinking  wine,  and  exhibiting  a  scene  of  noisy  mirth.  The  hostess 
gave  us  a  good  supper  and  comfortable  lodgings.  On  looking  from 
the  windows  next  morning,  it  was  discovered  that  we  were  in  a  region 
of  much  wildness  and  grandeur.  The  mountains  rose  around  us  in 
rude  and  naked  masses,  often  shooting  up  into  fantastic  needles,  par- 
tially shrouded  in  mist.  Ruins  that  have  slidden  down,  strew  the 
slopes  at  their  bases.  The  formation  is  secondary,  and  the  rocks  arc 
friable.     A  pale  sunrise  gilded  their  sombre  peaks. 

We  left  at  an  early  hour.  A  shepherd  was  observed  unpenning  his 
fold,  with  his  dog  at  his  side.  The  general  aspect  of  the  country  is 
savage,  barren,  and  desolate.  At  Pietra  Mala,  the  vetturino  paused 
for  an  examination  of  our  passports  ;  and  I  ran  half  a  mile  to  look  at 


*  •'  One  inexplicable  gang  of  ruffjaiis  had  long  been  felt,  but  could  not  be  fol- 
lowed, on  the  road  between  Florence  and  Bologna.  Travellers  daily  disappeared, 
and  could  never  be  traced  liy  their  spoils.  Two  Pi.-ans  of  my  acquaintance,''- 
passing  through  Pietra  Mala,  put  up  at  a  solitary  inn  on  tlie  Apennines,  and  asked 
for  beds.  The  landlady  told  them  that  she  must  send  two  miles  olf  to  borrow 
sheets  of  the  curate.  A  desolate  house  and  a  wretched  supper,  set  in  opposition 
with  diamond  rings  on  the  coarse  fingers  of  their  hostess,  alarmed  her  guests,  who 
had  heard  of  the  invisible  murders  committed  on  this  road.  They  communicated 
their  suspicion  to  the  Vetturino,  and  having  concerted  their  plan,  they  desired 
liim,  in  the  landlady's  hearing,  to  call  them  up  at  five  in  the  morning,  and  retired 
to  bed.  There  they  kept  a  fearful  watch  until  all  were  asleep,  when  stealing 
from  their  beds,  they  set  oil'  before  raidniglit,  and  thus  escaped  alive  from  those 
dreadful  confines. 

"  Not  long  afterward,  a  member  of  tho  gang  being  taken,  made  a  discovery  of 
the  rest.  All  the  banditti  were  surprised  while  feasting  at  the  parsonage,  and 
their  horrible  mystery  was  at  length  revealed.  It  was  the  law  of  their  society  to 
murder  all  the  passengers  they  stojiped,  to  kill  and  bury  the  horses,  burn  the  car- 
riages and  baggage,  reserving  only  the  money,  jewels,  and  watches,  Biondi,  the 
curate,  was  their  captain ;  the  mistress  of  the  inn  was  their  accomplice,  and,  in 
the  manner  just  mentioned,  she  sent  him  notice  of  every  traveller  that  lodged  at 
her  house. — Forfi/tlCs  Remarks  on  Ilalij. 

"^  Mr.  Dodsworth  and  Signora  Palriarchi. 


413        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

the  traces  of  a  volcano,  where  blue  lambent  flames  have  at  certain  pe- 
rio.ds  been  seen  issuing  from  the  surface.  The  craters,  or  more  pro- 
perly circular  level  beds  of  volcanic  substances,  are  three  in  number, 
of  small  dimensions,  and  exhibiting  at  present  neither  flame  nor  heat. 
I  collected  several  specimens  of  the  stones,  whicli  appear  to  be  par- 
tially calcined,  are  of  a  reddish  bnn,  and  have  a  strong  vitriolic  smell. 

As  my  visit  had  been  prolonged  beyond  what  suited  the  convenience 
of  the  vetturino,  he  had  gone  on  leaving  me  to  overtake  him  in  climb- 
ing the  hills.  Feeling  for  my  watch,  to  note  the  time  of  my  absence, 
I  found  that  was  missing  as  well  as  the  coach,  and  that  it  had  been  left 
under  my  pillow,  at  the  little  tavern  three  and  a  half  miles  back.  As 
travellers  have  told  so  many  frightful  tales  of  this  inn,  and  as  our  doors 
were  without  fastenings,  a  degree  of  precaution  was  used,  which  had 
seldom  or  never  before  been  resorted  to,  and  which  in  this  instance 
led  to  a  vexatious  accident. 

Here  was  a  fine  dilemma.  By  going  forward,  T  stood  a  chance 
to  lose  my  watch  ;  by  returning  for  it,  I  should  be  left  upon  the  top 
of  the  Apennines.  At  length  a  peasant  was  despatched  on  horseback 
to  the  tavern,  with  directions  to  follow,  till  he  overtook  me  ;  while  I 
set  out  in  pursuit  of  the  vetturino.  Fortunately  it  was  a  gusty  day, 
and  on  reaching  a  gorge  in  the  mountains,  where  a  dozen  coaches  had 
been  capsized  by  the  wind,  he  stopped  short,  and  refused  to  pass  till 
the  squall  was  over.  I  met  in  my  walk  upon  the  storm-beaten  hills, 
a  solitary  Greek  on  foot,  in  his  national  costume,  which  was  tattered 
and  presented  but  too  striking  an  image  of  his  unfortunate  country. 
He  laid  his  hand  upon  his  breast,  and  saluted  me  in  passing.  Two 
peasants,  who  looked  quite  too  much  like  banditti,  issued  from  a  by- 
path, and  asked  me  some  indifferent  questions  about  the  road. 

After  a  walk  of  four  miles,  I  overtook  the  carriage  at  the  Dogana,  on 
the  confines  of  the  Papal  State,  where  the  keys  of  St.  Peter  and  the 
triple  crown  were  again  seen  over  the  door.  The  morning  furnished 
a  chapter  of  accidents.  My  companion  in  stepping  fi-om  the  coach 
had  wrenched  his  ankle,  and  was  unable  to  walk.  All  the  brandy  and 
camphor  of  the  Locanda  della  Stella,  as  well  as  the  kind  services  of  the 
hostess,  were  put  in  requisition.  In  the  mean  time,  I  began  to  give 
up  the  peasant  and  my  watch  for  lost,  when  at  last  the  old  mountaineer, 
in  his  heavy  shoes,  blue  stockings,  and  white  cap,  came  trotting  up 
with  the  unusual  appendage  of  a  watch  in  his  pocket.  He  was  libe- 
rally rewarded  for  his  fideUty.  I  thanked  him,  and  told  him  he  was 
an  honest  man,  to  which  he  rephed — "  si,  signore,  sono  honesto,  ma 
molto  povero" — yes,  I  am  honest,  but  very  poor.  He  shared  with  us 
an  omelet  and  a  glass  of  red  wine,  and  then  kissing  our  hands,  returned 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        413 

'o  liis  sheep-fold  or  his  rude  hut  upon  tlie  mountains,  with  an  approving- 
conscience.  '  1  have  uniformly  found  tlic  lower  classes  in  Italy  honest, 
civil,  and  kind-hearted.  Trunks,  books,  clothing,  and  other  articles 
have  daily  been  exposed  without  detriment  ;  and  only  one  instance  of 
incivility  is  remembered.  At  a  custom-house  near  Leghorn,  a  lad  beset 
us  for  a  fee.  On  being  repulsed,  he  exclaimed,  "  Iddio  retarda  vostro 
viaggio" — God  impede  your  journey  !  < 

From  this  point,  wc  continued  to  descend  the  mountains,  which 
often  rise  in  blei.k  and  barren  ridges  of  sand.  A  high  wind,  which 
appeared  to  roll  over  in  torrents  from  vale  to  vale,  often  involved  us  in 
tempests  of  dust.  Some  of  the  loftier  swells  presented  a  wide  view 
into  the  vale  of  the  Po,  and  the  plains  stretching  to  the  Adriatic.  As 
the  atmosphere  was  not  clear,  the  sea  was  invisible.  At  4  o"clock 
we  reached  the  foot  of  the  hills,  and  came  to  the  banks  of  the  Reno, 
the  bed  of  a  mountain  torrent,  with  a  broad  sandy  channel,  and  a 
scanty  rill  of  water.  The  vales  here  again  become  fertile,  and  the 
loaded  vineyards  appeared  in  all  their  glory.  ' 

Passing  the  magnificent  seat  of  Cardinal  Ferrara  and  the  splendid 
suburbs  of  Bologna,  we  entered  its  gates,  under  the  favourable  light  of 
a  clear  sunset,  and  saw  no  reason  to  dissent  from  Napoleon's  partiality, 
who  used  to  call  it,  "  mia  cara  citta  di  Bologna."  The  streets  are 
broad,  neatly  paved,  and  clean  ;  uniformly  lined  with  arcades  over  the 
side-walks,  and  with  ranges  of  stately  buildings,  which  have  a  light  and 
cheertUl  appearance,  in  comparison  with  the  sombre  castles  of  Flo- 
rence. There  is  also  a  show  of  considerable  magnificence  in  the 
churches  and  other  public  edifices.  The  two  words  "  my  dear,"  in 
plain  Enghsh,  but  not  addressed  to  us,  were  the  first  which  met  our  ears. 
Excellent  accommodations  were  obtained  at  ihe  Pellegrino.  While 
at  supper,  our  arrival  was  welcomed  by  a  serenade  from  the  "  Ciechi," 
a  band  of  blind  musicians,  who  salute  all  new  comers,  with  the  ex- 
pectation of  a  fee.  In  one  or  two  instances,  odes  of  congratulation 
were  brought  to  us,  which  had  probably  been  previously  addressed  to 
fifty  other  travellers,  the  name  only  being  changed. 

The  next  day  I  rambled  over  the  city  alone,  as  my  friend  was  too 
lame  to  go  out.  On  my  way  to  the  Piazza  del  Gigante,  two  sturdy 
beggars  beset  me  opposite  the  prison,  and  at  the  same  moment,  the 
wretched  inmates  of  the  cells  thrust  out  their  bronze  arms  through 
the  grates,  with  the  most  furious  and  importunate  cries.  Such  an 
image  was  less  prepossessing,  than  the  splendid  arcades  and  gilded 
domes,  which  spread  before  me.  At  the  Place  of  the  Giant,  I  exa- 
mined the  celebrated  Fountain,  embellished  by  the  chisel  of  John  di 
Bologna  :  it  appeared  to  mc  unworthy  of  the  eulogies,  which  have 


414         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

been  lavished  upon  it  by  others.  The  group  consists  of  a  colossal  sta- 
tue of  Neptune,  surrounded  by  four  Sea-nymphs,  and  as  many  Cu- 
pids playing  with  dolphins.  In  the  attitude,  port,  and  bearing  of  the 
principal  figure,  there  is  much  dignity,  much  that  bespeaks  and  be- 
comes the  god.  But  he  is  figuratively  as  well  as  literally  accompanied 
by  a  scaly  brood.  The  mermaids  press  their  exuberant  breasts  in 
vain  ;  for  they  yield  neither  milk  nor  water.  Their  postures  are  horri- 
ble ;  and  their  extremities  terminate  in  fishes.  They  are  in  all  re- 
spects monsters.  The  Cupids  are  in  better  taste  ;  but  the  bronze 
Mercury,  in  the  Florentine  Gallery,  by  the  same  artist,  is  worth  a  hun- 
dred such  monuments.  Scanty  rills  spirt  from  the  Fountain,  which  is 
contemptible  in  comparison  with  those  of  Rome. 

The  Square  of  the  Giant,  so  named  from  the  statue  of  Neptune,  is 
surrounded  by  the  Palazzo  Pubblico,  the  Palazzo  Vechio,  and  the 
church  of  St.  Petronius — all  of  brick,  ornamented  with  pillars  and 
tracery,  venerable  in  aspect,  but  void  of  architectural  grandeur.  My 
first  visit  was  to  the  church.  Its  front  is  unfinished,  and  the  holes  are 
left  in  which  the  scaflx)lding  was  erected.  The  lower  part  is  encased 
with  marble.  It  is  of  the  Gothic  order.  The  interior  is  finished,  and 
exhibits  the  usual  degree  of  Italian  splendour.  Some  of  the  chapels 
are  rich  and  elegant.  The  walls  were  hung  with  notices  of  the  Feast 
of  the  Madonna,  in  commemoration  of  her  nativity,  which  continues 
for  three  days.  Groups  of  people  were  kneeling  in  the  aisles.  The 
canopy  of  the  high  altar  is  superb,  resting  on  rich  columns,  and  sur- 
mounted by  angels  and  warriors  in  white  marble.  Under  the  altar  is  a 
vault,  grated  in  front  and  dimly  lighted  by  lamps,  in  which  the  bloody 
corse  of  the  Saviour  is  seen  stretched  out  upon  a  couch.  A  circle  of 
poor  people  w'ere  looking  in,  saying  their  prayers.  Banners  are  sus- 
pended round  the  choir,  bearing  the  arms  of  difierent  families,  and  in- 
scriptions requesting  prayers  for  their  departed  spirits. 

The  pavement  exhibits  the  celebrated  meridian  of  Cellini,  two  hun- 
dred feet'  in  length,  and  designating  the  progress  of  the  sun  through 
the  zodiac.  On  one  side,  the  ascending,  and  on  the  other,  the  descend- 
ing signs  are  delineated.  The  sun  is  admitted  through  a  hole  in  the 
roof,  eighty  feet  from  the  floor,  and  falls  upon  the  point  corresponding 
■U'ith  the  day  and  month.  At  each  end  of  the  line,  handsome  monu- 
ments are  erected  against  the  wall,  bearing  inscriptions  explanatory  of 
the  work,  and  complimentary  to  the  genius  of  the  artist.  Near  by 
stands  a  clock  with  two  faces,  pointing  out  with  its  double  hands  the 
true  and  the  solar  time.  Petronius,  to  whom  the  church  is  dedicated, 
seems  to  have  been  a  clever  saint,  who  did  much  for  Bologna,  and  de- 
served the  honours  which  are  paid  to  his  memory.     Cliarles  V.  of 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         415 

Tuscany  was  crowned  in  this  church  by  the  Pope  ;  and  here  the  Coun- 
cil of  Trent  held  one  of  its  sessions. 

The  Palazzo  Vcchio  is  a  very  old  building,  with  a  fantastic  tower 
rising  in  the  centre.  It  seems  once  to  have  been  a  castle  or  fortress  • 
but  is  now  remarkable  for  little  else  than  its  antiquity.  The  Palazzo 
Pubblico  is  dedicated  to  St.  Petronius,  the  patron  of  the  city ;  and  an  im- 
age of  the  Pope,  who  has  been  less  a  benefactor,  guards  the  entrance. 
At  the  door,  I  inquired  of  a  gentleman  the  way  to  the  belfry.  He 
conducted  me  up  a  flight  of  Bramante's  stairs,  and  through  halls  ap- 
propriated to  the  Governor,  Police,  and  other  officers.  One  of  the 
rooms  contains  a  good  statue  of  Hercules  in  bronze.  Ascending  to 
the  top  of  the  Palace,  we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  city  and  its  environs. 
Bologna  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Apennines,  which  stretch  in  long 
lines  from  north  to  south,  beyond  the  reach  of  vision.  On  all  other 
sides,  a  level  plain,  rich  and  verdant,  extends  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach. 
Glimpses  of  the  Friuli  mountains,  beyond  Verona,  are  discernible. 
The  hills  skirting  the  western  suburbs  are  covered  with  convents,  and 
other  buildings.  On  the  very  top  of  an  eminence  stands  the  church 
of  St.  Luca,  with  a  chain  of  arcades,  three  miles  in  length,  connect- 
ing it  with  the  city.  It  is  a  shrine  of  great  sanctity,  to  which  pilgrim- 
ages are  frequently  performed.  The  expenses  of  the  structure  and  its 
embellishments  were  defrayed  by  the  voluntary  contributions  of  the 
people. 

Bologna  is  two  miles  in  length  and  one  in  breadth,  containing 
75,000  inhabitants.  The  buildings  are  nearly  all  of  brick,  with  red 
tiled  roofs.  Numerous  steeples  and  towers  give  an  air  of  magnificence 
to  the  city.  The  arcades  form  the  most  peculiar  feature,  and  are  not 
less  conducive  to  elegance  than  comfort,  being  often  supported  by 
stately  marble  columns.  Sometimes  awnings  are  hung  from  arch  to 
arch,  so  as  entirely  to  exclude  the  sun,  and  produce  a  covered  way. 
The  people  are  active,  bustling,  and  gay  ;  differing  in  dress  and  man- 
ners from  their  neighbours  ;  and  presenting  new  shades  of  colour  in 
the  mixed  moral  mosaic,  which  the  various  petty  states  of  Italy  com- 
pose. 

My  volunteer  cicerone  accompanied  me  to  the  Cathedral,  which  is 
an  immense  pile.  Its  architecture  has  been  severely  censured.  The 
interior  is  lofty  and  splendid.  One  of  the  frescos  was  painted  by 
Guido,  and  another  is  the  last  work  of  Lodovico  Caracci.  We  went 
thence  to  the  church  of  St.  Bartholemew.  A  priest  was  administer- 
ing the  sacrament  to  a  group  of  females  kneeling  at  the  altar.  Ho 
took  the  wafer  between  his  fingers  and  put  it  into  their  mouths,  utter- 
ing a  benediction  upon  each.     We  retreated,  without  breaking  in  upon 


416         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

the  solemn  rite.  In  front  of  the  church  rise  the  two  towers  of  Asinelli 
and  Gasenda.  The  former  is  three  hundred  and  twenty-seven  feet  in 
height,  built  of  brick  and  topped  with  a  cupola.  It  is  the  most  con- 
spicuous object  in  the  city.  Tlie  other  tower  leans  like  that  of  Pisa. 
It  is  alluded  to  by  Dante.  The  Pope  held  a  council  in  one  of  its 
chambers. 

My  new  acquaintance  took  me  to  the  Gallery,  which  is  an  extensive 
estabUshment,  embracing  schools  for  drawing,  architecture,  statuary, 
and  painting,  like  those  in  the  Royal  Academy  at  Florence.  In  the 
rear  spreads  a  large  Botanic  Garden,  which  forms  an  agreeable  appen- 
dage. The  Gallery  itself  is  small,  but  one  of  the  most  select  in  Italy, 
comprising  the  choicest  pictures  of  the  Bolognese  School.  Lodovico, 
Annibale,  and  Augostino  Caracci,  Guido,  Domenichino,  Albano,  and 
Fontana,  were  all  natives  of  this  city,  and  form  a  constellation  of  ge- 
nius, which  few  other  schools  can  boast.  Their  countrymen  cherish 
their  works  with  a  spirit  of  nationality,  which  is  highly  creditable  to 
their  taste  and  patriotism. 

The  collection  commences  with  old  pictures,  illustrating  the  history 
of  the  art.  In  the  ante-chamber  is  a  fine  portrait  of  a  bishop,  by 
Guido.  The  two  principal  rooms  contain  so  many  admirable  produc- 
tions, that  I  hardly  know  which  to  select  for  notice.  One  of  the  best 
is  the  Crucifixion,  by  Guido.  It  is  characterized  by  simplicity  and 
grandeur.  There  are  only  three  figures — the  Saviour  and  two  Disci- 
ples. The  Murder  of  the  Innocents,  by  the  same  artist,  is  reckoned 
a  master-piece  ;  but  the  subject  is  so  horrible,  that  I  did  not  examine 
it  with  much  attention.  Domenichino  has  one  or  two,  which  are  liable 
to  the  same  objection.  In  the  Martyrdom  of  St.  Agnes,  the  knife  is 
plunged  up  to  the  hih  in  her  bosom.  Grandeur  prevails  over  horror  in 
his  Martyrdom  of  Peter.  But  the  Conversion  of  St.  Paul  is  in  my 
opinion  his  finest  picture  in  this  collection.  The  persecutor  is  thrown 
from  his  horse  ;  and  the  whole  group  are  startled  at  the  light  "  above 
the  brightness  of  the  sun."  Wonder  and  fear  are  forcibly  depicted  in 
every  countenance. 

Raphael's  St.  Cecilia  is  as  divine  in  person,  as  she  was  in  voice  j 
and  in  this  instance,  his  pencil  both  "  raised  a  mortal  to  the  skies,"  and 
"  drew  an  angel  down."  Lodovico  Caracci  has  attempted  a  Transfi- 
guration. It  is  a  difficult  and  dangerous  subject.  Yet  one  looks  with 
partiality  on  every  production  of  this  artist,  for  his  kindness  in  educa- 
ting his  two  illustrious  nephews.  His  two  pupils  and  liimself  have 
sportively  tried  their  skill,  by  way  of  rivalry,  on  the  same  subject. 
Annibale  Caracci  is  generally  thought  to  have  possessed  the  most 
talent.     My  Bolognese  guide  seemed   familiar  with  the  history  of 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        417 

these  artists,  and  related  some  anecdotes,  which  were  new  to  me. 
Guido  was  a  notorious  gamester  and  fond  of  the  bottle.  Towards  the 
close  of  his  life,  he  became  careless  of  his  reputation. 

In  returning  from  the  Gallery,  we  passed  under  a  triumphal  arch, 
erected  in  honour  of  the  birth-day  of  the  Madonna.  It  was  hung  with 
crimson  tapestry,  and  furnished  with  silver  candlesticks,  preparatory 
to  an  illumination  in  the  evening.  We  went  to  the  church  of  St.  Do- 
mmick,  to  see  the  shrine  of  its  patron,  who  was  celebrated  not  less  for 
liis  military  achievements  than  for  his  sanctity.  His  tomb  is  a  proud 
pile  of  marble.  The  sarcophagus  is  supposed  to  contain  his  dust  ; 
but  the  scepticism  of  the  French  has  thrown  some  doubts  over  this 
subject.  In  front  of  the  shrine  is  a  sniall  statue  of  a  cherub,  kneeling 
and  holding  a  candlestick.  It  is  one  of  Michael  Angclo's  very  best 
pieces,  and  worth  all  the  other  sculpture  about  the  shrine,  rich  as  it  is. 
A  convent  for  Dominicans  is  attached  to  the  church.  It  has  at  pre- 
sent only  eleven  inmates,  whose  grated  cells  look  like  prisons.  They 
were  converted  into  barracks  by  the  French.  About  this  pile  of 
buildings,  are  several  insulated  Gothic  shrines,  with  sarcophagi  cradled 
in  the  open  air. 

^  Here  the  intelligent  and  kind-hearted  gentleman,  who  gratuitously 
devoted  nearly  the  whole  day  to  an  entire  stranger,  took  leave  of  me. 
He  said  he  belonged  to  the  Police.     I  continued  my  rambles  over  the 
city.     Upon  the  walls,  in  some  of  the  public  squares,  sonnets  were 
posted  up,  with  the  authors'  names  attached  to  tliem,  congratulating 
persons  on  their  recent  nuptials.     One  of  them  was  of  a  very  different 
character,  containing  fulsome  panegyrics  on  a  noble  nun,  who  had  just 
taken  the  veil.     A  play-bill  sometimes  divided  these  productions  of  the 
Italian  muse.     My  attention  was   attracted  to  an    immense  crowd 
collected  in  one  of  the  streets,  near  the  walls,  of  the  city.     On  ap- 
proachmg,  I  found  a  popular  preacher  mounted  upon  a  stage,  beneath 
the  arcades  of  a  church,  walking  to  and  fro,  and  raving  like  a  madman. 
In  the  mean  time,  a  dozen  men  were  passing  among  the  prostrate 
multitude,  shaking  the  money  in  their  hats  and  making  collections.    >^ 
At  evening  I  walked  to  Monte  Nola,  the  Public  Garden.     It  is  both 
a  promenade  and  drive,  laid  out  and  planted  with  trees  by  order  of  Na- 
poleon.    The  Corso  is  cirfcular,  not  more  than  half  or  three-quarters 
of  a  mile  in  circumference,  around  which  the  coaches  chase  one  another, 
somewhat  in  the  style  of  the  ancient  chariot  races.     The  walks  are 
extensive,  beautifully  shaded,  and  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the 
mountains  on  one  side,  and  the  vale  of  the  Po,  on  the  other.     Great 
numbers  of  both  sexes  were  out  on  the  Festa  of  the  Madonna.     The 
women  are  handsome — tall,  graceful,  and  genteel,  wearing  white  reils 
VOL.  II.  53 


418        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE 

and  turbans,  without  hats,  even  in  public.     They  have  cheerful  faces^ 
and  are  remarkably  gay  and  animated  in  their  manners. 

Two  fountains  refresh  the  Garden,  about  which  seats  are  extended 
in  the  shade.  On  the  bank  of  the  Reno,  which  murmurs  by,  there  is  a 
modern  gymnasium,  ornamented  with  twenty  Corinthian  pillars.  It 
is  appropriated  to  wrestling,  playing  ball,  and  other  athletic  exercises, 
in  which  the  youth  were  engaged.  Few  carriages  appeared  on  the 
parade,  and  the  attempts  at  style  were  meagre,  in  comparison  with 
Rome,  Naples,  or  Florence.  Many  of  the  higher  classes  were  in  the 
country,  to  which  the  Bolognese  are  much  more  partial  than  the  other, 
Italians.  In  returning  to  the  hotel,  I  called  at  the  Bottegone  of  the 
city.  It  was  full  of  people,  even  to  the  arcades  in  front  of  the  coffee- 
house. Ice-creams  are  eaten  out  of  tumblers  ;  and  immense  quanti- 
ties are  taken  to  private  houses  ;  an  indication  that  the  ladies  are  more 
retired  and  domestic  in  their  habits,  than  in  other  cities.  I  saw  per- 
haps a  dozen  servants  come  in,  and  return  loaded  with  ices  of  all  co- 
lours. Thus  ended  the  fatigues  and  pleasures  of  the  first  day,  giving 
me  a  favourable  impression  of  Bologna. 

Early  next  morning  we  resumed  an  examination  of  the  town,  revisit- 
ing the  Piazza  del  Gigante,  the  Gallery,  and  most  of  the  localities, 
which  have  already  been  described,  together  with  many  that  were  new 
to  me.  An  intelligent  gentleman  accompanied  us  through  the  various 
departments  of  the  University.  It  is  an  extensive  pile  of  buildings, 
furnished  with  appurtenances  and  accommodations,  which  are  suited 
to  what  has  been  one  of  the  greatest  schools  in  the  world.  The  philo- 
sophical and  chemical  apparatus  is  very  complete.  Our  polite  and 
obliging  guide,  who  appeared  to  be  an  officer  in  the  institution,  spoke 
of  Franklin,  Hare,  and  Priestly  in  terms  of  high  respect.  A  superb 
monument  has  been  erected  to  the  memory  of  Galvani,  a  native  of  this 
city,  and  the  discoverer  of  the  new  science  to  which  he  has  given 
name. 

The  cabinets  of  geology,  mineralogy,  and  natural  history  are  all  well 
filled,  and  the  articles  in  an  excellent  state  of  preservation.  An  ex- 
tensive anatomical  museum,  which  is  one  of  the  oldest  in  Europe,  and 
little  inferior  to  that  of  Florence,  contains  an  infinite  variety  of  prepa- 
rations, partly  of  real  subjects,  and  partly  in  wax.  We  were  extremely 
anxious  to  see  that  philological  prodigy.  Professor  Mezzofanti,*  who 


*  Dr.  Valentin,  an  intelligent  French  traveller,  who  made  the  tour  of  Italy  in 
1820 — '24,  speaks  thus  of  the  learned  Professor: 

"  L'abbe  Mezzofanti,  de  petite  stature,  mais  savant  tres-distingu6,  et  professeur 
de  langues  orientales  a  I'universite,  en  est  le  directeur,     Cet  hoinme  etonnant  et 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        419 

1.-;  said  to  understand  forty-two  languages.  Our  cicerone  reduced  tho 
number  to  thirty,  two  more  than  Sir  William  Jones  was  acquainted 
with  ;  and  there  is  reason  to  believe,  that  even  after  this  deduction,  the 
depth  of  his  erudition  has  been  somewhat  exaggerated,  though  it  is 
doubtless  wonderful.  Tlie  Italians  are  a  little  prone  to  deal  in  super- 
latives. Mezzoft^ti  is  now  at  the  age  of  forty-two.  He  was  out  of 
town  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  and  deprived  us  of  the  pleasure  of  looking 
at  the  University  Library,  of  which  he  has  charge. 

The  most  eminent  man  in  the  medical  school,  and  the  first  physician 
in  Italy,  is  Dr.  Tommasini,  professor  of  clinical  medicine.  A  friend 
at  Florence  had  given  us  letters  to  him ;  but  he  had  unfortunately  gone 
to  Naples,  a  distance  of  four  or  five  hundred  miles,  on  a  professional 
visit  to  a  patient  of  distinction,  who  died  before  his  arrival.  He  is  a 
native  of  Modena,  and  now  at  the  age  of  about  forty.  Wc  saw  the 
portraits  of  two  female  profe.ssors  in  the  hall.  They  have  good  faces, 
and  were  eminent  in  their  departments,  though  in  my  opinion  out  of 
their  proper  spheres.  Of  this  the  Bolognese  appear  to  be  sensible  ; 
for  the  chairs  of  these  fair  lecturers  on  the  most  indelicate  of  all  sub- 
jects, are  now  vacant,  and  will  probably  never  again  be  filled  by  the 
same  sex.*  There  are  forty  professorships  in  tiie  University,  and  tho 
number  of  students  is  seven  or  eight  hundred. 

At  the  Zampieri  Palace,  we  found  five  rooms  filled  with  pictures 
of  no  great  celebrity,  though  some  of  tliem  are  good  in  their  way. 
By  far  the  most  interesting  article  is  the  original  sketch  of  Leonardo 
da  Vinci's  great  fresco  of  the  Last  Supper,  on  the  walls  of  a  convent 
at  Milan.  It  is  on  a  small  scale,  differing  in  some  points  from  the 
immortal  work,  as  it  was  finally  completed. 

The  afternoon  was  occupied  in  an  excursion  to  the  Certosa  or 
Campo  Santo,  at  the  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  half  from  town,  in  the 
western  suburbs.  It  is  approached  by  a  fine  avenue,  bordered  by 
fields,  gardens,  and  trees,  and  its  situation  is  extremely  rural.  It  was 
formerly  a  large  convent,  with  a  chapel  attached  to  it.  The  grounds, 
courts  and  cloisters  have  been  converted  into  cemeteries,  crowded 


modeste,  avec  lequel  nous  avons  passe  une  soirtie,  dans  une  reunion  chez  le  comte 
de  Malvezi,  en  lO'SO,  oonnait  vingt  hmgues,  et  en  parle  le  plus  grand  nombre ;  son 
erudition  est  prodigieuse." 

*  The  French  still  keep  up  the  custom,  and  some  of  the  first  lectures,  in  the 
department  alluded  to,  are  given  by  females,  with  experiments  on  all  kinds  of 
subjects,  real  and  artificial,  dead  and  alive.  1  accompanied  a  medical  friend  to 
one  of  them,  and  heard  an  elderly  woman  of  great  volubility,  deliver  her  instruc- 
tions to  a  class  of  students.  Such  exercises  may  no  doubt  be  useful,  but  thev  are 
not  vei-y  attractive. 


4:20  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

with  graves  and  sepulchral  monuments,  many  of  \^  hich  are  stately 
piles  of  marble  in  the  first  style  of  elegance.  We  could  not  find  many 
distinguished  tombs,  prolific  as  Bologna  has  been  in  men  of  genius. . 
It  was  not,  however,  opened  till  1801,  and  in  a  period  of  twenty-five 
years,  seventy-five  thousand  persons  have  been  here  deposited  ;  a 
number  equal  to  the  whole  population  of  the  city.  From  this  fact  it 
may  be  inferred,  that  a  generation  at  Bologna  lasts  a  quarter  of  a 
century,  five  or  six  years  less  than  the  ordinary  estimate  in  England. 

A  striking  peculiarity  was  observed  in  the  disposition  of  the  graves. 
The  dead  are  assorted  according  to  their  ages.  There  is  one  com- 
partment for  children  ;  another  for  female  adults  ;  a  third  for  male 
adults ;  and  a  fourth  for  persons  beyond  a  certain  age.  Prices  of 
sepulture  vary  as  in  Pere  la  Chaise.  The  grounds  are  a  mile  and  a 
half  in  circuit,  substantially  enclosed,  and  prettily  shaded  with  pyra- 
mids of  cypress.  Several  grave-diggers  were  at  work  in  opening 
tombs  and  vaults,  whose  voices  alone  broke  the  profound  quiet,  which 
reigns  through  the  cemetery.  The  church  is  still  kept  up,  in  which 
the  last  sad  offices  are  performed.  About  the  walls  are  suspended 
many  spoils  and  trophies,  taken  from  the  Turks  at  Constantinople, 
Tunis,  and  Algiers.  Among  the  rest  are  chains,  in  which  cap- 
tives are  bound.  They  are  about  four  feet  in  length,  with  a  fetlock 
at  one  end,  and  a  ring  at  the  other.  In  the  cells  of  the  church  is  an 
extensive  assortment  of  rude  but  rare  Madonnas,  exhibiting  the  miracu- 
lous forms  in  which  the  Virgin  appeared  at  different  and  remote  places, 
in  France,  Spain,  Italy  and  the  East. 

At.  evening  we  visited  the  Chiesa  del  Servi,  which  is  the  popular 
church  at  Bologna,  and  the  scene  of  half  of  the  intrigues  in  the  city. 
Preparations  were  making  for  the  last  and  great  day  of  the  Feast  of 
the  Madonna,  to  take  place  on  the  morrow.  It  is  a  long  low  edifice, 
with  the  high  altar  nearly  in  the  centre.  The  air  was  suffocating 
from  the  smoke  of  censers  and  tapers,  as  well  as  from  the  garlic  of 
the  crowd,  which  thronged  the  aisles.  Our  attention  was  arrested  by 
a  group,  bending  at  a  shrine  of  peculiar  sanctity,  on  one  side  of  the 
church.  The  faces  of  the  Virgin  and  her  child  were  of  a  black  glossy 
colour,  besmeared  with  grease.  To  prevent  any  farther  deformities 
of  the  frightful  images,  they  had  been  encased  in  glass,  so  as  to  be 
seen  but  not  caressed.  Three  lamps  were  burning  in  front.  The 
central  one  was  open,  into  which  the  devotees  dipped  their  fingers, 
and  daubed  their  foreheads  with  the  holy  unction.  Sometimes  little 
flowers  or  sprigs  were  substituted,  immersed  in  oil,  rubbed  as  near 
the  faces  of  the  idols  as  possible,  and  then  kissed  with  fervour  by  the 
prostrate  votaries.     Armed  soldiers  were  stationed  before  the  altars 


LETTERS  FIIOM   EUROPE.  421 

to  keep  tlic  peace  in  the  general  rush  to  the  shrines.  At  8  o'clock 
an  officer  of  the  guard,  wearing  his  sword,  cocked  hat,  and  cane, 
bustled  through  the  aisles,  driving  the  multitude  from  their  prayers 
and  from  the  chu^i,  while  they  were  in  the  very  act  of  kneeling. 
This  scene  was  one  of  tiie  most  singular,  as  well  as  the  most  strongly 
marked  by  abject  superstition  and  unresisted  tyranny,  that  I  witnessed 
in  the  whole  course  of  my  tour  through  Italy,  not  excepting  the  idola- 
trous worship  in  St.  Peter's. 

After  the  show  was  over  at  the  church,  we  went  to  a  more  digni- 
fied spectacle  at  the  Teatro  del  Corso.  On  our  way  thither,  fifteen 
barbers'  shops,  with  the  sign  of  tlic  pewter  basin,  were  counted  by 
way  of  curiosity.  They  were  all  lighted  up,  and  filled  with  persons 
under  the  razor  ;  an  indication  that  the  Bolognese  are  a  cleanly  peo- 
ple. The  theatre  is  spacious  and  neat ;  and  the  boxes  exhibited  a 
splendid  circle  of  beauty,  whose  white  head-dresses  gave  to  their 
complexions  the  delicacy  of  nuns  ;  though  they  are  said  in  other 
respects  not  to  bear  a  striking  resemblance  to  the  holy  sisterhood. 
We  saw  the  dramatic  corps  belonging  to  Maria  Louisa,  Archduchess 
of  Parma,  and  late  Empress  of  France,  who  were  here  on  a  visit  for 
a  few  days,  from  the  neighbouring  city.  They  are  highly  respectable, 
and  the  entertainment  of  the  evening  was  far  from  being  dull.  The 
music  was  excellent,  worthy  of  the  native  city  of  Rossini. 


4-22  LETTERS  FilOM  EU!^OPE. 

LETTER  LXXXIII. 

DEPARTURE   PROM  BOLOGNA — RIDE    TO    FERRARA ENVIRONS SKETCH 

OF  THE  CITY LIBRARY TOMB   OP   ARIOSTO MANUSC^RIPTS HOSPI- 
TAL   OP    ST.    ANNA PRISON    OF    TASSO — DUCAL    PALACE HOUSE    OP 

ARIOSTO CHAPEL     OP    BENEDICTINES CERTOSA SANTA    MARIA    IN 

VADO — CATHEDRAL — DEPARTURE  PROM  FERRARA PASSAGE  OP   THE 

rO SCENERY  OP   ITS   BANKS AUSTRL-VN    CUSTOM-HOUSES ROVIGO 

THE  ADIGE MONSELICE ARRIVAL  AT  PADUA. 

September,  1826. 

At  6  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  10th,  we  left  Bologna  for  Ferrara. 
A  ride  of  thirty  miles  presented  very  little  variety  of  scenery,  and  few 
objects  worthy  of  attention.  The  route  extends  over  a  flat  country, 
covered  with  poplars  and  vines.  It  is  bordered  by  much  stagnant 
water,  in  the  form  of  pits  for  rotting  hemp.  They  are  mantled  with 
corruption,  and  emit  a  horrible  stench.  The  inhabitants  have  sallow 
bilious  countenances,  and  the  region  is  extremely  insalubrious.  Hemp 
is  one  of  the  staple  commodities.  The  peasantry  were  engaged  in 
dressing  it.  Large  quantities  of  it  are  taken  across  the  mountains  to 
Leghorn,  and  thence  exported.  It  bears  a  higher  price  in  market,  than 
the  same  article  from  any  otlier  part  of  Italy.  A  canal  connects 
Bologna  with  Ferrara.  We  saw  a  few  boats  navigating  its  sluggish 
channel,  which  does  not  appear  to  be  much  used  for  transportation.  On 
the  very  banks  of  it,  many  teams  were  met,  laden  with  heavy  articles. 
Half  way  between  the  two  cities,  we  crossed  the  Reno  in  a  boat  of 
singular  construction.  The  river  has  a  wide  bed  ;  but  the  quantity  of 
water  at  this  season  is  small.  High  artificial  embankments  have  been 
thrown  up,  to  guard  against  the  floods,  which  sometimes  descend 
from  the  Apennines.  The  whole  district  is  marshy,  covered  with 
pools,  reeds,  and  water-lilies. 

The  suburbs  of  Ferrara  at  once  reminded  us  of  the  Campagna  di 
Roma.  Immense  solitudes  extend  to  the  very  walls  of  the  city.  The 
ground  is  unfenced,  untilled,  and  almost  unpastured.  A  k\v  cattle 
and  sheep  were  seen  sprinkled  over  the  dreary  waste.  The  faubourg, 
without  the  gate,  presents  a  still  stronger  picture  of  desolation.  Its 
houses  are  tenantless  and  ruinous ;  some  with  the  roofs  tumbled  in, 
and  others  witli  shattered  windows.  Here  and  there  a  sickly,  squalid 
inhabitant  was  crawling  along  the  street,  with  a  voice  almost  too 
feeble  and  sepulchral  to  beg.  The  city  is  girt  with  walls  and  moats. 
Above  the  dilapidated  portals,  the  Pope's  arms  are  conspicuously  dis- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        423 

played,  and  a  regiment  of  guards,  sufiicient  to  reclaim  tlie  desert 
which  spreads  uiYilpr  the  ramparts,  is  stationed  at  tiic  entrance,  to 
extort  fees  from  travellers.  Half  an  hour  was  occupied  in  the 
examination  of  our  passports  and  luugage.  Cardinal  Arizzio,  from 
Naples,  is  the  vice-gercnt  of  his  Holiness,  and  no  part  of  St.  Peter's 
patrimony  is  more  shamefully  neglected,  poverty-stricken,  and  wretched. 

We  took  lodgings  at  the  Three  Crowns,  a  large  shell  of  a  building. 
The  arms  of  the  ICx-J-hn press  Maria  Louisa,  of  the  King  of  Prussia,  of 
the  Prince  Michael  of  llussia,  and  the  Grand  Duke  of  Tuscany,  were 
suspended  in  the  court,  with  an  inscription  stating  precisely  the  day 
when  each  of  these  royal  personages  ate  his  macaroni  and  omelet  at 
the  Tre  Corone.  A  IS'cw-York  gentleman  had  been  less  ostentatious 
in  tlie  display  of  the  date  of  his  visit,  in  crayon,  upon  the  walls  of  our 
chamber. 

After  taking  such  refreshments  as  the  house  afforded,  we  com- 
menced a  rami)le  over  the  town,  which  is  of  formidable  extent,  and 
may  be  styled  what  a  foreign  minister  denominated  one  of  our  own — 
"  a  city  of  respectable  distances."  The  streets  are  wide,  straight, 
and  originally  handsome,  but  now  gone  to  decay,  solitary,  and  in 
many  instances  grass-grown.  Frequently  you  might  walk  half  a 
mile  without  meeting  an  inhabitant.  The  ruins  of  the  interior,  as 
well  as  the  solitudes  beyond  the  walls,  recall  an  image  of  Rome,  and 
are  in  accordance  with  the  feehngs  awakened  by  the  Prison  of  Tasso 
and  the  Tomb  of  Ariosto. 

Our  first  visit  was  to  the  Library.  Collections  of  antiquities  occupy 
the  courts  below.  A  custode  received  us  at  the  door.  He  is  an 
intelligent  old  man,  who  has  held  his  office  for  twenty-seven  years. 
He  is  precise  and  oratorical  in  his  diction,  has  his  story  well  conned 
by  rote,  and  can  repeat  the  contents  of  half  the  books  he  shows.  The 
libr  ary  is  one  of  the  richest  and  rarest  in  Italy,  fdling  four  or  five  differ- 
ent halls,  and  comprising  80,000  volumes,  together  with  a  great 
number  of  valuable  manuscripts.  In  the  first  room,  the  portraits  of 
all  the  Cardinals,  good,  bad,  and  indifferent,  who  were  born  at 
Ferrara,  amounting  to  the  formidable  list  of  eighteen,  are  paraded 
round  the  walls  aloft,  with  their  heads  bumping  the  gilded  ceihng. 
The  head  of  Benvenuto  is  the  most  interesting  article. 

At  the  end  of  the  principal  hall  stands  the  splendid  tomb  of  Ariosto, 
erected  by  order  of  General  Miolis,  after  the  conquest  by  the  French. 
The  dust  of  the  poet  was  transferred  from  the  church  of  Benedictines, 
and  deposited  with  great  funeral  pomp.  It  was  a  tribute  of  false  re- 
spect to  disturb  the  ashes,  and  inurn  tiiem  in  a  fresh  cold  sarcophagus, 
Iiowever  proud  it  may  be.     The  monument  is  in  the  shape  of  the 


424  LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE. 

front  of  a  Grecian  temple,  supported  by  four  pillars  of  the  composite 
order.  A  mixture  of  colours  detracts  from  the  taste  of  the  pile,  the 
basis  of  which  is  of  red  Verona  marble,  and  the  upper  part  of  clouded 
African  and  black  antique.  A  wreathed  bust  of  the  poet  is  placed 
aloft,  against  a  black  field.  Beneath  is  an  inscription,  recording  the 
date  and  circumstances  of  the  removal,  and  styling  Areosto  (as  the 
name  is  here  written)  the  most  celebrated  of  the  Italian  poets,  placing 
him  before  Dante  or  Tasso.  Lower  down  are  -the  classical  lines, 
originally  inscribed  on  his  tomb  ;*  and  on  the  pedestal  is  yet  another 
inscription,  which  is  at  least  one  too  many.  The  bust  is  supported 
by  a  figure  of  Love  on  one  side,  and  of  Comedy  on  the  other.  On 
the  whole,  the  tomb  is  very  splendid  and  showy,  though  not  in  the  best 
taste,  as  it  appeared  to  me.  The  ceiling  of  the  hall  is  embellished 
with  frescos,  and  the  walls  are  lined  with  the  busts  of  eminent  natives 
ofFerrara. 

In  an  adjoining  room,  we  examined  some  enormous  folios,  (four 
feet  by  three,)  on  parchment,  containing  a  copy  of  the  Pentateuch, 
the  Psalms,  and  specimens  of  sacred  music,  all  executed  with  a  pen, 
in  the  14th  century.  These  ponderous  tomes  are  ornamented  with 
figures  and  illuminations,  illustrative  of  scripture  scenes,  one  of  which 
is  the  Creation.  Many  rare  books  and  manuscripts  were  shown  to 
us,  several  of  which  related  to  the  House  of  Este.  On  opening  one 
of  these  volumes,  a  large  scorpion  was  found  coiled  up  in  the  leaves, 
which  the  librarian  killed,  and  afterwards  thumbed  the  pages  with  more 
caution.  Among  other  curiosities,  are  works  published  at  Venice 
with  wooden  types,  soon  after  the  invention  of  printing. 

But  the  most  interesting  compartment  of  the  library,  is  that  which 
contains  the  manuscripts  of  Ariosto,  comprising  the  original  of  his 
Orlando  Furioso,  and  of  his  satirical  attack  upon  the  Pope.  Alfieri's 
name,  with  the  date  of  his  visit  to  Ferrara,  in  1786,  is  written  on  the 
margin,  and  carefully  protected  from  injury,  by  being  covered  with 
silk  paper.  In  the  same  collection  are  the  original  letters  of  Tasso, 
written  during  his  imprisonment,  copies  of  which  are  given  in  the 
Illustrations  of  Hobhouse.  The  old  custode  stated,  that  Lord  Byron 
passed  fifteen  days  in  this  library,  and  gave  him  a  louis  d'or  a  day,  for 


*  Notus  et  Hesperiis  jacet  hie  Areostus  et  InHis, 
Cui  rnusa  seternnm  nomen  Hetrusca  dedit, 

Seu  satiram  in  villa  exacuit,  sen  comica  lusit, 
Seu  cecinit  giandia  bclla  ducesque  tuba: 

Ter  summus  vates,  cui  docti  in  Tertice  Pindi. 
Ter  gemina  licuit  cingere  fronde  comas.'" 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        425 

the  privilege  of  nTlTking  such  extracts,  from  the  books  and  manuscripts 
as  he  chose.  Here  are  deposited  the  fantastic  old  armed  chair  and 
the  inkstand  of  Ariosto  ;  as  also  a  medal  bearing  his  head  on  one  side, 
and  a  man  in  the  act  of  clipping  the  tongue  of  a  serpent,  upon  the 
reverse.  The  librarian  made  much  parade  in  exhibiting  these  articles, 
pretending  that  very  few  had  ever  had  a  sight  at  them  ;  a  story  which 
lie  probably  tells  every  traveller,  by  tlie  way  of  magnifying  his  services. 

Our  next  visit  was  to  the  Hospital  of  St.  Anna,  an  extensive  edi- 
fice fronting  upon  the  Corso.  The  court  is  shaded  with  holly  and 
other  shrubbery.  On  the  right  of  the  entrance  is  a  narrow  passage, 
leading  to  the  prison  of  Tasso,  labelled  with  the  words,  "  Ingresso  al- 
ia Prigione  di  Torquato  Tasso.''  It  is  a  low  arched  vault,  dark  and 
damp,  with  a  small  grated  window  in  front,  once  looking  into  a  gar- 
den, but  now  obstructed  by  other  buildings.  The  cell  has  no  floor. 
There  was  a  place  for  a  fire  in  one  corner,  and  the  poet's  bed  occu- 
pied the  other.  An  inscription  over  the  door  states,  that  here  Tasso 
was  confined  seven  weeks.  Mr.  Hobhouse  makes  the  time  still 
longer.  The  walls  bear  the  name  of  Byron,  inscribed  by  himself. 
Such  is  the  dungeon,  into  which  the  great  epic  pofit  of  modern  Italy 
was  thrown  by  his  royal  patrons,  under  a  pretence  of  madness! 

We  continued  our  excursion  thence  to  the  Ducal  Palace,  once  the 
residence  of  the  House  of  Este.  It  is  a  monstrous  pile,  three  stories 
high,  crowned  with  four  red  towers,  rising  in  the  centre  of  the  city  ; 
surrounded  by  broad  moats,  filled  with  stagnant  water,  and  approached 
by  a  draw-bridge.  The  court  is  lined  with  arcades.  A  cicerone  led 
us  through  room  after  room,  tolerably  furnished,  but  containing  few 
pictures  or  statues.  In  one  of  the  apartments.  Cardinal  Arizzio  and 
a  party  of  priests  were  at  table,  revelling  over  their  wine,  and  indul- 
ging in  loud  laughter,  heedless  of  the  associations  of  the  house,  and 
of  their  professional  duties.  A  state-bed  has  been  fitted  up  for  the 
Grand  Duchess  of  Parma,  when  she  cannot  find  accommodations  at 
the  Three  Crowns. 

The  old  part  of  the  palace  is  hallowed  by  the  spirits  of  Tasso  and 
Ariosto.  By  the  former,  a  mirror,  still  in  its  place,  was  so  adjusted 
to  the  wall  of  an  antique  saloon,  that  the  image  of  his  fair  Eleanora, 
the  cause  of  all  his  misfortunes,  was  reflected,  and  could  be  seen  by 
him,  whenever  she  appeared  at  her  window,  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  court.  Here  the  divine  bard  lived,  "  loved  and  sung  ;"  blest  with 
the  visitations  of  the  muse  and  the  smiles  of  beauty  ;  enjoying  literary 
ease  and  the  pleasures  of  a  court,  till  the  jealousy  and  persecution  of 
a  capricious  patron  mingled  the  cup  of  felicity  with  bitterness.  What 
a  transition,  from  the  sumptuous  halls  of  the  Ducal  Palace,  to  the 

VOL.  II.  5i 


426         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

gloomv  dungeon  in  the  hospital  of  St.  Anna !  Such  a  change  alone 
would  be  enough  to  madden  a  refined  intellect,  had  it  previously 
exhibited  no  indications  of  insanity.  So  fickle  is  the  fortune  of  hini, 
"  who  hangs  on  Princes'  favours!" 

Climbing  to  the  terrace  overhanging  the  court,  and  forming  the 
battlements  of  the  castle,  we  had  a  perfect  view  of  the  whole  city  and 
its  environs,  presenting  a  picture  of  loneliness  which  made  the  heart 
sad.  Beneath  us  extended  the  Corso,  leading  to  the  Roman  Gate, 
repaired  and  improved  by  Napoleon ;  but  no  ghttering  carriages 
thundered  along  the  pavement,  and  its  sidewalks  were  as  desolate  as 
the  streets  of  Pompeii.  Yet  Ferrara  amidst  its  ruins  possesses  a  sort 
of  dignity,  which  renders  it  extremely  interesting  to  the  traveller. 

From  the  Ducal  Palace,  we  went  to  the  house  of  Ariosto,  standing 
on  the  eastern  side  of  the  town,  which  at  present  is  almost  deserted. 
The  building  is  of  brick,  two  stories  high,  and  without  much  ornament. 
Over  the  upper  row  of  windows  in  front,  is  a  Latin  inscription,  and 
beneath  the  cornice  of  the  basement,  is  another,  which  allude  to  the 
residence  of  the  poet,  his  character,  and  pursuits.  We  entered 
beneath  the  arched  portals,  inscribed  with  the  name,  and  ornamented 
with  a  bust,  of  the  author  of  Orlando  Furioso,  which  was  here  written. 
A  sprightly  Ferrarese  woman,  who  is  the  occupant,  invited  us  up 
stairs,  to  look  at  the  study  of  its  former  illustrious  proprietor  and 
inmate.  The  ceiling  remains  precisely  in  the  condition  it  was  left  by 
him  three  centuries  ago.  It  is  composed  of  red  cedar,  richly  painted. 
The  walls  and  other  parts  of  the  chamber,  except  the  door,  half  of 
which  has  been  carried  off'  in  fragments  by  travellers,  have  been 
repaired ;  and  a  monument  commemorates  the  celebrity  of  the 
dwelling. 

Not  far  hence  is  the  church  of  Benedictines,  which  we  visited  to 
see  the  tomb,  in  which  the  poet  was  originally  buried,  and  which  his 
dust  has  consecrated.  He  slept  beneath  the  pavement,  till  the  French 
caused  a  premature  resurrection.  They  have  left  a  tablet  inscribed 
with  an  ostentatious  record  of  an  event,  which  reflects  so  little  credit 
upon  their  taste,  whatever  might  have  been  their  motives.  The  Bene- 
dictine chapel  is  a  splendid  edifice,  worthy  of  the  proudest  sepulchre. 
At  the  hour  of  our  visit,  a  large  school  of  female  children  filled  the 
aisles,  reading  and  chanting,  under  the  direction  of  instructresses. 

Our  rambles  were  extended  to  the  Certosa  or  cemetery,  in  the  out- 
skirts of  the  city,  which,  in  its  general  construction  and  aspect,  bears 
a  strong  resemblance  to  the  Campo  Santo  at  Bologna.  A  large  and 
gloomy  church  forms  the  entrance  to  the  mansions  of  the  dead.  At 
the  door  stood  a  black  bier,  shrouded  with  a  pall,  and  bearing  the  title 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         427 

of  the  confraternity,  engaged  in  burials,  to  whom  it  belonged.  A  few 
persons  were  kneehng  like  statues  upon  the  pavement,  and  a  group  of 
old  women  were  collected  about  a  crucifix,  kissing  the  feet  of  the  Sa- 
viour. The  scene  was  peculiarly  impressive,  and  prepared  the  mind 
for  its  meditations  among  the  tombs.  The  field  of  the  dead  has  a 
more  numerous  population,  than  the  abodes  of  the  living.  There  are 
many  beautiful  monuments,  but  very. few  sepulchres,  which  can  inte- 
rest a  stranger.  Tiie  cemetery  was  commenced,  like  that  of  Bologna, 
under  the  auspices  of  the  French,  at  the  beginning  of  the  [tresent  cen- 
tury. 

A  call  was  made  at  the  church  of  Santa  Maria  in  Vado,  which  is  a 
proud  structure,  rich  in  marbles  and  pictures.  Some  of  the  latter  have 
been  to  Paris,  and  are  now  restored  to  their  former  localities.  But 
my  attention  was  arrested  by  a  scene  more  attractive  than  the  works 
of  art.  Here  was  another  large  school  of  female  children,  neatly  clad, 
and  engaged  in  the  exercises  of  the  day,  under  the  guidance  of  several 
ladies.  Each  of  the  pupils  ascended  in  turn  a  little  rostrum  and 
read  aloud,  while  the  others  attentively  listGned.  Tho  [falian  lan- 
guage, in  the  soft  voicGis  of  young  girls,  is  as  sweet  as  tho  music  of  a 
cherub.  By  and  by  a  priest  commenced  walking  up  and  down  among 
the  benches,  giving  instructions  in  a  familiar  manner.  It  was  a  pain- 
ful thought,  that  doctrines  calculated  to  enslave  the  uiind  and  fill  it 
with  superstition,  should  be  instilled  into  the  breasts  of  such  an  inte- 
resting circle.  In  the  church  of  St.  Andrew,  we  found  a  group  of 
boys  undergoing  the  same  discipline.  This  chapel  contains  a  good 
])icture  by  Titian. 

The  fatiguing  pleasures  of  the  day  closed  with  a  visit  to  the  Cathe- 
dral, which  is  the  most  prominent  building  in  the  city,  but  has  few 
claims  to  a  particular  notice.  It  is  a  Gothic  pile,  irregular  in  its  form 
and  its  style  of  architecture.  The  spacious  and  lofty  choir  is  said  to 
be  the  work  of  Michael  Angelo  ;  though  it  exhibits  few  traces  of  his 
taste  and  genius.  We  ascended  by  a  tedious  flight  of  steps  to  the 
belfry,  perhaps  two  hundred  feet  from  the  ground,  and  had  at  sunset  an 
enchanting  view  of  the  distant  Alps  and  Apennines,  with  the  broad 
plain  stretching  to  their  bases.  Bologna  was  distinctly  seen  ;  and  at 
several  points,  the  eye  caught  gleams  of  the  Po,  reflecting  the  evening 
sun,  and  winding  down  through  its  low  and  verdant  borders. 

Having  examined  all  the  objects  of  any  interest  at  Ferrara,  and  the 
gentleman  to  whom  a  friend  at  Florence  had  given  us  letters  being  out 
of  town,  we  had  no  inducements  for  remaining  longer,  and  at  10 
o'clock  the  next  morning,  left  for  Padua.  The  vetturino  took  us 
through  the  market-place,  in  front  of  the  Cathedral,  which  was  filled 


428        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

with  more  people,  than  I  had  supposed  the  whole  region  contained  f 
although  the  city  alone  once  had  a  population  of  100,000,  within  the 
present  walls,  making  a  circuit  of  seven  miles.  Its  ruinous  suburbs 
furnish  evidence  of  having  belonged  to  a  flourishing  metropolis. 

In  an  hour  after  leaving  the  gate,  we  were  upon  the  banks  of  the  Po, 
the  monarch  of  Italian  floods,  dignified  by  associations  with  the  gods, 
and  the  splendid  fictions  of  poetry.  Although  its  character  may  be 
unworthy  of  such  high  honours,  it  is  certainly  a  noble  river,  broad  and 
majestic  in  comparison  with  other  cisalpine  streams.  It  sweeps  down 
with  a  bold  rapid  current,  which  at  this  point  is  perhaps  half  a  mile  in 
breadth.  The  scenery  upon  its  borders  is  very  far  from  being  pictu- 
resque or  romantic.  Artificial  embankments,  ten  or  fifteen  feet  in 
height,  constructed  at  an  immense  expense,  to  guard  the  adjacent 
country  against  deluges  from  the  Alps,  line  both  shores.  They  have 
now  assumed  the  aspect  of  natural  mounds,  covered  with  poplars  and 
other  species  of  foliage.  The  surface  of  the  water,  like  that  of  the 
Mississippi,  is  higher  than  the  adjoining  fields.  An  unbroken  unifor- 
mity prevails  within  the  narrow  horizon  of  the  spectator,  whose  eye 
finds  no  relief  in  the  turbid  complexion  of  the  current,  or  the  sand- 
banks which  skirt  the  channel. 

We  crossed  in  a  curious  kind  of  boat,  called  the  ponte  volante,  or 
flying  bridge,  which  consists  of  two  sharp  scows,  lashed  together  and 
covered  with  plank.  It  is  swung  across  by  a  cable,  half  a  mile  in 
length,  kept  above  water  by  a  string  of  buoys,  ten  in  number,  the  up- 
permost being  moored  in  the  middle  of  the  river.  The  whole  ma- 
chinery has  an  odd  appearance  when  in  motion,  describing  the  quad- 
rant of  a  circle  in  passing  from  shore  to  shore. 

On  the  opposite  bank  we  entered  Lombardy,  and  soon  began  to  ex- 
perience the  vexations  of  Austrian  custom-houses,  though  they  gave 
us  less  trouble  than  was  anticipated.  It  is  not  so  difficult  to  approach 
from  the  dominions  of  the  Pope,  who  is  supposed  to  take  care  of  all 
rogues  and  freemen,  as  from  the  less  orthodox  frontiers  of  France  and 
Switzerland.  An  ofiicer  at  the  sohtary  Dogana  gave  our  trunks  and 
other  baggage  a  thorough  examination,  taking  out  the  contents,  look- 
ing at  the  title-pages  of  all  our  books,  and  inspecting  our  manuscripts. 
Childe  Harold  and  Lady  Morgan's  Italy  were  among  the  number  ;  and 
as  both  are  interdicted  works,  I  expected  they  would  be  seized.  But 
the  inspector  either  did  not  understand  English,  or  had  forgotten  the 
act  of  proscription,  and  let  them  pass.  He  detained  us  for  an  hour, 
affording  ample  time  to  look  at  the  hkeness  of  Ranieri,  the  Viceroy  of 
the  Austro-Italian  dominions,  which  was  stuck  up  among  the  regula- 
tions and  advertisements  of  the  custom-house. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         429 

The  route  onward  for  live  miles  leads  along  the  ridge,  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Po,  presenting  a  full  view  of  the  river.  Its  strand  is  lined 
with  mills,  moored  in  the  stream,  and  turned  by  the  current.  They 
are  thatched  like  cottages,  and  are  inhabited  by  families.  One  or  two 
pretty  village:-  were  passed  ;  but  the  landscape  possesses  no  variety 
and  the  classical  fame  of  the  Eridanus,  with  the  sisters  of  Phaeton 
still  Aveeping  upon  the  bank,  is  scarcely  able  to  keep  alive  the  interest 
of  the  traveller,  as  ho  passes  over  the  scorching  sands  of  the  road,  in- 
ducing him  to  believe,  that  the  heedless  charioteer  has  again  driven  too 
near  the  earth. 

After  deserting  the  river,  the  country  improves  in  appearance.  The 
farm-houses  scattered  along  the  way  are  neat,  and  the  lands  tolerably 
well  cultivated  ;  but  the  peasantry  are  coarse  in  dress  and  manners, 
the  females  wearing  an  odd  kind  of  straw  hat  without  a  crown,  and 
clumsy  shoes.  Even  the  streets  and  arcades  of  Rovigo  did  not  show 
to  us  any  of  the  pretty  women,  which  some  tourists  have  found.  It  is 
a  large  and  well  built  town,  worthy  of  giving  titles  to  marshals  of 
France  ;  though  French  cooks  are  at  present  more  needed  than  French 
soldiers.  The  hotels  are  execrable.  Sour  bread,  sour  wine,  and  sour 
grapes,  with  a  meagre  omelet  constituted  our  bill  of  fare,  the  best 
which  the  post-house  afforded.  We  here  changed  coaches,  and  lost 
the  dashy  horses,  which  had  brought  us  from  Bologna.  Tlieir  collars 
were  trimmed  with  fur,  and  tall  red  head-dresses,  terminating  in  a 
plume  and  a  metallic  vane,  which  shifted  witli  every  wind,  decorated 
their  heads,  while  strings  of  bells  set  off"  their  necks.  They  were  so 
gay,  as  to  attract  the  attention  of  every  body  along  the  road.  With  a 
new  team,  a  new  passenger  was  forced  upon  us.  He  had  the  dress 
and  manners  of  a  gentleman  ;  but  on  arriving  at  Padua,  he  came  to 
one  of  us  and  begged  for  money  enough  to  pay  for  his  supper. 

Four  or  five  miles  from  Rovigo,  we  crossed  the  Adige  in  a  ponte 
volante,  similar  to  that  on  the  Po.  The  breadth  of  the  former  river  is 
less  than  half  of  that  of  the  latter,  and  the  current  is  not  so  rapid.  Its 
banks  are  guarded  by  the  same  knid  of  artificial  mounds,  with  the  same 
uniformity  of  scenery.  At  sunset  we  reached  Monselice,  a  curious 
conical  hill,  terminating  the  vista  formed  by  the  long  hues  of  poplars 
upon  the  road.  A  large  village  encircles  the  base,  and  the  walls  ex- 
tend to  the  top  of  the  enjinence,  where  are  the  ruins  of  a  fortress.  On 
the  left  at  the  distance  of  a  few  miles,  the  long  chain  of  the  Euganean 
Hills  skirts  the  western  horizon.  The  view  on  a  bright  evening  was 
extremely  beautiful. 

The  remainder  of  our  ride  of  twelve  miles  to  Padua  was  by  moon- 
light, affording  occasional  glimpses  of  villas  and  country-seats  border- 


430         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

ing  the  road.  We  reached  the  gates  of  the  city  at  9  o'clock  ;  but  the 
stjipid  officers  at  the  Dogana  detained  us  a  long  time,  in  attempting  to 
spell  out  our  passports,  and  then,  not  being  satisfied,  determined  to 
keep  them  all  night,  giving  us  a  carte  of  security  till  they  were  returned- 
Our  fellow-passenger  remonstrated  against  such  a  proceeding,  and  all 
of  them  were  at  length  restored.  A  broad  and  desolate  belt  lies  be- 
tween the  walls  of  Padua  and  the  houses,  furnishing  evidence  of  our 
approach  to  another  Ferrara.  The  moon  was  by  this  time  mounting 
towards  the  zenith,  in  a  pure  cerulean  sky,  and  poured  a  flood  of  radi- 
ance upon  the  city  of  Antenor  and  Livy,  the  antique  towers  of  which 
never  appeared  under  a  more  favourable  light  ;  and  to  render  our  arri- 
val still  more  romantic,  a  serenade  of  the  softest  music  was  kept  up  in 
front  of  the  hotel  of  the  Two  White  Crosses  till  midnight. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        43 J 

LETTER  LXXXIV. 

liXCUKSION    TO  AKQUA TOMB    AND    hAST    RESIDENCE   OF    PETRARCH 

SKETCH    OF   PADUA — CHURCH    OP   ST.    ANTHONY SANTA   JUSTIZIA 

HOSPITAL  FOR  INVALIDS OBSERVATORY BIRTH-PLACE  AND  TOMB  OF 

LIVY UNIVERSITY TOMB  OF   ANTENOR RIDE    DOWN  THE    BRENTA 

ARRIVAL  AT  VENICE FIRST  VIEW  OF  THE  CITY. 

September,  1826. 

The  12th  was  occupied  in  an  excursion  to  Arqua,  embosomed  among 
the  Euganean  Hills,  ten  or  twelve  miles  in  a  south-western  direction 
from  Padua.  Having  visited  the  birth-place  and  residence  of  Petrarch, 
we  were  anxious  to  pay  our  respects  to  his  tomb.  Several  pretty 
villas  were  passed  on  our  way  thither.  At  Bataglia  the  main  road"  was 
deserted,  and  a  path  pursued  which  leads  through  a  village,  much  fre- 
quented for  its  warm  baths.  Thence  onward,  the  vetturino  lost  his 
way,  and  took  us  through  fields  and  vineyards,  with  no  other  track 
than  the  loaded  wine-carts  of  the  peasant  had  left.  Our  coach  fre- 
quently brushed  along  the  hedges,  and  from  its  windows  we  plucked 
rich  clusters  of  grapes,  now  in  full  maturity.  They  arc  generally  pur- 
ple, and  the  colour  contrasts  beautifully  with  the  deep  green  of  the 
foliage.  The  vine  is  here,  as  in  other  parts  of  Italy,  trained  upon 
trees  of  moderate  height ;  and  the  laden  festoons,  hanging  gracefully 
from  branch  to  branch,  formed  a  picture,  which  the  touches  of  no  pen- 
cil can  reach.  There  is  almost  as  much  diflerence  between  a  French 
and  an  Italian  vineyard,  as  between  a  garden  and  a  hop-field.  Yet 
much  to  the  regret  of  every  person  of  taste,  utility  is  on  the  side  of  the 
former.  The  peasantry  wore  busy  with  the  vintage,  and  wagons  heap- 
ed with  the  produce  of  their  grounds  were  met  on  our  way. 

Entering  a  vale  opening  from  the  Euganean  Hills  to  the  Adriatic, 
Ave  came  to  the  borders  of  a  solitary  lake,  slumbering  at  the  outlet  of 
the  gorge,  and  surrounded  by  woody  slopes.  On  its  quiet  shores, 
three  tourists  passed  us,  who  had  been  on  a  pilgrimage  to  Arqua,  a 
mile  or  two  beyond.  The  village  is  small,  and  so  situated  as  to  look 
out  through  the  pass  upon  the  broad  plain,  which  spreads  below  to  the 
Gulf  of  Venice.  An  intelligent  lad,  with  a  fine  face,  and  a  glossy 
liead  of  hair,  descending  from  beneath  his  black  cap  to  his  shoulders, 
in  graceful  and  natural  curls,  oflered  his  services  as  a  cicerone,  and 
led  us  up  the  steep  to  the  tomb  of  the  poet.  Tiie  monument  stands 
upon  a  small  open  area,  in  front  of  the  church  of  Santa  Maria,  and  is 
composed  of  coarse  red  marble,  so  rough  hewn  that  the  inscriptions 


432        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

are  scarcely  legible.  A  large  sarcophagus,  finished  in  the  style  of  the 
13th  and  14th  centuries,  is  elevated  ten  or  twelve  feet  from  the  ground, 
supported  by  four  plain  Doric  pillars.  In  one  corner  of  it  is  a  hole, 
though  which  a  Florentine  is  said  to  have  stolen  an  arm  of  his  illus- 
trious countryman.  A  bronze  bust  of  the  poet  stands  in  front.  One 
eye  was  picked  out  and  pilfered  by  an  unknown  traveller,  who  remain- 
ed at  the  village  for  the  night.  Numerous  other  mutilations  have  been 
committed  by  visitants.  There  are  no  trees  in  the  old  church-yard, 
except  one  little  cypress,  which  stands  weeping  near  the  tomb.  The 
laurels  mentioned  in  a  note  to  Childe  Harold,  are  all  withered.  Seve- 
ral inscriptions,  difficult  to  decipher,  are  found  upon  the  pedestal  and 
the  front  of  the  church. 

There  is  a  striking  resemblance  between  the  scenery  of  Arqua  and 
that  of  Vaucluse  ;  and  I  cannot  but  think  that  Petrarch  was  influenced 
by  this  circumstance,  in  selecting  the  place  for  his  retirement  and 
death.  Calcareous  hills  of  moderate  elevation,  naked  at  their  sum- 
mits, rise  on  all  sides.  From  their  bases  descend  slopes,  clothed  with 
olives,  mulberries,  figs,,  pomegranates,  and  vines.  To  add  to  the 
similarity,  a  brook  waters  the  vale,  and  a  copious  fountain  gushes  out 
of  the  hill,  within  a  few  yards  of  the  tomb,  in  the  house  of  the  priest 
attached  to  the  church,  we  found  an  album  filled  with  sonnets  and  with 
the  names  of  visitants.  The  former  are  almost  as  voluminous  as  those 
of  the  poet  himself  Few  of  our  countrymen  appear  to  have  been 
here.  The  records  of  only  four  American  visits  were  observed — 
two  from  New- York  and  as  many  from  Philadelphia. 

Petrarch's  last  residence  was  upon  the  brow  of  Monte  Grande,  com- 
manding a  full  view  of  the  vale,  of  the  village  of  Arqua,  and  of  Monte 
Sero,  a  picturesque  hill  crowned  by  the  ruins  of  a  fortress,  at  the  dis- 
tance of  a  mile  or  two  in  front.  An  hour  or  more  was  passed  in  ex- 
amining the  house,  which  is  of  brick,  two  stories  high,  with  a  handsome 
porch  at  the  entrance,  shaded  by  vines  and  fig-trees.  The  walls  as 
well  as  the  ceilings  of  the  rooms  are  ornamented  with  frescos,  depict- 
ing scenes  which  were  designed  by  the  poet  himself  A  coarse  old 
woman,  who  is  the  present  resident,  explained  the  whole  series.  They 
are  chiefly  illustrative  of  the  loves  of  Petrarch  and  Laura.  In  one  she 
is  represented  bathing,  in  another  reading,  and  in  a  third  reposing  in 
the  siiade  of  a  tree,  whilst  her  votary,  always  at  a  respectful  distance, 
is  in  the  act  of  admiring  her  charms.  The  scene  at  the  bath  reminds 
one  of  a  passage  in  the  Seasons. 

Among  the  furniture  of  the  house  are  a  case  of  drawers,  and  the 
old  armed  chair,  in  which  the  poet  breathed  his  last,  on  the  13th  of 
July,  1374,  at  the  age  of  70.     The  walls  of  the  apartments  are  inscri- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        433 

bed  with  the  names  of  visitants.  In  a  balcony  lookincf  into  the  vale  is 
a  fresco  representing  an  old  man  in  the  attitude  of  disarming  Cupid, 
which  is  probably  intended  to  be  emblematic  of  Petrarch's  philosophi- 
cal retirement ;  though  it  ill  accords  with  the  reminiscences  of  Laura 
portrayed  in  other  parts  of  the  house.  Below  the  terrace  spreads  a 
small  but  pretty  garden,  filled  with  vines  of  the  muscadel  grape,  which 
we  found  delicious.  Strings  of  figs,  undergoing  the  process  of  drying 
in  the  sun,  were  suspended  in  festoons  on  the  front  of  the  building. 
They  are  strung  like  apples  in  our  country,  with  a  leaf  of  the  tree  be- 
tween every  two,  to  keep  them  from  uniting.  The  fig,  before  it  is 
dried,  is  a  luscious  and  nutritious  fruit.  We  found  it  ripe  and  in  all  its 
perfection,  during  our  tour  through  the  north  of  Italy. 

In  walking  down  a  steep  descent  which  leads  from  the  village,  on 
our  return  towards  Padua,  a  peasant  girl  came  along  on  her  way  to  a 
neighbouring  vineyard,  and  entered  into  conversation  with  us.  She 
was  without  shoes  or  stockings,  and  the  sun  had  given  her  the  com- 
plexion of  a  pretty  brunette.  She  said  her  gold  ear-rings  cost  sixty 
pauls.  Her  hair  was  neatly  plated  and  done  up  with  silver  skewers. 
She  had  a  wooden  collar,  like  that  of  a  milk-man,  upon  her  shoulders, 
and  a  large  bucket  suspended  at  each  side.  She  was  poino-  to  fill 
them  with  grapes,  which  would  then  niako  an  enormous  load.  I  ask- 
ed her  if  she  ever  read  Petrarch.  She  pomtcd  to  her  pails  and  replied 
— "  No,  I  am  taught  to  carry  these,  not  to  read  and  write." 

We  returned  by  a  diflerent  route,  passing  a  large  palace,  which 
belongs  to  the  Duke  of  Modena.  It  is  five  stories  high  ;  but  neither 
the  edifice  nor  the  grounds  exhibit  much  taste.  Many  ladies  and 
gentlemen  were  met  in  carriages,  on  their  way  to  the  baths  of  St. 
Helena.  There  is  a  hotel  just  without  the  gates  of  Padua,  whither 
the  belles  and  beaux  resort  at  evening,  to  eat  ice-creams,  and  some- 
times to  take  refreshments  of  a  more  exhilarating  description.  We 
overtook  a  troop  of  a  dozen  pretty  girls,  without  hats,  unattended  by 
the  other  sex,  and  reeling  home  like  Bachantes.  They  were  rude  in 
their  manners,  and  called  out  to  us  in  passing.  There  appears  to  be 
much  less  refinement  among  all  classes  in  this  part  of  Italy,  than  in 
other  states. 

Early  on  the  following  morning,  we  commenced  the  rounds  of 
Padua,  in  the  usual  manner  of  sight-seeing,  under  the  guidance  of  a 
stupid  cicerone,  who  scarcely  knew  the  localities  of  his  native  city. 
He  took  us  to  the  church  of  St.  Anthony,  a  stupendous  (iotliic  edifice 
nsmg  from  one  of  the  principal  scpjares,  crowned  by  five  domes  and 
several  lofty  steeples.  It  is  stately  and  venerable  in  its  aspect. 
The  area  in  front  is  embellished  with  an  equestrian  statue  of  a  Venc- 
voL.  n.  55 


434        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

tian  General.  We  found  the  interior  full  of  people,  kneeling  at  the 
shrine  of  St.  Anthony,  who  is  the  patron  of  the  city.  His  altar  blazes 
with  precious  materials,  and  is  more  frequented  than  any  other  in  the 
town.  Over  the  chapel  is  the  inscription,  "  Dii'o  Antonio  confcssori 
sacrum''' — sacred  to  the  godlike  Anthony,  the  confessor.  The  phra- 
seology is  the  same  as  was  used  in  the  deifications  of  the  Caesars.  A 
priest  was  officiating  in  ragged  robes  with  a  ragged  audience. 

In  the  choir  of  the  church  is  another  shrine  dedicated  to  the  saint, 
which  may  be  considered  the  "  sanctum  sanctorum,'"'  as  it  is  conse- 
crated by  the  most  precious  relics.  A  young  ecclesiastic  put  on  his 
robes,  said  his  prayers,  ligiited  half  a  dozen  large  candles,  and  then 
opened  the  three  cabinets,  which  contain  the  plate  of  the  church,  as 
well  as  the  fragments  of  St.  Anthony's  body.  Vessels  of  massive  gold 
embossed  with  gems,  vases  and  chalices,  studded  with  emerald  and  dia- 
mond, flashed  upon  our  dazzled  sight.  Two  friars,  who  were  strangers  to 
the  costly  shrine,  appeared  to  be  as  much  astonished  as  ourselves  at 
its  wealth  and  splendour.  Untold  thousands  must  have  been  expended 
in  the  purchase  of  its  treasures  ;  and  we  had  before  our  eyes  a  practi- 
cal illustration  of  the  consequences.  A  group  of  poor  women  rose 
from  their  knees  and  their  prayers  at  the  entrance  of  the  chapel, 
beseeching  us  in  the  most  plaintive  and  importunate  tones  for  a  trifle, 
to  keep  them  from  starving. 

Pointing  with  a  long  wand  to  a  relic  in  one  of  the  transparent 
crystal  vases,  the  priest  said,  "  that  is  the  chin  of  St.  Anthony."  It 
was  high  above  us,  and  we  could  but  indistinctly  see  the  lower  jaw  and 
teeth  of  some  head,  perhaps  a  saint's,  but  more  probably  a  sinner's. 
The  tongue  was  in  another  vase  ;  but  the  reflection  and  refraction  of 
the  crystal  prevented  us  from  discovering  any  thing  beyond  a  red  sub- 
stance, of  the  shape  and  colour  of. the  unruly  member,  with  the  root 
fixed  in  a  socket  and  the  tip  pointing  upward.  It  is  always  an  object, 
in  the  exhibition  of  relics,  to  guard  against  a  close  inspection. 

The  church  of  Santa  Justiziais  scarcely  inferior  in  size  and  splendour 
to  that  of  St.  Anthony,  while  in  the  style  of  its  architecture  it  is  far 
superior.  It  was  designed  by  Palladio.  It  has  a  noble  front,  and  the 
interior  is  lofty  and  magnificent.  A  crucifix,  bathed  in  blood,  was 
stretched  out  before  one  of  the  altars,  and  around  it  on  the  pavement 
were  strewed  hundreds  of  small  coins,  which  had  been  offered  by 
devotees  on  that  morning,  agreeably  to  a  label  enjoining  contributions, 
placed  upon  the  frightful  image  of  the  Saviour.  The  amount  of 
collections  from  the  poor  was  probably  all  expended  before  night  by 
the  priests,  for  omelets,  coffee,  and  ice-creams.  One  of  the  fraternity 
was  busy  with  his  lantern,  in  showing  a  party  of  ladies  and  gentlemen 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        43o 

llic  dust  of  another  saint  in  the  crypt ;  but  the  jaw-bone  and  tongue  ol 
St.  Anthony  had  satisfied  us. 

The  cloisters  of  an  adjoining  convent  liave  been  very  laudably  con- 
verted into  a  hospital  for  invalid  soldiers,  dedicated  by  Francis  I.  to 
the"La?so  Militi,"  inscribed  upon  the  front.  Wc  saw  hundreds  of 
the  inmates,  as  well  as  other  troops  who  had  never  been  wounded, 
parading  the  streets  in  a  uniform  of  coarse  tow  cloth,  which  hung  like 
cotton-bagging  about  tlieir  limbs,  and  formed  an  odd  contrast  to  gilt 
swords,  cocked  hats,  and  tawdry  epaulettes.  But  the  most  showy  of 
the  throng  was  a  young  Othello,  of  a  coal  black  complexion,  in  a  gaudy 
laced  coat,  girt  with  a  broad  red  sash,  wearing  one  yellow  glove,  and 
dangling  the  other  in  his  hand,  as  he  paraded  the  streets  in  all  the  pomp 
and  circumstance  of  a  military  dandy,  looking  out  for  some  modern 
Desdemona  among  the  fair  Paduese.  In  the  dress  and  appearance  of 
the  people  of  this  city,  there  is  a  strange  compound  of  pride  and 
poverty.  One  man  was  observed  in  a  shabby  coat,  with  a  ponder- 
ous watch-seal  hanging  from  each  of  his  pockets. 

A  spacious  and  splendid  promenade,  called  the  Prato  della  Valle, 
spreads  in  front  of  the  church  of  Santa  Justizia.  It  is  surrounded  by 
a  canal,  planted  with  beautiful  groves,  and  filled  with  hundreds  of 
statues  of  distinguished  men  of  Padua  and  V^enice.  Any  one  has  the 
privilege  of  canonizing  his  friend,  by  adding  a  bust  to  the  congregation, 
with  a  label  upon  the  pedestal.  When  the  marble  multitude  were 
first  seen  by  moonlight,  at  our  entrance  into  the  city,  they  were  taken 
for  real  persons,  reposing  among  the  trees. 

We  visited  the  Observatory,  near  the  western  walls,  and  ascended  to 
ihc  top,  which  is  125  feet  from  the  ground.  The  cupola  is  ornamented 
with  frescos,  exhibiting  rude  likenesses  of  eminent  astronomers,  among 
whom  are  Sir  Isaac  Newton  and  Gallileo.  On  the  ceiling  are  de- 
lineated the  signs  of  the  zodiac.  This  tower  affords  a  perfect  view  of 
(he  town,  which  is  seven  miles  in  circuit,  situated  upon  a  plain,  and 
watered  by  the  Brenta.  In  many  places  the  houses  have  dropped 
away,  leaving  large  tracts  of  vacant  grounds,  shaded  with  luxuriant 
foliage.  The  population,  which  could  once  send  an  army  of  20,000 
to  the  field,  is  now  reduced  to  50,000  in  all ;  and  the  city  bears  the 
marks  of  decrepitude,  poverty,  and  decay.  We  had  an  enchanting 
prospect  of  Monselice,  the  Euganean  Hills,  the  Rhajtian  Alps,  and 
Tyrol,  together  with  the  boundless  sea  of  verdure  which  stretches 
along  the  shores  of  the  Adriatic.  The  waters  of  the  Gulf  were  not 
discernible  ;  but  through  the  excellent  telescope  belonging  to  the 
Observatory,  a  fair  view  was  obtained  of  the  dome  of  St.  Mark's  at 
Venice. 


436        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

A  call  was  made  at  the  Cathedral,  which  is  far  from  being  an  inte- 
rtisting  church.  It  contains  a  pretty  medallion  of  Petrarch,  in  aito- 
rilievo  of  white  marble,  placed  against  a  slab  of  black  antique,  fixed 
in  the  wall.  The  monument  was  erected  in  1818,  at  the  expense  of 
one  of  the  canons,  who  was  a  great  admirer  of  the  poet.  If  I  mistake 
not,  Petrarch  was  an  officer  in  this  church. 

The  cicerone  led  us  thence  to  the  reputed  house  of  Titus  Livius,  the 
Roman  historian.  My  faith  was  so  weak,  while  gazing  at  the  front  of 
a  modern  building,  ornam.ented  with  angels,  and  exhibiting  no  traces 
of  antiquity,  that  I  felt  little  interest  and  derived  little  pleasure  from 
the  visit.  The  words  '•'•  vestustate  restaurata" — dilapidated  and  re- 
stored— are  inscribed  upon  a  tablet  over  the  door.  All  the  ancient 
memorials  have  been  taken  to  the  great  Gothic  Hall,  denominated  the 
Salone,  whither  we  followed  them.  The  Hall  is  a  monstrous  shell. 
300  feet  in  length,  100  in  width,  and  as  many  in  height  to  the  arched 
roof,  rudely  constructed  of  wood,  supported  by  iron  rods  running 
across  from  side  to  side,  joined  by  others  standing  in  a  vertical  posi- 
tion. It  is  in  all  respects  a  novelty.  The  walls  are  daubed  with  rude 
frescos,  and  hned  with  sepulchral  monuments,  among  which  is  one  to 
the  memory  of  Livy.  It  occupies  a  conspicuous  situation  at  the  upper 
end  of  the  hall,  and  is  ornamented  with  the  Roman  emblem  of  the 
wolf  and  twin  boys.  The  slab  appears  to  have  been  taken  from  the 
family  tomb  of  the  historian,  who  died  at  Padua,  at  the  age  of  67,  on 
the  same  day  with  Ovid. 

A  tablet  upon  the  wall  commemorates  the  important  event  of  a  visit 
from  one  of  the  Popes  to  the  Salone,  when  the  assembled  citizens  had 
the  honour  of  kissing  the  hand  and  receiving  the  benediction  of  his 
Hohness.  This  enormous  hall  seems  to  be  appropriated  to  a  great 
variety  of  purposes.  Justice  is  here  administered,  and  it  is  also  used 
for  public  meetings.  We  found  the  floor  covered  with  tlie  drop  scenes 
of  a  theatre,  which  a  party  of  workmen  were  busy  in  repairing.  A 
portico  extends  the  whole  length  in  front,  which  is  entered  by  a  double 
flight  of  steps.  Below  spreads  a  spacious  square,  which  is  occupied 
as  the  principal  market,  filled  with  all  kinds  of  commodities  and  all 
sorts  of  people.  An  old  palace  adjoining  is  labelled  with  "•  Residenza 
di  Podesta" — Mayor's  oflice. 

Not  far  hence  is  the  University  of  Padua  once  the  most  celebrated 
in  the  world  ;  but  alas  how  fallen  !  Its  walls  are  still  venerable  ;  and 
the  double  arcades  surrounding  the  court  are  thickly  hung  with 
escutcheons,  not  of  military  renown,  but  of  achievements  in  scholar- 
ship— with  records  of  doctorates,  professorships,  and  other  literary 
honours,  bestowed  as  a  reward  for  profound  erudition  and  distinguish- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         437 

ed  merit.  There  are  some  thousands  of  these  tablets.  It  was  now 
vacation.  The  rooms  were  all  closed ;  the  officers  and  students  were 
all  absent ;  and  the  courts  were  silent  as  the  grave.  Our  guide  stated 
that  there  are  at  present  forty  professors  and  fifteen  hundred  students. 
The  number  of  the  latter  is  said  to  have  once  amounted  to  eigiiteen 
thousand ! 

We  visited  an  old  church,  to  see  a  bas-relief  by  Canova,  made  to 
the  order  of  a  Prince.  It  appeared  to  me  unworthy  of  his  chisel.  A 
picture  of  St.  John,  by  Guido,  furnished  a  much  more  ample  recom- 
pense for  a  long  walk  on  a  warm  day.  An  hour  was  spent  in  exami- 
ning the  finest  palace  in  the  city,  the  rendezvous  of  all  the  Austrian 
nobility,  who  pass  through  Padua.  Its  doors  and  stairs  are  beautiful, 
and  the  rooms  neatly  finished  ;  but  the  contents  are  meagre,  in  com- 
parison with  the  rich  collections  in  similar  edifices  at  Rome.  The 
greatest  curiosity  is  a  pyramid,  composed  of  small  figures,  in  white 
marble,  of  the  falling  angels,  tumbling  from  heaven  in  confusion,  and 
supporting  one  another  in  all  possible  attitudes.  It  is  the  work  of  a 
monk,  and  is  said  to  have  called  forth  the  admiration  of  Canova.  In- 
dependent of  its  novelty,  the  sculpture  is  intrinsically  good,  the  ex- 
pression of  the  rebel  throng  infinitely  varied,  and  their  limbs  entwined 
in  the  most  ingenious  manner. 

The  last  object  of  attention,  though  it  can  hardly  be  said,  of  at- 
traction or  interest,  was  what  in  order  of  time  should  have  been  first — 
the  Tomb  of  Antenor.  Risum  teneatis  ? — The  cicerone  informed  us 
with  a  grave  countenance,  that  the  bones  of  the  Trojan  traitor,  refugee, 
and  adventurer  were  actually  enclosed  in  the  sarcophagus,  elevated  on 
pillars  like  that  of  Petrarch  at  Arqua,  and  evidently  of  the  same  age. 
It  stands  at  the  corner  of  two  streets,  in  the  most  ancient  part  of  the 
city.  There  is  an  inscription  on  the  front,  in  the  old  Saxon  character, 
which  we  found  it  difficult  to  decipher ;  but  enough  was  learned  to 
satisfy  us,  that  the  tomb  was  really  intended  for  Antenor.  It  is  proba- 
bly a  cenotaph,  erected  in  the  middle  ages,  in  honour  of  the  founder  of 
the  city. 

At  1  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  we  left  Padua  in  a  vettura  for  Venice. 
The  ride  down  the  left  bank  of  the  Brenta  was  charming,  with  the  river 
on  one  side,  and  a  succession  of  splendid  villas  on  the  other.  Several 
of  the  palaces  were  built  by  Palladio  and  other  distinguished  architects, 
for  Venetian  noblemen,  whose  wealth  and  families  have  now  disappear- 
ed, while  their  sumptuous  mansions,  whither  they  used  to  retire  in  the 
hot  months,  are  inhabited  by  Austrians  and  other  foreigners.  The 
largest  and  most  elegant  belongs  to  the  Archduke  Ranieri,  Viceroy 


438        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

of  Italy.  Its  proportions  are  grand,  and  it^  grounds  are  in  good  taste, 
being  laid  out  in  the  style  of  park  scenery  in  England.  The  right  bank 
of  the  Brenta  is  finely  wooded,  sprinkled  with  farm-houses  and  cotta- 
ges. The  stream  itself  is  sluggish,  and  sufficiently  large  to  be  naviga- 
ble with  boats  to  Padua.  Its  shores  in  many  places  are  so  wild  and 
luxuriant,  that  the  branches  of  the  trees  bathe  themselves  in  the  flood. 
There  appeared  to  be  much  bustle,  activity,  and  gaiety  in  the  villages 
along  the  road. 

At  5  o'clock  we  reached  Fusina,  the  point  of  embarkation  for 
Venice.  Our  passports  were  retained,  to  be  forwarded  the  next  day. 
The  custom-house  officer  was  satisfied  with  a  small  fee,  and  did  not 
open  our  trunks.  A  fleet  of  gondolas  were  moored  in  the  Brenta, 
waiting  for  passengers,  and  a  host  of  competitors,  more  clamorous 
than  coachmen  or  the  runners  for  French  hotels,  beset  us  and  proffered 
their  services. 

The  gondola  is  about  thirty  feet  in  length,  four  and  a  half  feet  wide 
in  the  centre,  built  sharp  fore  and  aft,  very  much  in  the  form  of  an  In- 
dian canoe.  It  is  constructed  of  substantial  timbers,  though  light  and 
buoyant,  sitting  beautifully  upon  the  water,  and  calculated  for  extra- 
ordinary speed.  The  prow  consists  of  a  serrated  sheet  of  iron,  termi- 
nating in  a  beak  or  volutes  at  top,  kept  bright  and  having  rather  a 
martial  aspect.  To  this  appearance  the  glossy  black  colour  in  no  small 
degree  contributes,  suggesting  the  idea  of  a  piratical  bark.  In  the 
middle  of  the  boat  is  a  pavilion,  of  the  size  and  somewhat  in  the  shape 
of  the  top  of  a  carriage,  with  a  window  on  each  side  which  may  be 
opened  or  shut  at  pleasure,  handsome  curtains  in  front,  and  seats  fur- 
nished with  fine  cushions.  A  person  is  effectually  protected  from  in- 
clement weather,  and  may  be  as  retired  and  comfortable,  as  in  a  pri- 
vate chamber.  The  gondolier  stands  erect,  and  never  shifts  his  oar. 
It  is  incredible  with  what  dexterity  and  speed  he  drives  his  boat,  which 
glides  along  the  water  in  a  noiseless  manner,  and  without  any  apparent 
effort.  In  crossing  the  Lagune  two  oarsmen  are  generally  employed  ; 
but  on  the  canals  only  one  is  required. 

Comfortably  seated,  with  our  faces  towards  Venice,  we  descended 
the  Brenta  for  a  mile  or  two.  The  banks  are  here  rural,  quiet,  and 
luxuriant  in  foliage.  Shrubs  and  wild-flowers  are  reflected  from  the 
glassy  wave  ;  and  among  the  rest,  the  hawthorn  was  in  several  instan- 
ces observed  to  dip  its  red  berries  in  the  stream.  On  emerging  from 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  we  came  in  full  view  of  Venice,  sitting  upon 
the  sea,  lifting  her  hundred  domes,  towers,  and  palaces  above  the 
waves,  and  gilded  by  the  declining  sun.     The  magnificence  of  the  pic- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        439 

ture  and  the  feelings  and  associations  it  awakened,  are  wholly  indescri- 
bable. All  that  chivalry  has  achieved— all  that  history  has  recorded, 
or  poetry  imagined,  of  this  renowned  and  romantic  city,  came  fresh 
over  the  mind.  After  the  ecstacy  of  the  moment  had  subsided,  and 
the  features  in  the  coup  d'oeil  had  been  lixed,  we  plied  the  gondoliers 
with  a  thousand  inquiries  about  localities,  and  the  names  of  the  more 
prominent  objects.  St.  Mark's  is  another  St.  Peter's,  and  its  dome  is 
the  first  to  attract  the  eye  of  the  traveller.  The  sound  of  its  bells 
tolling  for  vespers,  and  stealing  across  the  vvattrs,  met  us  at  a  distance, 
and  attuned  the  feelings  to  a  pleasing  melancholy. 

We  could  not  have  crossed  the  Lagune,  which  is  five  miles  inijreadth 
and  occupies  about  an  hour  and  a  half  in  the  passage,  at  a  more  favour- 
able season,  or  a  more  agreeable  part  of  the  day.  The  evening  was 
bright  and  the  bay  tranquil,  showing  scarcely  a  ripple  upon  its  surface. 
At  first  the  sun  set  in  all  its  glory  upon  the  gilded  battlements  of  the 
city,  which  were  long  reddened  by  the  rich  hues  of  the  west.  Then 
came  an  Italian  twilight,  in  all  its  variety  of  tints,  its  softness  and 
repose.  At  length  the  full  moon  again  lighted  up  the  skies,  and  pour- 
ed her  splendour  upon  the  quiet  waves  of  the  Adriatic.  The  scene 
was  constantly  shifting,  producing  the  most  diversified  combinations  of 
light  and  shade. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  mouth  of  the  Brenta,  we  sportively  asked  the 
gondoliers  to  sing  us  some  of  the  verses  of  Tasso.  To  our  surprise, 
one  of  them  so  far  complied,  as  to  chant  a  passage  from  that  poet. 
The  other  oarsman,  taking  the  hint,  bawled  himself  hoarse  and  us  deaf 
with  his  harsh  notes,  which  he  continued  during  the  whole  voyage. 
He  seemed  to  sing  from  the  mere  love  of  music,  and  not  to  gratify  his 
audience.  His  companion  responded,  when  he  was  acquainted  with 
the  song,  and  when  not,  the  other  prompted.  The  unceasing  strain 
at  length  became  tedious,  especially  when  objects  of  greater  interest 
attracted  attention. 

In  approaching  the  shore  and  entering  the  canals,  the  scene  again 
changed  and  presented  a  new  aspect.  The  city  was  by  this  time 
lighted  up,  and  the  long  line  of  illuminated  windows  appeared  like 
beacons  floating  upon  the  water.  In  a  word,  it  was  difticult  to  realize 
a  picture  so  entirely  novel  and  unique,  and  we  seemed  to  have  been 
transported  to  a  fairy  land,  where  all  was  enchantment.  Other  gon- 
dolas shot  by  us,  with  the  fleetness  and  silence  of  spirits.  Our  own 
glided  alternately  through  the  deep  shadow  of  buildings,  five  or  six 
stories  high,  and  gleams  of  moonlight  breaking  through  between  the  suc- 
cessive ranges  of  palaces,  which  hang  their  flights  of  white  marble  steps 


410        LETTERS  FSOM  EUROPE. 

to  the  very  surface  of  the  water.  After  threading  a  labyrinth  of  minor 
channels,  we  at  length  entered  the  Grand  Canal,  which  is  about  three 
hundred  feet  in  width,  and  winds  through  the  city,  in  the  shape  of  the 
letter  S.  Its  borders  are  lined  with  proud  structures,  which  the  breadth 
of  the  ciiannel  in  front  enables  the  spectator  to  examine  at  a  proper 
distance,  and  under  the  most  favourable  circumstances.  Subsequent 
observation  satisfied  us,  that  Venice  was  made  for  the  night,  and  that 
it  appears  much  the  best  by  moonhght,  when  the  mud  and  sea-weed 
of  its  canals,  the  filth  of  its  narrow  lanes,  the  dilapidations  of  its 
buildings  are  concealed  from  the  eye,  and  when  alone  any  considerable 
portior*  of  its  inhabitants  are  awake  and  visible. 

Reaching  the  centre  of  the  city,  we  stepped  from  the  boat  into  the 
very  porch  of  the  White  Lion,  which  is  one  of  the  best  hotels  that 
had  been  found  in  Italy,  and  afforded  us  excellent  accommodations  for 
eight  or  ten  days.  Its  front  windows  command  an  extensive  view  of 
the  Grand  Canal,  of  the  fleets  of  gondolas  that  darken  its  surface,  of 
the  palaces  upon  its  shores,  and  of  the  Rialto,  which  spans  its  chan- 
nel at  the  distance  of  perhaps  fifty  rods  above.  A  first  glimpse  of  this 
far-famed  bridge,  immortalized  by  the  allusions  of  Shakspeare,  was 
obtained  on  the  evening  of  our  arrival.  The  outlines  could  not  be 
distinctly  traced  ;  but  while  we  were  gazing  from  the  porch  of  the 
Bianca  Leone,  a  person  crossed  with  a  light,  which  described  an  arch 
against  the  horizon,  corresponding  with  that  of  the  Rialto.  A  solita- 
ry lamp  was  burning  upon  its  top.  At  9  or  10  o'clock  a  concert  of 
voices  proceeded  from  this  rendezvous  of  the  lower  classes,  and  at 
length  others  responded  on  the  shore  below.  Sometimes  the  parties 
joined  in  the  same  tune  and  kept  exact  time,  though  they  were  far 
apart.  The  eflect  was  charming.  There  was  a  plaintive,  pleasing 
melancholy  in  the  music,  which  seemed  to  breathe  an  elegy  over  de- 
parted greatness  and  grandeur. 

We  began  to  think  that  all  which  has  been  recorded  or  sung  of  this 
romantic  city,  is  strictly  true,  and  that  the  half  had  not  been  told  us. 
Had  the  gondola  taken  us  back  to  terra  firma  on  the  same  night,  our 
excursion  would  have  left  an  impression  of  a  visit  to  an  enchanted 
land,  presenting  scenes  entirely  out  of  the  sphere  of  ordinary  life,  and 
unlike  any  thing  else  to  be  found  on  earth.  A  tourist  would  do  well 
to  select  a  bright  moonlight  evening,  cross  the  Lagune  at  sunset, 
navigate  the  canals,  pause  a  moment  at  the  Rialto,  visit  St.  Mark's, 
climb  the  Campanile,  saunter  amidst  the  circles  of  Venetian  beauty 
beneath  the  arcades,  take  a  turn  or  two  in  the  Public  Garden,  row  to 
the  Lido,  and  return  to  the  shore  at  the  dawn  of  dav,  before  the  inha- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        441 

bitants  have  gone  to  sleep.  Rich  as  the  city  is  in  the  works  of  art  and 
the  monuments  of  former  grandeur,  an  examination  in  detail  will  by  no 
means  support  the  first  impression,  and  the  visitant  finds  his  entliusi- 
astic  admiration  declining  daily,  till  his  dreams  of  romance  have  all  va- 
nished, and  the  mistress  of  the  hundred  Isles  is  left  without  any  feelings 
of  deep  regret.  Venice  is  like  a  woman  with  a  pretty  face,  but  desti- 
tute of  intellect  or  heart.  She  may  please  the  eye,  without  being  able 
to  win  and  chain  the  affections. 


VOL.  II.  06 


442        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

LETTER  LXXXV. 

VEKiei2  CONTINUED — EIALTO SA^TA    TERESA — SQUARE  OP   ST.  MARK's 

—  CHURCH BRONZE  HORSES — CAMPANILE VIEW   OF  THE   CITY  AND 

ISLANDS DUCAL  PALACE ANCIENT  HALLS BRIDGE  OF  SIGHS ^DUN- 
GEONS— MINT PUBLIC  GARDEN GREEKS  AT  VENICE. 

September,  1826. 

On  the  morning  after  our  arrival,  we  chartered  a  gondola  with  ofte 
oar,  at  the  rate  of  five  francs  a  day,  and  commenced  a  voyage  of  dis- 
covery, directing  our  course  along  the  Grand  Canal  to  the  Rialto, 
which  was  examined  with  a  minuteness  proportioned  to  its  fame.  It 
is  built  of  white  stone,  resembling  marble.  The  chord  of  its  arclxis 
only  eighty  feet.  Its  sides  are  embellished  with  statues  in  alto-rilievo, 
with  some  other  decorations  and  inscriptions.  But  the  view  from 
the  water  is  neither  grand  nor  beautiful.  Poetry  and  association  have 
done  every  thing  for  this  bridge.  It  is  at  most  a  fantastic  object.  Its 
Construction  is  peculiar.  As  it  has  long  been  one  of  the  principal  marts 
of  the  city,  it  is  fitted  up  with  appurtenances  adapted  to  such  purposes. 
The  central  passage  is  lined  on  both  sides  with  jewellers'  shops  and 
boutiques  for  other  merchandise.  On  the  highest  part  of  the  bridge 
are  transverse  arches,  enclosing  a  small  square,  which  is  occupied  as 
a  sort  of  Exchange.  Behind  the  shops  are  two  other  passages,  one 
on  each  side,  guarded  outwardly  by  handsome  balustrades.  The  as- 
cent from  the  ends  to  the  centre  of  the  walks  is  so  steep,  as  to  render 
steps  necessary.  It  is  of  course  never  crossed  by  carriages,  as  there 
are  none  in  the  city.  I  do  not  recollect  to  have  seen  a  horse,  except 
the  brazen  steeds  in  front  of  St.  Mark's,  during  my  visit. 

While  lounging  to  contemplate  the  ranges  of  palaces  extending  on 
either  hand,  and  to  watch  the  throng  continually  crossing,  we  saw  Jews, 
Greeks,  and  people  from  all  countries  pass  in  various  costumes.  Few 
of  Titian's  Venuses  were  visible,  and  most  of  the  passengers  had  a 
coarse,  vulgar  appearance.  At  the  door  of  a  coffee-house,  a  group  of 
females  were  drinking  Veau  de  vie,  though  it  was  not  yet  1 1  o'clock. 
These  early  risers  belonged  to  the  lower  classes.  The  fashionable 
part  of  the  community  were  at  home  and  asleep,  reserving  a  display 
of  their  charms  till  evening. 

Saluting  the  Madonna,  who  guards  the  flight  of  steps  leading  from 
the  bridge  to  the  water,  we  re-embarked,  passed  under  the  ponderous 
arch,  and  continued  our  voyage  through  the  Grand  Canal.  The  next 
landing  was  eflected  upon  the  steps  of  the  church  of  Santa  Teres.a 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         443 

Senza  Calce,  which  once  belonged  to  the  Carmelites.  Its  front  is  ma- 
jestic, rising  from  the  water  on  double  ranges  of  columns,  crowded  witli 
statues  and  other  ornaments.  The  interior  is  rich,  too  rich,  in  splen- 
did materials.  A  series  of  chapels  extend  round  the  walls,  finished  at 
the  expense  of  noble  families,  each  of  whom  sought  to  be  foremost  in 
the  extravagance  of embellisiiments.  Every  variety  ofmarble,  precious 
stone,  and  metal  has  here  been  squandered,  and  the  wanton  profusion 
detracts  from  the  simplicity  and  beauty  of  the  church.  The  chapel 
whicii  is  the  most  elegant  and  in  the  best  taste,  is  the  least  gaudy.  It.^ 
pillars  are  of  black  antique,  with  dove-coloured  capitals.  The  canopy 
of  the  high  altar  is  supported  by  spiral  columns  of  red  marble,  wliicli 
appear  extremely  awkward  and  ugly.  St.  Teresa  furnishes  an  illus- 
tration of  the  Venetian  School  of  painting,  in  which  too  much  stress 
is  laid  upon  colour,  to  the  neglect  of  other  principles  of  more  import- 
ance. A  young  priest  seemed  to  take  a  pride  in  informing  us,  that 
this  church  cost  336,000  ducats. 

Continuing  our  excursion,  we  emerged  from  the  Canal  into  an  arm 
of  the  Lagune,  half  a  mile  in  breadth,  separating  the  island  of  St.  Mag- 
giore  from  the  rest  of  the  city,  and  forming  the  principal  harbour  for 
boats  and  small  craft.  The  view  of  St.  Mark's  and  the  neighbouring 
edifices,  embracing  a  large  number  of  churches  and  palaces  ;  the  lofty 
tower  rising  in  the  centre  ;  the  shipping  in  the  port  ;  and  the  Public 
Garden  beyond,  can  hardly  be  surpassed  in  magnificence.  Debarking 
at  the  quay,  which  is  as  spacious  and  beautiful  as  those  of  the  Arno, 
we  found  the  winged  Lion  and  a  statue  of  Theodoric,  poised  far  above 
our  heads  upon  two  stupendous  columns  of  granite.  An  esplanade, 
denominated  the  Piazzctta,  opens  from  the  water  to  the  great  Square, 
in  front  of  St.  Mark's,  which  is  the  Palais  Royal  of  Venice — the 
scene  of  the  Carnival  and  other  great  fetes,  the  place  of  resort  for  eat- 
ing, drinking,  gaiety,  and  pleasure.  It  lies  in  the  form  of  a  parallelo- 
gram, perhaps  a  thousand  feet  in  length,  and  three  or  four  hundred  in 
breadth,  surrounded  on  three  sides  by  continuous  ranges  of  palaces, 
three  stories  high,  uniform  both  in  material  and  architecture,  at  least  so 
far  as  not  to  break  the  unity  of  the  view,  or  to  offend  tiie  eye.  The 
whole  area  is  neatly  paved,  and  lined  with  deep  arcades,  into  whicii 
shops  and  cofiee-houses  without  number  open,  presenting  at  night  a 
most  brilliant  spectacle.  In  architectural  grandeur,  this  scjuare  far 
surpasses  the  Palais  Royal.  Several  days  were  occupied  in  exami- 
ning the  edifices  which  surround  it,  and  of  which  I  shall  attempt  a  hasty 
notice. 

The  Church  of  St  Mark,  standing  at  one  end  of  the  Piazza,  is  the 
most  prominent  oljject.     1  have  called  it  the  St.  Prior's  of  Venire. 


444        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

Such  it  is  in  a  religious  point  of  view,  and  the  richness  of  its  materials  ; 
though  it  will  bear  no  comparison  in  size  and  architecture.  It  is  an 
irregular,  rude,  Gothic  pile,  in  which  oriental  marbles  and  the  splendid 
spoils  of  the  east  have  been  heaped  together,  without  much  regard  to 
taste  or  elegance.  Its  exterior  is  grotesque,  and  strikes  only  by  its 
novelty,  being  a  mixture  of  all  orders  and  of  all  kinds  of  materials.  Its 
front  is  indented  with  five  deep  alcoves,  filled  with  rows  of  pillars,  dif- 
fering as  much  in  style  as  in  colour — some  Moorish,  others  Gothic, 
and  the  rest  Grecian,  It  is  said  there  are  three  hundred  in  all.  In 
their  wars  with  the  Turks  and  other  nations,  the  Venetians  brought 
home  the  fragments  of  demolished  temples,  and  added  them  to  this 
proud  structure,  which  in  turn  was  doomed  to  conquest  and  pillage. 
Our  guide  informed  us,  that  the  silver  heads  of  saints  were  picked  out 
of  the  doors,  and  many  of  the  valuable  ornaments  pilfered  by  the  French 
soldiers,  instead  of  being  left  for  the  Austrians. 

A  gallery  extends  across  the  whole  front  of  the  church,  above  which 
rise  five  stately  domes,  in  the  midst  of  innumerable  pinnacles.  We 
ascended  to  the  terrace,  under  the  guidance  of  a  priest,  and  examined 
the  celebrated  bronze-gilt  horses  of  Lysippus,  which  have  been  great 
travellers,  and  jaded  almost  into  hacks.  They  were  plundered  fi-om 
Corinth  by  Mummius  Achaicus  and  carried  to  Rome  ;  thence  returned 
to  Constantinople  ;  on  the  conquest  of  that  city  by  the  Venetians, 
they  were  taken  as  trophies,  and  placed  over  the  front  of  St.  Mark's  ; 
Napoleon  led  them  captive  over  the  Alps,  to  grace  his  triumphal  arch- 
es at  Paris  ;  and  the  members  of  the  Holy  Alliance,  turning  hostlers, 
conducted  them  back  to  the  Adriatic.  They  are  sadly  maimed,  bruis- 
ed, and  galled  by  so  many  long  journeys.  The  gilding  has  in  many 
places  been  scratched  off  for  the  sake  of  the  gold.  One  of  the  collars 
was  broken  and  lost  in  the  removal,  and  a  new  one  put  on  by  the 
French.  They  have  been  patched  up  and  repaired  since  their  return. 
In  size,  they  are  somewhat  larger  than  life,  extremely  well  proportion- 
ed, and  spirited  in  their  attitudes.  Their  present  location  is  horrible. 
They  are  moderately  elevated  upon  pedestals,  and  nothing  but  their 
heads  can  be  seen  from  the  Square  below.  Why  did  not  the  Emperor 
of  Austria,  who  acted  in  the  capacity  of  groom  at  the  restoration, 
direct  them  to  be  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  area,  or  any  where  else 
than  among  the  pinnacles  of  a  church,  between  which  and  war-horses 
there  is  a  strange  incongruity  ? 

The  inside  of  St.  Mark's  is  as  unique  as  the  exterior.  Dark  and 
gloomy  as  it  is,  I  was  pleased  with  it  on  account  of  its  nationality.  It 
was  commenced  during  the  early  ages  of  the  Republic,  in  the  7th  or 
8th  century,  and  enriched  with  the  trophies  of  victory.     The  spoils  of 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         445 

the  east  are  here  accumulated.  Our  cicerone  stated,  that  the  church 
contains  one  hundred  and  forty  different  kinds  of  marbles  and  precious 
stones.  They  are  thrown  together  in  a  rude  manner,  but  display  un- 
bounded wealth,  as  well  as  an  enthusiastic  patriotism.  All  the  inscrip- 
tions relate  rather  to  the  glories  of  the  Venetian  arms,  than  to  the 
doctrines  and  precepts  of  the  Prince  of  Peace.  The  tomb  of  old 
Dandalo  is  conspicuous,  and  the  walls  are  hung  with  the  escutcheons 
of  other  warriors.  Here  are  pillars  from  the  temple  of  Solomon,  and 
doors  from  the  church  of  St.  Sophia  at  Constantinople.  Every  altar, 
every  column,  every  stone  is  historical,  associated  with  the  achieve- 
ments of  the  Republic.  Even  St.  Mark,  the  Patron  of  the  city,  is 
clothed  with  the  badges  of  power,  rather  than  with  the  symbols  of  re- 
ligion. 

We  inquired  of  a  priest,  where  the  dust  of  the  saint  reposes.  Ho 
replied,  "  under  the  church,"  without  being  particular  as  to  the  pre- 
cise spot.  It  is  said  to  have  been  brought  from  Alexandria,  and  here 
deposited.  The  relics  have  all  disappeared,  in  the  successive  revolu- 
tions which  Venice  has  undergone.  A  candle  was  lighted,  to  show 
us  the  perfect  transparency  of  two  oriental  columns  of  alabaster.  The 
pavement  is  undulating  like  the  sea,  on  which  it  rests.  It  is  in  some 
places  so  uneven,  that  one  can  scarcely  walk  upon  it  with  convenience. 
It  is  mosaic,  composed  of  precious  stones  infinitely  varied.  We 
trampled  upon  agate  and  jasper.  The  shrines  are  gorgeous,  and 
always  thronged  with  votaries.  Many  of  the  ornaments  are  lost  to 
the  eye,  owing  to  the  dim  light.  The  walls  and  the  ceilings  of  the 
domes  are  covered  with  mosaics,  frescos,  and  gildings,  which  are  but 
imperfectly  seen,  and  might  perhaps  as  well  be  entirely  concealed. 

In  front  of  St.  Mark's  stand  three  red  masts,  which  in  our  country 
would  be  called  liberty-poles.  They  were  erected  to  commemorate 
the  capture  of  Cyprus,  Candia,  and  the  Morea,  whence  they  were 
brought  as  trophies.  They  are  fixed  at  bottom  in  sockets  of  bronze, 
and  on  the  top  of  each  is  perched  a  brazen  Hon,  wearing  a  crown, 
which  in  this  instance  needs  his  wings,  to  keep  his  balance  at  such  a 
height,  and  on  such  a  slender  support.  Two  other  lions,  in  red  mar- 
ble, repose  with  more  dignity,  by  a  fountain,  or  rather  a  cistern,  on 
the  left  of  the  church  ;  and  a  third,  on  a  neighbouring  building,  holds 
the  book  of  the  Evangelist  in  his  paws.  Above  his  head  is  a  clock, 
on  the  face  of  which  the  sun  is  represented  passing  througli  the  signs 
of  the  zodiac.  In  short,  the  image  of  the  king  of  beasts,  in  the  form 
shadowed  forth  by  the  prophet  Ezekiel,  meets  the  traveller  at  every 
turn  in  the  city ;  though  pains  have  been  taken  to  substitute  the 
double-headed  eagle  of  Austria  and  the  bust  of  the  Emperor. 


Ue  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

The  Campanile  or  belfry  of  St.  Mark's  is  an  enormous  brick  tower, 
standing  in  the  piazza,  insulated  from  the  church.  It  is  perhaps  forty 
feet  square,  and  three  hundred  in  height,  composed  of  a  succession  of 
arches  in  the  interior,  to  give  it  strength.  Three  sides  of  the  basement 
are  lined  with  paltry  retail  shops,  and  in  the  fourth  or  front,  is  a  sort  of 
temple,  highly  embellished  with  bas-relief  and  a  variety  of  sculpture. 
This  curious  apartment  is  now  exclusively  appropriated  to  the  drawing 
of  lotteries.  We  climbed  the  long  flight  of  steps  in  the  interior, 
dimly  lighted  by  small  windows,  at  distant  stages. 

The  cupola  is  formed  by  a  colonnade,  supporting  a  pyramid,  on  the 
top  of  which  is  poised  a  colossal  bronze  angel.  Here  old  Gallileo,  in 
his  exile,  used  to  watch  the  heavens,  and  make  his  astronomical 
observations ;  and  hence  we  had  a  charming  view  of  the  same  blue 
skies,  with  the  hundred  romantic  islands,  which  they  canopy.  To 
adopt  a  simile  which  such  an  observatory  suggests,  Venice  may  be 
compared  to  a  primary  planet,  surrounded  by  numerous  satellites: 
The  city  itself,  from  this  height,  appears  a  compact  mass  of  buildings, 
showing  none  of  its  canals,  bridges,  or  narrow  streets.  It  lies  in  an 
oval  form,  and  is  seven  miles  in  circumference,  girt  by  the  waves,  out 
of  which  rise  other  small  islands,  covered  with  fortresses,  churches, 
convents,  hospitals,  and  other  buildings.  To  the  south,  the  Lido  di 
Palistrina  divides  the  Lagunes  from  the  Adriatic.  It  is  an  artificial 
peninsula,  ten  or  twelve  miles  in  length  and  of  moderate  breadth, 
constructed  in  the  age  of  the  republic,  to  protect  the  city  and  harbour 
from  the  violence  of  the  winds  and  waves.  It  is  now  green  and  stud- 
ded with  white  buildings. 

The  waters  of  the  Lagunes  are  far  from  being  pure  or  beautiful. 
They  are  shoal,  and  new  islets  of  mud  and  sea-weed  in  many  places 
peep  from  the  surface.  The  whole  region  is  alluvial,  composed  of 
fresh  deposits  brought  down  by  the  Po,  the  Brenta,  and  other  streams. 
Appearances  indicate  that  the  process  of  transformation  is  still  in 
active  progress,  aided  by  the  construction  of  the  Lido,  which  prevents 
the  sediment  of  the  rivers  from  being  swept  into  the  sea.  It  is  not 
improbable,  that  within  a  kw  centuries  Venice  will  be  connected  with 
the  shore  by  sand-banks  or  bogs.  Such  a  formation  deprives  the  coast 
of  any  bold  or  agreeable  features ;  and  the  head  of  the  Adriatic  will 
bear  no  comparison  in  point  of  natural  scenery  with  that  of  the  Gulf 
of  Genoa.  Ranges  of  Alps  are  seen  in  the  distance ;  but  no  rugged 
promontories  project  from  the  shore,  to  break  the  sluggish  repose  of 
waters,  stagnating  upon  oozy  and  reedy  beds. 

Descending  from  the  tower,  we  visited  the  Ducal  Palace,  which 
extends  from  St.  Mark's  to   the   quay,   bounding   one  side  of  the 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         447 

Piazzctta.  It  is  a  stupendous  edifice  of  very  singular  construction. 
The  basement  is  composed  of  arches ;  the  second  story  is  of  light 
open  fretwork,  in  the  Saracenic  or  Arabescjuc  style  ;  and  the  third 
story  consists  of  heavy  plain  brick,  loaded  witlt  a  prodigious  weight 
of  Gothic  pinnacles.  Every  principle  of  architecture,  as  well  as  of 
taste,  is  violated  in  this  curious  structure.  The  order  of  stories  is 
reversed,  and  the  ponderous  battlements  seem  sufficient  to  crush  the 
delicate  fabric  below.  But  with  all  its  defects,  this  old  palace  is 
pecuharly  interesting.  Its  exterior  bears  the  marks  of  neglect,  dilapi- 
dation, and  decay.  Myriads  of  doves  were  observed  hovering  and 
Backing  their  homes  among  its  shattered  pinnacles.  Its  form  is 
quadrangular,  leaving  a  spacious  court  in  the  centre,  which  is  sur- 
rounded by  double  ranges  of  arcades  or  corridors — one  in  the  base- 
ment, and  the  other  round  the  second  story.  The  ground  on  which 
it  is  built,  like  that  of  St.  Mark's,  has  settled  to  such  a  degree,  that 
the  frieze  is  crooked,  and  the  whole  fabric  seems  ready  to  follow  the 
destiny  of  the  government,  which  once  occupied  its  halls. 

Austrian  placemen  have  established  their  offices  in  the  chambers  of 
Doges  and  Senators,  and  the  tyranny  of  the  Council  of  Ten  is  main- 
tained by  the  new  masters  of  Venice,  who  have  ruined  its  prosperity 
and  reduced  its  inhabitants  to  beggary.  The  Grand  Council  Room 
has  been  converted  into  a  library,  with  groups  of  statues  elevated 
upon  pedestals  and  scattered  about  the  hall,  among  which  the  Empe- 
ror of  Austria  is  the  most  conspicuous.  The  walls  and  ceiling  arc 
ornamented  with  pictures  and  frescos  of  the  Venetian  school — Titian, 
Paul  Veronese,  and  Tintoretto.  One  end  of  the  apartment  is 
entirely  covered  with  the  Paradise,  painted  by  the  latter  artist.  It  is  a 
most  complex  and  laborious  work,  comprising  an  infinite  number  of 
figures,  all  in  different  attitudes.  But  it  possesses  little  interest,  and 
is  looked  at  without  emotion.  The  same  national  spirit  is  visible  in 
the  embeUishments  of  the  old  palace,  as  in  the  church  of  St.  Mark. 
All  the  battles  and  victories  of  the  Republic  are  delineated  ;  and  some 
of  them  have  half  a  dozen  editions  from  different  pencils.  The 
Venetian  artists  seem  to  have  been  much  more  patriotic  than  those 
of  Genoa. 

Of  the  other  innumerable  apartments  which  we  traversed,  the  most 
interesting  is  the  ancient  Senate-house  of  the  Three  Hundred,  where 
the  "  most  potent,  grave,  and  reverend  signiors"  used  to  deliberate, 
and  settle  the  affairs  of  state.  Wooden  benches,  painted  red,  arc 
arranged  round  the  room  ;  and  in  a  central  position,  a  rostrum  is 
erected  against  the  wall,  wliich  each  used  to  ascend  to  make  his 
harangue.     But  despotism  has  stifled  the  voice  of  eloquence :  the 


448        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

seats  and  the  tribune  are  vacant ;  and  the  walls  are  crumbling  into 
ruin.  When  we  call  to  mind  the  Republics  of  Greece  and  Rome,  of 
Florence,  Pisa,  and  Lucca,  of  Genoa  and  Venice,  of  Switzerland, 
Holland,  and  France,  and  see  all  these  countries  now  reduced  to 
monarchies  and  despotisms,  what  reason  has  the  present  age  to  boast  of 
the  progress  of  philosophy,  or  to  hope  for  the  triumph  of  free  prin- 
ciples ? 

Near  the  Senate  Chamber  is  the  hall,  in  which  the  Council  of  Ten 
were  wont  to  assemble.  It  is  now  occupied  by  an  Austrian  tribunal  of 
Thirty  ;  so  that  the  number  of  tyrants  has  probably  been  multiplied 
threefold,  in  the  revolutions  which  Venice  has  experienced.  The  ta- 
bles of  the  present  occupants  were  spread  with  green  baize,  and  fur- 
nished with  brazen  ink-stands,  looking  much  like  a  corporation  meet- 
ing. In  an  adjoining  room,  inquisitions  were  made.  It  communicates 
by  a  dark  narrow  passage  with  a  third  apartment,  whence  the  accused 
came  to  whisper  a  defence  of  himself,  or  an  implication  of  others  in 
the  ear  of  the  inquisitors,  stationed  in  little  boxes,  resembling  the 
confessories  in  Catholic  churches.  Such  was  the  scene  of  some  of 
the  blackest  crimes  and  the  most  appalling  tyranny,  to  be  found  in  the 
pages  of  history.  As  the  revolution  has  terminated,  it  is  difficult  to 
say,  whether  the  subversion  of  the  Venetian  government  was  a  curse 
or  a  blessing.  It  is  certain,  that  the  city  was  never  so  poor  and  degra- 
ded as  it  is  at  present. 

The  Bridge  of  Sighs  is  an  arched  and  covered  gallery,  extending 
across  a  canal,  between  the  Ducal  Palace  and  a  Prison,  on  the  oppo- 
site bank.  It  is  perhaps  thirty  feet  in  length,  and  twenty  above  the 
water.  Two  heavy  grated  windows  furnish  the  only  light.  The  pas- 
sage leading  from  the  Palace  to  the  Bridge  is  narrow,  crooked,  and 
dark.  A  solitary  lamp  glimmers  on  the  wall,  night  and  day,  to  light 
the  footsteps  of  the  visitant  through  the  gloomy  labyrinth.  It  seems 
still  to  be  the  avenue  to  the  Bridge  of  Sighs  ;  for  while  we  were  gro- 
ping our  way  through  its  mazes,  the  clanking  of  chains  was  heard  in 
the  cells,  and  two  criminals  came  out  of  the  prison  in  their  shirt-sleeves, 
with  manacles  upon  their  hands,  and  faces  like  daemons.  A  guide 
lighted  his  taper  and  conducted  us  into  the  Cimmerian  regions,  beneath 
the  pavement  of  the  Ducal  Palace,  forming  the  dungeons  in  which 
state  convicts  were  confined  and  secretly  executed. 

The  cells  are  eighteen  in  number,  ten  or  twelve  feet  in  length,  and 
six  or  seven  in  breadth,  arched  at  top,  with  a  small  aperture  in  front. 
They  are  built  in  double  tiers,  one  above  another.  The  lower  range 
is  on  a  level  with  the  water  in  the  canal,  and  the  dip  of  the  oar  was 
heard  through  the  partition  wall.    In  the  stones  on  the  sides  of  the 


LKTTEKS  FROM  EUROPE.         449 

passage  are  little  niches,  made  to  receive  bars  extended  across,  on 
which  convicts  were  hanged  or  strangled  to  death  ;  and  others,  in 
which  executioners  set  their  lamps,  the  smoke  of  which  has  blackened 
the  wall.  The  pavement  is  perforated  with  three  holes,  communica- 
ting with  the  canal,  to  draw  off  the  blood  shed  in  quartering  other  cri- 
minals ;  and  on  the  left,  iii  a  door,  through  which  the  bodies  were 
thrown  into  boats,  to  be  taken  away  for  interment.  The  inscriptions 
quoted  in  a  note  to  the  4th  Canto  of  Childe  Harold,  were  pointed  out 
to  us  ;  and  Byron  or  Ilobhouse,  as  the  case  may  be,  has  given  a  very 
accurate  account  of  the  horrors  of  these  dungeons. 

Opposite  the  Ducal  Palace  is  the  Mint,  which  we  visited  and  saw  a 
host  of  workmen  forging  silver  bars,  and  coining  ducats.  The  pro- 
cess is  slow  and  capable  of  many  improvements ;  but  in  a  country 
•where  labour  is  so  cheap,  it  is  no  object  to  facilitate  and  expedite  me- 
chanical operations.  This  is  the  only  estabhshment  of  the  kind  in  the 
Austro-Italian  dominions  ;  and  in  no  other  place,  I  suspect,  do  the 
subjects  of  the  Viceroy  make  money.  We  went  through  the  long 
range  of  palaces  bordering  upon  the  Square  of  St.  Mark,  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Emperor  of  Austria,  when  he  is  at  Venice.  The 
saloons  are  neatly  finished,  but  the  furniture  was  strewed  over  the 
lloors,  and  the  collection  of  the  works  of  art  is  contemptible.  In  the 
course  of  a  long  walk,  seldom  interrupted  by  any  object  of  curiosity, 
we  found  the  room  in  which  Napoleon  lived,  during  his  residence  in 
this  city.  It  looks  out  upon  a  pretty  garden  in  the  rear.  There  is  a 
hole  in  the  window-sash,  which  he  cut  with  his  penknife,  and  inserted 
a  peg,  whence  he  suspended  a  small  shaving-glass. 

An  excursion   to  the  Public  Garden  furnished  a  more  prominent 
memorial  of  the  same  great  man,  under  whose  direction  this  beautiful 
promenade  was  laid  out,  planted,  and  embellished.     It  affords  almost 
the  only  green  thing,  except  sea-weed  and  window-blinds,  to  be  found 
in  Venice  ;  and  its  walks  as  well  as  its  verdure  are  delightful.     Artifi- 
cial mounts,  shaded  by  a  young  growth  of  trees,  and  overlooking  the 
neighbouring  waters,  have  been  erected  in  several  places  ;  and  a  neat 
coffee-house  supplies  visitants  with  refreshments.     A  handsome  flight 
of  steps  in  front  forms  a  landing  for  gondolas,  and  a  wide  avenue  con- 
nects it  with  the  Square  of  St.  Mark.     The  fashionable  hour  for  the 
promenade  is  from  5  to  6  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.     In  taking  a  turn 
or  two  through  the  alleys,  we  saw  two  aged  Greeks  walking  together. 
Both  are  exiles.     One   of  them   was  a  patriarch  of  the  church.     He 
looked  like  another  Belisarius,  with  his  hoary  locks  and  long  beard. 
Ilis  companion  was  a!.«o  an  ecclesiastic,  and  appeared  to  be  very  fond 
VOL.  ir.  .')7 


450        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

of  botany,  as  he  paused  to  examine  every  plant  and  flower  in  the  gar- 
den.    They  were  conversing  in  the  language  of  their  country. 

The  Greek  exiles  are  numerous  at  Venice.  In  passing  the  arcades 
at  St.  Mark's,  we  frequently  saw  groups  of  them  smoking,  sipping  cof- 
fee, playing  chess  and  cards.  They  seem  to  lead  an  indolent  hfe,  per- 
haps because  they  can  find  nothing  to  do.  They  have  a  large  hand- 
some chapel  in  the  city.  It  differs  very  little  in  construction,  furniture, 
or  ornaments  from  the  ordinary  churches  of  Italy,  except  that  all  the 
young  females  are  secreted  behind  a  screen  in  the  gallery,  after  the 
manner  of  the  Jewish  synagogues.  The  mode  of  worship  is  nearly 
the  same  as  that  of  the  Roman  CathoHcs.  I  examined  the  service.  It 
is  comprised  in  a  small  quarto,  less  voluminous  than  that  of  the  Ro- 
mish church,  and  consists  of  the  prayers,  creeds,  and  homilies  of  St. 
Chrysostom,  arranged  in  double  columns,  in  the  Greek  and  Latin  lan- 
guages. The  number  of  the  congregation  is  about  one  thousand, 
embracing  all  the  residents  at  Venice.  Its  officers  are  subject  to  the 
Patriarch  of  Constantinople.  There  was  an  intelligent,  animated,  and 
agreeable  young  priest  in  the  church,  who  read  over  with  me  a  consi- 
derable part  of  the  service.  He  is  a  fine  scholar,  and  pronounces  his 
own  language  or  rather  that  of  his  ancestors,  as  well  as  the  Latin,  with 
great  elegance.  A  seminary  for  the  instruction  of  youth  is  con- 
nected with  the  chapel  ;  but  amidst  the  poverty  and  oppression  of  the 
society,  education  is  too  much  neglected.  There  are,  however,  some 
wealthy  individuals  among  them.  The  first  banker  in  the  city  is  a  na. 
tive  of  one  of  the  Greek  Islands,  and  his  dealings  with  us  proved  him 
to  be  an  adept  in  trade.  He  first  paid  an  order  from  Florence,  in 
small  Austrian  coins,  and  then  refused  to  change  them  for  dollars, 
without  a  quarter  per  cent,  advance. 

A  visit  to  a  brig  of  war,  lying  in  the  harbour,  afforded  us  an  oppor- 
tunity of  seeing  Turks  as  well  as  Greeks.  It  was  ascertained  on  in- 
quiry, that  the  vessel  was  built  in  New- York,  and  has  been  at  Venice 
ready  for  sea  some  three  or  four  years.  The  mate  had  been  in  our 
city,  and  is  well  acquainted  with  its  localities.  Among  others  on 
board,  we  saw  an  Algerine,  who  had  a  fine  classical  face,  with  a  large 
black  and  piercing  eye.  He  was  almost  dark  enough  to  pass  for  an 
Othello.  One  of  the  crew  was  a  Tunisian.  He  had  a  pecuHar  cast 
of  features,  and  to  our  surprise  was  light  complexioned.  The  mate 
treated  us  with  courtesy,  and  showed  us  whatever  there  was  to  be 
seen  in  his  ship. 


LETTERS  FJIOM  EUROPE  4fil 

LETTER  LXXXVr. 

VENICE    CONCLUDED — OLD    ARSENAL — NAVY     YARD— BUCENTAUR — EX- 
CURSION    TO    THE    LIDO ARMENIAN     SCHOOL CHURCHES TOMB    OF 

TITIAN — PALACES  AND  PICTURES ACADEMY  OF  FINE    ARTS — MAUSO- 
LEUM OF  C ANOVA — AMUSEMENTS — THEATRE. 

September^  1826. 

Next  to  St.  Mfirk's  and  its  attendant  buildinj^s,  the  most  interesting 
object  at  Venice  is  the  old  Arsenal,  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the 
city.  At  its  entrance  are  four  colossal  lions  in  Parian  marble.  They 
were  brought  from  Athens  and  the  Pir<Eus  by  the  Venetians  as  trophies, 
in  the  age  of  the  Repubhc.  One  of  them  is  a  beautiful  specimen  of 
sculpture,  said  to  have  been  made  to  commemorate  the  battle  of  Ma- 
rathon. The  other  three  appeared  to  be  ill  proportioned,  long,  gaunt, 
and  spiritless.  In  front  stands  another  red  mast,  similar  to  those 
already  described.  It  is  embossed  with  metallic  emblems,  and  inscri- 
bed to  one  of  the  heroes  of  the  Republic.  A  washerwoman  had 
hung  her  coarse  drapery  round  the  escutcheons  of  Falescus,  but  she 
very  kindly  removed  them  without  solicitation,  to  enable  us  to  read  the 
inscriptions. 

The  portals  of  the  Arsenal  are  lofty,  and  enriched  with  a  hundred 
trophies,  taken  in  the  wars  of  the  Venetians  with  the  Turks  and  the 
Barbary  Powers.  But  the  double-headed  eagle  of  Austria  now  perches 
upon  the  spoils,  brought  home  in  the  triumphant  navies  of  the  old  re- 
publicans, and  the  bust  of  the  Emperor  is  the  presiding  genius  of  a 
place,  consecrated  by  the  fame  of  Dandalo  and  his  associates  in  arms. 
A  guard  of  soldiers  from  the  Danube  were  stretched  out  upon  the 
benches,  sleeping  away  the  last  night's  debauch  ;  and  we  were  detain- 
ed more  than  half  an  hour  at  the  door  with  our  passports,  before  ad- 
mission was  granted.  The  guide  first  took  us  into  the  Armory,  or 
more  properly  the  Museum  of  the  Arsenal,  occupying  two  large  halls 
filled  with  a  great  variety  of  the  implements  of  war,  partly  invented  by 
the  Venetians,  and  partly  captured  from  tluir  enemies. 

Among  a  thousand  other  things,  are  guns  and  cannon  of  a  curious 
construction,  used  by  the  Doges  in  celebrating  their  victories,  as  well 
as  in  meeting  the  foe — mortars  for  throwing  stones  a  foot  in  diameter, 
employed  with  cfliect  against  the  Genoese,  by  which  one  of  the  Doriaa 
was  killed  near  Venice — scimetars,  pikes,  small  arms  of  all  kinds,  and 
banners  won  from  vanquished  nations.  The  standards  have  crests  of 
horse-hair,  with  halberds  at  the  top  of  the  flag-staflT,  which  give  them  a 


452  LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE. 

martial  appearance.  Some  of  the  muskets  were  fired  by  matches,  tlie 
machinery  for  hghting  which  is  here  to  be  seen.  Helmets  and  ancient 
armour  of  every  description  are  suspended  from  the  Gothic  pillars, 
which  support  the  ceiling. 

In  the  most  conspicuous  part  of  the  Armory  stands  the  bust  of  the 
Emperor  of  Austria,  with  a  long  Latin  inscription  on  the  wall  behind 
it,  the  purport  of  which  is,  that  the  Venetians  built  these  halls  and  en- 
riched them  with  the  spoils  of  Syria  and.  the  East ;  that  now  they  are 
under  the  guardian  care  of  Francis  I.  who  has  given  peace  to  his  sub- 
jects and  to  the  world.  In  another  part  of  the  hall,  the  titles  of  the 
Emperor,  amounting  to  something  more  than  a  score,  are  formally  dis- 
played in  large  letters  upon  separate  placards,  resembling  fire-screens, 
and  placed  in  a  semicircular  alcove,  with  the  imperial  bust  in  the 
midst.  The  Venetian  cannot  move  a  foot  without  being  reminded  of 
his  degradation.  Even  the  old  Custode,  (who  was  far  from  being  an 
Argus,  as  he  had  but  one  eye  instead  of  a  hundred,)  seemed  to  feel  a 
melancholy  pride  and  pleasure,  in  alluding  to  the  achievements  and 
glories  of  other  ages.  Things  were  thus  and  thus  in  the  days  of  the 
republic.  Three  thousand  Venetians  were  then  employed  in  preparing 
armaments,  whose  places  are  now  occupied  by  a  handful  of  foreign 
mercenaries. 

We  visited  every  department  of  the  Arsenal,  which  is  two  miles  and 
a  half  in  circuit.  It  is  one  of  the  finest  Navy-Yards  I  have  ever  seen, 
not  exceptmg  Toulon  itself.  The  water  is  of  sufllcient  depth  to  float 
the  largest  ships  ;  and  the  docks  are  surrounded  with  substantial  quays, 
covered  by  acres  of  roofed  buildings,  supported  by  stone  and  brick 
arches.  Vessels  are  drawn  up  beneath  them,  and  the  workmen  may 
pursue  their  labours  with  comfort,  in  all  kinds  of  weather.  Several 
large  ships  were  upon  the  stocks,  and  others  were  lying  in  the  docks. 
The  foundation  on  which  the  keel  is  planted  in  building  is  of  stone. 
A  good  deal  of  timber  was  strewed  over  the  Yard,  and  some  bustle 
was  observed  in  the  smiths'  shops  and  rope-walks.  The  port  is  closed 
towards  the  sea  by  a  noble  gate,  made  under  the  direction  of  Napoleon, 
who  introduced  many  improvements. 

In  the  depository  of  models,  occupying  an  extensive  hall,  but  not  so 
well  filled  as  that  of  Toulon,  the  most  interesting  article  is  an  exact 
copy  of  the  old  Bucentaur,  so  famous  in  the  annals  of  Venice,  as  the 
state-boat  which  used  to  convey  the  Doge  and  Senate  to  the  nuptials 
of  the  Adriatic  with  its  mistress,  as  well  as  to  other  splendid  fetes.  It 
had  two  decks,  one  for  the  gondoliers  and  the  other  for  passengers.  It 
is  pierced  for  fifty  oars  ;  but  only  twenty-one  upon  a  side  were  used. 
In  its  best  estate^  it  was  probably  inferior  to  the  Royal  Yacht  of  Eng- 


LETTERS  FROM   EUROPE.  4^3 

land,  or  Cleopatra's  Barge  of  our  own  country.  On  the  deck  is  a  staff' 
for  hoisting  a  banner,  and  the  bow  carries  the  lions  of  St.  Mark.  The 
model  is  completely  equipped,  and  exhibits  a  perfect  idea  of  the  origi- 
nal, which  was  laid  up  in  ordinary,  after  the  conquest  of  the  Frenchin 
1 796.  We  visited  tlie  dock  in  which  the  Bucentaur  used  to  lie.  Frag- 
ments of  her  are  still  preserved,  suspended  from  the  walls  of  a  ship- 
house  by  cords.  One  side  of  the  boat  is  nearly  entire.  It  is  painted 
red,  and  embossed  with  gilt  emblems  in  bold  relief.  In  the  same  dock 
is  the  state  barge  built  for  Napoleon,  and  now  transferred  to  his  impe- 
rial successor  :  also  a  boat  belonging  to  the  Grand  Dutchess  of  Parma, 
the  late  Empress  of  France. 

From  the  Navy-Yard,  we  crossed  the  Lagune,  a  distance  of  a  mile 
or  more,  to  the  Lido  di  Palestrina,  the  outlmes  of  which  have  already 
been  described.  The  inside  is  lined  with  a  perpendicular  wall  of  brick 
and  stone.  We  walked  across  tlie  peninsula,  which  is  less  than  half  a 
mile  in  width.  Much  of  it  appears  to  be  the  natural  surface,  compo- 
sed of  moderate  swells,  coated  with  grass  and  wild  bushes.  The  sum- 
,  mit  of  the  ridge  presents  a  glorious  view  of  the  Adriatic  on  one  side, 
and  of  Venice  on  the  other,  with  the  RhfPtian  Alps  beyond.  In  cross- 
ing the  neck,  we  accidentally  stumbled  upon  an  old  cemetery  of  the 
.lews,  whose  very  dust  is  kept  distinct  trom  the  rest  of  mankind.  The 
rude  slabs  are  engraven  with  epitaphs  in  the  Hebraic  character,  and 
Jialf  buried  in  the  green  sward.  We  had  a  ramble  on  the  beach  of  the 
Adriatic,  and  amused  ourselves  with  collecting  shells.  The  waves 
here  come  in  delightfully,  and  produce  a  murmur  along  the  shore  ;  but 
the  water  is  not  so  beautiful  as  on  the  opposite  side  of  Italy.  This 
beach,  which  is  perfectly  hard,  was  the  solitary  Corso  of  Lord  Byron, 
during  his  residence  of  two  years  in  Italy.  He  ferried  his  horses  over 
in  a  gondola,  and  came  here  daily  for  exercise. 

The  extremity  of  the  Lido  is  strongly  defended  by  a  fortress,  with  a 
double  moat,  extending  quite  across  the  neck.  Beyond  it  stands  the 
church  of  St.  Nicholas,  to  which  we  in  vain  sought  admission,  as  the 
sexton  was  not  to  be  found,  and  the  doors,  contrary  to  the  usage  in 
Italy,  were  closed,  probably  to  keep  out  the  Austrian  soldiers  stationed 
m  the  vicinity.  The  disaj)pointmeiit  occasioned  some  regret,  as  in  this 
chapel  mass  was  said,  at  the  annual  ceremony  of  marrying  Venice  to 
the  Adriatic.  The  wedding  party,  consisting  of  the  Doge  and  the 
dignitaries  of  church  and  state,  used  to  embark  in  the  Bucentaur  from 
the  Ducal  Palace,  proceed  to  the  Lido,  and  there  throw  bridal  rings 
into  the  sea,  taking  care  to  attach  strings  to  them,  when  they  were  of 
any  value.  Prayers  were  then  offered  up  at  the  shrine  of  St.  Nicholas, 
nnd  the  remainder  of  the  day  was  devoted  to  festivity.     One  of  the 


454        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

prettiest  pictures  I  saw  at  Venice,  represents  a  fisherman  in  the  act  oC 
bringing  a  reclaimed  bridal  ring  to  the  Doge  and  his  council,  convened 
in  their  court  dresses. 

In  returning  from  the  Lido,  we  touched  at  the  Island  of  St.  Lazaro, 
to  visit  the  establishment  of  the  Armenians.  One  of  the  fraternity 
met  us  upon  the  steps  of  the  little  quay,  where  there  is  a  harbour  in 
miniature,  with  gondolas  lying  at  anchor  ;  the  only  fleet  of  this  peaceful 
band  of  philanthropists.  The  librarian,  who  came  to  welcome  us  to 
the  Island,  was  dressed  in  a  monastic  habit,  wearing  a  long,  thick,  glossy 
beard,  expressing  great  mildness  in  his  features,  and  much  kindness 
and  courtesy  in  his  manners.  He  conducted  us  to  the  chapel,  which 
is  remarkable  for  its  neatness  and  elegance.  It  contains  several  hand- 
some sepulchral  monuments.  One  of  them  is  designed  for  a  person 
not  yet  dead.  Thence  we  ascended  to  the  Library,  which  is  small,  but 
very  select,  and  rich  in  manuscripts.  Among  the  greatest  curiosities, 
are  a  copy  of  the  Scrij)tures  with  splendid  illuminations,  and  a  Prayer- 
book  in  thirty  languages.  The  librarian  read  Greek  and  Armenian  ta 
us.  He  is  deep  in  the  dialects.  His  own  tongue  much  resembles  the 
Hebrew  in  sound. 

We  visited  the  printing-office,  where  three  men  were  at  the  press, 
striking  off  an  edition  of  Telemachus,  in  the  Armenian  language. 
Milton's  works  and  a  part  of  Lord  Byron  have  here  been  translated 
and  published.  Most  of  the  books  are  sold  at  Constantinople  ;  others 
at  Trieste  and  Smyrna.  A  shop  is  connected  with  the  establishment, 
where  visitants  tnay  purchase  rare  works.  This  society  was  founded 
by  Mechitar,  a  man  of  profound  learning  and  active  philanthropy. 
The  school  which  still  has  a  high  reputation,  is  confined  chiefly  to  young 
Armenians  ;  but  others  may  avail  themselves  of  its  advantages.  All 
the  buildings,  gardens,  and  grounds  exhibit  much  neatness  and  taste, 
and  the  inmates  appear  to  lead  a  quiet,  happy  life. 

The  Lunatic  Asylum  stands  upon  a  neighbouring  island.  It  ap- 
peared to  be  full  of  inmates  in  their  maddest  moods.  As  our  gondola 
glided  under  the  walls,  the  most  hideous  and  appalling  siirieks  issued 
from  the  windows,  as  if  some  one  was  undergoing  the  keenest  torture. 
Others  were  singing,  or  convulsed  with  the  maniac  laugh.  Such  a 
scene  presented  few  temptations,  to  attract  us  to  the  shore. 

On  our  way  back  to  town,  we  called  at  the  church  of  Santa  Maria 
Maggiore,  standing  at  the  Porta  Franca,  on  a  separate  island.  Bales 
of  merchandize  blocked  up  the  quay.  The  interior  of  this  church,  as 
well  as  the  front  facing  the  water,  combines  simplicity  with  grandeur. 
A  group  of  contemptible  paste-board  saints  detract  somewhat  from  the 
a^greeable  impressions  of  the  visitant.     In  the  cloisters  of  an  adjoining 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  45-; 

convent,  now  used  as  a  store-house,  are  some  of  tlic  finest  specimens 
of  the  architecture  of  Palladio.  Another  sample  of  his  best  style  is 
found  in  the  Chiesa  di  Redentore,  which  presents  a  noble  front.  The 
tombs  of  distinguished  men,  trophies,  and  inscriptions,  impart  an  in- 
terest to  most  of  the  Venetian  churches,  beyond  what  is  to  be  found  in 
architectural  beauty,  and  no  common  splendour  in  the  embellishments. 
We  visited  a  score  of  them  at  least,  and  none,  without  finding  some- 
thing to  admire.  Among  the  most  splendid  of  those  not  already  men- 
tioned, is  Santa  Maria  della  Salute,  the  architecture  of  which  is  in 
excellent  taste.  It  contains  several  of  Titian's  pictures,  and  the  high 
altar,  of  white  marble  and  free  from  finery,  is  admired  for  its  simple 
elegance. 

In  the  church  of  Franciscans,  we  found  the  tomb  of  Titian  himself. 
He  was  buried  beneath  the  pavement,  near  one  of  the  altars.  The 
inscription  is  as  follows  : 

Qui  giace  il  gran  Titiano  di  Vicelli, 
Emulatore  de'  Zeusi  e  degli  Apelli. 

Here  lies  the  great  Titian,  the  rival  of  Zcuxis  and  Apelles. 

In  the  same  church  are  the  tombs  of  the  Foscari,  and  many  other 
piles  of  monumental  marble.  One  of  them  is  ornamented  with  the 
statues  of  two  slaves,  which  Canova,  a  native  of  this  city,  copied  as 
his  first  work,  besides  falling  in  love  during  the  process. 

The  church  of  Santa  Maria  di  Rosario,  in  the  same  neighbourhood, 
is  one  of  the  richest  I  have  ever  seen.  A  canopy  over  the  altar  is 
supported  by  six  pillars  of  pure  lapis-lazuli ;  and  there  are  several 
large  columns  of  Sicilian  jasper.  The  churches  in  general  at  Venice 
surpass  in  splendour  those  of  any  other  city,  except  a  kw  at  Rome 
and  Genoa.  The  cause  of  this  may  be  found  in  the  extended  com- 
merce of  the  Republic,  and  the  wealth  brought  from  the  East,  as  the 
fruits  both  of  trade  and  conquest,  no  inconsiderable  portion  of  which 
was  consecrated  to  religious  purposes,  by  the  prevailing  piety  of  the 
age.  Another  illustration  of  this  remark  may  be  found  in  the  chapel 
of  the  Jesuits,  which  is  as  sumptuous  as  can  be  imagined.  The  walls 
are  of  white  marble,  inlaid  with  verde  antique,  and  even  the  pave- 
ment, like  that  of  St.  Mark's,  is  composed  of  precious  stones.  A 
tabernacle  on  the  high  altar  is  of  lapis-lazuli,  set  in  Parian  marble.  It 
was  adorned  by  order  of  the  last  Doge  of  Venice ;  and  one  of  his 
predecessors,  who  built  the  Rialto,  has  here  a  superb  tomb,  amidst 
those  of  other  distinguised  men.  Here  is  a  fine  piece  of  sculpture, 
representing  the  Archangel  Michael  holding  the  Devil  in  chains. 


456  LETTERS  FROM   EUROPE. 

Most  of  the  Doges  rest  in  St.  Paul's  and  St.  John's.  Their  proud 
monuments,  composed  according  to  the  inscriptions,  "  ex  hostium 
manuhiis"  are  ranged  round  the  Gothic  walls,  interspersed  with 
several  equestrian  statues.  One  of  the  republican  generals,  on  a 
spirited  charger,  guards  the  entrance.  Here  we  found  the  original 
picture  of  Peter  the  Martyr,  by  Titian.  In  the  chapel  which  contains 
Tintoretto's  great  picture,  the  Adoration  of  Gold,  I  saw  a  shrine  with 
an  inscription  which  runs  thus : — "  A  privileged  altar — here  they  every 
day  liberate  the  souls  of  the  dead  from  Purgatory."  I  read  in  another 
church,  which  we  visited  to  see  the  tomb  of  Paul  Veronese,  a  hand- 
bill posted  up  on  the  inside  of  a  confessory,  comprising  a  list  of  offences, 
which  are  confessed  to  the  priest.  The  enumeration  embraces  among 
others,  blasphemy  against  God,  the  Saviour,  the  Madonna,  or  any 
saint ;  sodomy,  and  "  copula  cum  infidelibus."  Loves  with  the 
faithful  are  not  prohibited.  It  is  but  justice,  however,  to  remark,  that 
the  blackest  and  most  unnatural  crimes  are  interdicted  in  this  little 
directory,  and  the  restraining  influence  of  confessions  upon  the  lower 
classes,  in  many  instances,  cannot  be  doubted.  Notes  were  taken  of 
half  a  dozen  other  churches ;  but  my  readers  must  by  this  time  be  tired 
of  "counting  steeples." 

The  Palaces  of  Venice,  rich  as  some  of  them  are  both  in  architect- 
ure and  the  contents  of  their  galleries,  shall  be  despatched  in  few 
words.  Of  the  countless  number,  the  Palazzo  Babarigo,  once  the 
residence  of  Titian,  and  still  the  depository  of  some  of  his  finest 
pictures,  is  by  far  the  most  interesting.  His  Magdalene  produced  a 
very  strong  impression  upon  my  mind,  and  gave  me  a  most  exalted 
idea  of  his  powers  as  an  artist.  It  appeared  to  me  a  more  just  con- 
ception and  a  more  forcible  expression  of  the  character  of  the  penitent, 
than  I  had  found  in  any  other  picture  of  the  same  description.  Her 
eyes  are  raised  to  heaven,  swollen  and  red  with  weeping  :  her  hand  is 
pressed  upon  her  bosom  :  her  golden  tresses  descend  in  negligent 
tangles  to  her  breast  :  remorse  and  sorrow,  absorbing  all  other 
thoughts,  are  depicted  in  the  carelessness  of  her  drapery,  as  well  as 
in  the  pathos  of  her  face  :  a  book  is  open  before  her,  and  the  image 
of  death  is  at  her  side.  As  in  a  deep  tragedy  you  forget  the  author, 
the  actor,  and  the  fiction,  and  seem  to  mingle  with  real  persons  ;  so 
here,  the  skill  of  Titian  is  not  the  object  of  admiration,  but  the  feeling^ 
become  interested  in  the  pathetic  grief  of  the  penitent. 

His  Venus,  in  this  palace,  far  transcends  in  my  estimation  that  in 
the  Florentine  Gallery,  from  the  same  pencil.  Her  limbs  are  modestly 
veiled :  Love  has  just  presented  a  mirror  to  her :  the  moment  she 
discovers  the  luxuriance  of  her  charms,  she  presses  a  scarf  upon  hev 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         io7 

bosom,  with  the  agitation  and  blush  of  female  delicacy.  His  Prome- 
theus is  far  more  attractive,  than  the  mangled  giant  of  Salvator  Rosa, 
alluded  to  in  a  former  letter.  His  picture  of  Venice,  represented  in 
the  character  of  an  Empress,  bearing  a  sceptre  and  the  laurel,  with 
the  diadem  upon  her  brow,  and  her  waist  girt  with  a  golden  zone,  is 
equally  creditable  to  his  skill  and  his  patriotism.  These  and  other 
great  works  served  to  correct  my  crude  opinions  of  the  master  of  the 
Venetian  school. 

We  went  to  the  Pisani  Palace,  to  see  one  of  the  most  celebrated 
pictures  of  Paul  Veronese — Alexander  and  the  Family  of  Darius.  It 
is  a  highly  finished  production,  but  not  interesting,  at  least  it  was  not 
to  us.  The  Palazzo  Manfresi  contains  the  most  extensive  gallery  at 
Venice.  Our  cicerone  with  a  nationality  of  feeling,  which  appears  to 
be  universal,  pronounced  it  "  the  finest  collection  in  all  Italy  !"  He 
probably  had  never  been  at  Florence  or  Rome.  There  are,  however, 
many  works  of  merit,  scattered  among  much  rubbish  in  the  twelve 
rooms.  A  cartoon  of  Noah  coming  out  of  the  Ark  is  ascribed  to 
Raphael.  Guido  has  painted  Lucretia,  with  the  knife  in  her  hand, 
about  to  commit  suicide^  and  not  plunged  in  her  bosom — a  representa- 
tion of  the  subject,  which  exactly  accords  with  my  ideas.  Carlo 
Dolci  has  seated  St.  Cecilia  at  a  piano,  in  the  guise  of  a  beautiful 
woman.  It  is  a  bright  thought,  happily  expressed.  A  portrait  of 
the  mother  of  Titian,  by  her  immortal  son,  evinces  the  delicacy  of  his 
pencil,  as  well  as  his  filial  piety.  Tliese  rooms  contain  some  interest- 
ing organic  remains,  chiefly  of  fishes  in  a  very  perfect  state  ;  as  also 
a  mineralogical  cabinet,  embracing  many  varieties  of  coral.  At  the 
door  of  the  palace,  Toretti,  the  father  of  Canova's  master,  presented 
himself  to  us,  as  an  object  of  charity.  He  is  a  short  slender  old  man, 
now  at  the  age  of  eighty-five,  with  a  white  head,  but  retaining  amidst 
his  poverty  a  cheerful  countenance,  and  a  becoming  pride  for  the 
celebrity  of  his  son's  pupil. 

The  Grimani  Palace  contains  a  group  of  family  portraits  by  Titian, 
in  his  most  finished  style.  Among  the  number  arc  a  Doge  and  three 
Cardinals.  The  former,  in  the  ornaments  of  his  palace,  has  converted 
two  of  the  Roman  emperors  into  caryatides.  One  of  Ihcm  is  Caracalla, 
who  is  exactly  fit  to  be  degraded  into  such  a  servile  oflice.  The 
rarest  articles  are  the  head  of  a  Faun  by  Michael  Angelo,  and  a  statue 
of  Marcus  Agrippa,  said  to  be  the  only  true  likeness  extant.  Who  is 
the  arbiter  in  such  a  case  ?  The  cabinet  of  antiquities  is  rich  and 
various.  We  here  saw  a  table,  which  cost  30,000  ducats.  It  is  inlaid 
with  lapis-lazuli  and  other  precious  gems. 

We  visited  tlie  Academy  of  Fine  Arts,  principally  for  the  purpose 

VOL.  u.  68 


458        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

of  examining  the  Assumption,  the  chef  d'ceuvres  of  Titian.  It  is 
worthy  of  all  the  praises,  which  connoisseurs  have  lavished.  The 
figures  are  about  filly  in  number,  disposed  on  a  field  thirty  feet  in 
height,  and  fifteen  or  twenty  in  breadth.  Near  the  centre  of  the 
canvass,  the  Virgin  appears  seated  upon  the  clouds,  with  throngs  of 
angels  above,  and  groups  of  admiring  and  adoring  spectators  below. 
The  composition  is  as  perfect  as  the  colouring  ;  and  both  do  justice  to 
the  grandeur  of  the  subject.  There  are  many  other  good  pictures  in 
the  o-allery  ;  but  the  visitant  will  give  them  a  glance,  and  return  to  the 
Assumption.  The  Academy  contains  a  model  for  the  tomb  of  Titian, 
by  Canova,  which  he  did  not  live  to  see  completed  ;  and  by  its  side  is 
now  placed  the  model  of  his  own  monument,  the  expense  of  which  is 
estimated  at  five  thousand  Louis-d'ors.  Two-thirds  of  that  sum  have 
already  been  raised  by  subscription,  and  the  books  are  open  for  the 
remainder.  The  proud  mausoleum  is  to  consist  of  a  pyramid,  with 
suitable  embellishments,  and  the  porphyry  urn,  which  contains  the 
heart  of  the  immortal  sculptor,  bearing  the  following  inscriptions  : 

"  Cor  magni  Canovse." 
«'  Quod  mutui  amoris  monumentum,  idem  gloriae  incitamentum  siet.'' 

Copies  of  the  Elgin  Marbles  are  deposited  in  one  of  the  apartments 
of  the  Academy,  v.'ith  an  inscription  acknowledging  the  munificence 
of  the  King  of  England,  and  another  compliment  to  his  Majesty,  by 
the  President,  placed  in  a  conspicuous  situation  over  the  door.  The 
custode,  who  conducted  us  through  the  halls,  was  three  years  in  the 
service  of  Lord  Byron,  of  whom  he  related  many  little  anecdotes, 
which  will  not  bear  repetition.  He  stated  that  the  frail  Countess  was 
now  on  a  visit  to  Venice.  She  resides  at  Rome,  and  is  said  to  possess 
few  personal  charms.  Byron  lived  two  years  at  Venice,  occupying 
one  of  the  most  stately  palaces  upon  the  Grand  Canal,  near  the  Post- 
Ofiice.     He  here  wrote  his  series  of  dramatic  poems. 

The  recurrence  of  a  festa  soon  after  our  arrival,  enabled  us  to  wit- 
ness the  fashionable  round  of  amusements,  in  a  city  proverbial  for  its 
o-aiety.  On  such  occasions,  all  the  beauty,  taste,  and  splendour  yet 
left,  may  be  seen  at  two  o'clock  beneath  the  Arcades  of  St.  Mark's. 
The  women  generally  are  less  beautiful  than  those  of  Florence  or 
Rome.  In  dress  they  resemble  the  Bolognese,  frequently  wearing 
the  veil,  though  nothing  loth  to  be  seen.  Vivacity  and  a  love  of 
pleasure  are  depicted  in  their  faces,  as  well  as  in  their  manners. 
Half  of  the  men  are  foreigners — Austrians,  Greeks,  Turks,  and  Jews, 
all  joining  in  the  promenade,  in  their  national  costumes. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  459 

In  tlie  afternoon  we  attemlcd  a  great  Concert  al  tlic  Foundling 
Hospital,  for  the  benefit  ol"  the  inrnatea.  All  the  performers  were 
young  females,  who  had  been  educated  in  the  school  attached  to  this 
institution.  Many  of  tliein  had  beautiful  faces,  and  appeared  like  a 
group  of  angels  thronging  the  orciiestra,  which  was  an  open  gallery 
elevated  at  a  great,  height  from  the  lloor.  They  discoursed  sweet  mu- 
sic, which  descended  in  silver  tones  upon  tlie  ear.  Six  of  them  played 
the  violin,  by  way  of  accompaniment ;  but  such  an  instrument  does 
not  become  females,  and  the  image  detracted  much  from  the  seraphic  j 
choir. 

We  returned  to  St.  Mark's  by  water  in  the  evening.  The  canals 
were  covered  with  gondolas,  filled  with  parties  of  pleasure,  who  were 
abroad  to  enjoy  the  mildness  of  the  air  and  the  splendours  of  the 
moon.  Music  and  mirth  gave  animation  to  the  scene.  In  one  boat 
there  was  a  concert  of  a  dozen  voices,  accompanied  by  a  violin.  The 
airs  were  brisk,  but  wanting  in  melody.  We  were  near  enough  to 
hear  the  words  of  one  of  the  ballads,  the  burden  of  which  was  matri- 
monial felicity.  Our  gondolier  stated,  that  the  party  consisted  of 
washerwomen  and  porters,  who  would  be  compelled  to  toil  hard  all 
tlie  next  day,  to  pay  the  oarsman  and  fiddler.  — > 

At  the  square  of  St.  Mark's,  we  found  an  immense  crowd,  and 
witnessed  a  great  deal  of  buflTooncry,  probably  much  in  the  style  of 
the  Carnival.  The  first  object  that  attracted  attention,  was  a  mounte- 
bank standing  in  the  midst  of  a  tlirong,  in  the  dress  of  a  priest,  with  a 
black  cap  upon  his  head,  a  profusion  of  rings  upon  his  fingers,  and  a 
farthing  candle  in  his  hand.  He  recited  a  long  prospectus  of  what  he 
was  about  to  write  on  scientific  and  literary  subjects,  in  the  character 
of  a  Caleb  Quotem,  and  deliver  for  the  edification  of  the  public.  A 
young  poet,  in  a  more  serious  vein,  walked  back  and  forth  in  front  of 
a  coffee-house,  and  spouted  half  a  dozen  of  his  latest  sonnets,  to  amuse 
a  circle  of  both  sexes,  who  were  all  the  while  eating  ice-creams.  An 
old  ballad-singer,  accompanied  by  a  young  girl  on  the  guitar,  attracted 
another  audience.  The  Austrian  band  played  national  airs,  the  Creeks 
played  cards,  and  others  played  the  fiddle.  It  was  the  oddest  com- 
pound of  amusements,  as  well  as  of  population,  that  I  have  ever  wit- 
nessed. — ' 

We  went  several  evenings  to  the  theatre  of  St.  Benedict,  the  only 
one  open  at  the  time  of  our  visit.  Instead  of  coaches,  you  see  a  licet 
of  gondolas  pressing  to  the  doors.  Each  of  the  boats  carries  a  lamp, 
and  the  gondolier,  by  day  as  well  as  by  night,  gives  warning  as  he  turns 
a  corner,  by  singing  out,  to  the  right !  or  to  the  left !  as  the  case  may 
1)C.     St.   Benedict  furnishes  few  attrart ions,  except  boxes  filled  with 


460        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

pretty  women.  But  the  orchestra  and  dramatic  corps  united,  can  at- 
ford  more  amusement,  than  the  fiddlers  and  ballad-mongers  of  St. 
Mark's.  Austrian  troops,  under  arms,  are  stationed  in  the  pit  to  keep 
the  audience  in  order.  IMost  of  the  plays  are  translations  from  the 
French  and  German,  even  in  the  native  city  of  Goldoni. 

We  saw  the  sacred  drama  of  Joseph  in  Egypt.  As  it  is  played  here, 
it  becomes  the  greatest  of  all  farces.  The  play  opens  with  the  en- 
trance of  a  caravan  of  Ishmaelites,  who  are  represented  by  files  of 
soldiers  from  the  Danube,  in  green  uniforms.  Josepli,  the  hero,  appears 
in  his  "  coat  of  many  colours,"  as  an  effeminate  stripling,  with  his 
glossy  curls  hanging  about  his  womanish  neck.  His  character  is  en- 
tirely misconceived.  Such  voluptuous  softness  would  have  yielded 
without  importunity  to  the  allurements  of  Potiphar's  wife.  Old  Jacob 
comes  tottering  upon  the  stage,  blind  and  palsied,  supported  by  little 
Benjamin,  in  a  green  short.  His  character  was  personated  by  a  pretty 
donna,  who  lisped  out  sentiments  of  filial  piety,  in  all  the  tenderness 
of  a  sonnet,  and  received  the  snivelling  caresses  of  the  patriarch,  with 
the  same  smirking  face  she  has  probably  worn,  in  responding  to  the 
blandishments  of  less  decrepitude.  Yet  the  roof  of  St.  Benedict  rang 
with  reiterated  shouts  of  applause,  and  with  the  pecuhar  Itahan  groan, 

consisting  of  the  prolonged  sound  of  Oh !  followed  by  a  bravo  ! — 

Simeon,  brotlier  Simeon,  was  clad  in  the  brown  frock  of  a  Franciscan 
monk,  with  his  arms  naked  to  the  elbows.  He  raved  like  a  madman  : 
so  did  Jacob,  who  at  times  was  most  tragical,  seizing  Simeon  by  the 
hair,  and  making  him  bawl  lustily.  Reuben  and  Naphtali  were  in 
flaming  red  robes.  The  piece,  though  intended  to  be  serious,  is  broad 
burlesque  ;  and  none  other  than  a  nation  accustomed  to  treat  the  most 
sacred  subjects  in  a  familiar  manner,  would  tolerate  it  upon  the  stage. 

The  pleasures  of  the  last  three  or  four  days  of  our  visit  to  Venice 
were  greatly  augmented,  by  the  arrival  of  the  American  Charge  from 
Naples,  on  his  way  to  the  North  of  Europe.  The  incidents  of  our 
delightful  excursions  to  Psestum,  Capo  di  Monte,  and  Caserta  were 
freshly  remembered  ;  and  new  scenes  for  recollection  were  found,  in 
our  rambles  over  the  romantic  islands  of  the  Adriatic.  But  Venice 
has  its  Bridge  of  Sighs,  as  well  as  its  sources  of  enjoyment ;  and  it 
was  painful  to  part  for  years,  perhaps  forever,  with  one  who  had  be- 
come so  endeared  to  us,  by  his  social  virtues,  and  his  acts  of  kindness 
and  friendship.  We  took  our  departure  on  the  same  day,  but  in  dif- 
ferent directions,  one  party  being  bound  to  Trieste  and  the  other  to 
Verona. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  4«l 

LETTER  LXXXVII. 

HETUKN  TO  PaDUA EIDE  TO  VICENZA SKETCH  OF  THE    TOWN ARRI- 
VAL AT  VERONA OPERA EXCURSION  TO  LAGO  DI    GARDA PESCHIE- 

RA THE  MINCIO — VIEW  OF  THE  LAKE SERMIONE RELIGIOUS  FES- 
TIVAL  DESCRIPTION    OF    THE     PENINSULA CATULLUS BANDITTI 

SKETCH  OF  VERONA AMPHITHEATRE PUBLIC  PALACE PHILHAR- 
MONIC ACADEMY HOLY  ALLIANCE ^ARCH  OF  VITRUVIU3 — SARCOPHA- 
GUS OF  JULIET TOMBS  OF  THE  SCALIGERS — CHURCHES — GREAT  MEN. 

September,  1826. 

On  the  22d  we  returned  to  Padua.  In  a  dull  city,  the  grass-<Trown 
streets  of  which  had  already  been  scoured  in  search  of  antiquities,  and 
to  which  a  second  visit  could  not  be  avoided,  my  evening  was  divided 
between  another  pilgrimage  to  the  shrine  of  St.  Anthony,  and  a  peru- 
sal of  Livy's  numerous  accounts  of  prodigies,  scattered  through  his 
pages.  Padua  seems  to  have  been  the  scat  of  superstition,  from  the 
earliest  ages  to  the  present  day,  and  even  the  mind  of  the  great  histo- 
rian was  not  free  from  its  influence.  His  miracles  were  scarcely  less 
gross,  than  those  of  the  modern  saint,  to  whom  new  votive  tablets 
have  been  erected  the  present  year.  At  the  hotel  of  the  Golden 
Eagle,  I  found  an  album  almost  as  old  as  Livy.  It  was  begun  in  1771, 
and  is  full  of  great  names.  The  master  of  the  house  gave  us  the  com- 
fortable information,  that  the  road  about  to  be  traversed  is  unsafe  after 
night,  on  account  of  banditti. 

We  took  a  dish  of  tea  next  morning  by  candle-light,  and  about  four 
o'clock  set  out  for  Verona.  Without  the  gate  of  Padua,  a  caravan  of 
market-men  had  encamped  for  the  night,  and  were  waiting  for  the  dawn 
of  day,  to  enter  the  city.  The  repose  of  the  scene  would  be  a  good 
subject  for  the  pencil.  We  had  the  most  novel,  if  not  the  most  splen- 
did sunrise,  I  have  ever  witnessed.  The  orient  was  in  a  blaze,  and  for 
some  minutes  the  trees  appeared,  as  if  their  fohage  had  been  dipped  in 
liquid  gold  of  a  pale  yellow.  There  seemed  to  be  an  absolute  mate- 
riality, and  almost  a  tangibility  in  the  light,  resembling  a  substantial 
coat  of  gilding.  The  phenomenon  must  have  been  owing  to  a  pecu- 
liar state  of  the  atmosphere,  filled  with  dense  vapour  ;  as  the  sun  was 
soon  lost  in  clouds. 

The  road  from  Padua  is  level  and  uniform,  bordered  all  the  way  with 
poplars,  mulberries,  and  vineyards.  We  reached  Vicenza  at  8  o'clock, 
and  obtained  a  good  breakfast,  at  the  sign  of  the  Red  Hat.  Two 
hours  were  busily  occupied  in  looking  at  the  native  city  and  the  archi- 


I 


462  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

tecture  of  Palladio,  in  which  httle  was  Ibuiid  to  call  forth  our  admira- 
tion. The  city  is  three  miles  in  circuit,  and  has  a  population  of  30,000. 
A  visit  was  paid  to  the  modest  mansion  of  the  old  architect.  It  is  of 
the  Ionic  order,  which  seems  to  indicate  his  professional  preference. 
His  own  statue  guards  the  entrance,  holding  a  tablet  inscribed  with  the 
models  of  his  art.  On  the  opposite  side  is  a  full  length  figure,  repre- 
senting his  favourite  science,  bearing  the  square  and  other  appropriate 
emblems.  The  Olympic  Theatre  was  built  hy  ■iilladio,  upon  classic 
models,  resembling  those  found  at  Po.'iipeii.  As  the  originals  had  been 
seen,  less  pleasure  was  derived  from  examining  this  imitation  of  the 
ancients.  The  valet  de  place  took  us  to  the  Palazzo  Pubblico,  and  to 
a  dozen  of  the  dilapidated  buildings  erected  by  Palladio.  At  length 
becoming  fatigued  with  a  succession  of  stucco  fronts,  shattered  and 
pealed  by  the  weather,  we  said  to  the  guide,  call  you  these  palaces  1 
and  begged  him  to  cut  short  his  usual  circuit.  The  high  altar  of  the 
Cathedral  is  approached  by  a  flight  of  thirty  steps  of  Verona  marble. 
A  triumphal  arch  leads  to  the  Campus  Martius,  a  beautiful  green,  irri- 
gated by  the  head-waters  of  the  Brenta.  The  view  of  a  castle  and  of 
the  church  of  Magdalen,  seated  on  the  neighbouring  hills,  was  worth 
all  the  rest  to  be  found  at  Vicenza.  Stones  containing  the  water  of 
crystallization  were  offered  for  sale  ;  but  the  price  was  too  extravagant. 

At  1 1  o'clock  we  resumed  our  journey  towards  Verona.  The  coun- 
try is  rich,  but  wanting  in  variety  of  scenery.  We  crossed  the  Ponte 
Bello,  the  scene  of  one  of  Napoleon's  great  battles,  in  which  some 
of  his  principal  ofliicers  fell.  The  vetturino  would  not  allow  us  time  to 
reconnoitre,  but  hurried  on  to  a  wretched  hotel,  where  he  persisted  in 
pausing  an  hour,  notwithstanding  our  remonstrances.  Finding  the 
room  in  the  basement  little  better  than  the  stable,  in  another  part  of  the 
same  building,  we  went  up  stairs  in  pursuit  of  the  salle-a-manger. 
Here  was  an  unoccupied  apartment,  with  no  other  furniture  than  a 
numerous  collection  of  pictures,  forming  a  gallery,  the  whole  contents 
of  which  probably  did  not  cost  a  piaster.  Contenting  myself  with  a 
bunch  of  grapes  and  a  glass  of  wine,  I  reclined  upon  the  grass,  in  front 
of  a  small  church,  and  read  Catullus. 

Just  at  evening  we  reached  the  banks  of  the  Adige,  which  is  here  a 
large  stream,  winding  through  green  and  luxuriant  borders.  The  show 
of  carriages  upon  the  Corso,  extending  beyond  the  gate,  indicated  our 
approach  to  Verona,  the  ramparts  and  domes  of  which  presented  a 
twihght  view,  by  no  means  deficient  in  magnificence.  Passing  through 
that  part  of  the  town,  which  is  called  Veronetta,  and  crossing  the 
bridge  of  the  Adige,  which  unites  it  with  the  other  section  upon  the 


LETTERS  FROM  ETJROPE.  4G3 

right  bank,  we  obtained  good  accommodations  at  the  hotel  of  the  Two 
Towers. 

The  evening  was  passed  at  the  Opera.  Among  the  performers  was 
a  Miss  Barca,  a  Veronese  girl,  whose  melody  of  voice  infinitely  sur- 
passed any  thing  of  the  kind  I  have  witnessed  in  Italy.  Her  person 
is  not  good,  nor  her  face  pretty,  nor  her  action  graceful ;  but  her  vocal 
powers  are  unrivalled.  She  warbles  without  effort,  in  all  the  sweetness 
and  plaintive  tenderness  of  the  nightingale.  The  tones  appear  to  drop 
spontaneously  from  her  hps,  breathing  the  very  soul  of  music,  and  pos- 
sessing an  innate  pathos,  beyond  the  reach  of  art.  She  has  been  upon 
the  stage  but  a  few  months,  and  her  style  of  singing  is  natural,  easy, 
and  unaflected.  In  Paris,  London,  or  New-York,  she  would  realize  a 
fortune,  in  a  few  seasons.  I  went  a  second  time  to  hear  her  in  the 
same  part,  and  my  first  impressions  were  fully  confirmed.  In  a  coffee- 
house near  the  theatre,  two  women  were  playing  cards,  in  a  room 
full  of  men,  and  had  some  dispute  about  the  trump. 

The  day  after  our  arrival  was  occupied  in  an  excursion  to  Lago  di 
Garda,  or  the  ancient  Lake  of  Benacus,  the  foot  of  which  is  eighteen 
miles  from  Verona,  on  the  great  road  leading  to  Milan.  The  environs 
of  the  city  are  rural,  and  afford  a  noble  view  of  the  mountains  towards 
the  north.  At  noon  we  reached  Pescliiera,  situated  on  the  Mincio,  at 
the  outlet  of  the  lake.  It  is  a  walled  and  strongly  fortified  town. 
The  moats,  passing  under  the  lofty  ramparts,  are  filled  with  the  crystal 
waters  of  the  river,  flowing  with  a  rapid  current,  and  contributing  to 
the  cleanliness  and  health  of  the  fortress.  Sentinels  were  stationed 
upon  the  green  mounds,  rising  like  tumuli  along  the  bank,  and  the 
town  was  thronged  with  soldiers,  who  are  sent  hither  to  prevent  smug- 
gling upon  the  frontiers  of  Switzerland.  The  range  of  barracks  is 
several  hundred  feet  in  length,  two  stories  high,  painted,  and  the  win- 
dows shaded  by  green  blinds. 

Passing  the  arched  portals,  we  crossed  the  bridge  of  St.  Mark, 
which  is  perhaps  three  hundred  yards  in  length,  thrown  over  the  Min- 
cio but  a  few  rods  from  the  lake,  of  which  it  presents  a  noble  view,  as 
also  of  the  river,  which  whirls  and  hurries  on  with  a  broad,  deep,  and 
majestic  current.  The  complexion  of  the  water  is  a  brilliant  sea-, 
green.  It  is  a  glorious  stream,  worthy  of  all  Virgil's  eulogies.  A 
small  boat,  with  two  lads  for  oarsmen,  was  immediately  chartered  to 
take  us  to  tlie  peninsula  of  Sermione,  seven  miles  from  Peschiera.  The 
outlet  of  the  lake  is  so  rapid  and  strong,  that  we  found  it  difficult  to 
stem  the  tide.  An  extensive  and  magnificent  prospect  opens  on  the 
spectator,  as  he  emerges  from  amidst  fortresses,  which  rise  like  an  im- 
mense castle  from  the  waves. 


464        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

The  Lago  di  Garda  is  thirty-seven  miles  in  length  from  north  to 
;50uth,  and  fifteen  in  breadth  in  the  widest  part.  One  of  the  oarsmen 
stated,  that  it  is  a  hundred  7nen  deep — "  uno  cento  uomi  profondo." 
The  water  is  so  perfectly  pure,  that  we  could  see  the  white  stony  bot- 
tom, at  the  depth  of  thirty  or  forty  feet.  It  is  embosomed  by  moun- 
tains, rising  on  all  sides,  of  moderate  elevation  towards  the  outlet,  but 
gradually  becoming  more  lofty  and  rude,  till  they  terminate  towards 
the  north  in  naked  calcareous  ridges  of  the  Alps.  Their  summits  are 
often  cloud-capt,  gloomy,  and  grand.  The  shores  are  deeply  indent- 
ed, and  the  bold  rocky  promontories,  exhibiting  here  and  there  a  solitary 
village,  are  extremely  picturesque.  Monte  Baldo  on  the  eastern  side, 
and  the  peninsula  of  Sermione,  on  the  western,  projecting  so  far  towards 
the  centre  of  the  lake,  as  to  reduce  it  to  less  than  half  its  ordinary 
■width,  form  the  most  conspicuous  features.  To  the  latter  point  we 
directed  our  course,  reading  Virgil  and  Catullus,  and  looking  at  the 
mountains,  as  our  boat  bounded  over  the  waves,  which  sometimes  ex- 
hibit the  grandeur  of  the  ocean  swell. 

The  report  of  cannon  came  from  the  distant  hills,  which  at  first  puz- 
zled us,  to  conjecture  the  cause,  amidst  these  rural  and  peaceful  scenes. 
It  called  up  the  image  of  those  border  wars,  by  which  the  pellucid 
waters  have  so  often  been  crimsoned  with  blood.     The  mystery  was 
soon  solved.     It  was  the  last  day  of  the  Jubilee  ;  and  guns  were  fired 
as  signals  for  the  commencement  of  the  sacred  rites,  as  well  as  to  give 
eclat  to  the  celebration.     By  and  by  the  village  bell  sent  its  peals 
across  the  water  ;  and  afterwards  a  religious  procession,  under  the 
banners  of  the  cross,  and  headed  by  priests  in  their  white  robes  and 
red  sashes,  was  seen  slowly  emerging  from  the  gate  of  Sermione,  and 
moving  along  the  shore  of  the  lake.     The  multitude  proceeded  to  a 
green  hillock,  at  a  short  distance  from  the  little  village,  and  there  knelt 
upon  the  turf,  to  say  the  Ave  Maria,  and  to  join  in  other  services.     A 
confused  sound  of  voices,  in  which  the  chant  of  "  ora  pro  nobis"  was 
alone  distinguishable,  met  our  ears,  as  we  came  to  anchor  in  the  mi- 
niature port,  under  the  frowning  battlements  and  nodding  towers  of  an 
old  Gothic  Castle,  the  basement  of  which  is  now  occupied  by  a  bed 
of  green  rushes.     In  the  successive  struggles  upon  the  frontier,  it  has 
witnessed  less  pacific  scenes,  than  to-day  were  exhibited  under  its 
walls.     The  harbour  where  the  Roman  poet  used  to  draw  up  his  plea- 
sure-boat, was  now  filled  with  the  barges  of  fishermen,  who  had  come 
from  the  neighbouring  shores,  to  unite  in  the  festival ;  and  mooring  our 
bark  among  the  fleet,  we  hastened  to  witness  the  ceremonies.     Prayers 
were  chanted  aloud,  to  which  the  whole  congregation  responded,  be- 
neath the  open  sky,  which  was  more  refulgent  than  even  the  gilded 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         405 

canopies  of  Italy.  Red  prevails  in  the  costumes  of  the  peasantry,  and 
their  festal  dresses  increased  the  novelty  of  the  spectacle.  The  little 
mount,  which  was  the  ruin  of  an  old  redoubt,  presented  a  "lorious 
view  of  the  lake  and  its  shores,  of  the  distant  mountains,  and  of  the 
hamlet  of  Sermione,  composed  of  fishermen's  huts,  sheltered  under  the 
promontory.  The  number  of  inhabitants  does  not  exceed  five  or  six 
hundred,  who  subsist  on  the  products  of  the  lake. 

In  entering  the  gate,  we  crossed  an  old  bridge,  which  for  aught  I 
know  may  be  the  remains  of  that,  on  which  the  fair  country  girl  of 
Catullus  used  to  dance  at  evening.  The  houses  and  streets  were  emj)- 
(ied  of  their  tenants,  all  gone  to  the  festa.  A  local  guide  was  found 
to  conduct  us  over  the  Peninsula,  and  show  us  whatever  it  contains. 
It  is  perhaps  a  mile  in  length,  and  half  a  mile  in  width,  actually  sepa- 
rated from  the  shore  by  a  canal.  Its  highest  point  is  something  more 
than  a  hundred  feet  above  the  water,  terminating  in  perpendicular 
cliffs  of  limestone.  The  surface  is  covered  with  olives,  interspersed 
with  mulberries,  and  here  and  there  a  pyramid  of  cedar.  On  the  very 
verge  of  the  rocks  are  the  ruins  of  an  extensive  fortress,  said  to  be  a 
Roman  work,  but  more  probably  of  after  ages.  Upon  the  summit  also 
stands  the  antique  Gothic  church  of  San  Pietro,  now  in  a  ruinous  con- 
dition, dark  and  desolate,  looking  as  if  it  had  been  pelted  by  storms 
for  centuries.  The  circerone,  without  shoes  or  hat,  took  us  to  the 
Baths  and  Grotto  of  Catullus.  I  will  not  trouble  my  readers  with 
.speculations,  whether  or  not  they  belonged  to  the  poet.  The  first  is 
a  small  square  building,  with  an  aperture  to  admit  the  water  at  the 
bottom.  It  appears  from  the  masonry  to  be  of  Roman  origin.  The 
grottos  are  long  subterranean  arches,  now  in  a  state  of  dilapidation. 
They  are  pierced  at  top  for  windows.  Here  perchance  Catullus  kci>t 
his  Falernian,  and  quafled  his  goblets  with  Lesbia.  Seating  myself 
upon  the  ruins  of  the  building,  which  is  said  to  have  been  his  mansion, 
I  read  his  description  of  Sirmio,  "  the  httle  eye  of  Italy." 

Two  hours  were  deliglitfully  passed  in  rambling  over  the  peninsula, 
in  examining  its  ruins,  and  in  tracing  the  outlines  ol"  the  lake  above, 
which  may  hence  be  seen  for  nearly  its  whole  extent,  till  its  head  is 
lost  to  the  eye  amidst  Alpine  solitudes.  In  coasting  along  the  shore 
on  our  return,  the  chant  of  the  procession  could  still  be  heard,  and 
glimpses  of  crucifixes  and  banners  were  caught  above  the  intervening 
fringe  of  rushes.  The  devotees  had  been  on  a  pilgrimage  to  a  shrine, 
at  the  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  half  from  Sermione.  Towards  evening 
the  skies  became  cloudy,  and  as  a  fresh  wind  was  directly  against  us, 
we  did  not  reach  the  bridge  of  St.  Mark  till  about  G  o'clock.  Amidst 
the  heedless  enjoyments  of  the  excursion,  it  waS  forgotten  what  a 

VOL.  II.  59 


466        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

formidable  length  of  road  was  to  be  traversed  in  reaching  Verona. 
Half  of  the  remaining  hour  of  daylight  was  spent,  in  wrangling  with  the 
landlord  of  the  Three  Crowns,  who  charged  us  six  francs  for  a  mutton 
chop.  We  gave  him  half  what  he  demanded,  when  he  pulled  off  his 
black  cap,  made  his  parting  bow,  and  requested  us  to  recommend  his 
house  to  all  English  travellers.  He  was  a  real  character,  and  would 
figure  in  a  novel  or  play. 

Night  came  on  soon  after  our  departure  from  Peschiera.  In  pass- 
ing a  thick  forest,  I  saw  the  vetturino  whisper  to  the  valet  de  place, 
who  was  sitting  with  him  upon  the  box.  The  latter  leaned  back  into 
the  coach,  and  told  us  in  an  under  tone,  that  we  were  beset  by  ban- 
ditti— ^^that  their  voices  and  the  trampling  of  their  feet  were  heard  in 
woods  on  the  right  of  the  road,  but  a  few  paces  ahead.  As  robberies 
had  recently  been  committed  on  the  same  route,  the  information 
appeared  not  improbable.  We  sat  still  a  moment,  deliberating  what 
should  be  done.  In  the  meantime,  the  coachman  leaped  from  his  seat 
in  a  panic,  seized  his  horses  by  the  head,  and  was  about  to  turn  back. 
Against  this  measure  we  remonstrated,  concluding  there  was  as  much 
danger  in  retreating,  as  in  going  forward.  A  peasant  came  along  at 
the  instant,  and  in  some  degree  quieted  the  agitation  of  the  vetturino, 
by  expressing  an  opinion,  that  the  persons  heard  conversing  together 
were  not  footpads.  Remounting  his  box,  he  gave  the  lash  to  his 
horses,  alternately  using  the  whip  and  his  handkerchief,  to  wipe  the 
sweat  from  his  brow.  He  did  not  pause  long  enough  to  look  back, 
till  he  reached  the  gates  of  Verona.  It  would  have  required  a  fleet 
highwayman  to  have  overtaken  us,  and  there  was  real  danger  of  having 
our  necks  broken  in  the  race,  if  not  in  encountering  banditti. 

The  next  day  was  appropriated  to  an  examination  of  the  objects  of 
interest  at  Verona,  commencing  with  the  Amphitheatre,  which  is 
situated  in  the  oldest  part  of  the  city,  upon  a  spacious  square,  sur- 
rounded with  palaces  and  other  public  buildings  of  no  ordinary  mag- 
nificence. This  Roman  structure  is  nearly  of  the  same  form  and 
dimensions  as  the  one  at  Nismes.  It  was  originally  four  stories  high, 
like  the  Coliseum,  and  would  accommodate  twenty  thousand  spectators. 
The  body  of  the  work  was  composed  of  small  stones  and  mortar, 
encased  with  blocks  of  marble.  No  part  of  the  exterior  is  entire. 
Four  arches  alone  remain  of  the  outer  walls.  They  are  only  three 
stories  high ;  but  the  young  showman  stated,  that  there  used  to  be  a 
fourth,  and  backed  his  authority  by  an  old  print,  wherein  an  Ionic 
colonnade  is  represented  above  the  present  ruins,  which  seem  ready 
to  tumble.  The  interior  is  nearly  entire,  having  been  restored  under 
the  auspices  of  Napoleon.     It  has  four  ranges  of  seats  and  vomitories. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         467 

Excavations  have  been  sunk  to  the  level  of  the  old  arena,  five  or  six 
feet  beneath  the  present  level.  The  French  erected  a  wooden  theatre 
within  the  walls,  which  obstructed  a  full  view  of  the  interior.  Over 
the  entrance  are  two  inscriptions ;  one  commemorative  of  the  visit  of 
Joseph  II.  Emperor  of  Austria,  and  the  other,  of  Pope  Pius  VII.  who 
here  pronounced  his  benediction  u[)ori  the  assembled  Veronese. 
There  appears  to  be  no  clue  to  the  precise  period,  when  this  amphi- 
theatre was  erected. 

At  the  distance  of  a  few  yards,  stands  the  Public  Palace,  built  by 
one  of  the  Doges  of  Venice,  at  the  time  V^crona  was  tributary  to  the 
Islands  of  the  Adriatic.  It  is  a  stately  edifice,  with  open  arches  in  the 
basement,  and  Doric  columns  above.  Fronting  the  same  square,  is 
the  Philharmonic  Academy,  containing  a  pretty  theatre  for  music  and 
the  opera.  The  boxes  next  the  stage  are  rounded,  so  that  the  occu- 
pants face  the  actors.  They  are  elegantly  finished.  The  young  cus- 
tode  pointed  out  the  one,  in  which  Alexander  of  Russia  used  to  sit, 
during  the  Congress  of  Sovereigns  at  this  place,  in  1822.  He  coolly 
added  with  an  air  of  pride  and  exultation,  that  '•'•  the  Emperor  took 
such  a  fancy  to  one  of  his  sisters,  as  to  induce  her  to  accompany  him 
to  St.  Petersburgh,  where  she  still  resides."  Such  was  the  occupa- 
tion of  the  Holy  Alliance,  while  convened  in  Italy  to  settle  the  pa- 
cification of  Europe.  Happy  would  it  have  been  for  the  world,  if  its 
members  had  passed  still  mure  of  their  time  at  the  opera,  in  recruiting 
mistresses. 

In  the  front  of  this  edifice  is  a  handsome  Ionic  portico,  which  is  a 
depository  of  sepulchral  monuments,  and  other  specimens  of  ancient 
sculpture,  presented  by  Maffei,  founder  of  tiie  Academy.  The  most 
curious  article  in  the  collection  is  a  quaint  circle  of  Gothic  figures, 
ycleped  the  Nine  Muses.  No  Graces  mingle  in  tiie  group.  Our  at- 
tention was  also  attracted  to  a  representation  of  the  fall  of  Phaeton  into 
the  Po.  We  asked  the  cicerone  into  what  part  of  the  Po,  the  young 
charioteer  was  precipitated.  He  replied,  "  it  was  near  Ferrara,  about 
60  miles  from  Verona,  where  the  place  may  still  be  seen!"  These 
Italian  showmen  feel  themselves  bound  in  all  cases,  to  give  a  positive 
answer  to  the  inquiries  of  the  traveller,  whether  they  know  any  thing 
of  the  subject  or  not. 

An  arch,  built  by  the  celebrated  architect  Vitruvius,  who  was  a 
native  of  this  city,  spans  the  Corso.  It  is  two  stories,  ornamented 
with  Ionic  pillars,  fluted  and  spiral,  with  windows  above.  It  has  dou- 
ble passages  ;  one  for  ingress,  and  the  other  for  egress,  in  entering  and 
leaving  the  city.  The  face  is  full  of  indentations,  made  by  the  shot 
of  the  Veronese,  in  disputing  the  entrance  of  the  French,  during  the 


46g  LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE. 

late 'revolutions.  In  the  church  and  convent  of  St.  Zeno  Maggiore- 
there  is  a  chapel,  in  the  form  of  a  Rotunda,  exhibiting  a  beautiful  im- 
itation of  the  architecture,  displayed  in  the  decorations  of  this  arch,  in 
white  marble  from  the  hills  of  Verona. 

The  Bridge  of  Vitruvius  across  the  Adige  is  the  most  stately  struc- 
ture of  the  kind  in  the  city.  It  is  cased  in  marble,  and  capped  with 
Gothic  pinnacles.  It  was  the  scene  of  a  skirmish  between  the  French 
and  Austrians,  in  which  the  latter  retreated  and  scampered  up  the 
neighbouring  heights,  to  the  no  small  amusement  of  the  spectators, 
who  had  assembled  to  witness  the  conflict. 

Although  the  rain  poured  in  torrents  for  the  greater  part  of  this  day, 
we  made  a  pilgrimage  to  the  Tomb  of  Juliet,  half  a  mile  beyond  the 
gates  of  Verona.  Her  sarcophagus  is  deposited  in  a  small,  dirty,  mi- 
serable court,  filled  with  hay  and  rubbish  of  all  kinds,  and  forming  the 
entrance  to  a  spacious  garden,  which  was  once  the  cemetery  of  a 
Franciscan  Convent.  It  is  now  appropriated  to  happier  uses.  Grapes 
hung  in  purple  clusters  from  the  roof  of  arbours,  spanning  the  alleys, 
and  peach  trees  were  laden  with  the  largest  and  most  delicious  fruit  of 
the  kind,  which  we  found  in  Italy.  The  old  woman,  who  met  us  at  the 
gate,  permitted  us  to  participate  in  the  fruits  of  the  garden,  as  well  as 
in  its  poetical  associations.  No  traces  of  the  cemetery  are  to  be  found, 
except  the  solitary  sarcophagus  of  Juliet,  which  is  of  Veronese  marble, 
large  in  its  dimensions,  with  a  stone  pillow  for  the  head,  a  socket  in 
the  bottom  to  hold  the  taper,  and  an  aperture  in  the  side  to  admit  fresh 
air.  The  lid  is  gone,  and  other  parts  of  the  coflin  have  been  much 
mutilated  by  visitants,  who  have  carried  away  the  fragments  as  relics. 
Its  present  guardian  watches  with  the  eyes  of  an  Argus,  and  will  suffer 
no  fingers  to  pilfer.  An  extraordinary  degree  of  faith  is  required,  to 
believe  that  Shakspeare's  heroine  was  enclosed  in  this  relic  by  the  Fa- 
ther Confessor,  while  her  Romeo  was  away  at  Mantua.  It  is,  how- 
ever, a  good  story,  the  romance  of  which  ought  not  to  be  dashed  with 
doubts,  but  swallowed  as  the  two  lovers  drank  their  potions. 

We  went  to  the  church  of  Notre  Dame  to  see  the  tombs  of  the  Sca- 
ligers,  who  were  the  lords  of  Verona  in  the  age  of  Romeo  and  Juhet. 
Their  monuments  are  curious  structures  of  oriental  Gothic,  resembling 
little  temples  crowned  with  pinnacles,  and  embellished  with  statues. 
The  sarcophagi  are  cradled  in  air,  among  the  fretwork,  at  an  elevation 
of  six  or  eight  feet  from  the  pavement  of  the  shrines,  and  surrounded 
with  iron-railings,  in  which  the  scala  or  ladder,  (the  arms  of  the  fami- 
ly,) is  interwoven. 

Crossing  the  Ponte  di  Navi,  so  called  from  its  being  the  rendezvous 
of  boats,  and  the  point  of  embarkation  on  the  Adige,  we  visited  the 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        409 

Giustc  Garden,  celebrated  by  Addison  and  other  travellers.  It  lias  ac- 
quired new  fame  by  the  sittings  of  the  late  Congress  of  Verona.  The 
grounds  are  situated  on  a  steep  acclivity,  embellislied  with  pyramids 
of  cypress  and  other  ornamental  trees.  Splendid  walks  lead  to  the 
Palace,  seated  upon  the  summit  of  an  eminence,  whicii  is  said  to  com- 
mand a  fine  view  of  the  town.  We  commenced  an  ascent ;  but  the 
rain  came  down  with  such  violence,  and  the  alleys  were  so  flooded,  as 
to  compel  us  to  retreat.  A  call  was  made  at  the  Cathedral,  to  examine 
the  tomb  of  Cardinal  Colonna.  The  church  itself  is  a  lofty  edifice, 
constructed  of  Veronese  marble,  rich  in  its  decorations. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  evening,  I  strolled  to  the  chapel  of  St.  Anas- 
tasia,  a  stupendous  fabric.  On  entering  the  door,  I  heard  the  voice  of 
one  crying  in  the  wilderness  of  columns  and  chapels  ;  but  it  was  too 
dark  to  distinguish  whence  the  words  of  the  preacher  came.  In  a  few 
minutes  the  brilliant  shrines  were  all  lighted  up,  flashing  a  flood  of 
splendour  through  the  long  Gothic  aisles.  A  numerous  audience, 
chiefly  of  females,  sitting  in  chairs  and  wearing  white  veils,  as  also  the 
speaker  himself  mounted  in  a  pulpit,  came  into  view.  The  remnant  of 
a  popular  harangue  cost  me  a  sous  for  a  seat,  and  another  sous  for  the 
hat,  which  was  kept  rattling  about  my  ears,  till  the  collector  was  ap- 
peased. After  the  sermon,  an  organ  struck  up,  and  a  full  chorus  of 
voices  produced  a  fine  effect.  A  ceremony  followed,  which  was  new 
to  me.  A  priest  touched  the  heads  of  throngs  of  people,  who  pressed 
to  the  altar,  with  a  small  silver  crucifix,  and  then  held  it  to  their  lips  to 
be  kissed.     The  rite  occupied  an  hour  or  more. 

We  returned  the  next  morning  to  the  same  church,  to  look  at  its 
splendid  chapels,  and  the  sepulchral  monuments  of  distinguished  citi- 
zens, erected  at  the  public  expense.  Verona  appears  to  be  justly 
proud  of  her  great  men,  among  whom  are  many  illustrious  names, 
such  as  Catullus,  Pliny  the  elder,  Cornelius  Nepos,  Vitruvius,  Paul 
Veronese,  and  others  of  later  times,  who  have  shed  lustre  upon  their 
native  city.  Although  it  is  now  subjected  to  a  foreign  government, 
and  degraded  into  a  provincial  town,  it  seems  to  be  more  flourishing 
than  most  other  places.  The  50,000  inhabitants  are  engai;ed  in  ma- 
nufactures, and  the  streets  exhibit  evidences  of  a  busy,  active,  and  in- 
dustrious population. 


470        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

LETTER  LXXXVIII. 

llIDK    TO   MANTPA DANGERS   OF   THE    ROAD AUSTRIAN  CODE VILLA- 

FRANCA BANKS  OF  THE  MINCIO FIRST    VIEW  OP    MANTUA EXCUR- 
SION   TO   ANDES REMINISCENCES  OF  VIKGIL CORSO    OF   THE  CITY 

AMUSEMENTS PIAZZA    VEIGILIANA TOMB    AND   LAST    RESIDENCE  OF 

JULIO   ROMANO DUCAL  PALACE TORRE  DELLA    GABBIA ROUTE    TO 

CREMONA CATHEDRAL CAMPANILE SKETCH  OF  THE  CITY. 

September^  1826, 

On  the  26tl),  we  set  out  with  a  vetturlno  for  Mantua,  not  without 
serious  apprehensions  of  encountering  banditti  in  the  way.  Some  of 
the  inmates  of  the  hotel  informed  us,  that  they  had  been  attacked  but 
a  day  or  two  before,  on  the  road  between  the  two  cities,  at  3  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon.  The  band  of  brigands  was  sufficiently  numerous,  to 
assail  three  carriages  and  a  pedestrian  at  the  same  moment.  From 
the  latter  a  considerable  sum  of  money  was  taken.  The  coachmen 
were  fired  at,  but  made  their  escape  without  injury.  All  the  peasan- 
try turned  out,  and  scoured  the  woods.  Three  of  the  robbers  were 
taken.  This  intelligence,  added  to  the  reports  of  outrages  recently 
committed  on  other  roads,  and  to  the  positive  information  received 
from  our  banker  at  Florence,  that  no  less  than  eight  robberies  had  ta- 
ken place  in  the  vicinity  of  Milan,  in  a  single  week,  created  not  a  little 
anxiety  and  alarm.  But  it  was  impracticable  to  avoid  the  risk  with- 
out giving  up  Mantua  ;  and  other  routes  had  but  little  preference  in 
point  of  security.  We  therefore  secreted  our  money  among  the  clothing 
in  our  trunks,  and  took  every  precaution  which  prudence  required. 

I  read  the  Penal  Code  of  Austria  on  the  journey,  as  a  sort  of  neck- 
verse,  and  as  furnishing  the  only  scarecrow,  which  the  government  has 
interposed  for  the  protection  of  travellers  ;  while  swarms  of  officers 
and  soldiers  from  the  Danube  are  parading  the  streets  of  Verona, 
thronging  the  coffee-houses  and  theatres,  dangling  their  swords,  smo- 
king their  pipes,  combing  their  mustaches,  and  making  love  in  the  most 
gallant  manner.  The  code  is,  with  a  few  exceptions,  excellent  in 
theory.  Crimes  and  punishments  appeared  to  me  judiciously  propor- 
tioned to  one  another  ;  and  the  laws  are  laid  down  with  perspicuity 
and  precision.  But  what  avail  laws  without  morals  ?  In  practice.,  the 
whole  system  is  corrupt,  inefficient,  oppressive,  and  tyrannical.  Instead 
of  affording  security  to  the  stranger,  the  police-officers  content  them- 
selves with  examining  passports,  causing  vexatious  delays,  and  extort- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        471 

ing  exorbitant  fees.     Ft  was  not  owing  to  tlieir  vitrilance,  that  we  es- 
caped from  the  Austrian  dominions  in  safety. 

The  country  between  Verona  and  Mantua,  Hke  most  parts  of  Lorn- 
bardy,  is  a  dead  level  ;  and  tlie  road  leads  through  long  vistas  of  pop- 
lars, tangled  with  vines,  bounding  the  view  on  either  hand  by  matted 
walls  of  verdure.  Midway  between  the  two  cities,  we  passed  tlie  old 
town  of  Villafranca,  which  is  the  very  image  of  decay.  It  is  built  on 
one  wide  street,  terminated  in  front  by  the  ruins  of  a  huge  fortress, 
and  hned  with  roofless  and  dilapidated  buildings.  At  a  small  dirty 
tavern,  in  the  hamlet  of  St.  Zenoni,  who  is  the  patron  of  all  this  re- 
gion, the  vetturino  made  his  usual  pause.  The  sallow-faced,  black- 
eyed  landlord  wore  a  red  Grecian  cap,  which  led  one  of  us  to  ask 
him,  if  he  was  a  Greek.  He  took  the  question  in  dudgeon,  instead  of 
being  proud  of  the  resemblance,  and  replied  with  warmth,  that  he  was 
a  Christian;  as  if  the  two  characters  were  incompatible. 

We  soon  fell  in  company  with  the  sea-green  waters  of  the  Mincio, 
which  were  instantly  recognized  from  their  complexion  and  purity. 
They  are  drawn  from  the  river  in  canals,  and  conducted  all  over  the 
plain,  for  purposes  of  irrigation,  producing  fertihty  and  the  utmost 
luxuriance  of  foliage.  These  artificial  channels  are  overhung  by 
hedges  of  alder  and  willow,  and  the  currents  are  so  rapid,  as  to  appear 
like  natural  streams. 

At  4  P.  M.  we  emerged  from  impenetrable  thickets,  and  came  in 
full  sight  of  the  towers  of  Mantua,  which  rise  with  a  good  deal  of 
grandeur  from  the  fens  of  the  Mincio.  The  river  both  above  and  be- 
low the  town  spreads  into  wide  bays,  fringed  with  marshes,  reeds,  and 
aquatic  plants  of  all  descriptions.  Never  was  a  verse  more  graphic, 
than  that  which  Virgil  has  applied  to  his  native  stream.  The  river  is 
much  less  majestic,  pure,  and  beautiful  here,  than  where  it  issues  from 
its  parent  lake,  twenty  miles  above.  Its  waters  are  so  widely  diffused, 
as  to  become  stagnant,  and  to  deprive  the  shores  of  every  bold  and  in- 
teresting feature. 

On  the  left  bank  is  a  long  straggling  faubourg,  lined  with  strong 
fortresses,  which  were  filled  with  men  and  munitions  of  war,  during 
the  French  invasion.  They  are  now  dismantled  and  half-garrisoned 
with  Austrian  troops.  An  artificial  mound,  something  like  half  a  mile 
in  extent,  dividing  the  upper  lake  from  the  lower-  forms  the  entrance 
into  the  city.  It  is  pierced  with  arches  and  sluices,  and  the  water  de- 
scends with  a  sufficient  fall,  to  turn  innumerable  mills,  between  the 
long  ranges  of  which,  connected  at  top  by  a  roof  like  a  covered 
bridge,  the  road  passes.  We  were  deafened  with  the  clack,  as  well  as 
suffocated  with  a  tempest  of  dust,  which  a  troop  of  scavengers  were 


472        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

raising  with  their  brooms,  in  the  confined  avenue.  The  buildings  bear 
the  marks  of  dilapidations,  and  at  the  hour  of  our  arrival,  the  streets 
appeared  depopulated,  desolate,  and  cheerless. 

As  the  evening  was  pleasant,  immediately  after  taking  lodgings  at 
the  Albergo  del  Teatro  Nuovo,  we  set  out  on  an  excursion  to  Pietrola, 
the  ancient  Andes,  the  birth-place  and  early  residence  of  Virgil.  It 
is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Mincio,  five  miles  below  Man- 
tua. The  route  leads  out  of  the  Roman  Gate,  near  which  stands  a 
stupendous  edifice  used  as  barracks  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
Austrian  troops,  who  are  generally  much  better  provided  for  than  the 
nobility,  in  the  north  of  Italy.  Traversing  for  a  mile  or  two  an  arti- 
ficial ridge,  bordered  by  stagnant  water  and  swamps  of  willows,  we  at 
length  emerged  from  the  fen,  and  came  upon  the  rural  banks  of  the 
river,  presenting  a  noble  view  of  the  distant  towers  of  the  city.  The 
lands  are  well  tilled,  but  lie  unfenced  ;  and  the  cottages  are  scattered 
over  the  fields,  oft;en  buried  in  copses  of  foliage.  Thrashing  floors, 
like  those  described  in  the  Georgics,  were  observed  along  the  way, 
and  the  peasantry  were  engaged  in  winnowing  Indian  corn,  by  throw- 
ing it  into  the  air  with  a  shovel.  Others  were  strippmg  the  husks 
from  the  yellow  ear — an  image  which  brought  to  mind  the  scenery  of 
our  own  country. 

A  guide-board  labelled  with  the  words  "  Per  la  Virgiliana,"  at  the 
forks  of  the  by-path,  directed  us  to  a  small  white  hamlet,  which  is  con- 
secrated by  the  nativity  of  the  immortal  poet.  A  descendant  of  some 
Amaryllis  or  Galatea,  barefooted,  with  golden  pendants  in  her  ears, 
and  her  hair  done  up  with  silver  ornaments,  sat  sewing  at  the  gate  of 
the  garden,  which  covers  a  part  of  the  farm  of  Tityrus,  and  embraces 
the  site  of  the  thatched  cottage,  where  he  first  tuned  his  silvan  reed. 
The  kind-hearted  and  loquacious  portress,  with  four  ragged  and  most 
unpoetical  children  at  her  heels,  conducted  us  through  the  grounds, 
beneath  bowers  overarched  with  vines,  laden  with  delicious  fruit.  She 
plucked  the  ripest  and  choicest  clusters,  pressing  us  to  partake  freely 
of  the  luscious  repast.  There  is  an  alcove  or  recess  in  the  rear  of 
the  garden,  which  has  been  peculiarly  hallowed  by  the  memory  of  the 
bard,  as  the  reputed  place  of  his  birth  ;  but  after  the  lapse  of  more 
than  eighteen  centuries,  the  precise  spot  is  of  course  mere  matter  of 
conjecture,  and  the  modern  brick  and  mortar  of  a  deserted  convent 
have  no  tendency  to  remove  doubts,  and  strengthen  the  faith  of  pil- 
grims to  the  shrine. 

I  examined  the  woods  and  natural  scenery  in  the  vicinity  with  minute 
attention.  Many  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs,  alluded  to  in  the  Ec- 
logues, are  still  visible  ;  and  the  rushes,  which  covered  the  pastures  of 


\ 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        473 

Tityrus,  are  found  in  abundance ;  though  tlie  naked  rocks  and  the 
spreading  beach  have  disappeared.  The  Pastorals  of  Virgil,  in  which 
he  closely  imitated  the  Idyls  of  Theocritus,  are  less  descriptive  of 
Italian  scenery,  than  any  other  part  of  his  works ;  yet  much  of  his 
imagery  may  yet  be  traced  in  the  environs  of  his  native  hamlet,  and 
cannot  fail  to  render  a  visit  highly  interesting,^ 

We  had  a  charming  ramble  upon  the  banks  of  the  Mincio  at  sunset. 
The  return  of  the  peasantry,  with  their  rustic  implements,  from  the 
field  ;  the  low  of  cattle  in  their  green  pastures  ;  the  number  of  do- 
mestic animals  about  the  village  ;  the  little  church-yard  skirting  the 
path  ;  glimpses  of  the  river  rolling  through  luxuriant  plains  ;  and  a 
full  view  of  the  city  in  the  distance,  composed  the  features  of  a  vari- 
ed and  quiet  landscape,  which  would  have  been  attractive,  inde- 
pendent of  those  classical  associations,  that  imparted  an  additional 
charm  to  the  scene.  Before  reaching  the  gates  of  Mantua,  amidst 
the  dense  vapours  of  the  marshes,  we  fully  realized  the  shepherd's  poet- 
ical imagery  : 

Et  jam  summa  procul  villarum  culmina  fiimanl, 
Majoresquc  cadunt  altis  de  moritibus  umbife. 

In  the  evening  we  strolled  through  the  principal  street,  the  Corso  of 
the  city,  and  were  surprised  to  find  it  so  crowded,  so  busy,  bustling, 
and  gay,  after  the  desolation  that  had  been  witnessed  at  our  entrance. 
This  fashionable  avenue  is  lined  with  arcades,  superior  even  to  those 
of  Bologna  in  magnificence.  Beneath  them  are  numerous  coffee- 
Jiouses,  the  windows  of  which  were  hung  with  silken  curtains,  and  the 
walls  glittered  with  mirrors  in  the  French  style.  They  were  brilliantly 
lighted,  and  filled  with  genteel  people  of  both  sexes.  The  women 
liave  a  full  share  of  Italian  beauty,  and  dress  with  taste  and  elegance. 
It  was  not  too  cold  for  ices,  and  the  coffee  was  better,  than  is  general- 
ly obtained  in  Italy,  though  not  to  be  compared  with  that  of  Paris. 
In  chocolate,  the  Italians  surpass  even  the  French,  giving  it  the  true 
Spanish  consistence  and  richness.  We  found  here  a  curious  kind  of 
jelly,  composed  of  must  and  flour  boiled  together.  It  is  made  to  be 
eaten  with  bread ;  but  ours  by  mistake  was  taken  as  a  tart,  and  did  not 
possess  a  very  high  relish. 

A  fine  band  of  music,  kept  up  a  serenade  at  the  doors.  Even 
Punch  had  found  his  way  to  the  classical  banks  of  Mincio,  and  drew 
a  large  audience  to  one  of  the  pul)lic  squares.  He  is  here  a  much 
more  dignified  personage,  than  at  Naples  or  Florence.  These  puppet 
shows  arc  common  all  over  Italy.     The  theatre  is  portable,  of  the  siscc 

VOL.  11.  60 


474         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

of  a  watchman's  box,  open  at  top  on  one  side,  where  there  is  a  minia- 
lare  stage.  An  invisible  showman  is  stationed  the  inside,  who  gives 
loco-raotion  and  speech  to  the  wooden  images.  They  sometimes  en- 
act regular  dramas<  and  are  as  tragical  as  Tom  Thumb.  Lilliputian 
heroes  and  mimic  queens,  military  combatants  and  pigmy  pugilists, 
strut  upon  the  boards,  with  all  the  self-importance  of  the  originals.  A 
collection  of  sous  is  made  in  the  same  way  as  at  religious  meetings, 
by  ?  haking  the  hat. 

On  the  following  morning,  we  resumed  our  examination  of  the  city, 
by  a  walk  to  the  Piazza  Virgiliana,  a  spacious  public  square  upon  the 
immediate  bank  of  the  Mincio.  A  substantial  quay,  ten  or  twelve 
feet  above  the  water,  has  been  extended  along  the  margin  of  the  river, 
which  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  bay,  of  the  bridge  below,  and  of  the 
opposite  shores.  The  area  is  planted  with  four  or  five  concentric 
circles  of  elms,  shading  the  beautiful  walks  opening  between  them. 
Marble  slabs  are  placed,  at  suitable  distances,  for  repose.  In  the 
inidst  stands  an  amphitheatre,  which  is  a  modern  building  of  the  Doric 
order,  encircled  on  the  outside  with  the  heads  of  the  great  men  of 
Italy,  in  alto-rihevo.  The  interior  does  not  exhibit  much  taste. 
Barbarous  caryatides  support  the  stage.  Spectacles  commence  at 
4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 

Seating  myself  upon  the  parapet,  which  overhangs  the  clear  but 
reedy  waters  of  the  Mincio,  I  read  the  splendid  project  of  a  classical 
temple,  in  the  beginning  of  the  third  Georgic  : 

rrimus  Iduinaeas  referam  libi,  Mantua,  palmas  : 
Et  viridi  iu  canipo  leuiplum  de  marmore  ponam 
Propter  aquam,  tardis  ingens  ubi  flexibus  errat 
Mincius,  et  tenera  prsctexit  ai'undine  ripas. 

'Hic  eye  finds  but  a  sorry  imitation  of  the  poet's  model,  in  the  stuccoed 
walls  of  the  amphitheatre,  which  was  dedicated  to  him,  on  the  15th 
of  October,  (his  birth-day,)  in  the  year  1801,  by  order  of  General 
Miolis,  then  the  French  commandant  in  this  district. 

In  the  church  of  St.  Andrew,  we  found  the  tombs  of  the  Gonzagas  ; 
and  in  that  of  St.  Mauritius,  many  sepulchral  monuments,  in  memory 
of  French  officers,  who  fell  during  the  Italian  campaigns.  On  one  of 
the  monuments,  Bonaparte  is  styled  "  Augusto  Ca^sare  Napoleone." 
This  is  quite  too  much  like  the  "sempre  Augusto,"  tacked  to  the  name 
of  the  Emperor  of  Austria.  The  church  of  St.  Barnabas  enshrines 
the  dust  of  Julio  Romano,  the  favourite  pupil  of  Raphael,  without  a 
stone  to  tell  precisely  where  he  sleeps.  On  the  same  street  (the 
Unicorn)  stands  the  house  of  the  artist,  where  he  died.     It  presents  a 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        475 

handsome  front,  with  a  statue  of  Mercury  over  tlic  tloor,  which  he 
brought  from  Rome,  on  his  removal  to  this  city.  The  mansion  was 
erected  in  1695. 

We  strolled  again  beyond  the  Roman  Gate,  to  look  at  the  T  Palace, 
so  denominated  from  it.s  form.  It  stands  upon  a  low,  level,  green 
lawn,  surrounded  with  luxuriant  woods,  much  in  the  style  of  an 
English  park,  and  scarcely  less  beautiful.  The  grounds  arc  marsi)y 
and  girt  with  stagnant  waters,  the  cflects  of  which  arc  visible  in  the 
interior  of  the  palace,  and  render  it  unfit  for  a  residence.  In  traversing 
the  lawn,  we  started  swarms  of  frogs,  as  numerous  as  they  were  upon 
the  banks  of  the  Nile,  or  as  grasslioppcrs  in  smnmcr. 

The  walls  of  the  apartments  are  covered  with  a  long  wliito  mould, 
giving  hoary  beards  to  some  of  the  Gonzagas  in  fresco.  Julio  Romano 
devoted  the  last  years  of  his  life  to  the  embellishment  of  these  spacious, 
vacant,  damp,  and  gloomy  halls,  which  resemble  the  cloisters  of  a 
Campo  Santo.  There  was  not  a  soul  in  the  house,  except  the  Cus- 
tode;  and  he  looked  more  like  a  grave-digger  than  the  guardian  of  a 
palace.  lie  led  us  through  a  silent  labyrinth  of  saloons,  where  the 
pupil  of  Raphael  has  indulged  in  the  wildest  freaks  of  his  fancy,  with- 
out addmg  in  my  opinion  to  his  re{)Utation.  I  was  happy  to  be  done 
with  looking  at  his  frisking  satyrs  and  sprawling  giants.  The  Dukes 
of  Mantua  have  manifested  consummate  vanity,  in  putting  their  names, 
titles,  and  initials  upon  every  thing  about  the  palace,  even  to  the 
fire-piaces. 

On  our  return  to  the  city,  we  called  at  a  bookseller's  shop,  labelled 
m  staring  capitals  with  the  words  "•  Tipografia  c  Liberia  V^irgiliana." 
Over  the  door  was  the  head  of  the  poet,  encircled  with  tlie  distich, 
"  Mantua  me  genuit."  Inquiry  was  made  for  a  copy  of  Virgil's 
works  ;  but  strange  as  it  may  seem,  none  was  to  be  had  except  a 
London  edition.  So  true  is  it,  that  a  prophet  is  not  without  honour, 
save  in  his  own  country.  The  citizens  of  Mantua  arc  nevertheless 
proud  of  their  native  bard  in  a  certain  way.  Theatres,  cofiec-houscs, 
and  hotels  bear  his  name  ;  but  no  great  monument  has  been  erected 
worthy  of  his  memory,  and  his  poems  are  .grobably  less  read  in  the 
land  of  his  nativity,  than  in  the  remotest  sectiatfe  of  our  own  country.    . 

The  Cathedral  presents  a  noble  front  of  white  marble.  It  was 
designed  by  Julio  Romano,  but  not  finished  till  after  liis  doatli.  The 
architecture  of  the  interior  is  simple,  uniform,  and  beautiful,  with  the 
exception  of  tawdry  gildings,  which  detract  from  its  purity  of  taste. 
In  the  chapels  are  many  good  paintings;  but  our  attention,  was 
attracted  from  the  canvass,  to  the  living  picture  of  two  fair  Mantucsc 
ladies,  clad  in  the  weeds  of  woe.  who  sauntered  up  the  aisles  and  knelt 


476  LETTERS  FR031  EUROPE. 

side  by  side,  before  an  altar  hung  with  escutcheons,  and  with  requests 
to  pray  for  the  souls  of  the  dead.  No  artist  ever  painted  a  pleta  more 
beautiful,  devotional,  or  interesting. 

After  dinner  we  ascended  to  the  top  of  the  Torre  della  Gabbia, 
which  rises  to  the  height  of  perhaps  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above 
the  palace  of  the  same  name,  belonging  to  the  Marquis  Gonzaga,  the 
last  of  the  family.  As  he  is  a  bachelor,  this  long  line  of  noblemen  is 
likely  to  become  extinct  in  blood,  as  it  has  long  been  in  renown.  The 
tower  is  of  brick,  fifteen  feet  square,  intended  as  an  observatory.  In 
the  balcony  is  a  table  with  other  furniture,  for  the  accommodation  of 
breakfast  parties.  We  found  here  an  excellent  map  of  Mantua  and  its 
environs,  which  were  now  spread  at  our  feet,  and  afibrded  a  delightful 
view  in  the  afternoon  of  a  bright  day.  The  Alps  and  the  mountains 
of  Verona  are  visible  towards  the  north,  and  the  Apennines  to  the 
south  ;  but  between  them  extend  vast  plains,  on  a  dead  level,  and 
presenting  an  unbroken  expanse  of  verdure.  You  look  down  upon 
every  house  in  the  city,  which  is  five  miles  in  circuit,  and  contains  a 
population  of  little  more  than  20,000.  It  is  completely  insulated  by 
the  waters  of  the  Mincio  ;  though  they  flow  on  the  western  side 
through  swamps  of  willow,  so  as  to  be  invisible. 

The  eye  traces  the  river  for  many  miles  above  and  below  the  town. 
Another  view  of  the  village  of  Andes  was  here  obtained.  The  bridge 
of  St.  George  crosses  the  lower  lake,  which  is  about  a  mile  in  extent. 
But  after  all,  Mantua  is  not  situated  in  a  poetical  or  romantic  region, 
and  the  scenery  depends  much  on  moral  association  for  its  interest. 
In  ascending  the  tower,  we  saw  the  iron  cage  of  the  old  Dukes,  in 
which  they  used  to  confine  their  vanquished  enemies  for  a  show.  The 
apartments  of  the  palace  contain  a  gallery  of  family  portraits,  and  are 
furnished  in  handsome  style,  for  the  accommodation  of  the  Viceroy, 
in  his  visits  to  the  city. 

The  evening  was  passed  at  the  new  theatre,  at  the  next  door  to  our 
hotel.  It  is  a  pretty  building,  exhibiting  four  tiers  of  boxes,  hung 
with  rich  tapestry,  and  brilliantly  lighted,  not  only  by  chandehers,  but 
by  circles  of  beauty.  Above  the  stage  is  a  rotatory  clock,  which  gives 
the  hour,  and  the  subdivisions  of  every  five  minutes,  in  illuminated 
figures.  It  is  an  excellent  idea,  worthy  of  imitation  in  our  own  coun- 
try. The  play  was  a  translation  from  the  French,  and  afforded  us 
ittle  amusement.  There  appeared  to  be  great  poverty  of  talent  in 
the  dramatic  corps,  and  their  performances  abounded  with  low  buf- 
foonery, scarcely  superior  to  the  exhibition  of  Punch  on  the  preceding 
evening.  In  this  instance  the  music  of  the  orchestra  did  not  relieve 
the  dullness  of  the  stage. 


LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE.  477 

Early  next  morning,  wc  left  Muntua  for  Cremona.  A  last  and  glo- 
rious view  of  the  former  city  was  obtained  at  sunrise,  some  miles  be- 
yond the  gate.  The  road  runs  along  the  shore  of  the  upper  lake, 
which  slumbers  on  its  bed  of  osiers.  It  was  soon  found,  that  our 
vetturino  was  an  entire  stranger  to  this  part  of  the  country,  and  wholly 
unacquainted  with  the  route.  He  was  obliged  to  inquire,  which  was 
the  Cremona  gate,  before  he  left  the  streets  of  Mantua.  In  passing 
the  villages,  he  stopped  at  the  corner  of  every  street,  to  ask  the  way, 
affording  us  more  time  than  was  needed,  to  examine  a  uniform  country 
and  a  succession  of  dull  towns.  The  plain  is  watered  by  the  Olego, 
which  is  a  large  stream,  with  a  current  sufficiently  rapid  to  turn  mills. 
Bozzolo  is  a  place  of  some  importance,  and  has  its  coffee-hoyses,  at 
the  doors  of  which  groups  of  Austrian  soldiers  were  lazily  smoking 
their  pipes. 

We  took  breakfast  at  Piadena.  The  hostess  gave  us  an  omelet, 
grapes,  and  fresh  figs,  the  usual  bill  of  fare  in  this  part  of  Italy.  A 
supply  of  black  tea  was  constantly  carried  in  our  trunks,  and  made  by 
ourselves,  when  it  was  required.  From  the  windows  of  the  hotel,  we 
witnessed  the  process  of  making  wine.  The  grapes  arc  thrown  into 
the  body  of  a  water-tight  cart,  furnished  with  a  spout  at  one  end,  and 
placed  at  a  suitable  inclination.  Two  men  and  a  female  were  treading 
out  the  juice  with  their  bare  feet  and  legs,  and  looked  like  Bachuses, 
stained  with  the  purple  must.  In  strolling  through  the  village,  while 
the  horses  were  resting,  we  observed  a  priest  engaged  in  knittings 
among  a  group  of  women  under  the  arcades.  He  might  have  been 
more  uselessly  employed  ;  though  the  picture  reminded  us  of  Hercules 
and  his  distafi".  The  altars  of  the  church  in  tliis  obscure  hamlet  exhibit 
ornaments  of  verde  and  nero  antique,  with  half  a  dozen  other  rare 
varieties  of  marble. 

At  5  P.  M.  we  passed  the  stately  Ionic  Gate  of  Cremona,  and  took 
lodgings  for  the  night,  at  the  Royal  Hotel,  near  the  Cathedral,  and  in 
the  centre  of  the  city.  In  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  after  our  arrival,  we 
were  upon  the  top  of  the  Campanile,  an  insulated  tower  rising  to  the 
giddy  height  of  five  hundred  feet  above  the  Piazza  del  Duomo.  Tt  is 
the  loftiest  work  of  the  kind  in  Italy.  The  elevation  of  the  different 
stages  is  marked  upon  the  walls  of  the  interior.  It  is  built  of  brick, 
and  possesses  none  of  the  beauty  of  the  belfries  at  Florence  and  Pisa. 
The  cupola  affords  an  extensive  prospect  of  all  the  great  features  of 
Lombardy — the  Alps  and  Apennines  in  the  distance,  boundless  plains 
spreading  like  the  sea  itself  beyond  the  reach  of  vision,  and  the  Po 
winding  in  broad  and  silver  mazes,  through  fields  of  exuberant  fertility. 
This  noble  river  flows  under  the  very  walls  of  Cremona.     Its  current 


478        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

is  here  mudi  wider  us  well  as  juorc  sluggish  thaji  at  Ferrara,  and  is 
studded  with  numerous  small  islands,  which  add  nothing  to  its  grand- 
eur or  beauty.     Fleets  of  boats  cover  its  surface. 

By  way  of  putting  the  clai>sical  knowledge  of  a  prating  cicerone  to 
the  test,  we  asked  him  if  it  was  into  this  part  of  the  Po,  that  Phaeton 
was  thrown  by  his  unmanageable  steeds.  He  was  equally  positive 
with  his  Veronese  friend,  though  in  a  different  way.  Thinking  him- 
self called  on  to  defend  his  native  city  from  an  imputation  of  insecu- 
rity to  travellers,  he  was  very  certain  that  no  such  accident  had  hap- 
pened in  the  vicinity  of  Cremona,  or  he  should  have  heard  of  it :  the 
disaster  might  have  occurred,  for  aught  he  knew,  at  Pavia  or  Turin. 
But  though  ignorant  of  poetical  fictions,  he  was  famihar  with  the  lo- 
,  calities  of  the  town,  above  which  we  were  elevated.  It  is  five  or  six 
miles  in  circumference,  encircled  by  lofty  walls,  and  containing  a  popu- 
lation of  23,000.  The  streets  are  wide,  and  diverge  like  radii  from 
the  centre,  leading  to  the  gates,  beyond  which  straight  avenues  and 
vistas  of  poplar  may  be  traced  to  the  distance  of  ten  or  twelve  miles. 
Numerous  churches,  palaces,  hospitals,  theatres,  and  convents  heave 
their  domes  above  brick  walls,  and  render  the  battlements  of  the  city 
far  more  stately,  than  the  sub-structures  on  which  they  rest.  Monas- 
teries are  frequent.  Half  of  the  inhabitants  are  ecclesiastics  and  sol- 
diers. The  schools  of  learning  which  were  once  so  celebrated,  and 
to  which  the  name  of  Virgil  gave  eclat,  have  all  vanished  amidst  the 
the  superstition  of  monks. 

The  front  of  the  Campanile  is  furnished  with  a  large  clock,  on  the 
face  of  which  the  signs  of  the  zodiac  are  delineated.  In  the  Cathe- 
dral itself,  we  found  few  objects  of  fnuch  interest.  The  columns  of 
the  portico  rest  on  the  backs  of  colossal  lions.  On  the  inner  wall 
over  the  entrance  is  a  painting  of  the  Crucifixion,  which  the  French 
attempted  to  peal  off,  with  the  intention  of  removing  it  to  Paris.  But 
the  experiment  did  not  succeed.  The  baptistery  is  a  separate 
building,  and  the  other  edifices  bordering  the  spacious  square  give  it 
an  appearance  of  considerable  magnificence. 

St.  Peter's  church,  in  the  outskirts  of  the  city,  has  a  splendid  inte- 
terior,  and  the  walls  are  covered  with  good  paintings.  Among  others, 
is  a  large  picture  of  Henry  II.  and  the  Archbishop  of  Canterbury.  In 
a  stroll  to  the  Milanese  Gate,  half  a  dozen  palaces  were  observed, 
bearing  a  withered  bush  upon  the  basement,  to  indicate  that  the  no- 
bility deal  in  wine.  The  pavement  of  the  Corso,  composed  of  small 
stones,  has  lines  of  smooth  flags,  at  suitable  distances  to  accommodate 
the  wheels  of  carriages,  giving  it  the  appearance  of  a  rail-road.  We 
called  at  the  church  of  St.  Andrew,  to  see  the  Madonna  of  Perueino. 


LETTERS  FUOM  EUROPE.         47U 

An  old  lady  was  reading  vespers  aloud,  to  an  audience  composed  of 
the  lower  classes,  who  responded  to  the  services. 

A  spacious  boulevard  extends  from  the  Milanese  to  the  Mantuan 
gate.  It  was  now  covered  with  temporary  shops,  and  filled  with  goods, 
brought  hither  for  sale  at  the  annual  Fair,  which  had  drawn  together 
all  the  neighbouring  country.  The  articles  were  brilliantly  displayed, 
and  made  quite  a  show,  including  the  groups  of  female  purchasers, 
and  the  bands  of  music  paraded  at  the  doors  to  draw  customers. 

We  called  for  a  few  minutes  at  an  amphitheatre,  where  a  strolling 
company  of  rope-dancers  were  amusing  a  large  audience.  One  of  the 
principal  performers,  announced  by  the  clown,  was  "•  una  certa  Signo- 
rina  Inglese,"  who  exhibited  her  feats  of  agility  to  the  admiration  of 
the  Italians,  The  greatest  novelty  in  the  show  was  a  hornpipe  danced 
upon  a  ladder,  on  the  rounds  of  which  the  buffoon  balanced  himself, 
and  hopped  about  the  stage,  as  he  would  on  stilts.  We  made  an  early 
retreat,  and  went  thence  to  the  opera.  The  theatre  is  a  lofty  and 
beautiful  building,  with  an  Ionic  portico  in  front,  finished  in  good  taste. 
A  genteel  audience,  comprising  all  the  beauty  of  Cremona  and  its  en- 
virons, assembled  at  the  Fair,  imparted  additional  splendour  to  the  five 
tiers  of  boxes,  richly  gilt  and  curtained  with  crimson.  The  music  of 
the  orchestra  was  exqusite  ;  but  the  actresses  were  ugly,  in  compari- 
son with  many  of  their  auditors,  and  displayed  much  affectation  in 
their  style  of  singing.  One  note  from  the  melodious  warbler  at  Vp' 
rona  was  wort'  more  than  the  whole  opera. 


480        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

LETTER  LXXXIX. 

KOUTE  TO  LODI — BATsKS   OF   THE  ADDA — DESCRIPTION   OP   THE   BRIDGE 

ARRIVAX    AT     MILAN ASPECT    OF    THE     CITY — SKETCH    OF    THE 

CATHEDRAL ARCHITECTURE — VIEW    FROM  THE  CUPOLA INTERIOR 

TRADITION     OF    ?T.    AMBROSE TOMB    OF    SAN    CARLO    BORROMEO 

CELEBRATION   OF   THE   JUBILEE PALACJE    OF   THE   VICEROY REMI- 
NISCENCES OF  NAPOLEON. 

September — October^  1826. 

At  8  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  29th,  we  set  out  for  Milan,  a 
distance  of  fifty-two  miles.  A  severe  battle  was  fought  near  the  gate 
of  Cremona,  by  the  French  under  Napoleon.  The  walls,  composed 
of  pale  brick,  are  fast  reverting  to  their  original  elements.  We  en- 
tered upon  a  road  so  direct,  that  the  eye  could  reach  eight  or  ten 
miles  ahead  through  rows  of  poplars,  drawn  up  rank  and  file,  with  as 
much  precision  as  an  Austrian  regiment.  With  all  its  fertility  and 
exactness  of  tillage,  Lombardy  is  a  dull  region  to  the  traveller,  in 
comparison  with  the  romantic  scenery  in  the  south  of  Italy.  The 
fields  are  intersected  by  ranges  of  willows,  irrigated  by  canals,  and 
appropriated  to  the  culture  of  vines,  Indian  corn,  wheat,  rice,  grass, 
and  pasturage.  Domestic  animals  are  large  and  fat.  Cows  were 
frequently  seen  yoked  in  the  teams. 

At  Pizziglione  we  passed  a  strong  fortress,  defended  by  moats, 
draw-bridges,  and  triple  walls.  A  guard  of  Austrian  soldiers  sat 
smoking  and  playing  cards  at  a  table,  placed  in  the  open  air  near  the 
gate.  One  of  the  party  was  obliged  to  fling  up  his  hand  long  enough 
to  examine  our  passports,  and  to  drain  our  pockets  instead  of  the 
purses  of  his  comrades.  A  low  wooden  bridge  is  here  thrown  across 
the  Adda,  which  is  a  large  and  beautiful  stream,  rolling  down  with  a 
strong  bold  current.  The  complexion  of  the  water  is  sea-green  like 
the  Mincio.  On  the  right  bank  is  a  long  range  of  barracks,  for  the 
accommodation  of  the  garrison  upon  the  opposite  shore.  We  rode 
through  a  considerable  village,  in  which  the  only  inhabitants  visible 
were  three  priests,  a  soldier,  and  an  old  woman.  The  Italians  eat  no 
meat  on  Fridays  and  Saturdays,  and  but  httle  on  other  days.  Tavern- 
keepers  in  the  country  sometimes  carry  their  religious  scruples  so  far, 
as  to  refuse  to  cook  for  travellers,  and  therefore  neglect  to  go  to  market 
during  the  hebdomadal  lent.  Our  fare  to-day  was  according  to  the 
straitest  sect,  consisting  merely  of  bread  and  grapes. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         481 

At  5  P.  M.  we  reached  Lodi,  and  after  securing  lodgings  for  the 
night,  hurried  off  to  the  Bridge  over  the  Adda,  the  scene  of  the  cele- 
brated conflict  between  the  French  and  Austrians.  It  is  in  the  eastern 
part  of  the  town,  approached  through  a  handsome  gate,  which  bears 
the  name  of  the  river.  The  structure  is  of  wood,  built  on  piles,  eight 
or  ten  feet  above  the  water.  It  is  about  seven  hundred  feet  in  length, 
and  resembles  a  mole  or  cause-way.  The  Adda  divides  into  three 
channels.  That  which  washes  the  Lodi  shore  is  tame  and  looks  like  a 
canal.  A  sandy  island  separates  it  from  the  central  current,  which 
sweeps  down  with  grandeur,  and  roars  among  the  timbers  of  the  bridge. 
The  cicerone  informed  us,  that  at  the  time  of  our  visit  it  was  "  four 
men  deep  ;"  though  at  certain  seasons  it  is  so  shoal,  as  to  be  fordable 
at  short  distances  above  and  below — a  fact  established  by  the  incidents 
of  the  battle.  A  grassy  alluvial  ridge  divides  the  main  channel  from 
another  bathing  the  eastern  shore.  The  river  is  broad  and  smooth 
above  the  bridge,  and  a  finely  wooded  island  rises  in  the  midst  of  the 
current.  A  hamlet  stands  upon  the  left  bank.  The  scenery,  embra- 
cing the  Adda  and  its  rural  borders,  the  old  fantastic  bridge,  and  the 
towers  of  Lodi,  is  picturesque  and  interesting,  independent  of  its  as- 
sociations. 

Here  on  the  8th  of  May,  1796,  was  fought  one  of  Napoleon's  great 
battles,  in  which  he  commanded  in  person.  It  continued  from  noon 
till  3  o'clock.  He  was  in  the  town,  at  the  head  of  40,000  troops. 
The  Austrian  army  was  posted  on  the  eastern  end  of  the  bridge,  the 
passage  of  which  was  thrice  disputed,  and  thrice  heaped  with  the  dead. 
In  the  third  attempt,  the  French  succeeded  in  effecting  a  passage, 
though  the  enemy  had  decidedly  the  advantage  in  position.  It  was 
necessary  for  the  former  to  pass  a  narrow  gate,  exposed  to  the  raking 
fire  of  the  Austrian  artillery.  Napoleon  did  not  take  an  active  part  in 
the  commencement  of  the  action  ;  but  he  was  foremost  in  crossing  the 
bridge,  followed  by  Massena,  Bernadotte,  and  Bertholet. 

A  statue  of  St.  John  stands  upon  the  western  end,  near  the  Porta 
di  Adda.  He  has  been  a  soldier  as  well  as  a  saint,  and  went  through 
the  battle,  though  he  was  prostrated  at  the  first  shot.  To  the  histo- 
rian and  biographer  I  leave  the  detail  of  military  movements,  which 
had  an  important  influence  in  deciding  the  fate  of  Italy.  We  remain- 
ed upon  the  bridge  till  twilight.  The  scene  now  presented  a  striking 
contrast  to  the  confused  din  of  arms.  Austrian  soldiers  were  taking 
their  evening  promenade,  with  pipes  in  their  mouths,  instead  of  matches 
in  their  hands,  ogling  "  the  maids  of  Lodi,"  who  crossed  in  platoons, 
with  more  colours  flying,  than  were  displayo<l  by  the  French  battalions. 

VOL.  ir.  ni 


48-2  LETTERS  F1103I  EUROPE. 

A  peasant  girl  came  along,  driving  home  her  herd  from  the  pasture, 
Avith  bells  tinkhng  upon  their  necks. 

The  town  of  Lodi  contains  20,000  inhabitants,  and  is  beautifully 
situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Adda.  In  one  of  the  public  squares 
formerly  stood  a  statue  of  Napoleon,  eight  feet  in  height.  After  the 
pacification  of  Europe,  it  was  dashed  from  its  pedestal,  and  entirely 
demolished.  Such  are  the  mutations  of  popularity  among  a  fickle 
people  !  The  Italians  now  see  to  their  sorrow,  that  the  dethronement 
of  the  Emperor  did  not  bring  the  promised  return  of  the  golden  age, 
and  that  a  change  of  foreign  masters  has  only  contributed  still  more  to 
their  oppression  and  degradation.  Even  strangers  are  subjected  in 
.some  measure  to  a  jealous,  burdensome,  and  vexatious  government. 
It  was  required  of  us  at  a  petty  hotel  in  this  town,  to  make  a  particu- 
lar registry  of  our  names,  country,  occupation,  whence  arrived  and 
whither  going,  with  our  objects  in  travelling  ;  all  to  be  reported  and 
sanctioned  by  the  police,  before  a  bed  could  be  obtained.  Such  petty 
acts  of  tyranny,  with  the  extortion  of  fees  into  the  bargain,  detract 
much  from  the  pleasures  of  the  traveller. 

On  the  30th,  we  resumed  our  journey  towards  Milan,  over  an  excel- 
lent road,  but  with  no  change  of  scenery.  Ten  miles  on  the  plains  of 
Lombardy  will  afford  as  perfect  an  idea  of  the  country,  as  ten  thousand. 
The  effects  of  irrigation  are  every  where  visible  in  the  verdure  of  lawns 
and  the  depth  of  foliage,  presenting  a  freshness  even  at  this  season. 
In  the  course  of  the  morning,  we  overtook  the  dramatic  corps  of  Ma- 
ria Louise,  whom  we  had  left  at  Bologna.  They  occupied  five  coaches, 
with  four  horses  to  each,  forming  quite  a  procession.  A  party  of  ac- 
tors and  actresses  were  playing  cards  in  one  of  the  carriages,  while  it 
was  under  way — an  economy  of  time  that  had  never  before  been 
witnessed. 

At  12  o'clock  we  reached  the  Roman  Gate  of  Mdan,  which  pos- 
sesses much  architectural  grandeur,  being  ornamented  with  double 
ranges  of  Grecian  columns.  The  officers  who  guard  the  entrance 
were  unusually  pohte,  contenting  themselves  with  a  moderate  fee,  with- 
out taking  the  trouble  to  examine  our  baggage.  A  ride  on  a  bright 
day,  along  the  spacious  avenue,  leading  from  the  southern  gate  to  the 
centre  of  the  city,  lined  with  stately  buildings,  paved  like  the  Corso  of 
Cremona,  with  flags  for  the  carriage  wheels,  furnished  with  broad  side- 
walks, and  animated  by  a  busy  bustling  crowd,  gave  us  a  favourable 
impression  of  the  capital  of  Lombardy,  the  Paris  of  Italy.  Excellent 
accommodations  were  obtained  for  a  week  at  the  Hotel  de  Grande  Brc- 
tagne,  one  of  the  handsomest  palaces  in  the  city,  and  the  great  ren- 
dezvous of  travellers.     It  was  full  of  foreiffners.  and  the  stvle  of  the 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  483 

table  dMiote  almost  led  us  to  fancy  ourselves  uouin  iu  the  metropolis  of 
France.  Napoleon  made  Milan  so  prominent  in  his  Italian  dominions, 
and  it  was  so  long  the  residence  of  his  provincial  court,  that  French 
customs,  manners,  fashions,  and  language  acquired  an  ascendency, 
which  the  present  dynasty  has  not  been  able  to  control. 

A  little  incident  here  occurred,  which  is  illustrative  of  the  complex, 
yet  exact  system  of  the  internal  police  of  France.  On  inquiry  for 
letters  at  the  Post  Office,  a  printed  notice  was  received  from  the 
General  Department  of  the  Post  at  Paris,  giving  information  that  a 
package,  addressed  to  us  at  Milan,  remained  in  the  office  at  Marseilles, 
but  could  not  be  forwarded,  as  the  postage  to  the  frontier  had  npt  been 
paid.  It  was  therefore  necessary  to  write  to  the  latter  place,  entrust- 
ing some  one  with  a  commission  to  the  amount  of  thirty  sous.  Ar- 
rangements have  been  made  among  the  petty  sovereignties  of  Italy, 
by  which  letters  may  be  transmitted  from  one  city  to  another,  without 
paying  the  postage  at  the  office  of  deposit ;  otherwise  all  intercourse 
between  the  extremes  would  be  cut  oft',  as  half  a  dozen  independent 
states  intervene  between  Lombardy  and  Naples. 

The  Cathedral  of  Milan  is  the  lion  of  the  city  and  ol"  the  north  of 
Italy,  not  excepting  the  lions  of  St.  Mark's.  Much  as  had  been  read 
and  heard  of  this  unique  edifice,  it  far  surpassed  our  expectations,  and 
excited  a  lively  interest,  even  after  most  of  the  splendid  temples  be- 
tween the  two  extremes  of  Italy,  had  been  examined.  It  stands  upon 
the  Piazza  del  Duomo,  a  spacious  but  irregular  square,  which  Napo- 
leon marked  out  for  many  improvements  that  have  never  been  comple- 
ted. The  approach,  the  steps,  the  portico  will  bear  no  comparison 
with  St.  Peter's  ;  but  nothing  can  be  more  rich,  more  finished  or  beau- 
tiful, than  this  Gothic  pile,  which  is  composed  entirely  of  the  finest  kind 
of  white  marble.  Its  form  is  that  of  a  Latin  cross,  about  five  hundred  feet 
in  length,  half  as  many  in  height,  and  three  hundred  in  the  widest  part. 
It  rises  by  three  stages  from  the  eaves  to  the  highest  point  of  the  roof, 
so  as  to  conform  to  the  nave  and  four  aisles  of  the  interior.  The  top 
is  crowned  with  something  like  four  hundred  pinnacles,  of  a  peculiar 
structure ;  tall,  slender,  and  delicate,  filled  with  niches,  and  thronged 
with  statues.  Although  the  material  in  every  point  of  the  exterior  was 
originally  uniform,  it  has  assumed  different  complexions,  from  the  foun- 
dations upward,  corresponding  with  the  various  periods  it  has  been  ex- 
posed to  the  weather ;  as  the  church  has  been  several  centuries  in 
building,  and  is  not  yet  completed.  These  lights  and  shades,  harmo- 
nized and  softened  by  age,  are  far  from  impairing  the  beauty  of  the 
edifice. 

TIip  architecture  is  of  the  most  exquisite  workmanship,  finished 


484         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

with  as  much  exactness  as  the  finest  statue  of  Phidias  or  Canova. 
Even  those  parts,  which  are  the  least  exposed,  and  which  cannot  be 
seen  without  the  closest  inspection,  are  wrought  with  as  much  preci- 
sion, and  as  highly  pohshed,  as  the  most  conspicuous  ornaments  of  the 
interior.  Much  of  the  admiration  and  interest  of  the  spectator  arises 
from  tiiis  circumstance.  Nothing  seems  to  be  fashioned  expressly  for 
effect,  but  for  models  of  intrinsic  excellence,  richness,  and  elegance. 
The  statues  of  saints,  which  are  sometimes  poised  and  perched  like 
skylarks  upon  the  t(jps  of  the  pinnacles,  and  at  others  peep  from 
obscure  niches  in  the  rear  of  towers,  are  so  finished  as  to  fit  them  for 
a  private  gallery,  and  would  not  disgrace  the  chisel  of  Michael  Angelo. 
They  are  without  number,  meeting  the  eye  wheresoever  it  turns.  In- 
deed, the  whole  Cathedral  is  little  else  than  a  congeries  of  ornaments, 
turrets,  pinnacles,  niches,  statues,  tracery,  and  fretwork  of  all  de- 
scriptions. 

We  climbed  to  the  top,  through  a  winding  tower  composed  of 
granite.  The  fee  for  the  privilege  of  ascending  is  fixed  at  five  S()US  a 
head,  payable  in  advance  to  an  officer  stationed  below  at  the  receipt  of 
custom.  Though  the  price  is  low  enough,  it  appeared  to  me  a  paltry 
business,  better  suited  to  the  show  of  an  elephant  than  of  a  Cathedral. 
Walks  are  extended  all  over  the  roof,  and  flights  of  white  marble  steps, 
furnished  with  banisters,  mount  from  stage  to  stage,  rendering  the 
ascent  both  safe  and  easy.  Over  the  centre  of  the  cross,  a  Gothic 
tower,  of  the  same  material  and  workmanship  as  the  pinnacles,  rises 
perhaps  two  hundred  feet  above  the  rest  of  the  church,  and  appears 
too  fragile  a  fabric  to  support  its  own  weight.  A  tedious  flight  of 
steps  conducted  us  to  a  balcony,  hung  lightly  in  the  air.  Above  our 
heads  sat  a  circle  of  saints  and  angels,  and  still  higher  is  poised  a 
brazen  statue  of  the  Virgin,  to  whom  the  temple  is  dedicated,  bearing 
the  words  "  Virgini  Nascenti"  over  the  front  door.  In  our  passage  up 
the  tower,  we  saw  a  medallion,  on  which  the  architect,  who  planned 
the  building,  is  styled  ''divus"  or  divine,  an  epithet  scarcely  too 
extravagant.  It  was  commenced  in  the  14th  century,  and  workmen 
Avere  observed  yet  employed  upon  the  roof,  pecking  with  their  ham- 
mers, and  making  slow  progress  in  comparison  with  the  despatch 
under  the  auspices  of  Napoleon,  who  nearly  completed  the  work. 

The  balcony  presents  a  glorious  view  of  Milan  and  its  environs. 
Here  we  bade  farewell  to  the  Apennines  ;  a  parting  at  which  my  read- 
ers will  probably  feel  less  regret  than  myself,  as  these  eternal  mountains 
are  visible  from  all  parts  of  Italy,  and  must  necessarily  be  often  intro- 
duced in  sketches  of  its  scenery.  The  Alps,  to  which  we  were 
bound,  rose  to  the  north,  and  their  wintry  tops  appeared  by  no  means 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         485 

attractive.  Between  the  two  chains,  the  eye  could  trace  the  plains 
of  Loinbardy  almost  from  sea  to  sea.  The  prospect  of  the  hills  about 
Lake  Coino  was  peculiarly  grand  and  beautiful,  presenting  a  chequered 
scene,  as  gleams  of  sunlight  broke  through  the  clouds,  and  fell  upon 
green  fields  and  white  villages  studding  the  landscape.  Nearer  the 
city,  towers  and  steeples  elevated  themselves  above  the  level  expanse 
of  a  woody  champaign.  The  suburbs  are  intersected  by  canals  and 
broad  avenues,  diverging  in  all  directions,  and  connecting  Milan  with 
the  lakes  on  one  side,  and  the  Po  on  the  other. 

Beneath  us  spread  the  city  itself,  the  walls  of  which  are  nine  miles 
in  circumference,  exhibiting  many  lofty  gates,  and  encircling  no  ordi- 
nary share  of  castles,  palaces,  churches,  hospitals,  theatres,  and  other 
public  edifices,  with  a  population  of  130,it00.  The  streets  and  nume- 
rous squares  were  thronged  with  what  from  this  height  seemed  a 
pigmy  race,  and  with  carriages  no  bigger  than  the  nut-shell  chariot  of 
Queen  Mab.  We  remained  in  the  balcony  till  sunset,  and  saw  the 
last  golden  beams  of  day  fade  upon  the  hundreds  of  pinnacles,  pro- 
ducing a  richness  and  harmony  of  colouring,  which  no  pencil  could 
reach  and  no  pen  describe.  The  white  marble  seemed  almost  to 
possess  phosphoric  properties,  and  to  einit  the  mellow  tints  of  twilight, 
long  after  the  adjacent  buildings  were  gloomy  and  dark. 

We  visited  the  interior  of  the  Cathedral  daily  and  at  all  hours, 
during  our  stay  at  Milan.  It  contains  a  little  world  of  wonders,  which 
cannot,  however,  be  compared  with  the  miracle  displayed  in  the 
architecture  of  the  exterior.  Two  granite  columns,  four  or  five  feet 
in  diameter,  and  fifty  feet  in  height,  stand  like  giant  sentmels,  to  guard 
the  frontdoor.  The  light  is  admitted  through  windows  in  the  roof  of 
the  nave ;  and  as  the  glass  is  stained  yellow,  tints  of  sunlight  appear 
always  to  gild  the  fretted  ceiling.  But  the  golden  hues  are  dimly 
reflected  below,  and  the  eye  can  scarcely  reach  from  the  entrance  to 
the  tribune,  behind  the  high  altar,  where  three  other  Gothic  windows 
admit  a  feeble  twilight.  The  pavement  is  horrible,  being  yet  in  an 
unfinished  state,  and  composed  partly  of  mosaic,  and  partly  of  rude 
brick.  Charity  boxes  are  placed  at  the  doors,  for  receiving  contribu- 
tions to  complete  the  work.  Ranges  of  enormous  pillars,  consisting 
of  fasces,  divide  the  aisles,  and  support  the  vaulted  roof.,  A  series  of 
handsome  chapels  line  one  of  the  walls  ;  but  the  other  is  in  a  rude  state, 
looking  more  like  a  store-house  than  a  church.  The  baptistery  is  a 
little  tabernacle,  occupying  one  of  the  aisles.  In  the  decorations  of 
the  interior,  many  specimens  of  bad  taste  offend  the  eye.  Four  statues 
of  the  Evangehsts  are  converted  into  caryatides,  to  support  the  pul- 


486        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

pits,*  from  which  some  fat  priest  harangues  the  multitude.  Such 
ornaments  are  radically  bad,  and  always  disagreeable,  even  when 
composed  of  slaves  ;  but  to  degrade  Apostles  into  Helots,  doomed 
to  sustain  upon  their  heads  an  inert  mass  of  flesh  and  blood,  is  a  gross 
outrage  upon  propriety.  Among  the  circle  of  statues,  which  surround 
the  choir,  is  St.  Bartholemew,  with  his  own  skin  flung  over  his  shoul- 
ders, and  presenting  his  raw  muscles  to  the  eye.  Before  the  principal 
altar  is  a  candelabrum,  in  the  shape,  of  a  palm-tree.  A  priest  stated, 
that  it  was  once  set  with  precious  gems,  which  the  French  picked  out 
and  pilfered ;  an  imputation,  which  does  not  at  all  comport  with  the 
expenses  incurred  by  Napoleon,  in  adding  to  the  embellishments  of  the 
Cathedral. 

In  one  of  the  aisles  a  curious  article,  somewhat  resembling  a  balloon, 
or  a  theatrical  cloud,  in  which  spirits  travel  "■  from  heaven  to  earth, 
from  earth  to  heaven,"  attracted  our  attention,  and  our  old  cicerone, 
who  has  reached  the  age  of  75,  with  few  marks  of  decrepitude,  was 
called  on  for  an  explanation.  More  garrulous  than  infirm,  he  told  us 
a  long  story,  the  substance  of  which  was  as  follows  : — Once  on  a  time 
St.  Ambrose,  in  traversing  the  streets  of  Rome,  saw  a  carpenter  using 
a  nail,  which  was  instantly  recognized  to  be  one  of  the  several  hundred 
from  the  Cross.  It  was  bought  for  a  trifle,  as  the  workman  was 
unconscious  of  its  peculiar  value.  But  no  sooner  had  the  saint  set  out 
to  cross  the  Campagna,  than  all  the  bells  in  the  city  began  to  ring. 
Tiie  Pope  and  his  Cardinals  met  in  conclave ;  the  people  were  in  an 
uproar  ;  and  an  army  of  ecclesiastics  pursued  the  holy  fugitive  to 
Milan,  for  the  purpose  of  recovering  the  sacred  rehc.  Here  it  was 
agreed,  that  the  nail  should  be  thrown  up  by  St.  Ambrose,  and  if  it 
stuck  to  the  roof,  it  was  to  be  deposited  in  this  temple  ;  but  if  it  fell 
to  the  pavement,  it  was  to  be  returned  to  Rome.  Gravitation  was 
sadly  against  the  chance  of  the  holy  man  ;  but  what  has  philosophy  to 
do  with  miracles  ?  The  nail  was  attracted  upward,  like  Mahomet's 
cofiin,  and  clung  to  the  ceiling.  An  ecclesiastical,  instead  of  theatri- 
cal, cloud  was  fashioned,  in  which  the  dignitaries  of  the  church 
ascended  to  bring  down  the  relic,  which  is  now  deposited  in  the  centre 
of  a  golden  sun,  illuminating  the  high  altar  ;  and  if  any  profane  hand 
chances  to  touch  it,  the  pious  are  thrown  into  fits  of  torture,  and  give 


*  Upon  the  desks  are  posted  up  regulations,  prescribing  the  number  of  pater- 
nosters and  Ave-Marias,  which  a  person  must  say  in  the  course  of  a  year,  to 
qualify  him  to  partake  of  the  sacrament.  The  aggregate  amounts  to  some  thou- 
sands, and  it  must  require  a  good  accountant  with  a  strong  memory  to  keep  the 
tallv. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         487 

vent  to  their  agony  in  convulsive  screams.  In  commemoration  of  this 
miraculous  event,  the  priests  go  up  once  a  year  as  far  towards  heaven 
as  the  Gothic  roof  will  permit,  in  the  machine  which  called  forth  this 
marvellous  tale. 

But  greater  wonders  than  the  nail  of  St.  Ambrose  were  disclosed  to 
our  view,  in  the  crynt  of  the  Cathedral.  The  tomb  of  San  Carlo  Bor- 
romeo,  the  patron  of  Milan  and  its  vicinity,  was  opened  to  our  dazzled 
sight,  by  no  other  magic  than  a  fee  of  four  francs.  Such  a  spectacle 
was  worth  what  it  cost,  being  cheaper  than  a  box- ticket  in  the  Scala. 
A  cream-faced,  lily-livered  priest  lighted  his  flambeau,  and  bade  us 
follow  him  into  the  nether  world,  proclaiming  the  "  procul,  O  procul 
este  profani !"  as  a  sort  of  riot  act  to  the  tatterdemalions,  who  cut 
short  their  devotions  and  gathered  round  the  hatch-way,  anxious  to 
take  a  peep  at  the  saint  through  the  iron  grates,  without  paying  the 
shot. 

Old  Borromeo,  who  was  Cardinal  and  Archbishop  in  1577,  as  ap- 
pears from  a  monument  behind  the  high  altar,  has  a  richer  shrine  than 
the  Delphic  god  or  Capitohne  Jove  could  ever  boast.  A  vestibule, 
adorned  with  Grecian  columns  of  the  rarest  marbles,  leads  to  the  holy  of 
holies,  which  is  a  superb  octagonal  apartment.  Its  walls  are  lined  with 
tapestry,  wrought  in  threads  of  gold  and  Tyrian  purple.  Quenching 
his  torch,  lighting  three  candles,  crossing  himself,  and  muttering  a  brief 
prayer,  the  ghostly  showman  drew  the  crimson  curtains,  which  con- 
ceal the  sarcophagus  from  vulgar  eyes.  The  coffin  is  of  massive  silver, 
embossed  with  gold.  Its  front  is  let  down  with  screws,  disclosing 
another  sarcophagus  of  crystal,  the  panes  of  which  are  set  in  a  golden 
frame,  studded  with  the  purest  gems.  Italian  ecclesiastics  always 
take  care,  that  relics  shall  be  seen  through  a  medium,  producing  a  suf- 
ficient number  of  refractions  and  reflections.  The  body  of  the  saint 
is  stretched  out,  wrapped  in  gorgeous  robes,  with  sandals  upon  his 
feet  and  white  gloves  upon  his  hands,  decked  with  rings  of  topaz  and 
diamond.  His  head  still  wears  the  mitre,  and  above  it  is  suspended 
a  tiara,  glittering  with  brilliants,  and  richer  than  ever  sparkled  upon 
a  regal  brow.  His  crosier,  more  suitable  for  an  imperial  sceptre  than 
a  pastoral  staflf,  lies  at  his  side.  His  face  resembles  an  Egyptian  mum- 
my. The  eye  cannot  distinguish  by  candle-light,  whether  it  is  flesh, 
wax,  or  wood.  From  the  lid  of  the  sarcophagus  hang  clusters  of  gold 
rings,  studded  with  diamonds,  rubies,  emeralds,  and  other  precious 
gems — offerings  from  princely  devotees.  Several  of  them  are  from 
England  and  other  remote  countries.  There  is  one  present  of  a  cu- 
rious description.  It  is  a  bambino  of  massive  gold,  swaddled  in  the 
Roman  manner,  and  looking  like  a  httle  mummv,  or  idol.     It  was  of- 


488        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

fered  by  Beatrice,  Archdutchess  of  Modena,  as  a  fac-simile  of  one  of 
her  own  noble  bantlings. 

From  the  tomb  we  were  conducted  to  the  Sacristy,  where  all  the 
treasures,  plate,  and  relics  of  the  church,  consisting  of  golden  chalices, 
crosses,  crowns,  crosiers,  mitres,  and  other  ornaments  of  the  most 
costly  descriptions,  were  displayed  for  our  inspection.  Here  are  two 
statues,  one  of  San  Carlo,  and  the  other  of  St.  Ambrose,  of  immense 
value,  composed  entirely  of  gold  and  silver.  Their  fingers,  as  usual, 
are  loaded  with  rings.  Busts  of  Apostles  and  Saints,  wrought  from 
the  precious  metals,  throng  the  sanctuary,  the  riches  of  which  are 
boundless.  Among  other  curiosities,  are  relics  of  the  Virgin's  robe 
and  veil,  consisting  of  little  patches  of  lace  and  gingham,  hung  upon 
the  branches  of  a  metallic  tree,  as  splendid  as  that,  whence  iEneas 
plucked  the  enchanted  twig  : 

Discolor  unde  auri  per  ramos  aura  refulsit. 

It  is  singular  that  these  treasures  have  escaped  pillage,  amidst  all  the 
wars  and  revolutions,  conquests  and  confiscations,  to  which  Milan  has 
been  subjected,  by  foreign  nations. 

The  Monday  after  our  arrival  was  the  last  day  of  the  Pope's  Jubilee 
at  Milan.  It  was  kept  hoHer  than  the  Christian  Sabbath,  which  pre- 
ceded it.  The  shops  were  all  shut  and  the  theatres  closed.  At  an 
early  hour,  the  ancient  banner  of  St.  Ambrose,  bearing  his  image 
wrought  in  tapestry,  was  displayed  at  the  front  door  of  the  Duomo,  and 
a  band  of  buglemen,  in  red  coats,  summoned  the  church  militant  to 
the  ceremonies  of  the  festa.  They  were  followed  by  guards  of  armed 
soldiery,  who  pushed  the  women  aside  with  their  bayonets,  in  march- 
ing up  the  aisles,  to  join  the  Cardinal  and  priesthood  in  their  sacer- 
dotal robes  at  the  altar.  As  the  only  means  of  securing  a  passage,  we 
fell  into  the  procession,  and  were  probably  taken  for  "  persons  of  dis- 
tinction." Mass  was  celebrated  to  the  sound  of  the  trumpet,  and  the 
usual  quantity  of  incense  was  burned. 

After  the  conclusion  of  ceremonies  at  the  Cathedral,  the  innumera- 
ble multitude  moved  oflT  in  solemn  pomp,  to  the  church  of  St.  Am- 
brogio,  in  a  distant  part  of  the  city.  Bullion  enough  was  hoisted,  in 
the  shape  of  crucifixes  and  standards,  to  purchase  a  kingdom.  Such 
a  spectacle  afibrded  us  very  little  novelty  or  pleasure,  except  that  it 
furnished  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  whole  population  of  Milan  and 
the  surrounding  country,  assembled  in  their  holyday  dresses.  The 
Milanese  peasantry  are  less  soft  and  delicate  in  their  manners,  as  well 
as  less  splendid  in  their  costumes,  than  those  in  the  south  of  Italy. 


LETl'ERS  FKOM  EUliOPi:.  489 

Tliey  begin  to  partake  of  tlie  coarser  features  and  ruder  habits  of  the 
north.  Both  sexes  drink  brandy,  and  instances  of  intoxication  are  not 
unfrequent.  Many  of  the  women  of  the  higher  classes  are  extremely 
beautiful ;  symmetrical  in  their  forms,  dignified  and  graceful  in  their 
manners,  and  uniting  taste  with  ricimess  in  dress.  We  saw  several 
with  their  hair  frizzled  and  powdered,  in  the  fashion  of  llie  last  centu- 
ry. One  of  the  most  amusing  pictures,  which  attracted  my  attention 
in  the  show,  was  an  old  man  selhng  rosaries  at  the  door  of  the  Cathe- 
dral. He  had  beads  of  all  colours  and  sizes,  to  suit  purchasers.  At 
the  end  of  each  string  is  a  little  medal,  bearing  the  image  of  the  Vir- 
gin on  one  side,  and  St.  Carlo,  St.  Anthony,  or  some  other  popular 
saint  on  the  reverse.  I  heard  an  old  lady  pour  forth  a  torrent  of  elo- 
tjuencc,  in  cheapening  the  price  of  a  rosary  from  twenty  to  fifteen  soldi. 
Medals  have  been  struck  in  honour  of  the  present  Pope  and  liis  Jubi- 
lee.    The  inscriptions  arc  in  Italian  and  German. 

We  walked  through  the  subterranean  passage,  leading  from  the  Ca- 
thedral to  the  Archbishop's  Palace.  It  has  more  than  a  twilight  dim- 
ness, and  the  rumbling  of  carriages,  along  one  of  the  principal  streets, 
was  heard  above  our  heads.  The  wall  at  the  end  of  the  covered  way 
bears  the  following  inscription  :  "  Donne  non  jia^sino  per  qiiesta  stra- 
da'" — females  nmst  not  travel  this  road.  Such  a  prohibition,  which 
was  aimed  at  those  who  were  in  the  habit  of  availing  themselves  of  the 
obscurity  of  the  avenue,  has  only  served  to  make  it  the  more  frequent- 
ed, and  the  injunction  seems  to  be  wholly  neglected.  In  groping 
through  its  mazes,  we  met  crowds  of  v/oincn. 

The  Palace  of  the  Viceroy,  consisting  of  a  centre  and  two  wing:?, 
fronts  upon  the  Piazza  del  Duomo.  It  is  occupied  by  Ranieri,  Arch- 
duke of  Austria,  who  resides  h'ere  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  but  had 
gone  to  Vienna  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  probably  to  receive  his  orders 
from  the  Aulic  Council.  We  found  an  immense  waste  of  vacant  and 
imfurnished  apartments,  like  those  in  the  regal  palaces  about  St. 
Mark's,  at  Venice.  Some  of  them  are  neatly  finished  in  the.  French 
style,  having  been  prepared  for  the  residence  of  Napoleon  and  Eugene 
Beauharnois.  Tlic  floors  are  checker-work  of  nut-wood  and  oak,  the 
ceilings  exhibit  roods  of  frescos,  and  the  walls  are  hung  with  Brussels 
tapestry.  Ranieri  may  lie  in  bed  andgaze  at  the  Triumphs  of  Napoleon, 
delineated  upon  his  canopy  ;  and  the  dressing  chamber  of  the  Grand 
Dutchess  is  ornamented  with  images  of  the  republican  eagle  and  the 
arms  of  France. 

In  one  end  of  the  basement  of  the  Palace  are  deposited  all  the 
moveable  memorials  of  Napoleon,  swept  from  the  saloons  and  heaped 
together  as  rubbish,  on  the  ascendency  oftho  present  dynasty.     Gallic 

VOL.  II.  n? 


49»  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

eagles,  Cupids,  and  winged  lions  of  Si.  Mark  nestle  in  confusioia, 
among  the  score  of  heads  of  the  Emperor  by  different  artists.  Much 
the  finest  of  the  group  is  a  semi-colossal  bust  by  Canova,  which  is  said 
to  be  one  of  the  most  correct  likenesses  of  Bonaparte  ever  taken.  His 
temples  are  more  hollow,  and  his  nose  more  prominent,  than  in  the 
ordinary  representations  of  his  face.  The  bust  of  Canova  himself 
stands  by  the  side  of  his  immortal  subject ;  and  in  the  general  outlines 
of  the  two  heads,  there  is  a  strong  resemblance. 

Among  tJie  rubbish  are  busts  of  Napoleon  and  Maria  Louise,  in 
wax.  They  are  scarcely  fit  for  the  sign  of  a  barber's  shop.  The  hair 
of  the  Empress  hangs  in  strings  over  her  dirty,  blotched,  blue-eyed, 
vulgar  face,  giving  her  the  appearance  of  a  hackneyed  courtezan. 
Her  imperial  companion  appears  in  no  better  style.  Both  should  be 
sent  off  to  a  wig-maker,  to  have  their  heads  combed,  and  then  be 
placed  in  a  bow  window,  beneath  the  three  pewter  basins.  There  is 
a  spirited  picture  of  Bonaparte  crossing  the  Alps,  from  the  pencil  of 
David.  It  has  some  of  the  faults  of  the  French  school ;  but  the  design 
as  well  as  the  subject  is  grand.  The  hero  is  represented  on  horse- 
back, upon  the  summit  of  the  mountains,  with  his  right-arm  extended 
and  pointing  to  Italy.  He  is  followed  by  his  army,  dragging  artillery 
up  the  rocks.  The  violence  of  Alpine  storms  is  forcibly  expressed  in 
the  agitation  of  the  drapery.  I  have  seen  copies  of  this  painting  else- 
where, but  much  inferior  in  point  of  execution. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        491 

LETTER  XC. 

]<tILAN  CONTJNVED — FORUM    OF   NAPOLEON — CASTLE — CA31PVS   MARTrU3 

AMPHITIIKATRE ARCII    OF    THE    SIMPLON GATE    OF    MARKNGO 

CORSO — PUBLIC   GARDEN — MILITARY  ACADEMY HOSPITALS — AMBRO- 

SLVN  LIBRARY GALLERY FRESCO  OF    THE    LAST    SUPPER LITA  PA- 
LACE— THE  BBERA — ACADEMY  OF  FINE  ARTS. 

October,  1826. 

One  of  the  most  prominent  features  in  the  topography  of  Milan,  is  the 
Campus  Martius,  with  its  surrounding  structures.  It  is  a  green  open 
plain,  three  or  four  miles  in  circumference,  lying  in  the  northern  part 
of  the  city.  One  section  of  it  is  denominated  the  Forum  of  Napoleon, 
forming  the  parade,  under  tiie  walls  of  the  Castle.  It  is  intersected 
by  walks  and  planted  with  young  trees.  Bonaparte  intended  to  sur- 
round it  with  ranges  of  palaces,  and  to  open  a  broad  avenue  thence 
in  a  direct  line  to  the  Cathedral.  The  Citadel  rises  between  this 
forum,  in  embryo,  and  the  Field  of  Mars.  It  is  a  monstrous  pile, 
enclosing  three  spacious  courts,  crowded  with  Austrian  troops.  The 
corps  ol'  lancers  were  seen  upon  parade.  They  arc  armed  with  long 
spears,  in  the  style  of  Cossacks.  There  is  nothing  in  the  architecture, 
furniture,  or  associations  of  this  Castle,  that  can  interest  the  visitant. 

On  the  east  of  the  Campus  Martius,  is  the  great  Amphitheatre, 
constructed  under  the  auspices  of  Napoleon.  A  superb  gate,  sup- 
ported by  Grecian  pillars,  and  enriched  with  representations  of  chariot 
races  in  bas-relief,  leads  to  the  arena.  On  the  western  wall,  stands  a 
stately  pavilion,  with  a  splendid  portico  and  colonnade  in  front.  The 
amphitheatre  is  strictly  classical  in  its  form  and  construction,  resem- 
bling similar  works  among  the  old  Romans,  to  which  it  is  scarcely 
inferior  in  size  and  substantial  masonry.  Its  dimensions  arc  some- 
thing like  GOO  feet  in  length,  and  400  in  breadth.  The  arena  is 
surroimdcd  by  a  wall  of  granite,  and  the  seats  arc  composed  of  im- 
mense blocks  of  the  same  material,  rising  to  the  height  of  perhaps 
forty  feet.  A  mound,  sufliciently  wide  for  a  walk,  covered  with  green 
turf,  and  shaded  with  trees,  forms  the  parapet,  and  presents  a  circle  of 
rich  foliage.  At  one  end  of  the  oval  is  a  semicircular  range  of  arches, 
with  a  balustrade  at  top,  designed  for  tiie  orchestra.  The  benches 
will  accommodate  .30,000  spectators. 

This  stupendous  work  was  intended  for  a  nauinachia,  as  well  as  for 
Olympic  games.  A  copious  stream,  drawn  from  Lake  Como,  flows 
under  the  walls  of  the  amphitheatre,  and  thence  to  the  city.     The 


4m  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

arena  may  be  filled  with  water  in  a  few  minutes.  At  the  coronation 
of  Napoleon  as  King  of  Italy,  the  whole  series  of  Roman  games  were 
celebrated  in  order,  beginning  with  chariot  races,  and  ending  with  a 
naval  combat  between  boats,  which  came  hither  on  the  canal  from 
Como.  Our  old  valet  witnessed  the  spectacle,  and  described  its 
splendour  with  much  enthusiasm.  By  a  stratagem,  the  attention  of 
the  spectators  was  directed  to  a  show  upon  the  Campus  Martius.  On 
a  return  to  their  seats,  they  found  the  scene  changed,  as  if  by  enchant- 
ment, and  the  arena  filled  with  vessels,  instead  of  wrestlers,  bigse,  and 
horses.  Such  was  the  skill  of  the  great  magician  to  secure  popular 
applause,  as  well  in  the  character  of  his  public  amusements,  as  by  his 
daring  achievements  in  the  works  of  war.  Under  the  walls  of  the 
amphitheatre  spreads  a  beautiful  promenade,  resembling  the  Champs 
Elysees  at  Paris. 

On  the  northern  side  of  the  Campus  Martius,  terminates  the  great 
Toad  over  the  Simplon,  a  work  as  splendid  in  utility,  as  the  amphithea- 
tre is  in  luxury.  The  eye  looks  through  a  vista  of  several  miles, 
formed  by  lines  of  trees  bordering  the  wide  avenue.  At  the  point  of 
entrance  into  the  city,  a  gate,  or  more  properly  a  triumphal  arch,  is 
now  in  progress,  upon  a  scale  of  magnificence  proportioned  to  the 
grandeur  of  a  terrace  across  the  Alps,  piercing  their  rocks,  traversing 
their  snows,  and  bridging  their  torrents.  Not  all  the  Alexanders  and 
Cajsars  of  antiquity — neither  Greece  nor  Rome,  in  the  age  of  repub- 
lican greatness  or  imperial  glory,  ever  undertook  an  enterprise  that 
can  be  compared  with  this  in  extent,  magnitude,  and  practical  utihty. 
The  Egyptians  reared  pyramids  for  kings  ;  but  Napoleon  opened 
roads  for  nations.  Assyrian  monarchs  attempted  to  build  towers,  the 
tops  of  which  should  reach  to  heaven  ;  but  the  Corsican  scaled  eternal 
ramparts,  planted  by  the  hand  of  nature  herself  Greece  had  her 
Acropolis,  her  Pira3us,  and  Colossus ;  and  Rome  her  paved  ways, 
aqueducts,  and  bridges  ;  but  these  were  the  works  of  pigmies,  in 
comparison  with  the  Simplon. 

Amidst  all  the  monuments  of  imperial  grandeur,  I  have  seen 
nothing  more  stupendous  in  its  proportions,  more  rich  in  its  materials 
and  ornaments,  or  more  lofty  in  its  design,  than  the  Gate  which  is  now 
erecting  upon  the  borders  of  the  Campus  Martius.  Some  of  its  proud 
arches,  and  its  gigantic  columns,  hewn  from  solid  blocks  of  granite 
and  marble,  have  been  reared  ;  and  the  rude  masses  for  others  strew 
acres  of  ground  in  the  vicinity,  as  if  another  Coliseum  were  going  up. 
Fifty  or  a  hundred  men  are  at  work;  but  they  are  wanting  in  that 
energy  and  enthusiasm,  which  Bonaparte  infused  into  the  artisans, 
who  commenced  the  execution  of  his  plan.     A  hamlet  of  shops  has 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE         493 

sprung  up,  in  which  the  cmbelUshments  wrought  by  the  French  are 
deposited,  to  be  used  in  the  decorations  of  the  structure.  The  sculp- 
ture is  beautiful ;  chaste  in  design,  and  as  polished,  as  if  intended  for 
close  inspection,  in  private  saloons.  Many  of  the  bass-reliefs  would 
not  do  discredit  to  the  chisel  of  Thorwaldscn.  The  span  of  the  central 
arch  is  sufficiently  wide,  to  admit  two  or  three  carriages  abreast,  flanked 
by  minor  passages  for  pedestrians.  Each  face  is  to  be  enriched  by 
eight  Corinthian  pillars  of  white  marble,  colossal  in  their  dimensions, 
and  of  exquisite  workmanship.  It  would  be  an  endless  task  to  enume- 
rate ornaments,  now  in  a  state  of  forwardness.  Among  the  number 
are  likenesses  of  the  Conqueror  and  his  Empress,  Maria  Louise — an 
instance  of  liberality  on  the  part  of  the  Austrian  government,  which 
created  not  a  little  surprise.  The  vanity  of  the  Archdutchess  has 
probably  been  consulted. 

It  is  impossible  to  move  a  foot  at  Milan,  without  meeting,  not 
merely  with  obscure  traces,  but  with  conspicuous  monuments  of 
Napoleon.  He  intended  it  as  the  capital  of  his  Italian  dominions,  and 
apparently  bestowed  as  much  attention,  and  incurred  as  much  expense, 
in  contributing  to  its  splendour,  as  he  did  in  aggrandizing  Paris  itself. 
The  Gate  erected  in  commemoration  of  the  battle  of  Marengo,  and 
which  bears  the  name  of  the  well-fought  field,  is  second  only  to  the 
arch  of  the  Simplon  in  grandeur.  It  is  supported  by  four  massive 
granite  columns,  of  the  Ionic  order,  and  the  structure  is  as  substantial 
as  it  is  lofty  and  elegant. 

In  the  vicinity  of  the  Porta  Orientale,  we  found  another  cluster  of 
interesting  objects.  The  Corso  extends  in  this  direction,  through  the 
most  fashionable  part  of  the  city.  It  is  one  of  the  broadest  and  finest 
avenues  I  have  seen  in  Italy,  bordered  by  ranges  of  palaces,  which 
display  no  common  degree  of  taste  and  arciiitcctural  magnificence. 
Much  to  the  credit  of  Milan,  the  Doric  is  the  prevailing  order,  which 
in  my  view  is  worth  all  the  others,  uniting  as  it  does  simplicity  with 
substantial  grandeur.  On  one  side  of  the  Corso  is  the  Public  Garden, 
which  is  scarcely  surpassed  by  that  of  the  Tuilleries  or  the  Champs 
Elysees  in  extent,  in  the  beauty  of  its  walks  and  groves,  or  in  its  artificial 
embellishments.  Near  the  eastern  gate  is  a  Lazaretto,  which  was 
founded  by  one  of  the  Dukes  of  Milan,  as  a  refuge  for  the  poor  in  cases 
of  pestilence.  Ranges  of  buildings,  with  arcades  in  front,  extend  round 
a  green  field  a  mile  and  a  half  in  circuit,  in  the  centre  of  which  rises  a 
chapel. 

The  useful  institutions  of  the  city  are  upon  a  scale  as  extensive  as 
those  for  public  amusement.  We  visited  several  of  the  former.  The 
Military  Academy,  founded  some  twenty-five  years  since  by  the  French. 


494        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

is  a  noble  establishment,  though  not  comparable  with  our  own  at  West 
Point.  It  has  three  hundred  cadets,  between  tlie  ages  of  ten  and 
eighteen,  all  sons  of  officers  and  soldiers.  Two  hundred  and  fifty  of 
the  number  are  supported  and  educated  free  of  expense  :  the  residue 
pay  each  forty  francs  a  month.  They  are  instructed  in  the  Italian  and 
German  languages  ;  in  the  ordinary  branches  of  education  ;  and  in 
military  tactics.  After  completing  their  course  of  studies,  they  are 
obliged  to  serve  eight  years  in  the  army. 

An  Austrian  officer  treated  us  with  much  politeness.  He  joined  us 
voluntarily,  went  the  rounds  of  the  institution,  and  designated  the  ob- 
jects most  worthy  of  attention  in  the  lecture  rooms,  chapel,  refectory, 
kitchen,  and  dormitories.  We  saw  the  whole  three  hundred  at  the 
table  partaking  of  a  dejeune.  It  was  an  interesting  spectacle.  The 
boys  had  good  countenances,  were  sprightly  and  animated,  but  not 
rude  in  their  manners.  They  were  in  a  neat  uniform.  The  fare  was 
simple,  but  wholesome.  Spacious  grounds  for  parade  and  recreation 
are  attached  to  the  buildings.  Six  hours  and  a  half  are  daily  devoted 
to  study,  and  the  rest  of  the  day  is  occupied  in  military  exercises.  The 
walls  of  the  Academy  are  covered  with  the  heads  of  distinguished 
personages  and  inscriptions.  Flattery  the  most  gross  and  servile  is 
lavished  upon  the  Emperor  of  Austria,  whose  brow  is  every  where 
seen  wearing  the  iron  crown  and  wreaths  of  laurel,  as  if  he  had  ever 
done  aught  to  merit  these  honours.  The  lessons  inculcated  upon 
young  minds,  by  such  base  adulation,  must  have  the  worst  possible 
tendency. 

A  brief  call  was  made  at  the  Hospital  Maggiore,  which  is  one  of  the 
most  extensive  works  of  the  kind  I  have  ever  examined.  Its  wards 
Avill  accommodate  three  thousand  inmates.  It  is  built  of  ornamental 
brick  and  terra  cotta,  in  the  arabesque  style.  Its  central  court  is  spa- 
cious and  stately.  We  entered  the  apartments  and  saw  long  ranges  of 
the  sick.  The  bedsteads  are  of  wood,  much  less  convenient,  as  well 
as  less  conducive  to  cleanliness  and  comfort,  than  those  of  iron.  Most 
of  the  patients  were  labouring  under  fevers,  which  are  the  prevailing 
diseases  at  Milan,  in  the  autumnal  months,  owing  to  the  low  grounds, 
stagnant  waters,  and  the  decomposition  of  vegetable  matter,  in  the 
environs.  The  city  is  girt  with  rice  lands,  and  the  marshes  reach  to 
the  very  walls.  In  the  chapel  for  the  accommodation  of  invalids,  is  a 
celebrated  picture  of  the  Annunciation,  by  Guercino.  Adjoining  the 
great  Hospital  is  another  for  foundlings,  two  thousand  of  whom  are 
annually  received — a  fact  which  does  not  argue  much  in  favour  of  the 
moral  condition  of  the  Milanese. 

Our  visit  to  the  Ambrosian  liibrary  v,'as  full  of  interest.     It  is  pe- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         495 

culiarly  rich  in  manuscripts  and  a  choice  selection  of  books,  amount- 
ing to  about  80,000  vohimes,  neatly  arranged,  and  kept  with  the 
utmost  care.  There  is  more  literary  activity  at  Milan,  than  in  any 
other  Italian  city.  I  observed  in  the  bookseller's  shops  most  of  the 
Greek,  Latin,  French,  and  English  classics.  The  custode  of  this  Li- 
brary is  an  intelligent,  gentlemanly,  and  obliging  man,  who  gave  as  all 
the  information  required,  and  showed  us  some  of  the  rarer  manu- 
scripts. Of  these  the  most  curious  is  a  copy  of  Josephus,  made  in 
the  4th  century,  on  papyrus.  The  fragile  material  is  preserved  between 
blank  leaves  of  parchment.  It  is  difficult  to  read  the  antiquated  cha- 
racter, though  the  penmanship  is  remarkably  neat.  We  saw  Petrarch's 
Virgil,  with  his  own  commentaries,  in  his  own  hand-writino-.  It  is  a 
splendid  folio,  religiously  guarded  in  a  case,  under  lock  and  key,  and 
is  likely  to  survive  for  hundreds  of  years.  The  sacred  manuscripts  are 
extremely  valuable,  and  a  becoming  spirit  of  liberality  is  manifested, 
in  grantmg  free  access  and  in  permitting  scholars  to  peruse  them  at 
their  leisure. 

In  the  court-yard  of  the  Library  is  a  curious  metallic  tree,  with  its 
foliage  painted  green.  It  is  so  good  an  imitation  of  nature,  that  the 
French  tourist  Lelande  mistook  it  for  a  living  plant,  and  cited  its  ver- 
dure, as  a  proof  of  the  mildness  of  a  Milanese  winter  !  Happy  is  the 
traveller,  who  amidst  an  infinity  of  objects,  falls  into  no  worse  blunders 
than  this.  From  a  cursory  glance,  tiie  mistake  might  very  readily 
occur. 

Connected  with  the  Library,  is  a  Gallery  of  Fine  Arts,  which  the 
custode  with  an  overweening  partiality  pronounced  the  first  in  the 
north  of  Italy.  He  must  be  very  slightly  acquainted  with  even  his 
own  city,  to  justify  him  in  such  an  opinion.  It  nevertheless  contains 
some  very  interesting  works  of  art.  Of  these  are  a  fine  portrait  of 
Leonardo  da  Vinci ;  a  Crucifixion,  by  Guido  ;  several  Titians  ;  and 
above  all,  the  original  cartoon  of  the  School  of  Athens,  by  Raphael. 
This  work  has  been  to  Paris ;  and  our  guide  would  not  listen  to  a 
doubt  of  its  genuineness.  It  is  certain,  that  something  like  a  dozen 
of  the  sketches  of  this  great  artist  are  missing,  of  which  no  traces  can 
be  found  ;  and  some  of  the  subjects  were  never  transferred  to  the 
canvass.  In  the  ante-room  are  numerous  pieces  of  excellent  sculp- 
ture, and  several  monuments  in  memory  of  the  great  men  of  Milan. 
Among  the  latter,  is  one  in  honour  of  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  erected 
many  years  since.  An  inscription  states,  that  in  the  Ambrosian 
Library  arc  nine  volumes  of  his  manuscripts  and  sketches,  for  which  a 
King  of  England  oflTercd  three  thousand  Spanish  doubloons.  The 
J''rcnch  government  did  not  ask  the  price ;  and  the  interesting  memo- 


496        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

rials  of  this  great  man,  not  less  renowned  as  a  scholar,  than  as  an 
artist,  are  now  in  possession  of  the  Bourbons,  who  will  doubtless  make 
a  good  use  of  them  ! 

An  early  call  was  made  at  the  old  convent,  standing  near  the  Turin 
Gate,  to  see  Leonardo  da  Vinci's  far-famed  fresco  of  the  Last  Supper, 
of  which  so  many  copies  have  been  taken.  It  was  painted  in  1497, 
and  is  still  regarded  with  intense  interest,  as  the  great  original  of  all 
the  pictures  on  the  same  subject.  It  extends  quite  across  the  eastern 
end  of  the  Refectory,  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  in  width.  The  plastering 
of  the  wall  has  pealed  off,  and  greatly  impaired  some  of  the  figures, 
consisting  of  the  Saviour  and  his  twelve  Disciples,  seated  at  the  table. 
Their  attitudes  as  well  as  their  faces  are  admirably  varied.  The  ori- 
ginal must  soon  perish  ;  but  accurate  transcripts  are  so  infinitely  mul- 
tiplied, that  its  shattered  remains  will  be  no  great  loss  to  the  world, 
except  as  a  mere  object  of  curiosity.  A  scaffolding  is  now  erected 
before  it,  for  the  purpose  of  making  some  repairs.  But  who  will  look 
at  it,  after  it  has  been  botched  up  by  other  hands  ?  It  is  questionable 
even  now,  whether  the  visitant  sees  many  of  the  touches  of  old  Leon- 
ardo's pencil,  though  the  design  and  expression  are  without  doubt 
correctly  preserved. 

Inquiry  was  made  of  the  woman  in  attendance,  whether  there  was 
any  truth  in  the  imputations,  that  the  fresco  was  mutilated  by  the 
French  soldiers,  and  whether,  as  Eustace  affirms,  they  made  targets 
of  the  heads  of  the  Saviour  and  his  Apostles.  She  rephed,  that  the 
story  was  wholly  unfounded  ;  and  that,  on  the  contrary,  the  conquer- 
ors of  Italy  spared  no  pains  to  guard  and  preserve  this  celebrated 
work.  In  such  a  case,  the  testimony  of  a  respectable  portress  is  worth 
more  than  the  word  of  a  prejudiced  tourist.  If  such  an  outrage 
upon  piety,  as  well  as  upon  taste,  had  ever  been  perpetrated  at  Milan, 
the  fact  would  be  notorious.  No  marks  of  shot  are  visible  in  any  part 
of  the  building  ;  and  over  the  entrance  is  an  inscription  by  Beauhar- 
nois,  alluding  to  the  means  which  had  been  taken  to  perpetuate  the 
fame  of  the  immortal  artist.  Lelande's  mistake  in  the  metallic  tree 
was  nothing  to  this  wilful  fabrication. 

Leonardo's  fresco  of  the  Crucifixion  occupies  the  otiier  end  of  the 
Refectory.  By  one  of  those  anachronisms,  which  the  painters  of  this 
age  leaped  without  difficulty,  the  Grand  Duke  and  Dutchess,  of  the 
House  of  Este,  are  introduced  as  spectators  of  the  scene  upon  Calvary. 
The  walls  of  the  cloisters  are  covered  with  delineations  of  miracles, 
wrought  by  the  monks,  who  were  once  the  inmates  of  the  Convent. 

In  the  Lita  Palace  we  found  a  respectable  gallery  of  pictures,  em- 
bracing some  of  the  rarest  of  Corregio.  Titian,  and  other  great  ma^- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        497 

ters  ;  but  none  sufficiently  prominent  to  justify  me  in  entering  into 
detail.  The  edifice  itself  is  lofty  and  rich,  though  the  front  is  too 
much  loaded  with  ornament.  Its  court  presents  beautiful  fagades  of 
the  Doric  and  Ionic  orders,  and  its  stairs  brought  to  mind  those  of 
Caserta.  The  apartments  are  elegantly  finished  and  furnished,  occu- 
pied by  the  noble  family  of  Lita,  said  to  be  among  the  most  opulent, 
as  well  as  the  most  hospitable,  at  Milan.  An  income  of  600,000 
francs  per  annum  is  expended  in  a  round  of  entertainments.  Our 
valet  stated,  that  a  dinner  is  seldom  given  without  losing  pieces  of 
plate,  stolen  by  the  guests !  Resort  should  be  had  to  DemidofTs  ex- 
pedient of  using  gilt  wares,  instead  of  gold  and  silver.  The  nobility 
of  Italy  are  generally  poor  ;  and  in  their  estimation,  penury  is  more 
disgraceful  than  crime. 

Near  the  church  of  the  Jesuits,  a  sumptuous  palace  was  pointed 
out  to  us,  which  was  built  by  a  Milanese  adventurer,  who  emigrated 
to  South  America,  and  after  an  absence  of  many  years,  returned  laden 
with  no  small  portion  of  the  mines  of  Peru.  His  proud  pile  attracted 
less  attention,  than  the  more  modest  mansion  of  Beccaria,  author  of 
the  standard  work  on  Crimes  and  Punishments.  Its  front  is  neat  and 
classical,  bearing  medallions  of  the  distinguished  men  of  modern  Italy. 
The  palace  is  at  present  inhabited  by  his  two  sons,  who  are  in  mode- 
rate circumstances,  but  eminent  for  their  scientific  and  literary  attain- 
ments. 

The  Brera  Palace  is  the  great  school  and  centre  of  the  Fine  Arts  at 
Milan.  It  is  a  noble  establishment,  in  point  of  architecture,  extent, 
and  the  treasures  of  its  splendid  halls.  It  was  formerly  a  college  of 
the  Jesuits.  Napoleon  converted  it  into  a  National  Academy  of  the 
Arts.  The  edifice  stands  round  a  quadrangular  court,  presenting 
double  ranges  of  corridors  and  colonnades  of  Grecian  pillars.  A 
beautiful  simplicity  prevails  in  the  arrangement  of  the  orders,  and  the 
style  of  the  ornaments.  The  Doric  basement  appeared  to  me  a  per- 
fect model.  Both  the  Gallery  and  the  Academy  are  in  the  second 
story.  The  former  comprises  eight  apartments,  four  of  which  are  spa- 
cious saloons,  and  the  remaining  four,  smaller  chambers,  all  contigu- 
ous and  opening  into  one  another.  Corinthian  columns  of  the  utmost 
magnificence  separate  the  different  sections  of  the  grand  hall,  througli 
which  the  eye  looks  for  its  whole  extent,  and  surveys  its  walls  lined 
with  the  rare  productions  of  the  great  Italian  masters. 

Supereminent  in  merit  as  well  as  in  fame,  is  the  Parting  of  the  two 
Apostles,  Peter  and  Paul,  by  Guido.  It  is  justly  deemed  the  sublimest 
work,  that  his  prolific  pencil  ever  produced.  In  moral  grandeur,  in 
dignity  of  attitude,  in  force  of  expression,  the  figure  of  Peter  is  one  of 

vnr,.  TT.  Rr? 


498        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

Ujc  most  vigorous  conceptions  of  any  mind.  All  the  elevation  of  the 
apostolic  character,  the  firmness  of  the  martyr,  tlie  fortitude,  the  re- 
signation of  the  Christian,  blended  with  a  portion  of  that  manly  grief, 
which  such  a  moment  might  be  supposed  to  call  forth,  are  thrown  into 
every  feature  of  his  face. 

Among  the  other  gems  in  this  collection  may  be  reckoned  the  Nup- 
tials of  the  Virgin,  by  Raphael  ;  the  Woman  taken  in  Adultery,  by 
Lodovico  Caracci ;  Abraham,  Sarah,  and  Hagar,  by  Guercino ;  to- 
gether with  some  of  the  very  best,  by  Titian,  Paul  Veronese,  Tintoretto, 
Leonardo  da  Vinci,  Domenichino,  and  the  Bolognese  School.  I  was 
much  pleased  with  a  beautiful  oval  picture  by  Albano,  representing  a 
circle  of  Cupids,  dancing  hand  in  hand  round  a  tree,  while  three  of  the 
party  are  seated  in  the  branches,  amidst  the  foliage,  playing  upon  tiny 
musical  instruments,  as  the  orchestra  of  the  rural  fete.  The  minikin 
gods  have  thrown  aside  their  armour,  and  piled  up  their  bows  and  quivers 
upon  the  green  turf,  that  they  may  frolick  in  the  fairy  ring  with  more 
alertness,  and  print  the  sod  with  lighter  footsteps.  It  is  an  original 
idea,  happily  expressed. 

Such  were  the  attractions  of  the  Brera,  as  to  induce  us  to  pay  it  a 
second  visit,  on  the  eve  of  our  departure  from  Milan,  and  to  linger 
several  hours  in  the  saloons,  with  the  melancholy  reflection,  that  it  was 
the  last  great  gallery,  which  would  be  seen  in  Italy.  The  love  of  pic- 
tures and  statues,  like  all  our  other  passions  and  habits,  grows  with 
what  it  feeds  on  ;  and  so  far  from  palling  upon  the  senses,  the  last 
assemblage  of  the  master-pieces  of  art  afforded  a  much  higher  relish 
than  the  first.  If  the  taste  is  not  improved,  a  sort  of  companionship 
and  intimacy  is  contracted  with  artists,  whose  works  the  traveller  sur- 
veys daily,  and  to  whom  he  bids  a  reluctant  farewell. 

The  halls  appropriated  to  the  School  of  the  Fine  Arts  afforded  us 
scarcely  less  pleasure  than  the  Gallery,  furnishing  evidence  that  great 
efforts  are  still  making,  to  cherish  genius  and  promote  taste  in  designs, 
architecture,  sculpture,  painting,  and  engraving  ;  in  all  which  depart- 
ments, premiums  are  annually  distributed,  and  every  inducement  offered 
to  awaken  a  laudable  emulation.  On  one  side  of  the  door,  prize  sub- 
jects are  posted  up  ;  on  the  otiier,  the  awards  of  committees.  In  ad- 
dition to  this,  the  works  of  the  successful  competitors  are  hung  round 
the  walls,  labelled  with  the  names  of  the  young  aspirants,  and  the 
dates  of  their  triumphs  at  the  annual  exhibitions.  Such  a  regulation 
furnishes  a  strong  stimulant  to  new  candidates. 

The  prize  articles  of  the  current  year  were  crowned  with  wreaths 
of  imitation  laurel  and  oak,  the  foliage  of  which  is  not  likely  soon  to 
fade,  as  it  is  of  substantial  metal,  painted  green.     Many  of  the  pro- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        49? 

ductions  of  juvenile  artists  evince  much  talent,  and  give  promise  of 
future  eminence.  Among  the  finest,  are  several  pieces  of  sculpture, 
by  a  Milanese  of  the  name  of  Godolfi.  Tfle  rooms  contain  two  mon- 
uments in  honour  of  the  distinguished  patrons  of  the  school ;  one  by 
Canova,  and  the  other  by  Thorwaldsen  :  SlIso  the  head  of  a  Vestal,  by 
the  former  of  these  great  artists,  which  is  one  of  his  most  finished 
works.  The  face  and  drapery  appeared  to  me  inimitable.  An  exten- 
sive library  is  attached  to  the  institution,  to  which  students  have  free 
access.  On  the  whole,  the  Academy  is  highly  creditable  to  the  genius, 
talent,  and  public  spirit  of  the  Milanese,  who  seem  determined  to  ren- 
der their  city  one  of  the  foremost  in  modern  Italy,  in  keeping  alive  a 
taste  for  the  fine  arts. 

In  our  second  visit  to  the  Brera,  wc  witnessed  the  annual  exhibition 
of  manufactures,  for  Milan  and  its  vicinity,  similar  in  design  to  that  of 
the  Louvre.  Three  or  four  rooms  in  the  basement  were  well  filled  with 
commodities  of  all  descriptions,  except  cutlery,  embracing  models  of 
new  inventions  ;  rural  implements  ;  mills  of  various  kinds  ;  machines 
for  making  wine  ;  a  variety  of  household  utensils  ;  vessels  for  cooking 
with  steam  ;  an  extensive  assortment  of  domestic  fabrics,  such  as 
cloths,  silk  stufls,  linens,  woollens,  tapestry,  gloves  and  hosiery  ;  to- 
gether with  an  infinite  number  of  fancy  articles,  embroidery,  needle- 
work, and  artificial  flowers,  done  by  young  ladies  in  their  schools  of 
industry.  The  specimens  of  plated  ware  would  have  done  credit  to 
the  shops  of  Sheffield,  and  the  clocks  and  time-pieces  were  scarcely 
surpassed  by  those  of  Paris.  Among  the  curiosities,  was  a  museum 
of  natural  history,  in  which  beasts,  birds  and  reptiles  were  made  of 
straw,  so  closely  imitated  in  form  and  complexion,  that  the  eye  could 
hardly  distinguish  them  from  real  animals. 

The  premium  articles  were  entwined  with  wreaths  of  laurel.  A. 
numerous  concourse  of  both  sexes  appeared  to  take  a  lively  interest  in 
a  show,  which  reflected  so  much  credit  upon  the  mechanical  ingenuity 
and  skill  of  their  countrymen.  There  is  a  much  greater  degree  of  ac- 
tivity and  energy  in  the  Milanese  character,  than  in  the  inhabitants  of 
the  softer  and  more  voluptuous  regions  of  the  south  ;  and  the  resem- 
blance between  the  capitals  of  France  and  Lombardy  is  much  strong- 
er, than  between  the  latter  city  and  Rome  or  Naples.  It  appeared  to 
me,  that  vestiges  of  Cisalpine  Gaul  could  be  traced  in  all  the  country 
north  of  the  Po.  The  peasantry  arc  distinguishable  from  the  rest  of 
Italy,  in  language,  features,  costumes,  manners,  and  habits. 


500  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

LETTER  XCI. 

3nLAN  COJJCLUDED CHURCHES CHAPEL  OF  THE    DEAD FESTIVAL   OF 

ST.  THOMAS JESUITS OPERA MINOR  THEATRES ENVIRONS VIL- 
LA OF  NAPOLEON — EXCURSION  TO  MONZA IMPERIAL  GARDENS PA- 
LACE— CATHEDRAL — IRON  CROWN  OF  LOMBARDS. 

October,  1826. 

We  went  the  usual  rounds  of  the  churches,  without  finding  much  to 
admire  or  amuse.  With  the  exception  of  the  Cathedral,  they  will 
sustain  no  comparison  with  those  of  Rome  or  Venice.  St.  Lorenzo's 
is  an  octagon,  the  sides  of  which  are  concave.  It  is  capped  by  a  lofty 
dome.  In  front  is  a  colonnade  of  sixteen  antique  Corinthian  columns, 
connected  by  a  frieze.  It  is  supposed  to  have  belonged  to  a  temple  of 
Hercules,  or  more  properly  to  a  Bath.  These  are  the  only  remains  of 
antiquity  we  saw  at  Milan.  St.  Mary's  has  rich  altars,  and  some  good 
paintings.  The  front  of  St.  Paul's  is  a  noble  specimen  of  Grecian 
architecture.  It  bears  aloft  an  image  of  the  Virgin  and  her  child,  whose 
faces  are  of  a  glossy  black,  to  show  that  their  auspices  extend  to  the 
shores  of  Afi^ica,  according  to  the  exposition  of  our  valet ;  but  it  is 
more  likely  the  sculpture  is  rude  Gothic,  in  which  jetty  complexions 
were  once  fashionable.  In  the  Brera  are  paintings  upon  wood  in  the 
same  style. 

The  octagonal  walls  of  the  Chapel  of  the  Dead  are  lined  with  human 
bones  and  an  array  of  skulls,  piled  to  the  very  ceihng,  and  kept  in  place 
by  iron  net-work.  It  is  a  dark,  dreary  charnel-house,  dimly  lighted  by 
the  glimmer  of  a  solitary  taper  at  the  altar.  Some  years  since,  a  skull 
was  seen  to  move  without  hands,  and  soon  after  to  fall  from  its  place 
to  the  pavement.  All  the  priests  were  called  in  to  witness  the  miracle, 
and  pray  for  the  rest  of  the  unquiet  bone,  which  kept  dancing  about 
the  floor.  At  length  a  peasant  ventured  to  take  it  up,  when  lo,  a  rat 
leaped  out  of  the  socket  of  the  eye !  He  had  built  him  a  home  in 
the  seat  of  intellect,  and  was  comfortably  lodged,  till  his  house  fell. 
Had  he  secretly  escaped,  while  the  monks  were  counting  their  beads, 
the  miracle  would  doubtless  have  been  recorded  for  the  benefit  of 
posterity. 

We  attended  the  festival  of  St.  Thomas,  at  the  church  which  bears 
his  name.  Crowds  of  females  left  no  room  for  the  other  sex.  Incense 
was  burned  in  such  profusion,  that  the  smoke  dimmed  the  lights  at  the 
altar.  Two  orchestras  of  vocal  and  instrumental  music  united  in  the 
chants  of  the  priesthood  ;  and  prayers  to  the  patron  saint  rose  amidst 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE         oOl 

llie  animating  symphonies  of  Rossini,  such  as  arc  heard  every  night  at 
the  Opera.  Here,  as  in  other  parts  of  Italy,  rehgion  seems  to  be  an 
amusement  and  a  gratification  of  the  senses,  rather  than  a  serious  so- 
lemn duty.  The  street  leading  to  the  church  was  tastefully  hung  with 
festoons  of  crimson,  yellow,  and  blue  curtains,  extending  across  from 
window  to  window.  This  custom  seems  to  have  descended  from  the 
triumphal  processions  of  the  old  Romans. 

The  church  of  the  Jesuits  is  one  of  the  most  splendid  in  the  city. 
These  holy  brethren  always  contrive  to  feather  their  own  nests.  They 
are  the  Jews  of  the  ecclesiastical  orders  in  Europe  ;  always  rich,  active 
in  their  pursuits,  untiring  in  zeal,  and  striving  for  the  ascendency  in 
every  thing.  Tliey  have  done  much  good,  as  well  as  much  harm, 
making  the  influence  of  learning  in  many  cases  subservient  to  the 
worst  purposes.  The  aisles  of  their  chapel  were  so  crowded  at  ves- 
pers, as  to  afford  little  opportunity  for  examining  its  decorations.  The 
popular  shrine  of  St.  Ambrose  was  also  thronged  with  votaries.  It 
was  visited  on  the  festival  of  its  great  patron.  In  some  of  the  Milan- 
ese churches,  we  observed  representations  of  the  Madonna,  which  are 
extremely  gross  and  indecent.  To  save  the  trouble  of  making  the 
mother  and  child  separate,  artists  have  united  them  in  the  same  person ; 
and  the  former  appears  in  pubhc,  when  she  ought  to  be  confined  to 
her  bed-chamber.  At  other  times  she  suckles  her  babe  upon  the  can- 
vass, displaying  a  luxuriance  of  charms,  which  would  make  a  pretty 
picture  for  the  nursery.  This  indecorum  in  the  arts,  was  probably 
borrowed  from  real  life  ;  for  females,  in  some  parts  of  Italy,  expose 
themselves  to  the  eye  of  the  world,  at  seasons  and  in  a  manner,  which 
would  be  deemed  indelicate  in  our  country. 

Most  of  our  evenings  were  passed  at  the  theatres.  Of  these  the 
Scala  or  Opera  is  by  far  the  most  celebrated.  In  scenery,  dresses,  and 
stage  effect,  it  is  superior  to  San  Carlo  at  Naples,  and  probably  the 
first  in  the  world.  The  edifice  itself  did  not  fully  equal  my  expecta- 
tions. It  appeared  to  me  inferior  to  its  rival  in  the  south,  in  architec- 
ture and  the  splendour  of  its  decorations.  The  boxes  have  rather  a 
tawdry  appearance,  the  alternate  ranges,  to  the  height  of  six  tiers, 
being  trimmed  with  strata  of  blue  and  yellow  silk.  One  colour  would 
have  been  in  much  better  taste  ;  and  yellow  is  the  meanest  of  all,  es- 
pecially in  the  night.  Notwithstanding  the  brilliant  chandelier,  sus- 
pended from  the  centre  of  the  ceiling,  and  of  enormous  size,  the  house 
is  badly  lighted  ;  and  the  Milanese  beauties  have  an  opportunity  of 
displaying  few  of  their  captivating  charms.  They,  however,  enjoy  the 
privilege  of  seeing  without  being  seen  ;  for  when  the  curtain  rises,  a 
flood  of  glory  bursts  from  the  stage,  and  the  scene  becomes  all  enchant- 


502         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

ment.  Goddesses,  nymphs,  winged  loves,  and  aerial  spirits  descend 
from  heaven  in  clouds,  course  the  air,  and  tread  the  earth  with  fairy 
feet,  singing  their  sorrows  as  well  as  their  joys  all  the  while.  The 
orchestra  is  equalled  only  in  strength  by  that  of  the  Royal  Academy 
of  Music  at  Paris,  and  surpassed  by  none  in  skill  and  taste.  Its  swells 
sometimes  come  with  such  power,  as  almost  to  lift  the  auditor  involun- 
tarily from  his  seat. 

The  opera  was  "  Elisa  e  Claudio,"  the  heroine  of  which  is  a  peasant 
girl  of  Tuscany,  in  whose  dress  we  had  another  opportunity  of 
witnessing  the  gay  costume  of  the  Valdarno.  Its  scene,  too,  is  laid 
near  Florence,  reviving  some  agreeable  reminiscences.  The  ballet 
was  the  Corsair,  founded  on  the  poem  of  Lord  Byron.  It  was  a  most 
brilliant  spectacle,  particularly  the  scene  in  which  the  pirate's  bark  is 
introduced,  nearly  as  large  as  life,  and  manned  to  the  topmast  with 
sailors.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  splendor  of  the  decorations,  all  of  a 
rich  quality,  and  in  excellent  taste. 

The  style  of  dancing  is  carried  to  still  greater  extremes  than  at  San 
Carlo.  So  closely  is  the  flesh-coloured  garment  fitted  to  the  leg,  as 
to  resemble  exactly  the  epidermis ;  and  the  actresses  might  just  as 
well  appear  in  a  state  of  nudity.  Yet  the  more  indelicate  were  their 
gesticulations,  the  louder  rang  the  shouts  of  applause.  This  part  of 
the  show  seemed  to  be  the  most  attractive  to  the  audience.  Many 
persons  left  the  theatre,  as  soon  as  the  pirouettes  were  finished.  That 
the  opera  is  sometimes  a  stupid  place  to  the  Italians  as  well  as  to 
others,  I  had  demonstrable  evidence  before  me.  Eight  persons  were 
counted  fast  asleep,  within  a  circle  of  as  many  paces  from  my  seat, 
lulled  by  angelic  voices,  and  dreaming  over  the  adventures  of  Elisa 
and  Claudio.  Yet  these  same  persons  deem  it  a  kind  of  duty  to 
attend  at  the  Scala  every  evening,  though  the  piece  be  repeated  for 
the  hundredth  time.  They  go  from  habit,  as  certain  merchants  visit 
the  Exchange,  for  the  sake  of  appearing  in  public  and  mingling  with 
the  world. 

One  evening  each  to  the  minor  theatres  was  amply  sufficient.  The 
Teatro  Re  is  near  the  Viceroy's  Palace,  and  from  its  name  it  is  pro- 
bably under  his  special  patronage.  It  is  a  small  but  neat  building. 
The  comedy  was  amusing,  and  the  ballet  surpassed  that  of  the  Scala 
in  indelicacy.  A  child  five  or  six  years  old,  that  sat  next  to  me,  clap- 
ped its  little  hands  in  ecstacy,  and  raised  its  infantile  voice  in  plaudits, 
as  some  tall  Milanese  actress  whirled  round  upon  one  leg,  with  the 
other  raised  to  a  right  angle,  like  the  arm  of  a  turnpike  gate. 

At  another  minor  theatre,  we  witnessed  a  perfect  burlesque  upon 
the  Italian  stage.     The  players  were  marionettes,  made  of  wood. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        503 

about  three  feet  in  height,  with  imperceptible  wires  fixed  in  their 
heads,  and  moved  by  persons  above  the  scenes,  who  by  dint  of  ven- 
triloquism threw  their  voices  into  the  consequential  actors.  By  a 
contraction  of  the  stage,  and  the  illusion  of  the  perspective,  they  appear 
like  real  persons  at  a  distance.  The  principal  piece  for  the  night  was 
the  Rape  of  Proserpine,  a  very  classical  production,  in  which  the  infer- 
nal regions  were  disclosed  to  view!  Pluto  appeared  in  his  flaming 
car,  driven  by  Cupid  bearing  a  blazing  torch.  Peter  Quince  and  his 
corps  did  not  raise  a  storm  half  so  tremendous,  as  these  Lilliputians 
produced.  Then  came  the  ballet,  which  was  an  admirable  satire 
upon  the  dancing  at  the  Scala.  Minikin  actresses  hopped,  reeled, 
and  span  like  tops,  showing  their  wooden  legs  with  as  much  dex- 
terity, as  ••'  children  of  a  larger  growth."  An  exhibition  of  this  kind 
was  witnessed  at  Lodi ;  but  there  the  marionettes  were  contadini,  dis- 
playing the  rusticity  of  a  country  life,  and  not  to  be  compared  with  the 
gay  dresses  and  fashionable  manners  of  city  puppets. 

The  objects  in  the  environs  of  Milan  are  neither  numerous,  nor 
remarkable  for  a  high  degree  of  interest.  An  excursion  was  made  a 
mile  or  two  beyond  the  walls,  to  look  at  an  old  palace  hidden  among 
vines  and  poplars,  celebrated  chiefly  for  an  echo  in  its  court,  which  is 
said  to  give  sixty  distinct  reverberations  of  sound.  We  did  not  take 
the  trouble  to  count  them.  Three  parties  of  ladies  and  gentlemen 
arrived  on  the  same  errand  to  this  secluded  retreat,  during  our  visit  of 
an  hoar.  Pistols  were  discharged,  and  all  sorts  of  noises  made  by  the 
visitants,  from  the  stentorian  shouts  of  valets,  to  the  involuntary 
shrieks  of  females,  at  the  report  of  fire-arms  and  the  smell  of  gun- 
powder. The  echo  is  very  perfect,  though  not  more  so  than  that  in 
the  mausoleum  of  Augustus  ;  while  the  retreat  of  the  fabled  daughter 
of  Air  and  Earth  is  here  not  so  classical  as  on  the  banks  of  the  Tiber, 
nor  so  silvan  as  amidst  the  woods  and  rocks  of  Killarney,  where  the 
pipes  of  Pan  still  waken  her  slumbers.  In  the  walls  of  a  palace,  she 
has  literally  realized  the  metamorphosis  of  the  poet,  and  been  changed 
into  stone. 

On  our  way  back,  we  visited  the  Villa  of  Napoleon,  in  the  suburbs 
of  the  city,  presenting  a  distant  view  of  the  Cathedral.  The  grounds 
are  extensive  and  highly  embellished  in  the  French  style,  watered  by 
an  artificial  stream,  overhung  with  trees.  Grecian  temples  and  pavi- 
lions rise  along  the  rural  walks,  and  the  garden  yet  bloomed  with 
autumnal  flowers.  The  palace  is  two  stories,  elegant  in  its  propor- 
tions and  architecture,  but  objectionable  in  some  of  its  ornaments. 
In  the  bas-reliefs  of  the  exterior,  the  loves  and  frolics  of  Satyrs  are 
represented  in  their  broadest  characters.     The  roof  is  crowned  with 


504        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

ranges  of  statues.  We  traversed  long  suites  of  apartments,  which  are 
elegantly  finished,  but  indifferently  furnished,  containing  neither  sculp- 
ture nor  paintings.  They  are  occupied  a  part  of  the  year  by  the  Vice- 
roy. A  call  was  made  at  the  Palace  of  the  Governor,  standing  upon 
the  Corso.  The  architrave  of  the  third  story  is  supported  by  a  series 
of  caryatides,  male  and  female,  yoked  together  in  pairs,  and  extending 
quite  round  the  court.  It  is  a  barbarous  and  grotesque  species  of 
ornament.     The  edifice  is  devoid  of  interest  of  any  kind. 

A  day  was  occupied  in  an  excursion  to  Monza,  for  the  purpose  of 
examining  the  Iron  Crown  of  Lombardy.  It  was  necessary  to  go 
through  with  the  formahty  of  obtaining  a  permit  from  the  Austrian 
authorities.  They  gave  us  a  sealed  letter,  bearing  the  double-headed 
eagle  and  the  arms  of  the  Empire.  It  was  folded,  stamped,  and  super- 
scribed in  as  much  style,  as  if  it  had  been  a  commission  to  a  foreign 
court.  What  it  contained  was  never  known  to  us.  It  passed  current 
with  the  priesthood,  and  served  as  a  key  to  open  the  cabinet  of  the 
Cathedral,  which  was  enough  for  us  to  know. 

Monza  is  ten  miles  from  Milan.  We  rode  along  the  banks  of  the 
canal,  which  connects  the  city  with  Lake  Como,  and  passed  the  Villa 
Greco,  without  discovering  any  of  the  charms,  with  which  it  has  been 
invested  by  the  luxuriant  and  pliant  imagination  of  Lady  Morgan. 
The  whole  region  is  an  unvaried  plain,  and  the  view  is  intercepted  by 
eternal  poplars,  tangled  with  vines.  Neither  nature  nor  art  presents 
a  single  new  feature,  in  the  course  of  a  ride  which  has  been  so  much 
extolled. 

At  noon  we  reached  the  large  village  of  Monza,  the  Versailles  of 
Lombardy,  and  first  looked  at  the  Imperial  Palace.  It  is  one  of  the 
dozen  residences  of  the  Viceroy.  Two  of  his  five  children  were  now 
here.  He  is  at  the  age  of  43,  with  a  wife  of  twenty-five.  His  only 
employment  seems  to  consist  in  riding  from  palace  to  palace,  without 
troubling  his  head  with  the  cares  of  empire.  No  trace  of  a  library  was 
found  in  his  many  mansions,  and  no  monuments,  save  new  doganas, 
have  risen  under  his  auspices. 

The  royal  gardens  at  Monza  surpass  those  of  the  Bourbons,  in  taste 
as  well  as  in  extent.  They  are  laid  out  and  embellished  in  the  style  of 
English  parks.  The  woods  are  rich  and  beautiful.  We  sauntered  an 
hour  along  umbrageous  walks,  following  each  winding  pathway,  which 
led  to  a  Grecian  or  Chinese  temple,  a  tower  or  an  imitation  ruin,  a 
rustic  grotto^  a  lake,  fountain,  or  waterfall.  Such  is  the  location  of 
these  various  objects,  as  often  to  take  the  spectator  by  surprise,  and 
produce  the  finest  effect.  In  some  instances  perspectives  are  opened 
purposely  for  show — a  species  of  ornament  not  uncommon  in  the  north 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         505 

of  Italy,  though  generally  uninteresting ;  for  tlie  vista  should  never 
rise  above  aA  accessory,  or  medium  of  vision,  presenting  some  ulterior 
object  to  fix  the  eye.  The  waters  in  those  grounds  arc  transparent, 
brisk,  and  musical,  frequently  descending  in  cascades,  in  which  art  has 
happily  pursued  the  suggestions  of  nature.  Swans,  ducks,  and  other 
domestic  animals  give  to  the  scenery  a  rural  appearance.  Botanical, 
kitchen,  and  fruit  gardens  are  among  the  appendages  of  the  park. 

The  palace  is  colossal  in  its  proportions,  and  its  aroliitecturo  classi- 
cal. It  was  rebuilt  some  fifty  years  ago  of  substantial  materials.  The 
interior,  though  highly  finished  and  richly  furnished,  contains  not  a 
vestige  of  the  fine  arts.  Tlirce  ordinary  pictures  in  the  chapel  were 
the  only  traces  of  the  pencil,  discoverable  about  the  imperial  residence ; 
and  they  seemed  merely  guardians  of  the  bones  and  relics  of  saints, 
which  sanctify  the  altar.  After  traversing  Lombardy  from  the  Po  to 
the  Lakes,  it  was  ascertained  pretty  satisfactorily,  tiiat  an  Austrian 
palace  is  one  of  the  most  vacant  and  stupid  buildings  in  the  world. 
The  royal  inmates  are  too  poor,  too  indolent,  or  too  tasteless  to  col- 
lect either  statues  or  paintings,  contenting  themselves  with  reposing 
in  state  beds,  or  lolling  on  sumptuous  couches. 

The  Cathedral  is  near  the  Palace.  Its  front  is  not  a  mean  specimen 
of  Gothic  architecture  ;  but  the  black  and  white  stripe  destroys  what- 
ever of  merit  the  exterior  would  otherwise  possess.  A  fulsome  in- 
scription, in  praise  of  the  munificence  of  the  Austrian  dynasty,  meets 
the  eye  at  the  portals.  The  church  is  consecrated  to  Theolinda,  who 
is  its  patron  saint,  and  whose  tonil)  is  near  the  high  altar. 

Our  imperial  order  was  delivered,  and  as  much  preparation  was 
made,  as  if  the  Iron  Crown  was  to  be  placed  upon  one  of  our  brows, 
as  it  had  been  upon  that  of  Napoleon.  It  required  the  services  of  four 
priests,  and  a  layman,  as  a  lackey,  to  exhibit  the  relic,  which  is  en- 
shrined in  a  cross  of  massive  gold,  studded  with  the  costliest  gems,  and 
hallowed  by  veritable  fragments  of  the  apparatus,  used  in  the  crucifixion 
upon  Calvary — such  as  pieces  of  the  sponge  still  red  with  blood,  and 
splinters  of  the  reed  on  which  it  was  fastened  !  As  an  initiatory  step 
in  the  ceremony,  five  candles  were  hghted  up  before  the  high  altar. 
One  of  the  priests  then  knell  upon  a  red  cushion,  placed  on  the  steps, 
whispered  a  prayer,  and  burned  much  incense,  which  rose  in  such 
clouds  as  to  form  halos  about  the  tapers.  Another  of  the  fraternity 
mounted  a  ladder  and  unlocked  the  cabinet ;  while  the  remaining  two 
lifted  the  ponderous  cross  from  its  shrine,  and  set  it  on  the  pavement 
for  our  inspection.  It  was  examined  much  at  our  leisure,  and  the 
showmen  were  very  accommodating. 

The  Crown  is  incased  in  crystal,  hermetically  sealed  ;  but  the  me- 

voL.  n.  64 


500        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

dium  is  so  transparent,  that  you  see  the  reUc  as  perfectly  as  through  so 
much  air.  Its  outer  circle  is  a  band  of  gold,  set  with  jewels,  and  lined 
with  a  narrow  hoop  of  iron,  made  of  nails  from  the  Cross  !  It  is  com- 
posed of  six  distinct  pieces,  connected  by  hinges,  and  capable  of  being 
enlarged,  to  suit  any  brow.  Its  diameter  does  not  exceed  seven  or 
eight  inches  ;  and  it  must  have  been  tremendously  stretched,  to  encir- 
cle the  head  of  Napoleon.  This  is  the  oldest  diadem  in  existence,  and 
since  the  days  of  Charlemagne,  it  has  rested  upon  the  skull  of  many  a 
dunce  and  many  a  tyrant,  whom  Bonaparte  had  the  vain  ambition  and 
folly  to  imitate  in  mummery,  which  his  greatness  should  have  led  him 
to  scorn  and  trample  under  foot.  It  is  almost  inconceivable,  that  a 
mind  of  such  lofty  and  liberal  views,  pledged  to  the  support  of  republi- 
can principles,  could  so  far  debase  itself,  as  to  stoop  to  the  low  ambi- 
tion of  common  despots  : 

"  Pleas'd  with  a  rattle,  tickled  with  a  straw." 

A  group  of  peasantry,  together  with  two  or  three  ecclesiastics  from 
the  neighbouring  towns,  availed  themselves  of  this  opportunity,  to  take 
a  peep  at  the  gew-gaw.  The  wonder  depicted  in  their  faces  was  quite 
as  amusing  as  the  brilliancy  of  the  tiara.  All  the  treasures  of  the 
church,  rich  in  chalices  and  crosses,  were  shown  to  us  ;  but  they  are 
nothing  in  comparison  with  those  of  the  Cathedral  at  Milan.  In  a 
niche  of  the  cloisters,  a  mummy  of  one  of  the  Visconti  stands  erect, 
girt  with  a  red  sash  and  his  warrior  sword  at  his  side,  the  hilt  of  which 
bears  the  dragon  arms  of  the  family. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        507 

LETTER  XCII. 

DEPAKTCRE    FROM    JIILAN ARRIVAX  AT     COMO FIRST     VIEW     OF   THE 

LAKE SKETCH  OF  THE  SCENERY EXCURSION  TO  THE    VII.LA  d'eSTE 

THE  LATE  QUEEN  OF  ENGLAND — DESCRIPTION  OF  PLINIANA — ROUTE 

TO  LAKE  3L4GGIORE — VERESE — BANKS  OF  THE  TICIN ARONA — CO- 
LOSSUS OF  SAN  CARLO— SKETCH  OF  MAGGIORE — BORROJIEAN  ISLES — 
EXCURSION  TO  ISOLA  BELLA RIDE  TO  DOMO  d'oSSOLA. 

October,  1826. 

A  Savoyard  vetturino  was  employed  to  take  us  from  Milan,  by  the 
way  of  the  Italian  Lakes  and  across  the  Simplon,  to  Geneva,  stopping 
when,  where,  and  as  long  as  we  pleased.  He  gave  us  a  napoleon  to 
bind  the  bargain,  to  the  conditions  of  which  he  proved  faithful ;  though 
he  sometimes  gave  us  short  commons,  aroused  us  before  day,  and 
made  long  pauses  to  rest  his  horses.  Notwithstanding  these  slight 
deductions,  travelling  by  vettura  has  a  decided  preference  over  all 
other  modes,  both  in  point  of  economy  and  comfort.  The  interior  of 
the  coach  is  generally  spacious,  and  the  tourist  may  lounge  at  his  ease, 
read,  write,  or  look  at  the  country  from  the  windows.  He  is  relieved 
from  the  vexations  of  paying  off  postillions,  bespeaking  accommoda- 
tions, or  settling  bills  at  the  hotels. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  8th,  we  left  Milan  for  Lake  Como, 
distant  twenty-six  miles  in  a  northerly  direction.  From  the  Forum  of 
Napoleon,  a  parting  view  of  the  Cathedral  was  obtained,  just  as  the 
blushing  east  and  the  rising  sun  began  to  redden  its  Gothic  pinnacles. 
The  Virgin  was  the  first  to  welcome  the  returning  orb  of  day  ;  and  she 
was  arrayed  in  robes  of  gold,  while  the  streets  of  the  city  were  yet 
shadowy  and  cheerless.  After  the  belt  of  low  ground,  encircling  the 
walls,  had  been  traversed,  the  Alps  disclosed  themselves,  sweeping 
round  the  green  and  fertile  plains  of  Lombardy,  from  Verona  to  Turin, 
in  a  long,  semicircular,  and  serrated  chain.  Their  tops  were  already 
buried  in  snow,  brightened  by  the  beams  of  morning ;  and  the  very 
thought,  that  their  bleak  summits  were  to  be  climbed,  made  us  shud- 
der, in  anticipation  of  the  change  of  climate.  The  line  of  separation 
between  eternal  glaciers  and  verdure  almost  as  perpetual,  was  very 
strongly  marked  even  at  this  distance,  and  formed  a  most  striking  fea- 
ture in  the  prospect. 

At  noon  we  reached  Como,  and  had  an  enchanting  view  of  the 
l^ake,  in  winding  down  the  long  hill,  which  rises  at  its  southern  end. 
The  day  was  as  serene  and  mild  as  summer :  and  no  picture  could  ex- 


508        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

ceed  in  beauty  the  azure  and  bright  expanse  of  water,  set  in  the  eme- 
rald of  its  shores.  As  economy  of  time,  as  well  as  the  favourable  state 
of  the  weather,  urged  despatch,  a  boat  fitted  up  in  the  style  of  the  Ve- 
netian gondola,  with  gay  curtains  and  a  table  for  eating,  drinking,  or 
writing,  according  to  the  propensities  of  the  passengers,  was  imme- 
diately chartered  for  the  afternoon,  to  take  us  up  the  Lake  as  far  as 
circumstances  would  permit  ;  and  our  gallant  barge,  driven  by  two 
oarsmen,  soon  produced  the  only  ripple  upon  the  unruffled  mirror. 
The  scenery  of  Como  is  characterized  by  beauty  rather  than  grandeur. 
It  is  less  wild  and  lonely  than  that  of  the  Lago  di  Garda.  Its  borders 
are  rural,  soft,  and  cheerful.  The  hills  ranging  along  either  shore,  as 
nearly  as  they  could  be  measured  by  the  eye,  are  from  1500  to  2000 
feet  in  height,  becoming  bolder  and  ruder,  as  they  extend  towards  the 
north  ;  of  secondary  formation  ;  sometimes  broken,  scarred,  and  naked  ; 
but  generally  clothed  with  hanging  woods  of  chesnut,  oak,  olives,  laurel, 
fir,  and  other  verdure,  and  cultivated  as  well  as  sprinkled  with  buildings 
to  their  summits.  They  frequently  rise  in  steep  acclivities  from  the 
very  margin,  or  form  high  promontories,  on  which  numerous  white 
villages  are  seated.  Although  the  Lake  is  fifty  or  sixty  miles  in  length, 
it  is  broken  into  short  reaches  by  intervening  capes.  Its  breadth  is 
from  two  to  seven  miles  ;  and  its  depth,  in  the  admeasurement  of  the 
boatmen,  one  hundred  men.  The  water  is  less  transparent  as  well  as 
less  sea-like  than  Benacus. 

Art  has  hardly  atoned  by  its  monuments,  for  the  two  many  innova- 
tions it  has  made  upon  the  solitary  charms  of  nature.  The  large  old 
town  of  Como,  exhibiting  its  fortresses,  towers,  and  ramparts,  its  har- 
bour, quays,  and  business-like  aspect,  at  the  foot  of  the  Lake  ;  the 
long  faubourgs  of  Borgo  Vico  and  San  Augostino,  extending  along  the 
eastern  and  western  shores  ;  the  numerous  hamlets,  villas,  farm-houses, 
and  convents,  scattered  over  the  neighbouring  heights,  have  dissolved 
the  enchantment  of  rustic  seclusion,  and  substituted  images  of  a  poor 
but  populous  district.  The  smoke  and  paddles,  the  bugles  and  swi- 
vels, of  two  steam-boats,*  plying  daily  from  end  to  end,  have  frighten- 
ed away  the  Naiads,  that  once  sported  in  the  pure  and  classical  waves  of 
the  LacusLarius.  A  strong  garrison  is  kept  up  at  Como,  to  prevent 
smuggling,  as  the  town  is  only  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  frontier  of 


*  These  boats,  bearing  the  appropriate  nanies  of  the  Lario  and  Plinio,  belong 
to  Ml'.  Church,  the  American  Consul  at  Geneva,  whose  enterprise  in  introducing 
improvements  of  this  description  has  been  alluded  to  in  a  former  letter.  He  here 
appears  to  meet  with  encoui  agement.  The  Lario  passed  us  from  the  head  of  the 
lake,  with  a  hundred  and  fifty  passengers  on  board. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         509 

Switzerland.  The  castles  and  monuments  arc  not  sufficiently  ruin- 
ous, to  become  picturesque  objects  in  the  landscape  ;  while  they 
possess  httle  merit  as  modern  works  of  art. 

After  a  voyage  of  five  miles,  affording  a  view  of  the  whole  region, 
we  landed  at  the  Villa  d'Este,  on  the  western  shore,  the  celebrated 
residence  of  the  late  Queen  Caroline  of  England.  If  the  outlines  of 
the  scenery  afforded  us  less  pleasure,  than  had  been  anticipated  from 
tlie  first  glance,  or  from  the  extravagant  descriptions  of  others,  the 
pictures  appeared  still  worse  in  detail.  The  situation  of  this  palace  is 
delightful.  It  stands  so  near  the  water,  that  we  leaped  from  the  boat, 
upon  the  flight  of  steps  leading  to  the  portico  of  the  long,  yellow,  two- 
story  edifice,  looking  abroad  upon  the  lake.  It  possesses  no  architec- 
tural grandeur  nor  beauty.  An  elderly  woman,  to  whom  the  keys 
have  been  committed  by  Torlonia,  the  present  proprietor,  led  the  way 
to  a  small,  neat  theatre,  the  boxes  of  which  are  supported  by  Ionic  pil- 
lars with  gilt  capitals,  and  hung  with  silken  curtains.  Over  the  Queen's 
pavilion,  in  front  of  the  stage,  the  crown  of  Great-Britain  is  conspicu- 
ously displayed  in  gilt  with  imitation  gems  ;  and  the  walls  are  lined 
with  mirrors,  in  the  French  style.  The  furniture  of  the  theatre  is  just 
as  it  was  left  eight  or  nine  years  ago,  but  looks  as  fresh  as  if  there  had 
been  a  play  on  the  evening  preceding  our  visit.  This  remark  may  be 
extended  to  the  whole  Villa,  of  which  there  has  been  no  resident,  since 
its  desertion  by  the  unfortunate  queen.  The  Duke  of  Bracciano  has 
too  many  palaces  about  the  Alban  Mount,  to  render  a  retreat  to  the 
distant  shores  of  Como  either  attractive  or  necessary.  Besides,  he 
would  not  care  to  be  a  successor  to  Count  Bergami,*  who  wears  a 
sprig  of  fresh  nobility  upon  his  coach,  as  well  as  the  wealthy  banker. 

The  numerous  apartments  of  the  chateau  retain  their  furniture  of 
sofas,  chairs,  tables,  and  window-curtains,  which  are  gaudy,  but  not 
rich,  nor  in  good  taste.  Frescos  consisting  of  nude  Venuses,  Cupids, 
and  other  soft  divinities,  were  observed  upon  the  ceiling.  They  are  of 
an  indelicate  and  voluptuous  character,  though  not  more  so,  than  the 
Italian  houses  generally  display.  The  most  objectionable  point  about 
the  establishment  is  a  temple  to  Isis,  fitted  up  by  tiie  express  orders  of 
the  queen,  near  her  drawing-room.  A  statue  of  the  goddess  was 
placed  in  a  dark  niche,  and  before  her  yet  stands  the  oracle,  in  the 
shape  of  a  helmet,  furnished  with  four  horns,  whence  the  responses 


"•  This  renowned  nobleman  now  resides  at  Pef;iro,  on  the  shores  of  the  Adriatic, 
where  Caroline  had  another  seat,  near  tlic  banks  of  the  Rubicon,  which  she  cross- 
ed at  her  peril.  The  Count  lives  like  most  other  of  the  Italian  nobility,  without 
any  very  active  pursuits,  or  any  visible  means  of  support. 


510        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

issue.  In  the  hands  of  the  image  was  a  gilt  book.  The  ante-rooms 
are  filled  with  Egyptian  ornaments.  Such  a  fantastic  idea  betrays  a 
species  of  insanity.  To  make  the  matter  worse,  while  a  costly  shrine 
to  the  pagan  divinity  was  raised,  a  chapel  dedicated  to  the  "  Virgini  Dei- 
parse,"  commenced  by  General  Pino,  the  former  proprietor  of  the  Villa, 
was  wholly  neglected,  and  is  now  the  depository  of  a  cartoon  of  Diana, 
Cupids  with  broken  limbs,  and  the  old  scenes  of  the  theatre.  Inquiry 
was  made  for  the  celebrated  chambers,  which  were  examined  with 
such  acumen  by  the  British  Commission  to  the  Continent ;  but  they 
are  locked  up,  and  there  is  no  admission. 

The  embellishments  of  the  grounds  are  generally  in  bad  taste,  con- 
sisting of  straight  walks  leading  up  the  hill,  Egyptian  temples  covered 
with  coarse  mosaics,  and  rude  statues.  To  this  remark,  there  are 
some  exceptions.  A  beautiful  httle  Grecian  temple  of  Veronese 
marble  rises  in  a  tangled  copse  of  laurel,  and  canopies  statues  of  Te- 
lemachus  and  Mentor,  who  here  find  a  retreat  as  green  and  cool,  as 
the  fabled  grottos  of  Calypso.  Near  by,  a  brook  descends  from  the 
slope,  leaping  from  rock  to  rock  and  babbling  through  the  shades,  till 
it  joins  the  lake  below.  At  its  mouth  is  a  miniature  port,  in  which 
the  queen's  yacht  lies  moored,  just  as  it  was  left  by  her.  General 
Pino,  to  whom  many  of  the  decorations  of  this  villa  are  ascribable, 
seems  to  have  been  a  doting  warrior,  as  fond  of  bastions  as  Corporal 
Trim  and  my  uncle  Toby.  On  the  olive-clad  steep,  which  overhangs 
the  gardens,  he  built  a  citadel  in  imitation  of  Taragona,  in  Spain,  with 
a  terrace  winding  up  to  the  walls,  which  may  be  comfortably  scaled, 
without  the  trouble  of  climbing  the  rugged  rocks. 

Caroline  here  expended  large  sums  of  money.  She  opened  an  ex- 
cellent road  from  her  Villa  through  the  Borgo  Vico  to  Como.  It  cost 
her  100,000  francs.  An  anecdote  was  related  by  one  of  our  boat- 
men, which  was  highly  creditable  to  a  woman,  who  was  not  destitute 
of  virtues,  whatever  may  have  been  her  faults.  The  house  of  a  poor 
family  was  burned  down.  Hearing  of  the  calamity  and  of  the  dis- 
tress of  itsinmates,  she  directed  a  new  building  to  be  erected  for  their 
accommodation,  at  her  own  expense.  The  offences  with  which  she 
was  charged,  are  supported  by  the  current  opinion  at  Como.  Her 
Milanese  friends  cut  her  acquaintance  ;  though  secretly  perhaps  they 
were  no  better  than  herself.  But  peace  to  the  shade  of  an  unfortu- 
nate princess,  who  after  all  may  have  been  innocent,  and  whom  the 
bitterness  of  persecution  hurried  to  the  grave. 

Pursuing  our  voyage  and  crossing  the  lake,  we  eflfected  another 
landing  at  Phniana,  on  the  eastern  shore,  eight  miles  from  Como.  It 
is  situated  under  high  clifls,  which  are  nearly  perpendicular,  clad  with 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        511 

hanging  groves  of  cypress.  A  noble  cascade  dashes  down  the  rocks, 
from  a  height  of  one  hundred  feet,  and  lashes  the  water  below  into  a 
foam.  The  front  of  the  large  solitary  palace  rises  out  of  the  lake, 
and  they  sit  and  fish  at  the  windows  of  the  principal  saloon.  Its  base- 
ment resembles  a  mill,  rather  than  a  chateau  ;  since  the  copious  foun- 
tain, so  minutely  described  by  Phny  the  Younger,  flows  under  the  walls, 
with  the  roar  of  a  gate-way,  pouring  from  a  cavern  in  the  cliffs  aliove. 
The  grotto  whence  the  stream  issues,  has  been  artificially  adorned 
with  pillars.  Its  waters  are  perfectly  transparent,  gushing  out  from  a 
bed  of  limestone.  The  basin  was  wet  a  foot  above  the  surface,  and 
the  aged  hermit,  who  was  found  at  the  Villa,  informed  us  that  the  re- 
fluent tide  had  just  subsided.  He  stated  on  the  authority  of  personal 
observation  for  more  than  half  a  century,  that  the  fountain  is  very  irre- 
gular in  its  intermissions.  Sometimes  it  ebbs  and  flows  only  thrice  a 
<lay,  and  at  others,  four  and  even  five  times.  I  will  not  trouble  my 
readers  nor  myself  with  speculations,  in  attempting  to  account  for  this 
phenomenon,  which  is  not  of  rare  occurrence,  and  which  derives  its 
celebrity  solely  from  its  classical  associations. 

The  letter  of  Pliny,  who  was  a  native  of  Como,  and  here  had  his 
summer  retreat,  is  inscribed  in  full  on  the  walls  of  one  of  the  apart- 
ments, together  with  as  much  other  Latin  and  Italian  as  a  person  could 
read  in  a  week.  The  noble  proprietor  has  added,  by  way  of  embel- 
lishment, noseless  images  of  all  his  ancestors  since  the  flood.  Not  a 
particle  of  taste  is  visible  in  the  dilapidated  Villa.  It  affords  an 
enchanting  view  of  another  reach  of  the  lake  above,  for  eight  or  ten 
miles,  where  its  windings  arc  lost  among  the  mountains.  The  upper 
.section  is  much  more  wild  and  romantic,  than  the  lower  end,  reaching 
hence  to  Como.  Its  waters  are  discharged  about  midway,  from  its 
eastern  shore,  and  form  the  river  Adda.  On  a  point  of  land  not  far 
from  1  iiuiana,  is  a  small  church  and  an  image  of  the  Virgin,  where 
the  boatmen  moor  their  skiffs  and  pay  their  vows.  Narrow  as  the 
channel  is,  and  deeply  as  it  is  embosomed  among  the  hills,  it  is  subject 
to  sudd*^!!  and  violent  squalls  from  the  Alps,  vvhicli  lash  it  into  fury. 

Our  excursion  might  have  been  agreeably  extended  farther  north  ; 
but  time  would  not  permit.  On  the  return,  the  oarsmen  hoisted  their 
white  sail  to  the  breeze,  which  sprang  up  at  evening,  and  bore  us 
back  in  season,  to  see  the  sun  go  down  in  brightness  upon  the  battle- 
ments of  Como,  and  the  green  summits  in  its  vicinity.  A  ramble  over 
the  town  concluded  the  pleasures  of  the  day.  The  moon  was  so 
bright,  as  to  enable  us  to  read  the  inscription  in  honour  of  Pliny,  on 
the  front  of  the  Cathedral. 

In  an  Italian  journal,  at  the  village  coffee-house,  we  found  extracts 


512        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

from  New-York  papers  to  the  2d  of  September,  having  in  little  more 
than  a  month  crossed  the  Atlantic  and  the  Alps,  reaching  the  secluded 
shores  of  Como.  Our  trusty  Savoyard  provided  genteel  accommoda- 
tions at  the  hotel.  The  chambers  were  neatly  furnished  ;  and  among 
the  bounties  of  the  table  were  several  varieties  offish  from  the  lake. 

Early  next  morning,  we  resumed  our  journey  across  the  country 
towards  Lake  Maggiore.  Half  an  hour  was  occupied,  while  the 
vetturino  was  harnessing  his  team,  in-  paying  another  visit  to  the  Ca- 
thedral, and  looking  at  its  ornaments.  It  is  a  stately  edifice  of  white 
marble  and  of  mixed  architecture.  Statues  of  the  two  Pliny's  stand 
on  each  side  of  the  front  door.  Some  of  the  chapels  are  splendid  ; 
but  terra  cotta  saints  and  votive  offerings  were  quite  too  abundant. 
Over  the  inner  door,  was  observed  a  pompous  inscription  to  Ferdi- 
nand of  Austria,  who  claims  the  honour  of  having  established  religion 
in  Europe — a  work  commonly  ascribed  to  its  divine  Author.  A  new 
and  handsome  Lyceum  has  lately  been  erected  near  the  Milanese  gate. 
The  walls  of  Como  are  lofty  and  massive,  flanked  with  towers,  which 
rise  with  a  good  degree  of  dignity  from  the  eminences  back  of  the 
town. 

As  we  lingered  a  little  longer  than  was  anticipated,  in  taking  a  last 
view  of  the  lake  slumbering  in  the  brightness  of  an  autumnal  morning, 
the  coachman  pushed  on,  and  left  us  to  walk  up  a  hill  of  two  miles. 
On  its  summit,  overlooking  the  surrounding  country,  a  pretty  chateau 
was  observed,  bearing  tiie  initials  of  queen  Caroline  upon  the  gate,  in 
the  same  style  they  were  found  at  the  Villa  d'Este.  This  was  doubt- 
less one  of  her  Lodges.     It  exhibits  more  taste  than  her  palace. 

The  skies  to-day  were  among  the  most  pure,  brilhant,  and  genial, 
that  had  been  witnessed  in  Italy  ;  and  our  ride  across  a  rich  undulating 
country  abounding  in  fertile  vales  and  clear  waters,  was  delightful. 
The  snowy  line  of  the  Alps,  basking  in  the  solar  blaze,  was  constantly 
before  us,  embracing  St.  Gothard  and  Monte  Rosa,  two  of  the  highest 
summits.  Nothing  could  exceed  the  grandeur  and  dazzUng  splendour 
of  the  latter,  heaving  its  eternal  rocks  and  glaciers  into  the  deep  blue 
firmament,  without  a  cloud  to  obstruct  the  view.  Its  height  is  13,250 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  Mediterranean  ;  exceeding,  by  nearly  one 
half,  the  elevation  of  any  mountain  I  had  before  seen.  My  companion 
had  gazed  upon  the  Andes  themselves,  to  which  these  stupendous  piles 
are  but  mole-hills  ;  though  their  hoary  tops  seemed  quite  high  enough 
to  be  traversed  in  a  coach. 

Passing  Malneta  and  other  small  villages,  at  mid-day  we  reached 
Verese,  a  large  town  on  tlie  borders  of  a  lake  of  the  same  name.  It 
is  the  seat  of  many  handsome  palaces,  and  of  the  Milanese  nobility. 


LEFIERS  VliOM  EUROPE.  ol,i 

Rl  certain  seasons  of  tlio  year.  The  streets  were  filled  with  people 
and  merchandise,  collected  at  the  annual  fair.  A  coarseness  of  fea- 
tures, costumes,  and  manners  is  displayed  by  the  peasantry,  not  to  bo 
met  with  south  of  the  Po.  In  the  entrance  to  the  large  hotel,  the 
names  of  the  Grand  Duke  of  Tuscany  and  of  the  King  of  the  two 
Sicilies  were  conspicuously  posted  up,  with  precise  dates  of  the  year, 
month,  and  day  when  they  here  slept  with  their  royal  wives. 

Two  miles  beyond  the  tow^n,  we  had  a  charming  view  of  Lake 
Verese,  of  small  dimensions,  but  beautifully  cradled  among  the  hills. 
Its  shores  are  green  and  rural.  Two  promontories  nearly  intersect 
tliis  minature  sheet  of  water,  and  contribute  much  to  its  secluded 
cliarms.  On  its  eastern  border  rises  a  broken  hill  of  considerable 
elevation,  upon  the  very  summit  of  which  a  white  village  is  perched, 
forming  one  of  the  most  picturesque  images  imaginable.  The  country 
here  assumes  an  aspect  essentially  different  from  the  dull  and  unvaried 
scenery  of  Lombardy,  in  the  vicinity  of  IMilan,  and  on  the  alluvial 
banks  of  the  Po. 

The  vetturino  knew  as  little  as  ourselves  of  the  intricate  cross-roads, 
and  the  poor  fellow  went  eight  miles  out  of  his  way,  before  he  disco- 
vered his  error.  In  consequence  of  this  accident,  we  did  not  arrive  at 
Sesto  Calende,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Ticin,  at  the  outlet  of  Lake 
Maggiore,  till  after  dark,  and  were  obliged  to  take  lodgings  for  the 
night  at  a  miserable  hotel.  Mean  and  dirty  as  its  chambers  are, 
they  were  filled  with  swarms  of  English  travellers,  on  their  way  to  the 
south  of  Italy,  to  seek  a  winter  residence,  whore  tliey  can  live  cheaper, 
as  well  as  more  pleasantly  than  in  their  own  country.  Not  less  than 
five  or  six  thousand,  like  birds  of  passage,  annually  seek  refuge  in  the 
sunny  climes  beyond  the  Alps. 

The  next  morning  at  daylight  we  crossed  the  broad  current  of  the 
Ticin  in  a  boat,  which  Charon  himself  would  have  condemned  as  un- 
seaworthy,  and  landed  on  the  opposite  shore  in  Piedmont,  re-entering 
the  dominions  of  his  Sardinian  Majesty.  A  full  hour  was  occupied  in 
an  examination  of  our  passports  and  trunks  at  the  Dogana,  during 
which  time  our  only  source  of  amusement  was  a  shrine  to  the  Virgin, 
standing  at  the  corner  of  the  streets,  exhibiting  on  one  side  a  skeleton, 
wearing  the  triple  crown  of  the  Pope  ;  and  on  the  other,  a  similar 
figure,  with  the  mitre  of  a  bishop  upon  his  head.  The  ornaments  were 
(juitc  allegorical,  and  seemed  designed  to  admonish  wayfaring  men, 
that  ecclesiastical  dignitaries  as  well  as  ether  mortals  must  die,  and 
that  even  Pontiffs  must  resign  their  diadems.  A  wine-cart,  containing 
half  a  dozen  pretty  peasant  girls,  with  their  faces  stained  with  the 
purple  vintage,  and  singing  a  merry  song  in  full  chorus,  afforded  a 
VOL.  ir.  65 


514        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

much  more  cheerful  image,  than  the  bones  and  death's  heads  of  the 
Virgin. 

At  Arona  we  left  the  coach,  and  walked  through  the  large  old  town. 
situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Lake.  The  streets  were  overrun  with  beg- 
gars, whose  importunities  almost  amounted  to  personal  assaults,  be- 
setting us  upon  the  side-walks,  and  bawling  out  in  all  the  cant  of  men- 
dicity. They  seemed  to  be  confirmed  vagrants,  who  hve  by  their 
profession,  poor  as  it  is.  The  inhabitants  of  Arona  were  celebrating 
their  annual  fair,  and  all  the  neighbouring  peasantry  had  flocked  in. 
It  was  a  miserable  show  both  of  merchandise  and  population.  The 
females  here  wear  a  rakish  straw  hat,  turned  down  before  and  behind, 
more  becoming  a  jockey  than  the  face  of  a  pretty  woman. 

In  the  lower  section  of  Lake  Maggiore,  I  was  sadly  disappointed. 
Its  shores  are  low,  reedy,  and  tame,  displaying  not  a  single  interesting 
feature.  It  has  neither  the  solitary  grandeur  of  the  Lago  di  Garda, 
nor  the  rural  and  picturesque  beauty  of  Como  or  Verese.  We  have 
a  hundred  lakes  in  our  country,  in  all  respects  its  superior  ;  and  it  will 
sustain  no  comparison  with  those  of  Ireland,  England,  or  Scotland. 
Such  were  my  first  impressions,  derived  from  a  view  which  the  heights 
about  Arona  presented.  But  it  was  subsequently  ascertained,  that 
the  foot  does  not  furnish  a  fair  specimen  of  the  scenery  upon  its 
shores. 

We  walked  a  mile  or  more  up  a  most  tedious  hill,  to  look  at  a  co- 
lossal  statue  in  honour  of  St.  Charles  Borromeo,  Archbishop  of  Milan. 
a  native  of  this  region,  as  well  as  its  present  patron.  The  work  cost 
upwards  of  {^200,000,  and  it  is  not  worth  as  many  sous,  except  for 
old  brass  and  copper,  to  be  wrought  into  tea-kettles  and  the  boilers  of 
steam-boats.  Although  it  is  mounted  upon  one  of  the  highest  sum- 
mits in  the  vicinity,  it  is  set  so  far  from  the  brow,  as  to  be  invisible 
from  the  road.  But  this  is  no  loss  to  the  traveller  ;  for  who  ever  took 
delight  in  looking  at  a  colossus,  except  as  a  mere  object  of  childish 
curiosity  ? 

The  statue  itself  is  seventy-two  feet  in  height,  standing  on  a  pedestal 
thirty-two  feet  from  the  ground,  giving  an  aggregate  of  something 
more  than  a  hundred  feet  to  the  crown  of  the  head.  The  hands  are 
of  bronze,  and  the  rest  of  brass.  St.  Charles  is  in  the  attitude  of 
blessing  his  native  town,  with  his  right  arm  outstretched,  and  a  book 
under  his  left.  I  contented  myself  with  climbing  a  ladder  to  the 
pedestal,  and  bowing  at  the  feet  of  such  an  idol.  But  my  companion 
and  an  English  tourist,  who  joined  us  on  the  hill,  crept  under  the 
robes  of  the  Saint,  took  a  pinch  of  snuff  in  his  nose,  and  examined  the 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  515 

dura-mater  and  processes  of  his  head,  in  which  eight  men  may  be 
comfortably  lodged. 

Rejoining  the  carriage,  we  journeyed  onward  along  the  immediate 
margin  of  the  Lake,  and  upon  the  great  road  of  the  Simplon.  Neither 
the  one  nor  the  other  here  possesses  any  extraordinary  degree  of 
interest.  The  shores  are  flat  and  the  beach  sandy.  About  noon,  the 
far-famed  Borromean  Isles  came  into  view.  They  are  three  in  num- 
ber, the  Madre,  Isola  Bella,  and  Pcscatori,  situated  in  a  deep  bay  or 
arm  of  the  lake,  setting  up  into  the  hdls  towards  the  west.  Maggiore 
at  this  point  assumes  something  of  the  grandeur,  which  its  name  im- 
ports. Its  width  may  be  something  Uke  six  or  eight  miles,  and  its 
whole  length  about  fifty.  Its  shores  here  exhibit  an  alpine  character, 
the  mountains  becoming  higher,  more  rugged,  and  picturesque.  The 
borders  are  sometimes  fringed  with  deep  forests,  and  at  others,  with 
orchards  of  olives  and  vineyards,  studded  with  white  villages  and  ham- 
lets, like  those  of  Como.  The  three  islands,  lying  within  a  mile  of 
one  another,  are  too  small  to  form  a  prominent  feature  in  the  land- 
scape, and  too  artificial  to  excite  a  very  high  degree  of  interest.  Thev 
are  not  comparable  in  beauty  with  those  about  the  bay  of  Naples,  and 
on  the  western  coast  of  Italy. 

We  took  a  boat  immediately  and  visited  the  Isola  Bella,  which  is  a 
mile  and  a  half  from  the  shore.  It  is  accounted  by  for  the  finest  of 
the  group,  and  the  few  attractions  it  presented,  discouraged  us  from 
extending  our  excursion  to  any  of  the  others.  The  most  extravagant 
epithets  have  been  wasted  upon  this  pile  of  artificial  terraces,  rising 
eight  stories  above  the  surface  of  the  lake,  covered  with  palaces,  pa- 
vilions, groves,  and  circular  walks.  It  has  been  called  the  isle  of 
Calypso,  the  isle  of  enchantment,  the  isle  of  the  blest,  and  I  know  not 
how  many  romantic  names,  besides  the  pretty  one  wliich  it  now  bears. 
Rousseau  is  said  to  have  contemplated  laying  the  scene  of  his  Heloise  in 
its  delicious  bowers ;  but  the  impassioned  sentiments  of  his  heroine 
would  have  congealed  on  so  unnatural  a  spot,  even  in  the  sunny  climes 
of  Italy. 

It  may  excite  wonder,  that  wealth  has  created  so  many  embellish- 
ments, upon  what  was  originally  a  ledge  of  rocks,  entirely  destitute  of 
soil ;  but  taste  never  seeks  to  produce  vulgar  astonishment,  by  strange 
things,  in  rural  scenery  or  in  the  works  of  art.  The  bare  idea  that  all 
these  formal  circles  of  terraces,  plants  in  flower-pots,  and  grottos  with 
stucco  walls,  were  carried  from  the  shore  in  scows,  and  heaped 
together  as  men  construct  a  gun-battery,  was  siiflicient  to  dispel  the 
charm  of  romance  ;  and  I  rambled  through  the  admired  retreats  of  the 


r>It)  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

Isola  Bella  With  as  much  indifference,  as  I  should  over  a  dismantled 
fort?css,  provided  it  rose  from  the  bosom  of  as  fine  a  lake,  and  its 
bulwarks  commanded  as  rich  a  prospect.  Saints  may  know  how  to 
build  churches  and  adorn  shrines  ;  but  there  is  at  least  one  Architect, 
who  is  more  skilful  in  the  formation  of  islands,  and  the  archbishop 
never  should  have  been  canonized  for  the  miracle  he  has  here  wrought. 

We  landed  at  a  lateral  flight  of  steps,  where  a  group  of  little  girls 
met  us  with  dishes  of  grapes  and  other  kinds  of  fruit.  There  are  two 
hundred  inhabitants  on  the  island,  a  hotel,  one  or  two  coffee-houses, 
with  all  the  appendages  of  a  village,  not  of  the  neatest  kind.  A  ter- 
race was  climbed  to  the  top,  which  is  perhaps  100  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  lake.  Upon  the  summit  is  an  area  fifty  feet  square,  composed 
of  stone  and  mortar,  embellished  with  a  rampant  steed,  the  rider  of 
which  is  a  boy.  Other  rude  statues  are  posted  like  sentinels  round 
the  balustrade.  We  walked  quite  round  the  islet,  which  is  perhaps  a 
mile  in  circuit.  The  front  consists  of  terraces,  retreating  inward  as 
they  ascend,  like  a  regular  flight  of  steps  ;  and  the  different  stages  are 
covered  with  red  earthen-ware,  filled  with  oranges,  citrons,  and  other 
shrubs.  The  grottos,  as  they  are  called,  resemble  the  gloomy  and 
tasteless  cloisters  of  a  convent.  On  the  eastern  side  is  a  pretty  grove 
of  laurel,  overhanging  the  lake,  which  is  the  only  natural  feature  in  all 
this  little  creation  of  St.  Charles. 

The  palace  stands  on  the  northern  margin.  In  the  basement  is  a 
suite  of  rooms,  the  walls  of  which  are  paved  with  pebbles  from  the 
Jake,  and  lined  with  ordinary  statues  by  a  Milanese  artist.  The  upper 
rooms  contain  a  gallery  of  pictures,  which  are  much  upon  a  par  with 
the  other  decorations,  and  among  which  we  found  few  works  of  merit. 
Fifty  or  sixty  of  the  Borromean  family  now  occupy  the  numerous  apart- 
ments. Such,  I  believe,  is  a  pretty  faithful  picture  of  this  enchanted 
island,  to  which  the  Sirens  of  Lago  Maggiore  have  attracted  so  many 
travellers,  by  their  illusive  incantations. 

From  the  pyramidal  apex  of  the  Isola  Bella,  we  had  a  fair  view  of 
Madre — the  mother  of  the  group — who  presents  fewer  allurements 
than  her  affected  and  graceless,  though  flattered,  daughter.  Her  ten- 
ement, exposed  to  the  sun,  and  rising  from  a  sandy  beach,  looked  quite 
too  substantial  for  the  residence  of  a  water-nymph  ;  and  of  the  two, 
I  would  prefer  to  visit  the  huts  of  the  four  hundred  fishermen,  who  dry 
their  nets  upon  Pescatori.  But  our  boat  dashed  by  the  latter  without 
a  call  or  a  regret.  A  head-wind  was  so  strong,  that  the  waves  broke 
into  the  boat,  compelling  us  to  land  at  the  nearest  point,  and  to  walk 
two  milei?  before  we  overtook  the  coach  at  Baveno.     The  hills  along 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         517 

the  shore  of  the  lake  have  here  been  excavated  into  immense  quarries, 
and  blocks  of  granite  strew  the  beach.  Materials  for  building  are 
taken  hence  down  the  Ticin,  and  through  a  canal  to  Milan. 

Refreshments  were  obtained  at  a  small  inn,  the  master  of  which  was 
an  old  Spaniard,  who  kept  a  hotel  for  many  years  at  Cadiz,  turned 
soldier,  and  in  the  late  revolutions  of  Europe,  was  thrown  by  accident 
upon  the  remote  shores  of  Maggioro,  where  he  has  resumed  his  form- 
er occupation.  He  looked  at  the  mountains,  as  his  only  almanack, 
and  informed  us,  that  the  following  day  would  be  clear,  with  high  winds 
(^rabidi  venti.)  His  family  used  us  kindly,  and  each  of  them  took  formal 
leave,  tendering  their  good  wishes  in  soft  superlatives,  for  a  prosperous 
journey  over  the  Alps,  as  if  the  genius  of  Napoleon  had  not  divested 
the  route  of  all  its  terrors. 

After  recording  our  names  in  an  album,  in  which  the  signatures  of 
many  of  our  countrymen  were  found,  we  set  out  at  4  o'clock  P.  M.  for 
Domo  d'Ossola,  distant  twenty  miles,  and  were  soon  lost  among  the 
hills.  The  great  road  of  the  Simplon  pursues  the  windings  of  a  deep 
vale,  watered  by  the  Toccia ;  a  beautiful  stream,  the  banks  of  which 
are  sprinkled  with  secluded  hamlets,  and  are  fertile  in  corn  and  wine. 
Its  eastern  side  is  bounded  by  bleak  and  uninterrupted  ridges  of  rocks. 
Towards  the  west,  two  or  three  other  secluded  valleys,  still  green  and 
sunny,  opened  from  the  base  of  Monte  Rosa,  which  reared  its  glitter- 
ing summit  above  the  rude  masses  of  intervening  rocks.  This  giant 
even  among  the  Alps  was  now  within  a  few  miles  of  us,  and  its  form 
was  distinctly  traced.  Its  stupendous  cone  is  finely  rounded  off,  and 
its  sides  do  not  appear  to  present  many  asperities.  Like  a  child  who 
amuses  his  mind  with  vain  desires  and  "  thick-coming  fancies,"  I  wished 
myself  upon  the  topmost  glacier,  but  for  one  hour  on  this  evening  of 
glorious  sunshine,  that  I  might  survey  the  charms  of  Italy  spread  at 
my  feet,  take  a  birds-eye  view  of  the  Po  and  Apennines,  and  see  the 
chain  of  lakes,  set  like  brilliants  in  the  green  plains  of  Lombardy. 
But  the  sun  went  down  behind  the  crags  of  granite  upon  our  left, 
Avhich  threw  their  deep  shadows  across  the  path  ;  when  turning  and 
looking  through  a  long  vista  of  mountains,  opening  upon  Lake  Maggi- 
ore,  we  caught  a  last  glimpse  of  the  blue  heavens  of  Italy,  as  pure, 
serene,  and  resplendent  as  ever.  The  feelings  of  the  moment,  in 
bidding  farewell  forever  to  the  land  of  azure  skies  and  classical  waters, 
of  ancient  monuments  and  modern  arts,  of  poetry,  music,  and  love, 
may  be  better  imagined  than  described. 

We  did  not  reach  Domo  d'  Ossola  till  8  o'clock  in  the  evening. 
This  town  is  situated  at  the  head  of  the  vale,  encircled  on  all  sides 


518  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

by  the  Alps.  It  has  two  thousand  inhabitants,  a  mimic  Corse,  in 
imitation  of  that  at  Milan,  and  a  large  Duomo,  whence  the  name  of 
the  village  was  derived — the  Cathedral  of  the  vale  of  Ossola.  The 
place  has  a  good  deal  of  bustle  and  business,  being  near  the  frontier, 
and  the  rendezvous  of  Italian  and  transalpine  merchants.  Good  ac- 
commodations were  obtained  at  the  hotel,  which  afforded  us  a  night 
of  quiet  repose,  preparatory  to  the  long  and  arduous  Journey  on  the 
following  day. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        oiy 

LETTER  XCIII. 

UEPARTITRE  PROM  DOMO  d'oSSOLA PASSAGE  OF  TUE  SIMPLON DESCRIP- 
TION   OF    THE    KOAD — BRIDGE    OF   CREVOLA ALPINE    SCENERY OLD> 

PATH MONKS REFUGES HAMLETS AVALANCHES VILLAGE    OP 

SIMPLON — VIEW  FROM  THE  SVMMIT  OF  THE  3I0UNTAIJS' — GLACIERS  OF 

SWITZERLAND — TORRENTS  OF   THE  GANTEH  AND   SALTINE ARRIVAL 

AT  BRIGUE. 

October^  1826. 

We  rose  at  4  o'clock,  on  the  morning  of  the  1 1th,  and  took  breakfast 
by  candle-light.  Our  Savoyard  here  reinforced  his  team  with  four  ad- 
ditional horses  and  a  postillion  ;  but  notwithstanding  the  vigilance  of 
the  two  guides,  the  streets  were  so  dark  that  in  going  out  of  the  town, 
the  coach  ran  against  the  wall  and  detained  us,  til!  the  bell  of  the  Ca- 
thedral rang  the  knell  of  five  o'clock  in  our  ears.  In  the  stillness  of 
night,  the  roar  of  distant  waters  was  heard  around  us,  and  the  sha- 
dowy forms  of  mountains  were  indistinctly  traced,  by  being  thrown 
against  the  sky.  The  twinkling  of  a  (gw  stars,  emerging  occasionally 
from  transient  clouds,  gave  promise  of  a  favourable  day. 

At  dawn  we  reached  the  entrance  of  the  gallery  or  terrace,  which 
spans  the  Alps  for  a  distance  of  forty  miles  ;  hewn  the  greater  part  of 
the  way  through  mountains  of  granite  to  the  width  of  twenty-five  feet ; 
supported  by  walls  sometimes  two  hundred  feet  in  height ;  hanging 
frequently  upon  perpendicular  ledges  ;  piercing  a  dozen  impassable 
barriers  of  rock  ;  and  bridging  twenty-five  torrents.  Such  are  some 
of  the  features  of  this  stupendous  work,  of  the  grandeur  of  which  it 
is  impossible  to  convey  an  adequate  idea.  What  would  be  thought  of 
a  good  carriage  road,  along  which  it  should  be  unnecessary  for  horses 
to  break  from  a  trot,  passing  the  summit  of  the  White  Hills,  the  high- 
est in  the  United  States  ?  Yet  such  a  miracle  would  be  nothing  to 
the  Simplon.  The  sides  are  always  guarded  by  railings,  balustrades, 
and  pillars,  so  as  to  render  it  perfectly  secure. 

After  the  pacification  of  Europe,  the  Austrian  soldiers  in  their 
passage  of  the  Alps,  to  deluge  Italy  with  other  swarms  of  Goths  from 
the  north,  broke  off  with  sledge-hammers  the  tops  of  nearly  all  the 
columns  lining  this  road,  and  attempted  to  demolish  tlie  bridges'. 
But  they  found  the  monuments,  like  the  fame  of  Napoleon,  too  inde- 
structible and  eternal  to  be  prostrated  by  the  hands  of  such  barbarians, 
who  have  merely  left  traces  of  their  infamy,  to  excite  the  scorn  and 
detestation  of  travellers.     Had  the  Emperor  of  Austria  and  King 


520         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

of  Sardinia  the  least  respect  for  their  own  characters,  they  would  im- 
mediately set  about  obliterating  every  vestige  of  such  brutal  acts  of 
violence  ;  but  instead  of  taking  this  course,  they  neglect  other  neces- 
sary repairs,  and  seem  determined  to  hasten  the  destruction  of  a  work, 
which  perpetuates  the  glory  of  a  name  they  cordially  hate.  Yet  the 
sovereign  of  marmots  and  anchovies  keeps  on  an  exorbitant  toll,  and 
hence  derives  no  inconsiderable  part  of  his  revenue,  to  be  expended 
in  founding  new  monasteries,  endowing  altars,  and  pampering  priests' 
and  monks. 

Had  Napoleon  left  no  other  memorials  of  his  greatness,  this  monu- 
ment alone  would  have  made  him  immortal ;  for  he  has  inscribed  his 
glory  upon  the  eternal  rocks  of  the  Alps,  which  neither  torrents  nor 
avalanches,  the  ravages  of  time  nor  the  rage  of  kings,  can  wholly  obli- 
terate. Eustace  asserts,  that  the  terrace  of  the  Simplon  cannot  be 
Gompared  in  magnitude  with  the  Appian  Way.  What  consummate 
folly !  It  as  much  transcends  the  pavements  of  the  old  Romans,  as 
Mont  Blanc  and  Monte  Rosa  surpass  the  Alban  Mount  or  the  cliffs  of 
Anxur,  in  elevation  and  grandeur. 

Others  have  attempted  to  detract  from  the  merits  of  the  enterprise, 
by  impeaching  the  motives  of  Bonaparte,  and  by  calling  it  a  military 
pathway  opened  for  the  accommodation  of  his  armies,  at  the  expense 
of  a  vanquished  nation.  If  all  this  were  true,  it  could  not  diminish 
the  subhmity  of  the  conception,  nor  change  the  character  of  the  work 
itself.  But  the  fact  is,  that  the  plan  belongs  exclusively  to  Napoleon, 
and  that  it  was  executed  by  an  amicable  arrangement,  at  the  joint 
expense  of  France  and  Italy.  French  engineers  and  labourers  con- 
structed that  part,  which  extends  from  the  Rhone  to  the  summit  of 
the  Simplon  ;  while  the  Milanese,  under  the  superintendence  of  Fab- 
broni,  completed  the  remaining  section,  which  is  by  far  the  grandest 
and  most  stupendous  portion  of  the  undertaking.  The  geological 
formation  of  the  Italian  side  is  primitive  rock,  and  the  opposite  side, 
chiefly  secondary,  consisting  of  schist  and  argillaceous  slate.  Some- 
thing like  a  ton  of  gunpowder  was  consumed  in  blowing  through  the 
solid  masses  of  granite  ;  and  never  was  ammunition  more  successfully 
or  usefully  expended.  Three  thousand  men  were  employed  from 
1801  till  1805,  in  the  execution  of  this  imperial  project. 

The  scenery  at  the  entrance  of  the  terrace,  in  the  approach  from 
Italy,  comports  with  the  grandeur  of  the  work,  and  impresses  the  mind 
with  feelings  of  awe.  I  recoiled  with  a  thrill  of  momentary  dread 
from  the  congregated  terrors  at  the  opening  of  the  gorge,  consisting  of 
enormous  masses  of  granite,  piled  together  in  the  rudest  manner,  and 
the  gigantic  works  of  art,  hewn  from  the  shattered  rocks.     The  ruins 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         521 

of  the  mountains  looked  as  if  another  race  of  Titans  had  been  warring 
ao-ainst  heaven,  and  febouring  to  shake  the  adamantine  throne  of  tlie 
Omnipotent.  Every  circumstance  seemed  to  conspire  in  heightening 
the  suhhmity  of  the  scene.  The  day-star  still  hung  upon  the  tops  of 
the  Alps,  and  the  blushes  of  the  east  had  just  begun  to  redden  the 
glaciers.  Pin  lUgh  of  morning  twilight  remained,  to  throw  over  objects 
a  partial  ubscui  ity,  and  to  magnify  their  proportions.  The  roar  of 
waters,  sent  back  in  a  thousand  echoes  from  the  hills,  was  dealbning. 
From  (he  bridge  of  the  Divftrio,  which  is  a  colossal  structure,  several 
Iiuu'lred  feet  in  length,  resting  on  arches  as  massive  and  durable  as 
the  precipices  with  which  they  are  incorporated,  we  looked  down  on 
the  sea-green  torrent,  tumbling  and  dashing  and  thundering  among  the 
fragments  of  the  mountains  in  the  chasm  below.  On  its  left  bank 
near  its  junction  with  the  Toccia,  in  the  hamlet  of  Crevola,  is  a  large 
iron  foundery,  the  fires  of  which  had  probably  been  kept  up  during  the 
night,  and  were  now  blazing  from  the  furnaces  and  glaring  through 
the  windows.  To  recur  to  a  classical  image,  it  appeared  as  though 
Vulcan  and  his  Cyclops  might  be  here  at  work,  forging  arms  for  a 
new  war  of  the  gods. 

Deserting  the  secluded,  romantic,  and  peaceful  vale,  which  had  been 
pursued  from  Lake  iMaggiore,  we  entered  that  of  Divcrio,  lined  with 
rugged  precipices  ;  narrow,  lonely,  and  wild  ;  noisy  with  descendir<r 
floods ;  and  shaggy  with  alpine  horrors.  Before  us  rose  peak  after 
peak,  heaving  their  wintry  tops  into  the  skies,  and  now  tinged  of  a 
roseate  hue  by  the  beams  of  a  bright  morning.  The  depths  of  the 
gorge,  (for  it  can  hardly  be  called  a  vale,)  ant'  the  banks  of  the  torrent, 
which  the  road  constantly  follows  to  the  heights  of  the  Simplon,  are 
skirted  with  fir,  weeping-birch,  alder,  willow,  rosodendron,  and  other 
species  of  mountain  plants.  Surprising  as  it  may  seem,  the  little  allu- 
vial patches,  upon  which  the  snows  above  shoot  their  avalanches,  and 
pour  their  icy  waters,  were  still  green,  and  in  many  places  enamelled 
with  autumnal  flowers.  The  solitude  of  the  glen,  unbroken  save  only 
by  the  music  of  the  elements,  would  be  appalling,  if  the  mind  were 
not  transported  in  a  delirium  of  ecstacy,  and  lost  to  all  ordinary  emo- 
tions. In  the  enthusiasm  of  the  moment,  it  forgets  its  little  thoughts 
and  cares,  absorbed  in  contemplating  the  matchless  grandeur  of  the 
scene.  Yet  this  pass,  with  all  its  rugged  sublimity,  is  said  to  be  less 
astounding  than  some  other  chasms  in  the  Alps.  It  is,  however,  as 
stupendous  in  its  features  as  I  have  any  desire  to  witness,  infinitely 
transcencling  in  the  reality  the  mean  combinations,  which  my  ima- 
gination had  formed. 

In  a  mile  or  two  after  crossing  the  bridge,  whicli  constitutes  the 

VOL.  IT.  6G 


&^,i 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 


noble  threshold  of  the  terrace,  we  passed  an  enormous  column,  lying 
with  its  intended  pedestal  by  the  "feide  of  the  road.  It  was  hewn  from 
the  neighbouring  precipices,  under  the  auspices  of  Napoleon,  and 
designed  to  embellish  the  Arch  of  the  Siniplon  at  Milan.  Its  dimen- 
sions are  something  hke  fifty  feet  in  length,  and  fifteen  in  circum- 
ference. In  the  act  of  rolling  from  the  quarry,  it  was  unfortunately 
broken  in  two  ;  and  its  colossal  and  prostrate  fragments,  arrested 
before  reaching  the  point  of  destination,  and  exciting  surprise  that  so 
much  strength  could  be  broken,  furnish  to  the  traveller  a  forcible 
emblem  of  the  fallen  fortunes  of  the  imperial  Exile,  whose  power  had 
become  too  disproportionate  and  unwieldy,  to  support  its  own  weight, 
substantial  as  were  the  materials  of  which  it  was  composed. 

Along  the  rocks  overhanging  the  turbulent  stream,  traces  of  the  old 
pathway,  which  led  through  these  deep  solitudes,  before  the  road  6f 
the  Simplon  was  constructed,  are  at  intervals  still  marked  by  the  eye.* 
It  sometimes  traversed  steeps  and  dizzy  precipices,  round  projections 
of  the  mountains,  and  on  natural  terraces  of  rock,  where  the  foot  of 
the  shepherd  or  chamois  would  scarcely  venture  to  tread.  Yet  a 
French  army,  characterized  by  the  same  spirit  of  enthusiasm  and 
intrepidity,  which  led  Napoleon  to  encounter  the  snows  of  St.  Bernard, 
climbed  the  icy  summits  of  the  Simplon,  and  marched  through  this 
gorge  into  Italy,  bridging  the  fissures  of  glaciers  and  chasms  in  the 
mountains  with  their  spears.  At  the  solitary  hamlet  of  Isella,  buried 
in  wilds  which  no  other  troops  would  apparently  have  the  hardihood 
to  enter,  they  built  a  strong  fortress,  to  guard  the  natural  fastnesses ; 
and  we  passed  two  casernes,  which  were  erected  for  the  accommo- 
dation of  the  garrison  and  army. 

But  these  alpine  solitudes  have  not  been  traversed  alone  by  the 
footsteps  of  soldiers.  Christianity  has  here  erected  the  cross,  and 
philanthropy  has  reared  monuments,  which  call  forth  a  tear  of  gratitude 
from  the  traveller,  for  such  active,  unostentatious,  and  disinterested 
benevolence.  Before  the  great  road  of  the  Simplon  was  constructed, 
monks  had  followed  up  the  defile  to  the  very  top  of  the  mountain, 


*  This  rude  track  across  the  Alps  was  blocked  up,  and  in  some  places  wholly 
obliterated,  by  the  shock  of  the  great  earthquake,  in  the  year  1735,  by  which 
Inston  was  buried  in  ruins,  and  which  reached  not  only  the  Highlands  of  Scot- 
land, as  1  have  already  stated,  but  even  our  own  remote  shores.  What  must  have 
been  the  violence  of  a  concussion,  which  could  shake  at  the  same  moment  the 
Pyrenees,  the  Alps,  the  Grampians, and  White  Hills,  at  the  distance  of  thousands 
of  miles  from  each  other?  Tremendous  masses  of  granite  were  here  rent  asunder, 
and  tumbled  into  the  beds  of  torrents. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        523 

Ciiid  built  rude  shelters  upon  the  rocks,  where  the  benighted  wanderer, 
in  these  inhospitable  regions,  might  take  refuge  from  the  storms  by 
which  he  was  pelted.  Little  oratories  and  shrines,  rising  along  the 
path,  remind  the  passenger  of  that  faith,  which  could  inspire  such 
heroic  ardour.  Be  it  superstition,  or  be  it  an  emanation  from  heaven, 
blessed  be  the  principle  that  led  to  such  acts  of  humanity. 

To  the  convents  and  hospices,  originally  commenced  by  ecclesias- 
tics, Mr.  Stockalper,  a  wealthy  pliilanthro[)ist,  whose  name  deserves 
the  celebrity  and  immortality  of  a  Howard,  added  several  buildings  of 
a  more  lofty,  substantial,  and  comfortable  kind.  One  of  them,  stand- 
ing near  the  boundaries  of  Switzerland,  is  eight  stories  high,  con- 
structed of  stone,  and  neatly  finished,  with  the  appendage  of  a  chapel. 
Others  arc  crowned  with  Gothic  towers,  rising  from  the  deepest 
recesses  of  the  Alps.  But  they  were  not  raised  from  motives  of 
ostentatious  charity ;  for  they  were  planted  in  these  secluded  retreats, 
where  they  are  scarcely  distinguishable  from  the  gray  crags  that 
surround  them,  long  before  Napoleon  opened  the  passage  of  the 
Simplon,  and  where  no  eye  could  mark  tliem,  save  that  of  the  way- 
faring man,  who  ventured  to  scale  ramparts  of  eternal  frost. 

A  third  class  of  refuges  rose  simultaneously  with  the  completion  of 
the  road,  built  and  maintained  by  the  government.  They  are  scattered 
at  short  intervals,  throughout  the  whole  extent  of  the  route,  and 
exhibit  tlie  number  of  each  upon  the  front.  We  paused  at  one  of 
them.  It  had  two  inhabitants,  an  old  man  and  his  assistant,  both 
rude  in  aspect  as  the  wilderness  in  which  they  are  buried.  They 
informed  us,  that  there  was  not  a  human  being  within  many  miles  of 
them,  and  that  they  live  here  entirely  alone.  The  large  structure  has 
two  old-fashioned  hearths,  on  one  of  which  a  cheerful  fire  was  blazing, 
with  benches  placed  before  it  for  the  accommodation  of  travellers.  A 
coarse  kind  of  bread  was  obtained,  with  which  our  Savoyard  fed 
his  horses,  standing  by  their  heads,  and  partaking  of  the  same  loaf 
himself. 

The  lone  and  gloomy  hamlets  of  Divedro,  Isella,  San  Marco,  Gondo, 
and  Simplon,  straggled  up  this  savage  pass,  anterior  to  the  modern 
improvements.  What  should  have  led  the  hardy  mountaineers  into 
wastes  of  rock  and  snow,  or  how  tliey  subsist,  it  is  impossible  to 
say  ;  for  there  is  little  soil,  and  scarcely  vegetation  enough  to  supply 
the  food  of  sheep,  goats,  and  chamois.  Three  of  the  latter  animals 
were  seen  at  a  distance,  hanging  ui)on  the  cliflis  at  a  giddy  height ; 
and  in  a  small  green  pasture,  upon  the  bank  of  a  torrent,  a  shepherd 
was  seen  stripping  the  fleeces  from  his  flock,  at  this  bleak  season.     A 


524        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

little  girl  reposing  at  his  side,  and  his  dog  sleeping  in  the  sun,  made  a 
pretjty  picture. 

in  several  places  we  passed  the  remains  of  avalanches,  which  had 
shot  from  aerial  heights,  with  the  most  appalling  ravages,  sweeping 
before  them  rocks  and  forests,  and  leaving  behind  long  tracks  of  ruin 
and  desolation.  One  of  these  30  effectually  blocked  up  the  road,  that 
it  was  necessary  to  pierce  it  with  an  arch,  many  rods  in  extent.  An 
American  friend  informed  me,  that  he  rode  through  the  gallerj,  soon 
after  it  was  opened,  in  June  last,  and  that  its  brilliancy  could  not  be 
surpassed  by  the  ice  palaces  of  the  Czars.  I  had  a  very  strong 
curiosity  to  see  an  avalanche  start  from  its  bed,  and  thunder  into  the 
vale,  I  though  not  exactly  across  our  path.  But  one  must  not  expect 
the  elements  to  wait  his  pleasure  ;  and  we  had  great  reason  to  be 
satisfied  with  witnessing  nature  in  her  rudest,  wildest,  and  most  awful 
forms,  though  not  under  the  most  terrific  aspects.  The  day  was 
comparatively  serene  and  mild,  till  our  arrival  near  the  summit  of  the 
mountain  ;  when  the  roar  of  w,inds,  howling  round  the  bleak  battle- 
ments, was  added  to  the  ceaseless  dash  of  torrents.  What  must  be 
the  grandeur  of  a  tempest  or  thunder-storm,  spending  its  fury  in  vain 
against  these  impregnable  ramparts  ? 

We  passed  three  or  four  galleries,  where  the  road  pierces  projections 
of  the  rocks,  on  the  Italian  side  of  the  Simplon.  The  longest  is  per- 
haps six  hundred  feet,  with  two  lateral  windows  looking  down  into  a 
terrific  abyss,  and  upon  a  torrent,  which  actually  startles  the  imagina- 
tion, and  causes  the  spectator  to  recoil.  Upon  the  outer  face  of  the 
precipice,  Napoleon  directed  his  name  to  be  inscribed,  with  the  date 
of  the  completion  of  the  terrace.  It  is  indeed  a  grand  work,  which 
in  a  different  location  would  be  deemed  colossal  ;  but  all  these  modi- 
fications by  the  little  arts  of  man  appear  small,  in  comparison  with 
the  majesty  of  nature,  and  the  measureless  scale  of  the  Supreme 
Architect. 

At  1 1  o'clock  we  reached  the  village  of  Simplon,  which  is  by  far 
the  most  considerable  on  the  whole  route,  between  Domo  d'Ossola 
and  the  vale  of  the  Rhone.  It  has  perhaps  forty  or  fifty  rude  buildings, 
with  a  population  of  two  or  three  hundred.  Its  site  is  said  to  be  4580 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea — the  most  elevated  in  Europe.  The 
peaks  around  are  buried  in  perpetual  glaciers  ;  and  the  inhabitants 
glean  a  scanty  subsistence  from  their  flocks  and  pastures.  We  found 
a  small,  but  comfortable  hotel,  which  exhibited  all  the  fire  apparatus 
of  mid-winter — a  stove  heated  almost  to  redness,  and  the  windows 
and  doors  guarded  against  the  icy  winds.  What  a  transition  was 
here  from  the  green  and  sunny  plains  of  Lombardy !     The  Swiss 


LETTERS  FRO>I  EUROPE.         525 

iiostess  gave  us  an  excellent  dish  of  coffee,  and  a  dejuene  served  up 
with  perfect  neatness.  The  milk  and  butter  were  of  the  best  qualities. 
Not  a  speck  of  dirt  was  to  be  seen  in  any  part  of  the  house.-,  and  the 
pannei  floor  of  the  parlour  looked  as  if  it  had  been  scoured  that  very 
morning. 

While  the  horses  were  restini:,  we  amused  ourselves  with  looking 
at  two  chamois,  a  male  and  a  femaie,  i  ncagod  in  a  small  apartment. 
The  former  retains  all  his  wikhiess,  and  cannot  be  domesticated  ; 
while  the  latter  is  mild  and  tractable,  licking  the  hand  of  its  keeper. 
It  is  a  beautiful  animal,  liglit  in  its  form,  and  made  for  Heetness  and 
activity.  Its  head  is  perk,  and  its  eye  possesses  great  animation. 
The  village  has  a  little  church,  which  we  visited.  It  is  a  humble 
Gothic  buildmg,  round  which  the  alpine  winds  were  whistling.  The 
walls  exhibit  one  painting  of  some  merit,  and  many  images  of  the 
Virgin,  together  with  numerous  votive  tablets,  dating  as  far  back  as 
1732.  All  the  houses  bear  the  marks  of  great  age,  and  of  having 
been  severely  lashed  by  the  elements. 

Another  tedious  ride  of  three  hours,  through  a  desolate  region,  ex- 
hibiting here  and  there  a  solitary  hut,  brought  us  to  the  very  top  of  the 
Simplon,  where  we  found  ourselves  in  the  midst  of  all  the  horrors  of 
winter.  For  several  miles  the  path  was  buried  in  snow,  and  largo 
icicles  were  pendent  from  the  rocks,  without  dripping  at  mid-day. 
The  highest  peaks  were  cloud-capt ;  and  all  our  coats  and  cloaks 
were  not  proof  against  the  searching  air.  Two  F^nglish  ladies,  at- 
tended only  by  a  servant,  were  met  upon  the  bleakest  summit.  Na- 
poleon directed  a  large  Hospice  to  be  commenced  upon  the  heights  ; 
but  it  has  not  yet  been  finished.  It  is  built  of  stone,  two  stories  high, 
with  fourteen  windows  in  front.  The  benevolent  and  indefatigable 
monks  of  St.  Bernard  are  now  engaged  in  completing  it. 

Our  journey  thus  far  from  Domo  d'  Ossola  had  occupied  ten  hours  ; 
and  as  the  summit  was  not  reached  till  3  o'clock  P.  M.,  we  began  to 
think  it  would  be  necessary  to  provide  a  refuge  for  the  night,  especial- 
ly as  the  skies  looked  cheerless  and  stormy  But  a  brighter  prospect 
soon  opened  before  us,  and  the  clouds  were  all  left  behind,  in  the  ra- 
pidity of  our  descent.  The  sun  emerged  from  the  mists,  which 
wreathed  the  gloomy  peaks  of  the  Simplon ;  and  the  glaciers  of 
Switzerland  beyond  the  Rhone,  a  region  of  eternal  frost,  burst  upon 
our  view  with  indescribable  splendour.  Nesthorn  is  the  loftiest  of 
this  bleak  range,  extending  in  either  direction,  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach,  and  lifting  to  heaven  a  load  of  snows,  which  were  never  printed 
by  human  footsteps.  The  solitary  grandeur  of  the  scene  wholly  sur- 
passes the  reach  of  imagination. 


^6  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

From  the  top  of  the  Simplon,  an  abyss  of  immeasurable  depth, 
visible  in  its  whole  extent,  opens  into  the  vale  of  the  Rhone.  Its 
sides  are  precipitous,  slightly  clothed  with  fir,  and  torn  into  deep 
chasms  by  torrents,  descending  from  the  heights  above,  and  forming 
the  waters  of  the  Gauter.  At  the  outlet  of  the  gorge,  the  large  vil- 
lages of  Brigue  and  iSaters,  with  their  glittering  spires  and  rural  envi- 
rons, relieve  the  eye,  presenting  a  beautitid  picture.  Seen  from  such 
an  elevation,  and  through  a  pure  atmosphere,  they  appear  within  a  few 
nodes  of  the  spectator,  though  the  descent  to  the  vale  occupies  three 
or  four  hours.  The  road  winds  round  the  head  of  the  tremendous 
gulf  of  the  Ganter,  penetrating  a  long  gallery  of  rocks,  and  pursuing 
the  very  brink  of  the  frightful  cliffs.  It  is  guarded  by  a  high  wall, 
which  renders  it  secure,  except  in  winter,  when  accumulated  masses 
of  ice  and  snow  rise  to  a  level  with  the  parapet. 

The  scenery  upon  the  northern  declivities  of  the  mountain  is  less 
lonely,  gloomy,  and  savage  than  that  of  the  Italian  side.  A  different 
geological  formation  gives  it  fewer  asperities  and  less  rudeness.  The 
traveller  does  not  feel  himself  so  completely  buried  in  alpine  solitudes. 
His  eye  looks  abroad  upon  a  more  varied  prospect,  and  at  intervals 
catches  glimpses  of  the  cultivated  vale  below.  Forests  of  fir  skirt 
the  path,  and  the  caverns  of  the  Sv.'iss  peasantry  are  often  seen  cra- 
dled, like  the  nest  of  the  eagle,  among  rocks  and  upon  steeps,  which 
appear  wholly  inaccessible.  Indeed,  the  approach  is  often  so  precipi- 
tous and  rugged,  that  it  is  necessary  to  use  ladders  in  the  ascent  from 
cliff  to  cliff.  On  the  right  are  seen  the  peaks  of  several  glaciers,  and 
the  desolate  tracks  of  avalanches,  sterile  and  dreary  as  beds  of  lava. 

The  gorge  of  the  Saltine  opens  from  the  east,  at  nearly  right  angles 
Vi'ith  the  Ganter,  and  the  chasm  is  scarcely  less  profound,  though  not 
so  wild  and  terrific  in  its  aspect.  A  large  torrent  is  seen  foaming  and 
fretting  among  the  rocks  ;  but  it  is  actually  so  far  beneath  the  feet  of 
the  spectator,  that  its  roar  does  not  reach  his  ear.  The  road  runs 
along  the  southern  margin  of  this  gulf,  to  a  point  near  its  head,  cross- 
es it  on  a  noble  bridge,  and  thence  traverses  the  northern  side  to  the 
vale  of  the  Rhone.  We  did  not  reach  Brigue  till  dark  ;  and  a  ride 
through  its  narrow,  ill-paved,  gloomy  streets  v/as  the  roughest  part  of 
the  passage.  The  Hotel  was  full  to  overflowing  with  English  travel- 
lers, and  much  difficulty  was  experienced  in  finding  lodgings  for  the 
night.  After  the  fatigues  of  the  day,  mental  as  well  as  corporeal, 
almost  any  accommodations  were  acceptable. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  r>2t 

LETTER  XCIV. 

DEPARTCKE  FROM  BRIGUE VALE  OF  THE  RHONE — SKETCH  OF  ITS  SCE- 
NERY— ALPS  AND  GL:VCIERS — FERTILITY POPULATION — BUILDINGS 

VILLAGES  AND  HAMLETS — VIEGE TOURTEMAGNE — CASCADE — SION 

MARTIGNY — ST.  MAURICE — FIRST  VIEW  OF   THE    LAKE  OF  GENEVA 

ST.  GINGOUX — ROCKS  OF  MEILLERIE  -    SOUTHERN  SHORE  OF  THE  LAKE 

EVIAN — THONON DLSTANT    VIEM'^  OF    MONT    ELANC — ARRIVAL    AT 

GENEVA. 

October,  1826. 

At  sunrise  on  the  morning  of  the  1 2th,  wc  resumed  our  journey, 
through  the  Ilaut-Valais.  Brigue  is  about  forty  miles  from  the  source 
of  the  Rhone,  which  rises  among  the  glaciers,  to  the  north  of  St. 
Gothard.  The  river  is  here  con)paratively  small,  bearing  the  charac- 
ter of  a  mountain  torrent.  Its  water  is  very  nearly  of  the  same  com- 
plexion as  at  Lyons.  The  vale  through  which  it  flows,  even  before 
reaching  the  Lake  of  Geneva,  is  one  of  the  most  extensive,  as  well  as 
the  deepest,  in  Europe.  Its  length,  running  in  nearly  a  direct  line 
from  east  to  west,  is  something  more  than  a  hundred  miles,  and  its 
breadth  from  four  to  six  or  seven.  There  is  little  variety  in  the  great 
outlines  of  its  formation  and  scenery.  The  Alps  on  the  southern 
side,  and  the  Helvetian  mountains  to  the  north,  rise  in  continuous 
chains,  to  the  height  of  seven,  eight,  and  sometimes  even  ten  thou- 
sand feet.  They  present  bold,  precipitous,  and  impassable  barriers  to 
the  vale,  except  were  torrents  have  burst  through  the  ramparts,  and 
swept  the  ruins  into  the  Rhone.  The  river  has  been  buffeted  from 
side  to  side  by  the  debris,  brought  down  by  these  deluges  from  the 
mountains,  the  beds  of  which  are  often  many  rods  in  width,  strewed 
with  simd,  rocks,  and  uprooted  forests.  One  of  the  most  hideous  is 
denominated  "  the  Devil's  Garden  ;"  but  it  looks  more  like  the  ruined 
fortresses  of  Milton's  archangels,  subverted  and  demolished  by  the  arm 
of  the  Almighty. 

The  Alps  are  less  savage  in  aspect,  than  the  glaciers  upon  the  op- 
posite bank  of  the  Rhone.  While  the  sides  of  the  former  are  often 
clothed  half  way  to  their  sununits  with  dwarfish  fir,  the  latter  exhibit 
only  sterile  masses  of  rock  and  snow,  without  a  trace  of  vegetation. 
Knormous  crags  and  needles,  in  the  shape  of  pyramids,  too  pointed  to 
aflbrd  lodgement  to  accumulated  ice,  pierce  the  crust,  and  rise  like 
gray  battlements  along  the  eternal  ramparts.  It  is  impossible  to  con- 
cT'ive  nn  image  of  more  desolate  and  gloomy  grandeur,  liian  this  cn^- 


528         LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

tellated  region,  this  throne  of  perpetual  winter,  presents  to  the  eye. 
The  verdure  of  the  Alps  is  the  more  remarkable,  since  their  giant  peaks 
throw  their  sides  and  bases,  which  here  have  a  northern  exposure,  into 
the  shade  for  a  considerable  part  of  the  day.  We  rode  in  their  deep 
and  chill  shadows,  for  the  first  three  hours  this  morning,  without 
seeing  the  sun,  except  as  it  shot  a  beam  through  the  serrated  summits; 
while  the  opposite  glaciers  were  glittering  with  the  most  dazzling 
brightness.  It  is  indeed  a  glorious  prospect,  to  look  back  on  St. 
Gothard,  towering  at  the  source  of  the  Rhone,  and  forward,  through 
the  long  vista  of  mountains,  to  the  utmost  limits  of  vision. 

The  fertility  of  the  Valais  furnishes  an  astonishing  contrast  to  the 
desolate  barriers  of  rock  and  ice,  by  which  it  is  enclosed.  Rich  allu- 
vial plains,  shaded  with  trees  of  a  large  growth  ;  fields  neatly  cultiva- 
ted, teeming  with  corn,  vineyards,  fruits,  and  flowers;  green  pastures, 
filled  with  flocks  and  herds,  frequently  meet  the  eye  of  the  traveller, 
where  he  would  look  only  for  frost  and  sterility.  We  saw  the  peasant- 
ry engaged  in  mowing  a  second  crop  of  grass,  gathering  yellow  tresses 
of  maize,  or  busy  with  the  vintage,  while  the  labours  of  the  harvest 
were  liable  to  be  interrupted  by  the  descent  of  avalanches. 

Tlie  population  of  the  Vale  appears  to  be  sparse  ;  and  most  of  the 
agricultural  labour  is  performed  by  females,  whose  husbands,  fathers, 
and  brothers  perhaps  i.re  filling  the  Austrian  or  French  regiments,  or 
crowding  to  the  shores  of  other  countries  as  emigrants.  Those  who 
are  left  behind  seem  to  be  industrious,  frugal,  and  temperate  in  their 
habits  ;  simple  and  courteous  in  their  manners.  Every  person  who 
met  us  on  tlie  road,  old  and  young,  male  and  female,  offered  some 
liind  of  a  salutation,  by  lifting  the  hat,  bowing,  or  bidding  a  kind  good- 
morrow.  In  features,  the  peasantry  bear  marks  of  severe  toil  and  a 
rigorous  climate.  Their  costumes  are  peculiarly  fantastic.  The  wo- 
men wear,  in  the  house  as  well  as  abroad,  a  small  straw  hat,  with  a 
silk  band,  cut  in  scallops.  The  number  of  beggars  indicates  more 
poverty,  than  we  expected  to  find  among  the  hardy  Swiss,  "  pelted 
and  starved  as  they  are  by  the  elements."  A  dozen  of  the  descend- 
ants of  Tell  beset  us  for  charity,  in  our  first  day's  ride  among  their 
mountains.  Most  of  the  inhabitants  in  this  Canton  are  Catholics  ; 
and  the  style  of  mendicity  varies  very  little  from  that  of  Italy. 

The  villages,  hamlets,  farm-houses,  and  cottages  of  the  Valais,  how- 
ever picturesque  and  romantic  they  may  appear  at  a  distance,  seated 
as  they  often  are  upon  the  acclivities  of  the  mountains,  are  compara- 
tively rude  in  structure,  and  will  not  bear  a  very  close  examination, 
except  in  point  of  cleanliness,  which  is  carried  throughout  every  de- 
partment of  life.     Even  the  smallest  taverns  are  perfectly  neat  ;  and 


LETTERS  F1103I  EUROPE.  uHi) 

ill  several  instances,  females  were  seen  sweeping  out  the  stalls  of  their 
cows.  Many  of  the  buildings  are  of  red  cedar,  the  complexion  of  which 
gives  them  the  appearance  of  having  been  painted.  The  barns  arc 
elevated  upon  piles,  five  or  six  feet  from  the  ground,  to  prevent  the  ap- 
proach of  rats  and  mice.  A  ladder  leads  to  the  door,  and  the  base- 
ment is  used  to  shelter  cattle  from  the  weather.  The  cabins  are  often 
constructed  of  hewn  logs ;  small,  dark,  and  gloomy,  with  circular 
panes  of  glass  for  the  windows.  Huts  upon  the  mountains  are  fre- 
quently inhabited  only  during  the  summer,  by  shepherds  and  herdsmen, 
who  retreat  to  the  vale  before  the  storms,  torrents,  and  avalanches  of 
winter  and  spring. 

Such  are  some  of  the  physical  and  moral  features  of  the  Vale  of  the 
Rhone,  which  I  have  attempted  to  generalize,  to  save  repetition,  where 
so  great  a  uniformity  of  scenery  prevails.  Our  journey  of  two  or 
three  days  furnished  few  incidents,  to  swell  the  contents  of  this  sketch. 
At  Viege,  seven  or  eight  miles  from  Brigue,  we  paused  a  moment, 
and  had  a  fine  view  of  our  old  acquaintance,  Monte  Rosa.  A  deep 
ravine  here  opens  in  nearly  a  direct  line  to  its  base. 

While  dinner  was  preparing  at  Tourtemagne,  a  visit  was  paid  to  a 
cascade,  back  of  the  village.  It  spouts  from  the  rocks  of  the  Alps, 
and  is  twisted  into  a  silver  thread  in  its  descent.  The  stream  is  small  • 
or  at  least  it  appears  so,  in  comparison  with  other  natural  objects  around 
it.  Seats  have  been  erected  in  front,  for  ths  accommodation  of  visit- 
ants. I  called  at  the  village  church,  which  has  a  Protestant  steeple, 
but  a  Catholic  interior — Italian  images  and  finery,  without  Italian  ricli- 
ness  and  taste.  Tresses  of  golden  corn,  suspended  from  the  windows 
of  the  houses  in  the  vicinity,  afforded  me  much  more  pleasure,  tlian  gilt 
Madonnas  and  mitred  Saints. 

Our  Savoyard  served  in  the  campaigns  of  Napoleon,  and  was  depu- 
ted to  Elba  as  one  of  his  guards.  He  was  therefore  entrusted  with 
the  department  of  looking  out  for  all  military  associations  ;  while  we 
watched  the  mountains,  the  shifting  aspect  of  the  glaciers,  and  the 
green  torrent  of  the  Rhone.  In  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  he  point- 
ed out  a  narrow  pass  in  the  Valais,  where  its  inhabitants  made  a  gal- 
lant defence  of  their  liberties,  against  the  invasion  of  the  French,  in 
1798.  The  cannon  were  planted  among  the  rocks,  and  on  natural 
mounds,  swept  into  the  vale  by  alpine  floods.  A  fete  champetre  was 
here  celebrated  some  years  ago,  in  a  grove  of  pines,  shading  the  field 
of  battle  ;  and  the  company  left  their  names  inscribed  upon  the  trees. 
\t  Sierre,  we  crossed  the  Rhone  on  a  wooden  bridge,  which  has  been 
ivvept  away  perhaps  fifty  times,  by  the  impetuous  current.     Between 

\'oT,.  IT.  f'T 


530        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

this  village  and  Sion,  many  vineyards  were  observed,  in  which  the 
French  mode  of  cultivation  is  adopted. 

The  banks  of  the  Rhone  here  exhibit  numerous  mounds,  eighty  or 
a  hundred  feet  in  height,  which  appear  to  have  slidden  into  the  vale, 
and  in  some  instances  to  have  changed  the  course  of  the  river.  On 
the  top  of  one  of  thein  are  seated  the  ruins  of  a  fortress,  which  over- 
looks the  town  of  Sion,  and  was  constructed  for  its  protection.  The 
hillock  is  overgrown  with  bushes,  and  forms  a  picturesque  object. 
We  passed  it  at  twilight.  The  sun  set  gloriously  this  evening  upon 
the  mountains,  and  tiie  moon  shone  as  brightly  as  on  the  rural  shores 
of  Como.  Nothing  can  be  purer  or  more  brilliant  than  the  skies  in 
this  region.     The  stars  sparkled  like  diamonds. 

We  took  lodgings  for  the  night  at  Sion,  which  is  the  capital  of  the 
Haut-Valais,  the  old  Sedunum  of  the  Romans.  Its  ancient  inhabitants 
opposed  the  march  of  Hannibal,  upon  the  summit  of  the  Alps  ;  and  their 
scarcely  less  warlike  descendants  kept  the  Bas-Valais  tributary,  for  three 
hundred  years.  It  is  a  large  town,  the  seat  of  a  Bishop,  with  half  a 
dozen  churches,  and  several  convents.  The  houses  are  three  and  four 
stories  high,  with  handsome  fronts.  We  found  the  streets  muddy  and 
silent.  A  walk  was  attempted  ;  but  the  pavements  and  corsos  of  Italy 
were  wanting.  The  hotel  was  thronged  with  another  swarm  of  Eng- 
lish travellers,  bound  across  the  Simplon. 

At  4  o'clock  the  next  morning,  we  resumed  our  journey  down  the 
Bas-Valais.  The  sun  came  up  behind  the  Alps,  and  again  poured  a 
flood  of  glory  over  the  glaciers.  It  was  a  scene,  which  would  bear  a 
thousand  repetitions  in  the  reality,  though  but  one  in  description.  At 
Martigny,  the  Rhone  makes  a  bold  sweep  towards  the  north,  prepara- 
tory to  its  entrance  into  the  lake.  A  fine  view  is  here  obtained  of 
St.  Bernard,  over  which  Napoleon  and  his  army  marched  into  Italy. 
From  its  sides  a  torrent  descended  in  1818,  and  deluged  the  village, 
sweeping  away  houses  and  their  tenants,  in  its  furious  march  to  the 
Rhone.  The  height  to  v/hich  the  water  rose  is  marked  on  the  front 
of  the  hotel,  at  an  elevation  of  ten  or  twelve  feet  from  the  ground  : 
and  the  devastations  of  the  flood  are  still  visible.  In  attempting  to 
rescue  his  horse,  the  landlord  of  the  Swan  was  overtaken  by  the  tor- 
rent, and  narrowly  escaped  with  his  life.  A  little  girl,  who  wished  to 
earn  a  sous  to  buy  her  a  breakfast,  persuaded  us  to  follow  her  beyond 
the  Dranse,  to  look  at  an  old  tower  and  fortress,  overgrown  with  a 
coronal  of  shrubs.  We  asked  some  questions  which  she  could  not 
answer,  but  said,  "  her  father  knew." — Her  innocent  simphcity  remind- 
ed me  of  a  domestic  lambkin  at  the  village  inn,  that  came  up,  kissed  mv 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  ->31 

jiand  affectionately,  and  nestled  under  my  cloak,  to  avoid  the  chilly  air 
of  the  morning-. 

A  path  which  may  be  traversed  with  mules,  leads  hence  over  the 
Col  de  Balme,  to  Mont  Blanc,  a  distance  of  only  thirty  miles.  We 
had  serious  thoughts  of  deserting  our  Savoyard,  and  of  availing  our- 
selves of  the  only  opportunity  to  visit  the  highest  of  the  Alpine  chain. 
But  to  plunge  again  into  the  snows  and  solitudes  of  the  mountains, 
late  in  the  autumn,  instead  of  mid-summer,  with  the  chance  of  being 
assailed  by  storms,  or  impeded  by  torrents,  seemed  quite  too  much 
like  carrying  coals  to  Newmarket.  Had  it  been  possible  tojbreseo 
the  succession  of  delightful  days  which  followed,  the  regret  of  missing 
Chamouni  and  the  scenery  in  its  vicinity  would  have  been  avoided. 
But  it  is  impossible  to  see  every  thing  at  the  same  moment,  and  an- 
other season  was  needed  for  traversing  Switzerland  and  the  banks  of 
the  Rhine. 

Soon  after  leaving  Martigny,  we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  celebrated 
cascade  of  Pissevache,  which  is  within  a  few  rods  of  the  road.  In  an 
approach  from  the  south,  the  stream  is  not  seen  above  the  fall,  and  the 
water  appears  to  gush  out  of  the  solid  and  perpendicular  clill",  as  if  it 
had  been  smitten  by  the  rod  of  Moses.  The  descent,  including  the 
rapids,  is  said  to  be  270  feet  ;  but  the  perpendicular  pitch  cannot  much 
exceed  one  hundred.  It  is  worthy  of  its  name,  in  comparison  with 
the  cataracts  of  our  own  country.  The  sheet  of  water  is  spread  into 
a  sort  of  silver  net-work,  resembling  a  lace  veil,  which  forms  a 
pretty  piece  of  drapery,  as  it  hangs  from  the  sombre  brow  of  the 
mountain.  Tiny  rainbows  were  observed  upon  the  cloud  of  spray, 
which  rolls  from  the  foot.  The  finest  view  is  obtained  from  the  nortli, 
where  the  Salanche  is  seen  tossing  and  foaming  among  the  dark  crags 
above,  before  it  leaps  the  precipice. 

We  reached  St.  Maurice  at  noon.  From  an  eminence  beyond  the 
town,  a  glimpse  of  the  Lake  of  Geneva  and  of  the  shores  near  its  head 
was  caught,  through  the  narrow  vista  of  mountains,  which  here  con- 
tinue to  rise  to  the  height  of  six  or  seven  thousand  feet,  presenting 
precipitous  faces  to  the  vale.  Vevay,  Clarcns,  and  other  white  vil- 
lages, were  seen  in  the  distance.  The  defile  is  but  just  wide  enough 
for  the  passage  of  the  Rhone,  and  the  site  of  St.  Maurice,  under  the 
cliffs  upon  its  left  bank,  occupying  a  most  romantic  position.  A  tre- 
mendous glacier  rises  from  the  opposite  shore,  crowned  with  naked 
masses  of  rock,  in  the  shape  of  castles  and  fantastic  towers.  The 
old  town  has  been  a  place  of  some  importance  ever  since  the  days  of 
CiLsar.  It  was  the  great  cemetery  of  the  Roman  Legions,  employed 
in  the  conquest,  of  Helvetia,  and  one  of  the  modern  churches  was  for- 


532        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

merly  paved  with  their  tombstones.  Here  the  Emperor  Maximian  i? 
said  to  have  twice  decimated,  and  then  put  to  the  sword  a  whole 
legion,  who  had  been  baptized  into  the  Christian  faith,  and  who  refu- 
sed to  renounce  their  fidelity  to  the  Cross.  Under  a  cliff,  back  of  the 
village,  sheltered  from  the  storm  and  the  avalanche,  stand  a  hermitage 
and  chapel,  overlooking  the  vale,  from  a  solitary  recess  in  the  rocks. 
The  latter  building  is  said  to  be  a  votive  offering  to  the  Virgin,  by  a 
wealthy  individual,  for  the  preservation  of  his  child,  in  falhng  uninju- 
red from  a  precipice  a  hundred  feet  in  height. 

After  dinner,  our  journey  towards  the  Lake  was  continued.  In 
going  out  of  the  town,  we  passed  a  noble  stone  bridge,  said  to  date 
from  the  age  of  the  Romans,  spanning  the  rapid  current  of  the 
Rhone,  and  leading  down  the  opposite  shore  to  Lausanne.  A  castle 
stands  at  one  end,  and  a  chapel  at  the  other.  Onward,  the  mountains 
retreat,  the  vale  widens,  and  the  scenery  assumes  a  softer  character. 
Deep  forests  of  chesnut  and  hanging  woods  clothe  the  slopes  of  the 
hills ;  the  waters  are  less  turbulent ;  and  the  fields  are  luxuriant  in 
pasturage,  corn,  and  wine.  The  day  was  mild,  serene,  and  bright : 
and  another  cloudless  sunset  shed  its  rosy  tints  upon  the  peaks,  which 
overhang  St.  Maurice.  Twilight  lingered  upon  the  snow,  long  after 
it  had  vanished  from  the  vale. 

Just  at  dusk,  we  reached  the  head  of  the  lake,  and  rode  for  several 
miles  along  its  margin,  to  St.  Gingoux,  where  good  accommodations 
were  found  for  the  night.  The  hotel  stands  upon  a  declivity,  sloping 
to  the  water,  and  commanding  a  full  view  of  the  bright  expanse,  which 
spreads  between  it  and  the  opposite  shore,  where  the  old  castle  of 
Chillon,  Clarens,  and  Vevay  are  seated  at  the  foot  of  the  hills,  which 
rise  in  the  back-ground.  Adventitious  circumstances  conspired  with 
the  intrinsic  richness  of  the  scenery,  to  render  the  first  glance  trans- 
porting. Our  eyes  had  been  accustomed  for  several  days  to  rest  on 
savage  mountains,  forming  a  striking  contrast  to  the  rural  and  luxuri- 
ant borders  of  Lake  Leman.  Its  very  brink  is  deeply  wooded  and 
green,  fringing  waters  which  were  now  slumbering  in  an  azure  sheet, 
and  in  unbroken  quiet ;  as  if  like  ourselves  they  were  happy  to  repose, 
after  having  been  tossed  and  agitated,  in  traversing  a  rugged  region. 
A  little  fleet  of  boats  was  moored  along  the  strand,  and  every  image 
was  that  of  peace  and  tranquillity.  The  moon  shone  in  unclouded 
splendour,  and  the  radiance  of  the  Lake  was  as  brilliant  as  her  own 
orb.  A  poet  might  fancy,  that  Dian  in  one  of  her  fabled  chases  here 
dropped  her  silver  crescent  among  the  mountains.  It  was  probably 
such  anight  as  this,  which  inspired  the  impassioned  dreams  of  Rousseau, 
and  the  still  loftier  imagery  of  Byron. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        533 

A  peep  from  our  chamber  windows  at  day-break  dispelled  all  the 
poetical  visions  of  the  night,  and  served  to  damp  the  ardour  of  roman- 
tic feelings : 

"  The  dawn  is  overcast — the  morning  lowers, 
And  heavily  brings  on  the  day." 

Lake  Leman  has  its  mists,  like  less  pure  and  brilliant  elements ;  as  the 
minds  of  the  novelist  and  poet  were  sometimes  overshadowed  with 
gloom,  in  the  same  manner  as  meaner  intellects.  In  plain  terms,  it 
was  a  very  dark,  foggy,  unpleasant  morning — the  first  we  had  expe- 
rienced since  leaving  Milan.  But  the  sky  soon  cleared,  and  anotlier 
bright  autumnal  day  cheered  us  onward  to  Geneva. 

As  the  sun  broke  through  the  clouds,  it  fully  disclosed  the  intrinsic 
beauty  of  tlie  Lake,  as  well  as  the  grandeur  and  picturesque  scenery  of 
its  shores.  It  is  about  fifty  miles  in  length,  from  the  entrance  to  the 
exit  of  the  Rhone,  and  eight  or  nine  in  width,  in  the  broadest  part ; 
lying  very  nearly  in  the  form  of  a  crescent.  The  complexion  of  the 
■water  is  a  deep  azure,  shghtly  tinged  with  green,  arising  as  well  from 
the  verdure  of  its  borders,  as  from  the  original  colour  of  its  tributaries. 
Numerous  boats,  spreading  their  canvass  to  the  inland  breeze,  were 
seen  skimming  its  peaceful  bosom.  From  this  point,  the  view  of  the 
opposite  side  can  hardly  be  surpassed  in  extent,  richness,  and  splen- 
dour. A  long  line  of  white  villages  and  hamlets  is  traced  by  the  eye, 
from  Chillon  to  Geneva,  studding  the  green  and  woody  slopes,  which 
rise  with  moderate  acclivities  from  the  margin.  In  the  distance,  the 
chain  of  the  Jura  Alps  sweeps  round  in  amphitheatric  grandeur,  pre- 
senting alternately  broken  rocks  and  deep  forests. 

We  rode  all  day  along  the  southern  shore  of  the  Lake,  which  aflbrds 
few  objects  of  interest,  except  what  nature  herself  furnishes.  The 
woods  are  rich  and  beautiful,  retaining  their  verdure,  and  freshness  of 
foliage  even  at  this  season.  Through  groves  of  chesnut,  walnut,  ash, 
and  elm,  gleams  of  blue  water  meet  the  eye,  on  the  right ;  while  on 
the  other  hand,  the  broken  and  snowy  peaks  of  the  Alps  rise  in  the 
distance,  above  the  intervening  curtain  of  forests.  At  a  custom- 
house, not  far  from  St.  Gingoux,  we  left  the  frontier  of  the  Bas-Valais, 
and  entered  Savoy.  Although  doganas,  officers,  and  troops  of  his 
Sardinian  Majesty  were  seen  upon  the  road,  they  gave  us  no  trouble 
in  this  part  of  his  dominions.  The  air  of  the  Swiss  mountains  is  not 
so  congenial  to  the  funguses  of  petty  despotism,  as  the  more  stagnant 
political  atmosphere  of  Italy.  If  the  people  are  no  longer  independ- 
ent, they  retain  a  portion  of  the  thoughts,  feelinirs,  manners,  and  habit? 
of  freemen. 


o34        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

The  rocks  of  Meillerie  are  haunted  by  the  spirits  of  Rousseau's 
lovers.  He  could  scarcely  have  found  a  more  romantic  seclusion.  A 
rugged  spur  of  the  Alps  here  projects  to  the  very  brink  of  the  Lake, 
and  terminates  in  a  cliff  two  hundred  feet  in  height.  It  was  hewn 
down  to  its  base  by  Napoleon,  who  seemed  to  sport  with  mountains, 
as  children  play  with  pebbles.  Double  walls  and  terraces  were  con- 
st?ucted  along  the  precipice,  to  give  security  to  the  road.  Had  not 
the  Simplon  just  exhausted  admiration,. the  extent  and  magnitude  of 
this  humbler  work  would  have  excited  astonishment. 

In  the  old  town  of  Evian,  the  vetturino  hove  to,  at  the  door  of  a 
small  hotel,  and  insisted  on  our  stopping  to  dinner,  although  it  was  not 
yet  noon.  We  demurred  to  eating  and  drinking  without  appetites, 
before  the  coffee  of  St.  Gingoux  was  yet  settled.  But  without  saying 
with  your  leave,  and  with  a  sort  of  independence  which  pleased  us,  as 
.smacking  of  Swiss  freedom,  he  deliberately  unharnessed  his  team,  and 
was  gone  an  hour,  before  he  was  again  seen  or  could  be  found.  The 
secret  at  length  leaked  out.  He  has  here  a  large  store,  a  farm-house, 
and  an  extensive  vineyard,  with  other  real  estate  to  a  considerable 
amount,  which  he  had  gone  to  examine,  after  an  absence  of  several 
weeks.  In  going  out  of  the  town,  he  paused  opposite  a  handsome 
chateau,  and  two  pretty  Savoyard  girls,  with  rosy  cheeks,  and  neatly 
dressed,  came  out  to  the  coach,  each  bearing  a  fruit-dish  heaped  with 
rich  clusters  of  grapes,  which  by  concert  had  been  purposely  plucked 
for  us,  and  were  presented  with  an  elegant  simplicity  of  manners,  that 
rendered  the  offering  doubly  acceptable.  Such  an  agreeable  strata- 
gem, contrived  by  the  coachman,  to  show  off  his  daughters  and  vine- 
yards, removed  every  trace  of  vexation  caused  by  a  tedious  delay. 

Between  Evian  and  Thonon,  the  old  capital  of  Chablais,  we  passed 
the  torrent  of  Dranse,  opening  fi-om  the  Alps  in  the  vicinity  of  Mont 
Blanc.  Its  banks  are  strewed  with  ruins  of  the  mountains  to  the  width 
of  more  than  half  a  mile,  similar  in  character  to  the  gorges  of  the 
Haut-Valais.  It  is  passed  on  a  strong  stone  bridge,  the  massive  walls 
of  which  are  made  water-tight,  to  guard  against  the  floods,  which  at 
certain  seasons  sweep  down  with  tremendous  fury.  The  old  Convent 
of  Ripaille,  on  the  borders  of  the  Lake,  and  one  or  two  picturesque 
ruins  on  the  left,  give  variety  to  the  scenery. 

After  leaving  Thonon,  the  road  deserts  the  margin  of  the  Lake,  and 
becomes  rather  monotonous,  though  it  passes  through  a  rich  agricul- 
tural district,  well  tilled  and  shaded  with  large  forest  trees.  Our  heads 
-were  turned  to  the  left  all  the  afternoon,  to  catch  a  glimpse  of  Mont 
Blanc  ;  and  just  before  evening,  our  wishes  were  gratified  as  fully,  as 
they  conkl  be  at  the  distance  of  fifty  or  sixty  miles.     An  hour  of  bright 


LETTERS^  FROM  EUROPE.         o35 

dunsliine  enabled  us  to  gaze,  till  the  eye  was  dazzled  with  the  brilliancy 
of  the  spectacle.  At  first  a  mere  speck  of  bright  snow  was  seen  near 
the  base,  beneath  a  curtain  of  vapour,  which  hung  upon  the  brow,  and 
entirely  concealed  the  form  of  the  mountain.  The  cloud  rose  gra- 
dually, as  the  sun  declined,  disclosing  one  peak  and  one  glacier  after 
another,  till  every  vestige  of  the  rack  disappeared,  and  the  four-fold 
summits,  towering  above  all  the  surrounding  region,  blazed]  like  bea- 
cons in  the  heavens.  It  seemed  as  if  the  elements  conspired,  to  ren- 
der the  grandeur  of  the  scene  as  impressive  as  possible ;  and  I  dare 
not  copy  the  extravagance  of  language,  entered  in  my  diary,  in  the 
enthusiasm  of  the  moment. 

The  depth  of  light  and  shade,  occasioned  by  the  position  of  the  dif- 
ferent peaks  in  relation  to  the  sun,  reminded  me  of  the  appearance  oi' 
the  icy  orb  of  the  moon,  as  descried  through  a  good  telescope.  While 
the  western  sides  were  tinged  with  a  rich  roseate  hue,  the  declivities 
thrown  into  a  penumbra  by  giant  shadows,  were  but  dimly  discernible. 
Almost  for  the  first  time  in  my  life,  I  attempted  to  use  the  crayon,  in 
delineating  the  forms  of  things  ;  and  a  rude  profile  of  this  mountain  is 
now  before  me,  though  the  perspective  and  proportions  are  not  proba- 
bly very  well  preserved.  No  artist  could  reach  the  delicacy  and  beauty 
of  the  colouring.  The  south-western  peak  is  the  lowest,  and  pointed 
to  a  needle  at  top.  Next  in  order  is  a  stupendous  cone,  towering  far 
above  all  the  rest,  which  are  of  comparatively  moderate  elevation, 
shooting  up  from  the  north-eastern  shoulder.  But  why  should  I  at- 
tempt, at  such  a  distance,  to  sketch  the  features  of  this  monarch  of  the 
Alps,  when  so  many  others  have  drawn  portraits,  from  stations  at  its 
base  ;  and  wiien  some  of  my  countrymen  have  climbed  to  the  topmost 
glacier  ?  I  envy  them  the  glory  of  the  achievement ;  though  circum- 
stances would  not  permit  me  to  follow  their  example. 

Mont  Blanc  almost  entirely  engrossed  our  attention,  for  the  hour  it 
remained  in  sight,  notwithstanding  the  minor  attractions  which  sur- 
rounded us.  The  environs  of  Geneva  arc  extremely  splendid.  For 
several  miles  from  its  foot,  the  Lake  contracts  to  a  less  width,  than  the 
Hudson  opposite  New- York.  It  presents  a  perfect  mirror  to  its  ver- 
dant, soft,  and  picturesque  shores.  In  the  approach  along  its  southern 
side,  the  broad  avenue  is  bordered  by  beautiful  country-seats,  green 
lawns,  spacious  gardens,  and  extensive  walks  shaded  with  elms. 

The  natural  scenery,  as  well  in  the  immediate  suburbs,  as  in  the  dis- 
tance, is  so  superlatively  rich  and  varied,  presenting  the  happiest  com- 
binations of  hills,  woods,  and  waters,  that  one  hardly  thinks  of  the  ve- 
nerable old  town,  which  shows  its  numerous  calvinistic  steeples, 
sheathed  with  metallic  plates,  ,ind,  at  the  hour  of  our  arrival,  glitterinsr 


530       LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

in  the  setting  sun.  Its  situation  is  unrivalled,  both  in  point  of  beauty 
and  convenience,  occupying  an  acclivity  which  rises  from  the  very 
margin  of  the  Lake,  to  the  height  of  several  hundred  feet,  and  looks 
abroad  upon  the  whole  region  between  the  Alps  and  Jura — a  district 
that  can  scarcely  be  surpassed  in  the  variety  and  splendour  of  its  na- 
tural features.  The  city  itself  is  not  remarkable  for  stateliness,  archi- 
tectural grandeur,  or  elegance.  Its  streets  are  paved  like  those  of  Pa- 
ris ;  and  the  buildings,  though  often  five  and  six  stories  high,  exhibit 
few  embelhshments,  and  are  far  from  being  showy. 

At  the  lofty  gate,  our  passports  were  demanded  for  the  first  time, 
since  leaving  the  banks  of  the  Ticin.  The  officer  retained  them,  and 
gave  us  a  carte  of  security  for  their  safe  return.  Neat  and  commo- 
dious apartments  were  obtained  at  the  Crown  Hotel,  for  two  francs 
a  day  ;  and  the  table  d'hote  was  in  the  true  Parisian  style.  The  land- 
lord gave  us  fish  from  the  Lake  and  chamois  from  the  mountains.  In 
flavour  and  delicacy,  the  latter  is  inferior  to  venison  ;  though  it  is  con- 
sidered a  dainty  by  gourmands,  chiefly  on  account  of  its  scarcity  and 
high  price. 

It  was  a  comfortable  thought,  to  be  thus  safely  and  snugly  lodged 
for  a  short  time,  after  an  arduous  and  active  journey  of  seven  days  from 
Milan  ;  though  circumstances  conspired  to  render  it  in  the  highest  de- 
gree favourable,  novel,  and  interesting.  We  might  have  seen  the  Alps 
under  more  sublime  and  terrific  aspects ;  but  surely  not  in  a  better 
light,  for  extended  views  and  minute  observations.  Not  a  drop  of  rain, 
nor  a  flake  of  snow,  had  descended  during  the  whole  passage  ;  and 
clouds  seldom  darkened  our  pathway.  The  evening  of  our  arrival  was 
delightfully  pleasant ;  and  the  skies  at  sunset  were  emphatically  those 
of  Claude  Lorraine. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        537 

LETTER  XCV. 

KXCUKSIOX  TOFERNEY — EGRESS  OF  THE  RHONE ENVlKu.Nd  Ol'  CENKV.A 

VILLAGE  OF  VOLTAIRE DESCRIPTION  OF  HIS   CHATEAU SHORE  Or 

THE  LAKE COPET TOMBS    OF  NECKER    AND    MADABIE    DE    STAEL 

IVYON EXCURSION    TO  VEVAY SKETCH    OF  THE    TOWN CLARENS — 

CHILLON RIDE  TO  LAUSANNE REMINISCENCES  OF  GIBBON DESCRIP- 
TION   OF  THE  TOWN. 

October,  182G. 

The  day  after  our  arrival  at  Cicneva  was  occupied  in  an  excursion  to 
Ferney,  the  well  known  residence  of  Voltaire.  As  the  weather  was 
extremely  favourable,  and  it  was  doubtful  how  long  the  serenity  of  the 
skies  would  continue,  we  deemed  it  advisable  first  to  examine  the 
environs  and  shores  of  the  Lake,  reserving  the  city  for  a  rainy  day. 
By  adopting  this  plan,  the  traveller  may  often  save  time,  and  consult 
his  own  comfort,  as  was  proved  by  us  in  numerous  instances.  A 
church,  or  palace,  or  gallery  may  be  examined  to  as  much  advantage 
in  storm  as  in  sunshine  ;  while  rural  scenery  admits  only  of  the  latter. 
Obvious  as  this  remark  may  appear,  it  often  escapes  tourists,  who  are 
sometimes  obliged  to  wait  a  week,  for  the  purpose  of  making  a  single 
cxcur^on,  after  all  other  sources  of  instruction  and  amusement  have 
been  exhausted. 

Ferney  is  only  five  or  six  miles  from  Geneva.  In  our  ride  thither, 
we  bade  good  morrow  to  our  old  friend  the  Rhone,  who  had  been 
taking  a  nap  like  ourselves.  He  resumes  his  unfinished  journey  to  the 
sea  in  great  haste,  as  if  he  had  overslept  himself,  and  lingered  too 
long,  enamoured  of  the  peaceful  and  sumptuous  couch,  which  nature 
has  spread  for  his  repose.  But  the  brightness  and  azure  hue  of  his 
waters  have  not  been  sullied  by  resting  awhile  on  a  bed  of  such  purity, 
and  they  here  gush  out  of  the  lake  with  all  the  freshness  and  activity  of 
their  original  fountains  among  the  glaciers.  Art  has  done  little,  to 
embellish  a  stream  of  such  grandeur  and  unequalled  beauty.  The 
bridge  is  contemptibly  mean  ;  the  buildings  in  tlio  vicinity  arc  unsightly  ; 
and  the  current  has  been  choked  up  with  mills.  Seizing  the  giant  from 
the  mountains,  at  a  point  where  his  wildness  can  be  tamed,  the  inge- 
nious mechanics  of  Geneva  have  bound  him  like  Sampson  in  withes, 
and  degraded  him  into  the  servile  offices  of  turning  wheels  and  working 
the  city  pumps. 

The  northern  environs  of  the  town  are  not  inferior,  in  fertility  and 
beauty,  to  the  suburbs  passed  at  our  entrance,  having  the  same  richness 

68 


538        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE 

of  landscape,  with  a  still  wider  view  of  the  lake  and  an  unbroken 
circle  of  mountains.  It  is  not  more  than  eight  or  ten  miles  from  this 
point  to  the  base  of  the  Jura.  The  frontiers  of  France  are  almost 
within  cannon  shot  of  Geneva  ;  and  the  city  is  completely  within  the 
power  of  the  Bourbons,  whenever  they  please  to  use  it.  Contiguity, 
as  well  as  the  ties  of  language,  trade,  and  daily  intercourse,  will  always 
leave  the  destinies  of  the  Genevese  at  the  control  of  the  French.  The 
frontier  village  is  Ferney  Voltaire,  which  was  built  by  the  philosopher, 
whose  name  it  has  assumed,  and  was  settled  by  mechanics,  chiefly 
watch-makers  from  Geneva.  Its  interests  appear  to  be  on  the  decline. 
All  the  houses  are  uniform,  leaving  no  room  for  envy  or  jealousy,  in 
the  little  community.  It  is  a  pretty  idea  in  theory  ;  but  when  did  not 
such  a  project  prove  a  Utopia  in  practice  ? 

Not  far  from  the  village  stands  the  Chateau  of  Voltaire,  occupying 
a  moderate  eminence,  which  commands  an  enchanting  view  of  all  the 
great  features  of  the  country — Mont  Blanc,  the  long  Hne  of  Alps,  dis- 
tant glaciers,  and  the  lake  spreading  below.  A  handsome  court-yard, 
planted  with  box  of  a  large  growth,  leads  to  the  mansion,  which  itself 
exhibits  neither  architectural  simplicity  nor  elegance.  It  is  two  stories 
liigh :  the  upper  one  has  seven  windows,  while  the  basement  contains 
hut  four,  giving  the  front  a  most  fantastic  appearance.  Two  Doric 
pillars  form  the  portals.  The  edifice  is  upon  a  small  scale  ;  too  dimi- 
nutive for  a  chateau,  too  large  for  a  cottage  ;  exhibiting  all  the  eccen- 
tricities of  its  former  tenant,  with  little  or  nothing  of  that  taste,  which 
a  man  of  such  literary  eminence  might  be  supposed  to  possess.  It  ap- 
peared to  me  the  baby-house  of  his  second  childhood. 

We  examined  the  two  apartments  in  the  basement,  which  remain 
precisely  in  the  state  he  left  them.  The  floors  are  composed  of  wooden 
pannels ;  and  instead  of  neat  hearths,  such  as  a  recluse  would  choose 
to  cheer  his  solitude,  are  substituted  gloomy  earthen  stoves,  crowned 
with  small  terra-cotta  busts  of  the  philosopher,  which  looked  as  if 
they  might  have  been  baked  in  the  same  kiln,  that  spread  its  noxious 
fumes  through  the  room.  A  profusion  of  brass  and  tawdry  gilt  orna- 
ments render  the  pottery  still  more  uncouth  in  its  appearance. 

The  paintings  and  decorations  of  the  walls  are  in  much  the  same 
character,  as  the  other  ornaments.  Over  the  door  is  a  picture,  designed 
and  composed,  though  not  painted,  by  the  philosopher  of  Ferney.  It 
is  as  little  creditable  to  his  taste,  as  it  is  to  liis  judgment  and  common 
sense.  It  represents  himself,  in  the  attitude  of  presenting  his  Heriade 
to  Apollo,  who  descends  from  Parnassus,  attended  by  the  Muses  and 
Graces,  to  receive  the  offering  of  the  self-complacent  poet,  and  bear 
it  to  a  temple  which  is  seen  in  the  back-ground.     The  heroes  and 


% 
LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        539 

}ieroincs  of  the  Epic  stand  astonished  at  the  scene,  and  at  their  own 
immortality,  as  well  they  might.  Besides  these  divinities  and  great 
personages,  the  figures  are  innumerable,  embracing  the  enemies  and 
friends  of  the  author,  drawn  up  rank  and  file,  prepared  for  a  regular 
combat,  in  which  his  reputation  is  the  stake.  His  partisans  of  course 
outnumber  their  opponents,  and  the  infernal  regions  arc  open  in  readi- 
ness to  swallow  up  the  latter.  The  picture  bespeaks  the  most  consum- 
mate vanity,  and  must  have  been  the  plaything  of  his  dotage.  Other 
paintings,  consisting  of  winged  Loves  and  nude  Venuses,  shockingly 
executed,  form  strange  ornaments  for  the  secluded  retreat  of  an  octo- 
genary  philosopher. 

In  the  adjoining  apartment  is  his  bed,  just  as  he  left  it,  previous  to 
liis  departure  from  Forney,  never  to  return.  It  is  far  from  being 
a  couch  of  state,  having  neither  canopy  nor  curtains,  with  an  elevation 
suited  to  decrepitude.  The  old  chairs  stand  about,  as  if  to  accommo- 
date the  garments  of  the  former  occupant  for  the  night.  Another 
earthen  stove  bears  a  small  bust,  and  a  little  black  urn  in  front,  which 
once  contained  the  heart  of  the  philosopher,  (since  removed  to  the 
Pantiieon  at  Paris,)  and  which  is  still  inscribed  with  the  following 
sentiment :  "  Mes  manes  sont  consoles,  puisque  mon  cceur  est  au 
milieu  dc  vous."  On  the  lower  part  of  the  vase  are  the  words,  "  Mou 
esprit  est  partout,  et  mon  cosur  est  ici."  The  location  of  the  urn,  not 
less  than  the  inscription,  would  seem  to  indicate  a  warm  hearty  which 
must  have  been  eftectually  cooked  in  a  few  hours,  if  the  fire  was  kept 
up  in  the  oven. 

The  same  apartment  contains  a  portrait  of  Voltaire,  whicli  was 
taken  at  the  age  of  forty-four.  He  was  then  a  handsome  man,  if  the 
artist  did  not  belie  his  face.  Here  al^^o  are  likenesses  of  Washington, 
Franklin,  Frederic  the  Great,  Sir  Isaac  Newton,  Milton,  and  some  of 
the  distinguished  men  of  France,  intermingled  with  queens,  actors, 
mistresses,  and  favourite  servants.  In  one  corner  is  an  odd  piece  of 
sculpture,  representing  a  pretty  woman,  w  ho  died,  or  was  supposed  to 
have  died  in  an  accouchement ;  but  who  was  in  f-xct  buried  alive.  It 
is  in  the  form  of  a  tomb,  opening  at  top,  and  disclosing  the  mother 
and  her  babe.  Wlio  but  Voltaire  would  iiave  conceived  such  an  idea, 
as  a  tribute  to  the  memory  of  a  female  friend  ? 

The  exterior  appendages  of  the  Chateau  arc  in  much  better  taste. 
In  its  rear  is  a  beautiful  garden,  looking  upon  the  Jura  Alps.  The 
grounds  are  laid  out  in  the  stylo  of  I'^nglish  parks  ;  shaded  with  groves 
of  maple,  beach,  elm,  limes,  and  other  stately  forest  trees,  overhang- 
ing walks  for  exercise  and  meditation.     In  tiic  midst  of  the  woods  \? 


540        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

a  pretty  fountain,  filled  with  gold-fish,  that  came  up  in  swarms  at  tijc 
whistle  of  tlie  old  valet,  who  says  tliey  know  him,  and  will  eat  bread 
from  his  hand.  He  pointed  out  a  large  maple,  which  was  planted  by 
the  hand  of  the  philosopher.  At  its  foot  once  stood  his  bust,  which 
the  Austrians  dashed  to  pieces,  while  on  their  way  to  demolish  the 
pillars  and  bridges  of  the  Simplon.  To  this  villa  belonged  a  thousand 
acres  of  excellent  land,  finely  wooded,  well  cultivated,  and  productive. 
Such  a  tract,  bordering  upon  the  lake,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  Geneva, 
was  of  itself  a  fortune  more  splendid,  than  literary  men  generally 
realize. 

We  went  to  the  tomb,  which  Voltaire  caused  to  be  constructed  for 
himself  It  is  a  Gothic,  misshapen  pyramid,  daubed  with  stucco, 
standing  by  the  side  of  the  public  road,  naked  of  fohage,  instead  of  being 
hidden,  as  it  ought  to  have  been,  among  the  woods,  at  the  side  of  his 
fountain.  It  is  of  course  a  cenotaph,  as  he  died  at  Paris  ;  but  there- 
has  been  no  loss  of  brick  and  mortar,  as  the  rude  structure  is  much 
fitter  for  a  hen-coop,  than  for  the  sepulchre  of  a  man  of  taste. 

Last  of  all,  we  were  invited  into  the  humble  residence  of  the  aged 
valet,  who  was  for  many  years  in  the  service  of  Voltaire,  and  has  a 
little  cabinet  of  curiosities,  given  him  at  sundry  times  by  his  old  master, 
and  preserved  with  religious  care.  Among  the  rest  are  the  morning 
cap  and  walnut  cane  of  the  philosopher.  Also  the  seals  of  all  his 
correspondents,  pasted  in  rows  on  the  leaves  of  an  album,  with  the 
characters  of  some  of  them  briefly  expressed  beneath — such  as,  "  a 
dunce  in  Lyons,"  "  a  fool  at  Paris,"  "•  a  German  coxcomb."  He 
was  in  correspondence  with  nearly  all  the  great  men  of  the  age. 

The  gallery  of  the  servant  clearly  surpasses  that  of  his  master.  We 
recognised  the  portrait  of  Madame  Duchesnois  ;  though  it  is  quite  too 
pretty  for  her  coarse,  ugly,  yet  expressive  face.  The  most  amusing 
article  in  this  collection  is  a  print,  representing  a  comic  scene,  in 
which  Voltaire  appears  in  the  attitude  of  introducing  a  guest,  at  one  of 
his  dinner  parties,  and  saying  to  the  company,  "  Gentlemen,  this  is 
Mr.  Adam — though  not  the  first  man  in  the  world."  Even  the 
waiters  seem  to  relish  the  joke,  and  are  smothering  their  laughter, 
like  Diggory  and  his  associates,  at  the  stories  of  Mr.  Hardcastle. 

The  Library  of  Voltaire  all  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Empress  of 
Russia,  whose  portrait  still  hangs  near  his  bed.  I  have  been  more 
particular  in  a  sketch  of  his  chateau,  than  its  intrinsic  importance 
would  justify ;  because  he  was  in  all  respects  a  remarkable  man,  and 
one  of  those  characters,  about  whom  the  world  likes  to  quarrel.  Had 
an  opinion  merely  been  given,  that  his  residence  exhibited  no  taste,  or 
was  worthy  of  Jiis  literary  eminence,  mv  readers  might  have  ranker! 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        541 

lae  among  his  partisans  or  the  persecutors  of  his  memory.     They 
now  have  facts,  and  can  draw  their  own  conclusions. 

On  the  following  morning,  we  set  out  on  another  excursion  up  the 
northern  shore  of  the  lake,  making  a  pilgrimage  to  the  tombs  of 
Nccker  and  his  daughter,  Madame  de  Stac  I,  at  the  village  of  Copet.. 
On  our  way  thither,  we  passed  a  large  palace,  which  once  belonged 
to  Josephine,  Empress  of  Napoleon  ;  and  tlie  modest  mansion  of 
Desaussurc,  who  ascended  to  the  summit  of  iMont  Blanc  in  August, 
1787.*  His  scientific  and  pinlosophical  eminence,  and  his  illustra- 
tions of  the  natural  history  of  tiic  Alps,  are  well  known  to  the  world. 
His  family  still  reside  in  the  house.  We  also  examined  the  chateau 
belonging  to  one  of  our  countrymen  and  fellow-citizens.  It  is  prettily 
situated,  upon  the  borders  of  the  lake,  and  allbrds  a  wide  view  of  its 
enchanting  scenery.  The  grounds  are  rich  and  extensive,  with 
orchards  in  front  of  the  mansion,  which  was  closed  at  the  time  of  our 
visit.  Its  proprietor,  whom  we  met  at  Paris,  was  so  kind  as  to  give  us 
letters  to  Switzerland. 

On  arriving  at  Copet,  we  hastened  with  eager  steps  up  the  broad 
avenue,  bordered  with  lime-trees,  and  leading  from  the  village  to  the 
palace,  in  which  Necker  and  Madame  de  Staiil  once  resided.  It  was 
ascertained  on  inquiry,  that  their  tombs  were  in  a  garden,  in  front  of 
the  house.  Admittance  was  sought  in  vain.  It  could  not  be  obtained 
for  love  or  money.  With  Corinne  in  our  hands,  we  begged  permis- 
sion to  look  but  for  a  moment  at  the  tomb  of  its  authoress.  Two 
special  messages  were  sent  to  the  house ;  but  the  Cerberus,  who  holds 
the  keys  of  the  garden,  was  inexorable.  Word  came  back,  that  not 
oven  the  most  intimate  friends  of  the  family  are  allowed  to  look  at  the 
sepulchre. 

This  was  the  first  repulse  of  the  kind,  that  had  been  met  in  the 
course  of  our  travels.  Tlie  splendid  saloons  of  the  English  nobility,  in 
which  even  the  tables  for  breakfast  were  spread — the  crowns,  sceptres, 
and  robes  of  empire — the  tombs  and  sarcophagi  of  the  great,  had  in 
all  other  instances  been  thrown  open  for  our  inspection  ;  while  here  it 
was  not  permitted  us  to  trample  the  alleys  of  a  baronial  garden.  The 
servant  had  the  impudence  to  say,  tiiat  the  palace  and  its  other  appur- 
tenances might  be  examined  ;  as  if  any  favour  would  be  accepted  at 
the  hands  of  a  Goth,  who  was  deaf  to  the  onlinary  claims  of  hospitality, 
and  had  refused  a  reasonable  request  from  strangers.     Madame  do 


*  Dr.  Paccard  and  Jacque  Balmat  had  for  the  first  time  siiccepded  in  reachirrg 
the  top,  in  the  summer  of  the  preceding  year. 


-342  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

Stael's  tomb  is  a  sort  of  public  property,  which  no  Uberal  man  would 
secrete  from  the  world. 

Repulsed  in  this  object,  we  continued  our  excursion  to  Nyon,  a 
pretty  village  on  the  shore  of  the  lake,  a  few  miles  above.  It  has  a 
large  old  castle,  in  the  Frencih  style,  occupying  an  eminence,  and  rear- 
ing aloft  four  Gothic  towers  upon  its  corners.  At  10  o'clock,  one  of 
the  half  dozen  steam-boats,  plying  upon  the  lake,  picked  us  up  and 
took  us  to  Vevay.  Mr.  Church  has  wrought  the  same  wonders  here, 
as  upon  the  waters  of  France  and  Italy  ;  and  the  improvements,  which 
he  has  introduced,  have  greatly  facilitated  the  commercial  and  social 
intercourse  between  the  different  cantons  and  towns,  bordering  upon 
the  lake.  His  boats  though  not  large,  are  fleet  and  fitted  up  with  much 
neatness  and  comfort. 

The  deck  and  cabins  were  filled  with  passengers  of  both  sexes,  who 
would  be  taken  for  French,  from  their  language,  dress,  manners,  and 
customs.  In  the  habits  of  the  ladies,  one  striking  peculiarity  was  ob- 
served, which  formed  a  strong  contrast  to  the  indolence  of  the  country, 
that  had  just  been  left.  Every  female  on  board  was  employed  in  knit- 
ting or  sewing.  Even  the  cabin-maid,  who  provided  us  an  excellent 
dinner,  sat  down  by  the  table,  and  was  engaged  with  her  needle,  in  the 
little  intervals,  when  her  menial  services  were  not  required.  This  fact 
alone  speaks  volumes  in  favour  of  the  industry  of  Switzerland.  In  the 
busy  group  was  a  beautiful  young  woman,  working  lace  ;  while  her 
husband  was  sitting  near,  admiring  alternately  the  delicacy  of  the  fab- 
ric and  the  sweetness  of  her  face.  Their  honey-moon  was  apparently 
just  at  the  full ;  and  seemed  in  a  slight  degree  to  have  maddened  his 
brain.  His  doting  fondness  attracted  the  attention  of  all  the  passen- 
gers. They  were  on  their  way  to  Clarens,  where  I  hope  they  may  be 
happier  than  Rousseau's  lovers. 

In  coasting  along  the  northern  shore  of  the  lake,  and  in  touching  at 
several  places,  we  had  a  fine  view  of  its  borders,  which  are  here  too 
thickly  settled,  to  afford  any  peculiar  charms  of  natural  scenery.  It  is 
a  rich  country,  every  foot  of  which  is  cultivated,  and  rendered  highly 
productive.  From  Nyon,  the  towns  of  Rolle,  Morges,  Lausanne,  and 
Ouchy,  rise  successively  along  the  slopes,  and  upon  the  green  emi- 
nences. The  last  mentioned  is  the  port  to  the  capital  of  the  Pays  de 
Vaud,  and  drives  an  active  trade  with  Geneva,  From  this  point 
onward,  the  coast  becomes  more  rugged,  precipitous,  and  solitary. 

Late  in  the  afternoon,  we  made  the  harbour  of  Vevay,  which  is 
small,  but  neat  and  much  frequented.  The  town  stands  low,  and  does 
not  appear  well  from  the  water.  Its  size,  business,  bustle,  and  the 
aspect  of  its  streets  m.uch  exceeded  my  expectations.     It  has  an  active 


LE'n  EllS  FROM  EUROPE.  543 

population  ol"  4000 ;  and  next  to  Geneva  and  Lausanne,  is  the  most 
important  town  on  the  lake.  Merchandise  is  tastefully  displayed  at 
the  shop-windows,  and  a  semblance  of  fashion  prevails  where  only 
rusticity  was  anticipated.  It  has  a  spacious  public  square,  and  a  mar- 
ket supported  by  Doric  colusnns,  finished  in  good  taste.  The  build- 
ings are  generally  new  in  appearance,  and  exhibit  many  specimens  of 
handsome  architecture.  A  remarkable  degree  of  neatness  was  ob- 
served in  the  dresses  of  the  inhabitants,  and  no  scjualid  images  of 
poverty  here  oflend  the  eye  of  the  traveller. 

Town  and  country  are  in  some  measure  blended  at  Vevay.  Against 
the  fronts  of  many  of  the  houses,  yellow  tresses  of  maize  were  strung 
upon  poles,  to  dry  in  the  sun  ;  and  wine-casks  and  vats  stood  at  every 
door.  The  peasantry  were  in  the  midst  of  an  abundant  vintage,  and 
appeared  as  happy  as  the  priests  of  the  jovial  god.  We  were  charmed 
with  the  smiling  groups,  who  were  every  where  to  be  seen,  and  whose 
hearts  appeared  to  overflow  with  gladness.  The  borders  of  the  lake 
have  an  excellent  population — temperate,  healthy,  hardy,  enterprising, 
industrious,  frugal,  and  of  course  happy.  In  activity  and  regularity  of 
habits,  I  have  seen  no  people  in  Europe,  that  can  be  compared  with  the 
Swiss ;  not  even  the  inhabitants  of  Scotland,  who  approximate  more 
nearly  than  those  of  any  other  country. 

We  found  excellent  accommodations  for  the  night  at  Vevay,  and 
early  on  the  following  morning,  set  out  for  Clarens  and  Chillon,  at  the 
head  of  the  lake,  in  pursuit  of  the  phantoms  of  Rousseau's  and  Byron's 
imaginations,  rather  thar  of  realities  ;  for  the  peculiar  features  of  the 
scenery,  in  this  region,  had  already  been  examined,  under  the  most 
favourable  light,  in  our  ride  through  the  Valais.  But  it  seemed  a 
dereliction  from  taste,  to  leave  the  scene  of  Heloise,  Childe  Harold, 
and  the  Prisoners  of  Chillon,  without  a  visit.  It  was  in  sooth  j,  de- 
lightful excursion  ;  for  the  day  was  as  mild  as  summer,  ai/d  the 
mountains,  woods,  and  waters  as  bright  as  elysium.  This  shore, 
sheltered  from  the  northern  winds  by  a  high  ridge  of  hills,  and  enjoying 
a  southern  exposure,  is  said  to  possess  a  delicious  climate  for  the 
greater  part  of  the  year.  I  could  not  perceive  but  the  air  was  here  as 
soft  and  balmy,  as  in  the  vales  of  Italy  itself  Roses  and  other  flowers 
were  seen  in  bloom,  while  the  peaks  above  were  shrouded  in  snow. 

The  road  from  Vevay  to  Clarens  leads  through  a  succession  of  vine- 
yards, cultivated  in  the  French  mode,  and  exhibiting  an  infinite  num- 
ber of  poles,  forty  or  fift:y  feet  in  height,  erected  to  break  the  violence 
of  hail-storms  and  to  shield  the  vines.  It  is  a  most  unpoc'ical  species 
of  imagery.  The  shore  of  the  lake  towards  its  head  is  inojuted  with 
rugged  promontories  and  deep  bays.     Upon  one  of  the  latter,  stand* 


544        LETTERS  PROM  EUROPE. 

the  hamlet  of  Clarens,  consisting  of  some  thirty  or  forty  houses,  hidden 
tinder  the  rocks,  and  looking  out  upon  one  of  the  most  romantic 
regions  imaginable.  Behind  it  rise  steeps  hung  with  woods,  inter- 
mingled with  ranges  of  naked  crags.  We  chmbed  an  eminence  to 
look  at  an  old  chateau,  erected  in  the  15th  century,  and  to  search  for 
the  locahties,  consecrated  by  the  genius  of  Rousseau.  The  former 
was  not  wortli  examination,  except  as  a  conspicuous  object  in  the 
landscape;  and  not  a  vestige  of  the  latter  is  to  be  found.  A  peasant 
at  work  in  a  garden  pointed  out  the  site  of  Julia's  Bosquet,  which  was 
demolished  by  the  monks  of  St.  Bernard,  and  the  ground  appropriated 
to  the  cultivation  of  the  vine.  As  the  produce  went  to  cheer  the 
traveller  amidst  the  snows  of  the  Alps,  the  fraternity  are  pardonable 
for  disregarding  the  minor  considerations  of  taste  and  sentiment. 

The  information  furnished  by  the  aged  Swiss  agreed  precisely  with 
a  minute  description  in  a  note  to  the  Third  Canto  of  Childe  Harold, 
which  the  old  man  could  never  have  read  ;  and  the  concurrent  testimo- 
ny of  the  two  authorities  was  therefore  as  satisfactory,  as  either  the 
natUiO  or  importance  of  the  subject  required.  On  the  brow  of  the 
hill  is  a  small  burying-ground,  where  the  forefathers  of  the  hamlet 
repose.  A  grave  was  opened,  and  the  bier  stood  at  its  side.  The 
decrepid  and  toil-worn  peasant  appeared,  as  if  he  were  ready  to  drop 
in,  and  be  at  rest.  He  told  us,  that  thirty  or  forty  of  his  neighbours 
had  emigrated  to  Vevay,  on  the  banks  of  the  Ohio,  and  that  he  had 
frequently  read  letters  from  them,  descriptive  of  the  country  and  of 
their  own  prospects.  He  shook  his  head  at  the  idea,  that  the  wine  of 
the  new  world  will  ever  equal  the  produce  of  the  Pays  de  Vaud. 

Our  excursion  was  continued  to  the  old  Castle  of  Chillon,  which 
was  built  by  the  Dukes  of  Savoy,  in  the  13th  century.  Commanding 
the  pass  of  the  mountains  from  the  Valais  to  the  Vaud,  it  has  often 
been  the  scene  of  war,  as  well  as  the  prison  for  state  criminals.  It 
rises  out  of  the  water,  under  a  high  and  romantic  cHff,  thickly  mantled 
with  ivy.  It  formerly  stood  upon  an  island  ;  but  the  moat  has  been 
choked  up,  though  a  draw-bridge  and  an  iron  gate  still  lead  to  its 
portals.  The  enormous  structure  is  a  mixture  of  stone,  stucco,  and 
wooden  galleries,  crowned  with  half  a  dozen  rude  Gothic  towers.  A 
female,  who  resides  in  one  corner  of  the  fortress,  led  us  into  the 
gloomy  dungeons,  which  are  nearly  on  a  level  with  the  water  of  the 
lake,  and  which  are  guarded  from  its  irruptions  by  a  massive  wall. 
Narrow  grated  windows  admit  a  dim  light.  The  roof  is  supported  by 
columns,  springing  out  of  the  native  rock.  An  iron  ring  is  attached 
to  each  of  the  pillars,  to  which  the  prisoners  were  chained.  The 
names  of  many  visitants  are  inscribed  upon  the  rocks ;  and  among 


LETTERS  FR031  ELROPI!.  i4r, 

the  rest,  is  that  of  Lord  Byron.  To  indulge  the  propensities  of  scrib- 
blers, a  sort  of  black-board  has  been  placed  against  one  of  the  columns, 
as  a  tablet,  with  a  printed  historical  sketch  of  the  castle  pasted  upon 
its  top. 

We  climbed  to  the  battlements,  and  had  a  wide  view  of  the  lake, 
the  mouth  of  the  Rhone,  and  the  mountains  rising  on  either  hand. 
An  islet,  but  just  large  enough  to  contain  a  fisherman's  hut  and  a  tuft 
of  trees,  emerges  from  the  waves,  between  Chillon  and  the  opposite 
shore.  The  wooden  galleries  of  the  Castle  are  shattered  and  seem 
ready  to  drop  by  their  own  weight.  A  small  garrison  is  still  kept  up 
in  the  fortress,  and  the  gate  bears  the  arms  of  the  Canton  of  Vaud — 
"Liberte  et  Patrie." 

Having  thus  made  the  circuit  of  the  lake,  we  returned  to  Vevay, 
and  rode  thence  to  Lausanne,  a  distance  of  ten  or  twelve  miles  by 
land.  The  route  is  extremely  hilly,  leading  through  a  series  of  small 
villages,  comprising  what  is  denominated  the  Vinoble  of  the  Vaud, 
or  artificial  vineyards,  hanging  in  terraces  from  the  rocks,  which  rise 
from  the  water's  edge  to  the  heights  above.  Originally  the  whole 
district  was  little  else  than  declivities,  composed  of  naked  crags,  which 
Swiss  industry  has  converted  into  a  continuous  garden.  The  soil 
has  actually  been  created,  not  upon  the  locality  itself;  for  it  was 
brought  from  another  kingdom — from  Savoy,  in  boats  across  the 
lake — and  deposited  in  the  cradles,  which  had  been  hewn  from  the 
cliffs.  Such  was  the  expense  of  the  work,  and  so  productive  has  it 
been  rendered,  that  the  vineyards  will  now  sell  for  three  thousand 
dollars  the  acre  !  Immense  quantities  of  wine  are  here  made.  Wo 
ate  of  the  grapes,  which  are  delicious,  possessing  a  much  higher 
flavour  than  those  which  ripen  in  the  shady  bowers  of  Italy.  The 
peasantry  were  in  the  very  midst  of  the  vintage,  and  seemed  happy 
in  permitting  strangers  to  share  in  the  fruits  of  their  industry.  They 
brought  rich  clusters  to  ns,  and  presented  them  with  a  charming 
simplicity  of  manners  and  kindness  of  heart.  They  seem  to  make  a 
frolic  of  labour  and  of  life,  severe  as  their  toils  are.  The  females 
bear  many  burdens.  I  have  seen  them  staggering  under  panniers 
and  large  wooden  buckets,  which  would  hold  a  bushel  or  more, 
strapped  to  their  backs.  Such  hardships  have  left  little  delicacy  of 
form,  feature,  or  complexion.  Their  straw  hats  are  the  most  oddly 
shaped  things  imaginable.  ]\Iy  success  in  sketching  the  profile  of 
Mom  Blanc  induced  me  to  try  my  hand  at  a  cone  of  less  magnitude, 
but  quite  as  irregular  in  its  outlines  ;  pointed  at  top  with  a  sort  of 
neck  and  bulb,  serving  for  a  comfortable  handle. 

Climbing  the  long  precipitous  hill,  which  leads  from  Ouchy  (o 

VOT,.  IT.  G9 


540        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

Ijausanne,  we  entcrctl  the  capital  of  the  Canton  de  Vaud,  at  2  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon,  and  took  lodgings  at  the  Lion  Hotel.  One  of  our 
countrymen  from  Maryland,  with  his  accomplished  and  amiable  family, 
happened  here  on  a  similar  errand  with  ourselves.  They  had  lodged 
in  the  same  house  with  us  at  Vevay,  on  the  night  previous,  without 
our  knowledge. 

A  valet  de  place  was  immediately  engaged,  to  conduct  us  to  such 
objects  in  the  town,  as  most  deserve  the  notice  of  the  tourist.  Our 
first  visit  was  of  course  to  the  house,  where  Gibbon  composed  his 
immortal  work,  the  Decline  and  Fall  of  tlie  Roman  Empire.  His 
name  is  indissolubly  connected  with  the  hills  of  Lausanne,  and  has 
imparted  to  them  no  slight  degree  of  celebrity.  Such  is  the  charm, 
which  genius,  however  depressed  and  obscure,  can  diffuse  over  inani- 
mate nature.  His  retreat  relies  solely  for  its  interest,  on  the  influence 
of  association,  and  on  the  splendid  view  it  affords  of  the  lake  and 
distant  mountains.  The  apartment,  or  more  properly  out-house, 
which  he  occupied,  is  not  more  than  ten  feet  square,  possessing  not  a 
trace  of  him,  or  a  feature  worth  copying.  It  is  at  present  used  as  a 
dirty  workshop,  itself  an  image  of  "  decline  and  fall."  Beautiful  as  the 
garden  is,  shaded  with  spreading  elms  and  acacias,  it  is  difficult  to 
fancy  the  grave  and  pompous  historian  here  seated  at  his  labours, 
wading  through  folios  of  barbarous  Latin,  and  constructing  from  such 
rude  materials,  his  lofty,  harmonious,  and  polished  periods  ;  as  the 
statuary  hews  tlie  inimitable  forms  of  gods  and  men  from  savage  rocks 
and  the  roughest  quarries. 

We  walked  thence  to  the  Cathedral.  It  was  more  fatiguing  to 
climb  the  terraces,  leading  to  its  foundations,  than  to  ascend  to  the 
ball  of  St.  Peter's  at  Rome.  The  site  of  Lausanne  is  a  miniature 
image  of  the  Swiss  mountains.  Its  principal  and  most  frequented 
streets  are  so  precipitous,  that  it  is  almost  impracticable  to  pass  them 
with  carriages.  Even  the  carmen  are  compelled  invariably  to  lock 
their  wheels,  in  sliding  down  the  declivities.  For  this  purpose  they 
use  a  large  flat  stone,  fastened  by  an  iron  chain.  It  is  the  most 
uncomfortable  town  of  its  size,  I  have  ever  seen,  with  the  exception 
perhaps  of  some  parts  of  Newcastle-upon-Tyne.  To  infirm  and 
asthmatic  persons  particularly,  it  must  be  a  severe  effort  to  go  to 
church,  requiring  all  the  zeal  and  strong  sense  of  religious  duty,  by 
which  the  rigid  protestants  of  the  Vaud  are  actuated. 

The  Cathedral  is  a  Gothic  structure,  rearing  its  towers  and  steeples 
to  such  an  aerial  height,  as  to  form  a  conspicuous  object  from  all 
parts  of  the  lake  and  its  shores.  Its  interior  is  handsome,  but  without 
any  of  the  splendour  of  Catholic  churches.     It  contains  many  sepul- 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  ^47 

chral  monuments,  in  the  style  of  tlie  old  English  tombs.  Great  men 
and  women  here  lie  in  state.  Among  the  number,  are  the  founders  ol" 
the  church  and  of  the  hospital  of  St.  Bernard,  with  other  public  bene- 
factors. The  most  splendid  monument  in  the  church  is  in  memory  of 
Mrs.  Canning,  the  wife  of  the  Hon.  Stratford  Canning,  Minister  to 
the  Helvetic  Republic,  to  the  United  States,  and  now  to  the  Ottoman 
Poite.  She  died  within  a  year  after  her  marriage.  Her  tomb  is  of 
white  Italian  marble,  sculptured  and  embellished  by  the  chisel  of 
Canova.  By  its  side  are  many  others,  beautiful  in  design  and  execu- 
tion. The  choir  of  the  church  was  once  stricken  and  consumed  by 
lightning. 

Towards  evening  we  had  a  charming,  though  solitary  walk,  upon 
the  public  promenade,  crowning  one  of  tlie  eminences,  planted  witli 
forest  trees,  and  furnished  witli  seats  for  repose,  where  the  visitant 
may  sit  and  look  off  upon  some  of  the  most  splendid  scenery  in  the 
Morld.  But  with  all  its  charms,  this  hill  seems  to  be  but  little  fre- 
quented. The  inhabitants  of  Lausanne  are  too  active  and  industrious, 
to  loimge  upon  parades.  They  arc  as  brisk,  busy,  and  bustling  as 
tiie  air  of  their  own  mountains  ;  and  industry  never  permils  the  blood 
or  intellect  to  stagnate.  If  the  ladies  came  to  occupy  these  seats  in 
the  shade,  they  would  to  a  certainty  bring  their  knitting  and  sewing 
along  with  them ;  for  they  never  spin  what  is  vulgarly  termed  "  street- 
yarn." 

Lausanne  has  a  population  of  12,000.  It  has  been  several  times 
destroyed  by  fire,  and  has  undergone  a  full  share  of  those  civil  com- 
motions and  revolutions,  by  which  the  Swiss  mountains  have  been 
agitated.  It  was  subject  to  Bern  till  1803,  when  it  became  the  capital 
of  the  independent  Canton  of  Vaud.  Its  buildings  are  substantial, 
neat  and  comfortable  ;  its  climate  serene  and  healthy  ;  and  the  prices 
of  living  comparatively  low  ;  rendering  it  in  all  respects  an  eligible 
residence,  to  which  the  English,  who  are  keen-sighted  in  looking  out 
for  the  good  things  of  this  world,  have  resorted  in  great  numbers. 
London  papers  of  a  late  dale  were  found  at  the  reading-room,  and  the 
windows  of  booksellers  are  filled  with  English  publications.  The  town 
has  a  great  number  of  useful  institutions — hospitals,  colleges,  acade- 
mies, and  schools,  such  as  an  intelligent  and  active  people  would 
naturally  introduce  and  maintain  with  vigour.  But  none  of  them 
possess  any  striking  peculiarities,  which  in  this  stage  of  my  work  would 
justify  me  -n  entering  into  detail. 


548  LI:TTERS  from  EUROPE. 

LETTER  XCVI. 

KETUE>'  TO  GEXEVA — SKETCH  OF  THE  CITY VIEW  FKO?I    TIIK    WATEK 

ASPECT  OF  THE  STREETS  AND  BUILDINGS — HOTEL  DE  VILLE — LEGIS- 
LATIVE  HALLS POLITICAL  STATE  OF  SWITZERLAND CATHEDRAL 

REMINISCENCES  OF  CALVIN MUSEUM BOTANIC  GARDEN— DEFENCES 

OP  THE  CITY — COLLEGE LIBRARY HOSPITAL ^ATHEN^UM PANO- 
RAMA OF  SWITZERLAND BIRTH-PLACE  OF  ROUSSEAU EXCURSION  TO 

THE  JUNCTION  OF  THE  RHONE  AND  ARVE DEPARTURE  FROM  GENEVA 

— JURA  ALPS — LAST  VIEW  FROM  THEIR  SUM3IITS. 

October,  I82C. 

On  the  morning  of  the  18th,  we  left  Lausanne  and  embarked  atOuchy, 
on  board  the  steam-boat  Leman  for  Geneva.  This  vessel  is  much 
larger  and  more  elegantly  finished,  than  the  one  that  took  us  to  Vevay. 
Her  cabins  are  furnished  with  crimson  sofas  and  cushions,  the  floors 
covered  with  handsome  carpets,  and  the  tables  with  green  cloths. 
But  after  all,  the  furniture  will  bear  no  comparison  with  that  of  the 
floating  palaces,  upon  the  waters  of  the  United  States  ;  and  the 
wonders  which  tl;e  American  Consul  has  exhibited  to  the  eyes  qf 
Europeans,  originated  in  our  own  country.  The  Genevese  may 
make  better  watches,  musical  snuff-boxes,  and  singing  birds,  than  our 
own  artisans ;  but  they  cannot  build  ships,  fit  up  steam-boats,  and 
open  navigable  channels  for  them,  like  their  brother  republicans  of 
the  New  World. 

The  Leman  had  a  large  number  of  passengers,  most  of  whom  were 
genteelly  dressed,  and  polite  in  their  manners.  Another  scene  of  do- 
mestic industry,  similar  to  what  has  been  already  described,  was  exhi- 
bited by  the  ladies.  A  numerous  circle  sitting  upon  the  deck,  and  thus 
busily  employed,  resembled  what,  in  some  parts  of  our  country,  is 
denominated  a  Bee.  The  cabin  has  a  good  library,  to  which  free 
access  is  granted — an  improvement  upon  the  regulations  of  our  own 
boats,  as  furnishing  additional  inducements  to  read. 

In  the  course  of  the  passage,  I  saw  repeatedly  the  image  of  Mont 
Blam,  reflected  from  the  placid  bosom  of  the  lake.  The  mirror  was 
so  perfect,  that  the  patches  of  naked  rock  were  distinguishable  from 
the  glaciers.  Lord  Byron  has  cited  this  phenomenon,  as  very  remark- 
able. But  why  should  it  be  so  considered  ?  A  line  drawn  from  the 
surface  of  the  water,  across  the  intervening  country,  would  intersect  a 
large  frustum  of  the  cone  ;  and  surely  itjs  no  miracle,  that  an  object 
so  conspicuous  and  strongly  marked,  as  the  peak  of  a  mountain. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         549 

brought  within  a  short  apparent  distance  by  its  magnitude,  should  be 
reflected  as  perfectly,  as  the  humbler  liill  or  plant  upon  the  shore. 
But  the  author  of  Childe  Harold  was  more  of  a  poet  than  a  philoso- 
j)lier,  in  his  contemplations  of  shadowy  images.  It  would  be  a  spec- 
trum worth  witnessing,  to  sec  the  hues  of  Mont  Blanc  at  sunset, 
tinging  the  azure  waters.  I  intended  to  have  made  an  excursion,  on 
purpose  to  examine  the  phenomenon  ;  but  circumstances  would  not 
permit.     It  is  an  object  worthy  of  the  curiosity  of  some  tourist. 

Geneva  does  not  appear  well  in  approaching  it  from  the  lake.  In 
neatness  and  beauty  it  will  bear  no  comparison  with  its  namesake  in 
the  United  States,  situated  upon  a  lake  scarcely  less  romantic.  The 
backs  of  large  old  ware-houses,  together  with  heaps  of  lumber  and 
wood  piled  upon  the  wharves,  intercept  a  view  of  the  better  parts 
of  the  city,  and  form  but  a  sorry  termination  of  a  voyage,  which  in  its 
jirogress  exhibits  so  much  splendour  of  scenery.  Though  the  water 
at  the  outlet  is  shoal,  it  retains  its  purity  even  to  the  docks,  being  mo- 
tionless and  unagitated  by  tides.  For  miles  the  bottom  was  distinctly 
seen.  The  egress  of  the  Rhone  looks  still  worse  from  the  steam-boat, 
than  from  the  bridge.  Double  rows  of  piles,  emerging  from  the  sur- 
face, extend  across  the  mouth,  to  which  timbers  are  attached,  to  pre- 
vent boats  and  drift-wood  from  floating  under  the  wheels  of  the  mills. 
There  is  a  fall  of  several  feet  at  the  debouche,  and  the  river  continues 
rapid  for  many  miles  below.  Indeed,  it  may  be  said  to  bear  the  cha- 
racter of  a  torrent,  in  its  whole  course  to  the  sea. 

On  the  morning  after  our  return  to  Geneva,  we  set  about  ex- 
amining the  city  in  good  earnest,  anxious  to  see  as  much  of  it,  as  the 
two  remaining  days  to  which  our  visit  was  restricted,  would  permit. 
A  very  intelligent  and  obliging  citizen  and  his  son,  to  whom  we  had 
taken  letters,  aflforded  us  every  facility  in  obtaining  access  to  such  in- 
stitutions, as  are  most  interesting  to  strangers.  One  of  these  gentle- 
men was  with  us  nearly  the  whole  time  ;  while  the  accomi)lished  and 
literary  lady  of  the  house  contributed  her  share  of  hospitality,  by 
giving  us  a  dinner  and  a  tea-party,  with  a  dish  of  conversation,  more 
acceptable  than  the  bounties  of  her  table,  though  served  up  in  the 
neatest  Swiss  style. 

My  readers  need  not  be  told,  that  nearly  all  the  institutions  of  Ge- 
neva are  of  a  useful  and  practical  kind.  Here  arc  no  palaces,  galleries, 
and  churches — no  triumphal  arches,  corsos,  and  tJicatres,  such  as  had 
been  left  beyond  the  Alps.  The  city  is  plain  and  re])ublican  to  a  pro- 
verb. In  point  of  architecture,  there  is  not  a  building  which  rises 
above  mediocrity  ;  and  comfort  has  been  more  consulted  than  taste. 
Some  of  the  streets  are  spacious  and  neat,  but  .seldom  stately  and  elc- 


ooO  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

gant ;  while  others  are  positively  uncouth,  the  fronts  of  the  houses 
being  hurig  with  shapeless  wooden  galleries,  forming  a  species  of 
arcades,  which  contribute  as  little  to  convenience  as  to  ornament.  In 
deed,  the  object  of  these  Gothic  projections  could  hardly  be  divined. 
The  materials  of  the  buildings  are  stone,  stucco,  and  wood,  often 
thrown  together  promiscuously,  as  they  might  best  answer  the  purpose 
of  keeping  out  the  winter  air  from  the  mountains,  and  of  furnishing 
snug  apartments.  About  the  roofs,  eaves,  and  the  steeples  of  church- 
es, a  profusion  of  tin  plates  is  used,  which  in  a  bright  sun  almost  daz- 
zles the  eye,  and  produces  an  odd  contrast  to  tlie  darkened  walls. 

Our  first  visit  was  to  the  Hotel  de  Ville  or  Town  House.  The 
ascent  to  the  halls  of  legislation  is  by  a  winding  passage,  like  that 
leading  to  the  roof  of  St.  Peter's  at  Rome.  A  mule  might  walk  up 
without  diificulty,  as  some  asses  probably  have  done,  even  in  the  city 
of  Rousseau  and  Necker.  The  rationale  of  such  a  stair-way  reverts  to 
the  very  origin  of  the  term  Senate^  among  the  ancient  Romans,  the 
members  of  which  received  their  appellations  from  advanced  age. 
Determined  to  adhere  to  classical  etymologies,  as  well  as  to  political 
expediency,  the  Genevese  constructed  the  entrance  to  their  Senate 
Chamber,  in  such  a  manner,  that  old  men  might  be  borne  up  in 
sedans,  or  walk,  if  not  too  infirm,  with  the  greatest  convenience. 

The  halls  of  the  Town  House,  the  seat  of  the  legislature  for  the 
Canton,  are  plain  in  the  extreme  ;  it  might  "be  added,  even  to  mean- 
ness. Many  of  the  leathern  coverings  of  the  benches  are  patched 
and  botched  in  a  way,  that  no  pretty  Swiss  girl  would  tolerate.  If 
this  ultra-republican  simplicity  were  carried  throughout  all  the  orna- 
ments, it  would  be  less  objectionable  ;  but  the  chamber  adjoining  the 
hall  of  representatives  contains  a  gallery  of  the  portraits  of  foreign 
kings  and  queens.  I  inquired  what  these  personages  had  to  do  with 
the  republicans  of  Geneva,  in  making  laws,  but  received  no  satisfac- 
tory answer.  The  arms  of  the  Canton,  consisting  of  the  Key,  presented 
by  Charlemagne,  and  an  Eagle  wearing  a  Crown,  something  in  the 
style  of  the  papal  bird,  are  less  patriotic  than  the  "  Liberte  et  Patrie'' 
of  the  Vaud,  and  do  not  tally  exactly  with  ragged  leather  benches. 

But  the  traveller  may  look  in  vain  for  any  thing  like  political  consis- 
tency in  the  present  state  of  Switzerland.  It  retains  but  a  shadow  of 
its  former  freedom  and  glory.  The  country  is  literally  cantonized  by 
the  influence  of  the  Holy  Alhance.  France  has  the  guardianship  of 
one  portion,  and  Austria  of  the  remainder.  The  ties  of  confedera- 
tion are  merely  nominal.  Deputies  from  Canton  do,  it  is  true,  meet 
at  Zurich,  but  not  for  the  purposes  of  legislation  ;  and  they  dare  not 
move  a  finger,  except  at  the  beck  of  their  masters.     They  claim  the 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        551 

right  ol'  declaring  war  and  making  peace,  with  a  few  oilier  preroga- 
tives, which  arc  never  exercised,  and  which  are  left  them  pro  forma. 
Switzerland  has  no  federal  laws,  no  common  interests,  no  ligaments 
to  bind  the  union  together.  The  indci)endent  Cantons  have  each  a 
legislature,  to  pass  municipal  statutes  ;  but  even  these  are  subject  to 
the  dictation  and  supervision  of  foreign  powers.  Any  attempt  to 
establish  national  freedom  would  be  instantly  crushed,  as  incompati- 
l)le  with  the  principles  of  the  allied  sovereigns. 

Aside  from  this  foreign  influence,  there  are  no  affinities  in  the  moral 
and  political  elements  of  the  country.  Separated  by  lakes  and  im- 
passable glaciers,  the  Cantons  know  and  care  as  little  about  one  ano- 
tlier,  as  tliey  do  about  the  states  of  Italy  or  of  Germany.  Each  is 
engaged  in  the  narrow  circle  of  its  own  interests,  limited  perhaps  to  a 
secluded  vale,  or  a  circumscribed  district.  Nay  more,  there  is  a  posi- 
tive repulsion  and  hostility  of  feeling  between  some  of  the  Cantons, 
in  consequence  of  a  difference  in  religion.  Half  of  them  are 
Catholics,  and  the  rest  Protestants,  who  in  Europe  can  no  more 
mingle  than  oil  and  water.  To  all  appearances,  elements  thus  radi- 
cally discordant  will  preclude,  for  a  long  course  of  years  at  least,  any 
thing  like  national  views,  and  the  establishment  of  a  confederacy 
similar  to  our  own,  even  if  the  Holy  Alliance  should  tolerate  the  ex- 
istence of  free  principles. 

Our  next  call  was  at  the  Cathedral,  which  is  a  stately  and  hand- 
some pile  of  Gothic  architecture.  The  interior  is  plain,  but  neat  and 
commodious,  suited  to  the  worship  of  a  people,  whose  religion  is 
addressed  to  the  ear,  and  not  to  the  eye.  Most  of  the  inhabitants  of 
Geneva  are  Protestants.  The  number  of  Catholics  does  not  exceed 
two  or  three  thousand  ;  about  one  tenth  of  the  population  of  the  city. 
Among  the  monuments  is  a  lofty  tomb  in  memory  of  a  brother  to 
Henry  HI.  of  France.  We  inquired  for  that  of  Calvin.  The  sexton 
informed  us,  that  he  made  a  special  request  to  be  buried  in  the  public 
cemetery,  and  that  no  sepulchral  honours  should  be  paid  to  his  dust. 
A  visit  was  made  to  a  building,  at  the  corner  of  two  streets,  from  the 
window  of  which  he  first  proclaimed  the  doctrines  of  the  Reforma- 
tion ;  and  also  to  the  house,  in  which  he  died.  The  latter  has  gone 
through  several  editions  since  his  death  ;  and  the  present  tenant  seem- 
ed not  a  little  surprised  at  the  nature  of  our  errand. 

From  the  tower  of  tlie  Cathedral,  which  is  very  lofty  and  arduous 
of  ascent,  wc  had  a  perfect  view  of  the  city.  It  covers  little  ground, 
is  extremely  compact,  and  strongly  fortified.  The  Rhone  divides  it 
into  unequal  portions,  that  on  the  southern  bank  being  much  the  most 
extensive  and  populous.     Few  places  can  be  compared  with  Geneva 


552  LETTERS  FR03I  EUROPE. 

in  eligibility  of  position,  in  purity  of  streams,  serenity  of  skies,  and  fer- 
tility of  the  adjacent  country.     Such  is  the  salubrity  of  the  noble  river,  . 
which  rolls  beneath  the  walls,  that  its  waters  are  raised  by  ponderous 
machinery,  moved  by  its  own  current,  for  the  supply  of  the  city. 

The  Museum  is  an  extensive,  valuable,  and  interesting  establish- 
ment.    Its  cabinets  of  natural  history,  its  collections  of  minerals, 
organic  remains,  reptiles,  insects,  fishes,  birds,  and  quadrupeds,  are 
extremely  rich,  and  arranged  with  the  utmost  scientific  precision. 
Not  a  link  is  wanting  or  out  of  its  place,  in  the  great  chain  of  being. 
The  endless  varieties  of  the  butterfly,  classically  designated  and  taste- 
fully disposed,  particularly  arrested  my  attention.     Among  the  rarer 
animals,  is  a  species  of  the  Capra  Ibex,  which  inhabits  the  highest 
peaks  of  Mont  Blanc,  and  is  seen  coursing  its  glaciers.     Near  it  is  an 
image  of  its  bleak  locality,  an  accurate  representation  of  the  mountain 
itself,  with  the  delineation  of  the  track  pursued  in  reaching  the  summit. 
Here  also  is  a  model  of  the  Lake  of  Geneva,  with  all  the  varieties  of 
the  finny  tribes,  that  inhabit  its  waters.     Some  of  the  trout  weigh  forty 
pounds.     The  Genevese  employ,  for  the  illustration  of  science,  col- 
lections of  precious  stones,  such  as  the  Itahans  use  for  finger-rings, 
pendants,  and  the  decorations  of  their  altars.     All  the  articles  in  the 
Museum  were  the  voluntary  contributions  of  individuals.     Among  the 
principal  donors,  are  Lady  Huntley  and  the  Neckers.     The  names  of 
two  of  the  latter,  sons  of  the  great  financier,  were  observed  in  the  list 
of  representatives,  posted  up  in  the  hall  of  the  Hotel  de  Ville. 

We  had  a  fine  ramble  through  the  Botanic  Garden,  which  lies  under 
the  south-western  walls  of  the  city,  upon  the  borders  of  a  luxuriant 
vale,  spreading  thence  to  the  banks  of  the  Arve.  It  is  skirted  on  one 
side  by  a  beautiful  promenade,  overhung  by  ranges  of  stately  elms.  On 
the  other  side,  rise  the  beetling  ramparts  of  the  old  city,  which  is 
physically  as  well  as  morally  "  set  upon  an  hill."  At  one  end  of  the 
garden,  is  the  splendid  seat  of  Mr.  Aynard,  a  distinguished  friend  of 
the  Greeks.  Besides  his  liberal  contributions,  in  aid  of  the  cause  of 
freedom,  and  the  emancipation  of  a  suffering  people,  his  wealth  has 
enabled  him  to  expend  three  millions  of  francs,  in  the  construction 
and  embellishment  of  his  chateau.  It  has  a  terraced  roof,  and  is 
neatly  adorned  with  Ionic  columns  ;  but  the  exterior  does  not  account 
for  such  an  enormous  sum. 

In  the  compartments  and  classifications  of  the  Garden,  the  same 
scientific  exactness  is  observable,  as  in  the  arrangement  of  the  Muse- 
um, though  I  should  think  the  botanical  collections  much  less  exten- 
sive and  complete,  than  the  other  provinces  in  tlie  kmgdoms  of  nature. 
The  gates  are  always  open  to  the  public,  and  the  Genevese  resort 


LETTERS  FllOM  EUROPE.  6^l^ 

hither  lor  exercise  and  recreation.  While  reposing  in  tiie  alcoves  of 
this  charming  retreat,  we  overheard  a  rehearsal  in  a  neighbouring 
theatre,  and  were  not  a  little  surprised  to  learn,  in  this  Protestant  and 
Calvinistic  city,  that  the  play  was  in  preparation  for  the  Sunday  eve- 
ning following.  The  ascendancy  of  French  customs  and  manners 
has  probably  led  to  this  seeming  inconsistency  in  the  character  of  an 
austere  and  rigid  people.  If  the  play  was  no  better  than  a  show. 
^vhicll  we  witnessed  at  another  theatre,  it  was  unfit  to  be  enacted  even 
on  a  week-day.  The  latter  consisted  chiefly  of  legerdemain  tricks  of 
a  juggler,  with  cards,  and  in  keeping  up  four  plates  above  his  head,  at 
the  same  moment.  His  audiencn  appeared  more  respectable,  than 
such  an  entertainment  deserved.  The  scenes  furnished  some  pretty 
views  of  the  Swiss  mountains. 

From  the  Botanic  Garden,  we  strolled  along  the  promenade,  to  the 
outhcrn  walls  of  the  town,  where  there  are  very  strong  bulwarks  for 
its  defence.  A  wire  bridge,  almost  as  delicate  and  fragile  as  the  web 
of  Ariadne,  is  stretched  across  the  deep  moat.  Beneath  the  ramparts 
are  spacious  cells,  proof  against  cannon  shot  and  shells,  with  sky-lights 
set  in  the  green  sod  above.  They  are  designed  as  a  safe  retreat  for 
the  inhabitants,  in  case  of  a  siege  or  assault  of  the  town.  The  Obser- 
vatory stands  on  an  eminence,  just  beyond  the  moat,  commanding  a 
full  view  of  all  the  glorious  scenery  in  the  vicinity  of  Geneva.  A  good 
set  of  glasses,  and  other  astronomical  instruments,  lend  all  the  facti- 
tious aid  required  by  the  eye,  in  its  glances  through  the  pure  heavens 
of  Switzerland. 

In  this  quarter  of  the  city  is  the  old  College,  which  was  founded  by 
John  Calvin,  and  is  still  kept  up  much  in  the  same  style  he  left  it. 
The  boys  are  divided  into  nine  classes,  rising  in  regular  gradation  ac- 
cording to  their  attainments.  All  the  branches  of  a  good  education 
are  here  taught.  The  number  of  Professors  is  between  twenty  and 
thirty.  Our  visit  happened  during  the  vacation ;  and  neither  master 
nor  pupil  waste  be  seen.  No  opportunity  was  afibrded  of  examining 
the  course  of  studies,  or  the  discipline  of  the  school  ;  but  its  reputation 
s  so  well  sustained,  as  to  continue  to  attract  students  from  all  parts 
of  the  world.  An  intelligent  lady,  the  wife  of  one  of  the  officers,  con- 
ducted us  through  tlie  library,  whicli  contains  C(),OOU  volumes,  with 
many  rare  and  valuable  manuscripts.  Among  the  number  are  all  the 
sermons  of  Calvin,  and  the  writings  of  other  reformers.  Their  like- 
nesses, and  the  portraits  of  many  distinguished  men,  adorn  the  halls. 
Lord  Chesterfield  appears  to  be  the  presiding  genius,  perhaps  as  a 
model  of  manners  to  tlie  students.  The  furniture  of  the  College  is 
remarkably  plain.  Geneva  has  one  or  two  free  schools  in  vigorous 
VOL.  n.  70 


>>1        LETTEKJ^  FROM  EUROPE. 

operation  ;  and  in  no  city  arc  the  advantages  of  education  more  fully 
enjoyed,  or  more  sedulously  improved. 

We  visited  the  principal  Hospital.  It  is  a  noble  institution,  which 
has  been  productive  of  much  active  benevolence.  Its  wards  are  as 
neat  and  comfortable,  as  the  chambers  of  a  private  dwelling.  The 
bedsteads  are  of  iron,  in  the  French  style.  In  the  small  chapel,  ser- 
vice is  occasionally  performed  in  English,  to  accommodate  emigrants 
resident  in  tiie  city.  One  wing  of  the  Hospital  is  appropriated  to 
foundlings.  Its  spacious  rooms  had  not  at  the  time  of  our  visit  a  sin- 
gle inmate.  The  average  number  does  not  excned  eight  or  ten  a  year — 
a  fact  strongly  illustrative  of  the  morals  of  the  Genevese. 

Our  friends  took  us  to  the  Athenaeum.  It  is  very  much  upon 
the  plan  of  the  Cercle  des  Phoceens  at  Marseilles.  The  apart- 
ments are  spacious,  neatly  furnished,  and  supplied  with  all  the 
appurtenances  of  such  an  estabhshment.  Its  code  of  by-laws  is  more 
severe  than  the  creed  of  Calvin.  A  person  is  not  allowed  to  walk, 
except  upon  tip-toe,  nor  to  whisper  above  his  breath.  The  rooms 
were  filled  with  visitants,  yet  so  silent  that  one  might  hear  a  pin  drop, 
I  observed  among  the  books  upon  the  tables,  the  North  American  He- 
view,  and  other  publications  from  the  United  States. 

At  evening  we  strolled  across  the  Rhone,  to  a  charming  promenade 
on  its  right  bank,  to  see  another  bright  sun  throw  its  last  beams  upon 
the  snows  of  Mont  Blanc.  A  scene  anticipated  at  Lausanne  was  here 
actually  realized.  Females  were  abroad,  to  give  their  children  an  air- 
ing. They  were  seated  upon  the  benches  at  work,  while  their  little 
ones  were  frolicking  in  the  alleys.  We  here  saw  a  panorama  of  the 
whole  of  Switzerland,  in  which  the  relative  altitudes  of  the  mountains 
and  the  dimensions  of  the  lakes  are  accurately  preserved.  It  is  sixty 
feet  square.  Every  village  and  hamlet,  with  the  paths  connecting 
them,  are  laid  down.  By  the  magic  of  the  show-man's  long  wand, 
we  were  transported  in  less  than  an  hour  to  every  part  of  the  country  ; 
crossing  its  beautiful  waters,  climbing  its  loftiest  glaciers,  and  de- 
scending into  its  deepest  vales.  It  is  a  most  ingenious  and  useful 
device.  Its  proprietor  has  taken  it  to  London  and  Paris,  without 
much  success. 

In  this  excursion,  we  visited  the  old  house,  in  which  Jean  Jacques 
Rousseau  was  born.  It  is  a  shattered,  mean  building,  standing  on  an 
obscure  street.  Such  is  its  decrepitude,  that  props  are  necessary  to 
prevent  it  from  falling.     The  front  bears  the  following  inscription  : 

"  Ici  fu  ne  J.  J.  Rousseau,  en  1712." 

Brief  as  it  is,  no  other  was  needed.     The  chamber  of  h'w  nativity  is  on 


LETTERS  FUOM  EUUOPE.  3o3 

Uie  second  lloor,  with  two  small  oUl-rasliioncd  windows  ia  Iroiit.  It  is 
of  the  humblest  kind,  corresponding  with  the  obscurity  ol"  his  birtli. 
Such  was  the  cradle  of  a  man,  who  shook  thrones  and  empires  by  tlie 
the  influence  of  his  pen. 

Our  last  afternoon  at  Geneva  was  occui)icd  in  an  excursion  with 
our  friends,  to  the  junction  of  the  Rhone  and  Arvc,  several  miles 
below  the  city.  The  latter  torrent  Hows  through  the  vale  of  Cha- 
mouni,  and  drains  the  glaciers  of  Mont  Blanc.  It  is  of  course  an 
irregular  and  furious  stream.  Its  waters  are  turbid,  and  of  a  much 
lighter  complexion  than  those,  with  which  they  here  mingle.  Two 
separate  currents  are  distinguishable  for  some  distance  below  the 
junction.  The  Rhone  hugs  the  lofty  and  romantic  clifTs,  which  beetle 
above  his  green  waves,  and  appears  to  scorn  a  tribute,  though  it  comejj 
from  the  throne  of  the  Alps. 

At  4  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  21st,  we  took  our  seats  in  the 
Diligence  for  Paris.  At  the  moment  of  departure,  a  lady  came  to 
the  window  of  the  carriage  in  the  dark,  and  asked  with  a  full  heart 
and  a  tremulous  voice — "  Is  thci'c  an  Englishman  in  the  coach  ? — My 
son  is  going  to  Scotland  alone."  Maternal  fondness  and  anxiety  en- 
listed the  sympathies  of  all  the  passengers,  in  favour  of  the  lad,  though 
he  was  abundantly  able  to  take  care  of  liimself ;  and  three  or  four 
persons  responded  at  the  same  moment.  Among  the  rest,  was  a  Lon- 
doner, who  had  been  making  the  tour  of  Switzerland,  with  Irving's 
I']xposition  of  the  Prophecies,  for  his  vade-mecum.  He  said  he  had 
read  it  through  three  times  during  his  travels,  without  being  able  to 
comprehend  some  of  the  more  abstruse  calculations,  relating  to  the 
advent  of  the  millennium  ;  but  he  intended  to  give  it  a  fourth  and  more 
critical  examination.  His  investigations  were  continued  at  intervals 
during  the  passage  ;  though  the  incidents  of  a  French  Diligence 
occasionally  broke  in  upon  his  pursuits.  One  of  his  countrymen  was 
railing  all  the  while  at  the  Calvinists  of  Lausanne,  who  had  turned 
the  religious  society,  to  which  he  belonged,  out  of  doors. 

We  pursued  the  shore  of  the  Lake  to  Rolle,  and  thence  began  to 
climb  the  hills  of  the  Pays  do  Vaud.  The  route  traverses  a  rough 
country ;  and  the  morning  was  so  thick,  even  after  daylight,  as  to 
circumscribe  our  horizon  to  narrow  limits.  A  comfortable  breakfast 
was  obtained  at  a  hamlet,  had  the  coachman  given  us  time  to  eat  it. 
The  ascent  of  the  Jura  is  extremely  arduous.  All  the  passengers 
were  obliged  to  walk  for  miles.  'J'liis  long  range  of  mountains  does 
not  exceed  (lirce  or  four  thousand  feet  in  height,  covered  with  deep 
forests,  which  had  now  a.ssumed  the  rich  and  varied  hues  of  autumn. 
The  rocks  arc  secondary,  with  an  intermixture  of  loose  fragments  of 


oSa  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

granite,  which  do  not  appear  from  tlieir  locaHties  to  be  natives  of  the 
ridge,  but  to  have  been  thrown  hither,  in  some  of  the  great  revolutions 
of  nature. 

Our  zig-zag  progress  up  the  acchvities  was  slow,  and  the  summit 
was  not  reached  till  noon.  From  the  topmost  crags,  on  the  right  of 
the  road,  we  had  a  last  and  enchanting  view  of  Mont  Blanc,  the  long 
line  of  Alps,  and  the  glaciers  of  Switzerland,  ghttering  in  a  meridian 
sun ;  whilst  the  vast  amphitheatre,  in  which  the  Lake  of  Geneva  is 
embosomed,  was  filled  nearly  to  its  brim  with  a  dense  mist,  rising  to  as 
perfect  a  level  as  the  expanse  of  the  sea.  Some  regret  was  felt,  that 
a  parting  look  could  not  be  given  to  the  blue  waters  of  Leman  slum- 
bering beneath  ;  though  its  image  had  already  been  indelibly  impressed 
upon  the  mind.  At  our  feet,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  mountains, 
.spread  another  kingdom,  making  the  third  in  sight  at  the  same  mo- 
ment. But  the  frontiers  of  France  looked  uniform,  dull,  and  unin- 
viting, in  comparison  with  the  romantic  regions  of  Savoy  and 
Switzerland,  to  wbiph  we  now  bade  farewell  for  ever. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.  r>57 

CONCLUSION. 

Upon  the  summit  of  the  Jura,  with  the  frontiers  of  a  country  once 
traversed  in  sight,  my  readers  and  myself  must  part,  so  far  at  least  as 
it  regards  a  journal  in  detail.  Fortunately  perhaps  for  them,  a  second 
volume  has  reached  its  limits,  before  the  materials  whence  it  was 
drawn  have  been  exhausted.  But  if  circumstances  permitted,  serious 
doubts  are  entertained,  whether  the  little  incidents  of  another  visit  to 
France  and  England,  necessarily  bearing  a  strong  resemblance  to 
scenes  already  described,  could  be  made  interesting  to  the  reader.  In 
the  mean  time,  as  I  am  anxious  to  approach  somewhat  nearer  my 
country  and  my  friends,  than  the  bleak  ridge  of  the  Jura  Alps,  before 
taking  leave  of  those,  who  have  had  the  patience  to  follow  me  in  my 
rambles  abroad,  a  brief  outline  of  my  homeward  passage  will  be  traced, 
noting  a  few  of  the  more  prominent  objects,  which  fell  within  the 
sphere  of  observation. 

Our  journey  to  Paris,  through  Dole  and  Dijon,  was  extremely  te- 
dious, occupying  four  days,  during  which  time  the  Diligence  was  con- 
stantly under  way,  though  it  made  but  tardy  progress.  It  had  for  a 
considerable  part  of  the  distance  twenty-one  passengers,  and  its  weight, 
including  the  bales  of  merchandise  piled  above,  was  estimated  at  up- 
wards of  four  tons.  The  road  is  uniform,  heavy,  and  dull,  leading 
through  a  flat  country  appropriated  almost  exclusively  to  corn  and 
vines,  with  scarcely  a  shade  of  variety  in  the  scenery.  Upon  the 
frontier,  a  custom-house  officer  detained  us  more  than  two  hours,  and 
examined  the  baggage  with  even  more  vigilance,  than  the  Austrians 
of  Lombardy.  At  Dole,  we  crossed  the  Saone.  A  canal  connects  it 
with  the  Rhine  at  Bale.  Dijon  is  the  capital  of  the  Department  of 
the  Cote  D'Or.  It  is  a  town  of  some  importance,  the  seat  of  the  old 
Dukes  of  Burgundy.  We  rode  several  miles  by  the  side  of  a  new  ca- 
nal, which  is  about  to  be  opened  between  the  Seine  and  the  Saone, 
connecting  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  and  Mediterranean.  The  work 
reflects  credit  upon  the  country.  One  of  the  passengers  pointed  out 
the  native  village  of  Bufibn.  Upon  the  banks  of  the  Yonne,  this  route 
unites  with  the  great  road  leading  to  Lyons,  pursued  in  our  journey  to 
the  South  of  France. 

We  entered  Paris  at  8  o'clock  in  the  evening.  It  was  brilliantly 
lighted  up,  and  never  appeared  better,  than  by  contrast  with  the  gloomy 
towns,  which  had  been  passed  in  the  route  from  Geneva.  Accommo- 
dations were  obtained  for  a  time  at  Meurice's  Hotel,  in  the  Rue  St. 
Honore,  which  is  probably  the  most  extensive  establishment  of  the 
kind  in  the  world,  having  365  beds,  and  a  corps  of  servants  more  ntr- 


558  LETTERS  FROIVl  EUROPE. 

merous  than  the  National  Guards.  The  prices  are  all  regulated  witli 
precision,  and  do  not  exceed  those  of  meaner  houses.  Soon  after  our 
return,  private  lodgings  were  again  taken,  at  our  old  residence,  in  the 
Rue  Montmartrc. 

We  found  Paris  agitated  by  three  events,  which  excited  more  atten- 
tion than  the  state  of  the  country.  These  were  the  death  of  Talma, 
and  the  visits  Mr.  Canning  and  Sir  Walter  Scott.  The  latter  was  still 
in  town  at  the  time  of  our  arrival.  A  fair  view  of  his  person  was  ob- 
tained, in  a  walk  through  the  Champs  Elysees,  at  the  celebration  of 
the  birth  day  of  St.  Louis.  The  crowd  seemed  to  care  less  for  him, 
than  for  wine,  which  flowed  from  vats  gratuitously,  the  ascent  of  bal- 
oons,  and  the  fiddlers  and  jugglers  at  the  temporary  theatres.  He  was 
plainly  dressed,  and  passed  unnoticed  through  the  throng,  with  his 
daughter  hanging  upon  his  left  arm,  while  his  right  was  used  in  sup- 
porting his  infirmity.  His  heavy  face  was  instantly  recognized,  from 
the  bust  that  had  been  seen  at  Constable's,  as  well  as  from  other  like- 
nesses and  descriptions.  The  Life  of  Napoleon  absorbed  most  of  his 
attention,  and  he  was  received  with  much  less  eclat,  than  Mr.  Canning. 

Talma's  death  shed  a  gloom,  not  only  over  the  theatres,  but  through 
all  classes  of  society,  except  the  ecclesiastics.  He  was  universally 
known,  and  much  respected  for  his  talents  and  acquirements,  aside 
from  his  professional  eminence.  No  people  go  farther  than  the  Pa- 
risians, in  the  enthusiastic  honours  paid  to  departed  greatness.  The 
shops  were  full  of  memoirs  and  eulogies,  both  in  prose  and  verse. 

We  went  the  rounds  of  all  the  theatres,  major  and  minor,  and  to 
some  of  them  frequently,  without  observing  much  to  be  added  or  sub- 
tracted from  the  sketches  already  given.  A  new  one,  opposite  the 
Bourse,  had  been  erected  in  our  absence.  It  has  a  beautiful  Ionic 
front,  and  the  interior  is  more  splendid,  than  that  of  any  other  in  the 
city.  The  French  stage  is  at  present  infinitely  before  that  of  Italy,  in 
every  thing  except  music  and  the  opera.  A  creditable  share  of  dra- 
matic talent  is  employed  in  bringing  out  new  pieces  ;  though  none  of 
the  writers  are  very  prominent. 

The  literary  corps  of  Paris  is  sufficiently  numerous,  and  not  wanting 
in  industry  ;  but  a  majority  of  the  number  are  employed  in  periodical 
publications,  and  in  those  departments,  which  can  hardly  be  consider- 
ed as  falling  within  the  province  of  regular  authorship.  Genius  and 
learning  are  not  sufiiciently  concentrated,  to  produce  any  of  those 
splendid  luminaries,  which  arose  in  the  incipient  stages  of  the  Revo- 
lution, and  were  quenched  in  the  blood  of  its  concluding  scenes.  But 
if  the  thunders,  which  could  shake  thrones  and  kingdoms,  are  no  longer 
wielded,  the  light  artillery  of  wit  and  humour,  the  shafts  of  satire,  and 
the  weapons  of  political  warfare,  are  managed  with  great  dexteritv. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.         559 

Reviews  and  newspapers  have  greatly  multiplied  within  a  few  years, 
and  arc  conducted  with  increased  ability  and  spirit. 

The  Revolution  had  the  effect  to  make  the  French  more  of  a  read- 
ing, inquisitive,  and  reflecting  people,  and  to  augment  the  demand  for 
periodical  literature,  as  well  as  for  politics  and  useful  information. 
The  consc(iucncc  has  been,  that  intcUigence  is  scattered  over  a  wider 
surface,  as  in  the  Unitcil  States  ;  instead  of  being  confined  to  particu- 
lar classes  or  professed  authors,  as  in  England  and  some  other  Euro- 
pean countries.  To  the  Editor  of  the  Revue  Encyclopedique,  the 
first  work  of  the  kind  in  France,  I  had  the  pleasure  of  an  introduction, 
and  met  an  agreeable  circle  of  the  literati  at  his  table.  His  Review- 
is  conducted  with  much  talent,  united  to  indefatigable  industry  ;  and 
some  of  the  most  distinguished  men  at  Paris  are  among  the  contribu- 
tors to  its  pages.  Its  contents  are  of  a  miscellaneous  and  practical 
character,  precisely  such  as  would  suit  an  American  community— one 
illustration  among  a  thousand  of  the  foregoing  remarks. 

During  a  second  visit  to  Paris,  much  attention  was  given  to  politics. 
The  journals  were  read  daily,  and  we  attended  the  debates  in  the  Cham- 
ber of  Deputies.  But  what  can  be  said  on  this  topic,  which  would  be 
new  or  interesting  in  the  United  States,  where  the  acts  and  views  of 
the  French  government  are  almost  as  well  known,  in  a  month  after 
they  transpire,  as  those  of  our  own  Administration  ?  An  active  war- 
fare against  the  Jesuits  and  the  Law  of  the  Press  kept  the  politicians 
of  Paris  busy  during  the  winter.  The  whole  number  of  tliis  holy  fra- 
ternity in  France  does  not  exceed  six  or  eight  hundred  ;  but  they  have 
great  influence,  and  have  succeeded  in  securing  the  car  both  of  the 
throne  and  the  ministry. 

It  is  unnecessary  to  say,  that  the  discussions  of  the  Censorship  were 
extremely  angry,  as  well  in  the  legislative  Iialls,  as  in  the  public  presses. 
The  sovereign  and  his  ministers  acted  like  madmen,  in  proposing  this 
law.  They  may  be  compared  to  persons  seated  upon  an  avalanche, 
which  a  breath  may  start.  It  was  their  policy  to  be  quiet,  and  pursue 
a  noiseless  course.  But  an  anxiety  to  avoid  a  catastrophe,  by  stifling 
the  voice  of  free  discussion,  will  have  no  other  tendency,  than  to  hasten 
the  event.  Another  Revolution  in  France,  within  a  very  few  years, 
is  inevitable.  An  active,  intelligent,  inquisitive,  and  philosophical 
people  will  not  endure,  for  any  considerable  time,  the  antiquated  forms 
and  policy  of  a  government,  which  is  two  centuries  behind  the  condi- 
tion of  the  country.  I  had  the  pleasure  of  being  introduced  to  the 
leader  of  the  opposition,  who  is  now  advanced  in  years,  and  venerable 
in  his  person.  Such  is  his  influence  in  society,  and  the  interest  wliicli 
is  felt  in  politics,  that  at  an  evening  party,  I  have  seen  a  circle  of  fifty 


560        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

gentlemen  about  him  at  the  same  moment,  listening  to  his  conversa- 
tion. A  subject  must  be  very  attractive,  to  withdraw  the  politeness 
and  gallantry  of  a  Frenchman  from  a  devotion  to  the  ladies. 

The  recurrence  of  the  Holydays,  and  of  the  gay  season  of  the  Car- 
nival, afforded  us  an  opportunity  of  seeing  more  of  the  public  and  pri- 
vate amusements  of  the  Parisians,  than  my  limits  will  permit  me  to  de- 
scribe. On  Christmas  eve,  the  greatest  religious  festival,  I  joined  a 
friend  and  his  family,  in  making  the  circuit  of  the  principal  churches. 
But  their  decorations,  as  well  as  the  ceremonies,  appear  tame,  dull, 
and  gloomy,  in  comparison  with  the  pomp  and  splendour  of  Italy. 
The  Carnival  was  not  witnessed  in  the  latter  country.  Its  scenes  were 
sufficiently  gay,  animated,  and  noisy  at  Paris.  A  bceiifgras,  decora- 
ted with  garlands,  was  led  through  the  principal  streets,  followed 
by  triumphal  chariots,  in  which  rode  Cupids  and  other  divinities 
of  a  maturer  age,  with  half  of  the  metropolis  at  their  heels.  The 
show  was  worth  looking  at,  rather  from  its  novelty,  than  from 
its  intrinsic  merits.  Troops  of  both  sexes,  disguised  by  an  inter- 
change of  dresses,  were  seen  coursing  the  Boulevards,  personating 
all  manner  of  characters,  and  indulging  in  rude  levities.  Some  of 
them  underwent  a  metemsychosis,  and  appeared  at  the  windows,  in 
the  shape  of  bears  and  wild  beasts.  Balls  were  given  every  night,  both 
in  public  and  private,  masked  and  unmasked.  We  attended  one  or 
two  at  the  French  Opera,  and  half  a  dozen  at  the  houses  of  our  ac- 
quaintances. At  the  former,  a  thousand  persons  perhaps  assembled 
each  evening.  Gentlemen  of  all  ranks  in  society  attend  ;  but  ladies 
of  respectabihty  are  more  particular,  except  occasionally  as  mere 
spectators. 

In  the  round  of  hospitalities,  the  dinner  parties,  soirees,  and  social 
circles  of  our  friends,  we  found  enjoyments  of  a  more  elevated,  ration- 
al, and  pleasing  description.  To  the  families,  and  individuals,  whose 
polite  attentions  had  contributed  so  largely  to  the  pleasures  of  our  first 
visit,  and  were  now  renewed,  many  agreeable  acquaintances  were 
added  during  the  winter.  In  several  instances,  estimable  and  intimate 
friendships  were  contracted,  which  I  hope  may  be  durable  as  life  :  cer- 
tainly on  my  part,  the  remembrance  of  many  happy  hours,  the  grateful 
and  cherished  recollections  of  kindnesses  manifested  to  strangers,  and 
continued  to  the  very  eve  of  our  departure  from  the  city,  are  inscribed 
too  indelibly  upon  the  heart  to  be  forgotten. 

We  re-examined  old  localities  and  visited  new  ones,  went  a  second 
time  through  the  Louvre,  attended  the  courts  at  the  Palais  de  Justice, 
looked  at  its  curious  historical  records,  and  made  an  excursion  to  St. 
Cloud  and  Sevres  :  but  I  have  no  space  for  even  a  brief  notice  of  these. 


LETTERS  FK031  EUROPE.        r»Gl 

vuid  u  hundred  other  objects,  and  nuist  take  French  leave  of  the 
metropolis,  though  several  days  were  occupied,  in  making  parting 
calls  upon  the  circle  of  our  friends.  Al\cr  so  long  and  so  agreeable  a 
residence,  associated  with  a  thousand  scenes  of  instruction  anddelifrht.^ 
last  looks  and  last  words  excited  painful  emotions,  notwiljistanding 
the  allurements  of  a  homeward  passage. 

On  the  morning  of  the  6th  of  March,  we  took  the  Diligence  for 
Calais.  The  rain  poured  in  such  torrents,  as  to  aflbrd  no  opportunity 
of  looking  back  from  the  heights  of  Montmartre.  It  was  in  all  respects 
a  gloomy  day.  The  evening  of  the  7th  brought  us  again  to  Dcssein's 
Hotel.  A  tempest  raged  all  night,  and  the  wind  continued  high  next 
morning.  The  master  of  one  of  the  Havre  packets,  who  from  boy- 
hood had  been  accustomed  to  brave  every  variety  of  weather,  went  to 
the  wharves,  looked  at  the  clouds  and  sea,  and  thought  the  boat 
might  cross  in  safety.  He  was  appointed  commodore  of  the  squadron 
of  passengers,  who  confided  in  his  judgment,  and  in  his  skill  in  case 
of  accident.  It  was  a  tremendous  blow,  and  the  agitation  of  the  sea 
"was  frightful,  dashing  over  the  deck  at  every  swell.  Such  was  the 
tumult  of  winds  and  waters,  tiiat  we  could  not  land  at  Dover,  and 
were  obliged  to  run  fourteen  miles  up  the  coast,  to  make  the  harbour 
of  Ramsgatc.  This  accident  was  in  part  alleviated  by  aflbrding  us  a 
view  of  Deal  and  the  Downs,  as  well  as  of  the  fine  port,  which  the 
])oat  safely  entered  ;  though  it  was  diificult  to  reach  the  shore,  even 
when  sheltered  by  the  noble  piers  of  granite.  A  good  hotel  made  us 
i;omfortable  for  the  night ;  and  the  next  day  we  rode  to  London, 
visiting  the  totnl)  of  the  Black  Prince,  at  Canterbury,  on  our  way. 

We  immediately  recommenced  an  examination  of  interesting  locali- 
ties in  the  British  metropolis  and  its  environs,  which  had  not  been 
seen  at  cither  of  our  former  visits.  The  advice  of  our  friends  afforded 
us  every  facility  in  the  accomplishment  of  these  objects.  Though  not 
summoned,  we  went  both  to  the  Police  Office,  in  Bow-street,  and  the 
Lord  Mayor's  Court,  at  the  Mansion  House.  The  former  is  a  small 
place,  for  one  that  makes  so  much  noise.  Justice  Biriiie  was  upon 
the  bench,  and  a  pretty  French  woman  upon  the  stand,  who  spoke 
imperfect  English.  She  had  arraigned  a  sturdy  coachman  for 
exorbitant  fees,  but  lost  her  cause.  The  Lord  Mayor  is  a  line  looking 
man.  He  was  arrayed  in  the  badges  of  office,  but  dispensed  justice 
much  at  his  ease,  allowing  the  litigants  at  the  bar  to  talk  over  the 
matter  in  a  familiar  manner  among  themselves.  His  audience  was 
not  of  the  most  respectable  kind,  and  a  hasty  retreat  was  efiected. 

The  British  Museum  occu[)ied  half  a  day.     It  is  an  extensive  and 

VOL,  Ti.  "1 


562        LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

noble  institution,  though  inferior  to  the  Garden  of  Plants  at  Paris. 
Twenty-six  rooms  are  filled  with  an  infinite  variety  of  articles  in 
Natural  History,  with  numerous  curiosities  from  the  Indies  and  the 
South-Sea  Islands ;  such  as  idols  and  implements  of  the  aborigines. 
The  cabinets  of  mineralogy,  conchology,  and  organic  remans  arc 
very  complete.  Much  neatness  and  taste,  as  well  as  a  rigid  regard  to 
classification,  are  displayed  in  the  arrangement ;  and  the  apartments 
are  kept  comfortable  by  fires.  A  large  building,  adjoining  the  institu- 
tion, is  now  going  up  for  the  accommodation  of  the  King's  Library. 
The  celebrated  Elgin  Marbles  are  deposited  in  a  sort  of  shed,  forming 
one  wing  of  the  Museum.  They  did  not  afford  us  a  very  high  degree 
of  pleasure,  being  chiefly  torsos,  interesting  alone  to  professed  artists. 
A  recumbent  river-god,  and  a  Perseus  are  reckoned  the  finest. 

Miss  Linwood's  gallery  of  embroidered  pictures  is  one  of  the  best 
shows  in  London.  They  are  all  wrought  in  worsted,  and  the  texture 
far  exceeds  in  delicacy  the  most  finished  tapestry  of  the  Gobelins. 
She  deserves  infinite  credit  for  her  taste  and  industry.  The  whole 
was  done  with  her  own  needle.  She  is  a  native  of  Leicester,  and 
now  at  the  age  of  70.  Foxes  and  other  animals  are  executed  to  the 
life.  Cowper's  Woodman  is  admirable  ;  so  also  are  her  copies  of 
some  of  the  great  paintings  of  Italy.  The  portrait  of  Napoleon  is 
among  the  embellishments  of  the  hall. 

We  made  a  fashionable  call  on  two  Chinese  ladies  and  a  gentleman, 
from  a  little  town  near  Canton,  who  have  taken  lodgings  in  Pall  Mall. 
It  is  painful  enough  to  see  wild  beasts  traversing  and  beating  their 
cages,  in  search  of  that  freedom  which  nature  bestowed  ;  but  that 
human  beings,  and  females  especially,  should  be  exposed  for  a  show, 
like  the  brutes  and  reptiles  of  Exeter  'Change,  is  outrageous.  Yet  it  is 
a  useful  exhibition,  giving  correct  ideas  of  remote  countries.  The 
apartments  are  fitted  up  exactly  in  the  style  of  the  Celestial  Empire. 
You  see  in  fact  the  interior  of  a  Chinese  parlour.  The  ladies  were 
sitting  at  a  table,  busy  with  their  work  ;  but  rose  and  walked  several 
times  across  the  room,  to  show  us  their  forms  and  little  feet.  They 
were  richly  dressed  in  blue  mantles,  with  pendants  in  their  ears,  and 
their  black,  glossy  hair  neatly  done  up.  Their  nails  were  longer  than 
those  of  the  king  of  Babylon.  The  man  speaks  Enghsh,  and  is  intel- 
ligent. I  conversed  with  him  about  his  country.  He  talked  Chinese 
to  me.     The  language  is  strongly  guttural  and  nasal. 

An  examination  of  the  paintings  of  living  artists,  at  the  British 
Institution,  afforded  us  a  high  degree  of  pleasure.  It  is  in  all  respects 
creditable  to  the  country.     Two  spacious  apartments,  neatly  fitted  up. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        5G3 

and  kept  comfortable  by  carpets  and  fires,  are  filled  with  works  of 
merit,  in  handsome  frames  suspended  from  the  walls.  The  subjects 
arc  judiciously  chosen,  beini»  chiclly  illustrative  ol"the  scenery,  history, 
and  manners  of  the  country,  with  no  saintu  and  few  attempts  to 
delineate  the  mysteries  of  religion. 

In  the  National  Gallery,  we  saw  the  great  picture  of  West,  the 
Saviour  Healing  the  Sick,  and  the  inimitable  comic  scenes  of  Hogarth 
The  walls  of  two  rooms  on  the  serond  floor  are  lined  with  the  pro- 
ductions of  the  great  Italian  masters.  Here  also  arc  several  of 
Wilkie's.  His  pencil  is  scarcely  inferior  to  (hat  of  Teniers,  in  the 
delineation  of  low  life.  The  collection  contains  two  portraits,  by  Sir 
Joshua  Reynolds.  If  his  skill  was  worthy  of  his  fame,  these  cannot  be 
fair  specimens  of  his  works.  They  would  bo  passed  unnoticed  in  an 
ordinary  gallery. 

I  was  delighted  with  an  excursion  to  Chelsea,  and  a  visit  to  the 
Study  of  Chantrey,  the  celebrated  sculptor.  He  received  mo  with 
much  cordiality,  and  conducted  me  through  his  apartments  himself 
He  is  remarkably  plain,  frank,  and  unostentatious  in  his  manners. 
The  productions  of  his  chisel  will  bear  a  rigid  examination,  even  after 
those  of  Thorwaldsen,  Canova,  and  Trentanove.  Ilis  statue  of  Watts, 
the  Engineer,  is  one  of  the  most  finished  I  have  seen  in  any  countrv. 
The  busts  of  Sir  Walter  Scott,  Mr.  (.'anning,  and  other  eminent  men 
are  in  the  highest  degree  creditable  to  his  skill  and  taste.  His  model 
of  Washington,  designed  for  Boston,  struck  me  favourably.  He  con- 
versed freely  on  his  professional  pursuits,  and  his  remarks  as  well  as 
his  works,  led  me  to  entertain  a  very  high  opinion  of  his  talents. 

One  evening  was  passed  in  the  House  of  Commons,  and  another  in 
the  House  of  Lords,  in  listening  to  the  debates.  In  the  former  Mr. 
Peel,  Mr.  Robinson,  Mr.  Baring,  and  Mr.  Hume  were  among  the 
speakers  during  the  session,  which  was  protracted  till  1  o'clock  in  the 
morning.  Of  these  gentlemen,  the  first  is  decidedly  the  most  eloquent. 
He  is  energetic,  fluent,  and  animated  in  his  manner.  Some  of  the 
others  stammered  and  hobbled  along  in  a  tedious  and  awkward  way. 
But  even  their  embarrassments  and  repetitions  were  nothing  in  com- 
parison with  those  of  several  of  the  members  in  the  other  House  - 
where  the  Marquis  of  Bute,  the  Earl  (»f  Westmoreland,  Lord  Ellen- 
borough,  Lord  King,  and  the  Lord  Chancellor  ro.sc  in  succession  and 
occupied  the  floor  for  the  evening,  on  the  subject  of  (he  Came  Laws. 
They  seemed  to  make  a  sport  of  legislation.  There  is  (iir  less  difrni- 
(y  in  the  debates  of  Parliament,  or  of  the  Cliamher  of  Deputies  in 
France,  than  in  our  own  legislalive   bf.die-       'J'he   Lord  Chancellor 


^ 


o!U  LETTERS  FROM   EUROPE. 

kept  the  members  in  a  roar  of  laughter,  in  relating  some  ol'  liis  sport'' 
ing  anecdotes.  I  anticipated  much  more  gravity,  when  he  rose,  in  his 
gown  and  full-bottomed  wig,  from  the  Woolsack.  The  forms  of 
legislation  differ  little  from  our  own.  We  were  turned  out  of  the 
halls  at  least  a  dozen  times,  while  the  question  on  some  unimportant 
motion  was  taken. 

Haifa  day  was  pleasantly  occupied  in  a  visit  to  the  Botanic  Garden, 
at  Chiswick,  six  or  eight  miles  from  town.  This  extensive  establish- 
ment occupies  an  area  of  thirty-three  acres,  handsomely  enclosed,  and 
intersected  by  gravel  walks.  It  is  divided  into  separate  compartments, 
for  experiments  in  the  different  branches  of  botany  and  horticulture. 
The  location  of  the  Garden  does  not  appear  to  be  very  eligible,  as  the 
ground  is  low,  wet,  and  heavy.  Large  sums  of  money  have  been 
expended  on  its  appendages,  and  in  filling  it  with  plants.  A  good 
degree  of  zeal  and  activity  prevails  among  the  members  of  the  Horti- 
cultural Society  to  whom  it  belongs. 

The  1 8th  was  occupied  in  an  excursion  to  Richmond  Hill,  Twicken- 
ham, and  Hampton  Court.  It  was  too  early  in  the  season  for  scenery, 
of  which  the  English  poets  have  drawn  such  exquisite  sketches,  to 
appear  in  all  its  softness  and  splendour.  The  hills  were  naked,  the 
trees  leafless,  cattle  had  scarcely  left  their  winter  stalls,  and  the  land- 
scape was  chilled  by  the  storms  of  the  equinox.  But  it  is  very  easy 
to  conceive  from  the  outlines  of  the  country,  that  the  windings  of  the 
Thames  through  its  rural  and  flowery  borders  may  in  summer  possess 
all  the  charms,  which  Thompson  and  Pope  have  described.  We 
visited  the  tomb  of  the  latter  poet,  in  the  village  church  at  Twicken- 
ham. A  white  marble  tablet  upon  the  wall  is  inscribed  with  an 
epitaph  from  his  own  pen.  His  ashes  sleep  near  the  chancel.  The 
sexton  informed  me,  that  he  saw  the  coffin  a  year  or  two  since.  It 
was  eighteen  inches  deep,  to  accommodate  the  personal  deformities, 
which  composed  the  tenement  of  an  immortal  mind.  His  filial  piety 
dedicated  a  handsome  slab  to  the  memory  of  his  parents,  in  the  same 
church.  His  Grotto  is  now  in  a  state  of  dilapidation.  It  is  on  the 
left  of  the  road  between  Twickenham  and  Hampton  Court.  On  our 
way  to  the  latter  place,  we  passed  Bushy  Park,  the  seat  of  the  Duke 
of  Clarence.  The  splendour  of  his  grounds  and  palace  furnish  but  a 
poor  argument  in  favour  of  the  eleemosynary  bill,  which  we  had  heard 
called  up  but  a  few  evenings  before  in  the  House  of  Commons,  pro- 
posing to  add  £10,000  a  year  to  his  income. 

Hampton  Court  is  beautifully  situated  upon  the  bank  of  the  Thames, 
encircled  with  gardens,  and  shaded  with  venerable  elms.     Deer  were 


LETTERS  FRO>I  EUROPE.         .">(J5 

loeamg  upon  the  la\vn«,  which  are  ombellishcd  with  ibuiUaiiis  and 
statues.  TJic  palace  is  of  brick,  witli  Gothic  towers.  It  exhibits  no 
architectural  grandeur  or  beauty  ;  but  its  age  gives  it  an  air  of  dignity. 
We  traversed  its  ancient  courts  and  halls,  which  are  filled  with  pictures 
of  the  Italian  school.  The  Cartoons  of  Raphael  arc  by  far  the  most 
interesting  articles.  They  have  been  exactly'  copied  in  the  prints  of 
Ilalaway,  on  which  he  was  occupied  twenty-two  years,  and  which 
here  sell  at  a  guinea  each.  The  collection  comprises  many  good  pic- 
tures. Among  the  furniture  of  the  halls,  is  a  clock  which  runs  a  year 
and  a  day,  without  recjuiring  to  be  wound  up :  also  the  state  bed  of 
Charles  II. 

During  our  third  visit  to  London,  we  had  another  ramble  througli 
Kensington  Gardens,  walked  round  Smithfield,  looked  at  the  Old 
Bailey,  examined  the  Hospital  of  St.  Bartholomew,  strolled  to  the 
Monument,  followed  Dr.  Johnson  to  Dolly's  chop-house,  hunted  up 
the  reminiscences  of  great  men,  passed  several  evenings  at  Drury-lane 
and  Covent  Garden  Theatres,  witnessed  a  splendid  Oratorio,  in  which 
all  the  musical  talents  of  the  metropolis  were  united,  saw  Matthews 
preside  in  his  "  Home  Circuit,"  paid  our  respects  to  old  friends,  and 
renewed  acquaintances  with  others,  who  had  arrived  in  our  absence. 
If  notices  of  these  various  topics  were  capable  of  keeping  alive  the 
interest  of  the  reader,  they  would  too  long  detain  me  from  my  native 
shores,  which  I  am  anxious  to  reach  as  soon  as  possible. 

On  the  21st  of  March,  we  rode  to  Brighton,  fifty-three  miles  from 
London.  The  route  leads  through  the  counties  of  Surry  and  Sussex, 
and  is  the  dullest  that  had  been  traversed  in  England.  Brighton  is  a 
pretty  town,  situated  under  the  hills,  upon  the  sea-shore.  It  has 
24,000  inhabitants,  and  is  one  of  the  most  fashionable  watering  places 
in  the  kingdom.  The  present  King  gave  it  all  its  celebrity.  He  had 
here  a  cottage,  which  is  said  to  have  been  the  scene  of  his  pleasures 
and  amours,  when  he  was  Prince  of  Wales.  We  took  lodgings  for 
the  night,  upon  the  very  strand,  where  the  waters  broke  against  the 
rocks,  so  near  as  to  lull  our  slumbers. 

A  walk  of  an  hour  or  two  over  town  enabled  us  to  examine  the 
Baths,  the  beautiful  promenades  denominated  the  Steyne,  and  the 
Royal  Pavilion.  This  palace  is  a  fantastic,  mongrel  edifice,  half  Chi- 
nese and  half  Turkish,  between  a  mosque  and  a  pagod.  It  is  amusing 
from  its  novelty,  and  its  towers  and  pinnacles  have  an  air  of  sober 
grandeur.  The  Pier  Head  is  another  curiosity.  It  (»rojccts  1 100  feet 
into  the  sea,  and  is  fourteen  feet  wide,  supported  on  massive  chains, 
which  are  stretched  over  four  arches.     It  is  designed  for  the  accommo- 


am  LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE. 

tlation  of  packets  and  steam-boats  plying  between  Brigliton  and  Dieppe, 
in  taking  on  board  and  landing  passengers.  The  sides  are  guarded 
by  iron  railings,  and  one  or  two  shops  stand  upon  the  piers.  In  the 
old  village  church,  upon  the  lull,  we  found  the  tomb  of  Tatterstall, 
who  saved  the  life  of  Charles,  and  shipped  him  ofl'  to  France  in  a  cock- 
boat. His  hut,  in  which  the  monarch  was  secreted,  is  now  occupied 
as  a  pot-house.  The  suburbs  of  Brighton  exhibit  some  pretty  speci- 
mens of  architecture.  Doric  pillars,  after  the  models  of  those  in  the 
ruins  of  Pajstum,  are  fashionable  in  all  this  part  of  the  country,  and 
make  handsome  ornaments  for  the  porches  of  houses. 

The  next  day  we  rode  to  Portsmouth,  distant  fifty  miles,  hugging 
the  shore  all  the  way,  exposed  to  bleak  winds,  with  barren  downs  upon 
our  right.  In  many  places  the  violence  of  the  sea  has  made  inroads 
upon  the  coast,  and  the  gales  are  so  severe,  as  to  have  given  the  trees 
an  inchnation  towards  the  north.  The  village  of  Worthing  is  another 
watering-place.  At  Arundel  we  passed  the  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Nor- 
folk, the  oldest  peer  in  the  realm,  and  a  Catholic  in  religion.  It  is 
prettily  situated  upon  a  woody  chtf,  overlooking  the  vale  of  the  Arun. 
The  palace  is  of  free-stone,  and  is  said  to  contain  a  good  collection  of 
pictures.  While  the  coachman  was  changing  horses  at  Chichester, 
we  ran  quite  round  the  Cathedral,  in  pursuit  of  the  sexton,  for  the 
purpose  of  gaining  admittance  to  the  interior,  to  look  at  the  tomb  of 
the  poet  Collins,  who  was  a  native  of  this  old  city;  but  the  horn  blew^ 
before  the  key  could  be  found.  The  steeple  of  the  church  rises  to  a 
prodigious  altitude,  and  the  building  is  not  a  mean  specimen  of  Gothic 
architecture.  Upon  the  borders  of  Hampshire  the  scenery  improves, 
and  the  country  becomes  more  fertile.  A  distant  view  of  the  Isle  of 
AVight  was  obtained  from  the  road. 

The  environs  of  Portsmouth  are  low  and  marshy,  intersected  by 
canals  and  dikes.  Strong  fortresses  guard  the  entrance.  The  town 
itself  is  insulated,  occupying  the  island  of  Portsea.  The  streets  are 
narrow  and  mean.  We  took  lodgings  for  the  night,  and  the  next 
morning  examined  the  harbour,  which  is  unrivalled  in  situation,  safety, 
and  convenience.  The  arm  of  the  sea,  opening  at  Spithead,  between 
the  Isle  of  Wight  and  the  shore,  sets  up  five  or  six  miles  into  the  land, 
with  a  sufficient  depth  of  water  for  the  largest  ships,  which  are  hero 
securely  sheltered  from  the  winds  and  waves.  One  hundred  and  fifty 
of  the  larger  class  were  in  port,  constituting  no  small  part  of  *•'  the 
wooden  walls  of  England."  We  went  on  board  the  Victory  74,  the 
Admiral's  ship  in  the  battle  of  Trafalgar,  and  were  shown  the  spot 
upon  the  quarter-deck,  where   Nelson  fell.      The    equipments  and 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE  o67 

arniuments  of  1  lie  Victory  were  examined.  They  differ  very  little  from 
those  of  our  own  ships.  The  King's  yacht  was  riding  at  anchor 
above  the  town.  We  crossed  the  ferry  to  Gossport,  but  saw  nothing, 
save  an  instance  of  aristocracy  upon  the  smallest  scale,  that  had  ever 
been  witnessed.  The  ferryman  sung  out  to  a  boy  to  come  on  board 
as  the  boat  was  leaving.  An  oarsman  responded — "  My  little  gem- 
men  will  take  a  boat  by  himsel  for  sixpence."  The  ferriage  was 
two  pence ;  so  that  here  was  four  pence  to  boot  between  a  sprig  of 
gentry  and  a  common  person.  We  made  application  for  admittance 
to  the  Navy  Yard.  All  went  well,  till  the  place  of  residence  was 
required,  when  the  word  "  New-York"  barred  the  gates  against  us. 
I  wrote  a  note  to  the  Admiral  of  the  Port,  stating  our  objects,  and 
received  for  answer,  that  it  was  not  in  his  power  to  admit  us  ;  but  if 
we  would  wait  till  the  next  day,  he  would  make  signals  to  London  by 
telegraph,  and  obtain  leave  of  the  Board  of  Admiralty.  Unwilling  to 
give  him  so  much  trouble,  and  to  delay  our  journey  another  day,  exclu- 
sively for  this  object,  I  declined  an  act  of  courtesy,  which  was  tendered 
in  a  liberal  spirit. 

On  the  same  evening,  we  rode  twenty-two  miles,  to  Southampton, 
and  again  took  lodgings  for  the  night.  The  town  is  pleasantly 
situated  upon  the  water,  neatly  built,  with  bow  windows  in  front  of  the 
Iiouses,  and  has  a  population  of  1 2,000.  In  the  church  of  St.  Michael, 
■we  saw  a  tablet  in  memory  of  Lanchton,  the  friend  of  Johnson  ;  and 
in  that  of  Holy  Rood,  the  monument  of  Elizabeth  Stanley,  with  an 
epitaph  by  Thompson.  The  prose  part  of  it  is  bombast,  and  the  verses 
quite  too  long.  She  is  alluded  to  in  the  Seasons.  This  is  the  native 
place  of  Dr.  Watts,  but  no  traces  of  him  were  found. 

The  next  day  we  continued  our  journey  to  Bath,  a  distance  of  fifty- 
three  miles,  through  Wiltshire  ;  one  of  the  roughest  districts  in  Eng- 
land. It  is  a  grazing  county,  and  myriads  of  sheep  were  scattered 
over  the  hills.  The  aspect  of  the  scenery  is  rude  and  wild,  in  com- 
parison with  other  portions  of  the  Island.  We  paused  a  few  minutes 
at  Salisbury,  the  capital,  and  looked  at  the  Cathedral.  It  is  one  of 
the  finest  specimens  of  pure  Gothic  in  the  kingdom.  The  interior  is 
in  excellent  taste.  A  beautiful  square,  planted  with  elms,  surrounds 
the  church  ;  and  the  environs  of  the  town  watered  by  the  Avon  arc 
pleasant.  Artificial  irrigation  increases  the  natural  verdure  of  the 
pastures.  A  gentleman  at  the  hotel  in  Warminster  informed  us,  that 
the  clergyman  of  that  town  is  an  American.  Our  informant  was  one 
of  his  parishioners. 

At  evening  wc  arrived  on  the  borders  of  »Somersetshirc,  and  from 


5t)S  LETTERS  PROM  EUROPE. 

a  high  hill,  had  a  first  view  of  Bath,  situated  upon  an  opposite  slope, 
rising  fi-ora  the  right  bank  of  the  Avon.*  The  town  can  scarcely  be 
surpassed  in  the  eligibility  of  its  position,  the  elegance  of  its  exterior. 
or  the  splendour  of  its  environs.  No  city  in  England  can  be  compared 
with  it  in  magnificence.  The  buildings  are  all  of  a  handsome  species 
of  stone  found  in  the  vicinity,  uniform  in  complexion,  wrought  with 
exactness,  and  put  together  with  taste.  There  is  scarcely  a  mean 
structure  in  the  whole  city  ;  and  continuous  ranges  are  frequently  as 
stately  and  sumptuous  as  palaces.  The  King's  Circus,  and  the 
numerous  Crescents,  rising  one  above  another  upon  the  declivity,  ex- 
hibit all  the  embellishments  of  Grecian  architecture,  applied  to 
lofty  proportions  and  the  finest  materials.  We  remained  a  day  and 
rambled  through  nearly  all  the  streets,  which  are  kept  as  clean  as  the 
floor  of  a  parlour.  The  spacious  Pump-room,  the  rendezvous  of  visi- 
tants, contains  a  portrait  of  the  celebrated  Beau  Nash,  former  master 
of  ceremonies  at  the  Assemblies.  I  drank  of  the  waters.  They  have 
slight  chalybeate  properties.  The  old  Cathedral  is  called  the  lantern 
of  Bath,  on  account  of  the  multiplicity  of  its  windows.  It  contains 
the  tombs  of  many  strangers  and  foreigners.  Two  are  here  killed  by 
dissipation,  to  one  who  is  cured  by  drinking  of  the  fountains.  The 
fashionable  season  is  December  and  January. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  25th,  we  rode  to  Bristol,  and  remained  for 
the  night.  It  appears  mean  in  comparison  with  Bath  ;  though  it  is  in 
fact  a  fine  old  town,  situated  on  both  sides  of  the  Avon,  possessing 
much  wealth,  with  a  population  of  100,000.  The  growth  of  Liverpool 
has  in  a  great  measure  ruined  its  commercial  prosperity.  We  rambled 
over  the  city,  looked  at  the  docks,  quays,  and  public  buildings.  Ad- 
mission was  in  vain  sought  to  the  church,  which  contains  a  monument 
in  memory  of  the  father  of  WilUam  Penn.  An  old  house  was  desig- 
nated, in  which  Chatterton  found  his  famous  manuscripts  of  the  15th 
century. 

Early  the  next  morning,  we  took  the  steam-boat  for  Chepstow,  in 
Monmouthshire,  descending  the  Avon  and  crossing  the  Channel.  At 
the  moment  of  departure  from  Bristol,  the  sun  rose  splendidly  upon 
the  rocks  of  Clifflon,  which  are  high,  broken,  and  picturesque.  The 
secret  of  the  decline  of  the  old  city  is  explained  in  a  descent  of  the 
river,  the  channel  of  which  is  narrow,  crooked,  and  rapid,  rendering  it 
necessary  for  vessels  to  warp  up.  It  is  only  remarkable,  that  com- 
mercial enterprise  has  so  long  overcome  these  natural  disadvantages. 


*  The  reader  probably  need  not  be  told,  that  the  word  Avon  is  a  generic  term 
in  the  old  Paxon.  meaning;  river :.  and  hence  its  frequent  occurrence  in  England. 


LETTERS  FR031  EUKOFE.  otit) 

The  boat  had  a  fine  band  of  musicians  on  board,  and  I  spuiu\ely  uskcd 
them  to  play  Yankee  Doodle.  To  my  sur[)rise  they  instantly  com- 
plied with  the  rec|uest ;  and  we  marched  up  the  romantic  current  of 
the  Wye,  to  the  brisk  notes  of  a  republican  air.  The  tide  rises  in  this 
river  to  the  astonishing  height  of  sixty  feet.  Vou  see  marks  of  the 
water  far  up  the  perpendicular  clills.  At  Chepstow  a  large  old  baronial 
castle,  now  in  ruins,  stands  upon  the  rocks  overhanging  the  stream. 
Its  battlements  and  ancient  keeps  wore  traversed.  It  was  battered 
down  by  the  cannon  of  Cronnvcll. 

We  here  took  a  vehicle  and  rode  live  miles  up  the  right  bank  of  the 
Wye,  to  look  at  the  ruins  of  Tintern  Abbey.  They  will  not  bear  a 
comparison  with  those  of  Fountains  Abbey,  in  Yorkshire,  which  1 
have  fully  described.  A  dirty  village  in  the  vicinity  breaks  in  upon 
the  seclusion  of  the  vale,  and  in  a  great  measure  destroys  the  effect, 
which  the  ivy-mantled  walls  and  crumbling  arches  would  otherwise 
produce.  The  scenery  of  the  Wye  is  nevertheless  extremely  wild  and 
romantic.  Some  allowance  is  also  to  be  made  for  a  diflerence  in 
season  ;  though  the  day  of  our  visit  was  delightfully  pleasant.  On 
our  way  back  to  Chepstow,  we  stopped  at  Wynd-Cliff  Cottage.  Its 
walls  and  ceiling,  as  well  as  its  seats  and  other  furniture,  are  entirely 
covered  with  moss.  The  keeper  provided  us  a  repast,  while  we 
climbed  the  high  cliffs,  and  obtained  an  enchanting  view  of  the  shores 
of  Bristol  Channel,  and  the  deep  vale  of  the  Wye. 

On  the  same  evening,  we  rode  up  the  right  bank  of  the  Severn, 
which  is  here  a  broad  estuary,  to  Gloucester,  and  remained  for  the 
night.  An  American  tourist,  who  had  left  us  at  Rome  on  his  way 
to  Naples,  happened  to  be  at  the  hotel.  The  next  morning  we  went 
to  the  Cathedral,  to  look  at  the  tomb  of  Dr.  Jcnner,  the  discoverer  of 
vaccination  ;  and  a  monument  in  memory  of  General  Lyman,  of 
Boston,  United  States  Consul  at  London.  Tiiis  church  is  one  of  the 
largest  and  most  venerable  in  the  kingdom. 

We  continued  our  journey  hence  to  Cheltenham,  and  rambled  over 
that  celebrated  watering-place.  It  is  destitute  of  interest  of  any  kind. 
Its  situation  is  low,  its  streets  muddy,  and  its  buildings  comparatively 
mean.  Two  large  Pump-rooms  have  been  erected  about  the  springs. 
One  of  them  is  elegantly  finished  and  furnished,  with  a  statue  of  Hygeia 
mounted  upon  the  top  of  the  building.  I  drank  of  the  waters,  which 
are  tepid  and  have  strong  saline  qualities.  In  the  afternoon,  we  took 
the  coach  for  Birmingham,  tlirough  Tewksbury  and  W^orcester ;  and 
on  the  foUowmg  evening,  arrived  once  more  at  Liverpool.  Tiie  Soutli 
of  England  was  seen  to  nmch  less  advantage,  than  the  North  :  bu* 

VOL.  TT.  72 


.-,;o  LETTEKS  FROM  EUROPE. 

fiom  the  general  features  of  tlic  country,  I  should  think  it  intrinsically 
Inferior  in  variety  of  scenery  and  richness  of  landscape. 

After  a  tedious  delay  of  more  than  a  week,  by  adverse  winds  and 
the  neap  tides  of  the  port,  we  embarked  with  ten  other  agreeable 
passengers,  on  the  8th  of  April,  in  the  packet  ship  Pacific,  whose 
veteran  master  was  now  crossing  the  Atlantic  for  the  hundred  and 
thirty-ninth  time,  without  ever  having  met  with  a  serioas  disaster. 
As  the  green  hills  of  the  Emerald  Isle  were,  the  first,  so  also  were  they 
the  last  speck  of  earth  beheld  in  Europe.  On  the  evening  of  the  10th, 
the  heights  of  Dungarvan  faded  from  the  eye,  and  again  all  was  sky 
and  sea.  The  incidents  of  a  favourable  and  pleasant  voyage  would  not 
bear  repetition,  if  circumstances  permitted  me  to  enter  into  detail. 

During  three  days,  from  the  22d  to  the  24th  inclusive,  in  the  latitude 
of  43*'  and  between  the  49th  and  62d  degree  of  longitude,  we  were 
constantly  among  tremendous  icebergs  from  the  poles.  Upwards  of 
one  himdred  were  seen  from  the  deck ;  and  in  one  instance,  nine  were 
in  sight  at  the  same  moment,  the  nearest  of  which  was  within  pistol 
"hot  of  the  ship.  Two  or  three  men  were  stationed  in  the  tops,  and 
kept  on  the  watch  night  and  day.  The  weather  was  so  cold,  that  the 
thermometer  sunk  to  the  freezing  point  in  tlie  hatchway,  and  the 
shrouds  were  coated  and  stift'  with  ice.  Some  of  the  enormous 
masses  were  aground  upon  the  edge  of  the  Grand  Bank,  though  the 
water  was  several  hundred  feet  in  depth ;  while  others  were  rocked 
by  the  surge,  like  a  vessel  labouring  in  a  heavy  sea.  The  mate  took 
the  altitude  of  one  of  them,  which  was  something  like  a  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water.  Their  forms  were  the  most 
varied  and  fantastic  imaginable.  Some  resembled  rugged  islands,  and 
others  castles,  churches,  or  distant  towers,  rising  in  gloomy  grandeur, 
in  the  verge  of  the  horizon,  with  the  sea  dashing  in  foam  against  their 
bases.  We  saw  one,  the  castellated  top  of  which  bore  a  striking 
similitude  to  Westminster  Abbey;  and  against  the  bleak  sides  of 
another,  it  was  believed  for  a  time,  that  a  vessel  was  seen.  On  a 
nearer  approach,  it  proved  to  be  only  a  separate  peak  of  the  moun- 
tain. The  position  of  the  sun,  and  the  return  of  morning  and  evening, 
for  throe  days,  gave  every  variety  of  light  and  shade  to  this  grand  and 
terrific  spectacle.  Sometimes  the  columns  appeared  as  pure  and 
transparent  as  alabaster,  glittering  like  glaciers  in  the  sun ;  at  others, 
their  sides  were  thrown  into  deep  shadows,  by  their  own  stupendous 
crags.  Fortunately  the  sky  continued  clear,  till  we  escaped  from  the 
region  of  frost,  to  the  borders  of  the  Gulf  Stream  :  otherwise  the  ship 
would  havp  been  in  imminent  peril. 


LETTERS  FROM  EUROPE.        571 

On  the  6tli  of  May,  a  woodpecker  came  off,  and  liovcreil  iibout  the 
shrouds,  as  a  pilot,  or  at  least  as  a  welcome  messenger,  tliat  la  id  was 
near;  and  at  dawn  of  day,  on  the  following:  morning,  the  shores  <if 
Long-Island  and  the  summits  of  Navesink  wore  joyfully  dtsrried. 
All  the  passengers  were  upon  deck  in  a  moment,  without  being 
very  particular  in  the  adjustment  of  their  dresses.  Before  noon  we 
passed  the  Ligiithouse  ;  and  as  our  gallant  ship,  with  every  sail  hoisted 
to  a  favourable  breeze,  ran  through  tiie  N'arrovvs,  now  fresh  and  fra- 
grant with  the  bloom  of  Spring,  tiie  mingled  crowd  of  feelings,  which 
rushed  upon  the  heart,  may  be  imagined,  but  not  described. 


END  OF  VOLUME  II. 


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